Rate, hate deb8
>buy a case that can fit a full size card
>still buy a crippled expensive "itx-card"
>being this new at building computers.
Your heat sink is the wrong direction. fins should be allined with exhaust + intake fans. I bet your cpu heat is being pushed on to your card.
Not sure it would fit, but could you move the Fury to the top of the case and put another fan for intake ?
I get its itx but maybe clean them up a bit.
6/10 clean it up the cables as much as you can and up your airfflow game could be an 8/10
Sup /g/ I don't want to RMA my bottom card that has a defected shroud. Should I fill in the bug screw holes on the bottom card, sand and repaint each. I can just deal with it and not RMA it and sell it when pascel comes.
No fat angle this time. I'm think of painting some conduit black and feeding all the cables through that.
will probably be the best $70~ range case. i cannot find a single case other than the enthoo pro full tower that can house a 420mm radiator in the $100 range. phanteks is killing it in the value for your money department.
I need a cheap CPU cooler. Preferably as cheap or cheaper than the Hyper 212 Evo that looks better than that ugly POS.
If no suggestions I'll settle with the Evo.
Anyone know why speccy is reporting my ram the way it is? Should I be tweaking my bios settings?
R8 m8, plz don't h8
a build i just finished yesterday
8gb ddr4 2133
hey dont feel like starting new thread for this, today i built my new gaymen pc everything went rly smooth but now i notice something the cpu cooler clamp is lightly grazing the mobo heat sink can this cause problems or im i good?
14cm slots would be fantastic, though what I'm using it for is more than adequate.
When I bought this case as a 'cheap chassis' to migrate my HDDs from the TJ07 with spare parts and ran headless, I was a little embarrassed to have spent what I did on the TJ. It is so goddamn solid, the rubber HDD grommets, sliding caddies and overall construction is truly a standard I have to keep.
That's because it's not a Nendo it's a knockoff piece of low quality garbage called Funko
I updated the speccy image, the RAM now operates at the right frequency and timings. It was defaulting to 2133 when it should be at 3000. It was a matter of changing the XMP profile from auto to the one provided by the corsair.
I really wish I could have done a better job with cabling but the PSU wasn't giving me a lot of freedom. I might buy a shorter SATA cable.
Fuck, I'm disappointed in myself for not noticing; but not quite as much as I am in this Funko.
Tell me this isn't the best cable management in a $400 computer, and I'll call you a liar.
Really want to change the fans to ThermalTake Riing 12 RGB's till I saw the MTBF rating for 40,000 hours compared to my 6-year warranty 150,000 hour MTBF F12's. Fuck thaaaaat.
I'd love to do hard tubing next. It'd look much cleaner. Currently moving the external fan controller that's behind the vertical rad. Anybody have experience with hard tubing? If it much more difficult?
This only pretends to have cable management options - I will get an enthoo pro on payday
It even has a black plastic cover on top.
I also painted the top Evo fin black, that makes it looks kinda neat (not my pic, still looks shit compared to the Cryorig H7).
Light that shit up, can't see a thing.
And EVERY case has cable management options, just step your shit up. My PSU isn't even modular, either.
>blaming a case for cable management issues
this Antec 300 says you're just lazy
You did what you could. I've got another rig in the SG05, and I'd go crazy if I tried to cable manage that stupid thing any further.
Can we change this to /itx/ general? ITX guts are best guts.
I like how quiet my case is but the empty space is starting to bug me. Is there anything quiet but smaller that fits all this, assuming the optical drives and drive cages can go?
Don't know of any cases that you'd want. But you can fill up the empty space by taking 2-3 SSDs and mounting them sideways. Put them in Raid or something stupid, get ebin gaem loading times.
Screw that, I prefer mATX, that way you can really see your guts. ITX is pure god-tier for anything HTPC or Lan parties, though.
(This is where I'd post my mATX guts if my mobo wasn't taking so long to ship.)
I applaud you for the magic that is your front radiator.
7/10 for losing your I/O.
>Minimal color coordination, Thermaltake Toughpower, Gainward 960/950
It hurts 5/10
Very clean, maybe link the GPU power cables together?
>Dat color consistancy
Your ASUS turbo's always get me.
Speccy reports RAM speed at the single data rate. DDR(etc) is double data rate. So 1066mhz = 2133mhz
Much blue, much consistant.
Why the Noctua poops when you have all that good ass blue?
9/10 cause poopfan
On mobile. will post later.
P183 is good, but my P193 is better, it even has two 14cm fan slots ;)
threadly dose of 90s case coming through
rate me if you dare
Got new pump, res, CPU block, another rad and fans waiting at home, to be continued in a week or so.
