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For those of you just joining us, please read this guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"
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And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
NEW!! Watch Kawaguchi explain simple and useful Gunpla tips to you! : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44glv1cJQ1E&feature=share&list=PLJV1h9xQ7Hx-SoCOivVEHNDOl16VWLB3A&index=2 [Embed] [Embed]
Old thread: >>11084546
Hey /m/. I really like the Xeku Eins as a kit; you look at it and you can just tell what a bruiser of a machine it is. I was wondering, are there any good build weapon systems or similar products out there where I could find armaments similar to those in pic related? I find the machine gun that comes with the kit to be kind of awkward and limiting.
reposting from the last thread
How do you get over creative/mental blocks?
I haven't been able to work on any gunpla, painting and modding. gave up on the shitty custom I was building as a result.
How do I get over it?
Simple, by doing something else.
I'm a binger, I'll work on an MG all week and do that for a month or two at a time but then take a break and switch to something else. Devoting more free time to gaming, catching up on a backlog of movies, playing my bass, etc.
With any form of creative medium, it's good to work in strides. When you feel it, poor 110% in and as soon as the magic is gone, set your tools down and take a break to do something else for a bit. Let the creative juice recharge.
for me its I wanna work, but then when I get my paint set up, I just sit there staring, and then I try to paint and end up cleaning up after 5 minutes of workin.
im gonna try out all what people recommend to get over it, thanks for the input!
I'm almost ready to finally put the base colours on my modded LED Mirage. The main idea was to take the shit awful WAVE kit and bring it up to the standards set by the technical illustrations in the back of those Five Star Stories comics as far as mobility is concerned.
All that's left to do on the original kit is to sand some parts of the pauldrons and rescribe a few lines here and there.
After that I'm going to paint it in Sagiitta Weinberg's colours and complete the custom weapons the mod calls for.
Zeta (Plus) Seekers.
Now, two questions-where can I find Decepticon decals and should Zetafire be an Autobot or a Decepticon?
Gyan Gya Gyan Vulcan
A kitbashed Schuzrum Gallus
A kitbashed Zogok
not really a custom or kitbash but I plan on getting a Musha Gundam MK-II, modding some stuff and painting it Kachidoki Arms colors.
think it might be matte and glossy gold. taking the right hand vulcans off and attaching it to bottom of left arm. then replacing left hand with the heat rod entirely. going to scribe some more lines for RG-esque-ness and maybe plaplate some more details. All I got for now.
Side note. Need some help with detailing the right leg. It only shows the left leg so I'm not sure if those 1 and 2 also go on the right leg or if they're mirrored on each side of both legs (like 4 on each leg like it shows) Will post pic after
It's pretty vanilla, but I want a custom GM Sniper II team wearing mobile-suit sized flak jackets, in the same vein as the Reactive Armor Ingrams. I'm not sure what paintjob I want yet, but I definitely want them to have some sort of backstory
I'm revisiting my custom GM Sniper II.
Currently plan to add a holster, a bit of armor on the backpack weapon hinges, a reactive armor "shield", some armor schnieders, and equalize the front skirt lengths, as I felt it was a bit too bland/incomplete.
I'm too pleb for that unfortunately. I am one that lacks creativity, worse because I need creativity for my studies/day job of design. Because of that, Gunpla is the mindless activity to "off" my mind in comparison, opposite to>>11092708. However planned builds are the:
>HGUC Nu with ver.Ka aesthetics
>HGUC GP03 Stamen repainted (more of a Orchis purple colour because obvious reference)
>HGUC Acguy straight clean build with waterslides
I'm pretty fucking boring.
Just got to the Gundam Wiki and hit that random button until you get two suits. That's your kitbash.
Bonus points for combination that requirers improvisation - be it either because it lacks gunpla or two or because you rolled combination of Zeong and Ball. Twin Ball.
Mistress Sazabi with bigass bow/sword.
I don't know where to begin.
>Hey, I should try to transform that Valkyrie that I just finished
>Backpack breaks off
>Fingers shoot out, to never be found again
I dropped one of the little D-rings for the Zaku I sniper Yonem Kirks custom earlier.
