So I still need my line conditioner but aside from that I am finally ready to start reloading. I plan on starting out with .308 then moving to other rifle cartridges, specifically .338 lm.
Does anyone have any advice or loads to share?
Also reloading general.
Oh man thats a great idea, I personally would have never guessed that I need to actually set my reloading space up instead of having pieces of it strewn about.
What other nuggets of wisdom do you have?
Truly, another excellent post by someone who obviously knows what they are talking about.
I guess it shouldnt surprise me that no one in day/k/are would even know about reloading much less owning a rifle that is worth more than 300 dollars.
Get Vihtavouri powder and huff it/spread it around you house like potpourri. It smells so damn good. Any Viht N100 series will do.
How cheap could I reload 12 gauge trap loads? Could I get it below 15 cpr?
Would 20 gauge be cheaper? I wouldn't mind 3/4 oz loads.
Let's also assume I have access to free hulls.
Im just worried that all of my effort will just be worth 2 cents saved per shelll....
It could be pretty cheap depending on how much money you want to spend on wads. I know people that go to ranges and pick up the more expensive wads to reuse. They can get it to 15-25c a shell that way.
It's hard to describe. It's like a cross between flowers and chemicals, but the chemicals here smell really wholesome and soothing.
I guess I just love it so much because it, along with dog, was the smell of the gun room I grew up in. So I nostalgia hard about it, in the same way my old reloading data manuals still smell like that sadly long gone room. But even if I'm biased it must still smell pretty good, since I once got my mother to take a sniff from the tub and she agreed it was nice.
Holy shit OP, you have pretty much the same setup I have except Forester dies rather than Redding. Its nice to see something other than the Leeshit you always see fags post here. Just a FYI but that Wilson trimmer claims to be made out of stainless steel, but it'll rust quicker than anything. Make sure you keep that bitch covered in oil. Sinclair International also makes a nice stand for it. Make sure you get a copy of QuickLOAD, if you dont wana spend $180, there is a copy on ThePirateBay
You can go decently cheap, but without dropping to 7/8oz loads probably not 15cpr. And most people don't like 7/8oz 12ga despite them running like a raped ape (1450fps+).
Claybuster wads, scavenged hulls, Alliant UltraLite or E3 or Red Dot will do light loads. I use Fiocchi 616's but there's more load data published for Cheddite primers. If you feel you wanna stick with Rem or Win primers that's gonna add a full cent to every shell.
Well, lets see
Scavenge either AA's or Remington Gunclubs. So free.
Gonna use Alliant Extra-Lite because it's the lowest charge weight I know for 1oz loads. So 3.4c per @ 15gr.
Cheddite @ 2.4c per
Claybuster 1100 (1oz AA replacement)
This is the big fuck-you to shotshell reloaders, with lots of places upwards of $50 a bag. I can get it locally for $35/bag after tax, but that's still 8.8c/oz. Since this is a 1oz load we're making, gonna take an average of $44 a bag, so 11c/shell
Most likely 18.6c/per for a 1oz trap load at about 1300fps. Biggest cost is shot at over 50% of the cost of the shell, and it fluctuates wildly by location. For the same load you're looking at anywhere from 16c/rd to over 20c/rd depending on shot cost.
Dropping to a 7/8oz load (in either 12 or 20ga) really only changes the cost of the shot per shell since primer and wad are constants and the price difference between 15gr of Extra-Lite and 16.5gr of Extra-Lite is less than half a cent.
So ignoring trap loads for a second, if I could get lead for free, and if I made my own slugs with a mold, I could make slug loads for like 10 cents per? That seems pretty good.
Then I'm not spending 10 cents per pidgeon as well, heh. Blasting soda bottles is still pretty fun.
I actually have a stand for the case trimmer, it came with it. And I have the tumbler and the omega as well.
All I have to do is set everything up at this point.
Not strictly teloading--
Are these safe to fire? My cleaner and oil both spilled in my safe. Most of my ammo has got this green corrosion on it.
It scrapes off with a fingernail and leaves a brighter spot underneath.
Do I need toss all this?
Will it cause a case head separation? Probably not. Would I shoot it? Probably not, because ammo isnt that expensive. How many rounds are like that?
The copper has been partially leeched out and that area of the case is now more zinc than it should be.
>And I have the tumbler
Also be aware that the inside of the drum isnt painted, and it'll rust. So it doesn't hurt to remove the liner while you let it dry out. Or just spray the inside with some spray paint.
Your local range will probably has a dud bucket, call them up and ask. If you know anyone who reloads, they should have one. Otherwise you can get a hammer on amazon for like $10. If you dont mind being slightly dangerous, two pairs of pliers; just be sure not to squeeze near the case head.
don't keep your cleaners in the safe. They should be stored in an area dedicated to cleaning supplies and chemicals
Copper tends to oxidize and the oxidation protects the copper below. If you can buff the light areas away with some steel wool to bring back the brass color, the ammo is probably fine to shoot. If you cannot buff the leached areas away, it may be deep enough to cause problems
>now more zinc than it should be.
yea, and when you use copper solvent inside your barrel, it makes it more 4140 steel. This causes a problem how, exactly?
