New Handmade General

>>9514297
vk "dot" com "forward slash" albums "dash" 36779752

>>9514566
Thank you very much! Does anybody have scans for OnS 4?

>>9514566
>vk "dot" com "forward slash" albums "dash" 36779752

doesn't work

>>9516170
works fine for me and for other anons apparently, dunno what your issue is

>>9514660
I don't know of a source, but if you find them LMK. I'm thinking about buying 4, 8 and 10 since there aren't scans of the of the pattern pages. I bought 9 and 11 and I'm really happy to have them.

>>9516170
did you use - instead of _ ?

Does anyone have any favorite lolita/J-fashion related handmade blogs? I've been checking out a few different tags on Tumblr but everything I'm finding so far is either terrible quality or the blog owner has very poor taste in materials. Cosplay blog suggestions are welcome too as long as the focus is on sewing. Thanks!

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>>9517696
Bumping with an answer to my own question, totodedum on Tumblr and Livejournal makes some great stuff!

>>9514297
What's the best service to share a zip? I spent a bunch of time laboriously saving all of the scans of ONS (I think I got them all anyway) from that site and thought people might appreciate that.

>>9518885
Dropbox perhaps?

>>9518885
mega.nz, dropbox and zippyshare

What differentiates nice lace from shit lace? And which types and styles are best for which applications?

>>9520312
Basically, if it looks cheap, it's bad. Fyeahlolita made a guide, but you can always ask us here as well.

>http://fyeahlolita.blogspot.com/2010/04/how-to-tell-bad-lace-from-good-lace.html

>>9520312
Didn't see your second question. It really depends, like for dresses with a more country vibe I go with eyelet or crochet lace and more modern sweet I use tulle lace. Oldschool I usually go with crochet lace as well. Your best option is to observe brand dresses similar to what you're making and see what they do.

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Before I do something really stupid... たたむ or tatamu translates as fold, but in this case do you think it means dart? Pic related. I'm pretty sure that's supposed to be a dart but the instructions never actually explicitly show that step.

>>9520433
Yeah that's a dart

>>9520435
Thanks! I figured as much, but I thought I'd double check.
>>9518885
https://mega.nz/#!9PxW1IAC Here is a zip of all of the OnS scans from that VK album neatly numbered, I thiiiink.

>>9520398
>>9520414
wonderful, very helpful, thank you so much!

>>9520442
It says it needs a decoding key to download anon.

>>9520312
Ofc "looking cheap" is somewhat subjective and differentiating between good lace and bad lace takes an eye that comes with experience. There are also high quality lace types that are practically never used with lolita, so even if they're pricey and look good it's best not to get those. Elastic/stretchy lace is something you can scratch off your list right now, since it's never used in lolita and usually looks pretty bad.
If you have something specific in mind you can always post here and ask for feedback. You could also post on one of the sewing FB groups but I've noticed the userbase is very varied experience-wise and since it's FB, bad advice isn't shut down like it would be on here.

>>9520755
>>9520442
Sorry, I'm apparently retarded, try. https://mega.nz/#!9PxW1IAC!W3O1fHqCC35kMI9PDV5w21C_iPDIOZEXgGlPXcrtn-U

I thought "link without key" meant I was giving you guys a link that didn't need a key, not that it needed a key and didn't have it.

What's everyone working on?

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>>9521540
I'm drafting the pieces for this a-line dress right now. Haven't quite decided what I'm doing for lace, but I'll get there at some point.

>>9521560
from what magazine is that pattern, anon? one of the earlier ONS?

also, cute fabric!

>>9521805
Gosurori 14! I just finished drafting and cutting out all my pieces, but won't be able to sew anything until at least Saturday evening. Such is life.

>>9522072
nice! I'm looking forward to it!

>>9521540
I cut fabric for pants last week, been "too busy" to sew it together (got hooked to kdramas). Maybe I get it done on the weekend

>>9521540
I'm altering a Butterick bodice pattern that, despite supposedly being the right size for my measurements, appears to be made for pregnant women with an extra set of boobs on their back. Wriggle room is great but 10cm of wriggle room? Dang.
Once I've fixed it I can use it for multiple projects so it'll be worth the hassle in the end.

>>9521540
I finished two projects and am now deciding what to do next, lol. I haven't made a blouse before so I'm thinking of trying that.

>>9522293
When using commerical patterns look at the finished garment size and add your own preferred ease to get to an appropriate size. I usually go down two sizes from the size that's "supposed" to fit.

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>>9521540
working on a simple jsk with a sweetheart neckline in a rose fabric.

>>9521540
I'm working on a simple underskirt and re-designing the bodice of a dress I made a few years ago but would you believe it my sewing machine just crapped out so i've gotta get that fixed now

My mom is handy with a sewing machine and really wants to make me something that's Lolita. She brings it up almost every time she sees one of my outfits, that if I get her a pattern, she'll make me a dress. Are there English publications of ONS, or maybe an indie pattern maker that puts out good quality English patterns she could use?

>>9523400
ONS are very easy to follow because they have illustrated guides but they only come in Japanese. If you really wanted you could probably get someone to translate the small amounts of essential Japanese in them. Indie patterns are way too expensive for what they are.

>>9522830
Commercial patterns are a fucking joke, when I do my measurements I'll have a pattern say I'm like 4 sizes bigger than I am in clothing, start to put the garment together and, shockingly, it begins to be way too fucking big. Drives me up a wall. I've started building garments from the listed size rather than measurements and have had way better luck, unbelievably stupid.
Just switched to making my own patterns, commercial patterns aren't worth all the stupid tweaks you have to make for it to fit the way you want it to.

>>9522830
The finished measurements only list the length of the bodice and the skirt, and mention nothing about the bust or waist.

>>9523626
Yeah, according to most pattern companies I'm a size 10 which is apparently supposed to be for a 25" waist, but the pattern results in a 29" waist even if the garment is supposed to be very close fitting. Why is it like this? It's not vanity sizing, because you only find out you need a smaller size AFTER you're like halfway through, not before. It's so frustrating.

>>9523637
Try also looking up reviews for it on patternreviews or whatever, people usually post pretty detailed reviews that are really helpful.

>>9523115
Why have you folded the edges of the piece? Does it make it easier to sew? Btw, beautiful print!

>>9525781
Not that anon but it looks they drafted the pattern without sean allowance and just added it on as they cut the piece out.

>>9517696
I like to follow this girl since Tumblr ages, but now (unfortunately) she has just migrated to a blog platform and is posting everything in Portuguese https://gotadebaunilha.blogspot.com

Her stuff is basic, but she usually addresses the Ons Pattern used and review them.

I also enjoy this girl's handmades, she has an amazing Marie Antoinete coord http://darkmedora.blogspot.com

And of course, frillyCakes
http://frillycakes.blogspot.com

>>9525809
seam allowance ffs

>>9523637
You need to measure the pattern pieces and work it out yourself and adjust as needed. Even if the sizing was accurate you'd need to do this to make it fit properly.

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>>9521540
I've just finished this wool capelet and am supposed to be working on a matching underbust JSK, but am 2m short on the lace required to trim it and can't find it for a reasonable price anywhere in my country (or on aliexpress, but that might just be my search abilities failing) - I originally got it way back in the days of sew_loli and cheeptrims group orders, but I live down under where it's not easy to find decently priced decent lace in stores.

>>9527678
Taobao is your friend

>>9527679
Do you have any better ideas than trawling through pages and pages of lace listings for hours? I've tried using image search and keywords on both aliexpress and taobao and unfortunately the exact lace doesn't come up or I'm just failing at finding it. Taobao has the added hassle of needing to input my search words in Chinese though so perhaps that's the problem...

>>9527686
NAYRT;

I did a cursory check through laces.taobao.com and I didn't see anything, but similar laces were in their chemical lace ("water soluble lace") section, the keywords for which were 水溶花边.

Maybe try that, along with black, and the dimensions of the lace (e.g. 2 cm, 3 cm). There's terms in the taobao dictionary under the taobao thread.

There's still pages and pages of lace to go through though so forgive me if you've already used these keywords.

If all else fails, maybe an SS can contact one of the sellers for you to see if they have something similar or know of a factory where to get this kind of lace?

>>9527678
If you have any of the ONS books, you could look through there and see if there is a lace used close to what you want, as they list the item numbers for buying from Rakuten. I can't think of a quick way to find matching lace. You might be better off just choosing a suitable one over one that matches exactly.

>>9527707
>>9527711
Thanks for the suggestions! I think I might find something "close enough" for the hem but use the same lace to trim the bodice.

The issue is partly me not wanting to pay too much for it as well - ebay/etsy sellers are all charging $4-$5/yard + international shipping, which is another $10 on top of it - for that I could nearly buy a whole 30 yard spool from cheeptrims but would meet their $65 minimum + pay international shipping anyway. I wouldn't mind paying $4/m but paying the same amount again in shipping is a little ridiculous.

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New Simplicity patterns.

>>9527908
>>9527911
These ones could actually work.

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>>9527917
I know! It seems like they're finally starting to get it.

>>9525809
yup, I did it that way. I don't like to add seam allowance, so I just add it when I cut the fabric

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Of course, they still call it "lolita costume"...but oh well.

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>I dropped over £100 on sewing materials today and it feels exhilarating

Anyway, before I set about making mistakes, how would I draft a sleeve like pic related? I assume it's a half oval shape with the straight edge on the shoulder strap but I'm not sure how exactly to proportion it.

