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/wt/ - watch thread

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Thread replies: 308
Thread images: 86

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This thread is about the appreciation of horology, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.

>Required Viewings For Newbies:
https://youtu.be/_2J5phyd9J4

>Strap Guide:
http://pastebin.com/SwRysprE

Previous thread:
>>61667635
>>
>>61686645
how's it worse?
no danger of being magnetised sounds like a very good reason.

arguably silicone is plastic, too.
>>
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First for quartz-regulated balance wheel
>>
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3rd for the watch equivalent of fedoras
>>
>>61686709
>>arguably silicone is plastic, too.

It's an element, in no way can you call it a plastic.
>>
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Is Rolex Explorer I too boring?
>>
>>61686738
> Silicones, also known as polysiloxanes, are polymers that include any inert, synthetic compound made up of repeating units of siloxane, which is a chain of alternating silicon atoms and oxygen atoms, frequently combined with carbon and/or hydrogen.

Silicone is not pure Si
>>
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>>61686627
Fuck off ninefag
>>
>>61686754
It's a good thing new escapements aren't made of silicone, but silicon.
>>
>>61686738
That's Silicon, not silicone you dingus.
>>
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>>61686766
so if that can confuse ppl, how do you know sistem51 is actually plastic?

there are even retards that mistook ceramic for plastic because it looks similar, so later TAG Heuer dyed it black to satisfy the retards.
>>
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>>61686894
>how do you know sistem51 is actually plastic?

Gee, I wonder. Maybe this is some highly advanced material 10x harder than steel.
>>
So I'm looking into diver watches up to 200-220 bucks and I'm kinda torn between several Seiko models and Orient ones.
Are there differences between the brands or does it come down to taste in the end?
>>
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Need a dress watch, looking at SARB033 or SDGM003 or SARX033.


any suggestions?
>>
>>61686925
>Maybe this is some highly advanced material 10x harder than steel.
you do realize you just described carbon fiber, which is plastic.
>>
>>61686976
Get the SARX. If I recall correctly it has the diashield like the SDGM.
>>
>>61686985
That pallet fork & escape wheel clearly isn't carbon fiber, so it's completely irrelevant.
>>
>>61687002
Maybe he meant carbon or glass fiber reinforced plastic, but even then the gears really should be steel.
>>
>>61687002
how can you say clearly?
like you can't finish the surface.

you should notice that plastic can basically have any attribute you want.

anyway, determining the material by eyesight is absurd.
>>
So I'm torn between the following:
Seiko SKX007K2
Seiko SNZH53
Seiko SNZF17
Orient 5 Deep Mako II

Which one is objectively the best and which one would you personally get?
>>
>>61687102
>which one would you personally get?
turtle
>>
>>61687091
I think I'll trust a watchmaker when he says "it's plastic". Do you really expect a cheap swatch to have a material for the escapement that's better than steel? How much do you think those silicon escapements cost?

http://watchguy.co.uk/review-a-trip-inside-the-swatch-sistem51-eta-c10111/
>>
>>61686992
diashield is overrated, still gets scratches on polished surfaces.
Grand Seiko itself even has no diashield.
>>
>>61686976
Does that SARX have an enameled dial? It almost looks like it does.
If so, get that.
>>
>>61687123
>Do you really expect a cheap swatch to have a material for the escapement that's better than steel?
your alternative fact seem to be that ETA is too cheap for steel?
steel escapement would cost them what? .00001 cents?
>>
>>61687230
>your alternative fact seem to be that ETA is too cheap for steel?

What the hell are you talking about? I'm saying plastic is a sub par material, it's clearly not silicon or some other advanced material either, and that you should expect a steel escapement in a $150 watch.

Ask swatch why they decided to use plastic instead of steel m8.
>>
>>61687220
It's a sunburst if I'm not mistaken, it's the other presages that have an enamel dial.
>>
>>61686748
That's not an explorer 1, my dude.
But, yes it is (the explorer, not the datejust in your pic) and I particularly don't like the 3,6,9 numerals.
>>
>>61687270
you are the one claiming this is a cost-cutting measure, so obv the questions are:
1. how much cost did they cut?
2. how much quality did they cut?
you did answer neither.

on paper it looks far superior than say a 7s26 in every aspect:
has hacking/handwinding
+/- 7 secs/day accuracy vs -20/+40
90h power reserve vs 40h
>>
>>61687385
>you are the one claiming this is a cost-cutting measure

Literally never claimed this. You gotta stop reading things that aren't there.
>>
>>61686976
>make a watch
>give it 3 different model numbers

So this is the power of Seiko....
>>
>>61687402
>>61687270
>you should expect a steel escapement in a $150 watch
>>
>>61687415
>>Ask swatch why they decided to use plastic instead of steel m8.
>b-but you said they did it because it's cost saving!

Increase your reading comprehension.
>>
>>61687428
strongly implied then, but whatever.

there are still zero reasons given why that alleged plastic escapement is subpar.
>>
>>61687527
It's softer than steel, which means it's inevitably going to wear faster. That should be self-evident.
>>
>Not making your movements out of tungsten
>>
>>61687568
it totally is not.
ever heard of lubrication?
>>
>>61687604
Lubrication isn't going to make plastic as long lasting as steel.
>>
>>61687628
steel gears w/o lubrication aren't lasting very long at all
>>
>>61687652
And an unlubricated plastic escapement would last even less time.
>>
>>61687660
only if it's not self-lubricating
>>
>>61687680
Unless you know for certain the shit51 movement has self-lubricating plastic, don't bring up irrelevant shit.
>>
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muh dick
>>
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Frankly you all need to research this new technology from Zenith.

There have been secret rumblings about this new technology from Zenith for some time. Most of which seems to have originated directly from Jean-Claude Biver. I think these articles finally makes it official.

"It’s a regulator that has no hairspring, no balance wheel, needs no oil, where friction does not exist, and is accurate to one second in 24 hours – the most accurate mechanical watch ever."

