/cg/ Climbing General

I mainly boulder indoors, since there's not much around me

It'll be 2 years in may and I've only done 1 v7, but a bunch of v6s. Highest outside grade was a v3, but that was when I was just starting to learn a while back

Used to do rope climbs before my belay buddies stopped coming, only did 5.11 top rope. They left after we took the lead/sport class so I only did a 5.9 sport climb. Would love to get back into roped stuff since I sprained my ankle pretty badly in November and it was starting to heal, but I injured it again. I wanna do easy top rope for a bit to let it heal, but still climb

Trying to convince my friend I boulder with to take the top rope class, but in the meantime I'm projecting this v7 which I think is more like a v6 with a beta I found that skips the crux move. It's these two really shifty sloppy pinches in the 45 degree wall, but I found double bumping my left hand and grabbing the right pinch as a meat hook and doing an awkward drop knee to get my to cross my right hand up to a slightly less worse pinch. The move is still hard, but it's easier than pinching those holds

Recently started setting for some local gyms. Anyone know if Evolv Cruzers are comfy/any good for climbing in?

File: LSP0167-YL.jpg (138KB, 900x900px) Image search: [Google]

138KB, 900x900px

>>922875
For climbing/bouldering you need special shoes, I use the ones in the pic

>>922875
I bet they're comfy, but on any difficult climbs, they'll be a major handicap.
Better than hiking boots, but not on par with proper rock shoes.

But I bet they're cool for approach/5.6 and under stuff.
My local gym has a $5 bin of shoes that are left in the gym or retired from their stock. I got a pair that I used for my first two months of climbing with very little trouble.
After that, I noticed that the tiny holes in each toe were hurting my technique.

File: Message_1440964514763.jpg (585KB, 2048x1152px) Image search: [Google]

585KB, 2048x1152px

>>921860
There is a toprope class? It's ultra easy though. The local place does a mandatory walkthrough and belay lessons on your first visit.

>>923578
Yeah, my gym makes you take a lesson for it. They just teach them the safety for it and how to tie the knot/belay. I don't think it should be a class, but whatever. More money for them to buy more holds I guess

Let's get some stats. What is your current highest redpoint on trad, boulder and sport. I'll start:

Trad: 6b / 5.10d
sport: 7a / 5.11d
Boulder: 6C / V5

>>926262


Trad : never tried
sport : 7a
boulder : 6C

a-are you me?

Bit heavy, been climbing casually for about a year and a half. V4 and 5.11. Taking it more seriously this year and looking to lose like 20lbs.

At what level should one start to considering hangboarding?

Any Ohio state climbers?

File: Shark2-2.jpg (36KB, 670x446px) Image search: [Google]

36KB, 670x446px

>>922875
Sharks master race (Pic related)

>>926262
Been climbing for 9 1/2 months
>Trad: Never done it
>Sport: 5.12
>Bouldering: V7

>>928940
You can hangboard at any level, really. Its a great way to improve your grip strength. I typically do 10 secs on 5 secs off for a minute then rest another minute for 8 minutes. You can try doing your front 3 fingers (Index, middle, ring) and then your back 3 (Middle, ring, pinky). Try switching between holds just so your not doing the same one the whole time.

>>923117
>>930077
Obviously I climb in actual climbing shoes. I was asking about shoes to set routes in, since wearing climbing shoes/taking them on and off for 8 hours is pretty annoying.

Found a pair of Cruzers for half off anyway so hopefully they're good.

>>930097
Oh I see if they are comfortable enough you should be fine, unless you are setting a very hard route, then you would want to use your main shoes for testing it. I'm not a setter so I don't know too much about the setting progress.

>>920637
new(ish) climber here.
5.11b TR
5.11a lead
v4 boulder

Just started climbing again after almost 3 years of not going. I ran out of money just when I was getting gud. Have been going for just under 2 months and I'm almost back to where I was. My main issue is getting my finger strength up which I'm working on by doing hang boards on various holds. My goal is to be able to do pull ups on my parents door frames at their house which are crimp hold sizes. Right now I can only hang, I don't have the grip to actually pull up.

TR: 5.10+ (at the gym I go to)
Lead: haven't done it yet but probably the same
Boulder: v3

Out of sheer curiosity, is anyone on here from Milwaukee?

Was climbing for a solid 2 months and a half. Got up to v3 which was cool. I'm currently backpacking so I have to put my climbing on hold. I'm anxious to get back it it though.

Besides hang boards. Is there anything else you guys suggest to increase grip strength?

>>920637
>Just won a local climbing competition at my university.
>flashed indoor V7, Squamish V5 ( will be improved this summer )

I'm working a lot of V9's in the Gym right now and want to get double digits this year.

Here is a link to a video of sesame Street direct, a beautiful V8 i have been working on. (not me in the video)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zk7anzUM2f4

>>935739
Farmer walks, over hand deadlifts, towel pullups, climb more.

>>935739
Climb every day.

Seriously, hangboards help but if you are still new they will create a disparity in your technique.

I have seen a couple of guys start climbing, and train on hang boards, and by campusing every day. Everyone of them has capped out at V5 and been unable to work problems outdoors.

If you want to get really strong, the trick is to climb with strong people. I met a couple of V10 boulders after climbing for about a year and a half and within 4 months I shot up from V4 -> V7.

