Let's talk glass /k/, and while, we're at it, iron sights.
>do you like 3 dot, ball in bucket, 1 dot, or no paint iron systems more?
>variable vs fixed scopes
>how important is illumination in a scope, really
My big question is micro vs full sized aimpoint and aimpoint style red dots. In my location, red dots or low power scopes are king.
I've used aimpoint comp m4 in the guard, and I'm using a micro t-1 I borrowed from a friend right now. Eventually, I'm going to have to return this red dot. But when I do that, I'm not sure if I'll go pick up another t-1, or get a full sized aimpoint pro.
Now, the last time I did real shooting with a comp m4 was OSUT. I've had acog equipped m4s by chance everytime Ive shot with them.
Besides weight, what do I really lose with full sized red dots? I had no trouble nailing the 300 yard target in OSUT even though I has never shot a lot of ar15 and never with red dots before, but with the t-1, the dot seems fuzzy, and it seems to change depending on the time of day almost.
Finally, if I did decide to go full sized red dot, a new aimpoint pro, or a eBay comp m4?
A 9 ounce 2-6 power scope sounds awesome.
What about burris fixed sights? How to they stack up against the vortex and PA offerings?
I want to put some glass on my 18" AR that can work for coyotes ~200yd and also be decent at close range, but it doesn't have to necessarily be CQC oriented since the gun is too long anyway.
Is it retarded that I want an aimpoint and a lucid 2-5x mag?
I have a Vortex StrikeFire II on my 16" AR. It works fine for the price but I think I want to stick a SPARC II on there and then move the StrikeFire II on to an AK build.
Besides weight, you're not losing anything with, say, an aimpoint PRO.
Vortex Viper PST 2.5-10x44, Trijicon RMR.
>bought a pa micro a few months back for my ak74
>don't even think I have my ak zeroed properly
>have never shot with my optic
tbqh I don't have a single fuck as to what I'm doing
I had one and the glass was quite good for the price, the only issue I could see with the Burris 3X was its very short eye relief, somewhere in the 1.5" if that according to my own tests.
Next time I'll go Vortex if only for the warranty, I have some binocs from them that took a bad spill, they fixed 'em right up and had them back to me in 3 weeks on the dot. That turnaround is even shorter for gun optics. Good product, great service.
T-1's have a weird oblong dot, the T-2 was supposed to fix that, although I don't have personal experience with one. I have the PRO and love it. I just changed the battery for the first time after 3 years and that's just because I figured it was time. It was still bright.
Im not super poor, but im on the low end. ~$35K last year, haven gotten my w2 yet~ i bought an sks for when the black helicopters land, but i cant find a sight tool to adjust for windage. Not one that works anyway. Anyone with a link to one that works, id appreciate it. Im considering a tapco stock so i can mount an aimpro, but i have some questions.
>which model would /k/ recomend for 200-300 meters
>Would i have problems mounting it on a tapco picatini?
>Would it be considered gay if i only replaced the wood on the gas tube? I like the wood stock its sturdy.
>how sturdy is tapco? Initial recation is that its cheap, very cheap.
>any alternative? Other than mounting a rail on the wood, i dont think the screws would be anchored enough.
I dont want an ar unless i can have an ar10. I dont want an ar10 unless i can build it. I wont build one because of shit industry standards. Ive got plenty money saved, and aimpoint isnt going anywhere. I could drop $500 on an optic, i just though aimpoint would be best.
1. get a laser boresighter, preferably the one that goes into the barrel of your gun as opposed to the one that goes into the chamber and is shaped like a cartridge (I got the latter and now realize ill have to get a different one for any other guns I want to use it on. Luckily though my only other is a .22 rifle for now and its already sighted in.
2. you'll have to look up some zeroing information for the AK , in my case with an AR the point of impact is the same at like 15 meters as it is at 200. ( I may have those numbers wrong but the pint was it could be zerod at a close range and be accurate at distance as well)
3. set up a target at your desired zero point and insert/turn on your laser. now all you need to do is adjust your red dot so it lines up with the laser coming out of the barrel of your gun.
From there you can take it to a range and test out how accurate the zero actually is and make some smaller adjustments as necessary. I still havent done this part but just the method I described above got me a fairly accurate zero.
