Had a great time with the last thread, let's keep it going.
Adjustable triggers and light strikes. Why would adjusting sear engagement take a rifle that had previously been 100% reliable and make it light strike 100% of the time with the same ammo from the same batch?
That particular adjustment has zero effect on any springs.
Remington 700 I assume?
This is the best video I've ever seen that explains how the Rem tirgger works, and how best to adjust it. Double check your adjustments vs it?
>want a 6mm long-range target/hunting rifle
>torn on caliber
>do handload, so wildcats OK
Should I go with a straight-up .243, a .243A|, a 6XC, or 6x47 Lapua? The .243AI provides the most velocity but barrel life is abysmal.
It's the MDT LSS, and as chassis go it seems to be one of the better ones. It's open top, compared to the closed off KRG X-ray, making it lighter and giving you lower and better mounting options.
I haven't messed with too many others, so I'll just recommend the MDT LSS on the fact that it's what I like and use.
I'd suggest 6mm Lapua, but 243 AI is good too. If it's only punching paper, 6mm is fine, but if it'll be hunting too I'd recommend bumping up to 6.5 CM, and enjoying all the loads, data, and factory ammo that offers.
Yeah, I dunno man, that's above my secrecy clearance. Does changing sear engagement have any impact on how the trigger springs are aligned?
Already have a 6.5CM. Want a fun gun that won't be insane to carry for things like antelope and Cou's whitetail, for which the 6.5CM is either overkill (Cou's) or drifts too much (antelope).
Also have several "big bore" rifles for bigger game, though shooting my mountain rifle in .325WSM gets old really quick.
Well 243 Ackley is going to be the cheapest on components; after you've fire formed the brass. I'd wager that even buying factory ammo, shooting it for the lulz, then reloading those cases would still be cheaper than virgin 6mm Lapua brass.
Make sure your chamber is cut deep enough for VLD 6mm bullets in a 243 AI though--it MAY require some gunsmithing and a special reamer.
>does changing sear engagement change trigger spring alignment?
As far as I can see no, but it's a sealed unit and there may be moving parts in there I can't get eyes on.
Either way, it's a striker-fired design just like most boltguns, there is no hammer spring in the trigger group because there's no hammer, and the firing pin spring is entirely separate.
The only thing I can come up with is the bottom of the sear catch on the bolt is dragging on something when I dial the sear engagement down.
It's a 100% repeatable (and undoable) issue, so it's most likely "working as intended".
Yeah I've fucked around with long 6mm bullets before (had a second-hand BR gun in 6mm Dasher, which was fun but also a PITA on reloading). Would probably try to shoot 115gr DTAC's for targets and probably 90gr Accubonds for hunting (neither Barnes nor Nosler offer a higher-BC 6mm, would give my eye teeth for a 6mm Accubond-LR).
PT&G offers a .243AI reamer with a throat specifically designed for the 115gr DTAC if I'm remembering right.
This is my attempt at getting into long range without spending a lot of money. My thought is that this will likely satisfy my needs or leave me wanting. Either way will work for me.
Just starting out in all the precision shenanigans, what are some good resources? I have a Tikka T3 in .308 that I've been enjoying, I just feel like I lack any real direction or training. I've just been shooting instinctively, and while I can shoot 1 MOA groups at 100 yards, I definitely have room to improve.
Pic related is my setup, scope is a PA 4-14x40 FFP.
Well for starters, your scope is nearly 2" too far back. You'll have to do the Y-chromosome version of the chick lean to get far enough back on the stock to see shit.
Other than that, your easiest/fastest route to improvement is learning to read wind.
whats a good first precision rifle?
is this any good? http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/36_1064/products_id/77820/Advanced+Armament+Remington+Model+7+300+AAC+Blackout
First thing I'd swap out on that setup is the stock; a nice B&C will go for under $300, and be much more rigid. You'd likely see a .5 MOA jump in accuracy with that alone.
Then I'd look into an optic with MRAD dials so you can get used to doping your optic. A Bushnell 10x40 MIL/MIL will let you keep your mounting hardware for now (that you'll want to swap later too) and start practicing.
Savage 10 FCP in 6.5cm
Yes, 6.5cm, not .308. Match ammo is the same price or cheaper, it is widely available, kicks less, drifts less, and drops less.
No. With qualifiers.
While .300blk can be a very accurate, precise round, it is not a caliber easy to shoot well at long range (it drops like a rock) and the temptation to buy the 45c/rd 147gr reman that's 3MOA ammo is too strong.
Several good options depending on price.