Looks like it's time to back down on that OC.
Hnngggg my NCase will be here soon and I'll start with my new build.
you simply don't have good taste.
Can anyone help me? Last night my rig would start so I took out the MOBO battery and got it to go. It all starts up fine now. Now a second ago my speakers and headset wouldn't work, restarted the computer and it works fine. Im confused... RMA?
That tends to happen when stuff is maxxing out your PC.
I'm still debating if I can fit teh EVGA Titan X ACX 2.0 cooler on my 980.
I think if I cut off part of the vram/ vreg plate that doesn't actually do anything other than add rigidity I can get it to fit.
I have no idea what might be the cause...every time I press the power, it turns on [led and fan spinning] and it turns itself off for a second and power on one more time. Everywhere I search, it people having to press the power on the second boot. None of them are similar to my situation...
Thanks for the suggestions.
Good idea! But I'd be worried about debris getting between the heatsink fins or in the fans.
Install gentoo. My box runs ganoo and has never crashed. Its windows VM has never had a BSOD either.
>invoking the feeling of electronic lust in my loins
I'm with you anon I frequently use my bluray drive for lossless CD rips
bluray is also a superior backup medium
>muh hide the pc parts autism
Silent Air 540 is over. New project is Silent Evolv ATX.
The Z170 and 6700k are relatively new, I wouldn't expect auto OC to be dialed in properly yet.
I really like the aluminum of this case over the boxy plastic on the 540. Temps are about equal, too.
Or you could OC the proper way, it's bound to teach you something about how your computer works. You don't even have to overclock, might just optimize the shit out of it at it's stock multiplier so it runs all cool and quiet.
woops, missed that one
have you ever tried jacking off with that robot arm?
>"Cooled with cum"
>85c in star citizen
Cum makes for excellent thermal transfer.
It's a very quirky case, but is extremely well built. All glass and aluminum construction is really a rare sight. Plus the aesthetics plus the roominess. Not nearly as small as my last ITX case, the Hadron Air.
There are some things to note though, mainly that plugging in and out cables is more difficult than on normal cases since the I/O shield doesn't extend to the back panel. See my pic for an example. All in all a good case.
There's only one full tower (>>52346437) in the thread before your post. Yes, it's empty. But it's still only one. Most people are running mid towers. Calm down and untangle your panties.
No, it's giving a stupid answer to a stupid question. The length of the graphics card and the maximum length the case supports are both made readily available through the specifications published by the manufacturer, listed on both their own sites and in the product descriptions at the retailers that sell them. Asking here is either being lazy or being stupid, and rewarding that behavior just results in the dumbass asking the question coming back to ask another stupid question when he's incapable of following simple instructions to piece his components together.
Hello, /g/. I'm not quite fond of the blue LED, but I just have to live with it for now. This mobo apparently has rather high temps for NB, and I got rather worried, so I put a 80mm fan on it. The 120 sitting by the gpu was a spare one and I thought I might as well fit it. Excuse the mess.
Cubitek mini is fucking gorgeous. DO you have more pictures of it?
Not really. I don't even use it anymore, it's just sitting in it's box on top of my wardrobe. I agree it's a cute case, but the cooling in it is utter shit. If it had been half an inch wider it would've fit all the popular tower coolers, now it's kind of sketchy. And you really need to mod it as per your pic, to even consider it for anything other than a low powered HTPC.
>to expand a bit more
If I could I'd make it similarly sized, but like I said, slightly wider to accommodate taller heatsinks and a 120mm fan as an outtake, instead of 92mm. Two 120mm intakes at the front. Move the PSU to the top, with a grill over it on the top panel, so it can be used in fanless mode. Put two 120mm intakes on the bottom to blow air straight at the GPU. Oh and fuck stamped holes for grills and shit. Use an actual wire grill that doesn't impede airflow as much. That's it. The perfect case.
I have half a mind to switch to that from the Define R5 (which I switched to after the P183).
But it's just too ridiculously huge and I want 14cm fans on the front/back, not on the top.
my mobo shit the bed I need an to purchase a new one I figured this would be a relevant place to ask.
what are current approved mobos? I'm looking for something around 200-250 USD.
busted asus maximus vi hero z87
evga 980 ti
3 SSDs, HDD + optical drive
also looking into better cooling. currently have a cheap cooler master cpu fan. I'll pay around 100 bux for that. If anyone has any suggestions i'd greatly appreciate the effort
How did your mobo die? Did it take out any components with it? I'd buy a cheap Z97 mobo from a local store with a good return policy to make sure that your CPU, RAM and GPU didn't fry along with the mobo. Test the components and return the board once you're satisfied with the testing.
