is it bad to rick owens before raf simmonsing? i am trying to appreciate both offerings by these designers but don't want to commit to full goof just yet.
KVA is an actual hack whose completely undeserving of his current standing in fashion. He makes 'cool' shoes and backpacks and that's the only reason he's talked about on /fa/. His clothing rarely warrants any discussion. He's probably the best cocksucker in fashion, which gets you far
Sebastian Meunier had been hired for, what, a year before that, so she had already been delegating a lot before this happened. There was clearly a plan in place to ensure a smooth transition.
Depends on who you ask, frankly. It's a business and it had to go on without her sooner or later. If the line's new direction doesn't please you, there's still plenty of other brands out there.
Well obviously there was a reason Ann was part of the Antwerp 6. She was high,y esteemed and put out some of the most memorable shows of this decade. She knew how to create the aesthetic she loved perfectly but never let it go stale. That being said towards the end she began to lose sight a little bit and the shows lost something. So maybe Meunier will bring something to the table Ann didn't but for the most
Art when the creator of the label leaves most people see it as a bad thing or at the very least a step down from the original designers level.
patrician opinion coming through
i think the antwerp 6 were largely successful when they displayed their work in london was because at the time fashion was very much about severe tailoring, pronouncing the breast butt; sex appeal and glamour (they note it as something that surprised, that all the fashion in london was seemingly about sex appeal and slim fit tailoring).
but the antwerp 6, who had learned under linda loopa (much more concerned about the journey of an individual finding their own medium, expressing themselves) and i think because of that when they came to present their work in london what they offered came in stark contrast to the avaliable fashion of the time...
also antwerp, as a thriving artistic community (which had been governed by the previous dean of the academy, sorry name escapes atm but she was way more strict and expecting) was a good environment for artists from all disciples to discover themselves and produce content as a community.
You didn't answer the original question though... What are you really even talking about? I was talking about why she was successful and why it will be seen as a negative that she left her label. There was no reason to bring the history of the six into account, your just flexing your knowledge for no apparent reason other than to appear smart. Which isn't working because you completely missed the target.
some of the clothes he made were very interesting. he had a concept store up with some of the neatest shit ive ever seen. still scratching my head on why he isn't pursuing fashion :|
You want to tell me why he is a good designer doing interesting things? You probably couldn't even picture a garment of his that isn't a shoe or backpack without googling it. If you can tell me what kva does to successfully stand out from the dozens of other designers doing the same repetitive sport lux thing atm maybe we can open up an actual discussion on his merit as a designer. I don't really understand why he was given the dior gig over NAT who had personal involvement with the house and was doing far more interesting things at the time in his own menswear than KVA (really impressive tailoring in his suiting, world class imo). He's just not very exciting to me. I'd like to know what you like about him
>You probably couldn't even picture a garment of his
The "mixed media" sportswear/tailoring pieces from a few seasons ago were all over the place. He's very much a big part of the sport-luxe dialogue at the luxury retail level. You very much see him and Neil Barrett casualwear products displayed prominently in department stores with a relatively contemporary clientele.
Not saying he's great, but it's hard to imagine that a schmuck with no skill would be able to run his own line and a super storied menswear brand.
Are you talking about the blazers with the 'rugged' graphic print blocking from AW13? I didn't really enjoy that at all, though I suppose it was interesting. I just think overall is output just fits into the dialogue you mention without standing out. He's still relatively young though, and with more than his foot in the door so I could be convinced otherwise, I enjoyed elements of SS14 quite a bit. Its just funny to see certain designers accelerated to relevancy without personally seeing any real reason why (like why KVA and not NAT, who is fading into obscurity really, but could easily have flourished with the same.opportunities)
NAT produces a significantly more niche product that has a much smaller audience. Siki Im has a similarly great pedigree and also has made the decision to stay in the right stores instead of trying to get into all the stores. KVA, in contrast, has made inroads in both the luxe streetwear arena with the expansion of footwear (hate if you want, but they're smart and they manage to keep their seasonal offerings relevant) and a significant amount of sportswear. The tailoring itself represents a smaller portion of their overall sales, but his shirting always shows up at top tier doors. He's also been smart about moving manufacturing to keep prices under control while protecting margins. Sure, a lot of this is the CEO that's helping him run the show and his assistant designers, but there still has to be a person articulating a vision for a brand to have this sort of growth and presence.