>>9527908
That long sleeve shirt is pretty bad looking, but I'm thoroughly inpressed! I wonder if Simplicty went out looking at lolita dresses or if a lolita works with them to make these patterns more accurate?
>>9527911
Super thrilled about the accessories pattern, I'll definitely be buying this one. Everything looks surprisingly nice (sans the headbow). Also now sure why people are getting their panties in a twist over the car bonnet, I don't see how adding little cat ears to a hat is so innovative that if anyone does it they're clearly ripping someone else off.

>>9528122
Didn't they go to lolita convention a few months ago and speak directly to actual lolitas?

>>9528137
I'm not sure, but if they did that's pretty awesome! Hopefully the next lolita pattern is even more accurate to current styles.
Also wonder if this means there'll be an influx of really good handmade (now that there's a far more accessible decent lolita pattern) or if they'll be an explosion of terribad handmade.

>>9527925
that long sleeve blouse needs some work but I kinda like the short one. Perhaps I'll invest, I hate drafting blouse patterns

>>9528122
I mean, AP did that ridiculous bonnet with the bunny ears that sometimes gets posted in WTF Burando threads

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>>9528095
Sorry anon, I know this might not help much, but I tried.

>>9528095
I think you have the right idea. The pattern in >>9528362 is a good starting place but curve the seam that will attach to the strap rather than making longer and ruffling it. The sleeves in the pic do fall more like a circle skirt rather than looking gathered.

Anyone have tips for applying ribbon so that it doesn't pucker and ripple? I'm having a bit of trouble. Like in a sailor style stripe manner.

>>9528531
If it's thick ribbon you could use bias tape to help stabilize it then just sew slowly,

>>9528122
>Also now sure why people are getting their panties in a twist over the car bonnet, I don't see how adding little cat ears to a hat is so innovative that if anyone does it they're clearly ripping someone else off.

Because this was a design that Vierge Vampur did and was literally next to them at Rufflecon. A plain bonnet is one thing (also would have been better for most outfits. Now we're going to have cat bonnets that look like shit on all the new itas)... but that design is something Vierge Vampur made and popularized. Are you ok with replicas also??

>>9528536
Dont do this
I have no idea how anon suggests using bias tape here but since bias tape has give and ribbon does not, youll just end up with more of a mess

I'm assuming you mean around the curves of the collar, not straight sewing. Most ribbon is straight with no give so they don't take curves very well if at all. The only way you can sorta jimmy it to work is if it's a thick ribbon and you can add some darts. That being said, for sailor collars and things you want to be using nice quality petersham ribbon. It looks like grossgrain but instead of being straight on the edges it has tiny scallops. It's woven in such a way that lets it have some give and lets it be sewn onto a curve. You can get it on etsy for relatively cheap in all sorts of widths and colours.

>>9528635
this.

they probably saw it at rufflecon and decided to rip it off. vierge is a small indie brand too, so that makes it even worse imo.

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>>9528531
You actually should be able to get most ribbon to curve by steaming it! When I've done sailor collars, I cut a long length, shape it and pin in place on the collar (if you can pin into your ironing board, that might be easiest, so you don't have to worry about things shifting while you move it) and then steam the shit out of it. Then top stitch in place, you should be good to go!

pic related: a sailor collar I made with this method

>>9528680
I should also note, the slight puckering on the main fabric here came out after steaming, just in case you find some slight bulges after top stitching :)

>>9527908
>>9527911
Someone is upset. Simplicity ripped off an indie designer >>9528684

>>9528686
That's shitty of simplicity. I'd be upset too.

>>9528140

Terribad homemade.

The waists sit too low on both dresses, the proportions don't look cute at all. We're going to be stuck asking newbies "Did you use this pattern? You did? Yeah you have to shorten the bodice by 1-2inches to get the skirt to look cute. Also leave out the front corset lacing, it looked dumb even when burando did it, and for the love of god do not make jsk B, it's like a DoL x Milanoo unholy lovechild."

I think their previous mess looked better, at least it had a better silhoutte.

>>9528140
I'm expecting terribad, too. Anyone capable of 'really good' handmade would be experienced enough not to need a Simplicity costume pattern for dresses or blouses that basic. Plus there's still plenty of room to fuck up in fabric choices and that's the biggest thing most handmade itas get wrong.
The ONS books contain many actual lolita patterns made by Japanese lolita designers and are pretty accessible even to people like me who can't read Japanese at all, yet those haven't really led to any boom in really good handmade, either. Just a slight nudge in the right direction, if anything.

I don't think the limiting factor in handmade lolita is the availability of patterns so much as the innovation and taste of the people who get into it.

>>9528740
I think front corset lacing can look nice but the panel has to be small and the ribbon has to be wider and really good quality. I bet most people using this pattern will use shitty thin ribbon in all sorts of inappropriate colours.

>>9528763
A lot of handmade stuff seems to be newbies wanting to save money – so they haven't grasped the aesthetic yet, and they're willing to cut corners. I think you a) need to be a more experienced lolita first, and understand how brand garments are constructed – even understanding the basics isn't enough to construct something that looks right; and b) be willing to invest time getting the right fit, details and finish, as well as prepared to spend money on quality fabrics and materials. Sometimes making it yourself costs more than second hand brand, so doing it to save money is the wrong reason IMHO. Just my two cents on why there is so much bad handmade, I'm a firm believer that handmade can look amazing when done well.

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OnS has its deterrents, it’s not just the language barrier, but also that it’s a Japanese book you need to order online and ship to you (assuming these newbies don’t live near a Kinokuniya). If you can get that far you can figure out how to order secondhand brand off yja/lacemarket. These days most newbies just want to wear the dress, I agree with the other anon who says most of them want to cut corners, which means they’re going to wing whatever they can and not bother ordering OnS online.

If this company can get its shit together long enough to put out some decent basics then at least it’s a pattern that newbies will be able to throw in their cart when they/their mom buys their fabric, it’s one less hoop to jump through. So I’m rooting for them to get a grip and actually put out decent patterns we can direct young newbies to.

Honestly though I don’t get the over-designed shit. Why not just make the simplest jsk cut of all? You can easily mix it up a hundred different ways by adding lace/ruffles across the top or the bottom of the dress, add ribbons/bows to the shoulder straps/front/skirt, pintuck the bodice fabric before you sew it up, add lace down the front of anything and everything. It’s both the most versatile and easiest cut to modify into a hundred different dresses, not this funky ita stuff.

The headbow’s even worse. It’s super duper easy to make an Alice bow, is the staff just blind old people looking at Bodyline’s itas for inspiration?

>>9528818
I agree with all of this. So many handmade lolitas I've seen skimp not just on material quality but on yardage, so they end up trying to make a lolita dress out of way too little fabric to even get decent proof or ruffles. If you know what you're doing and can get your hand on a good amount of quality fabric then you can be a little cheaper off than buying nonprint new, but there's an investment of time, energy, practise, etc. that most people don't bother with. So instead of making a dress with a fitted bodice, good poof and ruffles or pintucks, they pick some ugly printed fabric, make an unflattering tube bodice, use too little fabric for the skirt and forego ruffles and pintucks because that's too much work and the busy print should make up for the lack of decoration, right? Ehh...

Personally I sew lolita because I enjoy it, but if I wanted to be cheap I'd rather use those hours to work overtime and scour secondhand sales for deals.

>>9528853
Most bad handmade-chans I know buy from Bodyline and if they can figure out how to do that, they can figure out how to buy from cdjapan, amazon or yesasia. If thats truly too hard for them then I have no hope for any of their handmade projects, either. With people like that you could drop a pattern designed by Isobe himself in their lap and they'd still find a way to fuck it up.

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>>9528095
Drapes more like a circular ruffle, but obviously the middle is wider than each end...

>>9528861

That's where cutting corners comes in. They aren't going to go out their way to order a book from cdjapan/amazon/yesasia instead of a ready-made dress off Bodyline because they don't want to pay for the book and the shipping.

A western pattern that they can impulse-buy while at the fabric store stands a much better chance of finding its way into their hands, which in turn helps them figure out the tube bodices and narrow skirts

>>9527920
>>9527922
Eager to see a future review of these patterns, agreeing with other anons that the waist looks pretty off on these. I'm really curious how many adjustments actually have to be made to have the dress fit right.

>>9527911
Is that a bonnet pattern I see? This is really cute, minus the cat eats. I'm definitely going to purchase this.

>>9528928
Dont do it anon, the ripped off a small indie brand. Posted about more in the general

>>9528861
It's really just about an ita attitude towards life. I've come and gone from a couple different collect-y expensive hobbies, and I've never bothered with cheap shit. Like, deals yes please, but actually cheap shit no.

>>9528861
It's a shame too, because (in my experience at least) handmade lolita can definitely be cheaper than buying brand. Once you teach yourself to build a solid dress and with some digging you can find incredibly high quality fabric for cheap and hunting on eBay you can get gorgeous ribbon for a few bucks. I've gotten some of the best apparel fabric from fabric.com on clearance for $5 a yard, and then if you get 6 yards boom, you have enough for a dress and a skirt, or two different cuts of the same dress, or two totally different styled dresses. Learning to sew your own dresses is so liberating, instead of looking at a dress and thinking 'oh man I wish it didn't have xx on it', you can just say 'I like this except for one major aspect, so I'll just make my own dress with exactly what I want'. I really wish handmade lolita was more widespread and common.

