Starting this back up since yesterday's bread got moldy.
Yesterday you guy's said my PC build was looking pretty good, but I have one last question:
I see an i5 4690k listed with (OEM/Tray) on it. I looked it up and OEM means it wont come with a heatsink, will this be a problem if I'm getting a custom cpu cooler?
I'm building a new computer for VR.
Is there anything I should change here? How much money would I save by waiting until March to buy it?
I know in the past h motherboards made sense with non k cpu. But with skylake blck oc and higher speed ram showing improved fps in more cpu bound games. Is it still a good idea to buy a h170 instead of a z170 with a i5 6500?
any more money you spend for gayming youre better off going to /v/
Would I be better off with this build? Will there be a significant price reduction by April?
Still trying to decide between AMD and Intel, among other things. Also, is the GeForce 700 series still viable?
Depends what you're using it for.
380 is like 960 but good.
If you don't need muh very high quality 1080p 2015 gayms you can get away with a 950 or even 750ti. Other than that I'd go for the Intel + 380 one.
If you go for the AMD one get a lower wattage PSU, 850W is way too much for your needs.
Other than the meme keyboard and the horrible case looks great.
Do you even google? Thermal paste is a highly heat conductive compound that allows to transfer heat between your CPU and your heatsink in an efficient way.
If you get a stock cooler you don't need to buy it, although you may want to replace it some time (like 2 years).
If you get an aftermarket cooler, chances are it comes with a thermal paste tube (the Hyper 212 EVO does); you should check nevertheless to avoid surprises.
going from pre-built to self-assembled, yes they're that bad, assemble your own so you actually know the interior of your of computer
Why are they bad? I have no idea how to build one. And it seems like a good deal. Here's the pre-built I want to get.
If you're open to spending a few bucks more, your 128 GB SSD is a little small, though big enough to work. Once you have your OS + a few programs + 2 or 3 modern titles it will be close to full, and you'll have to move games back and forth between the SSD and HDD.
Well let's see.
Overkill unlocked i7 with a h110 mobo.
Unknown SSD and HDD
Here you go:
Cheaper, better and safer. Edit as you like if you can spare more/less money, I stuck to skylake but it's not really mandatory.
Then get someone to assemble it for you for $100.
Honestly it's piss easy to assemble one, just watch a video and go for it.
It's FUN and really hard to fuck up, like you have to be drunk or something. Also you'll be somewhat proud of yourself when you finish.
Sincerely why are normies so scared of this shit? It's not fucking nitroglicerine. Don't you want to LEARN?
you don't know who made the RAM, is it some cheap chinese shit?
who made the HDD?
cheap case that's going to be audibly noisy as fuck when CPU is under load, there's no sound dampening in that case at all
and then there's the problem with Skylake and CPU coolers, where there is a risk of bent CPU when transporting it
also, noisy stock coolers
locked down BIOS, you run into BSOD and you're gonna have an annoying time troubleshooting
look at pic related, near equivalent price
CPU looks overkill if you're only gaming on it, so does ram. It's fine.
>i7 and a 380
while it makes a good point on how prebuilts are shit, the build itself is horrible.
>Sincerely why are normies so scared of this shit?
Because it's expensive and they treat it like a toy. You forget normies tend to be concerned about money yet still act retarded when it comes to wanting something.
You assemble your own PC so the money you save on labor can go into another part, and so you can handpick quality components
Get Alienware if you can't assemble by yourself but still want to pretend you know what parts you're talking about
No confidence in Seagate. Got a Maxtor, Plextor, Toshiba, Hitachi, WD, and Seagate here. Guess which one crapped out first? I would have thought the Maxtor since it's ancient shit but it still works.
Ignore this /v/eddit user, he probably thinks more cores=more fps.
Good budget build, check out your mobo bios you may have to flash it to OC:
great, you may squeeze an additional 0.3 GHz at 1.2V but it's not going to make a big difference.
I built a similar PC for my cousin and he couldn't be happier. G3258s are truly a blessing for the budget builder.
Build for my girlfriend, light gaming. Recycling my two 560tis
how's it look? trying to keep it under $400, have all the other components I need.
