I've decided to put together a bug out bag and need some advice as to which type of combat knife I should buy.
I've been reading some reviews online but I figure you guys know more on the topic, alot of reviewers tend to be idiots.
Im looking for a fixed blade obviously, the longer the better. I've been looking at ka-bars, gerbers, and columbia rivers but there are also many other brands and I dont know where to begin.
Price maximum I'd say 150$.
If you guys can help, its much appreciated.
Combat knives are for fags and autists with some spare money
Most real knife fights are quick and it's all stabbing.
Even "operators" employ the x-treme ancient tacticool technique of stabbing their enemies to death as quick as they can.
You can get a china 5$ dagger that's no longer than 6 inches(I'd say 4 or 5 but whatever) that's a perfectly fine "combat" knife.
Everything else is consumerism.
Get the Marine Raider OP.
This fuckers like 8mm's thick and has a nice clip so you can stab the fuck out of things.
Or just buy like 5 glock knives.
Is something like this any good? Only rhing that bothers me os the serrated front
Or, you could spend $500 and get the perfect knife
Actual combat knives make for shitty utility knives. Besides, the benefits of a fighting knife is lost when you're not trained.
Any decently made knife will go pokey pokey, stabby stabby on flesh.
Given your budget, I would look at an ESEE 4/5/6
>shitty finger grooves
>slab sided/ sculpted scales
A cheap ripoff of buck 119.
Does everything a buck 119 does but for half the price.
I got mine at Canadian tire for 30 CAD.
/k/ knows about as much as your local fudd does about knives. I've been frequenting /k/ for almost a decade, which is no credential of significance, I can assure you. I'll school you.
First of all, this is /k/, so I'm going to talk about using a knife as a weapon rather than as a tool. If you want to talk about a knife's use as a tool, go to /out/.
The first thing you need to understand is that your Hollywood "knife fight" in which both/all participants are armed with a knife is a thing of fantasy. This happens so little of the time that it's an irrelevant consideration.
The second thing you need to understand is that /k/ is most interested in knives that are traditional and look pretty rather than knives built to do a job. What you need is a knife built to do a job. You're right to ask about a knife that's bigger; a bigger knife is always better. What you don't need to give a shit about is edge retention; what you DO need to give a shit about is ergonomics, toughness, rust resistance, impact resistance, size, and ease of sharpening.
I'm going to tell you right now, >>28420235 is the best suggestion so far ITT.
I prefer Cold Steel for fighting knives because they're not shy about the intended purpose of their product.
The Trailmaster fits right into your price range and offers everything you'd need. It's the best thing you can afford. I alternatively suggest the Shanghai Shadow or the newer Shanghai Warrior. They're big, they're cheap and they're built for your specific purpose. They also have great sheaths.
Even lower on the price scale is the Tanto Lite. I've owned one for years and beat the shit out of it. It's worth it.
While nutnfancy doesn't have much martial arts experience, he knows what he's talking about in these reviews for the most part.
Oh, and don't use a fighter for utility. Its edge should be kept pristine.
> no A/F knife
buncha noobs. Pictured is a Boker version, made in germany and legittt
Do you want a pure killin' knife? One of these guys or a fairbairn style dagger.
Do you want a big utility knife? Go for a bushcraft knife like an Esee 6.
a combat knife isn't useful for anything outside of a knife fight, and even then there are better alternatives.
If you want to chop wood with a knife, get a kukri
If you want to skin with a knife, get a skinning knife
If you want to filet fish, get a filet knife.
There is no 'general purpose' knife that will do all three of those things. Knives aren't a jack-of-all-trades sort of thing, they have a purpose built into their design.
what do you guys think of something like this?
All of the Beckers are nice knives, but you may have length restrictions to consider if you want to leave the house with the knife. Obviously all that's off if the zambies attack, but otherwise you don't need to give any LE a reason to fuck with you.
You should also look at the Ontario RTAK2. The 1 looks cooler, but Ontario had some trouble with the heat treat so I'd advise getting a new one.
Speaking from lots of experience with blades, American made doesn't mean shit. The best quality production blades tend to come from Taiwan. All American made will do for you most of the time is up the price. However, the BK9, from what I know, looks like a good knife, and it's not as thick as I thought it was (very good thing; a knife is a cutting tool, not a pry bar).