Apparently it will run at 15 hz, have a case made of potions aluminium sponge and cost just under CHF 10k. Release date for the first ten preorder units is September 10th.

http://watchesbysjx.com/2017/06/breaking-news-jean-claude-biver-reveals-radical-new-regulator-at-zenith.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_GZEEExTPo&app=desktop

>PIC NOT RELATED
>>
>>61687759
Ah this one, too bad everything about this watch aesthetically suck. I want my 3 color sub-dials back desu.
>>
>>61687707
it's totally relevant that plastic can be made self-lubricating, but steel not.
>>
>>61687789
that's Philippe DuFour's Duality.

Have you ever seen any of Philippe DuFour's movements, creature?
>>
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>>61687759
>oscillator is almost as wide as the whole dial.

Interdasting. Nice to see these high beat/high power reserve escapements are moving out of just being a concept (like the senfine or the magnetic thing debethune was working on).
>>
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>>61687811
I'm talking about the new Zenith you dingus.
>>
>>61687811
Pretty sure he's talking about the el primero in the vid m8.
>>
>>61687759
>>61687819
>new technology from Zenith
>the watch clearly has Tag Heuer written on it
>>
>>61687837
Maybe biver's eyesight is getting poorer and he got the watchmakers to put the movement in a tag case by mistake :^)
>>
>>61687819
Yo, my nigga where can i get one of those for my next concert man, that look dope, there's a gold version right?
>>
>>61687874
One can only hope the final production watch with that movement doesn't look like a royal oak concept or hublot.
>>
>>61687887
>Tag
>Biver
Don't get your hope up m8
>>
>>61687759
If I'm reading the article right, only the first 10 experimental watches (for 30k) will have that composite aluminum case material. I'm guessing the regular ones will be steel.
>>
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>>61687907
>>
>>61687102
Out of those? SKX.
>>
>>61687102
SKX for sure x2
it's not debatable.
>>
>>61686627
That picture.

OK, so we have a large SI structure - and yet the balance wheel is a traditional type with adjustment screws.

WHY??
>>
was the Grand Seiko originally for Yakuza?
>>
>>61688475
Why not? It came out in 2013, I forget if all the non-traditional balances wheels started really becoming a thing then.
>>
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pls gib
>>
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I want a watch that shows day and date, has a good mechanism and looks good while being worn casually or with a suit. Any recommendations? Also id on this beauty.
>>
>>61690396
Looks like and SNK135 with a custom leather strap. You can still find the model, although at a higher price than other Seiko 5's, since it seems discontinued and stocks have almost dried up. Don't know if there's anything similar still in production.

Seiko 5's are alright automatics, dig around here to see if you find something.
http://www.watchsleuth.com/seiko5finder/
>>
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>>61686709
>>61686894
>>61686985
>>61687091
>>61687230
>>61687385
>>61687527
>>61687604
>>61687680
Oh is it time for the latest episode of "I troll /wt/ by advocating totally ludicrous positions until I annoy someone into wasting the time to BTFO me and then silently disappear until I do it again next thread"?
>>
>>61686748
no it is not.
>>
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>>61686976
None for those are technically dress watches, they are dressy sport watches, for the record.

In any case, I'd go for the SARX 033/035 unless you have a particular reason you really like the SDGM as the SARX has a shorter lug to lug and is this more wearable size wise.

Personally I prefer the shape the of dauphine hands and the guilloche dial in the SDGM but that's just me.
>>
>>61687759
I can't wait to find out more details about this new regulator, it sounds really promising as they claim it solves isochronism and has minimal positional variation.
>>
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>>61690488
I hear some people regret buying the Explorer 1 after the honeymoon period, some said it's too boring.
>>
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How are your collections coming?
>>
Does anyone know if star time supply will let you sign up with a home address and order shit for a while before checking if you're a real watch maker? I need to order some 6R15s
>>
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>>61690396
>>
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>>61690733
Not bad, I have a tendency to buy shitters though.

1/2
>>
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>>61690843
2/2
>>
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These are so pretty. Are there any watches with similar design but with better quality for the dollar?
>>
>>61690967
The (manual wind) club is at least their cheapest watch. $1550 isn't all that bad for what it is.
>>
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>>61690609
Maybe those people are boring after their honeymoon period. My only regret so far in picking this is that the polished bezel scratches really easily, but I guess that's pretty much any watch without a diving bezel.

36mm is a very comfy size, it's a simple legible design with no unnecessary stuff, it's a classic Rolex design but it doesn't scream ROLEX to most normies.
>>
>>61691018
Also just be aware that that particular dial type doesn't actually have lume.
>>
>>61690967
I unironically think it looks like a Timex. Flat all-printed dial and simple hands and a completely generic case with no complicated surfaces or finishing. Have you looked at the Timex Waterbury line? They're actually pretty nice and quite a deal at like $100.

>In b4 NOMOS IS HAUTE HOROLOGY
>MUH IN HOUSE
>MUH SWING SYSTEM
>MUH HAIRSPRINGS
>IT'S NOT JUST A COPIED PESEUX 7001
>>
>>61689288
When you make parts out of Si using drie you can make these with sub micron precision. There simply is no need for adjustments unless you made a hideous mistake in your construction. It is this fabrication that w\should save a lot of time and effort and also make the components far thinner. Putting adjustment screws defeats the advantages.
>>
>>61691159
It's only the constant force bit of the escapement which is silicon, so I can only guess that to compensate for the minute errors in the rest of the movement you put in an adjustable balance wheel.

Things like the genequand escapement make the GP constant force escapement kind of moot, to be honest. That escapement is still a while off from going into a production watch though.
>>
>>61691108
This, i don't get why faggots shill for HOMOS always said it bang for you bucks, the finishing is fucking generic as fuck.
>>
>>61691108
>IT'S NOT JUST A COPIED PESEUX 7001
The newer DUW movements are clean sheet designs not based on the Peseux 7001 at all.