1080p gaming is what I'm aiming for, though I don't have much in the way of games (yet). I want this to be general purpose that just happens to do better in the FPS department then what I have now. As for the PSU, I might change that. According to another site, EVGA supposedly makes lower end units. I just wanted a higher wattage for future proofing. And I didn't want to take any chances. Isn't the general idea is to get at least 100w more then what your PC is expected to use?
Also, this is the site...
Now then, how does one trick Windows 7 into being genuine? Rather not drop $140+ unless I have no other choice.
Finally, neither list is done. Missing a monitor, which'll most likely breach the projected $800 budget. And then there's the mouse, keyboard, and speakers...
Looking into a new build.
I already had SSDs and HDDs and a nice Air 540 case. Looking to upgrade mobo/cpu and gpu to go to 2k gaming.
Anything I should change?
yeah, 100w more, not 400w like in the AMD build. Unless you plan to SLI/CF and stuff get a smaller one.
Seriously how come you can assemble a PC and don't know how to pirate windows:
This shit should be in the OP already.
Your i3 list has a monitor.
you don't need a z97 for a locked CPU, let alone an ASSrock. Get "your girlfriend" a h81/b85/h97 mobo.
650W is way too much for that build. 500 should be more than enough. Used the saved money for a 120GB SSD and call it a day, "she" will be happy.
Also stop counting in rebates, it's a bad meme.
Solid meme build all around my friend, needs an exxxtreme mobo though.
I'm very new at building. One of those two lists will be my first rig. If pirating Windows AND making it genuine is simple, I might not need an optical drive...actually, yes I do. If I start getting games I'd like them in physical form, if possible.
Also, I know of the discrepancy between the lists. I'm mulling over whether or not to ditch the monitor on account of my TV having an HDMI port. I'm just not comfortable with using a PC on a screen that big. Well, it looks big. According to the ruler its about 22'', which is odd. Either I should settle for a smaller monitor or the ruler's wrong somehow.
Anyways, I just need to make sure if the i3 is the right choice for my projected budget. Same goes for the motherboard. The current computer right now has an i5 but with no graphics card that might not be worth much.
How does this look?
I'm not interested in buying a graphics card. Or at least not at this time.
Someone please explain this stuff to me. I'm a tech noob but I'm doing my best trying to learn and understand.
How is AMD A10-7300 worse than i5-2410M?
The AMD is 3,2ghz quad core while the i5 is 2,9ghz dual?
This is my current build plan I was going to borrow my roommates 660ti to wait and see if Pascal is worth waiting for.
How did I do? just going off other builds in the same case and reviews etc. Aussie funbux $$ btw
Don't buy a 6600k unless you're going to OC, in which case you need a Z170 chipset mobo. Otherwise pretty standard / cookie cutter, but good.
Not a bad plan. 660ti should hold you over just fine until pascal. Pretty good otherwise, no complaints.
APU's are shit in CPU related tasks compared to dedicated CPU's. GHz is just a measure of frequency, not how much data can be processed in a single cycle.
You don't need an 80+ Platinum PSU, just save some money and settle on an 80+ gold.
Give her the SSD. Only other recommendation is to not get an EVGA NEX, only G2/P2.
Why do you need an i7?
Why are you pairing a mid tier GPU with a top tier CPU?
Also don't get an EVGA NEX PSU, Supernova G2/P2 only.
Why do you need an i7?
Why do you need an 850w PSU?
Otherwise its fine.
Pretty ok for entry level gaymen, though if you can find one for the same price or within $10 I would get a 270x over a 750ti
Better get a Z170 chipset if you're getting a 6600k, otherwise you have no point in getting that CPU as its for OC'ing.
>Don't buy a 6600k unless you're going to OC, in which case you need a Z170 chipset mobo. Otherwise pretty standard / cookie cutter, but good.
Any mini-itx boards good for overclocking that arent gonna cost me a fortune? Or should I just go for the non K version?
Unless you just want a petite build and thats of major importance to you, just go mATX. Less expensive in all ways. The price discrepancy of a k and non k is negligible at best, as the performance gain you can get from the k is far better.
