Post your stuff and any tips
Made this today, was supposed to be a larger bandsaw box but I messed up some of the doors so I salvaged it and made this.
For removing sanding marks, nothing compares to pic/filename related
Bessey clamps are brilliant. I thought clamps are just clamps until I tried them.
i got some 70+ year old pine from a church I was working at and made this.
I messed up a few joints cause my table saw was off and I didn't know it.
Higher the grit number the smoother the finish. 60 grit on a power tool is only good for removing a lot of wood quickly. You want to use 150-220 at the end. I don't use less than 120 on my power sanders because it doesn't take long to sand with them anyway.
A Pair of Yellow Cedar deacons Benches.
Mortise and tenon joinery
This is some of the wood being cut/sized
The completed frames plus the glued up boards for the tops.
Had to get those planed at a woodshop for the cost of a case of 12 Sleemans
Can some anons help me out here?
I'm a poor fag with some old sand paper, manual tools, some small screws, and shipping pallets.
How can I make money with this? Cut up the pallets and make small boxes? Maybe a dog house? Perhaps some chairs? I'm not sure where I can even sell this stuff, local CG? I live in a shady area.
You're not gonna make money woodworking unless you put some serious time and a fair amount of money into it.
Literally everyone's making pallet furniture, so it's an extremely flooded market. Eventually the trend's gonna die off.
If you want to make real money woodworking, you've got to do it full time and produce enough of it to satisfy retailers, which means you need workspace, workers, tools, suppliers, et cetera. Even then, you're probably going to have high overhead.
You can make a little bit of money building furniture to sell at flea markets, but you're not gonna be making a whole lot more than what the materials cost.
Build furniture as a hobby, not a career. It's not something that's that profitable.
Do you make your own scrapers? How do you hold them? Are curved glass scrapers useful?
Never heard of this, but love card scrapers for the reasons you mention. Can't imagine ever going back to sanding.
How deep of a bookshelf?
Why oak? I have two 8' shelves that are just knocked together out of 2x6 pine board. Any sort of solid wood looks pretty stately in the age of particleboard ikea bullshit. Especially if you stain it and throw on a coat of poly.
If you're new to woodworking, choose a common board length. Bookshelves are a classic shop project for this very reason.
I think I meant 1x, that's easy to find cheap, and will suit. Measure your books! And remember that a 1"x6" board is not actually those exact measurements. Just bring a combo square to the store with you and use your noggin.
Matching the finish will do for matching your other furniture, unless you're doing a really high end designer ensemble. I'm just a poorfag who likes to fix up old bullshit so YMMV.
Just a test run with my new box joint jig.... The fingers fit so nicely I might just cut the top off flush with the shorter pieces and glue the lil nigger up. If only I didn't cheap out on the shittiest plywood known to man (The 'Sandeply' crap at home depot imported from Ecuador).
Next time I'll make a box with some nice Finnish Baltic Birch 1/2" ply.
Thank you, Mr. Oriental Man of Woodworking for making the jig a complete success.
>they told me you need an Incra fence for this much accuracy
Rocking chair made of white oak. used 2 x 8 trailer boards this type of oak is less expensive than furniture grade wood, it is also air dried, this makes it easier to steam bend, also has more character, carpenter ant tunnels, knots and figured wood
I made an outhouse.
Actually I made two. They were for /k/'s nuggetfest and were made cheaply with material salvaged from my family room remodel.
I'm actually pretty proud of these because i was able to make them in such a way that it was a simple effort to take them apart and put them back together on site.
any tips on setting the width and distance of the little block bit that aligns the fingers for the next cut?
do you just trial and error on a scrap piece or is there some incredibly simple trick to it that makes me feel retarded when its explained?
Not him, but
I made the tab just a tiny bit narrower than the dado, then cut it in two. One piece got glued into the jig, the other was used as a spacer. I set the spacer block flush against the tab, then positioned the jig so that the dado blade just barely touched the block. Then clamped the jig against the fence.
Router bit, block, and the space between them should all be the same width.
Distance between the dotted lines should be the width of the piece of wood (so you can start the reverse image that will fit into the first).
I don't know man.
It's some Harbor Freight POS.
Changed my life though - I don't know how I ever lived without it.
There isn't a problem that can't be solved with a series of router grooves.
>should all be the same width.
i appreciate that they should
but how do you get the block the same size as the bit?
usually with these things there is some trick that gets you a perfect block without measuring or mucking about that seems like magic until you realise its the most obvious thing.
Can I repair my table or cover with something?
I've got a project I need to complete in the next month or so, it's a sword case for my father (to be filled later this year as a birthday present, with the replica of a sword of his favorite character). Pic is sorta what I'm aiming for.
Most of my experience is with electronics. I've done plenty of woodwork, but none nearly as detailed as I would like this to be. Lots of crude furniture and framing work, mostly, some cheap jerry-rigging and stuff like that. It's gotta be good. My dad probably wouldn't notice, but still... it's gotta be good. My neighbors are pretty experienced with carpentry, but they're all pretty old and senile so (as much as I love and respect them) all they're gonna be able to bring to the table is their tools. Between them and myself, I think I've got any tools I could really need. Any tips? Recommend between glass pane/plexi or something else for the window? I can't imagine anyone horseplaying around it, but with my family who knows. I'd usually ask my dad, but it's a surprise.
Trolling? I'm not even an accomplished woodworker, but most of my projects I've gone 80/150/220/400 depending on what it's purpose is. The desk I'm using right now I did just that, and looking at it right now I can see no score marks at all, just the grain.