The Howa 1500 Targetmaster 308 is a great out of the box rig; comes with a heavy CHF barrel that's pinned to the receiver, and an integrated recoil lug. Throw it in a B&C stock and it's a hell of a rig.
As for Remingtons, the AAC 308 is great, drop it in a Magpul stock and it's a great rig (pictured).
Savage is great too, but they don't play as well with mags. On the upside, they are easy as can be to re-barrel later on, as you'll want to switch to 6.5CM after you shoot out your 308 barrel learning the ropes.
browsed past the first line and saw 6x47 and thought I saw 6.5x47 hence 6.5 cals.
I'd just look at the 6xc or just a normal 243. unless youre blowing out the shoulder with water youre just wasting bbl life with red dot & cream of wheat or shooting normal 243 loads to blow it out.
Interesting. I have this http://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-4-16x44-illuminated-mil-dot-scope-pa416x/p/kt-pa416x/ scope on my AR-10 and thought it might be a bit better than the Nikon. Any thoughts on that as an optic for my rifle?
just some cheap Burris XTR 30mm low rings.
They're OK, but certainly not "nice" just functional.
That's a great entry level optic, and comes highly recommended by most. The glass is ~meh, but the features are great.
If you're ok giving up FFP, check out the Vortex Viper HST optics; they run sub $600 for a 4-16x44
My idea is to dip my toe in the precision rifle class of rifles without spending a lot of money. I know that money and precision often go hand in hand but I want to shoot for a couple years to develop my taste for it. I am hoping to his a steel silhouette at 300 yards, then 500 yards and move up to 700.
Think I can do it with this setup? The scope is probably going to get swapped.
You could do that with a budget-tier AR and American Eagle ammo. Or a Savage Axis/Rem 783/other budget durrblaster in pretty much any caliber higher than .204 ruger, shooting whichever cheap ammo is available.
I don't have much experience past 200 yards. It is shameful and I have no reason for it. I have an AR-10 that I have only taken to the range once, a range of 100 yards. 30 guns, reloading setup, thousands of rounds of ammo and still usually shoot 100 yards. I want to change that in a big way. The 700 is my way to get into that. Pic of the AR-10 (PSA melonite).
How accurate is that PSA AR-10? I've been interested in those since they came out, but never committed due to accuracy concerns.
I don't really need or have a use for a battle rifle with 3 MOA accuracy.
The one time I took it out it was shooting pretty well. Like I have said before I am not great with precision. If I had to give you a group size I would say a couple inches.
I'm the guy who lays 50 clay pigeons on the ground 100 yards out and goes to town. Not a great shot. My reloads are 45 grains of win 748 with a 147 grain fmj. Works well in all my 308 rifles.
Mine is a 1/10 twist so 147 might be a bit light for it. I bet if I did some load development on some heavier bullets I could tighten the group down to 1.5 inches or so.
Cm-2 fag here.
Going off to the range today, I'm gonna try and snag some picture as my camera man's grandmother passed away yesterday and her funeral is today , so fewer chuckles.
I will be doing some range testing with PPU's "match grade ammo"
and some other fun things.
Full story at 22:00 e.s.t.
you know im waiting!
Anyone got some through scope pics to share?
thats you in the video?
if it isn't, are you admitting you're not shit either?
>people jump in these threads with someone else's shooting and proceed to call others bad, because someone on youtube is better
There are very few people who could do what that guy did in that video. Not even l33t navy seal oper8rs m8. Anyway this thread is talking about precision shooting which is usually done from a bench or inna prone. We are so mother fucking accurate and deadly that we only need but 1 shot.
I was simply stating that their match ammo in the caliber I have shot has been unimpressive, so I wouldn't have expected much more from their other calibers as well.
PPU seems to be "plinking" grade ammo in my experience, even if they charge an unwarranted premium.
I'm trying to get the pictures off my phone but it's not cooperating...
Max edge to edge was 15/16 (.9375-.22= .7175)
with RWS Target Rifle 40 gr.
Wind was 8-14 mph from 10 to 4 with some gust.
Shoot group was 11 rounds fired with one landing in the 7 ring due to a flyer, nearest "grouped" round was 2 inches away.
50 yrd groups.
5 rd 5/8ths edge to edge ( two flyers) match pistol ammo, unknown grain , white box.
3 rd 3/ 4th edge to edge " Aguila Ammunition "Interceptor" .22 LR 40-Grain
3 rd 11/16 th edge to edge RWS "target rifle"
Glenfield mod 25 < Millet 4-16 x44>
"target rifle "
3/4 inch edge to edge 5 shot group. after 4 rds to sight in.