General purpose machine
Should I change the CPU?
what kind of faggot am I if I paid an additional 45 bux to my online store so they build the PC for me?
I'd rather learn by taking existing things apart than by building things from scratch
Not asking for tips or approval, already have all these parts
Got a lot on sale so what's shown for price isn't accurate
At least I bought this when our dollar wasn't literal aids. Exception is a few recent upgrade parts such as card monitor the evo
R8 I guess, and bash me for having an expensive build I suppose
4770k is more expensive than the 4790k right now
They just increase the price since I don't believe they make it anymore and charge a premium. Regardless yea bretty pricey
Also got the monitor this black Friday for 450, that was a bretty gud. And the basis for getting a 980 ti
Jk it isn't even taking price of the 4770k. Which you can still get off Newegg last I checked
Tldr even more expensive in total since some of the items aren't showing their price
Judge my build you fucking neckbeards
If you wanna clock that baby get the noctua d15
I've seen cases where people run it stable at 4.8 ghz
You're already gettin expensive parts so might as well not cheap out
If you want to cheap out just get the 212 evo
That's the eventual plan.
4.8 would be pretty nice so it's worth considering, would you happen to know if there is a large difference between the D15 and D15?
Just need to select a PSU and I'm mostly good to go.
As far as I'm aware the dh 15 has literally the absolute same performance as the dh 15
Glad I could help
All srsns look up Linus review on the dh15 he compares it to the 14 model
It has some noticeable improvements
>2 TB WD hdd
>120 gb Seagate ssd
> gtx970 4gb
>off brand redcherry keyboard w/mouse
Trying to put together something that'll last me a little while here. Currently running on a ~1100$USD budget which this falls just under. Considering I'm starting from scratch, does that seem an appropriate price or am I scamming myself?
I'm poor as hell and looking for a good cheap case to get started with my first build. Cooler Master? Thermaltake? someone
How do I make this better?
It's also about a 1000 dollars cheaper than I originally planned and missing a power supply. It's gonna be for gaming and that's about it.
I'd go with an AMD APU for MATLAB, but only if you're able to take advantage of OpenGL to skip the need of having a discreet graphics card. By itself, the AMD APU isn't up to par with four-core Hawells when it comes to MATLAB, the similarly priced i3 is not up to par with a proper four-core CPU in MATLAB. With MATLAB, stronger cores do make for better overall performance, so if you are willing to skip a discreet graphics card, buy a locked i5 (preferably the i5-6500) on an H110 micro-ATX board
If you want a quiet build that could still fit a graphics card into the budget, I'd go with the A10-7800 on a A78X motherboard and pair it with a 750 Ti or a 950. Skip the loud heatsink and buy an aftermarket air cooler with at least 8 heat-pipes (aka - four bent in a U) and can fit a fan larger than 92mm. A 120mm fan heatsink with 8 heatpipes should be more than sufficient to keep a 65W TDP APU cool with the fans running at 75% RPM.
I love my love.
someone suggest to me a keyboard whose keys dont feel like total ass. I cannot come to a conclusion about this. Id be game for some lower end mechanical thing, but if anyone knows of a non-mechanical keyboard that isnt total ass and is /g/ approved....lemme know
Checking it again it would be better if you leave it like that.
You can add another videocard and get a 1KW PSU and another case, but thats it.
Its better to invest the money on more storage (Another SSD, probably a 1TB Extreme PRO and some WD Black HDDs)
If its not enough power for you there is the 2011 socket but your CPU is good enough already that wont be bottlenecked by any videocard.
I'm on the fence about buying an SSD. How much of a difference in load times does it make? 100$ is a lot to spend to get 20 second boot times vs 1 minute boot times. If I get the little 250GB one, I'd probably be putting my OS's and some programs like photoshop on it. Will that really save me significant amounts of time? I'm a poorfag, so I have some skepticism as to whether the difference is worth it, but I'm open to being sold on the idea.
I already built my machine, but I'm wondering what you guys think of it.