Also I did the above method with Iron sights but I dont think there is any big difference in zeroing Irons vs a red dot. This is how im going to zero once I do finally get an optic for my AR. ( or any other rifle)
Been looking for an optic for a tavor, i was thinking about eotech til i learned of their many reliability problems. Im thinking about a meprolight rds. Seems pretty solid. Thoughts? I think its a 2 moa dot
Also you might want to check out Travis Haleys Adaptive Kalash video from panteo. It goes over, among other things a proper zero for the AK platform and I think breaks down the different types of zeros you might want to use. I searched for that section on youtube but nothing came up right away but I think the whole video can be pirated(well I know it can but I downloaded it some years ago now)
>tfw red dots don't look perfect like in muh vidya
is it really that bad?
I have astigmatism but ive never shot a red dot. Ive heard they dont work so well for us though.
are they just unusable? have you found anything that does work?
With my glasses off they are a giant blob. With them on mine still has a bit of a tail. Through a camera and others eyes it's fine. My prescription can still be better, especially for my right eye lens. Meaning to get another checkup. I have an older Leupold red dot I got as a gift.
Honestly it may not be as bad for you. I'm 19 and am convinced I have cursed health. Cancer, bad eyes, etc.
Had one, don't remember which one. A Burris fixed 3.5 of some kind. Glass was fine but reticle was the dumbest thing I have ever seen it was like trying to read fucking 2 point font at 20 feet and I have good eyesight.
Burris stuff by and large is total dildos, don't fucking bother
Yeah, the SPARC is probably what I'm going for. The StrikeFire II is great, but I feel it would really work best with some lower rings mounted on an AK, just seems natural to me.
Optics aren't one size fits all, same as rifles. I think the role they intend to fill determines the optic you should mount.
>low per scopes are king.
What about a scope that does both?
Fixed 4 or a 1-6 power
About 60% of our m4s have acogs. The saw gunners are issued m4s too, that just sit in the safe, so I cant do that math right now, but only a few people have aimpoints.
The t1 I got has a bit of a tail. The dot really does suck.
The glass would cost more than my rifle.
Seems like it would be better for a hi speed lo drag operator cqc setup, since the big objective gives you apparently very little "tube-vision", but otherwise it doesn't have enough to make it necessarily better than an aimpoint, but it certainly isn't worse.
>I dont know what a ocular lens is
>I think its the same size as the objective
does pic related have little tube vision retard?
eBay CompM4 for sure. Mine was cheaper than a Pro is new.
Also KAC Micros are best BUIS and two-dot or single dot pistol irons are best.
Yeah, I watched all of it but it's pretty confusing how he never mentions the rear sight leaf adjustments for 5.45 and instead of meters, my range only has yards.
I'm really interested in picking up an ACOG, as I've been saving for quite a while. I can see the advantages to both the chevron and the horseshoe. Is it fair to say the chevron is more precise for hitting out at 300-500 yards than the horseshoe, due to the fine point vs. 2 MOA dot?
I have minor astigmatism and I own an MRO. The dot does not look very different at all between what I see when I look through it, and when I put my phone behind the glass, focus the dot, and snap a picture.
I'd be wary of saying the MRO has any special attribute that makes it better than any other red dot for people with astigmatism
Interesting. My apologies for skimming the thread earlier as other anons covered this specifically.
That said, my main purpose with the ACOG is to reach out a bit more than my eyes are allowing me to do anymore, I have a red dot on my HD rifle.
Well, understand that ACOGs are not precision tools. They're designed to increase your hit probability, not take carefully aimed shots (though, they can certainly be used to fill this role, there are better choices if you're doing bench-style shooting). My issue with the chevron is that it's too small to really use up close (my vision isn't great) and at a distance it's not great because there it's extremely easy to miss the kind of cant you could easily see with a crosshair. I'm not saying it's bad, or that it's not the right choice for you, I'd only advise looking through one at a local store before purchasing it.
>>Well, understand that ACOGs are not precision tools. They're designed to increase your hit probability,
Yeah, that's actually exactly what I was looking for with a fixed 4x. Enough to reach out, but not too much for everything else. I was already leaning toward the horseshoe, just wondering if anyone felt the chevron to offer pronounced improvement in accuracy over the horseshoe's dot.
Getting Fiberoptic front with Green Tritium core.
Either Tritium front or 3dot Tritium
I'll be straight with you man, it has some very minor distortion near the very edges of its field of view, I usually leave it at 3x zoom. I got it for 300 with a set of PST rings at a gunshow this weekend.
I got a meprolight recently for my VZ, highly recommended, it's really nice. If you can get the washout remover device you should get it though, the reticle can be a bit hard to see on snow in the sun
Second for the horseshoe. When used quickly evrything blends together and acts as a simple dot. When used for accuracy, the point in the middle is tiny, and the edges of the horseshoe can be used as windage and elevation if you become familiar enough with it.