There are many different steels. Usually, plain 1095 is a good steel with a good reputation. Supposedly, the 1095 Cro-van Ka-bar uses is better. I only have experience with plain 1095, and I've been very pleased with it.
>(very good thing; a knife is a cutting tool, not a pry bar)
This. "Overbuilt" knives just look silly.
I have a lot of experience with Taiwanese-produced knives from Cold Steel and Spyderco. Top notch for what you're paying; expect great quality control, fit and finish, and out-of-box sharpness from both companies as well as great customer service.
Not only do they look silly (I think I threw up in my mouth a little bit when I saw that image), they're terrible cutting tools. OP, please don't get a knife like the one anon here posted. A knife should be thin behind the edge.
My favorite blade shape is the full flat ground leaf shape blade Spyderco does. However, for your purposes OP, you should be looking at a big ol' bowie, a hollow ground dagger or tanto.
Generally speaking, steel is the last thing to worry about. Most users won't notice much of a difference between decent steels.
The first thing you ought to know is that steels are usually classified as either carbon or stainless. Stainless steels have less carbon and/or include other materials in the steel to help with corrosion resistance, but they can still rust. Carbon steels are pretty much anything else.
There are a multitude of each type of steel. Carbon includes 1075, 1095, 5160, D2, and others. Stainless includes the 440 series (A,B,C) and others. Carbon steel is generally considered better for large blades because stainless is more brittle.
Kabar's 1095CV is good shit, but it's more important that they do a good heat treat.
so the bk9 is a 1095 and the rtak2 is a 5160 I believe. is there muh of a difference in these two?
and yeah that looks ridiculous. I'm liking both the ontario and the ka-bar becker.
For a smaller blade (read: knives), 1095 is superior to 5160 in terms of hardness and edge retention.
5160 is superior for larger blades (read: machetes, swords) because it is softer and thus more flexible and resistant to impact. This also means it dulls more easily.
ESEEs are primarily survival tools; a good survival knife makes a bad fighting knife and vice versa.
This is a good post, and I especially want to point out what this anon said about heat treat. Heat treatment is a little more important than the steel used and has a very direct effect on how the knife will perform and behave.
As I've said before, the "knife fight" is a thing of fantasy. The knife is a backup weapon to compliment one's primary, which should, where legal, be a firearm. Where it isn't legal (which is most everywhere that isn't America), it's something else, and for many people it's a knife.
You would be wise to choose one of those two. I don't have any pics of mine on hand, but I also recommend pic related. They look silly to some but they're the best daggers available for the money, especially with those broad, smatchet-like leaf blades.
I also contend that the GI Tanto is the best value for a fixed blade in the word.
GI Tanto, pictured.
The sheath is also superb.
your making a bugout bag.
and you want a "combat knife"
congrats on getting a tacticool tool that serves no real purpose in what should be a minimal weight bag.
pic is a combat knife.
it's good for stabbing, and pretty much nothing else.
what you want in your bug out bag should be a knife that has multiple functions, get one with a streaght edge, if it has serrations make sure they are on the back of the blade, not the front, a slight curve and a heavy blade can be useful as well.
a fixed blade is nice, no moving parts and all that, but in your bugout bag you want a knife that has as many functions and is RELIABLE, getting a specialized tool is fucking retarded.
I got a schrade schf9. I like the blade a lot for survival purposes. I can use it for lots of larger tasks, but I really can't recommend it for people with thinner hands. It's got a very thick grip, and the finger grooves make handling it somewhat clumsy.
This post is objectively wrong.
The man who designed that knife has over 40 years of martial arts experience. Push daggers kick ass and it's a good recommendation. The point (if you'll excuse the pun) of a push dagger is that you can put a tremendous amount of force behind the strike without putting in equivalent effort. Where I live they're illegal, and this makes me very sad.
I never liked these. The handles irk me, they're flat ground, the points are fragile, and for what they are, they're expensive. They're glorified shanks rather than refined fighting knives.
As with what everyone in the thread has said, a knife fight never happens and the "winner" is the one who dies on the operating table instead of in the gutter.
A person is able to take dozens (literally dozens) of knife stabs and remain combat functional for the duration of a fight if he isn't stabbed in the vitals.
You typically need 3.5 inches of blade to reach a vital organ to kill a man quickly with a knife. These locations include the brain (through the eyes or nose or temple), severing the spine, the heart, the lungs (to a lesser degree), the kidneys (I read somewhere in the FS Instruction stuff that the intense pain from being stabbed in the kidneys immediately cripples a combatant regardless of adrenaline), or the neck via carotid artery.