Time to make my own custom, especially considering I need to paint the chest with an airbrush (Which I don't have).
How is the HGUC Ex-S ? I'm currently in love with big and bulky suits, and it's in stock at a local hobby store.
Looking at dalong, I see some parts are not in correct color that I can attempt to handbrush, can't transform, and it's very much a brick.
Anything else I should know ?
Shinning+Qan[T]+age 1 razor
the idea is to make a Super mode of Hibiki from s2 ep 13 of symphogear. I still sanding the putty on the gauntlet of Shinning gundam. I was lazy and gave the legs a thruster instead little wing thingy
Crossbone X-1 + a FLAT
Hmmm, well I've already built the x-1 so that's not too tricky.... but how do I mix it with that really old FLAT kit?
Oh no guys, I messed up.
So I was putting all the limbs and stuff onto onto my Kampfer Amazing and I realized that I put the piece that connects the foot to the leg in upside down. That means I'm gonna have to either turn the piece around while it's in the foot, or take the foot apart. I tried both, to no avail.
Any advice? :S
Wow guys, look what I found
I ordered 4 of my first gunpla on a whim, doing little to no research. I have a month before they get here to learn.
I can't tell if I'm feeling excitement or fear at this point.
Susanowo looks so much better without the silly helmet.
Go for Nightmare Mode and try to kitbash the NG Justice with the 1986 1/100 ZZ.
QanT/AGE-Titus. Still hung up on a color scheme that'd be reminiscent of the muay thai style. I'm thinking a version of player one Sagat from Street Fighter, with a scarf and a painted eye patch. Sadly I can't paint.
You. I really like you. Please post pics of your process~
A Ginn customed who's theme is modeled somewhat after the Wing Fenice (its backpack being modified & the wing binders set off to one side, being asymmetrical, etc). Right now I'm looking at using both Ginn High Maneuvers (the original and Type II from Destiny) along with parts from the Quanta Gundam (primarily the backsystem for holding the large sword & the main GN sword it uses in its right hand). I'll have to get one of the other Ginns for the leg rockets but that can wait. I might get something from one of the CGue kits instead, but I'm not sure yet.
Color scheme is gonna be the same as the Recon Ginn from the early episodes, black with bits of grey & yellow.
>mfw having to choose between astraea F or 00 seven sword
I can't choose
Super happy how the silver spray paint turned out...I really should start spray painting more in the future.
>Two sets needed to complete a weapon
Hey, just starting to get into this. Thinking of making the RX-79 Gundam Ground Type my first purchase since I loved 08th Team.
Is there a massive difference between the fine liner brand Gundam Markers and just your regular office fine liner?
Indeed it does.
Question. What kit do I have to buy to match Graham's Custom lefties rotating shield bit? I am sucker for symetry.
Can't he just make Justice use ZZ as surf board?
By our powers combine..
What free, custom parts?
Here's the torso of my mg RX-78-2 3.0 I got today. Sadly I couldn't wait to work on it. The torso and the head took me six hours to build. Don't get me wrong I love it even with my screw ups but holy shit I underestimated master grades lol. Imma work on the arms and such tomorrow then take the whole thing apart to add decals and spray a top coat on it. For my first master grade and with all my screw ups( damn back pack doesn't seem to fit as tight on one side and fucking nippers cut into parts of the armor) I can honestly say I want more! Also a yellow led fucking light . Sorry if the picture is on it's side on my ipod
I need to buy twenty kits to maximize my chances of getting that drill lance sword.
Apart from the fingers and point where the shield connects to the backpack, this is pretty solidly built.
Whelp, none of the build part campaign stuff interest me, I'm gonna work on m backlog instead.
>tfw 2 rg zeta's and 3 mg unicorns stand in your way
>tfw that is just a small portion
This happens EVERYTIME
I warned you about the 3.0 a couple of threads ago bro. Dangerous choice for first MG. Even the RG isn't as complex.
Just take it slow and don't let frustration get the better of you an you'll be fine.
Its results like this that truly show, just because its snap fit DOESN'T mean its a good first choice.