>>9528977
Problem is people don't care to look for good bargains or wait for the perfect sale. Itas want their kawaii lolita dress right now and they'll settle for cheap jo ann's quilting cotton instead of waiting to find nice fabric online for about the same price

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>>9528983
Itas ruin everything.

>>9528942
That's awful. Thank you for letting me know, anon. I'm not going to support such a blatant rip-off.

>>9528997
No problem! I was excited too until i saw they were a rip off

>>9528387
Praised be, Master of sewing anon! Thanks for the help!

>>9528665
I used the wrong word, sorry!! I use bias tape as a blanket term for any stabilizing strips (which I clearly need to stop doing). I use cotton twill tape as a stabilizer for any fabric I have issues with when sewing, the twill tape I have has zero give and is incredibly well woven so it's great for any slippery or stretchy fabrics.

>>9528362
>>9528387
>>9528876
Thank you! I think I have a clear ideas of what I'm supposed to do now.

>>9528977
It's cheaper in that you spend less money, but if you're working full time it doesn't really add up for the opportunity cost - overtime in my shift job is $20-50 an hour depending on the time of day, sewing for 6 hours to make a decent lolita dress when I could get extra sleep to cope with the rotating shift pattern or work for 6hrs and afford one doesn't make as much sense as when I was a broke student with more free time. And it's not like I'm learning new techniques because lolita dresses are generally basic af sewing techniques - basic bodice, so no difficult drafting, then maybe ruffles/pintucks which are not technically challenging, just time consuming.

That being said, I still make the odd thing for fun or to get matching colours etc. - but definitely not as the cheaper or easier option once I factor everything else in.

>>9529560
I can see people claiming art theft about the cat ear bonnet, but seriously that bear bonnet is generic as fuck and has been made by tons of people. Yes, they most likely ripped of her cut as they bought one of hers, proofing it will be impossible though.

Yea everyone and their dog makes the bear headdress. Its pretty common, I figure she is just trying to play the victim land make it about her.

>>9529560
>>9529569
People will claim art theft about anything. Honestly I would be surprised if anyone who sells accessories wasn't offended. And they lose the right to bitch because they sold a sample, providing them with a pattern. What the person does with it after in a competitive market isn't dictated by the seller. That's up to ethics law, which holds very little ground if the design wasn't patented in the first place. Or was an imitation of brand.

>>9529632
The indie designers didn't sell a sample, they sold a product. There's a difference between designing something with the intent of selling your ideas to a pattern-making company and selling a product. I'm not a lawyer, don't know the logistics, but it is 100% a dick move. Outcry from the community is totally justified, especially since lolita is so up in arms about replicas

>>9529560
She's not the first person to have come up with the bear hat, so I don't think she has a whole lot of right to bitch. If she wants to make a point that it was hers, she needs to purchase that pattern and compare it to her product. If they're identical then she has grounds to sue, along with whoever made the cat ear bonnet (again, something I don't really see as super original). I'm not saying Simplicity isn't being a total twat with how blatant they were about copying these designs, but these designs aren't unique whatsoever.

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>>9529569
>>9529596
AP even made a pattern for it a long time ago.

>>9529709
Oh wow, someone post this because her spamming this all over FB is just so pathetic.

>>9529392
I mean, I sew as a leisure activity. I find it fun, so I look at the hours spent as just what I do in my downtime. It'd be a problem if I was trying to turn a profit, but I'm not, so that works for me. Also I'm time-rich and money-poor so you know, that.

Has anyone else noticed they're crediting mossbadger with the rosette designs in their attempts to cry foul play? It's a rosette ffs you can learn how to make them from a quick Google search.

>>9529745
At least Mossbadger admitted rosettes weren't her invention in the first place.

>>9529745
I think people are just pissed their crafts aren't as special as they think and now people can make it themselves. Any lolita crafts have been built from existing brand items. It was only a matter of time until a large pattern company hopped on the bandwagon. I really think people are just looking for something to bitch about. I'm still buying the pattern.

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Looks like she claims right to the bear bonnet. She just edited her status

>>9529632
>>9529644

I think this is the crux of the problem. I don't think the designs are particularly original, and I would never have credited those specific indie brands as the IP owners.

All the same, there's something about the lying to the sellers' faces about why you're buying the product that seems particularly shady. It's almost like sissies showing up to your meetup and implying that they want to join in because they "enjoy" dressing up. Sure, they weren't outright lying to your face, but they don't exactly have the purest intentions either, and both are looking to make use of you for their own purpose.

I can see how they're technically in the grey area, but I'm not about to support some normiefag assholes trying to exploit fellow lolitas.

>>9529560
Couldn't they steal a decent headbow to copy because that is some Bodyline helicopter waistbow shit

>>9529802
>I'm still buying the pattern.
Why though? The dress/blouse patterns are shitty and the accessory patterns are mostly things you hardly need a pattern for in the first place. Why not just buy a volume of ONS?

>>9530126
I just want the accessories pattern, the dresses are pretty bad looking. I like having different sources of how to put garments together, the simplicity patterns may have a way to do things I haven't done before/thought of before that I can use in other garments.

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>>9530258
With a lolita dress there's only a couple of ways to put the basic bits together. Sewing isn't some mystical discover your own new way thing although the way people go on about it you'd think it was. A lot of supposed "correct" ways of doing things for home sewers or even "better/easier ways" are workarounds for bad patterning, laziness or simply because that's how it was taught.

The order in which you sew your seams in your generic princess seam bodice with straps and a gathered skirt is likely not going to significantly affect how the garment fits or sits (although have a look at the fashion-incubator post about dominant seams if you're interested in that sort of stuff)

I honestly think you'd get more value for money out of otome no sewing - no. 8, for example, has a rectangle headdress, bonnet, headbow, veil headdress and round headress as well as the multiple garment patterns. I'll take some crappy photos of some of them since apparently there aren't scans floating around.

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Wrist cuffs/sleeve lengtheners

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Mini top hat (and cape pattern)

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Jabot.

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Muff

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Bow and...hand covers? One finger gloves?

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Bonnet (part 1)

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Bonnet (part 2)

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Round headdress

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Rectangle headdress.

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Handkerchief/triangle headdress

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Bow/veil

>>9530361
Oh wow.. I see your point, I have some of the older ONS and wasn't super impressed because from one issue to the next there wasn't a huge difference (in what I was looking for), but damn ONS 8 looks pretty dang good.
Thanks for sharing, I'll definitely grab a copy of ONS 8 instead.

>>9529855
I've made a bear bonnet pretty much just like that 14 years ago ....... that was my first item ever, I lived in Japan at the time (due to father's job) and one of the girls I hung out with had a pattern from some street zine ... so if she is really still talking about this, maybe I should claim rights as well lol

>>9530314
>fashion-incubator post about dominant seams
Thank you for sharing this. I had been curious about it but couldnt figure out what to google to get this information.

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>>9529709
>>9529727
KEK. Has anybody posted this yet?

Anyone experienced with making fabric kanzashi, or know where to find some good resources on the basics? I think I want to try making something to match my Daydreaming Goldfish JSK, but there are an overwhelming amount of tutorials out there with varying methods and materials.

>>9529560
>this is my design
>mfw Precious Clove had the same fucking bonnet design for Singing in the rain since the first release.
>so did you get the pattern from them?
>what's the truth.jpg

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>>9532383

Clover makes these kanzashi flower makers. You cut fabric to size, place them on the plastic, fold it, stitch it. Then remove and pull the stitches and automatically get a petal. Repeat to get a full flower. Place a rhinestone in the middle to hide any fraying edges.

Most of the kanzashi tutorials do work, but a lot of times the flower form depends on exactly how you fold the petal. I find the kanzashi flower maker much easier to get consistent flower petals, plus there's no fiddly glue to deal with.

>>9532221
Might make it a secret next week if nobody else wants to.

>>9529632
>they sold a sample, providing them with a pattern.

Pretty much the entire fashion industry is built upon copying from one another, whether from the high end couture houses or just a similarly priced brand/market segment.

I work for a high end fashion label and the designers literally go shopping at their brand competitors, bring back a garment they like, and ask for us to copy exactly as it is. They just end up putting it in a different fabric/color/print, and sell it as though it was entirely their own design. Happens in every brand, except for those few couture houses.

Lolita is a fashion. They are not exempt from this.

>Or was an imitation of brand.

Curious what CGL/general comms think if Simplicity did start copying and releasing brand look-a-like patterns?

I was assuming the moral outrage over this Simplicity thing was mostly because it happened to small indie brands. What if they just decided to copy J-brands instead? Would it make it any more or less acceptable?

>>9533011
I think small indie brand covers all of lolita brands in terms of moral outrage in this context. Even though brands are big and prominent without J-fashion circles, in the grand scheme of things they're still really small and indie compared to other fashion labels. Nobody would bat an eye if they copied the pattern for a Chanel coat because Chanel is huge and won't lose that much money in comparison to if they copied something similar off Angelic Pretty or Pink House.

>>9533038
I don't know. I like to think small indie brands mean they don't have staff and basically still hand make their own products. J-fashion brands may be small compared to couture houses like Chanel, but they still have more brand recognition than Miss Candyholic (never even heard of her before this outrage desu) and they most likely have enough staff power and money to actually have a design team and go into full production with a factory, even if they are only doing the absolute minimum order quantity. Small indie brands - I just don't see them being able to do the same sort of thing. Hence the whole "don't rip off small indie brands because they are poor and need every sale" thing.