Are those nubs supposed to be sticking out like that?
Sorta related, my last project I had like 1/8th inch too long on my semi-finished product, and I just thought I could sand it down... took forever with 60 grit, and still have like 1/16 sticking out. Any better ways to do this? I didn't want to take too much off, so I thought sanding was the way to go.
Wondered if anyone else had built Matthias Wandels screw advance box joint jig? I'm yet to complete it.
Depends what you mean by repair? Make it look like it did before? No.
Make it look similar? yes, but it's far more reasonable and cheaper to get a new table. You'll need veneer, which can be pricey, and you'll need to resurface the table top, but at that point you'll wonder why you didn't just buy a new piece of particle board to attach the new quality veneer to, or even move up to plywood. 3/4 ply is actually only $1 more in my area compared to equally sized mdf.
Can you make it functional but ugly? Yes, varnish/polyurethane/acrylic coats will give you a smooth finish if applied correctly.
I built this back in September. On a 5x8 trailer frame. Ballanced so well i can pick up and move with one hand.
My wife got me a nice old crafstman tablesaw that we found at a garage sale for 100$, has cast iron wings and everything, runs great. Trying to decide what next to get. I have a drill, although its a shitty black and decker from Wal-Mart.
Primarily interested in starting with workshop projects, benches and tables mostly.
Planer. Really if you plan on moving to hardwoods. All it takes is a couple of home depot receipts full of there limited selection of low quality woods for you to want to move to something else.
Cutting boards I made for chritmas.
Really can't recommend the pattern as it leaves so much waste. At least the way I did it.
It's usable waste though than be put towards another similar board but still.
And here they are oil and waxed before wrapping them.
I had plans to start these about 2 months before Christmas and make like 20 of them. But due to make dragging my feet on other projects I only had like 8 days to make them and some other things.
Learned my lesson for next year I guess..
Thanks anon. Just regular wood glue holding them together. The boards are just over 2" thick so there is more than enough glue surface area between each piece to keep them in place. They should be more than stable enough too as long as they're not left on a puddle on the counter top to absorb an excessive amount of moisture or thrown in the dishwasher or something stupid.
What is everyones opinion on Kreg Pocket hole jigs?
Im just starting out in woodworking and plan on making some 2x4 tables and shit.
I really like this thing
I know pocket joints are not for fine woodworking, but I can see how a jig could be pretty useful when doing certain stuff..
At the same time im not sure how much id use it or not, I mean they come from 20$ to deluxe 200$ sets.
What do you guys think?
They're fine anon but you have to understand that pocket holes aren't a substitute for all joinery.
There is a time and a place for them in some projects but they should not be, like any joint your end-all to be all solution. If you want to have any success as a woodworker you're going to have to learn some method of achieving certain joints eventually. A pocket hole might get you going initially, so that said I'd say go for it and get a taste of things but don't settle on it because you have only limited yourself in the end.
But yeah, for now try it and good luck.
Beautiful work bro.
This year I did simple checkerboard maple and purple heart. Here's a pic one of the recipients sent, even though I told that broad to save it for veggies lmao.
I also told them to set them in the window for a few days to brighten the purple since I was rushing last minute. Had to get caught up on paid work that needed to be done before Christmas so I really only had the last week before Xmas to pump out 8 boards lol
I'm looking for a hardwood to make a rifle stock out of.
I know I want something maple or harder, but I was wondering if all woods take dye equally well, or if certain factors increase the efficacy of dye.
Within bounds, almost any wood suitable for a rifle stock will take stain/dye well. Walnut might be sort of an exception, but that's because it's already usually dark and doesn't need much stain. Don't be afraid to mix colors: a little yellow first maybe, some light red after, then a brown for say a longrifle stock. Try it on a scrap first! You ever work a good hard maple, anon? It's as hard a wood as you'll want to work, that's a big part of why most custom centerfire rifles are walnut stocked. Keep your tools sharp!
Gonna be heavy. On a centerfire rifle, sugar maple is pushing heavy, depending on what kind of stock you're planning (target rifle can get heavy unless you're used to it; a slimmer hunting rifle, especially one you're not carrying all day, is probably okay for the average guy). Hey, it's your learning experience, do what makes you happy!
That being said, know that an experienced stock maker will take roughly 40 hours to complete one. Double that for a first timer with a brain, and it only goes up from there. Dude, straight grained walnut is cheaper to learn on, and burns about as well when you get done and it isn't what you wanted it to look like.
I'm setting up a shop.
So far I have crap (but free) tablesaw, bandsaw, miter saw I plan on all fixing up. Recently bought a nice 14" drill press. Also, have a good amount of assorted hand tools.
I'm cleaning out a beat up, old, 12'x30' shed to set up in.
What's some of the first shop related related furniture and jigs that would be good to have?
I'm thinking outfeed table, and a miter saw stand... and then from there I just can't decide.
Got anything, like furniture, jigs, tools that you find just indispensable?
Plan on dropping a little money into this, but like to make what i can.
I also have a nice collection of SYP boards and "whitewood" 2x6,4s, and 2 vises that I plan on making a European style workbench with after the shops furnished; but only after the shop is close to done.
>What's some of the first shop related related furniture and jigs that would be good to have?
Workbench. After that assembly table.
>Got anything, like furniture, jigs, tools that you find just indispensable?
A good miter sled for the TS (for dados, which you can't do on a miter saw to the best of my knowledge). Maybe a tenoning jig.
Best bang for buck clamps?
Maybe just good clamps in general?