Especially since most gunpla molders come for the mecha, an actual model kit maker I assume laughs at the whole snap fitting process.
3.0 was my first gunpla built and it went fine. But I had modelling experience before.
Still, I don't think it's really hard. You just follow instructions, cut parts carefully and take your time.
Well, looks like one of the kits a friend I wanted has arrived in my private warehouse, time to take advantage of the shipping...
Got me MS funnel, hg gelgoog (going for an msv cannon because screw the exclusive) builders weapon 07 (Tell me, they come with markings on them...no way I can preserve them, otherwise it sucks they're pre-molded) and...thinking a robot damshii death scythe or RD leos, or something else...
should I get the hg g-saviour just to say I have it or skip it
Sooooo, my first order in years (HGUC Jegan and an Action Base 2) is waiting at the post office. I'm going off to buy some supplies, including a Pigma Micron marker and I wonder, should I panel line the Jegan with black or grey?
MS that you want to be made into a kit?
>the entire family will never be complete
Are you sure?
I looked it up, they differ to this one on the left...they do look nice though
Unless I'm mistaken they don't look like the one I'm used to seeing...
You do realize the gundam gerbera is getting a re1/100 right?
I do want a blossom though.
>Missing link is missing
Holy shit. Thanks, i didn't even know RE was a thing until now. It'll probably be close to $100, plenty of time to save up tho. Wonder how these will be when the first drops in September
They're actually probably going to be cheaper than your standard MG - the line's focus seems to be doing less common suits in 1/100 scale, but they won't have inner frames or anything, so probably not quite as robust and detailed as a MG.
That may change though.
See clearly the nightengale is based off the old b-club mold, but once they exhaust all of those we may have some with good outer detail...but may require paint apps.
Don't forget the gm sniper k9!
They said "no build gundam" series.
There is no "build gundam" series I know of, only Build Fighters and Gunpla Builders, both of which come up as eligible kits for the promotion.
Zabanya Astray, if I can figure out how to take the top set of arms/shield bit connectors and attach a blue frame's tactical arms to it. If the HG even *has* the top set of arms. It's a muse at this point.
I also still want to bash all three HG Unicorns (Unicorn, Phoenix, Banshee) into a suit that has parts of all three using the Phenex's blue pyschoframe.
Finally I completed the whole kit of the astraea, the pieces I dont use are in plastic bags on the kit box.
Looks like Gentei sent my kits to the wrong address based on the tracking number.
Be careful with black on white kits. It can look good but in my experience it's easy to mess up and overdo it. Personally I use grey on light colour and black on blues/greys/and deeper colours. Helps to make make things look too, uh, "Dalong".
I got tough hands, I have cut myself but movements that should of cut have only shredded the skin.
>Tiny 3rd degree burn
>Can't use whole arm due to pain
>4 years later
>Come home with hands and arms covered in 2nd degree cuts every night
>Never felt them
>People horrified by sight of my arms
>"Wut I didn't know I got burnt again lol"
I was reckless, still am, sadly my first kits show it too with gouge marks from knife work.
Need to work on that...
How do you guys cut plastic plates/sheets?
For that matter what plastic do you get?
The last time I got plastic I think it was evergreen. X-acto knives wouldn't scratch the somewhat thick sheets.
>How do you guys cut plastic plates/sheets?
Styrene should be cut with this thing.
Straight cuts then shave and sand to shape.
Like if I wanted a circle I'd cut an octagon and smooth it out.
Takes some effort but I don't know a better way of cutting thicker styrene.
It was already being shipped when I posted bout it a few threads ago. It didn't help that I was very tired last night either I think. Just wish the back pack would go on all the way. It's a fun build but I did over estamate my abilities. I just need to take it slow and concentrate more today
I have a dremel and it works with a couple drawbacks.
Mainly, it's a fucking mess. Plastic shavings flying everywhere. Secondly, it melts the plastic.
HSS cutter is better than a sanding drum but it still needs cleaning up by hand afterwards.
3D printing would give you even more cleanup again, the print striae are very visible even with thin layers.
You could use a plotter but it won't cut anything thicker than about half mil styrene.