>>9532383
I follow this YouTuber and this would be a cute design for daydreaming goldfish.
>https://youtu.be/2CuiCu61_48

>>9533011

Can’t speak for other girls, but honestly I’m more annoyed at various other things. They labeled the pattern a costume, and quite frankly, the dress sets look like costumes. It’s like a bunch of old biddies sat down and said “what can we add to this so it looks ugly enough that we can easily identify who the stupid weebs are?”

That pisses me off more than anything. Like ffs it’s not hard to just take a look at actual lolita girls and chose the NICEST dress cut and copy that, instead of shitting all over it with speshul snowflake chest bow and shit.

It also doesn’t help that the only items in their accessories pattern that aren’t shitty are the exact items they’re accused of copying. Again, you could just take two minutes to look at actual lolita girls and figure out how to do the simplest, NICEST looking headbows. Or buy the goddamn OnS themselves and tweak a design from there, if they’re so much into copying. But no, we get stuck with something so noob and so clueless from a so-called professional pattern company. And then they go ahead and add two stolen designs thinking we aren’t going to notice or care.

It’s not just the copying. It’s not the small indie brands. It’s not just one thing. It’s insult after insult after insult. Like what the fuck do these assholes think lolita fashion is? It’s not some shitty snowflake shit with a helicopter bow. It’s supposed to look PRETTY and CUTE, not this utter shitfest with stolen designs.

Goddamn.

>>9533519
>>9532485
Thank you!

>>9533597
>It’s insult after insult after insult
Here here!

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Con-crit? Fair ballpark price? Thinking of putting these up on lacemarket because of the built in target audience.

>>9533921
It's bugging me that the ribbon through the center of the top one isn't quite wide enough and all the holes in the gathered tulle lace of the white one (since a ribbon goes through there.) Black looks fine.

>>9533921
white & black one and the black one look ok, i agree with the other anon that the lace on the white one looks hoaky

>>9530314
Off topic a bit but I have that same Otome no Sewing and I've always wondered where to get these plastic rosette base things. What are they called, how do you search for them?

>>9534251
http://www.clover-usa.com/en/crafts-and-beading/670-rosette-parts-set-large.html
http://www.clover.co.jp/cgi-bin/clover_search/syousai/index.html?hinnban=57907

^The kits they're using on the English and Japanese websites. It honestly just looks like stiff interfacing to me.

>>9534297
No it's plastic and interfacing.

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>>9521560
>>9522116
I finished! You'll have to excuse the shoeless photo, literally the only photo I got that wasn't a selfie was the one my boyfriend snapped on my way out of the door.

>>9534749
Cute! The fit on you looks way better than the model photo.

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>>9536156
Thank you! Gosurori had a really bad habit of putting their models in REALLY unfitted unflattering outfits-- so I can't take too much credit for it haha. Pic related.

Does anyone know where I can source black flowers? Whilst searching ebay, I've only been able to find foam colourfast roses. However I was hoping to find regular artificial flowers. I'm from the UK, and haven't been able to find any in store yet. I would search Aliexpress, however I don't think they'd arrive in time. Does anyone have any suggestions, or am I all out of luck?

Does anyone have OnS 9, 10, or 11? I'd be more than willing to scan all of OnS 8 is someone would be willing to scan one of these (especially 11, I'd love to have the Physical Drop pattern).

>>9538078
I have 10 but I won't get the time to scan it until next week

>>9538160
I took a bunch of meh photos of 11 in the last thread and could dump them again. Before you get too excited though, the Physical Drop pattern isn't for the dress-- it's just the headdress.
>>9538078
Ah! Please do! I don't have any of the scans for ten!

>>9538234
Damn, really? Should've known. I'll go look in the archive, thanks! I'll scan as much of 8 as I can tonight and dump it all before the end of the week.

>>9534251
Aside from the kits that >>9534297 posted, you can also look into bulk ordering covered button pieces. They come in a bunch of different sizes and are way more cost effective overall! Just make sure you also get the little grommet that allows you to snap the backings onto the dome.

>>9538078
I have 9, anything in particular you want from it? Too lazy to scan everything lol

>>9538471
Ooh, I'd love drafting page for patterns 12, 34 and 42 if you get a chance. Thank you!

I'm thinking of getting a new scanner and scanning everything I have.
I have 16 issues of GosuRori, Tezukuri Gothic & Lolita handmade (is that was this super old issue is called?) and all the OnS issues as well.
Would people be interested in new high res scans of these?

>>9538884
Yes.

>>9538884
Absolutely! Especially the OnS that haven't been scanned yet on the vk albums page linked at the top of this thread.

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I'm trying to do a gathered chiffon bust like pic related but it keeps looking floppy and doesn't have that gathered textured to it. I've drafted it so that underneath there's a fitted bust and the gathered piece is just an elongated version of that pattern. I've then gathered it at the top and bottom down to the fitted piece but it just looks like a droopy boob mess. Any suggestions?

>>9539234
Do you have any pics? We can probably troubleshoot better if we can see what's going on.

>>9539234
How elongated is the gathered piece? It might be the case that you have too much fabric.

>>9538884
>>9538966
Yes please! Like anon said, issues that aren't in that album (4, 8, 9, 10 and 11) of OnS would be MUCH appreciated. But I mean if you're gonna do all of them that would be beyond awesome.

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>>9538629
Hope these taken with my phone are okay, turns out it's better quality than my old scanner lol.

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>>9539539

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>>9539543

>>9539234
Photo of your pattern pieces would be helpful, but my guess is your piece is either too long or too short, both could make it look weird. I'd usually go 2-3x the width of the fitted piece for that look.

>>9539539
Thank you! These are great!

>>9523626
How would someone get started with making their own patterns? I've tried following tutorials for drafting basic things like a plain bodice, but it never seems to fit correctly. Any recommendations for a total noob?

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>>9540427
Not that anon but maybe this helps. Make one basic pattern first with good fit. Draw one with tutorial and see what's wrong by sewing it together. Then alter the pattern as many times as you need until it looks good. You should use some cheap fabric since you might need to sew a lot.

When you get the good fit, save it as a base to everything you do. Then you can begin the altering like changing the seamlines. Every time you make new pattern you should make a test piece since the fitting change a bit.

Pic related, something i have saved

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>>9540466
And another one

>>9540334
No problem! Need anything else, just ask, I always lurk this thread.

>>9538884
Maybe contact the anon that is making a database of scans and translations. I'd help translating those, I've already researched most of the vocab they use in sewing books.

>>9529011
>>9528997
Couldn't you just use the pink bonnet pattern without the ears? Without the ears, it just looks like a standard bonnet.

Does anyone have any good resources for wine/bordeaux lace? I'm making a wine velveteen dress right now and am having a hell of a time finding good quality/attractive lace in that color. Cluny and crochet would be preferred, but I'll look at anything that isn't the same eBay crap I keep landing on. (really appreciating oldschool pieces and the lace more now that I have to find it in colors other than black or white)

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>>9540778
Oops, dropped pic; stuff similar to Baby's lace would be ideal.

>>9540518
By buying the pattern you'd be giving money to a company that has clearly stolen someone else's design.

>>9540778
not sure what your exact standard is on lace, but I like the seller 'lacetrimwholesalers' on Etsy.

I do have some sources in Dutch, but not sure wether you would have any use from it

>>9540466
Thank you so much, anon!

>>9540427
>>9540466
This anon basically said everything I would have. Your best friends in pattern drafting is white wrapping paper from the dollar store, and cheapo fabric from Walmart or the thrift store.

>>9540924
why don't you just use muslin? it's going to be the cheapest fabric you can get and it comes in widths up to (and maybe even bigger than) 108" so it's versatile for a lot of patterns

>>9540933
I find 60" 1$ a yd fabric at my local Walmart super frequently so I usually don't use muslin, I personally haven't made a project that required a massive block of fabric yet. That and my local Habitat for Humanity had $5 bag days where whatever you can fit into a bag is yours to $5, so I'll grab large cuts of fabric there for pattern drafting/practice.
But muslin is great if you're making something like a Victorian dress or prom/wedding gown or some other elaborate costume. But with lolita ~usually~ not being that crazy I don't find the 108 muslin to be a huge necessity.

Does anyone know where to find machine embroidery patterns for lolita, that aren't just generic flowers? For example something alice in wonderland related or something unique to lolify my cardigans. I wear gothic and sweet.

>>9540427
Drafting from scratch is completely horrible because of the tweaking you need to do to even get a good basic block. I would start with a basic bodice block if you can find one - burdastyle used to have a printable one but I haven't used that site for a few years now.

>>9542032
Burda style has one but I find it kind of outdated and needs a lot of tweaking to fit modern women. The armholes are way to small and the waist sits to high.
I'm not home right now, but if anyone is interested in drafting blocks from scratch I can scan some pages from my pattern drafting book.
I've also got some blocks I can scan in, I think one is super tiny, like measurements of 34-24-35 and then the other is a bit larger with measurements of 36-26-36

>>9540807
Thank you! It's not quite what I'm looking for but is much better than what I have found, so even still I'll probably end up using some of it with something else.

>>9542032
I make all my own patterns and this anon speaks the truth; going from total scratch is a march through hell the first few times. Definitely grab a basic bodice pattern from a brand you trust and use that as a springboard into what you want to make.