File: jam-085.jpg (2MB, 1500x998px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 1500x998px

>>920637
>Be me
>16
>skeleton, competitive sport climber
>Climb like 5.13 indoors
>Lithe strength makes me stronger than most skinnyfat high schoolers.
>Mandatory lifting class
>people are really nice, encouraging, cool
>Decide to mix lifting and climbing
>Lifting upkicks appitite, gain 50 pounds in a year, mainly muscle
>Compete in powerlifting and bodybuilding, stop rock climbing
>Now
>3 years later
>Go scale some plastic with friends
>Lead 5.12 after not climbing for almost 2 years

The muscle memory never leaves. I felt just as smooth as ever, and because of the additional back strength I gained from lifting, I can do more pull ups than when I was competing. The extra weight is a pain for maneuvering though.
All in all, Im happy to be back (though Ive devolved from a spider monkey to a weekend warrior) and Im looking to finish up my trad rack and get back outside soon.
Who here has done big wall? Im looking to get out to Yosemite in the coming months and do some overnight bolted sub 5.9 action.
>>922875
What gym?
>>926262
Trad: 5.12a (out)
Sport:5.13a/b (in)
Boulder: v9 (Free willy, hueco tanks)
>>928940
When the limiting factor is strength, not technique.
>>934983
Welcome back. You should be able to do a pull up on a door frame just as easily as on a pull up bar, work on general strength.
>>935739
General weightlifting. Any pull movement will help. Weightlifting also makes backpacking very easy.
>>936418
Noice m80. You do ropes?
>>936460
I agree, weak people make me want to show off and mess around, strong people motivate me and make me angry

File: Honnold.jpg (143KB, 640x360px) Image search: [Google]

143KB, 640x360px

>>937033
No I don't really rope :( but I would like to. Most of the people in my sphere either boulder or trad.

I have to invest in a rack, and plan to soon though.

With that said, I have sent a few indoor 5.12... whatever that means.

>>937033
>>938220
Also that picture is amazing, I just stared at it for about 10min straight.

>>936445
>>936460
Solid advice. Once I get back from traveling I'll try and hit the gym hard

Does anybody have tips for training pinches? I'm awfully weak at them.
I'm thinking about building these pinch blocks that Steve Maisch uses:
http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/fingerboarding-for-maximum-strength.html

Any suggestions on other forms of training or perhaps critique on the above mentioned pinch blocks?

>>939102
Climb a lot of pinchy routes :^)

>>939102
Those should be fine but what I would do is pretty much this >>942609

>>939102

Sorry, >>942609 >>943142 are correct. If you want a bit more of a tip consider the following.

Take a pinch route that is at your limit, and work it until its static and easy.

rinse and repeat.

Pinches often require a lot of precise body positioning, similar to slopers. So climbing on them is really the best way to get better at them.

I had the same concern about two years ago. I asked one of the route setters at my gym to set a progressively harder pinch problem. at ~v5. They had no problem doing so, and it helped me a lot.

cheers

>>943302
>>943142
>>942609
Thanks for the feedback.

Luckily my local gym just reset the set of problems right at my limit and the new routes feature a lot of pinches.
Time to train!

Hello there,

I climbed at many different places, in Europe and north America, the level does not means much when you compare to people on other site.
Where I climb now I can lead 5.12b with much pain and in other places 5.12c easily.

To me climbing is not about level but about the feeling of pushing your own limits

>>948450
Where is you favourite place to climb?

File: BW Trip.png (2MB, 4000x1719px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4000x1719px

>>926262
Trad: 5.9
Sport: 5.13-14
Boulder V11 on a good day
been climbing too much plastic lately tbqh

Is anyone else going to the Boat Rock comp around Atlanta, GA on the 25th (I think)? I ask because I would like to see who I'm competing with. Also if anyone has been there before what is it like? I'm aware that its mostly slab, which is what I'm good at.

Also I found out that ever since I sent my first V7, I have been able to climb 7s much much easier now, and I am on my way to getting a V8 soon. Has this happened to anyone else? Just wondering.

>>926262
Trad RP: E5/Fr7a/+ (5.11/12?)
Trad OS: E3/Fr6b+/ (5.11?)
Sport: Fr7c
Boulder:V7 (f7a+)
Winter GU: V 5

>>948450
Agreed

>>939102
Try finding a pinch route made where holds are made out of resin. Resin pinches make your hand SOOOO much stronger than training on urethane since there's much less friction on resin, forcing you to pinch harder.

>>956684
>tfw my gym uses only resin holds

>>957972
Uh-oh. Where do you climb at?

It has become apparent to me that my right side of my body is less strong flexible than my left side. I can especially feel it in my hip and shoulder.

Any tips for helping my right side catch in strength and flexibility?

The weakness of my right side has prevented me from breaking into V3-V4 territory.

>>958384
I'm not the guy you initially answered about the pinch holds btw but I climb in central Italy.
Where do you guys climb?

>>964375
Suwanee, Georiga. I climb at a small gym so I get to know lots of people there.

File: 2_Butora_Acro_Climbing_Shoe.jpg (121KB, 1000x1000px) Image search: [Google]

121KB, 1000x1000px

>>926262
Trad: never done
Sport: 5.12b/7b?
Boulder: V12/ 8b+?
Not sure of the conversions to euro grades and I'm too lazy too look it up.

A little about me. I have been climbing for four years in April. I started climbing because I got in a pretty bad car wreck and I wanted to get fit somehow. I started going to my local gym once or twice a week then eventually became a member. I've been consistently climbing 4 to 5 days a week since then with no longer than a week break since I think. Last year I started doing some specific training to get stronger. These are the shoes I'm currently rocking. I love them. My favorite climbing area is definitely Hueco Tanks>>937033
Free willy is a fun problem.

>>937033
Setting for a local gym central coast CA