>open source community
>buyfag buyers guide
Any number of Reprap kits out there
>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)
>what kind of filament do I want
>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
>how to calibrate
>where do I get files to print?
>what programs do you make your own files with
>where to buy genuine hotends
http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-hotends (USA E3D reseller)
http://e3d-online.com/ (E3Ds regular site, yuro based)
http://hotends.com/ (genuine J-Head seller)
>where to buy filament
>but anon, there are euros here
Yay new bread.
I've been prototyping my clone of the HolyTrainer2, so I can lock up my sissy bitches and watch them squirm.
CNC is coming along nicely. Just need the three steppers, and a way to cut the MDF. Can I use a jigsaw to cut curves and other shapes on mdf?
never worked with a jigsaw or mdf before. anything I should look out for? Iknow the jiggy thing is the part I'm not supposed to touch. I'll be cutting it out on the balcony using two chairs as a sort of sawhorse and a dust mask.
Does the jigsaw kick or is there another danger I'm not aware of? Something along the lines of "dont wear long sleeves while operating a lathe"?
Drill a hole as a starting place for your blade. Make sure your cutting path only cuts the wood.
Try to stay as level as you can.
If you fuck up, get more wood, try again.
A jigsaw really isn't a hard tool to use.
I've got experience in programming, machining, machine fabrication, autocad, uC's, ect.
How much $ would it take to get started in entry level for a poorfag like me?
Point me to poorfag resources?
I realize the OP is loaded with info, but GEEZ, that's a lot to read/explore for just curiosity.
sort of like this, but I'll use plastic supports and threaded rod on the front and back instead of acrylic/mdf, like the mendel connecting blocks. I'm also using a printed standoff for the motors.
about $200~$300 if you're willing to receive no customer support, information, documentation, or instructions for assembly but all the parts you will need.
It's up to you how you calibrate it for your final result. Get yourself a cheap set of feeler gauges and a nice caliper if you don't already have them.
>tfw my "shitty" $300 is more reliable and makes nicer prints than my school's top of the line TAZ Lulzbot.
also, other thoughts on best environment for a printer? my room can be quite chilly (55-60f in the morning) and it isn't insulated very well. sometimes it seems like the bed won't stay warm enough. i'm working with ABS @240C with bed at 100C and haven't been in this game very long...
I have mine on an ikea lack coffee table shoved into the pantry. (small room at the entrance of the apartment) Since the cnc mill will soon go there, I'm clearing out space in the restroom's closet/hallway closet to move it there.
As for securing, all I did was stick some U brackets to the table that hold the front feet from moving. That way it won't vibrate off the table.
someone here made an enclosure out two of these $10 tables and some acrylic sheeting as well.
anything that prints the temperature marked on it. PET varies by manufacturer, as it appears they change the glycol content (hence PETG). It's ultimately the extruder that determines what materials you print, and that be easily upgraded.
jesus, just looked it up, the fuck does that thing cost over 2 grand for?
if your talking about making a printer, i would point you at this http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13860
was in stock when i got it, 350$
the reason i got it is because if shit hits the fan, and this thing dies on me in some way, every part has online documentation and i believe the motherboard is one used in many printers too, so building a new one from the parts you get would be possible, if not just repairing what broke.
if you want a from scratch build it all depends on your budget... i was considering for a while repurposing printers and scanners to make a 3d printer as they have much of the more expensive parts you need, but people toss them fairly easily so you can get the parts for very cheap.
i have been thinking of getting a big bucket/container to put on top of my printer, i think for me that would keep it hot enough to do its thing, if you really needed more insolation though, 2 buckets with some fiberglass or foam in between may do the job, just not able to see the project unless you add some kind of window and lights... but that reduces how good it would be insulated...
this is true for almost all these printers. They tend to be variants of the prusa i3 and the replacement parts are easily found. for the cheaper sets, first thing you should probably do is print yourself a replacement set of all 3d printed parts.
the printers from>>924081
do come with an sd card containing all parts, 'drivers' and 'programs' and png's of the assembly instructions.
what says 2.85mm?
ok, got some time to look into slic3r and cura more... and i found this out.
the cura i'm using is 15.04.3
i found out that lulzbot has a cura that is 17. who cares.
downloaded it and tried it... it gives me a raft, that looks allot like the butterfly picture.
got slic3r set up and looking at its raft... it looks like it just a solid chunk of plastic, what i was trying to avoid dealing with as the first thing i made stuck to the bed to damn well,
so im wondering if there is a new non branded cura than what i found, or if there is a way to make the slic3r raft nor a solid chunk of plastic?
i have the exact same printer. It is pretty nice printer for the money.
Two things though
Auto bed leveling sensor is nice but you can get a cheaper one on ebay (just search for induction range sensor, they go for like $6)
get a nice flat big thick peace of wood and bolt the printer to it. The frame will be much more rigid and will shake and vibrate much less during the print. Printing at higher speeds like 80mm\s will yield much better results.
Here are some upgrades I made for mine.
I have it in small room. so I can easily heat up the room to about 20 to 25°C even when it is freezing outside. If zou have it is a bigger room and you are unable to heat it up making an enclosure would be a good idea.
I want to build a mini one (100mm in each direction) out of aluminum extrusion over spring break. They seem to be good (comes down to your operation of the machine), but kits are strangely expensive and uncommon. It's one of the few you can build without any laser cut parts.
>using screws when you have a 3d printer.
3D printing is time (and material)-wise more expensive than using readily-made materials. The whole purpose of it is to replace things you don't have, or come up with creative solutions to problems.
You won't have fun with your 200-hour print time cabinet which could have been made by hand for 1/10 the cost and 1/100 the time from your local hardware store.
I don't know anything about 3D printers, I'm just popping in while browsing DIY for interesting projects. How much 3D modeling stuff would I need to know to use one, and how affordable are ones that could print, like, Warhammer/Warmachines minis? I'm not in the market, I'm just curious as to the state of things.
Did Peachyprinter ever happen?
>how much 3D modelling stuff
A day spent learning Blender or probably any of the free model programs.
I highly recommend /specifically/ Josef Prusa's i3. $599 and excellent quality. You will definitely need to print those Warhammer figs piece-by-piece or with supports, though. Will post a pic of the quality it can do in a while.
>I highly recommend /specifically/ Josef Prusa's i3. $599 and excellent quality. You will definitely need to print those Warhammer figs piece-by-piece or with supports, though. Will post a pic of the quality it can do in a while.
Source the parts yourself for a rework or P3Steel and get better quality for the same price.
you are probably going to want an sla printer over fmd if you want minis, or one of the projector printers... are those still sla?
the problem with fmd and minies is there are tons of small things that can make a flaw on a 3d art piece, they are small but don't really ruin bigger pieces, but if you are use to the stuff from games workshop, there isn't a chance in hell you will be satisfied with an fmd printer.
to that end, the peachy printer is the cheapest one you can get, i have NO idea how good it is, but looking at the prints they are a step above most fmd prints but it looks bad when compared to better sla...
if you want good mini prints you are probably going to be looking at 2000-3000$ and 60-150$ per liter of resin.
from the wiki
Since patents have started to expire, affordable home printers have become possible, but the heating process is still an obstacle, with a power consumption of up to 5 kW and temperatures having to be controlled within 2 °C for the three stages of preheating, melting and storing before removal.
unless you mean power binder plastic stuff, id still imagine making that viable is a nightmare without precision machining... not something thats simple to do with a production line without qa at every step.
i could build a fmd printer, you want me to build an sla i could do that, but i highly doubt my ability to build or even repair a sls printer.