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>>9542031
Maybe you can find something on "Urban Threads". Pic related

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>>9539289
>>9539302
>>9539675
(Sorry if the photo's bad; my phone camera is potato quality) The pattern is just the top part of an ONS pattern and then to pattern the gathered piece I chopped both pieces in half and put some space between them. Looking at it now I think the curve on the bottom could mean the fabric bias is making it drape funny. Any thoughts?

>>9542720
Just make a rectangle the height of your bodice piece and three times the width (or however much you want it gathered) instead of this curved piece. Gather it and attach it, it doesn't matter that it won't line up at the top in some areas, just pin it carefully so the gathers are in the right place. I hope that makes sense!

>>9542720
>>9542734
Or if you wanted to line it up perfectly when sewing together (if the first method is too fiddly lining the gathers up), you need to 'stretch' the bodice pattern piece lengthways by 3x accurately, not just add space in the middle wherever. The bottom part shouldn't be curved like that, it should look like the bodice piece but longer. Hope that helps, sage for double post.

>>9542720
Is the fabric the right way up? It will only drape right if you cut it a certain way against the selvedge. You can tell from hanging the fabric different ways.

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>>9542720
You shouldn't have curved the piece, that's what is causing it to bag. You need to slash and spread - pic related, yes it's a sleeve but the idea is the same

>>9543055
That's what I tried to do but it evidently went wrong

Does anyone have a pattern source on something with a sweetheart neckline? I have a commercial pattern intended for stable knits, but I don't know if it's safe to just copy the neckline over. Bonus points if it's raglan sleeve styled.

>>9545592
if it's for stable knits it should be fine for wovens.

>>9544430
Update: I took the curve out and it's working now. Thanks for the help.

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do you think this can pass as otome? or is it just too normie?

>>9549581
Wrong thread?

>>9544430
Yeah....slash and spread that way shouldn't end up more curved than the original bodice piece. But glad it worked in the end!

>>9549910
I made it :0

Does anyone know any basic guides for decora guns or a good term I could search to find nice refs? Searching that gives me pretty much nothing and I want some inspo before I try it.

>>9551934
never heard of those things, but they do sound interesting. but you might find more help in a general help or a cosplay related thread.

>>9551934
I think you mean decocen rather than decora. Anyway, decoden works the same on virtually anything so just check that your surfaces and adhesives are compatible.

About how many yards would make a nice rectangle skirt that will have a good amount of poof to it? I want to be sure I buy enough yards so that it will look nice and not flat.

>>9553940
3. I was always told "3 x waist measurement" but honestly that doesn't hold a petticoat well enough, so roughly 4 x waist is good.

>>9553940
Do you want a plain skirt, or enough for ruffles? How wide is your fabric? Does it have a pattern? How long do you want your skirt to be?

In general you need about 250-300cm total hem circumference to get modern day levels of cupcake poof, so if you have 130-150cm wide plain fabric you only need about 1.2m for the most basic skirt assuming your skirt pieces are cut perpendicular to the selvedge and your skirt isaround 50cm in length. Adding one tier of ruffles adds at least another .5m on to that requirement depending on how wide the ruffles are. If your fabric is narrower (e.g. 110cm) and you're thinking you need to cut your skirt pieces parallel to the selvedge, then 1.5m would be my minimum - and you could need up to 3m for a longer length skirt, particularly if the fabric has a one-sided border print.

>>9553940
That depends on a lot of factors. How long do you want the skirt to be? How wide is your waist? How wide is the fabric you're getting? How full do you want the skirt to be? Are you going to add things like bows or ruffles? We can't really help you much unless you get more specific than a rectangle skirt with a good amount of poof.

>>9551934
I know Hard Decora makes them so maybe search "hard decora gun"

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>>9530126
>Bodyline helicopter waistbow shit
haha holy fucking shit that is funny

Anyway, I have a serious question. I don't really come to these threads because I don't sew.

However, I know someone who is a seamstress who told me that she was interested in collaborating with me eventually on some lolita stuff that I want.

So, do you guys ever talk about making prints? I have all these print ideas that I'm starting to work on. A long time ago in the menhera threads there was a lot of discussion about what companies to use for actually getting prints done, but I'm talking more along the lines designing the artwork and picking what cut of dress it would go on.

Is there a correlation of what the print is and what kind of cut it gets? I think some things are obvious, like Shadow Dream Carnival has that princess vibe, and Dolly Cat has a posh look going with most of its cuts, and Dark Night Hospital has a nurse cut.

But I feel like there are lot of times where this isn't the case?

And the examples I listed are very obvious. Can you guys give me examples where there is definitely a correlation yet it's not blatant?

do you guys have favorite cuts?

What's the best way to do a scalloped hem? I've seen a few different variations and was wondering what you guys have had success with.

>>9558794
I've only ever seen one method. you cut the outer fabric (the one you'll see) to shape, and then you place another piece with the same shape on top of it, right sides facing. you sew, trim the edges and turn inside out.

>>9558794

I'm actually really curious what the other methods are. Unless you mean something like hot knife or zigzag stitch.

>>9557092
Generally speaking I think that if there is a very obvious theme, the dress gets a relevant cut, but otherwise it depends on the style.

Sweet prints get the halter straps, bows everywhere, etc

Classic has more understated style unless it is OTT. Some even have a totally plain busy

Gothic is usually either fairly plain or very ruffly.

That said the exact specificity of the cut can vary. If you're doing a print you could just pick a popular cut like a lot of AP stuff.

>>9558794
Here's the one I use:
https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/tutorial-scalloped-hem

>>9558866
>If you're doing a print you could just pick a popular cut like a lot of AP stuff.
Oh my. That sounds like a terrible plan. I love AP but I'm not looking to just copy them.

Thanks for the reply though! It slipped my mind that of course different styles would get different cuts, but when I see a classic dress, it's unmistakable. Same thing with sweet.

I've been going through all the usual shopping sites and studying the correlations between prints and cuts.

I feel like gothic has more leeway than anything else as far as cuts go?

>>9559147
You're probably right about Gothic.

And whoops, I didn't really mean to copy them exactly, but look at recent cuts from brands you like that sell well. If it sells, people like it. It's not really copying to look at Japanese or Taobao dresses and use a similar cut, considering there's only so many options anyway.

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Does anyone have tutorials, advice, or anything I can look at for altering dresses? Specifically looking to alter the armhole bigger, though I'd be interested to look at other alterations.

I'm not a noob, although not an advanced seamstress either. I've completed dresses with pintucks and lace and done other stuff before. Theoretically an armhole alteration seems to be something I can do by myself -- rip the topstitching around the bottom of the armhole, flip it inside out, sew a new line lower down, cut and clip, flip it back in, press, topstitch -- seems doable, I think?

I'd really appreciate being able to see how other people do it, though, especially as I'm intending to alter some brand (unpopular brand, but still), so any pointers is much appreciated.

>>9560280
I think you'll have to take out the whole sleeve, anon. if you make the armhole wider, you'll have a longer seam (if that makes sense), thus you'll need also more from the sleeve. unless you also want the underarm to be shorter that is, then your method would be okay.

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>>9560297

Ah, forgot to mention both dresses I want to alter are jsks. The armholes are a fixed width but there's no sleeves to worry about.

>>9560280
Assuming you have some way to get into the lining? I would definitely check the fit of the "new" armhole before you cut anything - you don't want to take too much and get awkward gaping. I've never had to do that with a premade garment before, only on patterns so can't give you as much practical advice annoy the actual doing of it but I can tell you that an alteration that looks ok can still sit weirdly once it's on a 3D person.

>>9560445

Then you should be fine to lower it the way you were originally thinking of doing it.

>>9560648

Thanks, that's reassuring to hear someone concurs.

>>9560505

Yeah, I'm trying not to take off too much -- a mere 1cm at the bottom of each armhole would make them fit better. Maybe I should trace the dress and do a mockup first, though.

The lining: ugh. One of the dresses is older and I can easily get at it. The other.... requires a lot of careful unstitching and then resewing.

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Will a skirt made out of this be ita? I sorta like the print but I'm not sure will it fit lolita

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>>9562437
I can't really judge the quality from my taterphone but at first glance it kind of reminds me of this VM release. I think it could work, if you keep it simple.

Anyone else here in any of the handmade/sewing Lolita FB groups? Been pretty dead lately. Makes me a little sad. Have all the good people gone somewhere else? Would love to follow some good handmade Lolitas.

>>9562735
what groups are you in? lolita sewing collective is fairly active on the occassion

>>9562741

I think I'm on all of them. LSC, Pintucks & Lace, We Sew Lolita, and Advanced Lolita Sewing. Am I missing any?

I haven't seen any good stuff lately even if it is active. Looking to follow some good handmade Lolitas. It's been mostly novice level stuff. Not knocking that sort of thing, but just trying to find a more advanced group? The Advanced Lolita Sewing group is pretty small (75 people) and the group is kind of dead (no posts/activity lately) . And t b h, their stuff isn't really all that advanced.

>>9562754
hm, yeah indeed. there's the occassional pretty dress, but nothing more than that. I don't know any other groups unfortunately.

>>9562754
Lolita sewing isn't advanced though. No creative draping, no advanced techniques or difficult construction, the most complicated you get is really just a function of time to make a buttload of ruffles. And the sort of people who seem to join these handmade groups aren't the people who already know what they're doing

>>9562754

Just curious, what do you consider "good stuff"? I kind of agree with >>9562972, a lot of lolita is usually really simple constructions. Other than things like pintucks or ruffles, the most complicated thing I can think of is maybe a built-in corset dress, but that's something not a lot of people want to wear in the first place.

