Gunpla / Plamo General
***READ THE GUIDE***
***READ THE GUIDE***
For those new to gunpla/plamo or even just new to this thread; please read the guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model". If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!
>Why won't anyone answer my question?
Try being specific, especially about your materials and process. Post pictures whenever possible; even if the kit/part looks bad, you are more likely to get help posting pictures.
A guide to other types of plamo:
Kawaguchi Gunpla tips:
http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1 AND http://gundma.imgur.com/
Another gunpla guide:
January Restock: http://pastebin.com/cGZkTqai
Our next Group Build!
Basically what this means is that rather than the mobile suit being fresh out of a factory, it's quite the opposite. Whether it's trudging through dense jungles or dodging debris in asteroid belts, your mobile suit has seen some better days.
You've been out in the field for quite a long time now, nearly half a year of active duty in the front lines and your personal mobile suit's pretty banged up. What's worse is the fact that there isn't a maintenance bay within several thousand kilometers of your local area that's capable of making any major repairs. Your unit's engineering crew has resorted to patch work and jury-rigging to keep your machine operational. Stray fire might have crippled its legs and arms or otherwise dealt considerable damage to a mobile suit's systems meanwhile some units have simply lost bits of armor and panels to the elements and have been forced to patch weld metal sheets over the exposed inner workings.
In any case it's beaten to hell but somehow you and your team have somehow kept it chugging along and now command's ordered all units operating in your theatre to fall back to form a defensive line against the enemy offensive.
Deadline: March 7
Send submissions to: firstname.lastname@example.org
Image spamming aside, we should probably wait until the thread hits page 6-7 before starting a new one.
Also who's this Virmire guy who's been making the last few threads. All he does is post the OP and the group build copypasta
inb4 /toy/ image spammer. He wants to ruin this thread so we journey to his hug-box, the other gunpla general.
I've been making the generals for a while now and just wanted to make sure the shitposting threads don't get much traction and the real one is easily noticeable. Not gonna namefag while posting regularly though.
>he thinks this thread has at least one builder worthy of /toy/ who isn't already on /toy/
Don't flatter yourself, worm. None of you would be welcome.
Gfs first kit, she says she really loves gunpla
How the hell do I get good at nubs? I've built four and a half kits and I still feel like garbage at it. I shave cut most with nippers, then shave with hobby knife, and then attempt to sand with sand paper. But I can never seem to get it flat without risking eating away at the rest of the plastic
I really want to paint but I don't want to paint unless I can get rid of nubs decently enough
My gf who made the bearguy uses this nail file that has four different grades on it for nubs, I tried it myself with some paint smudges and it even works well on that point as well
Use sanding sticks or make your own by glueing sanding paper to a popsicle stick. It should give you better control on what surface you want sanded. Oh and play around with the angle at which you sand too.
I recommend a sanding stick, smaller area of effect and its on a more controlled flat surface, save the sandpaper for rounded parts
Don't bother with knives unless you're speed building it for a snapbuild. Proper method is to nip close enough to leave a small nub, file to remove as much of the nub as possible, then sand (high grit) flat, then polish. And then you paint it.
an exacto is like $5 tops, just make sure you get a type 17 blade, you can buy 1000 grit sandpaper at any store with an automotives section for around $3, and nail clippers make a half decent stand in for nippers since those tend to be a tad expensive
>he means r/gunpla
No I mean the /toy/ general. The guy who image spams this one, or the people who do it, are most likely from there and think if they ruin this one enough people from here will just go there.
So if I want to have all the ridiculous big shit in the UC (In terms of in-universe scaling, not PG and junk) what are the kits I should get? Right now my list is the HGUC, Dendrobium/GP03, Neo Zeong, and Psyco Gundam.
Here's the MG Gouf Custom finally finished.
My next project is the Mega Size 1/48 RX-78-2. I plan to paint several panels in the different grays like the statue. Have some 1/48 RX-78 decals coming in hopefully soon.
>tfw this just came in the mail but cant build it for the next three days because I got shit to do
Living is suffering
I just use Tamiya basic files and 800 and 1200 grit sandpapers. I don't know what grit the files are but they can remove a lot of plastic, so I slowly go over the nub until it's just about gun and then use sandpaper. I don't polish anymore but there are a variety of polishing papers and blocks with grits up to 12,000 that can give you a finer finish than 1200 grit sandpaper.
You are just as destructive to this thread as the image spammer/s. As much as I hate the spam, I hate you more and wish you would just leave. I don't wish you to kill yourself or get murdered or whatever else everyone else has said, I just want you to leave. You don't contribute anything positive to these threads and the fact that you plummet these threads quality every time you make a post, the same exact thing could be said about you; that you're from /toy/ and etc. etc.
If you're really not some attention starved loser with nothing better to do please prove it by leaving.
Schizophonic has it on his page with no foils, except the eyes.