>How exactly would you cut out more complex shapes?
Scalpel, rulers, pencil lines on the pla plate.
Alternatively you can get yourself one of those circle cutters and do it step by step, but you'll hardly ever need circles that size.
And 3D printing is a fucking mess of hot plastic, support structure nubs, steps and miscalibrations.
I still don't understand where the expense comes into 3D printing. It's 3 motors and a heating element, right? How the fuck does that cost hundreds of dollars, are there no chinks smart enough to make some knock-offs for less than 100 bucks?
The print head and parts that have the tolerances to not print like a downy with parkinsons.
Prices are dropping heavily though, and building your own does save you a fair amount.
Software mainly. The processing of 3D printing isn't done by the computer usually, it's often done by the printer itself. So it had to process that 3D model you give it and turn it into something it can work with on the fly.
Very precise parts.
And with technology especially, it's the cost of paying the engineers who design the devices.
It's the same reason why things like Apple products cost considerably more money than needed to manufacture them.
I think I'd rather just buy the kits.
I can't realistically imagine that consumer 3d printers will be precise and affordable enough within the next 10 years to be as good as injection molds.
I'd personally hate having to sand down the entire piece after each printing.
Plus plastic itself isn't exactly cheap either.
As good as injection molds, no. Probably not.
It'd be more along the lines of a resin kit in terms of work. You'd need to do a lot to make it look nice but when you do, damn is it nice.
Finally finished test-fitting the IMS Vatshu (sans a few of those tiny red dots on the chest and armpits). Some final impressions:
-Kit comes with two long swords and one short sword, but there's only one scabbard-like mount for a single sword on the shield (not pictured). Don't know why there isn't at least 2.
-The shield is hella heavy and the way it's pretty much connected via only the hand. The wrist connection is very weak and done only through a small polycap. Unless you tighten or glue the joint, the hand will pop out of the wrists 24/7 with the shield on.
-The "frame" that you are supposed to mount the large armor plates onto are essentially long polycap pieces. It makes no sense why Volks did this since the connection is rather loose and the stiffness of the polycaps prevents the skirts from even moving at all in the first place. Normal plastic pieces would have worked much better, though I think the newer 1/144 has them in plastic?
-Balance becomes much worse once all the armor is on, the kit becomes both front and back-heavy, which balances it out, but if you so much as lean it forward or backward a wee bit, it'll take a dive. Ankles aren't too strong either, but it's a simple fix.
Don't know when I'll get to painting and completely gluing all the loose bits together (as well as welding some leftover seam lines with putty), but as it is now, it's pretty decent-looking for an unpainted kit, but most definitely not Bandai-level. Just like something from Kotobukiya.
Overall, if you've built a Kotobukiya kit or non-Bandai model before, you'll have a decent idea of how to deal with many of the problems on this kit. As you build, you'll have to properly align and glue down some parts, fix up seam lines, even the rough surface with sanding, mask some parts while painting, etc. Still not nearly as difficult as the Wave plamo or various resins though. If you want a decently easy FSS kit, these are the best option, though not necessarily the best kits.
Can you imagine trying to clean up print layers on detail the size a 3d printer could afford you?
I don't see home 3d printing of kits / selling 3d printed kits becoming viable. 3d printing a master and cleaning it for resin casting perhaps.
So due to circumstances, I'm having to move to a much smaller place where I doubt I'll be able to tastefully display much of my collection. I'm also going to have to make the decision to throw out most of my boxes just because there isn't any room to store them.
Makes you wonder how Japs handle it.
Actually, I can.
I've got a 3D Printed Reliant from Star Trek my brother made a few years back, and it looks VERY good. Granted it's rough and not smooth, but that can be easily fixed.
Hell the kits they use for display/announcement most of the time are 3D Printed and they're similar quality to that of my brother's ship.
Granted, the ship was printed on a $2k 3D printer that took up a 5x5 square and was about 7ft tall. However, it's also severely out dated by years.
Flatten the boxes. Knife the vertical lines and you can retain the box net and stack them one on top of another. Throw out the bottom print less boxes, of course. Find some folder/porfolio, store them with your instruction booklets if you're keeping them too.