My understanding it that it also has the disadvantage of requiring lots of finely powdered metal, which in addition to potentially being a huge mess can also be a fairly significant safety hazard (not just particulates, but the fact that finely divided metals can be pyrophoric). Full disclosure: I'd still give my left nut for a titanium capable SLS printer.
for metal printing, don't they usually have an argon atmosphere?
and yea, for health reasons they are bad, for safety... you are dealing with a printer that is at least 5kw, that should scare you if you are in a normal house, not to mention the cost of the powered material itself, something you think would be cheap or at least scrap metal price due to lets say someone machines something wrong, that big slab of steal is now only as valuable as scrap metal where as when it was a solid piece of steam it was 50+ grand.
but no, the powder is at least last i checked several times the price of it scrap.
not necessarily, there are printers that use a binder and than a kiln but there are also direct lasers that do it too, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sintering
but back to you, i would give my left nut for an all encompassing 3d program that could handle sculpting and precision cad shit all in one, but apparently thats just not possible, id also give my right one as well for programs that wouldn't be needlessly complex in every fucking aspect.
Yeah I think it is usually done in an inert atmosphere (add the cost of argon to the process ... not cheap), and I was thinking mostly about the direct laser sintering versions as opposed to the binder/consolidation versions. I also tend to agree about the software issue: I don't understand why it would be so hard to make blender or something capable of proper parametric modeling (but then I don't know shit about shit when it comes to programming).
Yes, because it's essentially welding.
>powder is several times the price of scrap
AFAIK it's not just powdered metal; plus, you have to have a consistent material to work with and not just iron filings from the floor of Igor's workshop or whatever.
>sculpting and precision CAD
Blender and Blender.
"needlessly" is a vague statement. If you want good sculpting and good modelling tools, you're not going to have an easily-understandable interface.
The argon could probably be re-used, but yeah, that likely adds a lot of cost.
>free proper parametric modelling
Maybe OpenSCAD? I've personally never used it but I've heard good things.
i have honestly wondered it more times than you will likely believe
"why cant this program just BLANK, all i want is god damn BLANK why cant it be fucking right there"
i mean sure, many quarks of a 3d program you can learn to work with and its not that big a deal once you know what you are doing, but that initial opening, followed by an entire what the fuck is this thing, why is this labeled that (i'm looking at blender specifically where it has from my understanding horrible documentation and inconsistent naming that makes no sense even to people who know what they are doing in the program) and why cant all this be here.
i mean sure, you can call them pro programs, and when you do that you can throw user friendly out the goddamn window too.
last thread i made a cap for soda cans, i used freecad for that i believe, i figured out how to model add the edges, add the height, of each one, and than i moved to another section and i selected each edge individually and i joined them together. the process if i had to do it again would be VERY fast, though it took me about 2 hours to figure out i could do this, this is probably the EASIEST way i have come across in recent years, i know a good 16 years ago there was a program so easy my 12 year old self could animate in 3d with no real problems, i honestly thing the programs have gotten more complicated without ever thinking of user friendliness due to the professional nature of them.
as for the argon, its 4 times heavier than air,
it could be reused, and im sure there are better methods than what im thinking, but you could pull the models out from the top and not need to vacuum the argon out.
I say this as a longtime Blender user and as someone who tried to get into Maya recently:
Fuck Blender, but fuck Maya more. At least with blender I can use hotkeys and directly interact with vertices / edges / faces. With Maya, there was /always/ SOME bullshit about how I don't have the right tool out, or how I'm doing X the wrong way, or how I have to navigate through like 10 menus by mouse to do what I want, etc.
While I'd like to learn Maya, I just don't see how I would. Blender's simpler features are simple for a new user to learn. G grabs, S scales, R rotates, shiftA adds, DEL deletes (and Tab for object mode). That's pretty much good enough to get started making simple models and stuff.
>programs have gotten more complicated
Because of all the "features" they cram in there that people who have been doing this for those 16 years know how to use, but the new users are just utterly lost with.
>4x heavier than air
Forgot about that. I'd think you'd need to have some sort of enclosure just in case, though, buy maybe not.
oh yea, airtight enclosure no doubt, but if you have it in like they do an open fish tank, you would likely at most lose 1/4th to 1/3 of it due to people walking by, i assume the printers suck the argon out to a tank or something before they open for people to take shit out.
and i have used blender the most of any 3d program too, seriously fuck blender and its devout user base who refuse to even try to make the ui more manageable. they don't want change, and apparently people in management don't want to change it either from what i hear "blender is for blender users"
now of all the programs i have used, i think modo may be the best poly modeling program you can get, mostly because its the newest and has the most modern ui.
on a side note, once you know the blender shortcuts that program gets a lot better, but lets be honest, how many shortcuts are there and how badly is that program documented?
>how badly is it documented?
Very. Most of the help I get is from forums from googling. Their own reference documents are frequently outdated (seriously, who would use the old 5 year old version of FREE software, with literally less features than the modern version?).
>devout user base
Haven't heard much about it, but honestly for a lot of people the attractiveness of Blender is the low price of free vs. usually 500-1000USD+ for a modelling program (with paid yearly/w/e updates), so it's not a surprise it has a large but poorly-educated userbase.
I'll look into MODO, but it's 1200GBP, so I'll hold off until I have the money for it or get enough time + skill to thoroughly test the 30day version.
i have no issue with pirating programs due to how much they cost, they don't expect non professionals to use the software, so i try everything. if you have to pay, i believe there is a monthly subscription version that is 24$ a month, or 16$ a month if you pay in bulk.
with blender, sure its free, but bigger studios and even somewhat tiny ones have no issue with shelling out the 4-5grand a program just to have guaranteed working software thats well documented, and due to that, you see more plugins worth a damn go to paid programs over blender.
i wish blender was better, i love the idea of it, but damn when it comes down to just functionality without being a devoted user its hard to get into it, though like i said above, if you cant/wont/sell your work, its hard to argue against.
also, look into Aartform Curvy 3D
i dont think its great, but it has a few tools that i don't think other programs either have, or are as good as... i was looking into this to use as a base model program for zbrush.
Just mentioning peachy makes me laugh. When it was first released, they promised a 100$ printer. Now you can buy a 100$ laser pointer board and some sticks with a tiny nozzle.
OK, here's the deal. Almost every 3d printer build requires... A 3d printer. Pretty fucked huh? I have a bunch of supplies to build a printer sitting around. Controls, steppers, belts, pulleys, etc. But no frame or linear axis.
Without a way to build a frame or moving axis, how the fuck do you do it?
I ended up buying pic related. I'd like to build my original from wood, but cannot fucking figure out how to make an x-y chassis that will move evenly and be driven by belt. Does anyone have pictures of linear track ideas, be it metal or whatever, that are DIY?
linear bearings and smooth rods. There's another option using roler bearings on poles (6 bearings in a delta configuration)
either way, it will be cheaper to buy the kit if you don't already have a printer. An alternative is also the mendel printer, where you can make the connecting blocks out of wood to later upgrade.
The kit is still better.
I bought it. I still will build my second one. At least now I can build linear bearing mounts to make it easier. Is there a benefit to leadscrews over linear bearings? I noticed the one I bought appears to be all leadscrew driven.
>leadscrews over linear bearings
I don't think you entirely understand what either of these do.