>212 evo for a light overclock
>some cheap gigabyte mobo
>gtx 960 4gb
>some cheap ass HDD - will get a ssd later.
Been using it for fallout 4, WoW, Witcher 3, and a few other games. Only one that even starts to stess the system is witcher 3, and I still get about 55 fps on high preset with grass turned down.
Because they are the best option for "le gaymur rig". That doesn't mean that an 8320 would bottleneck a mid-end GPU.
Only times bottleneck happens is if you have stupidly inbalanced builds such as an i3 4170 + a 290x2 or a titan X. It's a bad meme.
locked i5 4460 and FX 8350 are about the same price and perform about the same, but 8350 can overlock a LOT. Multi-threaded games like fallout can use the 8 cores too. And that's relevant because a lot of people are building pc's specifically to play fallout 4.
Ok trying this. I should add a double monitor setup that's a LG 24MP57VQ-P but the web doesn't have it.
I'm upgrading all my PC less drives and PSU, so what do you think?
most xeons perform as well as a same-generation i7 but for less. You cannot overclock, which may or may not be a downside for you. I know idiots that bought K-series i5's and don't OC them though. Keep in mind the list of compatible motherboards is different. different socket.
Okay I guess this build is what I'm starting to get comfortable with
It needs a hdd for single player games and stuff that doesn't need to load fast.
I haven't built a computer in 5 years, is the one I posted using skylake?
I3 and I5-6XXX also all CPUs that use the 1151 socket are skylake.
I would insist to get the build with more storage, trust me is way better than having a second GPU since you will end changing the GPU eventually with the new cards that are going to be released this year.
Okay, /g/. Since people seem to discuss this a lot, what is the best, reasonably priced, intel processor one can get for gaming? I have a 4790k and people are saying it's the memecpu. What is the best then?
Take the peripherals off the partpicker list so we can judge your actual budget for computer parts. This includes the monitor.
Also 6tb of storage seems super overkill unless you specifically need that much space for video editing / mass file storage. If you have an actual reason to need 6tb of storage then go for it.
It's not really worth the price difference to be quite honest familioni
any other qualms with the build tho?
I thought the whole tidal wave thing was a myth
From my own personal experience
You may want something better than a Hyper 212 EVO. The 4790k still gets pretty warm when not overclocked but running on Turbo mode, so you'll see temps in the mid-to-high 70s depending on the ambient temperature.
Find a cooler that has at least two fans (120mm or larger) that can fit in your case if you want something that can keep the CPU at comfy temps, but is quieter than a single over-worked fan running at max RPM.
Z97 is running out of stock, so I can't really fault you for your choice in mobos.
For the SSD, I think the BX100 will suit you well. It's still a pretty fast SSD, but you're not wasting money on performance that you will never use or experience the benefits from. For $30 more, you can get an SSD that's double the capacity with nearly 90% of the read performance as the MX200.
And don't go Hybrid HDD. They're not as fast as advertised unless you play the same games off of it over and over again. The platter is usually a slower 5900rpm one, which absolutely kills read/write speeds that aren't pre-cached in the 8GB SSD portion. Save a few bucks and buy a cheap Toshiba or Hitachi 7200rpm drive. I'm fairly certain you can find a 3TB drive for that price.
You could do better than the 390X. I'd say save a few more bucks on parts and upgrade to the Fury. I hear the Nano will go on for $499 soon, so you could also wait for that to come out. The 8GB RAM will almost never go fully utilized because the resolutions that need such high memory are more than a single Hawaii GPU can handle.
No opinion, as long as you know what you're buying.
The NEX isn't one of EVGA's better offerings, but it's alright.
Unless you absolutely need to write bluray discs, that drive is unnecessary.
Ethernet is much better
Anyway... here's a new build, taking into account the suggestions.
Still sticking with Windows, since I don't know dick about Linux, and I'd like to actually play some PC games, so a Macintosh OS is right the fuck out.
Decided to add an LCS instead, and I've read some promising things about the Cooler Master Nepton 240M. Switched to a SeaSonic Semi-modular PSU since I don't really hear anything bad about them, either.