>>9563080

I don't mean just good sewing, but quality of design detail, fabrication choice, color choice, and execution of technique while maintaining a balanced Lolita aesthetic. In essence, what qualifies as being "good" to me is that something is handmade without looking "home made". If that makes any sense?

>>9562972
>people who seem to join these handmade groups aren't the people who already know what they're doing

I feel this too. I guess I just wanted to see more good handmade Lolitas, but all I can seem to find are just "home made" looking stuff and the quality and attention to detail just isn't there.

It isn't unusual to find a lot of handmade stuff in the Japanese Lolita community. I think crafting is very big in Japan. But I can't seem to find the equivalent in the US community?

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>>9562754
Yeah, honestly LSC and P&L have such ita shit in there constantly. In LSC there's that one girl who makes those awful tutorial videos that constantly asks about whether this fabric would be suitable for lolita, but it's always the ugliest shit.

Actually, that whole group is constantly asking about whether fabrics would be suitable. Pic related.

>>9563700
Do you gulls ever post anything too? I'm also in the same boat, but not on Facebook. I just want to see quality materials and beautiful results. I'm only in the amino group, but it's hardly active. I'd definitely follow your blogs if you have any.

>>9563601

Ah, gotcha. for some reason I had the impression you wanted to see some avante garde cutting edge 3D printed designer stuff. Thanks for answering.

>>9563740
I'm in all of the groups, but I have yet to post. I'm not sure why I'm so hesitant to.

>>9563754
You should post anon! It'll inspire us to get some work done and post as well. Heck, just post it here even, I just need some inspiration.

>>9563740
I usually post in LS and P&L when I finish stuff. And here of course.

>>9563740
I have posted few times on LSC, but I'm considering to stop that. I always get posted from there into the ita thread even though my coords are mostly medicore. For the same reason I'm really hestitant to post anything here

What are some resources for complete beginners?

>>9563778
What style are you looking for inspo?

>>9563830
All three anon. I'm not particular and my closet contains a mix of mostly sweet, some classic, and some gothic. I really need to finish my blogpost about a gothic headdress I made...

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>>9563975
Here's this I just finished. I promise it looks better worn than on the hanger, haha.

>>9564001
Ahh! I love this! What's the pattern?

>>9564001
That looks really cute anon! It looks really nice on a hanger still!

>>9564007
>>9564008
Thank you!
The pattern is McCall's 7500. It's really great because it can be used for JSKs and long- and short-sleeved OPs and two options for bodice details, gathers or pintucks. I've almost finished one with short sleeves and pintucks in front from this same pattern.

Speaking of that, we need to update the google doc of commercial patterns that work for lolita.

>>9564009
So many of them are out of print now too. Honestly, most princess seamed dresses will work, we're just gonna slap our own skirts on anyhow.

>>9563740

I used to post things, but then I got bored of sharing my stuff when so many people were posting bad ita-level stuff. I just grew tired of the group in general since I find very little inspiration from it, and I am not the type to need social media attention. I was just looking to bond with more skilled people.

>>9564001

This looks great! This is probably the kind of "good" I was looking for. Good choice of fabric, print, lace, and nicely pressed. I can see the attention to detail here. I wish I could see more of this.

>>9564009
>>9564027

Is anyone else on here interested in patterns made specifically for Lolita that isn't from a mook? I draft all my own patterns, and have been toying with the idea of releasing them for sale. But I have no idea what kinds of items handmade people are looking for. More blouses vs JSKs?

I have made brand styled dresses for myself before and had thought to sell those, but then the backlash for Simplicity happened and I had to rethink that less I be pitchforked too.

I have heard that original dress designs are viewed as boring. And people are only interested in making stuff that look nearest to brand?

>>9564109
I'm more interested in OPs actually.

Do you guys have an easy patterns or easy to sew clothing ideas that can be applied to dolls? I'm not bad at sewing, I'm really not. It's just trying to sew those cute, beautiful little pieces on dresses is IMPOSSIBLE on 1/6 and 1/12 scale. I just want to make cute clothes!

>>9564109

Some anon said they wanted to sell simple patterns for cheap a little while back, but they got busy with other things. I would buy them, and I still would, I really don't like pattern drafting.

One of the things discussed previously is possibly doing patterns in different bust sizes -- OnS’s one failing is that most patterns are drafted for flatter girls.

The other issue raised was paper vs pdf, paper would be more expensive and therefore harder to sell, but pdf patterns run the risk of being freely shared. I think if you’re hoping to make a living off the patterns, it’s going to be tough. You should think about selling only if you already have patterns (for whatever reason) and free time to (e)mail them out.

re: Simplicity and copying brands. It's worth noting that copying isn’t the whole drama, a lot of anons did point out that the bear ears/rosettes weren’t original to begin with. However, their headbow was fucked up, and the jsk came with a weird blouse, so I think a lot of girls rolled their eyes and simply stepped away from whatever was happening instead of standing up for Simplicity, so it quickly became a lynch mob.

I don’t think people are into copying brand, but the main bulk of lolita clothes is brand, so they sort of indrectly set the standards. If you come out with your own original cut, there’s always someone waiting to say it doesn’t look lolita. I’d suggest not actually copying an actual brand dress, just mix and match their details so the results still look recogniseably lolita without being traceable to one exact dress.

re: what kind of patterns, I’m personally looking for basics, because at this point it’s pretty easy to pick up a nice dress from taobao or sew a simple OnS dress, but harder to find blouse + underskirt that comes in teal, or a blouse in ivory with 3/4 sleeves.

>>9564183

A few of the Dollybirds have sewing patterns for dolls, though I’m not really sure which ones specifically have lolita patterns specifically for 1/12 or 1/6. I know Dollybird 8 was the Lolita issue, but I think the patterns were SD and MSD.

If you have a pattern that fits, pretty much the same advice as above applies for dolls — find a pattern with a top you like, and just mod the skirt portion out into a rectangle skirt, use3x-5x the doll’s waist as the width (the fatter the doll, eg yoSD, use 5x. The slimmer the dolls, use 3x) and the length is however long you want the skirt to be. Then add embellishments like lace and pintucks. For pintucks, an easy method is to sew the pintucks first, before you position them on the patterns and cut them out.

For 1/12 I’d start with a onepiece instead of blouse + jsk combo, and leave it unlined, because layers of fabric can build up and look funky on the Barbie-sized dolls. When you have figured out things like graded seams, pressing, so that you’re making pretty thin layers, then you can try making a blouse + jsk.

>>9564109
The only one doing it is Tea and Treadle and the patterns don't look that good. I own one but I haven't broken into it yet. They have to have some amount of originality to it. I specifically would be interested in OPs with raglan style shirred sleeves, since I don't think there's anything in OnS or Gosurori with that style.

>>9564350
Is this kind of what you're looking for or longer sleeves?
>>9539539

>>9564565
O-oh. Yes, that's 100% what I was looking for.

>>9564170
>>9564223
>>9564350

Thanks for your input, anons. I really appreciate the details!

Sizing is one of the issues I am having right now. I don't know what "busty" means without grading it in the waist and hips too. Anyone here willing to share some of the measurements so I can get a base line for sizing? I am pretty flat chested and make a lot of stuff to fit me, but don't mind building a more "normal" block to use to selling patterns.

I would sell them in paper format because I have a large enough plotter to handle paper patterns. They are also printed on more substantial paper than the kind you would get from Simplicity so theoretically, you would be able to reuse it if you keep it in good condition. I imagine a lot of people would prefer paper patterns to digital PDFs because this would be easier, no? I mean you wouldn't have to print out a bunch of 8.5x11 papers and tape them together. You'd just receive one large sheet of patterns in the mail.

I have a small library of patterns saved on my computer (I use CAD software for pattern drafting) but a lot of it is just branded styles. I'll have to build a more original library if that is what people prefer to buy.

I think basics are a good place to start too since I don't know what anyone's sewing level will be. I work in the industry so I sew on an industry level. I don't do home sewing tricks or cheats. Do you think that will be a problem? I would love to share more advanced sewing techniques, but have no idea if anyone would have the patience to learn, or or if anyone would deem my patterns to be too difficult to understand.

>>9564908
Would you be interested in being commissioned to produce a pattern two specification? I can definitely get you example measurements of my desired sizing; and would need to see examples of your work. If so drop a throwaway email and we can get talking.

>>9564908
Anon here who actually bought a T&T pattern. I actually specifically waited for them to go digital before I bought a pattern. One, because it's cheaper. Two, I can't ever truly lose it. Three, my cats are demons and really like chewing paper, clawing it up, generally ruining it. If they just ruin my print out of my digital pattern, that's not so bad. If they ruin my only hard copy, I'm pissed. This is also one of the reasons I haven't bought the Cut/Sew patterns. But that's just me. If the patterns are unique enough, I'd probably cave and buy paper.

My measurements are 90cm bust, 73cm waist, 95cm hip. I wear a 30FF(UK) bra, because of my particularly projected shape.

I'd be particularly interested in: a proper button up cardigan, blouses, JSK/OPs with a center button placket, bodices that have back shirring channels instead of being stitched directly to the fabric.

The thing is, most of the stuff I want is available in OnS or Gosurori, but if you make it easy for me I'll buy them indie. Like, I fit perfectly into Gosurori LL, but if I really like an OnS pattern I have to grade it up for me, which is just a little annoying.

