Alright, not sure if it belongs here or /o/, but we're over here trying to remove this wheel bearing thing for 2 days now ourselves. I'm not an auto guy, just trying to help the guys who are. Pic related. We can't get this thing off. Any suggestions?
We tried banging on it, pb blaster, using bolts to apply pressure as seen in pic related. Even tried using the vehicle itself as a makeshift press. We're out of ideas.
I'm pretty sure you have to remove the driveshaft first, which probably means unbolting the steering and suspension knuckles so you can swing that out some to make room to pull the driveshaft out. As is, enjoy your trip to the wrecking yard to find replacements for the parts you've completely destroyed in your ham-fisted attempt to dismantle this.
>auto repair gore
I think I'm going to be sick.
Screw jacks/jacking bolts.
Get a hex head bolt and nut.
Cut the bolt till it just fits in the gap between the hub and flange.
Put hue nut on the bolt, insert into the gap.
With 2 wrenches, unscrew the nut, pushing the flange out. Move the bolt (or use multiple bolts) and repeat.
Flange will be pushed off little by little.
hydraulic pullers with a flange that bolts right to the hub using the wheel nuts work great but they're a little pricey
the /diy/ way is to weld together a puller from the heaviest metal and biggest bolt you've got, wind it on as hard as your impact gun will go, then sledgehammer the head of the bolt until the hub pops.
i made pic related for ecoboxes with 4-stud drum brakes, you'll have to go bigger for yours. you'll want to engage at least 3 studs. grind a little nub on the end of the bolt so it self-centers in the hole in the end of the driveshaft.
Its a pressed wheel bearing
Remove the whole knuckle and put it into a press.
You are going to have an interesting time putting the new one on without a press too
You are going to need a new Hub now too obviously. Hopefully you bought a hub and wheel bearing assembly that are already pressed together.
Its easy to ruin them, and have them fail 10,000 miles later.
I put a bar from the hub into the car somewhere and used the power steering hydraulics to do the work but it sounds like you might have already done that. i also go a long piece of pipe and went from the other side of the car against the back of the hub and hit it with a sludge hammer until i came.
iv also just taken the whole thing off and worked it on a bench
You have to disconnect the steering knuckle, swing the hub outwards and then remove the axle from the transmission side. Only then can you pull it from the hub. Impact hammer and splitter forks are useful and oh yeah, a torch for the real stubborn shit.... I think you might be in over your head.
Me? Yes, I don't understand half the shit y'all are telling me. I'm relaying all this to the guys working on it though.
We do have new wheel hub bearings ready to install, which is why we're beating the shit out of the old one.
We might try using the steering axle as a make shift press again since taking off the knuckle for these guys is not an option. Fire wouldn't hurt at this point either.
at this point you're gonna need an entire new hub since it's been beat to fuck. seriously the easiest way to get it off is to just use heat. if you don't have a torch you can buy kit for like $30, you don't need anything special just a regular soldering torch. heat the hub for at least 5 min or so and try to work it off, if it doesn't move heat longer
tell them to put the big nut on just to protect the axel threads before they go tapping on that. The axel could be holding onto the hub. Also, ETCG website is a good reference for this repair. He has a video of him having a hard time getting one out, and sometimes those are the videos you need to see.
Side note, I'm glad I have one truck with old school wheel bearing and the other is a sealed hub that you can't press in a new bearing.
Trust me, at this point I wish it was oldschool. Just glad it's no longer my vehicle. New owner was warned about this problem, but insisted on getting it and claimed the guys working on it would have it done in a flash.
my advice would be renting a hydraulic bearing puller.
pre-tension it with the puller, and gently heat the frame, not the bearing hub.
then start tapping the bottom hub with a steel hammer
't should slide right off the splines
This. Nothing beats the right tool, especially for pulling bearings. You always think 'pssh, I know bearings. It's just pressed on there, I can pull it off with my DIY concotion'
Three trips to the hardware store, some time on the welder, and like 12 broken bolts later, you go and rent a gear puller. Then it pops right off.
"Well I loosened it for you"
I helped my bro change an old school bearing on his truck. We over torqued because we went by bad info off the internet. Later when the bearing failed again, we bought a puller. It shattered. Sent the truck to a mechanic after that. He finally got a Haynes for the correct torque specs.
It doesn't matter for a lot of cars unless it's something that needs meticulous attention or unique to a car. This is a basic front wheel drive econobox front end, anything from that era in that category is virtually identical.