Videos lack the detail of the human eye.
Drag a bit of 180 grit sand paper across a smooth piece of your kit and try and paint over it.
You'll still see it.
My uni has an expensive 3d printer but it's still not smooth.
How small is the detail on that?
How do you intend to smooth out pipes a quarter of a millimetre across stuck next to eachother?
I was thinking of doing this; plus saving the boxes that I'm using to transport the models in.
Also holy fuck, my backlog is so big. I've got to lay off the plastic crack for a while until I've made a sizeable dent in this.
Don't have one, but I've used a 3D laser scanner and a printer for work. The scanner portion is fine enough, if a little finicky to use on light colored or reflective surfaces.
The printing aspect of the process is still behind, with most commercial models producing very crude replicas. More advanced models, however, can produce a much smoother surface at greatly increased cost in terms of materials, time, and power.
In other words, the technology just isn't practical for gunpla yet.
The detail on it isn't that small.
As far as the pipes, you'd have to either make them larger and smooth them down, or you'd have to find a different method.
Like I said, I see it being on the quality of a resin kit at best. But who knows, time will tell.
Plus I see it being more like >>11096444 suggested with armor and weapons rather than whole kits.
I still don't think it would be viable even for extra parts.
Unless you're making literally 1 of them why would you spend hours printing part after part instead of printing one then recasting it in batch moulds?
>Videos lack the detail of the human eye.
>Drag a bit of 180 grit sand paper across a smooth piece of your kit and try and paint over it.
>You'll still see it.
>My uni has an expensive 3d printer but it's still not smooth.
I don't even see your point. 180 is coarse grit. It's not used for smoothing anything. If I wanted to smooth or polish something over I'd use a finer grit.
Because it doesn't take HOURS with consumer printers? It takes like, an two hours usually. Esepecially if you're printing something for 1/144 scale.
I mean even if you do, let it go over night. Most people don't need like 50 of one part or if they do they can do exactly like you suggested.
Imagine this is 3d printed, it's about 5mm across. How are you going to clean that?
I know it's a mini, but it's an example of the detail 3d printing could give us.
Why use 3d printing at all if you're printing huge chunks of flat nothing?
How many people will buy 3d printers to print 1 off of guns instead of buying from someone who casts loads and sells single units for a couple quid each?
Thinking of making an rg zaku a custom, for ease of use black tri stars or johnny ridden.
I was suggested previously to use the ms blade builders parts for johnny ridden's zaku 2's commander fin on an rg char's zaku, but from pictures I've seen they don't look the same as the one included as the grunt zaku.
If it weren't for the backpack I'd of gone for that.
The other option is black tri stars, problem is being a spray painter how the hell do I match those colors, the main isn't just black?
I'd of done a Shin matsunaga rg zaku, but same problem as Ridden's zaku, no proper commander fin...
Anyone got better ideas before I place an order?
Why would you 3D print that?
That'd be dumb.
>Why use 3d printing at all if you're printing huge chunks of flat nothing?
Because you can print things like shields, armor, and specific shapes easily. Then detail them. If I can have the precision of something being uniformly shaped by a computer, I'll easily take it over having to shape it by hand.
(Please disregard my lack of a decent camera at the moment)
>Why use 3d printing at all if you're printing huge chunks of flat nothing?
Because it's a lot easier and probably lighter just to print it, as opposed to stacking sheets or bulking with epoxy and then carving it into the proper shape and curvature. Not to mention, you can easily reproduce more parts since you'd have the 3D model saved for reuse and you can also flip them (again because 3D models)
All of Graham's Mobile Suits from 00 are supposed to be left handed IIRC.
huh, never really thought about the whole left vs right when piloting
hiq part + can't tell if it's lit but led as well?
building the stand that comes with the turn x and jesus christ bandai didn't care about nub size. these are the largest nubs i've ever dealt with and the plastic is so hard it hurts
hd plate + sensor dome in what colour you want. as for size i have no fucking clue. at all. i'd just maybe measure the actual bit that stands out for the sticker and go with that?
samuel decal makes them.