Lead screws provide motion. rods and bearings provide the guide along which motion happens. Very rarely do you see any cnc machinery with just a lead screw.
Plywood is your best best, but it's not a very good option.
Laser cut aluminum or steel would be loads better, as might maybe acrylic.
I'm not sure what you're saying - do you have no parts past the hardware for the pic related? X axis is pretty standard across all printers; the extruder head is mounted on a frame and moves left and right. the i3's Y axis is pretty good and smooth, pic related.
Read this post after I submitted mine, point still stands past the hardware bit.
Ths. Are you thinking of maybe leadscrews and threaded rod? tl;dr leadscrews use less force(?) and are designed for machinery, so they'd be perfect for the X-Y axes. Threaded rod slightly binds and resists unpowered motion, so would be good for Z axis.
Yes, I dun goofed. Meant to compare leadscrew vs belt.
Essentially what I was looking for is accurate alternatives to steel rods and linear bearings.
Yes, but laser cut anything is much harder to come by.
Also, as I stated above, im looking for the 'ohh shit why didn't I think of that' answer to replace the linear bearing and rod standard. These are a bit more difficult to align, secure and use then the future replies to this post will lead you to believe. For example, a drawer roller slides back and forth, has holes already for mounting, and are flat and skinny for easy mounting. Unfortunately they are also wobbly as fuck.
>lasercut is hard to come by
There's a site that I've had bookmarked but never used, BigBlueSaw, that supposedly does LC and water-cutting services. Possibly look into that?
There's also probably a reason why linear bearings and rods are so popular. I'm not sure how they are "difficult" to align; just make sure you have two base pieces with identical cutouts, put the bearings on, snap/attach them to the base pieces. Alternatively use a caliper if you want to make sure it's exactly X by Y mm or whatever.
The next closest thing you might find, if something exists, is something manufactured from a low-friction or friction-reducing coating that has 2+ V grooves that slides back and forth, but I've never seen anything like that (probably because it sounds impractical as hell and the rods work fine).
They're popular because its the correct way. DIY often involves improper ways of going about things in the name of cost cutting and availability.
With that said, I've never actually looked for linear rod and bearings locally; would a hardware store stock them? Also, after you acquire these parts and mount them, you still need a way to mount things to it, which is another major issue with diy 3d printers. Often these mounts are printed, which isnt a viable solution to a first timer.
TONS of hardware. Costs, too.
Hardware stores might stock rods, maybe not bearings. Haven't been to ACE Hardware in a long time, but I remember they had more "specialty" things.
Anyone have expereince with 3in 1out nozzles? It would be so nice to mix colors while printing
Also what are your thoughts on having a single Z stepper on a prusa and driving the other threaded rod with a belt?
Optos for endstops?
>increase the weight
You dont have to have steppers on the carriage. A PTFE tube can feed the filament from the stepper to the carriage. pic related
It does work, seen some like that. I was more curious about experiences about this.
3 in 1 adds dramatically to the weight, as you also need 3 heat sinks in addition to a bulky nozzle.
Check the reprap.org forums for belt coupled z-axes (it has been done successfully).
Opto endstops are great, but the firmware configuration can be a bit of a pain.
from what i understand you assemble the laser thing yourself, they supply the software and parts to make it work, you also need to build your own container for the fluid, not included...
are they bad printers or just disappointing considering what they could have been?
I think it was well intentioned but pie in the sky. I'm not defending it, per se, but it is potentially pretty much as advertised, which is to say an ultra cheap, really quite inventive, SLA printer technology platform.
For some things, in some situations. Sure.
If your hotend is doing x and y movement and your bed does z movement you will get much better quality at higher print speeds. (like with ultimaker 2). In standard i3 the difference is not that big since you still need to move whole print bed. Also Bowden sucks for flexible materials.
There is also the advantage that, if you're using a heated build enclosure, you have one less motor to potentially overheat if you can situate the extruder motor outside the enclosure. I do agree though that for anything other than a corexy or h-bot type system the moving mass of the bed negates any speed (really acceleration) improvements that one might get from removing the mass of the motor on another axis. For delta systems, you don't really have a choice other than to use bowden.
just looking at the prints it makes and the method it does to do it... fuck no.
the peachy uses sound so at best there will always be some jitter by that.
due to the way its built i would also assume jitter can end up there, and because the level is all approximates based on water levels, its all approximate there too,
the difference between the peachy and what they show and a proper sla printer... night and day.
however, peach and a fmd... thats another story, the best fmds i have seen prints of are between 20 micron and 50 micron, well calibrated and with prints that know their limits, they can get amazeing results they would be better than the peachy... but these are a minority, very expensive, or require someone who knows their shit inside and out to get those results.
the peachy seems to get better prints on average than what a normal 3d printer will do, but it doesn't have the cleanness of a 2 grand sla, or one that uses a dlp projector.
ok im going to post a few images now.
i was trying to make a pokerchip a while ago in pla at 210 degrees, on a raft as my soda can top was a nightmare to remove
well here is the result.
first off, we figured out the raft issue, its likely a bug in the newest version of cura, the center is what printed... what happened was cura started out at 2.85mm and i thought i set it to 1.75 but either it reverted or it never accepted the 1.75mm
what i got was a raft that looks like its mesh and a see through poker chip... a very cool effect, but not something thats useful
to the right of that, you see the one that printed when we put the right pla width measurements in this one... flawed in another way, ill get to that next image also take note of the thing on the left.
this is the best shot i can get, i have no macro lense
this was at 210 with pla, there isn't a chance in hell of this base coming off, its welded to the god damn thing. now with the butterfly it just snapped right off... and i'm wondering why, so i assume that its due to heat, so i just shrug my shoulders and go to sleep.
meanwhile my brother gets impatient and tries to print off an ear bud holder, pissing away the last of the pla. however his is on a raft and has supports,
needless to say most of the raft comes off by brute force and what doesn't gets ground down, and he ran out of pla about 70% into the print, we also found out that it was to small for the earbuds he uses... pissed at him for this. but it showed me what supports are like and the cleanup necessary for those... need to get a torch lighter for the purpose of cleanup to make it shine again.
now we come to the more recent tests and what i came here for today.
the far left was done at 180c
it creaks and it will pull apart if i try, but it works, and it came off the raft very easily.
the middle is 190c
this one fucked up the raft and that fucked up the poker piece, and because my idiot brother pulled it off and not me, it was alreay split. in two
the right was done at 200c
the raft is more or less perfect, and was easy to get off,
the chip, while a bit harder to get off the raft, was still simple to remove, unlike the 210c which is never coming off.
however you should be able to see it, you can see where the supports are on the print because the areas not on the support are bubbled up...
anyone here able to tell me what i can do to fix that bubbling, or if there is any other help they could give? i dont really want to waste pla that much with experimenting if there is already known solutions.
When you buy a new filament from a different manufacturer, need to print a coupe calibaration cubes at different temps to see what temp is the best. The previous pla I had was printing good at 195°C the new one need 215°C
For perfect printing temperature I suggest this guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSOPsRiiOZk
For bubbling: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#pillowing
tl;dr: more infill or more top layers or more cooling fan
Are you using active cooling on your prints (i.e. do you have a fan blowing on the plastic just as it exits the nozzle)? PLA benefits greatly from it, and it looks like maybe your middle samples might be suffering from a lack of it. Also, I'm not sure why you bother with a raft; for PLA I usually use glue stick on glass, a brim, and something similar to pic related to gently separate the (well cooled) print from the glass.
adjust your raft settings. play around with the raft interface and thickness.