Again, just me, but I would be MORE interested in your patterns if you're specifically marketing them towards the "advanced" sewer. OnS covers basic shit fairly well, so do something different.

Sorry for the blog post, I hope some of this was useful for you.

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does anyone have a pattern or tutorial for a simple day cap like pic related? It can even be simpler than this, I just can't figure out how to do the shapes and measurements on my own

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>>9565107
Are these close enough? Pic related is it modeled.
>>9530327
>>9530329

>>9564908

I'm >>9564223. Personally prefer pdfs too as I'm located in Asia so shipping alone may double the cost of the pattern for me while going to a print shop is usually cheaper and faster, but I do appreciate other buyers may prefer a paper pattern. Maybe once you have some patterns ready you can do a poll in one of the facebook sewing groups so you can have a wider response from other lolita sewists on which one they prefer?

re: complexity, I agree with the other anon, I think if the instructions actually came with really clear instructions for a more advanced technique, I'd probably buy it just for the technique alone.

For sizing, wouldn't it make more sense to go by a standard size chart? (while still providing measurements of the finished garment, of course). There's a company called Cashmerette that makes (non lolita) patterns for busty girls, it might be useful to take a look at the sizing they offer and see how they do it.

>>9565129
not that anon, but that's a whole different design.

I would look into some re-enactment patterns or something

>>9565107
I've found a tutorial which might help? http://www.sewhistorically.com/how-to-sew-an-authentic-mid-victorian-day-cap-tutorial/

Are you planning to use this sort of cap in a lolita coord? I'd be intrigued to know what you've got in mind!

>>9564908
I'm 81cm bust and 62cm waist and I struggle because I'm between sizes in Japanese patterns. It's always a pain to merge the two sizes to make a draft for ONS.
If you include advanced techniques, I'd also buy for that alone (prefer PDF) as most sewing magazines keep it basic and I'm slowly collecting advanced sewing books, but I've never had proper instruction/schooling.

>>9564936
Idk how close I can get to a good fit if I go by pattern specs alone.

>>9565084
>>9565376
>>9565851
I might be out of luck then. I don't want to sell PDFs. Making the pattern is one thing. It's an entirely different process to turn them into PDFs with an 8.5x11 printable layout, and not really something I'm interested in doing.

I made a pattern for Mary Magdalene's Fleur Antoinette dress. I have yet to sew it since I haven't found a good fabric yet, but that dress alone has about 30 individual pieces. It's about a 4 yard marker on 55" wide plotter paper. Imagine having to tape together this pattern on 8.5x11 pieces of paper.

What exactly is it about paper patterns that turn people off of them? Aside from the anecdote about the cats?

>>9566000
>Imagine having to tape together this pattern on 8.5x11 pieces of paper.
No anon. I'm pretty sure we're all thinking of a one sheet PDF that you have printed out on a giant printer at Staples or something. It costs $7 and I don't have to worry if it gets lost or destroyed, because I can just get it printed again. Not a bunch of sheets taped together, hell no.

Also PDF because as >>9565376 said. Shipping might not be worth it for some. Personally I just don't have the storage space and I forget physical patterns exist while my computer patterns are much more organized and searchable.

>>9566000

Seconding >>9566597. Don't convert it into little 8.5x11 pieces of a jigsaw puzzle, if I get that kind of file in my email I'll have to convert it all back into one large image so I can take it down the road to the print shop and have the dude there print it out on his large format plotter printer.

So that's just a bit pointless and extra work for both of us.

I wonder if anyone would get mad at a Fleur Antoinette copy pattern. Not gonna lie, I want that pattern since the original doesn't fit me in all sorts of odd places (it's not about being fat, everything above the waist is in all the wrong places on me).

>>9566000
I use 8.5x11 printable layout PDFs quite frequently, but I'm not opposed to taking a full size A0 copy to the printers. And again, if you only produce printed, if they're good enough, I'm still gonna buy them.

>tfw new ONS looks like hot garbage

They really need to fit their models cus even the fully shirred JSK was loose

>>9566745
Don't they make the dresses bigger so they can be used in giveaways or something? I thought that was the reason they always look to big,

>>9566745
>>9566746
ONS patterns have always run big imo. According to the size chart I should fit the M size perfectly but every time I make something, I have to take in the waist by at least 3cm just so it doesn't hang off me like a tent. I'm starting to suspect the patterns secretly do include seam allowance even though everyone keeps telling me otherwise.

>>9566745
Pattern companies make their stuff look slightly amateurish so that beginners find it accessible, and have realistic expectations of what the final piece will look like. Someone more experienced in sewing can look at it and visualise how it will look in good fabric, fit and finish.

>>9514297
Where on the scale from easy to very difficult are OnS patterns for someone new to sewing?

I would need to scale up the sizing as I'm plus size, but the tutorial for that seems reasonable.

>>9566943
I think they would be difficult if you don't know Japanese and haven't used commercial patterns before.

You need to trace the patterns from the sheet. It helps to know basic sewing construction and how things go together.

>>9566955
If you have some sewing under your belt and are decent at figuring out what to do with just images, then the patterns are stupid easy.

>>9566955
Ok thanks, I guess I'll avoid OnS for now. Are attitude lolitas tutorials any good? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWa8iwZAmtM&t=165s

I'm sorry if I sound like I want to be spoonfed(I don't) but I don't want to end up with something like yumi king would make.

>>9566986
This looks ok. Really with a rectangle skirt, it's all about the fabric and making sure it's the right length on you and that it's neatly sewn.

DESU, the full elastic waist is not as nice looking as a half elastic waist.
http://egl.livejournal.com/14270972.html

>>9567086
I'll probably tackle that waistband after the full elastic one. Thank you so much for your help.

>>9566597
>PDF that you have printed out on a giant printer at Staples
>It costs $7
>I can just get it printed again

>>9566612
>so I can take it down the road to the print shop and have the dude there print it out on his large format plotter printer.

Sorry guys, but this makes me even less willing to produce digital patterns.

My original plan was selling paper patterns for about $10/pattern (more or less depending on the amount of paper used) and no domestic shipping. I won't sell internationally; at least not at first, due to having little to no international copyright laws available to me as a small business. (Copyright is for pattern reproduction/resale; not for design reasons.)

I have my own plotter and I don't understand the difference in paying me to reprint your patterns for you vs the dude at the local print shop (other than convenience). What you're telling me here is that you're not willing to pay me more than once for my work, but you would pay the print shop continuously??? I thought that the Lolita community was especially supportive of small businesses that cater specially to the Lolita market. But you'd rather support a print shop than the creator of the pattern you're seeking to reuse over and over again??? I know you probably didn't mean it this way, but it makes me sad anyway.

Repeat business is key to any business. In the end, I need to make enough money to cover the cost of everything to run the business. Selling a digital pattern for $5 to each person once with no incentive for repeat business (as in repeat purchase) sounds like an unsustainable business model.

I understand all of your reasons for wanting a digital pattern (organization, convenience, etc). I bought my own CAD system and plotter to make patterns specifically so I can have my own digital pattern library. But as a business model, it makes little to no sense to me.

>>9567280
shit lady. sounds like you have a stick up your butt.

PDF = instant gratification
PDF = world wide reach
PDF = passive income

I sell stuffed animal patterns for $9 a pop. Usually indie clothing pdfs sell from $15

If you want to sell physical patterns then do so! I buy them all the time because I can't be assed to print that shit.

>>9565450
>http://www.sewhistorically.com/how-to-sew-an-authentic-mid-victorian-day-cap-tutorial/
Thanks so much for the tutorial!!!
I actually found on on a mennonite site for sale, but it seemed slightly sketchy so if it never arrives I'll use this!

Actually a girl in my comm wore a black one with an old school coord and it was pretty cool. It's almost the exact same thing as woman's day caps in the Victorian era, and I think that they're a good idea for a casual coord. Maybe even adding lace or a big bow would be cute!

>>9567280
I'd pay up to $15-25 for a good digital pattern. I usually have all of my patterns printed in bulk from pdfplotting because it's more economical in shipping/order fees to do it that way. Also I prefer to print it from them because they'll send it to me in a tube, and then there's no folds.

Also, it's not like I PLAN to reprint it a billion times. I've never actually had to have anything reprinted yet. I'd wager that's the vast majority. You're not going to get many people rebuying the same pattern from you, because sewers generally take good care of their materials. If you're seriously banking on a portion of your business model being sales of the same pattern to the same person, you're sorely mistaken.

I will however buy a pattern at full price, and if I like it enough, continue buying the new releases, even if I don't have immediate plans to use it. I have a library of ~100ish sewing patterns and well upwards of 300 knitting patterns. Combined, I've probably only used like 10% of.

>>9567280
I'm not one of the previous anons but - I'm not from USA and shipping takes forever to get here. It's also more expensive than walking to the printers. Takes longer too, obviously. I rely on digital patterns 100% because there are no physical patterns readily available in physical stores all the way here in bumfuck nowhere.

If you do PDF you're guaranteed to get consistent international business.

Also, repeat business is me liking your stuff and buying all of it, and constantly looking forward to your new stuff, not having my patterns destroyed by cats/rain/coffee and buying a repeated pattern. That's Apple "your phone breaks in a year so you'll buy a new one!" business model, and it's pretty shitty business

>>9567280
I don't buy patterns I own over and over again. I make myself a copy on sturdier paper and use that to sew from. And I make new sturdier copies for myself every time it gets worn out.