Are there any decently priced ones that wont fail?
The Jorgenson or Irwin ones at the local stores are 20$ a pop.
I bought some that look like pic related at big lots, and they all physically failed on me after a while.
I've been using cheap aluminum square bar clamps at harbor freight if you're in the US. They seem to be holding up okay, just don't throw them around. I've grown to like them, they're almost as good as pipe clamps. I guess time will tell if they're worth anything at all.
The rest of my clamps are bessey and jorgenson though. I also cut up pvc pipe to make small clamps and sometimes use wedges to wedge whatever in place as it dries, if I don't have a clamp the right size.
I bought a pack of 6 bessey clamps at a home depot about this time last year. They're about 16" in size. Look exactly like your pic but red/black. I beat the crap out of them and they still hold well.
Bessey Kbody clamps and UniKlamps are the best I've used but pricy. Unfortunately I haven't found a good middle of the range clamp, they're either cheap or expensive.
I used mdf and carefully laid out the entire guitar, then I transfered the neck pattern over a few inches and cut out the body shape with my bandsaw. Filed the new pattern until it was perfect. Used my router with a pattern bit and made a copy then a copy of the copy to get it jussssttttt right. Now I can pump out identical bodies with my pattern/flush trim bits.
As for this shape I used the Ibanez RG basic shape and modified it to my own tastes.
Glad you like it man! Here's the basic shape of the neck, I made a mistake and rough cut it to shape before running it over my router for the truss rod channel. So as it sits at the moment I've got a tiger maple neck with no truss rod channel or fingerboard.
Fucking it up and having to deal with it and find a way to fix it is half the fun though desu Haha. I might just free hand the channel, I can't find a pattern bit small enough so I could use a straight edge.
I absolutely agree that Bessey clamps are the way to go. Honestly, any Bessey clamps at all.
I've tried like every brand and somehow I managed to break them all within a few months. But I've got a few Bessey F clamps that I've had for years.
One time, in a pinch (see what i did there? Har har) I picked up 2 irwin f clamps and I broke them that same day lmao
Seriously, its worth it to spend the few extra dollars for quality.
I have to say also the kliklamps are brilliant too for what they are and quite a bit cheaper than most others.
I use a homemade jib that I attach to my Delta Miter gauge. When adjusted properly, it fits with zero play.
BTW, the plywood there is Baltic Birch, vastly better than regular plywoods. Denser and no voids or knots
Darker woods like walnut are great because they are dense strong but not exceptionally heavy. They also shape and finish well.
Purpleheart is nice looking, I have an audio stand made of it but it is boring
I started with C clamps, added pipe clamps and now some Jorgensons also. You need a variety because all may work but one usually works much better.
I should get some strap clamps as well as some rubber hose to clamp odd shaped stuff
Huge ripoff, I agree. All stores are desu. HD, Lowe's, woodcraft, etc. I don't even buy tools from any of them unless I need it immediately. Honestly I buy a lot of used older tools from CL or if I do buy new I get it on amazon.
Its best to find a local hardwood specialist/dealer. I have a dude that lives a half hour from me that specializes in hardwood and has fantastic prices compared to most. It's just some dude running his business from his house and whatnot but I can usually call him up and get anything I want the very same day. Only once I've encountered him not having a piece of wood I was looking for. I'm in eastern PA, but there are guys like this all over the country.
Purple heart and maple are very hard and very heavy. I use both a LOT in my shop. I personally wouldn't want a field rifle made of it, but if it's just a collector or range gun I don't see why not. Try laminate layers of both and make that sumbitch pretty af.
Another wood worth looking at, a bit softer(~1000janka) but a hell of a lot lighter in weight, is Khaya or African Mahogany. Its stable, works and tools very very well, and is generally beautiful when finished.
Thanks. I have room for a full bed inside with shelf and cabinets that open to the back, and back has a pull out ice chest, sink, pump and 12gal water tank. All cedar lined and 12v lighting.
Okay, I used to be a construction carpenter, and I assisted a cabinet maker for years, but now as a hobbyist in getting into furniture making.
My old boss did a great job explaining technique and his thought process and things like that.
But I've got a noob question. How is poplar considered a hardwood(at least with every resource I've seen on it) when it's listed hardness is less than yellow pine?
harbor freight has 2 kinds at mine, the squeeze clamps (which are shit, get the name brand ones). and metal ratcheting clamps with a screp for persice adjustments.
i really like them. good clamping force, easy to use. feel sturdy for the price, i wouldnt worry about them falling and breaking. just make sure they come with the rubber feet. i grabbed a handful, but one didnt have them, so i have to use scrap wood when clamping with that one.
pic related, i made this... but unrelated to clamps. no clamps were used
has el wire and shit
This isn't terribly special. But walnut headboard I made at work. Looks like a stupidly shaped pallet, but whatever. The slanted boards were pocket screwed and the lowers were face nailed with brad nails. The vertical supports are 2 sheets of 3/4 walnut ply sandwiched together with a nosing on the showing edge.
I just got a vintage bandsaw, Its a 3 wheeled craftsman bandsaw.
I am having cut issues, the bandsaw marks are deep and it squeals.
I think its because it has a LOT of TPI on the blade, so I am going to buy a new one today.
My big question is, can the Tires cause deflection?
They are very old and in not great shape, but they cost more than I paid for the bandsaw.
An Olliepod burl I turned a few weeks ago. I do a lot of woodturning, hope to become a furniture maker one day. My Instagram is charliebaylor I only post things I make. Sorry for shameless advertising.