>In b4 NOMOS IS HAUTE HOROLOGY
>MUH IN HOUSE
>MUH SWING SYSTEM
>MUH HAIRSPRINGS
All you are saying with this is that you place a value of $0 on horology and would be happier if Nomos used bone stock Peseux 7001's or ETA 2824s and lowered their prices accordingly. If that's the case then >>>/fa/ is that way.
>>
>>61690733
nice to see some other Guess shitters here
>>
>>61691159
>There simply is no need for adjustments unless you made a hideous mistake in your construction.
While you are right that they can make parts out of Si with extreme precision, I don't think that alleviates the need for rate adjustability since they probably cannot precisely model the exact rate that will be produced by each hairspring and balance wheel with enough accuracy to eliminate the need for post assembly rate adjustment.
>>
>>61690733
Reddit or /fa/?
>three hander movement
>tachymeter bezel
What did they mean by this?
>>
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Japan guy from a few days ago. I ended up deciding it wasn't worth buying the wrong Speedmaster (the "reduced" autos were within my budget but real Professionals weren't), so I ended up with this. It's a Ball Engineer II Arabic Chronometer, and I ended up paying around $1,200 after discounts and exchange rates, which is MUCH cheaper than anything I can find in the US or EU.
>>
>>61691719
Post a shot of the tritium lume.
>>
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>>61691719
And here's the really cool part. 31 tritium tubes!

So what do you guys think?
>>
>>61691719
that's a weird looking fossil
>>
>>61691744
Holy shit I don't know whether I'm in awe or disgusted.
>>
i'm a yuropoor and i'm going to buy a sarb033 on shoppinginjapan.net.
is there something i need to know?
>>
>>61691790
Seiyajapan instead
>>
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>>61687270
Just a friendly reminder that its is not just Some plastic but a self lubricating vinyl polymer. Tissot came up with it in the 70s and its been used before in eta movements.
>>
>>61691298
Why are you whining about the Peseaux 7001?
>>
>>61690843
>>61690865
Nice meme watches. Keep it up f.am
>>
>>61691769
I felt the same way when I'd seen photos of them, but in person it's not an issue, the thing exudes quality.

>>61691782
Haha fortunately the camera makes it look much more gaudy than it does IRL. The tritium is actually very faint and you can't even see it until your eyes have adjusted to the dark.
>>
>>61690967
>>61691018
FWIW Nomos (and Junghans, which I tend to put in the same category) are REALLY competitively priced here in Japan. I was sorely tempted by them when I was shopping earlier, but none of the ones I liked really suit my everyday clothes.
>>
>>61691838
is the sarb033 a meme?
>>
>>61691298
>You should be happy to pay extra because the company reinvented the wheel
In-house is a stupid meme, Nomos is not doing anything that ETA was not already doing. I want a good watch, but whether it was made in one factory or ten makes no difference to me. All of these damn watches are mass produced with as much automation as possible, there's no point fetishising about how your watch was lovingly made by hand by some master craftsman who is an expert at stamping hands and cutting gears and making springs and finishing metal and assembling all of it together. If you want that then Voutilainen or Dufour should be what you're going for, not Nomos or Rolex or Patek Philippe.

So yes, I do think that their poor supply chain decisions are not my problem and are not any reason to pay a premium. Integrating vertically is supposed to make products cheaper not more expensive.
>>
>>61691905
t. zhang chen
>>
>>61691719
I really dislike that watch aesthetically and I think it's too expensive for an ETA 2836. I would at least have gone for an all baton version.
>>
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Good morning wt
>>
>>61691905
>Dufour
Speaking of Dufour, lets hear what he has to say on the subject?

>https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/that-time-revolution-asked-roger-smith-kari-voutilainen-laurent-ferrier-and-philippe-dufour-what-watch-theyd-recommend-for-under-10000

>That Time Revolution Asked Roger Smith, Kari Voutilainen, Laurent Ferrier, And Philippe Dufour What Watch They'd Recommend For Under $10,000

>Philippe Dufour: "I would say that you could buy at this price, maybe a bit less, a very good watch in terms of value and quality. It’s not Swiss — sorry — [but] a German brand called NOMOS. I found that this brand makes a very serious product. I like these watches, and for somebody who wants to start, I think this will be a good [choice]: not too expensive and good value for money."

I guess the difference is that Dufour does not assign a value of 0 (zero) to horology, unlike yourself.
>>
>>61692047
I think it photographs badly, probably because everything is larger than life when displayed. As I said before I didn't like them in pictures either, but in person I fell in love.

I looked at a baton version but I felt like it was trying a bit too hard to be a Rolex in that guise. The Arabic version is a bit more unique.

I'll probably put a leather strap or maybe even a NATO on this once I get home, and I think that'll suit it a bit more than the bracelet as well, but I figured I'd get this version since a bracelet is much harder to get after the fact.
>>
>>61692118
Please explain the existence of companies like Nivarox and Fiedler producing only single specialty components of watches and selling them to many high end brands. And how JLC used to supply entire ebauches to all of the big three watchmakers. In-house is made up, nobody cared about that shit until recently.
>>
>>61691021
don't listen to that cuck the explorer 1 is probably the nicest rolex you can buy at the moment. The 36mm variant is the perfect size.
>>
>>61691904
yes