Easy way-Find some patterns etc you like, size to fit onto a hg or whatever then send to someone who can make them, like samuel decal.
Hard method-Same again but this time you need an ink jet printer (there is another type that can do this but I forgot) and water slide paper+decal bonder
Once printed you gotta spray the bonder which is just as toxic as spray can paints so be careful.
Also there are 2 types of paper, white and clear, clear has color bleed issues but works best for certain colors, white makes things more solid and prevents color bleed...problem is you need to cut precisely.
I thought about doing this all myself but then I found samuel decal.
I'll give it a shot, cheers.
LASER printer thats the one
Last time I checked without spending a bit "extra" and get one that isn't consumer level, the printer won't be printing white. CMYK, and all that. Which is relatively important as a lot of decals tend to be white.
1) recreating parts would be more work on your part if you already have a 3d model that's ready to print
2) No, you really couldn't mirror anything that like that. Anything that's asymmetrical can't be mirrored, you would have to create it completely from scratch. And something that is symmetrical, well you wouldn't mirror that, you'd just be reproducing it.
Not being cheeky here, but what are you going to do with white decal paper? Scratch it with a knife until you get clear backing and create the graphic? Or am I (possibly) missing a function that consumers printers are capable off? I feel like we had this discussion a while back regarding Oroeri wanting to print his own.
Regardless, printing one's own waterslides is definitely a thing. Just need the right paper, laser printer, then the right spray. However it is just the printing of "white" that I am concerned about. Any other colour made up of CMYK would be fine.
Laser printers more or less melt plastic particles into the paper while inkjets usually are water soluble.
So I really would not try them on something that has to go into water and then be melted by aggressive chemicals.
Again, I am ready to be educated. But the two examples he used there does not contain white graphics. Pic related is what I am talking about, and why I deem it hard for a consumer-level printer to achieve.
Clarifying again: I am not talking about the colour of the backing paper; I am talking about printing white ink on a medium. In my previous post I said printing your own is definitely possible, as long as the graphic is within the CMYK spec, show even in your video (yellow, and black)
inb4 I'm being retarded and derping. It does happen.
>Since white can never come from the printer I had to use White Decal Paper for the white to appear. At the same time however I had to 'mask' the rest around the white of the decals with a color that was equal to the 'middle blue' of the model. You'll see later that whatever the color , you can match it with the software so never mind that I have used a non-standard mixture to achieve this middle US navy middle blue.
I don't get what you're trying to show me. It still isn't white on clear as done by Bandai/third-party decal printers, like in my last pic related.
I feel like we're on a bit of miscommunication here.
You know what, I'm out. I'm probably derping, and not being helpful either. I am not against anything, and printing decal is certainly possible. I was just pointing some things out.
please be gentle /m/ its my first time. I can't pose worth shit
does anyone have any reference pics for what each coat should look like when I use spray cans?
Like, pictures after applying the first layer or primer? I was told to do multiple coats, but I don't know if it's supposed to look splotchy and uneven when I first coat it or if I'm supposed to completely coat it all in one go?
Like, I sprayed a chest piece but I just kept spraying it until it was all grey with the primer. Is that a good or bad thing? I read the guide but wasn't sure.
>Darkest colour > lightest colour
sorry I misunderstood
I just had a look and Laser printers can print white
but the printers cost more than £2,000 and the cartridges cost about £500
so for the odd gunpla its not worth it unless you set up a business selling custom decals for about £5 pounds a sheet
This is so the edges have a worn look. You don't have to do it. Often the primer is enough for the base color. Light/white primer for light tone, grey for neutral, and dark grey for dark tone
>edges have a worn look
If you mean preshading, you can't do it with spray cans (not at these scales anyway) and the dude was asking specifically about spray cans.
Otherwise it's always dark over light.
Korean Army fag here
Went to gundam base again and picked up a pinvise, gundam markers and the Z'gok E from 0080.