>I just got a vintage bandsaw, Its a 3 wheeled craftsman bandsaw.
So the ones right after their quality went to shit and they started sourcing machines from Taiwan.
>I am having cut issues
>the bandsaw marks are deep
Please explain in greater detail, I don't know what you mean.
>and it squeals.
Possible a dull blade. Possible worn out bearings. Both fairly easy fixes.
>My big question is, can the Tires cause deflection?
Depends. I've seen tires cracked to hell and the blade still tracks and cuts okay. I've seen tires that look fine and the blade slips off if you aren't careful. Could be the tires, could be the balance, could be blade tension, could be a lot of things.
>they cost more than I paid for the bandsaw.
Considering those bandsaws are worth negative money I'm not surprised. At least the saw was cheap. You should have known better buying a Taiwanese turd thats old that you would need to sink more money into it. If you get it all tweaked nice the saw, on a good day, can be decent. It will never be great. Think of it like a Harbor Freight bandsaw and make better decisions next time. Like asking someone here to browse your local Craig's List for you and spot some likely candidates.
Harbor Freight, as you might have heard, is a store that specializes in fine tools sold at rock-bottom prices imported straight from Shan Dong to the consumer.
For the price of one Bessey clamp I could get 5 or more Harbor Freight clamps.
If you can't warrant buying Bessey clamps then you don't need them. It's that simple.
As you can see in that photo, I've tried all sorts regardless of cost and I'd still rather have that one bessey rather than the 5 China export gahbage.
But yeah, it's up to you, I just gave my opinion.
Speaking of clamps, I made myself some cauls to assist with clamping panels together.
What is the slickest varnish that will prevent the most sorts of glues from adhering to them?
I know Minwax poly stops PVA glues, but does it also stop CA, epoxy, etc?
Their quick clamps suck, they don't grip to tight and if you try to over do it they slip loose.
Their f clamps are incredible. 3ft clamp for 7 bucks? I'll take it. 2 draw backs. One, they bow if they're too tight, but you rarely need to get them that tight. Two, the plastic bumpers tend to come off. Just double check, and use a buffer board if you lose them. There are some people that never put a clamp directly on their work anyways, these people won't be affected.
There c clamps break at the swiveling face, they're alright for holding metal in place though if it's not extremely heavy.
I'm about to buy some pipe clamps from them, doesn't seem like those would be easy to fuck up.
I have over 30 of their f clamps, and over the past few years I've never thrown a single one out.
I just had a look at that HF website, not so much at the clamps but the front page. I don't know how they can even make that stuff cheap enough to send it around the world and sell it again.
I'd give anything a bash at those prices but I wouldn't have high expectations.
One thing I will add is the way most cheaper F clamps work and the bessey clamps do, with the bessey having a broad, flat area that applies pressure to the work piece, they don't do any damage or leave marks. The others tend to do it no end if you're working with soft wood.
That being said though, I have enough of the f clamps to do just about anything I need currently. I'm about to start investing in some nice parallel clamps once I get the foundation laid for my garage and build that.
Dude, it's crazy. Some of the stuff is really solid too. Hammers especially. I mean, their 5 in screwdriver, I've bought a dozen of them for dirty jobs or when helping my buddies get their first home tool kit. I was 1000 miles away from home once visiting my buddy for 2 weeks in the middle of nowhere. We were bored and he was talking about finishing his basement in the future but finding a good contractor was hard because they charge so much because there's so few them. I found a harbor freight, we bought a miter box, framing hammer, drill, bits, linesmen pliers, razor knife, wire nuts, electrical tape, a putty knife, sanding blocks, and a pipe wrench. We seriously spent like $65. Hit up the big box store 70 miles away, then grabbed 4 cases on the way back in. We got all the tools needed to finish a basement from frame, to plumbing and electrical, to dry wall, molding, and finishing. He still had one room unfinished when I left but he was able to get it together with what we got. We could have got one of their heavy slightly inaccurate circular saw for $25 more.
They're not the best tools by far, and they're not built to last, but they work in a pinch, or for starting off or with things you won't need to use a lot. Only things I've ever had an issue with are their squares(or anything that requires the utmost accuracy), automotive seal puller, and their impact sockets. I had 2 of their impact sockets blow up on me under load, have of one left a welt across my forehead.
Walnut pipe v2
This time unmaintained garden instead of work number.
Not him, but my old-as-fuck boss who was a qualified goddamn-near-everything-under-the-sun (HVAC/plumbing/mechanic for starters) swore by youtube. Bout once a week he would come in raving about how awesome youtube and this new future bla bla is, lol. And he's right.
Typically when i want a new tool that i am unfamiliar with i pick one up at harbor freight. Use it until it breaks. Then using the experience i gained with the bad tool pick up a quality one.
The only thing YouTube doesn't offer to any trade that's been taught face to face for years is having someone standing over you telling you what you're doing wrong and being able to ask your trainer questions. But a lot of these guys will answer questions when l you message them or send them pictures. The downfall is that apprenticeships can take years and years, you can't fit that into YouTube sized videos.
I rebuilt an old chevy engine to 400hp off of YouTube 7 years ago when I was 19 with doing nothing more major than an axle rebuild.
Vintage as in 1950s vintage. Certainly not imported. Its like pic related.
And in fact it was /diy/ who told me to buy the thing in the first place. I just havent used it in the last 2 years since I bought it.
It has a brand new 6 TPI blade on it. Was cutting cheap 3/4 wood on it.