>>61691905

Homos makes some pretty nice watches desu senpai
>>
>>61691838
Thanks brah.
>>
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does /wt/ approve of my first watch?
>>
>>61692263
More people are becoming interested in horology rather than simply buying aesthetically pleasing pieces of wrist jewellry expected to confer certain levels of "prestige" on the wearer.
>>
>>61692056
wonderful!
>>
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>>61692468
>>
>>61691895
What do you mean by competitive exactly, what did they cost?
>>
>>61692468
Post movement pic
>>
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>>61692468
>>61692554
>>61692590
>>
>>61692564
I know Junghans had a number of models, including some auto chronos, for under $1500 and even some under a grand. I don't remember exact pricing on Nomos but I know I was surprised when I saw them. I'll take a look next time I'm near the store, it's only a station away from me and I'll probably end up over there again.
>>
>>61691905
>Nomos is not doing anything that ETA was not already doing
ETA never made Glasshütte designs.
here's a good article about the DUW3001:
http://www.watchtime.com/reviews/the-new-neo-nomos-glashutte-tangente-neomatik-reviewed/
>Strictly speaking, the double click wheel is an entire subassembly, which transforms the bidirectional motions of the rotor into unidirectional action to tighten the mainspring. This extremely efficient mechanism works with a reverse angle of merely 10 degrees. For comparison, the corresponding angle is 27 degrees in the ETA 2824 and 42 degrees in Rolex Caliber 3135.
>Despite less energy flowing from the barrel, where the moment of torque is just 670 gmm (compared to 800 gmm in the Rolex Caliber 3135 and 1,200 gmm in the ETA 2824), the optimized gear train ensures that the same amount of energy arrives at the swing system.
>As the mainspring becomes more tightly wound, the rotor moves more sluggishly, until the opposing force from the mainspring stops the rotor’s motions completely. This “rotor brake” reduces wear and lets the watch run with less noise because it prevents the rotor from continuing to turn unnecessarily after the mainspring has been fully wound.
>...
>>
>>61692263
>In-house is made up, nobody cared about that shit until recently.
can you define recently?
do you have some old watch magazines to prove your hypothesis?
>>
>>61692263
Two reasons:
1) in the past, mechanical watches were all you could buy, and expensive watches weren't so much luxury as they were simply more accurate, so people didn't really care where the movement came from so long as it worked.
2) until recently, a lot of people who bought luxury watches didn't know much about the technical side of things; they only cared about looks, brand, and price.
>>
What's the oldest watch you own?
>>
>>61692777
60s slav shit
>>
>>61692769
bullshit.
grand complications were a thing long before the quartz crisis.
>>
>>61692769
>2) until recently, a lot of people who bought luxury watches didn't know much about the technical side of things; they only cared about looks, brand, and price.
To add to that: the internet has helped change this; people now have access to a wealth of information and as a result the demand for greater technical merit has grown.
>>
>>61692811
How does that negate anything I said?
>>
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>>61692777
1880s family pocket watch
>>
>>61692849
>expensive watches weren't so much luxury as they were simply more accurate
>>
>>61692898
I was obviously not talking about all expensive watches. Hence the words "not so much". Autist.
>>
>>61692620
Oh man that's beautiful
>>
>>61692649
Alright neat. Buy me one if they're cheap enough please.
>>
>>61692948
basically no luxury watch brand cared much about accuracy.
look up the history of Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Patek Philippe.

not that other brands cared much about accuracy
iirc Omega is the only one that competed in the chronometer competitions every year
the most important criteria for a dress watch was prolly its thinness.
>>
>>61692769
>people didn't really care where the movement came from so long as it worked.
>didn't know much about the technical side of things; they only cared about looks, brand, and price.
that's a contradiction:
either they still care about the brand (i.e. in-house movement) or go by technical merits (i.e. doesn't matter where it comes from)
>>
>>61693122
You're talking about the competitions. The movements entered in those were the equivalent of formula 1 cars.

Hundreds of thousands of watches were certified each year at one of the many institutions that existed before quartz, and chronometer standards at the time were much more stringent than today's COSC.

>>61693402
Tons of people care about the brand but don't give a shit about in-house movements.
>>
>>61693587
It’s sometimes mistakenly implied that the 2892-A2 is a significantly newer design than the 2824, both trace their roots far back. The 2892 from Eterna and the 2824 from back when ETA used to be part of Eterna.
At top levels, both can be made equally accurate
>>
>>61693701
>It’s sometimes mistakenly implied that the 2892-A2 is a significantly newer design than the 2824
Who implies such a thing? The 2892-A2 is not newer than the 2824-2, it's simply better in every technical respect and has much better inherent accuracy than the 2824-2.
>>
>>61693743
>At top levels, both can be made equally accurate
>>
>>61692056
very cool!
i've been thinking about getting one.
will you comment on yours?
>>
>>61693776
That's simply not true. While both can be made to pass COSC testing, the 2892-A2 tends to have quite a bit less positional variance than the 2824-2, making it typically capable of tighter regulation than most 2824-2's of a similar grade.

>https://musingsofawatchaddict.wordpress.com/2015/01/17/king-seiko-reissue-scvn001-grammar-of-design/

>Both ETA 2892 and Seiko 4S were not made to be, but rather, born chronometers.

Another useful analysis is from here:

>http://www.chronometrie.com/eta2892/eta2892.html

Now, I happen to disagree with his conclusion that the ETA 2892-A2 is the equal of the Rolex 3135, but that's not relevant to why the 2892-A2 is generally regarded as having better inherent accuracy than the 2824-2.
>>
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>>61692056
WHAT OCCURRED HERE
>>
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>>61693791
It's very cool. They're a huge pain to service so keep that in mind. Mine runs off about 4spd which isn't great (my other hummers do much better), but isn't too bad either. I love the lugs, too.
>>
>>61693701
Pretty sure you misquoted.
>>
>>61690358
It is fairly nice but why no day window?

It is as if the target audience are men who do not work for a living, The ultimate status symbol?

Also that 311 remains heinous.
>>
>>61693879
The plating on the lug has gotten slightly pitted over the last forty years?
>>
>>61693587
>Hundreds of thousands of watches were certified each year at one of the many institutions that existed before quartz
bullshit.
before COSC, Bureaux officiels de contrôle de la marche des montres (B.O.) issued collective certificates, not individual ones.