I'm still using 14.03, but pic related are my current settings for raft and brim.
I only ever use raft when there is something that will have shitloads of support on the bed. Brim works nicely on everything else, although can be a bit more of a task to clean than a well calibrated raft. Also, I find a raft prevents warping better than brims. Not sure if anyone else has noticed this.
A razor blade (one of the trapezoidal ones) has proved VERY useful in helping me to remove prints. You've got to get the angle as low as possible, and you can't have any "safety" things on it (such as a guard or handle), but prints slide right off.
I just got a Rev F printrbot, set it up, did those test squares, made a shroud for my fan, everything was fine, quality seemed better than I expected, I was actually really surprised it was that easy to set up.
Two hours later I try to make some other shit and it all just fell apart. I can't even make test squares anymore. The nozzle either splurts shit out and it gathers on the head or nothing comes out at all, and it always drags the print wherever it goes. I don't know what happened, I didn't change anything so I assumed from google that the nozzle was was clogged, so I did that cold pull thing multiple times to try to fix it- nothing comes out with the filament and it still won't fucking work, please help me
Check the tension on all your belts and nuts and whatnot. Also maybe check the teeth of your extruder hobbed bolt and see if there's little bits of filament. Otherwise, welcome to the world of 3d printing (it's fussy as hell).
>check the teeth of your extruder hobbed bolt and see if there's little bits of filament.
Yes I knew I forgot to mention something
yeah it's almost like they're shavings. I don't know how they got there.
Also after having a break from it for a couple of hours I decided to try it one more time and I can't speak for the quality as the print is still ongoing but it's not dragging and the filament is shooting big loads like it was earlier. I have done literally nothing to fix it so I've no idea what is going on- could you explain the significance of the shavings around the extruder though?
The shavings usually mean that it's grinding the filament, but the cause can vary. It could be as simple as the tension pushing the filament against the teeth is too high and or it could relate to your retraction settings (among other things). Expect the first few weeks to involve much tweaking. Regardless, I'm glad it's working again for you.
My only experience with Makergeeks was around two years ago buying a couple of PLA variety packs to try out different colours (translucent and glow in the dark). The filament was of poor to average quality (visible blobs of pigment not well dispersed in the polymer for the translucent samples, for example), and the price way too high.
that is the specific printer i have, on the 4th image you see some screws, so i have a few problems
1) how do i get the glass to lay flush with the printer bed? do i just sacrifice a bit of area?
2) how do i make the printer see the glass bed as zero or where the start point is? im sure i could do this given time looking into crap but i have no money to realy waste right now if i fuck something up.
and as for why raft?
a thread or 2 ago i posted a soda lid i designed and printed, that thing stuck just a bit to well with the tape i have on the bed, to the point that the second thing i made ripped the tape up, and than the headphone thing my brother printed the tape came up and got cut instead of separated... thats when i experimented with temperature.
going to print a few things directly to the bed instead of on a raft, but the main purpose of the raft was to make removing it from the bed easier.
i have a question for the glass, does it have to be specific glass for a 3d printer or can i go to a hardware store and get something maybe 3-5mm thick cut to size?
i only got 3 test prints with an older version of cura to work, going into the settings wasn't a priority.
got 56 of the things new over christmas, along with 100 exacto blades, if i move away from tape and get glass ill either use that or the scraper that came with the printer as i think its fairy good.
as for the cooling fan, the printer has one i think, but i also think its not really seated on there is not the most optimal way either.i don't really want to fuck with the printer itself till warranty for it is completely gone, but i think i could add a small thing to direct the air down.
Alright guys, I recently got my hands on a Velleman Vertex K8400.
It doesn't have a heated bed, but I'm going to add one, and I am modding it to hold an E3D as a second extruder. The control board is a 3Drag, and it has pins for all of this.
Any thoughts on this printer? Has anyone used one? There aren't really any reviews.
It's a neat looking rig. The only potential downsides that come to mind are the lack of a heated bed (as you mention) and using polycarbonate as the main structural material; I haven't actually seen that done before. Please keep us posted as to how it works out for you.
I think it's a corexy variant - I have a similar homebrew system in the works (see pic related; I get distracted tweaking other printers, so it's a long-standing work in progress). I think it's fairly common and is implemented in systems like the Ultimaker.
>built my own printer from scratch, a la prusa i3 but in a wooden box frame
>everything is either thrown together out of wood or a few aluminum/printed parts that i bought
>everyone thinks that 3d printing is hard to get into/learn or takes a lot of money as an initial investment
i probably spent $200 total on mine, it has a 200x200x80 print area, the height sucks but i'll fix that in my next iteration
going to be building a new custom design one next, but with leadscrews on all axes. anyone have any experience with that? i have enough NEMA 23s to run 4 (2 z, 1x 1y), and i can safely keep the print carriage on a 17, unless i move it off-track as bowden, i'll put a 23 on it
>waiting for w2 so i can drop 150 bucks on 80/20 and screws/delrins
can't wait, i'm thinking of 24x18", gonna be super slow with the screws, but ultra precise
Here's my all leadscrew monstrosity. X and Y are NEMA 17s with integrated screws and the Zs are also 17s but with metal couplings. It's not as slow as you might think, and it works like a dream (it also makes sweet robot music when running, although it's not terribly loud). Google "Robotdigg" - it's an outfit out of China that has a pretty good selection at fairly reasonable prices. They ship DHL, so that adds $40-50, but I've had good luck with them.
yeah, people get so amazed if they see something i've printed, even though it's not that big of a deal to make
that's pretty sweet, probably like how mine is going to look. i have a guy in michigan that mills his screws/nuts that i've bought from before
how's your precision?
>1500steps/mm vs 80
i'm hoping the level of detail will go up massively with that precision, especially on a smaller nozzle. also, why is your build plate so small for that? seems like you could get a lot more room by shrinking your carriage size
also, are heated beds just a meme created by ultimaker and makerbot? i have no problem printing hatchbox ABS with support on blue tape, no sanding
steps/mm vs 80
I get about 10um theoretical resolution in x and y (I have pretty much the same setup as the fifth poster in http://prusaprinters.org/forums/topic/steps-per-mm/), which is not hugely better than a belt driven system, but seemingly adequate for fdm. I'm using 3mm filament for this system atm, making bowden less desirable, and my carriage size is largely dictated by the extruder. Honestly, I just kind of hacked it together with the pieces of drill rod I already had, so I'm sure it could be more efficiently done (hence monstrosity). That said, the whole bed surface is accessible as it's set up, so I'm cool with it.
I always use a heated bed and glass or PEI on glass (+gluestick). Seems more versatile and uses minimal consumables.
what's your nozzle size? 0.4?
just printed this, came out okay - i have a rack mount fan chassis next to my printer to act as the cooling, this is the first time i've printed with it running
any opinions on the print or waht could be improved? it's 0.2 layer height
6 12v fans sounds like a wind tunnel
>tfw can't run them on pwm because the fan board has a low power beep tone
having an issue with my printrbot.
No matter what I do, the filament curls up straight out of the extruder. Not even trying to lay it on the bed, just testing it in air. I've checked the nozzle and I can't see any blockage, I've tried various temps. Anyone know what else I can try?
your filament is either not nominally sized, or your nozzle is blocked
if you have any resistors lying around, you can use the leads off those to clean it out, for a 0.4, they're like 0.37 or something
just thread it through either way if you haven't cleaned it
If you are using PLA oil your filament for 3-5cm with olive oil and extrude that before starting the print. That will oil the nozle and give you good prints for 3-10 hours.