I'll post the photos backing these up after a quick nap.
While ffp, and matched turrets and stadia are preferred, you can still use a duplex (or any reticle with some reference stadia) in the second focal plane even to estimate range even without knowing the subtensions.
Just figure out an easy measuring standard you can use at a range that matches the lowest magnification of your scope times 100, for example let use a common hunting power range of 3-9x.
So for 3x we find something at 300y (meters whatever it doesn't matter as long as you are consistent in how you measure) you can match against the space between the thick Duplex lines. A lot of american scopes are ~15" between the thick duplex lines at 3x at 100y, so at 300y I want something ~45"... which so happens to be about the height of a mature whitetail buck to the shoulder.
Now for any range beyond 300y just dial up in magnification until you match the reticle to the deer. 4.5x power = 450m, 6x power = 600m, etc. then you can use that information to dial your elevation correction, being that it is a SFP scope though for long range shooting it is recommended you shoot at the exact power you zero'd at since there can be zero shift through the magnification range.
I am unfamiliar with precision shooting as I have never shot past 100 yards. What is a good rifle and caliber to test the waters? I am a poorfag so I am not getting anything too expensive, maybe something in .223?
With money being a concern, just start with whatever centerfire you already own. 223 is perfectly fine through the mid ranges out to ~700m as long as you don't mind fighting the wind.
Well I have an 18" AR with a 1 in 8 twist .223 wylde chamber, an old Winchester 30-30 that was my great grandfather's deer rifle, an old Lee Enfield NO4MK1, and a Marlin model 60.
I don't have any bolt actions in a caliber that I can find locally. (.303 is hard to find here!)
an 18 inch upper should get you to where you need to be. if your AR is shooting well, you could easily learn 500-600, and after past that it becomes a wind game more than anything
What kind of sight system do you have on the AR? If you can get away with using that, you could drop the money that you would have spent on a rifle/scope, and just put it into a nice scope.
If the AR doesnt do what you need, would it be worth putting some money into?
I just looked up the Howa you recommended. That is just about exactly what i was wanting! I'd better start saving my money! Thanks man! I probably would have never looked at Howa rifles.
See if you can find a package without the scope, as it is in 1/4 MOA adjustments, and you'd be better off learning and using MIL/MRAD adjustments.
I actually sold the scope that came with mine and bought this optic (and added a scope and 20 MOA base), and had a very nice setup for under $1k.
You'd have to also get 1" rings though. If you want to stay with a 30mm tube (it's better anyway), look into a Vortex HST of SWFA to get you started on:
Well I just have some basic red dot on it. The AR itself is just something built by a small company in Mesquite Texas. So I have no idea how good it is, but it was cheap and i didn't have an AR so I jumped on it. It has a heavy ass quad rail and a cheap collapsing stock. I still have not shot it yet as I have been in school, but spring break is coming up soon.
I was wanting to try and learn the ropes during break.
You absolutely pay for what you get in glass.
The cheapest I'd go is that Bushnell, even though it has some pretty significant limitations
>no parallax adjustment
Primary Arms is a little more, with more features, but the glass is kind of meh
Yep, all mine.
Surefire switch is great, but the price is ridiculous for like 7" of cable and a switch.
Unfortunately there's no other game in town for those switches, so BOHICA those Surefire prices.
see what your AR does before you drop the money on a new rifle. The fact that you havent shot it, and are already looking for the next one means you are not that attached to it?
I'd recommend getting a 2.5-10 PST for it, and start playing around
if it still doesnt do it for you, just sell the AR and put that money towards a different rifle.
The Howa Paths recommends is a nice rifle, Ive got a Weatherby Vanguard tr in 223 that is the same action. Only thing that i dont like is that most smiths in Canada wont touch it due to the metric threads.
Got a piece o chit vortex kn the SCAR, a Nightforce on the .300 Win Mag, and the third is a piece o chit dog.
Taking inventory of shit I don't need, found 600 rounds of M118LR 2012 headstamp hiding in an ammo can.
Would asking $500 for the lot locally be fair? Been a while since I've seen some on the market, and while it's not hyper accurate, its still factory topped with 175gr SMKs.
How do I into bolt guns?
Where is a good place to learn/read about setting dope, the rifles and scopes, etc?
Central Texas my friend, sorry. I'll list them at $500 for the lot. I forget what I paid, but it was certainly less than $1/round and likely a good bit less.