>chronometer standards at the time were much more stringent than today's COSC
bullshit
B.O. standards were only arguably higher in 1961–73 if you go by daily rate.


you also do realize that mechanical movement technology was frozen in time by Swiss law between 1934-1966.
there's not much incentive to improve significantly as lower-tier brands such as Oris were stuck with push-lever.
>>
>>61693877
your analyses are from a blog, and from a hack.

if you can tell me why, in your own words -- in YOUR own opinion (not some bloggers, and not some hack's), why you disagree, I'd be happy to entertain your thesis.
>>
>>61693927
you could have it polished, my heavens, what material is it? are you just going to let it corrode to DUST?
>>
>>61693900
where'd you get it?
any advice on purchasing one?
curious about the cost too, if you don't mind sharing
>>
>>61693913
are you seriously suggesting a day-date complication for a dresser?
>>
>>61693877
http://www.asthewatchturns.com/?p=81

High Horological Drama

I suggest you read it.
>>
>>61693877
for example, my Tudor has a highly modified ETA, I don't know what the fuck ETA it is, but it's insanely accurate. it's modified "to the point that's virtually not even an ETA anymore".
>>
What does /wt/ think of certina?

Is the shitter in pic related worth 500$?
>>
>>61694189
great brand. and yes @ 500.

they have fucky date windows, like many longines
>>
>>61694034
No, I'm not going to polish a vintage, gold-plated watch, that's a horrible idea. I suppose if it ever got really, really bad, I might have all the plating stripped off, but that's a long ways away from where it is now.

>>61694035
It was a gift, but I'm sure it came from eBay. When buying an old spaceview, first decide if you care whether yours is a "conversion" or an original spaceview. Mine is likely a factory conversion, which suits me fine - the history behind why there are conversions makes it an interesting piece in itself. If you want an original spaceview, be prepared to do a LOT of research to not get scammed. Assuming you don't, it's just like buying any other vintage watch. Look for reputable sellers, inspect the pictures for water damage or any electrical bits that look corroded or burned, etc. I would expect a conversion in decent shape to be had for around 300 or less USD.

Happy to answer anything else if it would be helpful.
>>
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>>61694340
By the way, do consider other tuning fork watches as well - the Accutron 214 is a marvelous watch but it is definitely a first-generation tuning fork watch. There's a beautiful blue dial longines 6312 on eBay right now, for example, with the second-generation ESA 9162 movement, which is much more robust, has better positional variance properties, and is more shock resistant. My ESA 9162 pictured.
>>
>>61693946
>before COSC, Bureaux officiels de contrôle de la marche des montres (B.O.) issued collective certificates, not individual ones.
>B.O. standards were only arguably higher in 1961–73 if you go by daily rate.

Lmao, I found the exact wikipedia paragraph you got all of this from in like 5 seconds, and none of it contradicts what I said.
>>
>>61694008
>if you can tell me why, in your own words -- in YOUR own opinion (not some bloggers, and not some hack's), why you disagree, I'd be happy to entertain your thesis.

Just as an example, a watch can pass COSC chronometer testing running +5 SPD dial up and -3 SPD crown down and still pass, but that doesn't account for the fact that the movement with the lowest average spread between the different positions will be easier to adjust and regulate to closer to +0 SPD in all positions.

I believe that higher grade 2892-A2's have less of an inherent tendency towards positional variation and isochronism than higher grade eta 2824-2's do, and this makes them easier to adjust and regulate to tighter accuracy levels than the ETA 2824-2. In particular, since they tend to require less laborious adjustment at the factory they are much less likely to just barely pass the accuracy standard than the 2824-2 and will be easier for the owner to regulate themselves to optimize the worn accuracy. As far as I'm aware I didn't think this view was particularly controversial.


>>61694139
I read that page and it doesn't cover the point I make above. The 2892-A2 tends to less positional variance and isochronism and therefore is easier to adjust and regulate. That both, with the requisite amount of effort, can be made to pass COSC certification doesn't change that it is generally easier with the 2892-A2.

>>61694166
Tudor virtually totally rebuilds their 2824s and so they aren't really comparable to any of the 2824's produced by ETA. They also spend a lot of labor (comparatively) on adjustment and regulation than most companies using ETA movements.
>>
>>61691824
They used these shitty gears in the odometer on my fucking car. They don't hold up. I was removing them and the slimy bastards were falling apart like cheese or something in my fingers. I'd guess the heat did it, but regardless everyone replaces them with nylon
>>
>>61690733
>>61690843
> shitters everywhere
I'm fairly certain the boxes are worth more than the contents.
>>
>>61694901
I have one thats nearly 40 years old and still keeps time within 20s/d.
>>
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So I was looking into the Seiko SKX007K2 and I really fell in love with it.
However both my arm and wrist are more on the thicker and bulkier side so I was wondering if I could wear it without making a fool out of myself.
I will most likely buy a different, I guess thicker, band but I don't know yet exactly.
What do you think? ( if you can judge it from the picture )
>>
>>61695413
Friend... absolutely. In fact I think it would look stunning on your wrist, to be sure.
>>
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I'd like to share a couple of my watches today

This just came in (again). It's a Sinn 104, the finish is superb. I sold one months ago, and have regretted it since. So naturally I purchased another.
>https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-value-proposition-sinn-104-st-sa
I realize many hold disdain for hodinkee, but there are some good points in the article.
>>
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>>61695510
And my Black Bay Blue, sharing the same 41mm diameter as the 104. Always a charm to me, to wear.
>>
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>>61695510
excellent watch

>>61695543
breddy gud, how accurate is it?
>>
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Got a new shell cordovan strap for my blue sunburst LM Special. Fluco is a really good value for these straps.
>>
>>61695510
>>61695543
You have some great watches. Are you the faggy tattoo anon?
>>
>>61695453
Thank you! Guess I'll order it soon.
Is it safe to order from amazon?
It's really convenient cause they're pretty chill with return policy
>>
>>61695413
What is your wrist circumference in inches?
>>
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>>61695615
Thank you, and the BB is +3 seconds per day.