I'd get an ASRock Z97 Extreme6 for full M.2 bandwidth (PCIe3 x4 bandwidth, not the shitty PCIe2 x2 of most Z97 boards), or an ASUS Z97 board with a native USB 3.1 port on the rear IO. Gigabyte's Z97 G1 Gaming board is alright, but MSI are almost always overpriced trash that will fail on you at least once. EVGA is a nigger-tier board that tries to wow with extra PCIe3 lanes for SLI via a PLX chip, but everything else about it is mediocre compared with what you can get from other mobos for the same price.
But in your case, go with a cheap ASUS, ASRock, or Gigabyte Z97 board. You're probably not going to go SLI, nor should you switch to an M.2 drive (it shuts off 2 SATA ports on most boards or one PCIe slot) unless you absolutely have to. Do not buy based on what you want or hope to get, but on what you need right now and know you'll need.
Oh, you're ditching Haswell for Skylake. It's generally not worth the upgrade and it will be cheaper to reuse your 4770k until post-Kaby Lake. The Z170 chipset is a stopgap in my eyes, half-heartedly including newer hardware standards, but not retaining 100% functionality because a lot of the newer features (USB3.1, M.2, etc) relies on the same number of PCIe lanes that you're limited to on the chipset. The more features you have, the less you're able to use at any one time because they almost always share lanes (usually up to 4x lanes of PCIe3.0).
Z270 and later will have USB3.1 native to the chipset (rather than a hasty add-on via pre-allocated PCIe3.0 lanes) and more PCIe3.0 lanes that would no longer force you to choose between M.2 SSDs, more graphics cards, or other add-on cards.
Get a reasonably-priced Z87 or Z97 board to hold you over until the next few generations. Your Haswell is within 90-97% of the performance envelope of Skylake's i7-6700k anyway.
didn't quite die but i've had a very odd problem and i've been troubleshooting for days with no luck, small advances but i've finally reached a full stale point,
bought ssd, unplugged psu and sata from optical drive to put into ssd.
got A2 Q code which is trouble recognizing/reading a drive etc.
managed to get into like 5 times out of over a hundred attempts. messed around in bios infinitely, but the sata is shown in bios, but for some reason it isn't showing up in the boot drive order settings. I couldn't even access it before until i plugged in a usb. It was the only available "boot drive" even though in the sata section it was recognizing all of my drives. Nothing that i went through has any evidence that it was my gpu or other components messed up. For a moment I thought it might have been the gpu because I went into bios and enabled the CSM as opposed to having it on auto, and tried turning it on (without the gpu in) and it worked, with all of my drives responding. i thought i fixed the issue so I turn it all off, plug in my card and A2 Q code again. Take it back out, don't change anything else, and i still get the error again, i'm guessing it was a fluke. And i have been able to access windows a couple times with my gpu plugged in aswell.
btw. you fellas have any idea if pascal will run on the current mobos on the market? since they're revamping the whole way the gpus work. I plan on getting a pascal
Did you try flashing the BIOS to the latest update of clearing CMOS? It sounds like it's an issue with either the SATA port or the SATA controller, if not an actual issue with the SSD itself.
Try this: buy an external USB3.0 HDD dock and mount the problem drive/drives into the dock while you boot. If it still has the same problem, it could be that the drive itself got fucked over and you might want to start backing up the data on it.
If it works, then the drive is fine and it's the port or controller that has the issue. In which case, you don't need to buy a new mobo, but a simple $30 PCIe-to-SATA add-in board.
>have any idea if pascal will run on the current mobos on the market
If it has at least one PCIe 2.0/3.0 16x slot, then it can run any card out there. All H/Z97, H/Z170, B85, B150, A88X, A85, A78, and A75 boards have one PCIe 3.0 16x slot. They will be able to run Pascal or any future card at its full bandwidth. PCIe2.0 x16 slots found on older H81, A65, A68, all AM1, and all AM3+ boards will have a very slightly reduced performance on PCIe3.0 x16 card. Maybe a 2-4% difference at most.
the problem persists with all 4 drives. Including the brand new ssd never before used.
No matter if one, two or four drives connected.
I believe it's the whole thing, they all get read by the mobo but none of them are able to be selected as boot up drives
A weird thing though is I only get the A2 Qcode with the intel sata ports but when I put it in the ASMedia sata port It instead says 99 but the same problem still persists. I can't get into windows
>Actually wasting money on an Asus Maximus ITX motherboard.