YOU DONT NEED TO REMOVE THE AXLE SHAFT FROM THE TRANSMISSION. That's stupid anyways because you'll still need to pull the bearing off and with the axle where it's at right now it's not getting on the way.
Only possible issue I can see it that the shaft is still connected the bearing. If it is and the nut and cotter pin haven't been removed bolt the bearing back in place. Pull or cut the cotter pin. Make sure the car is perfectly stable on Jack stands, no jacks for this. If you have never broken one of these before you may be in for a ride. You'll need a breaker bar and appropriately sized socket. Sure, you could use a zip gun, old rule of thumb amongst some mechanics is never use an impact on an axle nut because the vibration and extreme force can damage the bearings inside the axle. I don't do it because I've seen enough people break the nut trying to get them off and on with one. Use a breaker bar, it'll be harder, but if you use the right socket you won't fuck it up. You won't find a new one locally, they only come with a new axle. You'll need to find a pull it yourself yard and use a breaker bar anyways there.
Anyways, some come off easy, some are a pain in the ads, perseverance cool head will get it off. Next is removing the spliced part of the shaft from the hub. My go to method is a baby sledge direct center to the shaft with a properly placed prybar on the back side. Not too hard, usually small taps will loosen it enough for the prybar to do its job. Now take the bearing off. Hitting it too hard could damage many things. Be careful.
If that doesn't work, rent a jaw puller from AutoZone
Get some heat. Get a lot of PB blaster. Get a solid block of wood that you can place over the axles stub, and a hammer. Or, if you have an air compressor and a dull pointed air hammer, you can use that on the center of the axle stub.
Heat the fucker right up, and spray it with PB blaster. The heat will suck it in where it needs to be. Rinse/repeat a couple times. Take your piece of wood and put it over the axle stub, and beat the shit out of it.
You WILL fuck the threads on it, and you will never get the castle nut back on.
How those work is the axle has a spline on it, as seen here >>922284 . This is, without a doubt, the reason why its stuck on there. Now, you don't have to move it a ton, but its going to fight you the entire time, and you are going to hate it, but eventually it will pop off.
Also, evaporated PB blaster smells like shit, you've been warned.
He probably won't even need the torch, I don't think they took the nut off yet. It looks like they've been smacking the shit out of the old bearing for days, that's probably busted apart any surfaces that rusted together. I've never needed to use a torch for one of these, not saying it's never needed, but I would use it as a last resort. Well, thinking about it, they would probably only have access to a propane torch, which wouldn't generate enough heat to damage anything close(unless you're completely reckless), but may not even have enough to affect the area they'd want to anyways. Mileage may very, but I wouldn't bother with heat or blaster until I tried removing the end of the shaft with basic tools. Good call on protecting the shaft, I've seen many less experienced guys wreak havoc with that one.
Well, to be fair the only reason heat is involved in this process at all is to help draw the penetrating fluid into the splines.
Honestly if OP comes back and says the nut was still on its going to surpass that idiot who fucked a left handed nut trying to take it off left.
I've pulled MANY rusted suspension components piecing together used vehicles for a car lot.
Remove the entire spindle assembly and the axle with it, then deal with it in-shop since it's beat to shit.
For other Anons whose nuts are still attached, I'd try a LONG cheater pipe on a strong breaker bar (NOT a ratchet!) which usually breaks them loose. You can always punch mark then drill the nut to weaken it and spread it with a sharp cold chisel.
I have a collection of chisels welded to random hunks of rebar or rod stock as side handles so I can beat the shit out of them with a hand sledge when shearing obnoxious hardware and frame rivets, but you can hold chisels with visegrips to keep your fingers out of the way. WEAR EYE PROTECTION.
It is much faster to remove assemblies than fight them in place. If you don't want to fuck up ball joints, remove their nut then strike the sides of the part they bolt through with large hammers (pein or hand slege) at the same time like so, arrows indicating direction of strike relative to the tapered bolt hole. ---->O<-----
Da vibes usually pop them right out and you rarely need the destructive "pickle fork" tool.
Good salvage-fu will make your repairs and parts pillaging fun instead of frustrating.