I'm thinking about trying the BB on fabric, pic related (but borrowed). What do you think?
>>
>>61695669
Definitely a good buy. If you get it off Amazon, you can send it back and get another if there are QC issues, which SKXs are known for.
>>
>>61695661
I'm not sure, I hope not. But thanks!
>>
>>61695669
Truly, it'll look great on you. I think you'll be thoroughly impressed.
>>
>>61695783
I bet you could get away with a 36mm watch, certainly a 38mm-and-up.
>>
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>>61695699
Sadly I never measured it.
I used to wear a Fossil which was I guess 46mm.
Besides the obvious brand related flaws in terms of size it was pretty alright.
But it's mainly you guys that convinced me to ditch it.
But I'm glad you made me inform myself more!
>>
>>61695837
Sorry for the double post. Using 4chan on the phone is a pain in the butt
>>
>>61695831
>>61695789
>>61695738
Thanks for your advice! Glad I can happily order it now.
Love you guys
>>
>>61695894
enjoy it bro, please post pictures when it arrives :D
>>
>>61695640
I love shell cordovan, I bought a shell cordovan strap for a little Hamilton I own, it's been fantastic.

Those Flucos are a great deal. You must have medium-sized wrists, mine're 8", none of the Fluco cordovans fit me.
>>
>>61695640
and shell cordovan aside, I have you to blame for my current Speedy obsession. Really I do delight everytime I see your MkII.

-Tattoo Fag
>>
>>61696141
Toronto anon has a lot of blame to shoulder. I've got a 5256 incoming I blame on him.
>>
>>61695965
I have 7.5" wrists so the strap only just fits, I'm on the second last hole.

>>61696141
You're welcome. To be honest I like the moonwatch better aesthetically, but I'm not comfortable spending what it would take to get a moonwatch cased Lemania 5100 Speedy (aka "The Holy Grail").

>>61696185
You're also welcome. Which case/dial variant specifically? Got any pics of it from the listing?
>>
>>61696185
ha quite so! cheers on your incoming, I'll be excited to see pics.
>>
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>>61686627

Thoughts on the sarx045?
>>
>>61696258
I'm glad you were able to make the Fluco work, I really wish I could have.

Per your Moonwatch-cased Lemania 5100, that sounds genius, I went through the history and assumed that the MkII's only received the Lemania 5100's? I can only imagine the Moonwatch-cased Lemania 5100s are Rolex-tier pricing.
>>
>>61696258
Trying out Yahoo jp for the first time, bought this and >>61686712
>>
>>61695003
>> shitters everywhere
>I'm fairly certain the boxes are worth more than the contents.
Doubt it, they're cheap fake leather boxes from Amazon.
>>
>>61696404
Wow, that 5256-8010 is in great condition. I hope you enjoy it! Later when I'm home I'll try and dig up the story on how "special" the KS Specials really were for you, if you're not already familiar with it from me posting it before.
>>
>>61696496
Would definitely be happy to read it again. Depending on how it performs on the timegrapher I may send it to Shane so you may have a chance to see it in person. Looks like some damage on the bezel around twelve o'clock but hard to see for sure from the pictures.
>>
>>61691719
How are Ball's watches? They've caught my eye. American owned company based in Sweden.
>>
>>61696695
You pay a very high premium for the tritium compared to other watches with similar movement and finishing quality. If you want a tritium watch that's not a huge diver though, they're among your only options.
>>
>>61696185
Toronto anon made me buy a Lord Marvel the fucker.


Great purchase though. Find it funny some random guy on this autistic forum single handedly sparked my interest in vintage Seikos from constantly posting theirs. Also the fact they probably only live like 45 minutes away from me is pretty odd.
>>
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>>61696924
The hive mind is strong. I can't believe I got somebody else to buy an 8m25
>>
>>61696924
My parents are considering moving to Southern Ontario. If they do, I'll likely end up visiting them more often and getting deeper into vintage Seikos.
>>
>>61696924
That Lord Marvel was in amazing shape, too. Great find.

I just enjoy sharing what I learned when I was researching vintage Seikos before I bought any. They are still some of the absolute best values you can get on the vintage market. As much as I want an Omega with a 56x/75x, you can't even look at one for less than $500-$750 these days usually, meanwhile you can get KS Specials and Lord Marvels for $250 or less in really good condition.

>>61696977
I'd buy one of those 5s21s if there was a case style I really liked.
>>
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>>61696339
sexy
>>
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Which one fellas?
>>
>>61691744
Effective but garish. It would have been better to avoid blue.

Someone posted a watch picture where the crown was lumed. That was an excellent idea that should have been used here too.
>>
>>61697408
both look dumb to me, buy a pobeda
>>
>>61691421
Others have been able to dispense with these.

When you can etch the parts with sub micron precision it is hard to see why you would need adjustment screws.


Reminder: the MEMs Primer: https://pastebin.com/Xk2BnKtf
>>
Hey guys, I had been thinking about buying some tupperware, but when I found a great deal on this I just couldn't pass it up. The sunburst looks amazing in person. Shame I couldn't find a tritium version though.
>>
>>61697408
Scuba dude
>>
So what are all my options for non-shit one handed watches?
>>
>>61697981
Luch is cheap but okay for the price.
Meistersinger is good but very expensive.
>>
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>>61697981
>>
>>61698077
Meistersinger is also a completely different concept, right? Aren't they the 6-hour ones?
>>
>>61698077
>Meistersinger is good but very expensive.

Are they? I thought they were cheaper than usual for the build quallity because they were 1 hand.
>>
>>61698095
Fucking beautiful piece right there. Do you collect Anon?
>>
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Why do you guys care so much about something (telling you the time) that literally a toaster can do? No offense because there is probably something about this whole watch thing i dont understand, but to me it just seems like nerd bling bling shit. My phone, my fitbit and basically any other device, like the laptop I'm on can do the basic task of telling me the time.
>>
>>61695722
works for me desu
>>
>>61698204
Owning a luxury watch isnt about telling the time. Its about owning a piece of hand made history that you can pass down to your children. Also, it without a doubt creates a status symbol but the majority of those interested in high horology already have more then enough in their lives to be used as symbols of status.
>>
>>61698204
Telling the time is pretty low down the list of reasons why to own a high end mechanical watch.
>>
can you get a decent vintage seiko quartz for say $100?
>>
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>>61698204
>>
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>>61698250
Why do you want to pass a watch down to your children? sounds like a jewish trick you fell for desu. I'd rather pass down a fat estate with a steady source of income.