>No Display port
> no M.2
> no PS/2
>only 5 USB ports with only 2 additional USB 3.0 only
>no USB 2.0 at all
> location of U.2 is more than ridiculous
>no SATA-E connectors
> no TPM connector
>only 2 FAN connectors with board for additional FANs that must mounted somewhere in your mini ITX case
>no power&reset buttons
>retarded CMOS battery.
I dunno, anon. Mini-ITX suits my needs.
I don't do much in the way of video games.
I've never attached more than three USB devices.
In the last decade of use I haven't broken 100 GB of needed storage on any PC.
For display output, I do buy cases that are large enough to mount a GPU. So I don't mind if the mobo has limited options for that.
Are you not butthurt over the fact that the Asus Z170I Pro Gaming mini ITX which sells for nearly 100 less has an M.2 slot over the Maximus? As well as other features such PS/2, SATA-E, Full size Display Port, 6 USB 3.0 Ports and two USB 2.0 Ports.
Hello my fellow air 240 owner : ^ )
>Windows 7 Ready!
Oh no don't get me wrong. I'm talking about the form factor, not that specific instance.
I would never buy a Z170 mini-ITX. The benefits of Z170 over H170, or even H110, are negligible when you consider that you can't get the additional slots and outputs on a mini-ITX the way you can on an ATX.
If your mobo supports it, you can plug in a flash drive with the update as an ISO and update the BIOS via the BIOS menu.
But from what you've said, I think your chipset might be fucked. That calls for a new board, unless you want to save a few dozen bucks and buy a $30 SATA port multiplier/RAID card. It might not work, given that even your ASMedia controller doesn't recognize the drives. Find a cheap Z87/97 board and stick with it for at least a while. See if you can have it replaced under warranty, if the period is still active.
>mfw CPUs just turned 10
>motherboard just turned 9
>PATA boot drivre
>replacement motherboard upgrade is die
>SATA RAID card won't let system boot if installed
only the dead will know peace from this suffering
sup bros (old pic)
>itx with 3pice
>your cpu heat is being pushed on to your card.
why do people buy this shit tier PSUs???
If you really want quality buy Seasonic platinum series, fucking best on the market and cost about the same.
why do you need so many SSDs, SSD suck donkey dick for Data storage. Get a single 1TB if you really have that much Games or Photoshop etc. but for data storage always HDD(HGST or Toshiba).
>better CPU cooling
Why do you need better cooling?
Unless you OC like a madman you dont need to switch the cooler.
If you really want to switch, Noctua NH-D15, Phanteks PH-TC14PE or budget but good Thermalright HR-02 Macho Rev. B.
AIO CPU cooler only look nice but are not that much better than the two Air coolers I posted.
Only true water cooling destroys Aircooling.
>Your heat sink is the wrong direction. fins should be allined with exhaust + intake fans. I bet your cpu heat is being pushed on to your card.
holy fucking shit, you're actually this retarded
This is like a super sloppy blowjob video. It's an absolute mess, but you get off to it. It's enjoyable but having to deal with all those fluids all over your pants, the floor and the bed is annoying to clean. It looks like it feels great but I'm unsure if I'll regret it later.
>buy big fans to just blow air to somewhere and not think into airflow.
im an expert in blown exaust, and i agree with him
>tfw my harddisk is louder than all of the gpu, cpu, and psu fan combined
Anyone know any good aftermarket coolers for the 980ti
Thanks. It looks good in the picture. Was a good build, too. But, some parts caught fire and failed. I think it was the PSU.
Ayyyy. Soon I'll be on that 970 life, and miss the days of best looking GPU.
Glad you like.
> why do people buy this shit tier PSUs???
Why are you so dumb? You literally have no idea about high end psu quality. But you heard someone somewhere said HURRDURR SEASONIC HURR. Kill yourself, you piece of lame shit.
I max out on 37 degrees on GPU and 39 degrees on CPU in Star Citizen at max.
Prime95 and 3Dmark makes it go to about 41-43 degrees after 3-4 hours.
How fast do you have those fans spinning, and is there another rad on the other side of the case somewhere? 18-20c deltas with those components on a 240 rad is hard to believe. The small increase when running a stress test also doesn't seem possible.
just redone, with new Cpu cooler and pwr supply
16 GB Corsair
R4 Memelord Case
Spare parts of friends. They did not have spare case, tho. I make do.
I/O panel. Sorry for dark.
As long as I do not close it it does not get too hot really.