>Z97 is running out of stock
I thought that was only on my third world country. Not him, but I guess I'll go skylake build once the local vendor confirms that z97s are "phased out"
Here's you first step: Ditch the WD Black for a 4TB Toshiba MD04. You save yourself a few bucks and get a whole 1TB more, while still getting an HDD with similar performance.
At this price point, you can find an R9 380 or R9 380X.
I'm more than certain that you can find a cheaper 80+ Gold PSU that's semi-modular. $100 seems like a lot for a semi-mod.
There you go:
I'd put a z97 PC MATE but for some reason people get too anal about budget MSI mobos.
Yes, you can downclock it if your BIOS doesn't do it automatically
Nice one you retarded nazi.
Well what will you be using it for? Just browsing and office stuff, or also gayming? If so, which games and what quality? What's your budget? Do you have any "special" needs such as 3d rendering, several VMs or advanced simulations?
It will be used for running financial software, plus the usual browser, word, excel, etc.I was hoping for it to be used for around 8 years without needing upgrades.
I've knocked the ram down to 8GB 2666, what motherboard and video card would you recommend?
Is no one going to point out that he's wasting so much money buying a 980ti for a 1080p monitor? Save yourself $300 for the EXACT same performance and get a R9 390. You won't see any gains on a 1080p monitor.
Choose a mouse that doesn't look like gaymur shit.
Get some case fans if that's your kind of thing.
I suspect that external hard drive is for back ups which is fine, but might as well buy another 1TB HDD and put it in RAID.
You can make do with a 120GB SSD but whatever.
No gaming yet, maybe in a few years when my brother inherits it.
Should I change the graphics card to something cheaper? I want it to be able to run with out the fan moving so it is quiet.
What's a good mouse looks professional and is high quality?
My 1080p gaming build.
Going Skylake for future proof. Anything I can improve?
Also, whats a good LG1151 socket CPU cooler? Cheers
That 750ti will last for years, run VERY quiet, use very little power and it's enough for 2x1440p IF you don't game on it.
IMO CPU cooler is not needed, but if you want silence and that case that's what I would go for.
Just get a microsoft mouse, you don't need much for office work 2bh, you can go wireless for extra comfyness. You might want to invest in some mech keyboard since they're actually useful if you're typing 8-10 hours a day.
If your brother inherits it he might want to change GPUs and such but since that's not for some years (where much better tech will be available).
Don't buy windows, just pirate win 7 pro/ultimate, upgrade to win10 and you're golden and "professional" enough.
That's great, thanks for the info.
I'll be buying Win 7 since the business is paying for it and the custom financial software that will be used is not compatible with Windows 10 yet.
Just like with corsair, I advice against thermaltake PSUs unless it's the premium line.
Just get an EVGA 650W gold for about 10 euros more, if you want to go bronze then seasonic m12iis are your best bet.
Shit is €50 more expensive than the thermaltake, Are they just unreliable is what you're saying?
Oh alright, that makes picking one easier. But that raijintek is very attractable
I've made a few changes, how does this look now?
get two 4GBx2 sticks of ram for dual channel and you are golden
the thermaltake is 80+ bronze so should be fine I think. Plus has all the connectors I need without the need to buy adapters
damn, that's more than what I expected. Yes, budget thermaltake PSUs are far from reliable just by looking at the parts.
Getting a bronze it's perfectly fine but try to go for Seasonic, XFX, Antec, etc. It's up to you really, that PSU may work just fine but it's always a gamble with budget TT and corsair. Link me to your store and I will find you a better one.
Looks fine, but you don't really need:
- a 500GB SSD unless you're using some kind of 100GB application, get a bigger HDD if that's what you need.
- an unlocked processor for office work. That's just overkill an i5 6600 or even i3 6100 + an h110m board is more than enough.
I mean it's fine if you just don't care about price but it's not optimal for the price. If your company is paying for it might as well go full retard an buy 980tis and shit.
Ditch the PRO
It's the most overpriced meme SSD out there. A cheap 480GB Crucial BX100/OCZ ARC 100/SanDisc SSD Plus or 500GB Mushkin ECO2/Samsung 850 EVO is more than enough.