How feasible would it be to design and print some paintball guns based on the seburo from GitS?/What are the major things I'd need to worry about?
are you talking about functional guns or models? if they're just for models, you can get away with the following:
>no need to design interiors
>can be chunked up to glue/adhere together
>models can be ripped from the game
i'm not a gunmaker so i don't know the engineering behind the inside of a gun, but i would imagine it would need to be extremely precise, with lots of springs and parts that would be under a lot of stress. i assume this is for a model though, so probably just rip it from the game and cut it up and convert it to an stl
Yeah 0.4 on the leadscrew beastie atm (it's the only hotend I have that can run 3mm filament), but I have a few other hotends ranging from 0.3-0.6mm for 1.75mm.
I think your print turned out great. There's some very minor z-banding, but that's almost unavoidable. The only thing I can think to suggest is that if it's ABS an acetone vapour polish would give it a nice, shiny finish and smooth over many minor imperfections. Like I said though, it think it looks great.
yeah, i can't wait to come into some dirty tax $$ so i can set up the new screw printer
and thanks about the print, i don't even know how i'm able to get a consistent print like that when my printer is so jury rigged it isn't funny
I'm fairly consistently amazed by how fault tolerant FDM is. I've had any number of prints where something buggered up quite badly early on but that ultimately resolved itself after a few more layers.
I'm a big fan of pic related; a couple of drops of vegetable oil (I like corn oil just because it has a higher smoke point) on a sponge inside keeps things lubed and also takes any dust off.
I think PLA benefits the most from the lube, but all filaments can benefit from having dust taken off. I try and use a dust filter all the time (except when I forget while changing filaments).
My experience has been that anything less than ~1/3 of the nozzle diameter turns out crappy as it'll drag on or overly remelt the previous layer. Typically I'll stick to some relatively even number slightly larger than 1/3 that is also a multiple of my z-steps (0.15 for a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2 for 0.5mm nozzle, etc.).
I get you, but I meant like generally fault tolerant. Most people have this idea that you need super high precision robot magic, when in reality you can get a way with a lot of play, misalignment, etc., etc.. Some of the junkstraps out there are absolutely hilarious but can still turn out pretty decent prints.
i dunno, an FDM printer might not be great for printing something that small, it could, but a DLP printer might be a better idea. i don't have any experience with them but the way it lays materials seems like it would be more accurate at a higher resolution
opinions? i think the bumps on the side of the boat might be from moisture in the filament, but i'm not sure. anyone have any ideas?
i wanted to ask about 3d printer price and if they are good or any experience that any of you had with the printer.
flashforge creator pro dual extrusion $1650
flashforge creator x one extrusion $760
are they any good? is the price of the 3d printer right or they are too expensive? should i get one?
It looks very shiny, what kind of filament are you using? My (off-)white ABS prints are a little bit reflective but nothing to that degree. Did you print that with or without supports? The little cabin turned out nice.
>flashforge creator pro dual extrusion $1650
I got the duel extruder, but it only set me back $1200. And I got that because it was a well rated and cheap printer for a duel extruder with that print volume. It's pretty reliable, but I haven't done any duel extruded prints other than my first test print. It's really kinda unnecessary unless you plan on mixxing materials. It is convenient tho to have 2 different filaments loaded, so there is less loading and unloading to switch between them.
lol, yeah, like i said, the duel extruder really isn't necessary unless you plan on mixing materials, like printing Ninjaflex and ABS, or using HIPS as a support material, or something like that. Otherwise, it's not worth the extra cost.
So I've got a personal 3D printer that I'm going to use for school projects; I've got a chance to request some filaments on the school's budget so we can print things (and not use the university's ridiculously expensive printers, which involves a lot of paperwork and wait time).
Can anyone recommend some decent 1.75mm filament that I should try out? Only requirements is that it's ABS and shouldn't be more than ~$20 / kg.
buy hatchbox filament from amazon. it's literally the only filament worth buying now for ABS or PLA, it's like $25 a kg
you arent going to get anything that prints with a decent quality for under that honestly
Joining the master race in a month or so when I get around to finishing it
And is this true? Or is it engrish? Does it smell like cotton candy?
ABS smells like ABS, its pretty distinct and if you have ever melted it before. Like cutting something made of ABS with a dremel or a saw. You may already know what it smells like.
And PLA is hard to describe. I have only used decent quality USA made PLA, so chinese stuff may differ.
But to me its a pretty benign smell, I guess you could call it sweet.
But its night and day difference between the two, and common sense can tell you right away. ABS attacks my nose, while PLA kinda creeps up on you if you are in a closed room printing for hours.
it's pretty rag-tag, and is mostly built out of wood. i'm the guy from before who wants to switch to all leadscrews though, i put a break in my replies on accident
the print area height sucks because of the way i built the extruder carriage, and it isn't very accurate because i didn't have any woodworking tools when i made it other than a hand drill and some jewelry files, but it produces pretty okay prints, like
i have a "build log" thing on my website too with more pictures of the construction and stuff
depends on how big of an object you're trying to print, mine is 250x250x80, which is shitty on the height, but the ultimaker axis standard has a lot higher build area than the prusa i3 build
shoot for like 200x200 or bigger, with 150 or higher build area - you ideally want to make a cube or tall rectangular prism within reason
or you could just go full meme and make a delta printer that has a build height of 1000mm and an "xy" build area of 31415
if you've not worked a jigsaw before just make sure your straight lines are good and square, they don't seem necessary on a lot of the finished design so you're best off leaving them or you could just use a rasp and sand paper you'll get a better result although it might take a bit longer
or just try to leave a little extract material around the curves and sand them down to make them nice.
I'm the guy with the velleman vertex, and I'm currently building the damn thing.
It uses a 15V power supply. Does anyone recognize this board? Can I just run this shit off of 12 V?
In an ironic twist, due to the same reason (difficulty surrounding printing at my school; they use exclusively stratasys uPrints) some of my cohorts and I started up a university 3D printing service to so the weird shit like PC or wood.
Since we're always looking for advice, what do you wish you had access to? Any advice for us or things you wish we would do?
It's not one of the more common ones that I can recognize (obviously not ramps, not rumba, not mightyboard, not azteeg, etc.). It shouldn't hurt it if you feed it 12V and it's rated for 15V (at least as far as I know).
Yea it has one by the screen, but I'm just using octopi anyway for it
Update. Frame is finished.
The panels are polycarbonate, not Acrylic, so they don't bend. Also, the black parts are all injection molded not printed like prusa or lulzbot.
There are a hell of a lot of locknut screws. My arm hurts.
Yea I know.
My other printer is a repstrap (that would be a nice tshirt) and I learned quickly that I don't want to waste a computer on it.
Nowadays, I hot glued a 1gb SD card in, and I upload long prints to that with repetier.
why? when you say long prints, how long do you mean, like 8hr+?
i have a dedicated server with a UPS backup and i haven't had any issues with repetier crashing or freezing yet, i couldn't imagine it would do it either
i think my longest print is about 6 hours though, so i could be wrong
I'm at college, so any print longer than an hour is cutting into my class shedule, and I need my laptop.