I remember picking up a few thousand that were being fire dumped after MK316 came out.
That receiver is crazy.
I've been close quite a few times, but the vx-r patrol 3-9x has really done all I need to this point.
Was looking for the most retarded sling configuration I have a picture of on that rifle just for your thread homie.
Nothing wrong with that setup, but it reminded me of an old co-worker's 5.56 OBR he's had a fucking Sightmark red dot on and he only ever uses it to mag dump at 15 yards.
Damn rifle is wasted on him.
Feat not, I let that rifle stretch its legs whenever possible. The GF's Dad has a farm and I can shoot as far as I'd like. I've been pondering the idea of a 7.62. Parting with the $3500 isn't happening for a while.
I've shot a few flavors of LaRue as they are local to me, know a few ex-employees, and a lot of guys have them.
I may not like Mark's personality, but he treats his people right and his company makes damn fine rifles. I do prefer other mount offerings these days though.
Yeah, if it was another brand of rifle, I would have looked into other mounting options. I haven't any issue with say ADM, but being that it was a Larue rifle, I just thought the end result would look more complete keeping with their QD mounts. Also, being that a Mark 8 has a 34mm main tube, that really shorted the list of viable options for QD one piece mounts.
Its fast and flat compared to lightweight .223 varmint loads, but loses its edge quickly to the heavyweights once you get past a few hundred yards if we're talking target shooting.
Great prarie dog or coyote round, a good distance rig it is not though.
You can do precision shooting with 22lr.
Look at either a Savage mk2 or CZ 455. Either of those will be accurate enough for quite a long time and you can take those out from 50yds out to 200yds to learn and eventually take that out even further.
You'll be spending a bit on match ammo for 22lr, but if you were buying match ammo for a centerfire cartridge itll be cheaper compared to those anyways.
Yeah that is right. My buddy has the A-bolt and it has a different feel to it. I think it's the American vs euro style stock. But as for the barrels I do not know. Just got my x bolt 2 years ago and never seen a whole lot of mention anywhere of them... shame.
Hunting rifles. Metric threads, no aftermarket, issues with extraction into larger windage turrets.
That's just off the top of my head.
They are a great hunting rifle, not so much for long range.
I think they are perfect for long range, love the trigger, no creep. but that's just me. I managed to bag an elk from 650 yards last year. Not that impressive but it was such a clean shot I'm confident I could do 800 if I had a better scope
Most high end prs scopes are 34mm tubes. The x bolt rings don't get that big to my knowledge.
It's a great hunting rifle, the lack of aftermarket and the price point at which they start is keeping them out of the game.
Totally agree. Nothing aftermarket unless you get custom which is a fucking fortune. But I got this rifle so I wouldn't have to get as much custom as if I were to get a savage or something. The quality is top notch
Also wish I could get 10 round magazines because reasons but I read somewhere it's the design of the magazine the roter that doesn't allow it to hold more or something like that?
What would be a good setup for around $2000? I was thinking a tikka t3 with an mdt lss chassis, but I wasn't sure what scope to get. Also, do they offer a trigger that's non adjustable? I want one for reasons. I apologize for my ignorance, I'm still pretty new to guns.
There are quite a few 34mm options
American Rifle Co.
For a total setup of 2 grand I'd look at the RPR since you can buy the full rifle in a decent chassis for under 1100. That then leaves you with 900 for optic, rings, and other accessories. With the remaining 900 I'd look at seekins rings for 119. I'd then look at the swfa ss 3-15 for 699. Then look at the Tab Gear rear bag for 21. That then leaves you with 59$ for a few boxes of ammo till you can save up some more for a bipod.
You can assemble a respectable rig for 2k total including glass. It's *very* easy to spend more though, so I'd consider how much you are really willing to budget considering your unfamiliarity with the discipline.
Strangers on the internet (myself) included will happily recommend you spend yourself into a deep dark hole without a limit.
If money isn't a problem. Then get the tikka t3, but look at the HS3 chassis over the lss. I have the lss but it leaves me wanting more for an actual rifle chassis. A little too short on the front end so it keeps the bipod to close compared to most other chassis systems. On the back end it only accepts carbine buffer tubes unless you add the adapter which then adds way too much LOP to the buttstock. So on the buttstock you either go with the Fab defense adj cheekpiece on their buttpad, or the magpul ctr with their risers or some other buttstock but they just don't feel as solid as something like the magpul prs. On the HS3 it comes with the ability to take the prs or their own skeletonized buttstock. It comes with aftermarket stock sides so if you jack up a set or if you want a different color you can change it out quickly. If you get into NV you can buy the hood for clip ons, and you can add pic rails in the 3,6 and 9 positions very easily.