I've used both an 850 PRO, 850 EVO, and a Trion 100 as a boot drive. The differences in boot and loading times were so small, you'd need to go into the decimals to notice.
I don't care for brand as long as it has all the connectors I need and it's reliable, will allow to power all my parts plus some overhead for OC and preferably cheap.
I'm buying in bulk from one site to save on deliveries.
get a wd blue or a hitachi deskstar over that wd green.
Drop the cpu to a i5-6400
change mobo to like a msi h170a pc mate
change cpu cooler to something quiter like cryorig m9i
could go cheaper on the psu like
Whats he do anyway, does he need a lot of power on this thing?
Most Kingstons aren't bad, it's just the V300 that threw the rug under us. And the V300 is still noticeably faster than a 7200rpm HDD, dumbass. A proper drive like an OCZ ARC 100 or similar MLC NAND SSD with Micron (and later versions of the Sandforce) controllers are faster than the V300, but not by much. The differences in OS boot times (worst case scenario would be an old Vista or 7 OS filled with OEM bloatware) isn't even five seconds between the V300 and the ARC 100. Compare that with a nearly 12 second drop between a V300 and a WD Blue 500GB HDD. The faster you go, the less of a benefit you'll notice because the differences in read and write times scale down exponentially - a drive would have to be monumentally fast in order to make current SSDs look slow. PCIe NVMe SSDs are not quite there, although they do benefit immensely for heavy write scenarios (directly writing a 4K uncompressed video stream from a camera, for instance).
The V300 isn't bad, but it's not the best choice for the money. I don't recommend the V300 on performance for money when there are cheaper, ungimped SSDs with the same capaciry and faster performance available.
Same thing with the 850 PRO and the like - if you don't need it, don't waste your money on it.
How's this for gaming at 1080p? Anything I might need to change?
these are better
and around your budget.
first budget build for decent gaming any things I should change.
p33 is always a gamble and who buys windows anyway, other than that it looks based for a 390 build.
what's with the 660? getting it used?
Other than that either get a 4690 + H97 mobo or get the 4690k + an aftermarket cooler + Z97 mobo.
250GB SSD on a budget is retarded IMO. Also, get an 850 or an SSD Plus.
This is perfect. 2x 4 Pin Mini for my two HDD's and has the PCI express power pins I need for my GPU. Thanks a lot.
>4960k on H97 chip
won't be able to over clock it so either get a better mobo with a z97 or don't get a K CPU
Old card, just get a gtx 960/r9 380. For gaming GPU is more important than CPU
id you are on a budget, don't buy one. Add that $91 to a GPU
Aiming to build a portable machine which can still pack a punch. I'll add a monitor; it's not important right now. Critique my build.
OCZ turned their image around after Toshiba bought them out. Sure, the Trion 100 is a fucking abortion of a TLC NAND SSD, but everything else they make is pretty solid now.
I'm saying that speed doesn't make much of a difference after a certain point, dumbass.
Reliability, warranty period, and drive support is also important, but it varies from country to country. Mushkin has pretty good customer service from my past experience with them, PNY falling close behind. Corsair's CS and RMA was fucking atrocious. They make overpriced drives and expect you to front the cost of shipping your defective drive to their center and back. I'd rather buy another drive than RMA a fucking Corsair SSD.
I've yet to RMA a single OCZ SSD for any of my clients or my own builds. I've only had to return three Crucial drives, and that's because they were physically damaged during shipping.
I'm not going to use it for gaming exactly. I'll be playing a few games but nothing particularly demanding. Hearts of Iron III, Rise of Nations...emulated N64 games...
Ideal budget ceiling is £600 and monitor resolution will be 1920x1080.
I'll look into those.
You won't need an SSD for the OS if all you're going to do is run a server off of it. Hell, you can install the OS on a flash drive or use a Type 1 Hypervisor with the VM running off the flash drive.
He's not wrong. A Skylake i3 is pretty GOAT for a dual-core and it doesn't hurt to save costs on the CPU for a much better graphics card.
Too bad it's still a dual core. If only Zen arrived last year...