I could hook it up to my desktop, but all my repetier settings are saved to my laptop and I'm too lazy to move them
if you are only printing a shell, and you are retrofitting a paintball gun into it, i would say its very doable, if you want to 100% print the parts and use nothing from a stock gun, i would say doable but next to impossible with anything made from a home printing setup.
should i invest in makerslide for my next printer? the 1000mm slides are about 60 dollars for the entire rack/slide set, and i'm looking to make a pretty big printer this time
is makerslide or a CNC cam roller slide the way to go on on printers larger than 500-750mm^2 of build area?
I asked this a while ago and got no response.
can i use any glass for the heated bed or does it need to be special glass?
because if it can be any glass, i can avoid the needing to find one to fit my printer bed perfect, it would just reduce the 200x200x180 to maybe 180x180x175
because i just got a 3d printer last month and it came with one, also when heading up pla it also heats the bed up, could turn it off in software but really see no real reason to.
also the glass would be bought from a hardware store where they would also cut it to size.
don't really have a scanner that's broken for this right now, and it takes all the risk of me fucking it up out of the equation.
picked up a few of these short glides last year, but i haven't found a use for them yet
should i design a little printer (like 75x75xN volume) and print the parts for it? my only concern would be the hotend size, but these glides are great, zero play at all in them
oh okay, well you don't need a heated bed for PLA even though some people swear by it, and it's not really that big of a deal to print ABS "irregular shapes", aka nothing flat on a cold bed with painters tape
what did the bed come with already? are you trying to increase the build area? if you can use a solid piece of aluminum instead of glass, i would do that instead. see if your hardware store or local metal shop can cut you a thin like 3mm thick piece to your specifications
with aluminum you don't have to worry about shattering, it's easy to clean, it doesn't scratch like glass, and it will never break. the only bad part is you have to account for expansion when you bore the holes through, so it has to have a little bit of wiggle room to expand a few thousandths of an inch, however, if you're just using binder clips or something to clip it to your heated bed PCB, you don't have to worry about that at all
3mm thick aluminum... did not consider that as an option, i don't want to do that on the printer bed itself (i believe its aluminum too with a heating element on the underside, but i don't want to print just on that in risk of doing something stupid and fucking it up)
does pla stick to aluminum well?
does the heat help it stick or is it a non issue?
is shattering the glass a real concern?
as for expanding my build area, if anything i'd be decreasing it due to less vertical space, and also less horizontal/vertical because the screws for the base stick out about 1-2mm... you know what ill check it right now and know exact numbers.
the top of the screw is 1.5 mm exact higher than the prin bed, and the screw is about 5.6mm in on both the x and y axis, so if i called it 7mm just to have some wiggle room my bed would now be 186x186 i honestly cant imagine printing something were more than 150x150 would be necessary, hell, now that we are talking about metal instead of glass, i'm thinking of even having the bottom corner removed just so it can home easily without a hassle too.
just did a little looking up on the glass people use, it seems that the consensus was normal picture frame glass shatters, or can shatter, and it leaves shards... my printer is in the basement, and if it does break on the printer itself, its not to much a hassle to clean up, and if i drop it... well more of a bitch, but for borosilicate it would cost me 35+$ and i would have to cut it myself.
so yea... this is where the impas is, i'm not sure, the cheap part of me is saying fuck it go with glass and see how easy that shit is to break, the other part of me is telling me fuck it, both options are to expensive just deal with the tape ripping off constantly because it holds the pla just a bit to good.
That is why you use masking (yellow) or painter (blue) tape on it. It is cheap, and prints stick great to it.
Alu plate is great since you can easily use proximity sensors for calibration on it.
the printer i have is specifically this
and the reason i'm looking at glass in the first place is because the tape is a pain in the ass to deal with. what came with the printer was 2 massive pads of the stuff. the first print, i wasn't expecting it to stick that hard, second print ripped up the tape, third print ripped up some more tape, so now we are printing everything on rafts because the bottom layer if i had to guess is only 25% of the total area and comes off fairly easy, but i see it as a bit of a waste of plastic.
the glass itself is to get rid of the pain in the ass removal is.
i am a bit interested in the proximity sensors though, are they just click switches when the printer gets close enough to an area or is it something else?
Aluminum doesn't scratch but glass does?
Well I m using 100mm wide yellow tape ($5 a roll that will last me at least two years). So I need to apply only two pieces to cover the print bed. It usually takes me between 5 to 10m to change the tape. Depending on the print sizes ( a shallow bigger area prints will ruin it quicker) it last me around a month. IF tape is damaged at one place you just print at the other side of bed. You will always need to maintain your print bed. It doesn't matter what you use. Glas need cleaning too. Also ALu plate will have much better heat distribution if you plan to print ABS or anything that need heated bed.
And Proximity sensors are great IMO. They are used to make your print bed perfectly parallel to nozzle. Since your print bed is not perfectly parallel to your nozzle, you set up a grid of 16 point (4x4, can be more or less). Before the print starts the sensor will measure the gap between it and print bed at grid points. It will then use that that measurements to see where is the print bed tilted and adjust the z axis during print.
As far as I have been using it, it works great. IT also makes calibrating bed manually very easy.
the proximity sensor would be great, if i built the printer myself.
i didn't and it's still under some amount of a warranty, so i'm not really interested in touching ripping it apart to do shit like that, though that is definitely going to be how my second printer works.
no, but it does seem like it required me to crack open the psu/motherboard area and also dick around with firmware, not something i really want to do on something that i didn't build from scratch unless it was broken.
beauty for me was if shit goes tits up after the warranty is gone i can salvage a bunch of parts, also the whole owning a 3d printer that i can easily make little bullshit that would either cost me time or money to find an equivalent of. getting to know how to use them, knowing the quarks, things that could be improved improving them, when necessary...
for me right now bed leveling was one and done, i'm 10-12 prints in and haven't had to recalibrate it yet, im guessing ill do it again when i put down new tape, but it doesn't seem like such a pain in the ass that i would want to dick around in firmware to do at least as i see it right now a minor upgrade.
however, a glass print bed, and either some stick glue/hairspray/sand it down a bit, would a massive upgrade from my perspective.
>5mm aluminum plate
It will scratch it, but horizontally it would be extremely difficult to scratch aluminum with a razor blade. But you can always sand aluminum down. Can't really say that about glass.
Because the thickness of the material is totally related to it's hardness. I'm not saying an aluminum build plate is a terrible idea, but glass is much easier and borosilicate glass is flat and will not shatter unless you hit it with a hammer. The notion that you would ever have to sand it is absurd.
Personally I think you got a great deal (but I also think you'll probably have to but another ~$150-200 into it to get something reliable enough for you to be happy with). Ignore the haters.
I wish there was less paperwork involved and more knowledge about the program. As is, only one professor (out of 50+) is "in charge of" 3D printing, and students that don't know him well need to get a fair bit of paperwork done and processed (which could take weeks) before the professor would /consider/ meeting with them. I would say that the simplest possible form should be:
>Layer thickness (if you want to make it variable)
Plus maybe a few other lines.
Something that would help you more than it would help them is maybe set up a Google Forms where they could submit links to their models for verification that you could actually print X and it wouldn't result in a mess because someone decided to print a 2cm horizontal overhang without supports.
I don't really know what I personally (as a student) would enjoy using such a service - maybe ETA on how long a print would take, or which number I am in queue, etc.
This very much. My first printer had an SD slot, but no screen, so I have no idea how the company that made it intended for it to be used. My current printer came with a screen and an 8gb card, and it's just so nice when I can put the printer in another room with a socket instead of right next to me and hope that my computer doesn't crash or freeze on a long print or something.