>Google custom Justice gundam
>No good customs using a white/gold/black color scheme
Come on people of the world it'd be to easy
Has anyone here tried something like this? You can probably tell where I found this from thanks to the filename but it seems like an interesting trick to try if it does work as shown
I'm also rather fond of Merrygate, but I can never find a good picture of it without it's titty monster of a fan imagined pilot blocking half of the AC
It will sort of works, and the dried paint will stick on whatever you sand the piece with. But what's the point? Just wet a q-tip or a piece of cloth with the paint's thinner and wipe.
The box art of this thing implies that it's got a full psycoframe underneath.
That's a sanding sponge. They're basically sanding the surface to remove the spillover and only leave the paint in the groove. I am assuming that the white is bare plastic for that to work.
Ehh she's slowly getting into mecha, anime wise she generally only watches anything with panty shots and magical girls, but I showed her G gundam, she loved it. Getting her into building gunpla was even harder, but the bear guy has her hooked. Currently tried showing her I Big-O but she says she wants to watch build fighters next. I'm going the more series I show her the more she'll want to expand kit wise
I got done snap fitting this yesterday, I've got it sanded and ready for priming as soon as I can get a (relatively) warm day to show up in Pennsylvania.
>I've got it sanded and ready for priming
Are you baiting me? Cause you haven't cleaned and sanded those nubs that's for sure
Finished my RG Aile Strike Gundam the other dam nothin to fancy with this one just some panel lining
When I posted pics of the 1/100 resin giant axe a few days ago, a couple of people asked if they were too big.
Had someone measure the HG giant axe from the origin tristar zaku. It measures 175mm from tip to tip
175mm at 144 scale = 252mm at 100 scale
The resin one measures 255mm without the clear blade part fitted, So I'm calling that close enough.
Is this better?
Can someone recommend a compressor for http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-2020-2F-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B000BROVIO and what type of hose I would need?
I was looking at this for air compressor since a blog said it was good http://www.amazon.com/Senco-PC1010-1-Horsepower-1-Gallon-Compressor/dp/B0000AQK78
I've decided and already order the badger for my beginner brush since I'm going to purchase a cheaper for base coats later
slow progress with the MG Nu ver Ka
I decided to paint the inner frame with gunmetal, and add a few silver and gold touches, even if they remain covered by the armor once put together
also, fuck, the waterslide decal sheet is big
Rip Beargguy arm. So apparently, the ball joint peg piece in the forearm becomes really stiff and brittle over time?
I went to go twist it into place and it just snapped. Maybe I can bust out the cement and fix it later.
What are you working on tonight, gunpla general?
Working on improving my patience. I'm waiting for a Graze, and it'll be my first kit in a year. I'm extremely hype because i'm pretty sure this will be my first kit that actually looks decent.
I'll be working on the hy2m head for my 78CA 1.5
The polycap hands right? Early hguc used the same runner of polycaps as some late 90s 1/144 and a couple of those lines used the hands. They're just leftover parts and a reminder of darker times in the hobby.
Posted my blue frame D a few days ago. Finally got home to panel line, weather, and decal it. Not normally a fan of Astrays, but Damn this is lovely
Clean cuts but some of your decals appear crooked and why didn't you line it? would have been like 100 times better, and if you could afford the model I refuse to believe you couldn't spare $4 for a line marker.
I just finished this piece of shit, I've never had more of a nightmare project than this thing. I've assembled, disassembled, repainted and scratchproofed it about 3 times before I just gave up.
Please forgive the inhumane level of dust, I had made it over a year ago and haven't had time to clean it since.
That being said the reason I'm posting this image is just as an example, your lines will look a lot better if, as you're tracing them, you follow up with a swab or your finger before the paint dries.
Thanks, I actually wanted to have all the RGs, but this is as far as I got, I had money but the work got so busy I didn't have time to get them, let alone put them together.
Now I'm out of a job, plenty of time but no money lol.
speaking of sandpaper, I was curious which brand everyone prefers?
I've been running with 3M wet or dry series and they're pretty good, although I've yet to try them out with wet sanding. I also should really make some sticks out of them sometime.
Finishing my MG V2, just the gun and markings left, and I want to try and fix these other three dudes up a bit.
Gator waterproof sandpaper. They sell it in big sheets of various grits at auto part stores for relatively cheap.
not that anon, but this is the first MG I've made since the Zeta 2.0 came out and the they have come a long way
Got two of this boys on store clearance sale
Any suggestions for the colourscheme?
First model I ever made, also first time using an airbrush.
I remember scouring hobby stores to find a bedazzled ribbon with small enough hexagons so that I can cut a piece and put it in the visor for extra effect.
It would make so much sense for snapfag to be living in a rich senile old woman's house, occasionally raping her and spending her disability and social security checks on gunpla and cheetos, while spending every second of his waking life shitposting the gunpla/plamo thread on /m/ with shit like this. >>13729686
Anybody else picked up one of these?
Have built a few DM kits in the past and was less than impressed, but this thing blew my mind. Keep up the good work China, keep Bandai on their toes.
i don't see his statements as even remotely losing his shit, maybe learn to read or is your autism the type that makes is hard to interpret people's emotions/intent? ..keep trying to troll though, its really all you've got left anyway. pathetic fuck
>not nearly as much rage as you
>literally a no u
How pissed are you right now really?