The whole case is supported by the chamber wall, so who cares if a few microns of case turned color and is .1 micrograms more zinc than brass.
Just throw your ammo away if your that much of a bitch. Stop blogging about it on /k/
>yea, and when you use copper solvent inside your barrel, it makes it more 4140 steel.
this is an absolutely retarded statement
>The whole case is supported by the chamber wall, so who cares if a few microns of case turned color and is .1 micrograms more zinc than brass.
The case acts as a gasket, and zinc isnt nearly as strong as brass. Pic related is from STANAG 2310 (7.62 NATO), surprisingly it specifies a steel case rather than brass, but ignoring that, it has very specific hardness requirements for the various sections of the case. Hardness correlates with strength, so as you can see, the strength is very much relevant.
And if you still dont believe me, go take some 40 SW brass, load it to nuclear 10mm levels and tell me how that works out for you.
>How necessary is it to have a tumbler, versus just washing the brass with soap?
I used a mixture of soap and phosphoric acid (Iosso made a kit), it technically worked, although it didnt do shit for the build up in the primer pockets and the brass was still dull.
And tumblers aren't created equally, rotary + stainless steel media is far better than a vibratory and corn cob/walnut shells. Stainless steel media will make it look brand fucking new.
>this is an absolutely retarded statement
Im glad you agree; it was sarcasm to your equally retarded statement.
>go take some 40 SW brass, load it to nuclear 10mm levels and tell me how that works out for you.
it will work just fine as long as the chamber and barrel are thick enough.
just go buy some more bullets and deactivate the ones you have by cooking them on the stove for 25 minutes on medium high heat prior to throwing them in the trash.
I clean my brass in an ultrasonic cleaner. Placing them into the center individually usually cleans the primer pocket without effort and then I drop them into the side of the cleaner for the rest of the cleaning cycle. Then all the brass runs for a second cycle to ensure the case walls get clean. I toss them into a tumbler with Zilla Lizard Litter (crushed walnut shells) and a little NuFinish to polish and dry them. They come out pretty good. Maybe not as great as using stainless steel media, but I don't want to deal with separating that shit from wet cases.
>but I don't want to deal with separating that shit from wet cases.
Its pretty easy with a magnet. A few pins will get stuck inside the flash hole for a few cases, but they're easy to get out and as I said its only a few cases which that happens to.
Never tried it.
stay retarded anon
nice setup... here's what mine looked like when i got started... I'd have went a different route on a few things knowing what I know now... but gotta start somewhere. :)
>but no chronograph as of yet as they are a tad expensive.
Considering what you spent on everything else, look in either a LabRadar or a MagnetoSpeed.
I'm assuming he got it from ballances.com as I did. And with a calibration weight it was just under $1200
>Why are you spending 1200 on a scale?
Not OP, but to get single kernel accuracy.
>inb4 a kernel weighs more than 0.0002 grams
Due to environmental conditions you'll never likely get the advertised accuracy from a scale in your home
>He doesn't have a chrony because of cost.Suggest an cheap alternative and anon gets a twist in his panties.
All ShootingChronys run the same software. It checks the hardware config at boot to see what options to use. Adding the parts unlocks the advanced features at a fraction of the price.
MEC. Many different models to choose from.
For progressive a used P-W 800 with the second toolhead would be good.
For just playing with loads a set of RCBS dies and a single stage press works well.
This is a great load for a 308 rifle with a 1:10 rifling. I shoot around a 1/2 MOA with one of my bolt guns. I've got the OAL about .002 off the rifling. I believe this is loaded above recommended published data so work the load up if you use it.
I shot this group today and I didn't take my time doing it.
Stand by for the same guy who has been shitting in the thread about scales to come in and talk about drug dealer scales and lab grade scales, despite accuracy of that level being completely unnecessary for reloading.
Although I do collect older balance scales because I like them. My Ohaus Dial-O-Grain is awesome.
>Stand by for the same guy who has been shitting in the thread about scales to come in and talk about drug dealer scales and lab grade scales
That is me, the guy that anon has been replying to, read the fucking thread, I congratulated OP on his fine purchase here >>28911026. But keep on justifing your dual use drug dealer reloading scale.
>despite accuracy of that level being completely unnecessary for reloading.
>Check out the bulletins at Accurate Shooter.
The Entris64 is the replacement for the GD-503
Because I will be shooting match ammo and this time next year .338 as well. Given that I live in AZ I have a lot of space to shoot far where that sort of ocd with measurement actually matters.
Already have one.
Yeah no denying I need one but right now I'm fine borrowing a friends.
that autist is already here and he's already trying to justify super accuracy and kernals and grains and all that bullshit
Just shows OP should have done more research and not gotten suckered into the super scales. They are pretty nice but entirely unneeded for reloading.
So far the bench rest guys have shown measuring past 1/20th of a grain has not been shown to have any effect on accuracy.
Anyways anon i'm probably gona go to sleep, i'll continue with the shit posts tomorrow.