I know im gonna get labeled a troll for questioning the reason for wristwatches because im sure many people before me probably have, many of whom were legit trolls im sure. But I really don't see the reason why.

If it's the mechanical side, then I can see a case, but why just wrist watches and not other mechanical devices such as cookoo clocks?
>>
should I bite the bullet and get an alpinist? I've got the money, but I'm just not sure when I'd wear it; I dress pretty shitty most of the time, and wear digital shitters to match.
>>
>>61698204
this is some top tier bait
>>
>>61697744
>sunburst
That's just brushed. Otherwise very nice.
>>
>>61698250
>Its about owning a piece of hand made history that you can pass down to your children.
is that really common?

first vintage wristwatch auction was only in 1979.
servicing a watch for decades seems questionable (no more spare parts)
chronograph's vertical clutch is basically unserviceable
keeping them in pristine condition is almost impossible
precious metals don't age well at all (too soft)
polished stainless steel does not much better
ceramic is very recent
dials get dirty, change color
...
>>
>>61698417
If by "dress petty shitty" you mean New Balance 609s and straight/boot cut Lee/Wranglers, then spend the $400 on some clothes.
>>
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>>61698417
Alpinist is a great one watch collection watch. It doesn't make sense in any situation, which is why it works all the time.

If you get it, you probably shouldn't buy any more watches.
>>
>>61698522
better get a grand seiko
>>
>>61698559
Hngg, ref on this model?
>>
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>>61686627
>>
>>61698585
6146-8050
>>
>>61698559
>that crystal
>those hands
>lugs

JUST
>>
>>61698113
>>61698136
No meister singer is a standard 12 hour. And no they're not cheap at all they're way too expensive for what they are
>>
>>61697408
SCUBA
>>
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>>61698504
Yeah, owning vintage watches is totally impractical, especially chronographs :^)
>>
>>61698752
Ah, I didn't know they made 12-hour ones. I had only seen the Soprana and Rodella before.
>>
>>61698144
It's water marked dude
>>
>>61698771
that one doesn't have a vertical clutch, does it?
>>
>>61698992
The Mark 4.5 Speedmaster has Omega's caliber 1045, which is the Lemania 5100 which has a vertical clutch, even though it is cam actuated.

Here's a little suggested reading on the movement if you're interested: http://chronomaddox.com/nouvelle_lemania_5100.html
>>
Post your grails!
>>
>>61698504
>dials change color
Thanks to watch bloggers constantly jerking off to patina, this could be seen as a positive in terms of watch value over time.

Also on the precious metals thing, while they are soft, some of them are much more resistant to processes such as corrosion.
>>
>>61699261
>Also on the precious metals thing, while they are soft, some of them are much more resistant to processes such as corrosion.

Exactly why rolex uses gold for the hands.
>>
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>>61699176
Also the snow frake.
>>
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Hey /fa/ do you rikeu my new watch? Also what 18mm strap would go well with this? Pls respond btw my shitters never get any (you)s and I'm ronery :((
>>
>>61690396
snk123
>>
>>61697408
Neither. Get the blue scuba dude
>>
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>>61699176

>>61699365
Man I wish the snowfrake was 38mm.
>>
>>61699475
Leather Nato

stop talking like a gook
>>
>>61699710
>Man I wish the snowfrake was 38mm.

Would be nice. There is the SBGA089 which is 39mm, white gold case though.
>>
>>61699710
love. grail.

although maybe white for me. or blue.
>>
>>61686712
Cosmotrons are not quartz in the slightest.
>>
>>61697394
>>61696339
The crown is hideous, why didn't they use the one on the 013 and 015?
>>
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>>61686627
What does /wt/ think of the SNAA30?
>>
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>>61700120
>>
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SBGW031

HAI.
>>
>>61699176
>>
>>61700120
Nasty.
>>
>>61700097
Ugh, true, my bad. Confused them with the luch.
>>
>>61698413
If you think your kids will ever inherit shit from your estate by the time the hospital and the insurance company and your shithead stepchildren and everyone else is done picking through it then you don't know shit about Jewish tricks.

>>61698504
I have three watches handed down to me and they're all easily, if not cheaply, serviceable and in good cosmetic condition too. And precious metals don't age, that's sort of the whole point.

I'm not advocating watches are any sort of smart investment or any of that bullshit people spew but they're at least a nice sentimental heirloom.
>>
>>61690358
It's not as nice in person as it is in high res pics online.
The moonphase itself looks kinda cheap to the naked eye.
Unfortunate.
>>
>>61699111
5100 is the shit.. cheap rugged reliable and accurate. swatch cucks threw it away.
>>
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>>61700314
>>
>>61700745
>swatch cucks threw it away.
Threw it away for the piece of shit horizontal clutch 7750, no less, because the thought of not wringing every possible penny from the customer was simply unbearable to them and so they simply couldn't stomach the thought of continuing to make a small annual volume of one of the greatest automatic chronograph movement designs of all time because it would be slightly less profitable than chucking more 7750's at people.
>>
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Does anyone know how water resistant these are?
>>
>>61700903
Gee, I wonder.
>>
>>61700893
its strange because the 7750 is far more expensive to produce and i have no idea why they made it their major chronograph model to begin with. You ever see one stutter when you start a chrono? it makes me shudder every single time.
>>
>>61700913
I know it says 100m and ive seen the chart i was just wondering if anyone had experience with seiko's 100m watches and how well they actually work in pools and shit like that.. also just generally want to know if anyone has owned one of these or if they are worth getting. I did phrase it in a pretty stupid way though.
>>
>>61700941
It should be fine in a pool. That being said, if you were looking for a watch at that price, the SKX007 is head and shoulders above that, while actually being an ISO certified diver's watch.
>>
>>61700962
Yeah i know the case is better and it looks a bit better and the lume is probably better but i like this bezel and the movement in this is better and it is cheaper when available. Ill probably just go with the skx013 when it comes down to it... or maybe ill get another amphibia..
>>
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>>61699176
>>
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>>61699475
I'm going to put mine on leather minimal stich
>>
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Post your grails
>>
>>61700177
>SBGW031
Abe have good taste.
>>
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>>61699176
>>
>>61701112
I love that the Germans make watches in the correct size.
>>
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I think it's settling in now.