Stabbing anywhere else does not guarantee immediate neutralization, which means you yourself are more likely to be stabbed a bunch and die as well.
Even the most trained knife fighters are basically taught to thrust their knife faster than the enemy and kill him before you yourself are injured. There's basically no grappling or blocking involved, because if you're having to block stabs you're probably going to end up stabbed regardless.
Which makes combat knives basically useless. Even operator navy seals say they prefer larger more utility knives than combat knives, because they stab a dude maybe once or twice but they cut rope, wood and open tin cans all the time, and combat knives are only slightly better at stabbing dudes than regular bushcraft/utility fixed blades.
That said, I would recommend an ESEE 4 or 6 (the 5 is an overbuilt tool for helicopter egress), BK9, BK2, BK5, BK7 (any of the medium models), a Benchmade Bushcrafter, a good old Buck 119 or the retired Frontiersman model, or basically any other 4-7 inch full or near-full tang construction fixed blade.
The Ka-Bar was left out because it has a stick tang which doesn't compare to the durability or strength of a true full tang. It's an aged model.
I don't recommend any folder with a liner lock for this purpose. Liner locks, frame locks and the like are great for EDC, but they're not strong enough for this application. The fixed blade, however? Absolutely, though I personally would rather the Hisshou.
One caveat: I don't know much about 440A, and can't tell you whether or not it's a good steel for this application. I generally will recommend a tough steel like 1055, 4116 or AUS8 for this.
I own a Ka-Bar. I also own an ESEE 6, my current go-to survival knife with a full tang construction. I like my Ka-Bar, but pic related is why I don't carry it. I always carry a hatchet, a pocketknife, a multitool and a fixed blade when I camp simply for the utility and redundancy, but if I were in the Rocky's in the winter with only one fixed blade, I wouldn't choose the Ka-Bar.
The thinner tang simply can't support the loads compared to a full-thickness tang. It's simple stress loading mechanics (that and the sharp corners of the transition from the blade to the tang are awful stress concentrators).
Semantics. The tang is thinner than many other full tangs purpose built for survival situations. I (and many others) would consider it stick, others would call it full. Regardless, it's thin, and weaker than other blade designs.
>I still don't know what full tang means
>But let me tell you why I'm right
Don't be a dumb nigger. Based on the most common definition of full tang, yes, the Ka-Bar is a full tang. However, the thickness of said tang is less than the thickness of other comparable knives, and as such, mechanically weaker at the junction between blade and tang. This cannot be argued, it is a mathematical fact. I like my Ka-Bar, I use it often. Would I trust my life to it knowing I have other more suitable alternatives? No.
Based on pic-related, I would classify it as either half-tang (the tang being 1/2 the width of the blade) or encapsulated tang.
Regardless, the terms used to describe something may vary and autists like you can sperg over the definition of the descriptors, but the geometry doesn't lie.
not stick tang. yours maybe is stick, but in that knife the entire handle is the tang.
>Don't be a dumb nigger.
Followed immediately by:
>Based on the most common definition of full tang, yes, the Ka-Bar is a full tang.
So yes, the Kabar is full tang. Glad we agree.
That image is inaccurate.
Would you mind using your grown-up words and explain what you mean?
That pic is a standard USMC Ka-Bar Fighting/Utility Knife, made of 1095 Cro-Van, with leather spacers removed post-failure.
Here is a different Ka-Bar failing in the same method, with all the furniture included.
Ka-bars are stick tangs with stacked leather washer handles and a pinned pommel.
Yes, the Ka-Bar is a full tang based on a SINGLE INTERPRETATION of the term. Using other interptretations, it is a stick tang.
Let me be that guy and quote myself, in meme font
>Regardless, the terms used to describe something may vary and autists like you can sperg over the definition of the descriptors, but the geometry doesn't lie.
Those are the Ka-Bar/Becker model knives, and are generally referred to as "Beckers" not "Ka-Bars" to easily differentiate between the older Ka-Bar model and the new joint-production line.
The Beckers are generally considered full tang, or skeletonized/hollow full tang, and are mechanically stronger than the original, famous Ka-Bar model.
>based on a SINGLE INTERPRETATION of the term
Which is, in your own words, the most common interpretation. At this point it just seems like you're going out of your way to use the wrong terminology and just hiding behind semantics when you get called on it.