The problem I am having is the blade isnt making smooth cuts at all, it starts to squeal on the wood and leaves very deep wavy gouges in the cut. From what I have read, its a tension issue, but I have tried different tensions and cant seem to get it to stop.
The wheels dont have bearings, but they are tight and not sloppy. The tires are bad looking but running it with the side off I dont see slippage or whatever.
Im not sure what to do.
Cedar if unpainted, pressure treated wood if painted. I'd use a scroll saw myself, but that's because I have a scroll saw. It can produce extremely intricate curves that are shiny-smooth as sawn with no need for sanding.
>It can produce extremely inaccurate curves that are jagged-rough as sawn with endless need for sanding.
Really wish i had a not shit scroll saw.
I asked for one for Christmas. My dad pulled mine out of the shed, put a bow on it, sprayed some paint at it, dropped it in a box, and gifted it to me. I'm never asking for anything again.
Quality of the saw notwithstanding, have you tried a small-tooth blade?
My workbench. My first ever woodworking project made of Tangile 2x4s and a plywood top. Wood glue and screw. Looks crude but pretty sturdy. Gotta start somewhere.
> tightens everything with gorilla force
Let me guess, your bits get stuck in your router and drills because they're "shit" and you stripped out the oil pan on your car cause it's also "shit metal"
not at all I follow torque specs on my car and the husky brand clamps at home depot are better made than harbor freight, not much mind you but better, i usually don't use the key on my drill just spin the chuck in my hand. I bent the clamps when i was working ina metal fab shop and needed to clamp shit down so it woundn't slide around when drilling and grinding and if i can bend something like than just tightening it by hand it's not so well made. products from harbor freight have been hit or miss for me and i buy from there all the time and the only thing i will absolutely say to stay away from is their angle grinders i have had more than one cord short out and catch on fire through normal use
Yeah I'm guessing so. I'll show you how I took care of the proud fingers.
I got confident in the accuracy of the jig so I went ahead and tried this again with Blatic Birch.
Doing this with all corners with the trim bit took about 2 minutes total. Actually, it took longer to put the bit in the router.
The flush trim bit just leaves a hint of burnishing. I used a quality Freud bit so ymmv, I don't trust cheap router bits any more.
With just a touch of sanding the joints will look flawless. I'll probably sand it tomorrow.
>cant rry see shit niggah
>it rook ok to me
>sure it rook OK to u slant eye fok
>ih heg fry rice you pwick
exactly, that is why their return policy is the tits, when the grinders would burn out they would trade them no questions , the guy i was working for would return them almost every week and get new ones, i think we went through 15 or 20 before he bought some better ones
You're right in thinking it's a tension issue. Try making it tighter than the gauge suggests. For a 1/8th blade, tension it almost to the 1/4 mark. See how it goes but be careful when trying out a new tension, I recommend heavy gloves and Eyewear just in case.
Also might be the guides aren't close enough to the blade and/or workpiece.
Got a piece of old stump root ball today. Was either a cypress or pine tree where the resins/oils kept some parts from rotting.
Top half is darker because I put some denatured alcohol on it.. And it never went back to as pale as it was before?
Either way.. I cant decide what it should be? Jewelry rack? Tooth brush rack? Hat post? Lets be serious.
>Inb4 some fag says dildo.
I make turned crochet hooks out of various woods. My "business" is bqueen collection if anyone is interested in seeing more pics or has any questions if you want to turn a hook for your wife or mom.
Forgot to ask if anyone knows a good way to "revive" purpleheart. My stock goes brown before I can use it up. I almost thought about torching a piece because it really turns purple after friction burning.
That muffinpucker would have to be SHARP, and you'd probably have to sharpen it again re the glue in plywood will indent a blade.
Generally the solution is a flush cut pull saw, unless you WANT to burnish it. I've also seen a tip of putting a layer or two of masking tape where the bearing will end up for the flush trim, so that it brings it down to a level that you sand smooth. Heavy sanding on end grain tends to close up the pores a bit, which can cut down on stain absorption differences, so the contrast pops less.
Just a word on "typical" C clamp construction the bar at the end of the screw is made to bend before you damage the threads or the clamp, second most are made from cast iron therefore have lots of carbon in it. It shouldn't have been able to bend (a lot), instead bend a little then fracture, meaning that was a bad casting.
TLDR: Man those where some shit clamps.
Made this for my girlfriend it's made from soapstone and it lights up when you hit the switch in the back what do y'all think
Many clamps are made of ductile or malleable cast iron, which will bend before breaking. Wouldn't have expected anything but grey from Harbor Freight though.
Consider an analysis of the forces on the clamp. the greatest bending stress starts at the bends where the legs meet the back, and persists over the entire back. The thickness of the clamp should give a visual indication. And the legs probably did bend a bit, it's just that the bend in the back is more apparent.
well, 2. first is the mentioned it will be a clean cut and have the fingers pop more because sanding dust/burnishing won't clog the pores, so the endgrain will absorb more stain.
second, is that there's much less of an issue with chipout than a router has.
i think i had assumed they would have been drop forged like a crescent wrench, i'm not certain but pretty sure older ones were, i understand it's harbor freight and i didn't expect them to last forever , it was just surprising how easily they bent
it's the resin (or sap if you will) of purpleheart that gives it it's color. any kind of heat will bring the resin closer to the surface, restoring the actual purple color. a hairdryer on max heat should work just fine, but a heat gun it probably your best bet.
$19 is nothing. Just buy them. I don't mean to give it the self righteous holier than thou speech but seriously. He's completely independent, other than a bit of ad revenue he's not sponsored like the other YouTube woodworker shill types.