This is what I'm getting consistently:

4+ SPD dial up.
0+ SPD crown up.
2+ SPD crown down.
3+ SPD dial down.
>>
File: LRM_EXPORT_20170420_141630.jpg (4MB, 3124x3124px) Image search: [Google]
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>>61696676
I compiled a Pastebin for you based on all the bits of info I had to piece together when I was looking into this stuff:

https://pastebin.com/PzQ5NMnr

The short version of the story is that Daini Seikosha was already aware that high-end production watch production at Seiko would soon be switching to quartz at the time they were designing the 52xx series movement. Since they knew this would be their last kick at the can in designing a mechanical movement, they treated it as an opportunity to create a design that would be a statement to posterity of what Daini Seikosha was capable of, and they decided to adjust and regulate them to a much higher standard than they were theoretically supposed to based on Seiko's internal brand hierarchy (i.e. to well beyond normal Grand Seiko levels). There was a particular drive to to really make those "Special" King Seikos really special because the quartz wristwatch was a Suwa Seikosha initiative and its adoption for high end production watches at Seiko was treated as a sort of...slight by the staff at Daini Seikosha, as had been the decision to make Grand Seiko (branding developed by Suwa Seikosha) the top brand rather than King Seiko (which had been developed by Daini).

The end result is that the 52xx King Seiko Specials, and especially the 5256's made in the last 6 months of high-end mechanical watch production at Daini verge on being stealth VFAs (the highest accuracy standard Grand Seikos were ever adjusted to)
>>
>>61695640
where's your wrist bone?

>>61701112
THEIR WEBSITE IS SUCH A FUCKING PIECE OF SHIT. TAKES FIVE MINUTES TO SCROLL THROUGH THE SHITTY JAVASCRIPT SMOOTH SCROLLING JUST TO FIND THE DIAMETER.
>>
>>61697457
>When you can etch the parts with sub micron precision it is hard to see why you would need adjustment screws.
Do you have some links to any watchmaker that managed to totally dispense with them? I'm genuinely curious.

I still don't quite understand how they could predict with enough accuracy the natural rate each hairspring and balance wheel combination would generate, nor how you could account for balancing isochronism from full wind to half wind, nor how you could compensate for the gradual loss of amplitude that typically occurs between services?
>>
>>61701255
He is a porker.
>>
>>61701242
>DAINI SEIKOSHA
But I do appreciate your autistic dedication, fat Canadian.
>>
>>61701255
First time seeing an americanfat's wrist?
>>
>>61701185
nice finish, is the silicone strap pliable? what movement is it? that must be the blue, as there's no bracelet (I preferred the blue of the two).
>>
>>61701185
lug-to-lug my man?
>>
>>61695640
Thanks for making me feel better about my thiccness.
>>
>>61701185
I bought a Tuna rubber strap for my SKX but it's way too long and I'm not really fan. Those waffle rubber ones look pretty nice and less bulky, are there any good third party ones available?
>>
>>61701255
>>61701273
>He is a porker.
While this is true, in the case of that picture it's also hidden by the bright light right on my wrist bone. It doesn't help that I usually wear my watches to the immediate left of the wristbone so it's often hidden by the strap or bracelet when I take a picture with my phone camera (which I typically angle to minimise reflections off the crystal).

>>61701294
Fat Canadian, thank you very much.

>>61701283
It couldn't be helped. There is no way to tell the story of the 52KS Special without mentioning it repeatedly, and he literally bought one.
>>
>>61701360
>Fat Canadian
what's the difference again?
>>
>>61701185
I really like that thing buts its too fucking expensive.
>>
>>61701372
Too much poutine and syrup instead of burgers and soda.
>>
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>>61701273
>>61701294
he's canadian, not american, this is an american wrist, you can see everything as God intended
>>
File: snek.jpg (31KB, 728x486px) Image search: [Google]
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>>61701410
"When threatened, the autist flattens it's wrist"
>>
>>61701410
well the photo looks like shit on non-mobile
>>
>>61701410
Mirin your vascularity anon.
>>
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>>61701445
I hope that gap isn't where you put your watch
>>
>>61701410
>>61701445
We doing this now?
>>
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>>61701538
wait i fucked up
>>
>>61701480
No worries anon, pic related.

>>61701538
It is the logical complement to the current wristshot database.
>>
>>61701480
Close to the wristbone, but not on or past it, is objectively the best way to wear a watch. Any farther or back can make a watch look goofy.
>>
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>>61701427
nice, i kek'ed
>>
>>61701480
>Elder money
>Wearing watches on one's arm
What did he mean to convey with this combination of text and image?
>>
>>61701480
I strongly feel there should be a better example of "elder money".
>>
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>>61701480
>>61701576


i gotcha senpai
>>
>>61701662
what the h*ck is that?
>>
>>61701662
The absolute madman.
>>
>>61701662
(o///<////o)
>>
>>61701242
Thanks for the pastebin friend. I suppose I'll pay it back to wt by making one on tuning forks sometime.
>>
>>61701334

Movement is 8L35b. The strap is very pliable and thick. It's a bit long though.
>>
>>61701359

Yes, look at the Model "300-D" from Bonetto Cinturini as an alternative.
>>
>>61701343

Will measure it in a bit.
>>
>>61701883
>>61701883
>>61701883
>>61701883
>>61701883
>>
>>61701185
>setting in
What is this meme
>>
>>61702392
Fancy way to say "breaking in". A lot of mechanical stuff doesn't actually perform 100% out of the box, and needs to run for a little to smooth out the edges.
Guns come to mind, where firing during the break in period smooths out potentials burrs in the machining.
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