>hurdurd dudrdur dur craft
Last I checked, them having nubs doesn't affect your craft, also I'm not the nubs fag, >>13729372
These are mine, but unlike you I don't lose my shit when someone has a nub.
I like how you called me out for projecting and then proceeded to talk about impotence and learning disability, you should really stop, for your own sake, because you clearly have issues.
hmm this stupid fuck really thinks he's accomplishing something by calling people mad.. the main premise of your statements is not correct, the comments you quoted didn't sound nearly as angry as your responses and more than one person has replied to you. so keep saying the same shit but know that it only makes sense in your developmentally challenged head.
Well I didn't have to trim a single piece of flash, but that may vary for each kit, some parts were a pretty tight fit, and since the plastic is a bit softer than Bandai's you have to be careful, I ended up getting a bad stress mark over the left wrist that i was able to cover with a decal. This also means that nubs are easier to clean but also easier to leave pits if you aren't careful
I built DM's Tallgeese 3 a while back and was less than impressed, ended up using the parts along with a second, Bandai Tallgeese to make a custom.
The Destiny though is in a class all of its own, completely blew my expectations away. I don't knew if the inner frame is based on an existing DM kit, like the Strike, I never built that. But its nothing to write home about. The surface detail though is superb, like almost RG level color seperation.
LOTS of runners. Like a shit ton. Like more than some PGs (Though not as big)
All in all it was a lot of fun and downright fabulous.,
Bruh, I responded to another anon about this, I hadn't taken any pictures after sanding, but since you're so ass-blasted about this, I've included this, post sanding and pre-priming to soothe your anal wreckage.
I am that anon, and it is amazing how far the engineering has come.
The inner frame part that connects the arms, head and core fighter together is one big part and a small bit for the back of the neck.
The rough equivalent of that, judging from the Origin guide is 11 pieces with one large chest piece and 10 smaller bits with far greater articulation.
I don't post there because of fags like you mohammed, your builds are not that hot btw
Lined and pretty fun to build (wings were very intricate), but I had an issue with the left leg. After constructing it I applied some paint to the skeleton to give it more metallic color, once it dried it made it incredible brittle and resulted in the joints crubling, its basically being held together by the outer shell
those should be narrow enough, just try to be more precise and don't over-sand. try to sand only where the nub is elevated, this is all after u get as much as u can off with your fingernail after cutting midway down the sprue
Didn't have all the supplies necessary when I made this (see: sandpaper) but I just wanted to snap fit it together since it was my first one. Gundam markers just came in so I finished all the panel lining and applied the decals. I'm horrible as fuck but I hope to improve from here.
Any suggestions on what to practice with? I guess I could get cheap kits like Hi-mocks or something but even if they're so cheap I'd feel really bad butchering them just to learn.
So why does only the misnamed filename guy get his posts deleted and not the guy posting other people's work?
This one's me. I wasn't mad at all, just saying that it eerily makes sense. Lmao at all the butthurt shitposters though.
For people who haven't seen them yet.
But there's no purpose at all to doing so. The majority of people who are in this thread will most likely be in the next thread, where you will post the same images again. We've all seen them dozens of times already
>Cant we just spam OC just the same?
Two wrongs doesnt make a right. But we should not give in to snapfag and shitposters childish intent. Its like talking to a wailing baby
If it's based off a resin kit like normal, the inner frame should be based off the MG Impulse.
It's a reprint of a much older kit. They didn't even really have pegs on the hand back then.
The real question is why Bandai decided to re-release the thing at all.
The answer is that they hadn't really thought of web exclusives yet.
Enamel, also just finished MG ver. ka shenlong! (Haven't put on the stickers yet) but the lining is done as well as sanding
Enamel makes the plastic brittle
You should gloss coat the inner frame first if youre planning to put on enamel
Curious thing though, i know alclads gloss black is enamel. But it didnt do a thing on my RG
So is it normal for shipping/grand total to be calculated after placing the order on Amiami?
How the hell am I supposed to know how much this is actually gonna cost me? I'd like to compare costs before actually ordering anything.
Yes I had the MG Zeta Plus in Amuro's Test Type colors. The thing barely held together in robot mode. Thats the downside of a kit trying to have a detailed exterior, internal frame, and still try to transform.
While I always preferred MGs over HGUCs, the Zetas are an exception. The parts-forming to wave rider mode makes the kits much more solid.
Granted I heard the MG Zeta 2.0 was much better than the original, but alas I never owned it.
>Yes I had the MG Zeta Plus in Amuro's Test Type colors. The thing barely held together in robot mode
What the hell? I've owned it too along with the C1.
The MG Zeta Plus is EXTREMELY stable and almost too stiff because of the screws that hold the thing together. How is it that you had the complete opposite experience ?
Bought a Tamiya weathering kit as I wanted to practice weathering and whatnot with Pic Related. Prior to weathering I'm sure i gotta fix up some other stuff here and coat it first though.
Considering getting one when I can. I have the Sword Strike backlogged.
Thanks. I'll definitely look out for that and actually try not to overdo it.
Just to make sure, the coat I need to use should be what, gloss or flat?