I've bought a few plans off him for things, and comparable to something you could go our and buy it's pennies. Not to mention you can get support from him if you fuck up.
Made this out of one slice of 1 1/4 by 2 1/2 inch radiata. Front is heat-sync aluminium with five 3.5mm headphone jacks. Pan-head screws are superior. Countersinking is for hacks.
Oh my fuck! You guys suck. What is this? High School shop class?! This board should stick with ardent - controlled shit like your auto masturbators or electrojacks. It's only "slightly" less shitty than this thread.
Here let me show you fags some woodworking you'll REALLY like.
This thread is literally, "I made this with pallets." Hurrr. Durr.
dismounted a broken bedframe.
what do you suggest to do with these pieces?
I want to start doing more diy but am a noob right now
>broken bed frame
How can it be so broken that it's completely fucked? Usually they break from either a giant knot being in the middle of one of the structural pieces or shitty tiny screws are used in the mounting hardware and tearout, so you just get bigger screws.
What thefuck is wrong with your skirting? Why would it be the same color as the walls? The door frame even.
You don't need to sand if you plane your timber. You can get a better finish with a plane than with sand paper.
320grit for end grain. 220 grit will make it come up black and shitty. Especially important for showing up the rings around d knots and not having shitty black edges on uncovered end grain.
Cutting boards as a wedding present for a friend. First time trying any precision woodworking I'd say it came out pretty well. Engraving done with a laser cutter.
I am planning on building a simple bed frame for a queen size. Using 2x8 and 4x4 for most of it. Gonna use lag bolt for connecting most everything (not in a long term living situation). I have always had my bed on rails and I am tired of it.
I need suggestions or tips. Anything you guys can think of. Gonna be low to the ground so it is more sturdy. Headboard is gonna come up about a foot over the matress. Gonna use slats instead of my box spring.
Loosely basing it off this
So today I found some redwood in a skip that I thought would be ideal for a dolly for my bandsaw, ya know, cuz heavy.
Got it home. Rough cut it. Jointed it(planed it) Planed it(thicknessed it). Cut in all the notches and tenons. Then realised I hadn't accounted for the width of the planed timber on the length.
Fuck sake. Looks like I'm back to the skip(dumpster) tomorrow.
These look lovely! I was just coming here to see if anyone had nice projects I could shoe my boyfriend (he is in a slump since he had to quit his contracting job), but I didn't think there would be something I really needed hidden here. Next more /cgl/ related projects is on you dude
I'm currently doing a stain job. I've applied my first coat of Minwax and it's looking pretty good after the first coat. Is there any shame in just leaving it the way it is now? Or is it general good practice to go ahead with a second coat?
Also, I've noticed that the bottom part of my wood is a bit darker than the top. Can I apply a second coat only to the top part of my project or will it be noticeable? Point of no return?
I've only ever used one coat. Usually of exactly your pic related. You can do another coat, but it might be darker than you want. I wouldn't do just half either, and would just leave it. That's just how wood is sometimes, it was living and every piece is different.
Im not sure how much it cost.. But my skill saw (lies of 1.5hp) is pretty damn good with a good blade on it. Never had a problem. Might not be the fastest most powerful cutter. But by far isnt the slowest.
I want to adhere the top of a box tower I am almost done with to the dowel that passes through the other pieces. But I'm extremely scared to use wood glue and have it squeeze out into the other parts. Is there another adhesive that would work as well? Just has to stay in place. I have loctite on hand. Also the bottom isn't glued in yet, but I was going to do that first. I could put a nail in that to wedge it instead of glue
Here it is with the bottom and top flushed with the sides.
Now I have to cut the top off, so I can open it (obviously)
Chopped the top off.
And to preserve the symmetrical look of the box joints when the top is closed, I sliced off a small section from the bottom part.
Nothing is wrong with plywood boxes.
And speaking of mahogany boxes here is a sapelle/macassar humidor with Spanish cedar lining.
I'd generally prefer to use plywood because of the almost non existent grain expansion.
Is working with pallets looked down upon or something?
I have always wanted to get into woodwork but lack the funds to get myself a decent woodshop however as a wedding gift my parents and grandparents pooled in and got me a few toys.
>jobsite table saw
and they were talking about planer as a gift.
I have a basic corded drill. And was really thinking about buying a few more saws with money i have saved up.
I think the planer would be really nice to have but not a must. Though i can get a reciprocating saw and scroll saw on loaner from my dad as well as a a belt and orbital sander.
I had always wanted to do stuff with pallets but a lot of the projects i see look a little sloppy. On purpose i would assume to make it look more rustic and hippie.
But when they had brought up the planer i thought man i can plane pallet boards down to a uniform size and get a lot of the rough stuff off quick for projects i want smooth.
With the stuff i have what should i look at buying next?
pallets are a raging pain in the dick to take apart, other than that you can get some fine wood types from them, many are made of oak. try and find a hardwood flooring supplier near you and see what you can get from them, i've gotten some nice stuff from pallets
I would assume in addition to what i have i should get a pallet buster. And if i intend to put pallet boards through a planer then a metal detector for sure.
How much use would a planer be in what ammounts to a hobby shop?
Is porter cable a good brand to buy? I havent had any issues with my porter cable jobsite table saw but ive red reviews online of people saying the brand is crap.