Works alright if that's all you have on hand, but you can get a solid breaker bar from harbor freight for less than the cost of a piece of pipe. Pipes used in home plumbing aren't designed to take loads like this, them doing so is incidental. I've seen a couple pictures and heard a few stories from when they don't withstand the load, not good. You're also assuming these guys have a shop with the proper tools to remove pressed bearings, and taking the entire hub off with the axle is a horrible idea if you don't have a means to plug the trans. It works if you're fine with moisture or dirt getting into your trans, and then refilling any trans fluid that happens to leak out. That will prove to be incredibly fun for these guys if it's one of the later model transmissions that makes it damn near impossible to fill without a pump, the ones that don't have dipsticks where the only way to know how much fluid is in there is by monitoring how much you put in and by checking the pressure at the trans outlet to the cooler(or a test port in the odd vehicle where no transcooler is installed). It doesn't matter how beat up that hub is because they're trying to swap a hub/bearing assembly, it'll be gone and replaced with a different one once they finally get the old one removed.
Oh, I vaguely remember that. The lawnmower blade? Things like that would make not at all surprised that they've been smacking this thing with a hammer because they think it's seized, when really it's still locked down
With the spindle unbolted at top, bottom (remember it's under some spring load) and disconnected from the steering, pull outward and the axle should pop free from the transmission. If not it may need some help from a prybay. Be careful what you pry against.
The brake line may be clamped to the spindle. Free it first so you don't damage it.
Unless the trans is pointed such that it will pee on the ground it will likely be fine. They can plug the hole with a CLEAN non-fluffy rag.
Moisture and dirt don't just magically jump into transmissions, not even in fire-ant mound infested and humid southern Amurrica where I did years of such work.
I've used plenty of random pipe cheater bars. Never broke a pipe, broke some cheap breaker bars now and then. Bar plus pipe gives CONTROLLED leverage. Since you must apply the SAME amount of torque to free the fastener regardless of your lever length, a longer lever is much more controllable.
I've pulled at least a hundred spindles between removing old ones and installing other old ones. If salvaging your parts, pulling spindle with axle saves work on the reinstall. Inspect rubber boots, replace with split boot if torn, ensure all accessible areas are wiped clean, stuff that bitch and press on.
If they have a very recent oddball without a dipstick they shouldn't lose enough fluid to be a problem and can service it afterwards.
If they know absolutely nothing about cars it's time to buy a cheap Clymer/Chilton/Haynes manual.
You're bragging about using improper tools and buying used car parts, do you realize that?
Also, op never said a thing about replacing the axle, why bother taking it out of the trans.
You're a retarded shade tree mechanic trying to act like you know more than you do and giving off bad advice in the process. That's fine if it works for you, but don't go out of your way to teach somebody the wrong way of doing something.
Happened to my moms evo. Had to replace the axle and hub assembly. You will ruin the axle trying to get it apart. Just my 2 cents. The out end of the axle will pop off the rest of the axle to make it easy to get everything apart. Gotta wack it just right. Then replace both parts. Your done now and can finish your beer.
Mechanic here. On those fuckers the bearing assemblies get incredibly stuck because the knuckles are aluminum. Every time i have done one of these i have had to take the knuckle off and use a shop press. Normally you can just beat them with a hammer. If you are anywhere near central ohio i can help you out.
Take off caliper, rotor. Take off axle nut, put it back on so the top of the nut is flush with the end of the axle. Smack the cv shaft inward until the nut hits the bearing, take the nut back off. Take off the 3 13mm nuts holding the assy on the knuckle. Hit the bearing on the side of the hub downward, backward, forward. Once it's as loose as it looks in your pic, tap the axle a little while pulling/holding the bearing. Watch out for the abs wire. Unplug that first. I've done dozens and dozens of them. Some get kinda stuck, but I've never used heat (i work 10 mins from the ocean), and slide hammers wont work either. I've tried, it just splits the bearing apartn the hub and 1 row of balls come out, then you have nothing to hit with a hammer.
Some of those hubs do have pressed in bearings. ETCG has a video of him changing one. Looked exactly like OP's hub. My hub looks the same, but is a sealed hub. Sealed hubs cannot have the bearings changed.
On a different point, he looks like he messed up his ABS wire.
Yeah, but not that one. But, live n learn i suppose. Fortunately, most are bolt on like that anymore. They're shittier but at least they change easier. Chevy/Buick/Pontiac/Oldsmobile all have that same exact wheel bearing in almost all of their vehicles from like 98-08+. I think it's the same part # and everything from cars to minivans. Maybe the abs connector is different.