made this knife from old saw... do you like it?
can you recomend some more material for knife making
I also did one but the result was not as good as yours. I used a saw blade too, it's nicely sharp!
Files are very brittle steel. You should anneal them before working on them, then re-heat treat it later.
Don't worry about ruining the original temper, since that will be way to hard and brittle for knife usage anyway.
Also, make sure you are using a knife shape that has a lot of thickness along the spine. This will help compensate for the brittle steel.
like OP's? $10, tops
its functional, but crude as fuck.
for a start, the use of scrap metal is a big fault.
Get O1, get 1095 or 1085, heat-treat it properly as a knife. Using recycled steel is a fool's game, you have no control over quality - you cant tell what steel it is, so anything that gets it hot is turning it into a lottery as to if its right.
Aesthetically, its just plain crude, the blade profile is incredibly simple, the grip has very little shaping (though I hasten to add it is well done - most amateur jobs are really crappy, so its crude but _good_, which is not to be sniffed it - OP clearly has an eye for finishing and detailing that, with practice, could see him make some really good stuff in the future.) the rivets are also pretty damn crude, and could do with improvement.
Here's an example ripped from a group I'm part of, just one maker, Yaroslav Hrybinets' version of a drop point/skinner. Note how its got subtle curves and arcs in the grip and the blade, the polish on the bolster, the rivets are seamlessly integrated into the grip. the blade profile has tapers in the tang, so it balances in the hand better. the grind profile, too, is far more complex, a long flat grind with plunge cuts, rather than OP's rather short scandi.
Its those little details (and big details, like choice of the right steel) that make a good knife worth a lot, and a poor one, very little
here's what I meant by the sectional profile having tapers - you can see its not just a flat sheet of metal, but has swelling and narrowing along the grip, to move where the weight is.
Puukko, which I gave to my grandfather. Laurin metalli 69 mm blade, bought from Brisa. The handle is made from reindeer antler, poplar and leather.
You can go to a junk yard (pick-n-pull) and buy a leaf spring from any car, they make good blades.
Also read up on this guys work..
Not OP but I have been asked to make a knife for a friend and I have a 600 x 500 x 6mm sheet of C67 / 1070 pretty average stuff I understand at 0.67% carbon but how would I heat treat it?
I have read so much shit about the process I don't know which to do.
heat to 800 degree C and quench in oil?
Ok so now I just read that water would be better for a knife.
One more question is 6mm to thick? I have no interest or knowledge in knifes but my friend and his farther collect them.
I can get my hands on any thickness C67.
water - specifically a high concentration brine water - can be used but it depends on the steel. generally speaking for a blade, however, water is going to be inviting the tink fairy to visit and break your work. Water straight out your tap is an almost certain blade-breaker.
An aqueous polymer quenchant is water-based and technically better than oil, but its expensive as hell.
Generally speaking, 10XX steels, O1, 51XX and the likes are all best quenched in oil.
D2 is forced-air quench but has a far higher quench temperature and tempering cycle (triple cycle, usually), which makes it far harder to get right.
W1 is a water-quenching steel, but its not common.
regarding thicknesses, 6mm for an average knife is insanely thick. you might get that on a fighting bowie, viking seaxes or medieval rondel daggers for war, or the likes. not a general knife.
As a general rule, I'd say about 1/2 that thickness is normal for most knives, and filleting or chef's knives might be 1/4 that thickness.
OP here.. this kind of metal you dont heat treat
because you will only lose on quality.
in this alloy manganese is used and it is prodused whit maximum quality in factory..
this material is very hard and hold the blade well but only for blade no more than 13 cm.. after 13cm it starts breaking..
I'm the dickbutt with the C67 plate. I know mines it's not been heat treated due to it's source; my farther. I just get the scrap sheets that are bent/warped or deep scratched and offcuts.
Letting it cool in just the air (or coals of the fire as some people do) can cause bending due to uneven cooling, some people reccomnd pushing it into a bucket of sand and letting it cool there , I've had good luck with that myself
Building a new charcoal forge soon and a small mapp gass one aswell
>200 lbs of Antracite coal free on craigslist taken in 12 hours
Fuck I would have called him last night if I didn't feel it was too late to call someone