I dont need the high end tools for what im doing but i also dont want harbor freight tier stuff.
i don't know much about he pallet buster, but the nails used to build pallets are made to not come apart easily. I haven't had a whole lot of luck taking them apart with a hammer and pry bar, kind of hit and miss. I don't know much about planers i use hand planes but if you don't know a lot about sharpening knives or chisels and what not they can be a pain
Not sure if you're American so your terminology might be different to mine but a 'planer'(if you mean thicknesser) is a two part deal that goes hand in hand with a jointer(that's what we in the UK refer to as a planer).
You need a flat reverence on the work piece for the planer(thicknesser) to mirror.
I have a combination machine and it was the second wood working machine I bought after a table saw and I wouldn't be without one now.
But, even putting pallet wood through it can be hit and miss because the wood is often shitty and tends to chip out a lot.
I use pic related.
All depends what you build and what wood you buy/use.
If you just buy boards at the hardware store that are already flat and the thickness you need, then it isn't quite useful.
I usually buy rough sawn lumber in "quarter" dimensions, so a jointer and planer/thicknesser are a necessity in my shop.
Hardware stores don't carry the dimensions I regularly need.
The dewalt planer that you can find in most home depots and lowes is really good for its price and will take care of the pallet wood for you.
However make sure you know the detaild of the pallet wood you are bringing home. A lot of the stuff is chemically treated or coated with some nasty shit that is bad for your tools and health. Some make sure you learn the nomenclature that they print on the side of pallets.
I was looking at the Dewalt 734 for about $400 and a portercable PC305TP for $270.
From what i can tell the portercable would suit my needs now but require more elbow grease. The dewalt would be the better choice in the long run if i end up using this machine a lot.
The Porter is nice but if you don't mind the extra cash get the dewalt. It will outlast and outperform. And if i remember correctly the dewalt comes with a granite baseplate that won't warp over the years. The Porter only comes with a thin stainless plate.
DeWalt woodwork equipment is probably the most over priced machinery I've ever gone near. Elu which is a dewalt guise were much better but the dewalt tools I've used haven't warranted their price tag.
Their bandsaws are super expensive and really shitty especially.
Fixing a deck, it will get very light use after this
Which would you buy?
Im not too sure how much I like the idea of batteries for something I will use only on a rare occasion.
And also bowls for fruit or for rising bread dough.
Also one a'la baldur's gate, But i haven't figured out how to do the teeth nicely.
I can say that the ryobi one is decent. But if you'll only use it on occasion go with what's cheaper, just check the warranty. Craftsman is Crapsman
Also please for the love of God wear eye protection every SINGLE time you use it. Screws and whatever else can shatter from the impact driver, I've had screw heads fly and hit my eye goggles before. Sure glad that hot, sharp piece of metal didn't hit my eye.
But impact drivers are awesome.
So I applied my satin polyurethane finish and it's pretty sticky (after over 10+ hours). I've done some reading and from what I gather I probably applied the satin slightly too quick, over stain that hadn't fully dried yet.
What are my options? Wait a bit longer and apply another coat?
I have the craftsman battery powered one, for over 2 years. I know 3 others that have them and use them daily. They work great. Never had any problems. The batteries last a long time and charge quickly. I still have the one i got 2 years ago and it works fine, got another so i could use it while the other was charging. I got mine as a gift, but I'd recommend it. However if i were buying one I'd get whatever was cheaper. In spite of any reviews. That's just me tho
Sticky polyurethane will gum up your sandpaper. Try rubbing it off with cloth and mineral spirits, let it dry, sand with finishing sandpaper if necessary, then apply another coat of polyurethane.
I was refinishing hardwood floors with friends a while back and we had the same problem - the poly just wasn't drying. Did the above and all was well. Good luck.
Alternatively, let it sit for a few days to cure a bit, flat sand it with ~600 grit just to knock off the high spots and level everything.
Then, one more thin coat to finish it off.
Most DeWalt stuff is overpriced and unexceptional but their planers are known to be the only ones in their price range that don't snipe. They have a big following in the woodcuck community.
That comes down to how you set up your knives and bed in relation to each other and your technique.
When I first started using my plane and thicknesser I had snipe, quickly learned it comes down to technique. So I don't buy that.
It's probably the one machine it's taken the longest to learn to use with clean results and the time to set up the outfeed bed and knives is longer than I've spent on all my other machines combined.
more into design and execution than I am into super precision. think rustic look actually adds to the aesthetic
i've added some lower drawers and shelves, but same concept. scrap wood and cheap materials. i've built pretty much everything in my place. the only person in the city with a saw and stand out on his balcony, but it looks good
more old stuff, but yeah i built the broad a cabinet using an old shitty mirror. she likes it and all her crap is off the sink
It's been hipster chic for a couple years now.
Partly because it's cheap, thus increasing profit margins for shops, and partly because it was unorthodox.
Same reason pallet furniture is so popular.
also practical and incredibly easy to work with, don't lump it in with pallet furniture.
Hey diynos, how do I into woodworking? I have a bunch of equipment (dad owned construction company, kept equipment).
As embarrassing as it is, I never did much with said equipment, since the clients were very particular about their wants. So sanding I have done, but there's a crap ton that as a kid I never really did growing up and by the time I was old enough to learn he retired from the company stuff and just kept some equipment and materials around.
So I guess the question is, what's a really good basic wood-working project? Cutting boards from multiple woods don't look terribly difficult, just cuts and glue right?
A door with side by side partitions I made
Google shanty 2 chic, it's a blog written by women for women (easy to understand). Those broads actually do a great job and have solid design sense. Seriously their stuff looks way better than any of the try-hard wood working projects I see here. Kind of surprisingly, skill does not trump design
I never said it wasn't, just that it's become a hipster thing.