>>9567280
I've never heard of anyone buying the same pattern more than once. Who does that? Why?

>>9566752
I think they just include a lot of ease for wearing stuff underneath - look at the models, a lot of the stuff is loose which to me says that the fit is supposed to run loose. That being said, by measurements I should also fit the M size perfectly and holy crap are the sleeves tight on the bolero I just made. I do go to the gym, but I didn't think my biceps were that big.

>>9567810
That's just it-- no one does that, clearly. Pattern maker-anon must be slightly confused about why we want digital patterns?

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Quick question.

Do any volumes of the OnS have a pattern like pic? I feel like there should be one somewhere, it's such an obvious and simple cut and half of Jane Marple's otome stuff seems come in this cut. I just can't seem to actually find it (admittedly I don't have the full OnS series).

Closest I've come to is the low waist black dress in OnS 4 (I'll end up modifying that if I can't find anything better). Just wanna know if other gulls know of a closer matching pattern that isn't low-waisted? I kind of really like the proportions on the at-waist cuts on JM dresses.

Do any of you anons happen to have the seifuku patter in OnS 9 and would be willing to share it? It's exactly what I'm looking for.

>>9567834
Have you looked at the green dress in OnS 8? It's not too low waisted and has a pretty simple cut. It has pintucks, but those are easy to alter out. I could scan the pattern too, if you don't have it and would like it.

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>>9567844

>Of course, the volume that I didn't buy because the cover looked like a Heidi cosplay
>green dress is actually on the cover

Well I feel like a right boob.

I really like the cape on page 18 as well, so I think I might just order this volume in. Thanks for the offer though, and thank you for pointing out which volume has the right pattern.

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>>9567834
Vol 1 has this pattern, though the neck is more rounded.

>>9567834
The major differences is that all of the patterns in OnS have princess seams, which is very typical Lolita construction. If you look at your JM dress and others in the same cut, the bodice is one piece. That being said, the black dress isn't a bad choice, it wouldn't be hard to chop a few inches off the bodice and add it to the skirt length. Less work than taking the pintucks out of the green dress in OnS 8 if you ask me.

If you're really set on the no-princess seam look, take a look at New Look 6341, view C. You'll still have to do some modifying, namely taking the neckline gathers out, and putting a different skirt on.

>>9567877
Oops, I mean 6431.

>>9567877
Noting that for the one piece, you can either do darts or draft a flat pattern. A good resource for drafting dartless seamless dresses for people with boobs is looking at Indian garment drafting videos

>>9567876

I saw that, but I always thought the shoulders would be on the side pieces, not the middle. Though, another anon pointed out it should actually be a one-piece bodice without princess seams, so it looks like most of these aren't right either. Thanks for looking though.

>>9567877

Wow, I can't believe I didn't notice that. I always just thought JM was really good at matching the seams.

>>9567897
>Indian garment drafting videos

Any more info on this, I'm not really sure where to start looking.

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>>9567998
What you want to look for is a kurti

This is the channel I used: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvxiSk5dH3U&list=PLBcBU_WV3EWfyEXxqBUpb--YZ_-3B7yyq

If you look at a lot of traditional Indian women's wear, it can be fitted, but there no darts or princess seams.

it's very straight forward. Once you have a sloper, you can make just about anything. For example, I used mine to draft this kimono sleeve bodice.

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>>9568051

I went back and looked, and it seems they do princess seams on at least a couple of dresses -- this stamp dress must be one of the ones I scrutinised more closely, and assumed the others are similarly done with princess seams and excellent seam matching (here the princess seams are only obvious because there's no way to match both the horizontal and vertical lines, so the red stamps are clearly cut into slivers in some places. Or so I thought). I remembered there had to be a reason the shoulder straps being on the sides and not the same piece as the centre was important (so that the seams are kept as vertical as possible, and then the horizontal part of the print would be easier to match, I thought).

Thanks for the link to the kurti. I'll probably make a muslin for both and see which one looks better on my bust size, plus it's always nice to have another method of dressmaking that preserves the print on the bodice.

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>>9568097
Because I'm babysitting a linux install and have time to burn, I trawled tumblr for some worn photos/not stock. It's a bit of a mixed bag. This one is clearly princess seamed.

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>>9568122
This one is plain.

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>>9568124
Princess seamed.

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>>9568127
And plain.

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>>9568129
>>9568127
>>9568124

Man, I really need to pay more attention to what I'm really looking at. I think I shat a brick finding out that JM does not in fact princess seam all their dresses and then just exercise excellent powers of seam-matching over the print.

Here's a small contribution for princess seams, as thanks for the dump.

Goddamn it anons you've reignited my lust for JM. I don't buy from them often because of the pricing and IMO what you get design and quality-wise is a bit lacking for those prices. I love their prints, though. Does anyone know of any fabric companies that produce similar, garment-quality printed fabrics? Obviously JM's stuff is custom but there has to be something out there, right?
I'm most interested in jewel tones, books, stamps, medals, crowns etc. aka all the stuff posted ITT.

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>>9568216

Sadly, most of the ones I've come across are some kind of quilting cotton, broadcloth being the most common.

If you don't mind that, this shop seems to carry a lot of the prints that commonly turn up in the OnS.

https://www.nippori-tomato.com/onlineshop/

And here is a taobao shop that carries them as imports (if you already have an open order):
https://shop113229535.taobao.com/?spm=2013.1.1000126.d21.959eebegNdTSK

Just be careful and watch out for "okkusu" fabric, that's a kind of linen intended for use to make bags and cushions and other non-clothing stuff.

>>9568129
Sauce on those shoes please??

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I made the skirt from >>9562437

Now I just need to coord it somehow.

Is quilting cotton suitable for lolita? I've seen loads of fabric that has a suitable print but it's quilting cotton.

>>9570514
This would have been so much cuter with a scalloped hem.

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>>9570805

I can vouch for you that most of the sweet prints in OnS is Japanese quilting cotton, and actually cotton is recommended for beginner lolitas — it’s not obviously cheap and shiny like polyester satin, so it’s not insta-ita material at least.

I’ll add that it really does depend on the fabric. If you pick it up and it looks cheap and meh (ie it’s thin and the weave looks rough and loose-ish), just put it back down and don’t use it. At the barest minimum it should at least feel better than plain kona cotton.

Obvious downside is that cotton needs to be ironed, and you should be making fairly structured dresses with it, as it doesn’t drape well. Should work pretty well for most common lolita cuts, though.

In case you're wondering, burando actually uses cotton twill, not quilting cotton. If you're making non-print then twill is still the better option. Unfortunately there's no ready-made cutesy cotton twill printed fabric available for home sewists, so we're stuck with quilting cotton.

>>9570514
Needs more fullness. Should be shirred at the waist, not pleated. Seconding that the hem would be cuter if scalloped following the print.

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>>9570840
That being said, branded quilters cottons are much nicer than the quilting cottons at Joanns. Free Spirit is decently thick, and so is Cotton + Steel. Go shopping at your local quilt shop, and check the clearance sections! I found pic related hiding in the clearance and got three yards for like $23 after tax. I think it'll probably go into something a little more otome though.

>>9565129
which pattern book is this from? that JSK pattern looks so cute.

>>9571233
OnS 8 iirc

>>9570514
That is nowhere near full enough for lolita. Should've followed the hem circumference advice here:
>>9553977
>>9553972

It'll still work for cute normie fashion though. Maybe style it in a more otome way if you want a jfashion look.

>>9570840
I've always found cotton twill to be too heavy for my taste, is it supposed to be like that? or did I just got a lesser quality? do you have any recommendations on a specific brand of cotton twill?

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>>9571408

Cotton twill also comes in different weights. Don't use anything from the Upholstery/general purpose/interior decor section. The twill there is meant for covering couches and cushions and is definitely too thick.

For dresses, the twill should be thicker than quilting cotton, but lighter than upholstery fabric. It's really more like a suiting weight material, it's not going to be as light as the soft polyester stuff most brand releases are made from nowadays. If you can find something that has a nice sheen to it (but not shiny satin), that's even better.

No brand recs, unfortunately. I only ever got as close as plain twill (suiting section) OR shiny cotton sateen twill that was way too shiny, too thin and just way too weird to consider putting on my body.

If you find cotton twill too heavy for the weather and don't want to use smooth quilting cotton, consider using lightweight cotton dobby. It has a textured weave to it, so it's not as boring or obvious as quilting cotton. The only downside is it seem to be a lot less popular and harder to find these days, especially if you're after the kind of beautiful patterned weave Baby used on their older karami jsk releases.

>>9571447
thanks!

For those of you who use Otome no Sewing patterns, what do you use to transfer the patterns from the mook sheet?

>>9571661
I use regular pattern drafting paper that's slightly see through. I just trace the pattern with a pencil, make modifications if needed and then cut it.

>>9571661
You can buy "medical tracing paper" on amazon that works well. I like "swedish tracing paper" for a slightly more durable option-- it's a bit like sew in interfacing.

>>9571673
>>9571700

Since someone mentioned PDF patterns, would anyone who owns OnS mooks like their patterns converted into digital files?

>>9571661
Tissue paper, like for gift wrapping.

>>9571661
'spa paper'

got a huge roll from amazon

>>9571661
I buy a roll of parchment paper from the baking aisle at the grocery store because I'm cheap

>>9571661
I prefer lightweight non woven interfacing (the sew in kind not the iron in). I always have trouble with my cat attacking paper patterns and tearing them, interfacing is more durable