I was also checking out the ReZel from unicorn and the Kampfer amazing and was thinking it would be cool and take the ReZels back mounted beam cannons and put it on the Kampfer amazing, only problem is I already have a Kampfer Amazing back at home as well as an old MG Kampfer and I don't feel like buying another Kampfer. So I was thinking I might just get the ReZel. I'm not normally one for Feddie suits but Unicorn did feddie suits really well. But the HG goes for 33,000 Won, didn't even bother to check the MG, though I don't really want a MG version of it, I don't like it that much. Should I just get the HG Rezel? Or should I get Noblesse Oblige from armored core or start getting some zoids? Might start with Liger Zero Panzer, then Schneider, gun sniper lena custom or mirage/shadow fox
Should I buy H Rezel, Noblesse Oblige or zoids?
Also, they added a Beaguy III and Strike Build gndam to the store
>but the printers cost more than £2,000 and the cartridges cost about £500
That's what I meant at first dear anon, when I mentioned "consumer level". It's "physically" possible, but definitely not viable for the everyday builder. The same goes for RGB-based printers: They exist, but costs an arm and leg with the cost outweighing the benefits.
So I have a bunch of these lying around.
Are they any good for custom building?
So what are some crazy ideas you've had /m/
I put this together a long time ago cause I wanted to modify my Kampfer and so I threw everything I thought about adding on to here, but never got around to it.
I was thinking though the chainsaw or big ass cannon from AC4A and ACV might go on my Virtue and the VoB from AC4A could fit on my kampfer if I pin it
I do like White Glint, but I got this thing about having the same models as people I know and my friend has White Glint with the VoB. So I was thinking Noblesse Oblige would be good, besides, that was the first AC in the series I was like "Damn that things really awesome" then I saw White Glint. More then anything though I want a MerryGate AC
It would be quite a shame. Say whatever you will about the pilot, but the AGE-FX was a very cool-looking MS design, as I've come to expect of Ebikawa. I would really like to have a Master Grade of it (or a Robot Damashii, but that's even less likely at this point).
He cannot join them soon enough, and yet I cannot work fast enough.
Yes. I've been so lazy today I've only pencilled the shoulders where I would scribe and left it. So now it lives as a partially scribed and lined Nu Zeong.
Anyone else here with slow mod progress?
Probably GM, Gouf, or Ground Gundam since those were on the same banner as the Z'Gok.
Also given that the Z'Gok JUST came out and the Exia wasn't long ago, I'd say it'll be a little while.
Should I bother painting a whole RG if I like the standard colors? They've got enough detail by default to look great with just few painted details, decals, panel lines and a matte finish, right?
not really. though painting instead of applying decals can be better in the long run. for example the red highlights on the kneecaps of GP01/Fb tend to peel so you might wanna paint there but the decals look great with the metallic sheen.
missile pods should be easy to make, the panzer faust the big one I mean you could use the rpg from the kotobukiya kit or even Zogok for that. Not sure about the beam rifle but the grenade launcher is in a kit.
Have any of you guys ever done a group build? Two of my plebby friends and I did so today and here's some of the results. Building gunpla while watching Kelly's Heroes was pretty fun
Ok /m/ hope you can help me out been curious as most of the weapons belong to something from the campaign and I can pin point most of them. But what are the Beam rifle with gas launcher, sword, beam gun with gm sniper customs rifle and drill lance from?
>Drill Lance DORILLY BREAAAAAAKAAAAAAH
But in all seriousness, its prolly the lances that the original crossbone vanguard used to rape the feddies. They were some neat rocket propelled, beam shooting melee weapons
>g3 gas launcher
ha ha time for gunpla warcrimes
>GG Launcher is from Shiro's 08th MS Team PTSD sequence
>twin beam rifle is from Full Armor Gundam
>Heat Tomahawk is the Dwadge's (MSV/Unicorn episode 4)
>R4 Beam rifle is GM Sniper Custom's from MSV; beam spray gun might be the same
>petite MS is the one Banana used to rescue Audrey
Sooner people get grammar right for jokes the quicker I can laugh m8
On a related note, efreet when?
Loving how chunky this looks. Anyone look at WonFes yet?
Question, I got an mg phenex...I'm not taking the coating off, keep in mind.