I don't understand why we haven't all moved on from the Ka-bar to better versions of that knife from other companies. The Leatherneck that Cold Steel makes is better in every way, for instance. Better handle, FULL tang that goes all the way through to the machined steel pommel, a better sheath, D2 steel, DLC coating, and it's around the same price.
>ids full dang! XDDDD
If you refer to my original post >>28422213
I discussed that I recommended ESEE or Becker, but explained that Ka-Bars are flawed.
Then that dictionary dick suck derailed the thread with semantics.
No shit? That was what I said in >>28422213
Stick tang is one interpretation of the geometry, full tang is another. It is ambiguous because the terms are not discrete, they are flawed and overlap. Read the thread, we have had enough autistic definition sperging over it for you to write a book.
It is the most common interpretation I have run across. I personally don't agree, but this puts me in the minority camp. Secondly, I called it a stick tang in my first post and hence corrected my statement for your peace of mind.
These are my posts. Those who continue to argue stick/full are not me.
I honestly could care less what the proper nomenclature for the tang is, it's weaker than other models and I don't like it. There are better alternatives.
Because it's iconic. That's the only reason.
In the modern age with modern knife designs, it is inferior. It was a mass-produced fighting/utility knife for WWII and onwards, and it is good for the cost, but it isn't a racehorse performance knife. It's a relatively cheap knife meant to be produced in the thousands every day and given to GIs to open tin cans while shitting in a trench, stab nazis, japs and gooks, cut rope, shave wood, and other tasks, while being cheap.
Nowadays, Ka-Bar can coast on the fame of the knife to sell them for $80 when the construction method is cheaper than competitors.
>I personally don't agree
And you personally are wrong.
>running the length doesnt make it a full tang
That was the exact definition before people who can't into knives conflated slab tang with full tang and muddled it.
Congratulations, you've defended the integrity of a definition on the internet.
In a thread about discussing the advantages and disadvantages of the knives themselves.
Now that we all have gotten our PhD in Knife Tang Nomenclature, can we please stop having this autistic, pointless debate about semantics, and go back to actually talking about knives and their use?
Even the autist I was originally arguing with admitted that the terminology that I use is the most common and his semantic nonsense was entirely based on FEELS.
If you continue this you'll do nothing but put your ass out.
I agree with your statement. Knife fights usually end the same way. One person goes to the hospital, the other is dead or dying.
But discussing blades. A general purpose knife that can skin, chop, whittle, pry, and do other things is, in my opinion, going to be a fixed 5"-6" blade with a decent point and a decent belly. Are there specific blades that can do each job better? Absolutely. But one can do them all well enough if you do your part.
None of this re-curve shit, none of this tanto point shit.
I think the Esee-5 is actually a great example of a simple do-all knife.
Grabbed this on sale for $65. It's pretty sweet, kind of strange looking but it's grown on me already. I think you can still get them on Amazon for $100 flat.
This is exactly the kind of ignorant post I was talking about here >>28421047
You motherfuckers watch too many movies.
The tanto point has been bastardized by maker after maker, but the original American tanto point that was first made and spread about by Cold Steel was designed to do a couple of things. The primary is to pierce well while maintaining a strong point. The second thing is to perform a snap cut, which is a quick strike used in some form of martial arts which results in a light cut with most knives and a devastating gash with a tanto point.
It's a design meant for martial artists, which makes sense when you consider that they are Cold Steel's primary target market.
Oh, and I don't know about for fighting, but for utility use, recurves are fucking awesome in my experience...but that's a discussion for /out/, where all discussion of knives for utility purposes should stay.
Becker BK7 or BK9. You are unlikely to ever need a knife to kill. If you ever did these two would do the job.
Real combat knives tend to be thin, have double sided blades or at least a sharpened top swedge. These things make them really bad for something like batoning wood.
In a "bug out" situation you need to be able to survive, the Becker BK7 or BK9 will be far better than any "combat" knife on the market. Also, they are great values and split wood so well.
Tell that to the guys who fought WWI
OUTTA MY WAY /K/ SHITS
BEST KOMBAT KNIFE CUMMING THROUGH
If you're gonna post "zombie" shit at least show from a knifemaker that focuses on building good shit instead of cheap gimmick blades.
Looks good but never handled one so cant comment on it.
Having two different edge geometries might be useful but for me it feels like something i would just be annoyed by.