Nice aluminum build plates are milled to be very flat, you'll never be able to sand out a scratch in order to get it flat again. Glass is popular because it's cheap for how flat it is.
I figured I'd be throwing money at it anyways. What sort of things will I probably be upgrading? This is my first printer, and I just finished building 5 minutes ago. Will do the software part tomorrow.
I'd say in order of decreasing priority:
1) a better hot end and a printed geared extruder (look for Wade's geared or similar on thingiverse; you'll need to buy a hobbed bolt and some bearings)
2) replace any printed couplings or gears with metal ones
3) I was going to say leadscrews for your z-axis but looking at your picture you already have them (you got a decent deal)
4) maybe the frame; I've never used acryllic structurally so I only have anecdotal evidence that it's bad
Just off the top of my head.
i wish, at least that would be funny, remember those political hats, the stereotypical ones that are really short, simple, like lincoln's top hat but 1/10 the height, they are tan... that's closer to what i made than a lincoln hat.
it should be a raft and a poker chip but the chip welded its ass to the raft.
Yea the whole idea behind our business is literally "3D prints, 2- 3 days, delivered to campus, no paperwork, no bullshit."
Because the industrial design lab at our university only has one stratasys Dimension SST, they have to buy the filament from Straty for $5 a cubic inch.
We buy our abs material for like 40 cents a cubic inch and sell it for 2-3 with PVA for support. We also use PLA, PETG, PC, Nylon, and HIPS for different costs.
So far we have in the submission form:
> name and email in case they fuck up or submit something stupid.
> part upload
> dimension check with units.
> need by a specific date?
With an Advanced options dropdown:
> nozzle size (.25-.8)
> layer height
> acetone bath?
And the last page is order review and payment With Stripe API.
We never thought about an ETA, but that might take some shinanigans between the printer operator and the one handling the orders on the website backend. So far we have a dominos pizza tracker-style thing with the submission/processing/printing/awaiting contact/delivery.
Aside from ease, anything else you, as a student, might find interesting? Electroplating? What would you like and about how much would you be willing to pay?
Looks good, your form is pretty detailed and comprehensive.
Best not to ask me what I'd pay, seeing as I have my own printer and k.is actual vs. profitable costs. Good idea making it per in^3; their own fault if the part breaks due to underfill. Would have cost them the same.
Ever heard of "3Dhubs"? Sort of similar to what you have but would let you upscale your operation.
What's wrong with my print? The one on the left is PLA, and the right is ABS I bought recently and am trying out. 255/100c nozzle/bed, as recommended. Don't even know how to start troubleshooting.
It only works with ABS, but The way I do it is I take a airtight container from Walmart or something (made of glass), then you line the bottom with paper towel.
After that, print (in PLA) a sort of "table" to put on top of the towel that holds the print above but out out of contact with the towel.
After that, get some pure acetone (nail polish remover, $4 at CVS), saturate the towel with it, seal 'er up and wait about 3 - 6 hours.
Works pretty well on its own, but it's better if you sand it beforehand. It makes the surface of the print squeaky smooth, but might wreck tolerances and fill in small holes if you leave it in too long.
Nozzle is okay, I switched back to PLA and it works fine. Would slowing the print speed work? Or am I boned? It's really going to suck if I can't print ABS here, since I just ordered $50 of ABS.
I use a big, wide-mouthed pickle jar and a wire rack made out of heavy guage copper wire with a piece of carboard wrapped in tin foil to keep the bottom of the print from melting. Keep an eye on it: the ABS keeps "melting" for a few hours after you take it out of the vapour bath, so it's easy to overdo it accidentally. The surface also very soft after the treatment, so you have to take care not to touch it lest you leave fingerprints or tweezer marks or whatnot.
TLDR: practice with models you don't care about.
Did you tell the printer that its 1.7
I literally know nothing about 3dp but for fuck sake I know that if its diameter is smaller there will be less volume.
Another anon said something about under extruded? As in not enough material had been extruded. As in a smaller volume. As in a smaller diameter.
Put 2 and 2 together please anon.
The printer needs to know what material you are using and the size of it to work out the feed rate which is different to the print speed
0.05 does have an effect. But could also be the material (polluted and slightly wet) and the nozzle temperature. You also need to adjust the print speed when printing different material.
i want to print this Banana thingy but OpenSCAD keeps insisting it isn't a valid 2-manifold and dosn't want to export it, any Ideeas how to fix that, or to force OS to export?
i like autodesk inventor, but I'll buy solidworks the next time I find $9000 in the couch cushons.
Also, what about Onshape? It's a pretty well featured normie-CAD software and it's free. You can only save 10 parts so you have to cycle them out but had anyone tried it?
Just download Solidworks and a crack for it, nobody is going to know or even care.
I design with Autocad 2015 just because I already had it and I don't feel like downloading 10 Gb just to do the same thing a little more efficiently.
Update on the velleman
Got it built and added a V6 because >muh PC.
Printed out a 1" cube measured as 1.000" on caliper.
Mechanics feel wrong but actually work pretty well. Material sucks and some peeling, but that's my fault.
Started my first print today, failed. Started peeling. I'm using thermal printer paper tape. I know its not painters tape, but the rest of the print is pretty good. Eventually it just broke free and got dragged by the extruder. Will buy some proper tape tomorrow and try again.
you don't need a heated bed if you aren't printing PLA
use painters tape and make sure your nozzle is 0.1mm from the bed, use a sheet of paper to check
chrome is more resource intensive on my computer than solidworks, but solidworks is nigh unusable without a modern video card for sure
yes, a feeler gauge is ideal for checking your tolerance across the bed, but a sheet of printer paper works too as long as your nozzle doesn't haveany stuff coming out of the bottom
i do this for ABS and PLA without a heated bed, just on painters tape. the heat from the ABS plastic breaks down the adhesive for the tape i think, so if you print a large area it kind of ruins the tape and you have to re lay new strips, so i only do it after my tape is pretty banged up
currently using repetier with cura combo
this is my opinion of the current slicers:
slices fast as fuck, has decent customization but lacks support features, lacks infill features and doesn't have the ability to fine tune things
way more functionality and customization, everything is changeable. downsides? holes come out massively undersized (almost within a mil), slicing takes way longer and the prints are scaled about 20% in time, even after fixing the cooling fan issue
i was thinking about switching to simplify3d since i have it and never use it, but the last time i loaded it up there were like a billion options and i didn't feel like setting another slicer up, so i just stuck with cura. does anyone have any opinions on using simplify3d vs cura (in regards to printing time)? i bought it because it's apparently great for doing mechanical prints, but i haven't tried it yet
After having used Cura, several iterations of Slic3r and even Skeinforge, my vote goes to Cura. It's the easiest to use and gives acceptable results. I can't be bothered to try simplify as I already have something that works to my satisfaction. Just my $0.02.
aight, time for my first post in this board. If i'm doing something wrong....ill just heed the hailstorm of "gtfo noob".