Honestly, I should have just reused a 64GB SSD I had lying around. Whatever, it's $40 of waste, and when I get to a point where I want to exhaust all the HDD slots in the case, I can just slip the SSD into the open space under the hard drive bays.
Here it is guys, it'll be my main rig for gaming/general work. Budget isn't really an issue.. I can push a little higher if needed.
It's true though, an i5 is ideal for gaming but not what this guy >>52455888 really needs. I get it, you're from /v/ and think there's some linear relation to cores/clock speed and le_fps but you're wrong. Stick to $1000+ builds where your memes fit in just fine.
You might be better off with a pre-soldered motherboard. There is an ITX board that has an A4-5000 with a 15W TDP for about $10 less than your motherboard. That's significantly lower energy consumption for a APU that's still a four-core with alright integrated graphics. You're not going to game on it anyway, so you might as well consider it if you're going to have it running 24/7.
That's why I recommended the A4-5000. There are Pentium and Celeron integrated CPU boards, but they all suck for moderately complex server usage. The A4-5000 is one of the better choices for a light-weight server build.
If you're only emulating N64 and playing non demanding games might as well skip the GPU and get a better PSU. CXs are SHIT, SHIIIIIIIIT.
If you really want a 750ti then get the EVGA one, that ASUS is stupidly overpriced, it's not like the 750 needs much cooling anyway.
So its simply the max RAM clock speed that CPU supports, not the required clock speed? Good. Keep reading there's no difference between the speeds unless I'm using integrated graphics (don't intend to). Also, as tempted as I am to get 16GB right off the bat, is it worth the extra cost or am I better off starting with two 4GB sticks (or just one 8GB stick) and buying more another time?
Depends on prices and needs, most people get by with 8GB just fine.
I'm browsing, playing FO4 on and off and listening to music on foobar and it isn't even at 90%.
If you plan to set a RAMdisk, run a couple VMs or some shit you might use 16GB.
tl;dr get 8GB and add RAM as you need it.
Does the gpu really block some drive bays or is the half centimetre just a point of aesthetic?.. ways to knock down the price without loosong perfpmance are welcome http://de.pcpartpicker.com/p/DJB9bv
The issue is my browser. I have a tendency to hoard tabs and that takes a bit of a toll. A 1.7GB and counting toll. And the current laptop happens to have 8GB. The PC will be more or less a fresh start so I might curb that habit when the time comes and eventually expand to 16GB. Not as a ramdisk (thought you needed 32GB for that) but to run a VM.
Also, does brand matter? I was eyeing on Kingston but the local Micro Center doesn't have it.
No, I mean you can always hear stories about how mushkin or Gskill RAM fails here and there but so do Kingstons and there's no perfomance difference at same clock speed.
As of browsing, it's always useful to restart your browser (especially if using a FF fork) to prevent memory leaks. Now if you're using 2GB on browsing, a game takes no more than 3.5GB (AAA games) and other stuff down the line might take 1GB more. You still haven't used up all your RAM.
Honestly do whatever you think works best for you.
Alright changed some things up also should I stick with the seagate HDD or should I go with something else.
>le gaming mobo
Unless you specifically need one of its specs you'll be fine with a cheaper GAZ97X.
do not get the 840 SSD, they have a higher rate of failure than its 850 counterpart. You don't really need 250GB since games on an SSD (if on a budget) are an awful meme that needs to die.
PSU is way too big for those components (inb4 future proofing when new parts get lower and lower wattage requirements) but whatever.
Thx for the answer but I don't like the idea of having 2 288 pin slots
Wouldn't you recommend me the 4690k?
Tried a new build with the 980 and a msi board
Don't see anything wrong with it but maybe change that seagate to something else
I tell everyone to stay away from seagate
It's gotten better. I've been using four Seagates (mostly 2TB Barracudas and one Momentus) and they've yet to show a single error. I might have gotten really lucky though.
WD has been hit-and-miss with some of my clients, but those were mostly Green and Blue drives. For some reason, the Blue drives tend to die early from a faulty spindle, but the Greens just didn't spin up at all when they failed.