A chopper is used for chopping, other knives handle whittling much better.
Besides, i have whittled with a full size kukri with a steep convex grind and it can be done if you really need to for some reason.
If you can't win a fight with any old knife, I suggest you stay out of fights.
But as John Wayne would say, "Don't pick a fight, but if you find yourself in one I suggest you make damn sure you win."
IMO you may as well go for the 9 of you're considering the 7. Same handle, just a bit more blade in a slightly different profile. At the very least you'll have a bigass knife and if you decide that your bigass knife is too big for carry/camping/etc. then you have an excuse to get something more practical.
Just go for the 9. A bigger blade can do more than a smaller blade, usually at a higher price. The fact that you found the 9 at a lower price is a blessing. Do it.
Wow no one has thrown out the Schrade SCHF52 yet?
Excellent all around knife with 1095 steel that other "premium" knife makers will charge you 3 times as much for. Even if you factor in buying a better sheath(I use a Spec-Ops brand Combat Master Knife Sheath, Long) it's still a great value.
Schrade schf 19 I believe. This is the way I look at it. Id rather had a knife I can do a few things with if I have to. Be that split wood,or widdle some shit,or In the Extream off chance you actually Have to use it in self defense you could even use the butt of the knife to bash someone's brains in.
Look at the newer SCHF 51 and 52 models instead. They fixed the gimpy handle design that would fuck your hands up if you tried to chop with them. Lots of vids on youtube about the changes.
Look at the newer SCHF 51 and 52 instead. They fixed the messed up handle design that would tear your hands up if you tried to chop with them. Lots of vids on youtube about them.
Also have this schf 21.cant beat the price for the level of protection it offers. Easy to conceal As well
Got a good amount off, but looks dirty as hell.
Need to take some steel wool to or something.
After that I'm going to blue it.
Bluing it just for looks? Blue is very thin; it'll wear off the first day you take it out and use it.
I mean, I'm sure it'll look cool, but blue isn't a very good protectant for a hard use knife.
Get a Kukri, OP. Good enough for the Gurkhas, good enough for you.
Bah Micarta just adds weight and makes the handle fatter. I like the slimness and traction of the rubber. It's a shame you didn't know about the 52. It fixed every problem I had with the older generation of the design.
Better than bare steel or blue is the factory coating on the blade. Yes, an acid patina would be the best option if you didn't like the powder coat, but he said blue, and the only reason I can see anyone bluing a knife is for looks.
Like a patina, bluing is a form of rust that adds a protective layer to the metal beneath. Why do you think guns were all blued before there were stainless/nickel/more modern coatings?
Yes, and as I said, bluing is extremely thin. Whacking a branch will take your blue off, then you have no rust protection.
>Friction, as from holster wear, will quickly remove cold bluing, and will also remove hot bluing, rust, or fume bluing over long periods of use. It is usually inadvisable to use cold bluing as a touch-up where friction is present. If cold-bluing is the only practical option, the area should be kept oiled to extend the life of the coating as much as possible.
Most of the commercial blues I know of are cold bluing, not hot bluing. I mean, he could hot blue it, but I doubt that's what he referred to when he said "blue."
Well in a shtf situation, my condor Hudson Bay knife would be my main blade. I drilled a hole in the handle for a lanyard, this thing is heavy duty and I've used and abused it for 5 years.
Ah ok, I get your point. Nothing will protect your high carbon steel forever though if you don't maintain it properly. I use RIG on guns and knives. Impregnate a rag with it and just wipe after use. https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Cleaning-and-Maintenance/RIG/RIG%C2%AE-Universal-Gun-Grease.aspx
Name & Model of the middle knife anon?
F&S fighting knife is not a refined fighting knife? Come again? I'm assuming you know who developed it and thier credentials right?
On the much more expensive side is the old Buck Frontiersman model which is full tang.
I don't own one, but I've held one and it's a much nicer knife (albeit over $100).
The 119 is good though, I do own one of those. Nice fishing/carving knife.
Anyone know good places to buy knives in Europe? Pref the UK? I only know of Hennie but they seem really rather expensive compared to US prices
Thinking about trying this bad boy out. It's only $40 on Amazon and it doesn't look too much like a 12 year old drew it in his notebook. Any thoughts?
I like the look of the Grad .22 more
what other anon said about bluing
have you thought about any other home finishes
i've had some good results