Ive gotten into 3d printers lately, and i'm thinking about constructing my own. not buying, i value the experience and learning as much as the actual machine. does anyone have any information on how to build a simple, working hotend? or is there no way around buying one?
just buy a hotend, you can build everything else. i did it over the course of a couple of months and the experience was invaluable, the amount of stuff you learn is vital and i can't really imagine how people that just buy 3d printers are able to troubleshoot them or fix them
i bought the geeetech mk8 hotend, it comes with a heatsink, fan, hotend, and nema 17 with hobbed bolt for like 45 dollars off ebay, people will probably talk shit about it but it's pretty good for a starter setup and i don't really feel like there is any reason to upgrade it unless i switched to an off frame bowden extruder
a hotend is a very simple item.
it's basically a aluminum tube with fins and then you have a chamber at the end with a thermal rod right beside it with a thermal resister.
I wouldn't suggest making that. Mostly because there's nothing to be gained by doing so. If you have a alluminum capable cnc and a leth you could do it however.
yeah you could make it but you're going to end up buying the thermistor and the heat cartridge, along with the aluminum that you would have to mill and the nozzle that you would have to bore a 0.4mm hole into, insert a teflon tube that you'd have to buy, along with turning threads on it on a lathe, in addition to having the steel tube that's fully threaded with a hole bored straight through for the filament
it's cheap, make everything else frame-wise and buy that
Might be of interest. I have 5 or 6 different kinds; I'm partial to authentic J-heads and an all metal type called Prometheus. I also recommend avoiding random Chinese ones ($12 is only a deal if it doesn't jam every 3 minutes).
not a regular on /diy/ and i dont know shit about 3d printing
but my brother is working at a university lab which has a 3d printer, cnc cutting machine, and a laser cutter for metal
says i can make something for free if i want
what do i make?
I meant more of "What do I use to correct the values and where?". On my old Printrbot, I could use Pronterface to update the extrusion values, but here I just use Slic3r to slice and an SD card to transfer. Pic related is really the only option I can find in Slic3r that has to do with extrusion rate. I can't find a setting that changes the filament diameter (at least not directly).
Why is this? I didn't know it made such a difference.
Well, silly me, I guess I must be blind or something. Thanks.
i can get a 2. gen Xbox one kinect for cheap. So i wonder how useful is for using it as a 3d scanner
yeah, i think i'll put it on my late 2016/2017 printer. my 2016 main one is going to use dual extruders, i think
other than using linear bearings with polished rods, what's the best/cheapest linear motion guide? makerslide is about $60 per 1000mm which includes the rails and wheels/carriage, so that's not too bad, but i'm open to options if anyone has any other ideas
>Building another printer.
>have E3D V6.
>Turn on extruders for testing
>Holy shit, it smells like burning ABS.
>Run ABS through.
>Starts smoking like crazy.
>it's only 230C, wtf?
>measure hotend temp with external thermocouple.
The fuck kind of thermistor does the E3D use? How did I fuck this up?
No idea with regards to what thermistor an E3D uses, but usually when I'm breaking anything in I start slow. Why, you might ask? Because otherwise you run the risk of lighting things on fire.
first time printing a single piece moving part, everything came out pretty good
how hard is the platform jack to print?
To be honest, my knowledge ends here.
On the link it says that for Marlin you should set it as #TEMP_SENSOR_N 5.
If you have some other firmware and don't have option for 100k NTC thermistor, than maybe you could copy table (I think is a table, I highly doubt it is an equation) from Marlin and somehow insert it in your firmware. I have never done it and I do not know if it will work.
If you have some random thermistor I guess the only way is to calibrate it yourself and make your own table. For that you would need heater and another thermistor for reference (or thermocouple or something)
~$250 if you want to build your own printer and source your own parts, ~$500 if you're okay with buying a kit to build (which is fun and I recommend doing, they're very easy for the most part), ~$750+ if you want a ready-to-go printer.
This is just what I generally remember from doing printer shopping recently. I'd recommend buying a kit if this is your first, and can personally recommend Josef Prusa's i3.
Well, there actually is.
Unless you know the material of your thermistor or have some data points to get the coefficients a,b,c, you're probably better off grabbing a proper one and working with it.
Just got my kit for 238. Prusa i3. Built it and started printing. It comes with filament and everything, including most needed tools, minus a decent pair of wire strippers and pliers.
I don't want to advertise the store I bought it from, but Google 'electron prusa i3.'
has anyone here built a DLP printer from scratch? if so, how was your build difficulty and what's your resultant quality?
been thinking about making one, would love to hear from someone who has actually made one and not a sponsored blog post
I have a question if anyone can answer, is it possible make base object let's say cube that's 3 cm x 3 cm x 3 cm in a CAD program then take the STL file over to something like 3-D coat and sculpt it then export it as a STL or OBJ file and printed and it will be about 3 cm x 3 cm x 3 cm or whatever I sculpted out of it? I'm trying to think of complex shapes that would honestly be easier for me to get measurements for and then put them into a CAD program, but the amount that I'd have to learn to be able to make them perfectly in the Program I'm thinking of just making a base object in and sculpting it. Does anybody know if this would work?
Ok, more or less I want to make a handle that would fit my hands perfectly, taking the correct measurements would be easy, and modeling it on paper would be easy, but putting that shit into cad... fuck my life.
Could I make a base file in a cad that is a rough shape, then transfer it over to something like 3dcoat, sculpt the pain in the details, and export a obj or stl with the same relative measurements?
My hands are shit today and I tried using dragon to avoid the pain.
where did hatchbox come from? are they chinese?
they completely came out of nowhere, where the market was led by sainsmart and makerbot and other "top tier" manufacturers, demolishing the price market for filament
I personally do not like hatch box because is is very low quality, it is cheap though in the mid 20s but a much better brand is esun3d filament, it is also a Chinese filament maker like hatch box, but it is as good as the makerbot filament for sure, if you are getting pla esun had recently came out with a pla+ filament, it is about 24 compared to regular pla which is 20, and it is very good, well worth the extra 4 dollars
>>929872 here again. Made a few more test prints, and they're turning out progressively worse. Second on pic is the same as the previous pic, different angle (100% speed, 1.70 diameter). Third is with 50% build speed and filament diameter set to 1.70. Fourth is with 100% speed and 1.65 diameter since it looked underextruded again - it's fucking falling apart. Fourth I just saw wasn't going to turn out well and stopped.
Is the filament really 100% to blame for this? Is there nothing I can do to get at least a /passable/ result? I doubt that the company I bought this from would stay in business long if this shit is what comes from its products. I know it's not the printer because I'm getting good results with PLA, and even my old PrintrBot did better than this with ABS.
210/50 for PLA, and 255/100 for ABS. The bed temp is fine (or good enough) since it sticks, but I don't have any tools on hand to measure the extruder temp. Last time I checked it was within 1-2 degrees of what it displayed, but that was for 210.
That's very odd, because the factory settings are what I listed above, and I'm seeing recommended print temps of ~230-250 for ABS.
Would ambient temperature make a difference? It's been ~18-20 in my room while printing, but I just turned up the heat. will see if I can get it up to ~26.
definitely going to have to look into that program, not sure what sculpting ability it has, but it looks like i can find some applications in doing some of the stupider shit i want to do.
I know that I need to calibrate it, I'm just wondering /what/ I need to calibrate. More and more it's looking like extrusion rate; see pic related for two prints I made last night. The perimeters/walls look fine, but the first X and last X solid layers are so thin as to be transparent, or even rip off when I remove the part from the bed.
So something I've discovered is that the ABS roll touches the frame when printing and doesn't "unroll" like the PLA roll (hanging) does. Maybe the force needed to unroll it is causing this. I'm going to look for some longer filament roll arms, but does anyone know of any good ones (for the Prusa i3) to save some time?