But I wish to use the decals, they might be able to hold, but it needs a topcoat to help keep them on.
I lack an airbrush so I'll have to resort to hand painting a topcoat for white I have a water based one on hand, tell me anything else I should consider?
Reason why I'm not painting is spray cans will never get me a proper phenex unless someone wants to help me find the best mix
Went to gunpla expo today in I'Park mall in korea
Jesus christ man. Uploading photos to facebook and then I'll post some pics here if anyone wants to see.
Even got a glimpse of GBF season 2. No video just the mobile suits and characters
I've read the guide many times, I've built a total of 34 HG Kits and 3 MG Kits. I bought a RG Zeta and its my first Real Grade kit. I'm terrified of messing it up, any tips before I start building it?
If you have hamhands, return your RG Bane of Hamhands McFallsapart and pick up the Gundam Mk II RG instead.
Otherwise, it's just snap fit. RG isn't any harder than a HG, it just has more pieces.
It can be somewhat flimsy as well.
People say that, but there are issues that arrive from different grades and models, other than specific kits durabilities...
>Small parts count
>Nothing to worry about
>Incorrectly fitted parts may impair movement
>Actually snapping parts in may break parts instead of holding them together
>More parts than hg
>tiny as fuck and easily lost
>easier to break
>plus issues of mg's
This is just my 2 cents, many hg's and mg's with only 3 rg's built, these are the issues I've encountered.
If anything a PG may be safer provided with the older ones you can handle those damn screws, it might be an mg but my master gundam will NEVER do the poses he's supposed to do all because the screws didn't do in right and attempts to fix have made him fragile.
>Want to post all the pictures from gundam expo
>Would be easier to post a link to my facebook
>Linking 4chan to my facebook
Is there anyway I can upload like 100+ pictures and just link you guys there?
Easily that is
Could upload to photobucket imgur or something, or just keep them all in an album on fb and make it public while having the rest private...
Or make a fancy fb page and upload stuff there.
You got many options...alternatively just post the standouts
I'm gonna try imgur first
And I apologize for any poor photos, I just had my phone and it was really crowded, so I tried to take a picture and move on
Ok, uploading now, but with hotspot phone wifi this may take a while
>Been a few minutes
>First image hasn't uploaded
I'll just post some of the better not blurry images then
I was rather fond of this one. Uses a PG Zaku II so it's rather large
Love seeing any kind of Kampfer
It's muh fave mobile suit
Store on the 7th floor was packed full too. The line stretched liked a good 30 feet near the back
How many new gundam shows are coming out? GBF season 2 and the 2 on the right in this image right, one of which has the Eureka seven artist
three shows. Unicorn is done, Reconquista and BF should be airing some time this fall and The Origin has some weird theatrical-release sometime in the undetermined future.
This is from the same series as the new G gundam with eureka seven art
Left image was for gundam unicorn, middle is origin, left is g reconguista, plus gbf season 2.
Its a good time for gundam.
I say kids but some girls would like for the cute side...not all though.
I'm not risking a banshee screaming their opinions at me.
I have mixed feelings for Reconguista, I like the art but I'm iffy on the gundam and this is the first I've heard of Origin
The designs don't catch me at all, something about previous UC designs caught, the fact this show is in the same universe as UC is an oddity for me.
Maybe a good plot will save the show but model kit wise nothing works for me, yet
I know how you feel, I want to like it, but as of right now, I'm not expecting it to be anything special. I hope I am pleasantly surprised
Last one for me, the others are rather blurry or not that good looking after a 2nd look. I was in a hurry today since I was learning the subway system. I'mma go again tomorrow and actually buy something tomorrow. I think I might go ham and buy more then I reasonably should
2 hours in the car to get these two guys
I think I'm in love with the Turn A
So I was thinking about getting the HG ReZel C (The white and orange one with 2 beam cannons on it's back) cause it is a pretty nice looking kit, but I was also thinking I might be able to take one of it's beam cannons and add it to the kampfer amazing, but I'm not sure about size difference. Also the ReZel is 33,000 won, so I'm looking at roughly $33 for a HG kit. So I thought I might wait on that one