It's lazy, shitty work done by lazy, shitty people who want to feel like they're real woodworkers. Are there examples of rather nicely-done pallet furniture? Yes, but the mythbusters also managed to polish a turd.
The wood is shit quality chosen purely because of its cheapness and ability to hold a ton of stuff without falling apart, and a large percentage of them are sprayed down with enough pesti- and fungicides to give your family cancer three generations in the past.
Reclaimed lumber has been a thing for millennia, but pallet furniture is a passing fad, propagated by dipshits who flunked shop class, and have nothing more than an old hammer and a box of framing nails at their disposal.
Pallet boards are made of oak more often then not arnt they?
I would think you could get a lot of usefull boards from busting some up, making sure all the nails are out then running them through a planer to shave off a cunthair on either side and make them half way smooth.
And if they are treated with nasty shit its marked on the side.
I have not worked with any myself but was thinking about getting a few for some of the boards.
Yeah when you start hacking them apart and nailing them back together it looks like shit. But there are some good looking projects i have seen made with pallet boards and some extra bought lumber.
i've gotten oak, mahogany, and all kinds of stuff from pallets, look for a hardwood flooring distributor the manufactures often use whatever they have on hand to build pallets, the only time the company i worked for used any treated pallets was to ship to canada or over seas, the nails used to build pallets are a pain in the dick to pull without splintering the boards
I don't have much to show for really but I really like woodworking and wish I had the space and money to take it further.
Anyway, I made a bunch of wooden planter brackets a while ago, was a fun little project and it looks real nice in the summer with the flowers and all.
It's because it's shitty oak. and it's for heavy duty pallets, like those that ship concrete on, because pine would snap the fuck off right away with 3 tons of concrete on it, but oak will mostly hold up.
No. you are mistaken. If it's treated with nasty stuff when it's MADE, it's marked on the side. If it's treated with nasty stuff on the way through malaysian customs on trip 5 of it's 25 trip lifespan, then you're sol. caveat emptor even when it's free.
also, most SHITTY pallet furniture is butt joint nailed together never even sanded, splintery shit.
That said, it's not bad for small projects, because you can find free oak that is good in 2-3' sections on the pallet. so big knot in the middle of an 8' board, get's sent to the pallet area of the lumberyard. you can get 2 decent boards out of it. even the best case is like 1/2"X4"X3' though.
yes, we got them all the time, a ton of them were cheap, thin cut fir or something but we got a lot of nice boards with almost inch thick oak on top. the stringers were usually fir 2x4s or something. the mahogany came from pallets from hardwood flooring manufactures
pic related is off a pallet not sure what it is but it looks kind of nice with a coat of real shellac on it
OP here again here's a box I made a bit ago, mahogany and maple
I've never seen black stripes through mahogany like here though, is this rare? I got this peice in some scraps and I have a good few boards with the black lines
>also, most SHITTY pallet furniture is butt joint nailed together never even sanded, splintery shit.
Exactly. THAT is ugly and will get a spilnter shoved up your ass. I understand the hate for that.
But when someone builds something like pic related? that dosent seam very hipster to me. Sure I would sand it a bit more.
The guy either found some really long pallets for the top boards or bought some lumber. Either way the use of pallets made this project a lot cheaper and it still looks good and functional to me.
True. That is the main thing keeping me from snatching a few up for some fun projects.
Sure the stamp on the side might say it was not treated with nasty shit but when it did 12 loads in china im sure they dident mark it if it DID hull some kind of crap that would give me 2 different forms of cancer.
But fuck me if i want to build something im paying out the ass for the lumber to do it.
Finally finished the screw advance box joint jig.
Only ever done basic shit with my dad as a kid. Getting back into it because the wife wants to spend hundreds on "rustic" furniture and I need a hobby other than gaming.
Not perfect, but its level and doesn't wobble on the carpet. Thoughts?
How much better does an actual ripping blade rip than a combo blade? I've never used one.
I use the best combo Freud blades and they are very nearly as good at crosscutting as their top crosscut blades. But rip blades have a very different looking set of teeth on them.
Rip blades do simply that. They rip. Not a neat finish. The idea is to get through a lot of material quickly with less effort.
More teeth, smaller gullet = cleaner finish.
I've been debating this for a while and om going to build one. The fence is the easy bit to make. It's the lift that's more of a challenge. There's plenty examples but most I've seen are very primal in design.
I was debating looking for a cast iron top second hand similar to the UJK or Record Power router tables but they're very expensive.
Im from the US, just up way past my bedtime.
Yeah, not sure I like a lot of the lift designs ive seen out there either.
Im gonna probably do one out of a laminate or MDF top, just buy a drop in plate.
My cheap table saws fence has just been a huge struggle, not sure if I trust myself to make a decent one for the router
What type of wood would it usually be? Glued top or solid piece?
It cuts well. Didn't have too much cleanup on the edges, but the whole thing is probably 8 years old. Main problem I have is the fence doesn't line up straight. I don't remember that bring a issue when it was new.
lumber from a place like menards is cheap though? it's not that I look down on pallet design/creativity, but the additional sanding effort, plus the risk of what's in it just doesn't seem worth it to me. seem like a lot of extra squeeze for not a lot of juice
Not at all. The only thing that holds you up is having to wait for bearings as I don't keep them to hand.
That said, as Matthias said himself, it's dependant on your skill level. I'd say some of the cuts involved are a challenge for the average DIYer but otherwise easy enough.