Okay /fa/, I need your help.
For my 21st birthday I'm being taken to Timothy Everest in London to get a bespoke suit. I'm about to start a job in the city so it seemed like a very good idea.
The only thing I know so far is that I want a navy 2-button suit. However, I need to pick pretty much everything and I'm a bit lost.
I need to pick the fabric, the number of pockets, pleated or straight front, the slant of every pocket, the slant of the lapels and the size of the lapels, etc. etc. etc.
Please could you guys give me some inspiration or advice. If you were getting a tailored suit for working in London what would you go for?
Save me please.
If you have any pictures of men in navy suits that you think look particularly good please post them, that would be ideal because then I can probably show the tailor the picture which will be much better than any of my attempts to describe things.
I wouldn´t recommend you to invest a big amount of money on a suit now -like it looks you are going to-, because your body is going to change a lot in the next years.
I know it´s a special occasion, but I would recommend you to wait.
If you decide to go for it: NO PLEATS.
yea I am, I have an investment banking summer internship which essentially guarantees a job afterwards in London.
it's a fair point that they will be better than /fa/ at helping me decide but i don't want to go in with absolutely no clue. i don't even know what sort of lapel or anything you're meant to have on a business suit.
well it will probably be about 2000 and should last a couple of years at least (i'm 6'1 and i'm definitely not getting much taller or broader any time soon). i should probably add that my father has quite a lot of money and really wants to buy me this as a present.
regarding the no pleats, that seems to be the general consensus... and they just look pretty fucking stupid.
by three front pockets do you mean like this? two on one side and one on the other? that's what my dad has on his suit which was also tailored by timothy everest. i think it looks pretty good.
yea i was thinking just plain untextured navy. maybe with very subtle lines (like in the picture i just posted) but not like pinstripe or anything. since it's a business suit i want to stick to a classic, timeless style.
A subtle glencheck or windowpane pattern is always nice.
Charles Tyrwhitt shirts are the best you'll get OP, cheap too - 4 for £100.00, some absolutely fab cufflink sets too anywhere up to £50.00.
Made from Egyptian cotton, another bonus being the collar metal strips- always make the shirt look brand new.
I can offer some advice here.
Ask for your trousers to sit at your natural waist, which is your torso's slimmest point (usually at or just above your bellybutton): this isn't fashionable right now, but creates classic, traditional proportions and is the most comfortable position for pants to sit at, and they will never slip down. No need for suspenders either, ask for side tabs (personal favourite) or just belt loops.
If your pants are going to sit at your waist, you're going to want pleats for them to expand naturally when you sit down and to hang properly when you're walking. Ask for double inverse pleats. Reverse pleats complete the same function, but can conjure up images of 80's power suits. Personally, I like both, but inverse pleats are rarer and harder to do, so you may as well get best bang for your buck. Pleats should close whenever you're not sitting.
NO PLEATS is a circa 2010 meme that is peddled by #fashion bloggers and shitty magazines like GQ.
Going with a higher waist can permit pants to be fuller cut, which again isn't fashionable atm, but looks very respectable, which I assume you're going for. How wide is up to you, however I woul go for classic full cut, it creates a nice flowing movement and doesn't tug anywhere. Ask for no break or a very tiny semi break and 2 in cuffs(pers. preference).
I don't remember what the trademark, house cut Timothy Everest does, but You should probably ask for some drape in the chest of your jacket (again, depends on what your comfortable with). Drape is basically excess material, not to be confused with baginnes. It will make your chest look wider. Some drape also avoids the military cut look, which some people like (however I don't).
Ask for generous, notched lapels. Peaked are too memorable. Having tiny lapels destroys the point of having cancassed, beautifully rolled lapels that bespoke provides. Shoulders should be padded.
Go double vents or no vents.(Slashes at the back of the jacket)
Cont. - Ask for skeleton lining inside the jacket, which means lined only at the shoulders and taped seams.
You don't need/want a waistcoat. It will add cost and is played out.
Finally the material. 13 oz wool. I would even go with 14-15 oz. It may seem to warm, but remember that modern 6-10 oz suitings are weaved much tighter which impedes airflow, so heavier can be cooler. Also, heavier fabric wrinkles MUCH less, drapes much better, and can take a beating. I assume you don't have many suits, so these qualities are even more useful. Stay away from supers and delicate fabrics. Pick between flannel and worsted.