So just to recap if you were on a money isnt a problem but you dont want to spend the cost of a car then look at a Tikka t3 in the MDT HS3 with actual precision buttstock and a good pistol grip. Personally I enjoy the ergo tactical deluxe grips, but look at the flat top tactical deluxe since those don't have the duckbills/beavertails. Bipod wise, look at the B&T Ind. Atlas v8.1, which requires a pic rail that can be purchased from MDT to screw onto the bottom of the HS3.
You'd prolly need to look at some sort of 20MOA scope base for the tikka. NF has one for like 60$.
I'd then switch the Seekins rings and swap those out to a Spuhr 34mm 6mil mount. With a 56mm obj lens you shouldn't have any issues going with the SP-4601 (1.18"). At least I don't have issues with my Steiner touching the heavy contour on my AI bbl, which is also on a 20moa low base.
Scope wise you could save some money and either role with the Bushnell dmr/hdmr line or wait for their dmr2 to role out since those can be had for 1500 or less. (TBC)
If you want to spend 2k, I'd wait a lil bit since Steiner's Tactical line is finally getting their shit together and those should start being the great buys like they were meant to be.
If you are wanting to spend 2500 look at the Vortex razor hd gen2 4.5-27
You can keep spending more, but really I thinking 2500 is the limit where diminishing returns really start to become more pronounced and it becomes more a thing of paying for the different reticles or other features of the scope outside of tracking&warranty.
If youre wanting to spend less than 1300 on an optic and if you cant find or dont like the Bushnell dmr/hdmr line then look at the Burris XTR2 series either their 4-20/5-25. The 4-20 should be getting a Horus 591 reticle starting this year.
Burris is solid and has a great warranty. Not like vortex or bushnell now but a good warranty nonetheless.
PS: If I were telling you a black hole build we would be talking completely things and you'd be looking at over 30-40k for the rifle setup. The above is a bit more palatable and everything that you purchase will also be good while you grow as a shooter. Eventually you should outgrow the usefulness of the Tikka and the HS3 and at that time you can take the scope, rings and all non rifle specific accessories and transfer those to your higher end rig.
SWFA-SS fixed x10 power and 1/10 twist 18"barrel
I just bought a remington 700 as a first rifle, and I eventually want to get into longrange shooting. I think I'll start at 100-200 yards, then work my way up. What scopes would you guys recommend for $500 or less to start out with? I want something with mil-dots, I think, to practice dope/holdover/whatever.
Tbh though, I was kinda thinking about getting a cheapo something-or-other ($100-250 ballpark) to start out with, then eventually upgrading to something way better ($800-1500).
$500 will get you a decent SWFA SS series, or a Vortex Viper HST with a SFP reticle.
Personally, I don't like the SWFA reticles. The Vortex HST is SFP, which isn't ideal but it'll get you started. I swapped mine on my PR for a FFP Viper PST, but the HST is on my hunting rifle now and it does great still in that role.
You'd be at further ahead getting something nicer to start. I started with an hst 4-16 three months later I got a razor 5-20
At your price point for "down the road" look for a burris xtr ii in 3-15 or 4-20. It will last you well into your next rifle.
I wouldn't spend $500 on a scope. Either spend <$300 (Primary Arms 4-14 FFP, SWFA SS, Bushnell 3200) or spend $800-$1000 (Bushnell ET6245F or Viper PST FFP 6-24).
There aren't any scopes actually worth $500 in terms of features. Get a cheaper, but useable scope and move it to a different rifle when you have enough for a real scope. Or buy a real scope to start out.
Much better? Possibly better, in your gun versus mine, on a Tuesday. More likely it's just one of those arguments that you can't really answer because it all depends on your definition of "better."
I will agree with you, if you're talking about long range ammunition, probably using >100 gr bullets. However, most long range precision ammo is not shot from the magazine, which is what I gathered the question had to do with. And are you sure the popularity of 7-08 vs 7 mm Mauser doesn't have a little bit to do with guys having lots of .308 cases lying around way back when? Half joking, but that's part of why I started shooting .260 20 years ago.
most of the guys that frequent the PSG's are after repeaters mainly. the 308 case does help drive the popularity of the 7-08 for sure, but i would also argue that 243win cases for fire-forming 243AI are easier to come by than 6mm remington, or its parent case.
The single feeding long range rig's are starting to show up only in certain disciplines, which i dont think many on this board shoot.