/herp/ officially official all-purpose care sheet of wonder and magic
>sand a shit
>use a thermostat
>read all the caresheets
>set up your tank before you get your herp
>PVC tanks are way better for most applications and worth the extra money
>do not fuck with your new herp for at least one week after bringing it home
First for terrapin master race
But seriously though I'm considering getting live plants for my RES. Anyone here have experience with that? I have no idea what kind of substrate to get. Are there "meme substrates" to avoid?
fun fact and pro tip: R. Trachyrhynchus geckos, one of the rarest New Caledonian geckos in the reptile hobby, are live bearers.
Holy shit they're like little beanie babies.
Why is the first reaction to seeing cute animals always "I want that"? It's such a cruel state of mind for both sides. All I know is that I really want one of those geckos but I have no room or money to keep and feed one.
I know. Trachys are especially adorable. Which makes it extra annoying that they are extremely slow breeders and very difficult to find even if you have the money to buy one.
Alright guys I need help now. I just looked at my Painted Turtle's plastron and saw it was orange. It's been like that for a while now but I just assumed it was natural coloring. That is, until I realized the orange areas could be scraped off, similar to plaque on a tooth. I'm freaking out right now, what could this be??? She's eating fine, but she does have some spots on her shell that could be early shell rot, only it won't cure no matter what I do. I posted about it last thread but got no replies. No pitting or anything, just whitish spots that look like water spots after you drip water on something and it dries, like the residue. I can't scratch that stuff off and betadine + dry docking does nothing.
I scraped all the orange off but here's what I think is either early shell rot or some kind of weird hard water staining.
this guy finally shed today, lookin fine
That looks like water spots or mineral deposits. Doesn't look like scale rot at all to me.
The orange is the part that makes no sense to me, I can't think of ANYTHING that would match that description very well.
I probably should have posted in here, I just made a thread about my friends chameleon.
That's a huge relief. I saw no signs of pitting or anything, and I have well water, so it's obviously full of minerals. I just had heard (or thought I'd heard) that you should just be able to scrape off hard water deposits with your fingernail. I couldn't get a single piece of that shit off any of the times I tried.
I took her to the vet a while ago to look at the spots, but she had, like, 4-5 of them then. He said it didn't look like shell rot and that she seemed very healthy. Also betadine and dry-docking has done squat. So I'm going to have to say mineral deposits.
And I wish I would have taken a picture of that orange shit. I freaked out and scraped it off as fast as possible. Could it have just been some kind of sloughed shell residue or something? It didn't seem fungus-like or anything.
>getting a high maintenance reptile as your first without doing tons of research
yeah, you shouldn't do that.
post pics of tank
it should be tall, it should be heavily ventilated, it also needs to be humid. They are almost entirely arboreal so no it will not drink from a bowl
Well I didn't get it, he got it and I was worried he wasn't doing everything properly so i've been researching and looking into how to do everything correctly. I can post a pic tomorrow of cage, but its really late here rn. its about 2x2x5 and entirely mesh walls and its a juvenile. The temp is usually fine because its in the apartment. Were trying to get the humidity to around 50%ish we have a dripper hitting a vine/branch area
My Ball Pyhton arrived today before work, i settled it in and it seemed very comfy in its temporary enclosure until i finish building its 4x2 vivarium.
Its about 7 to 8 months old and is pretty large, larger (in weight and girth) than both my Jungle Jaguar carpet and my corn snake.
Its just a wild type but its really beautiful
Seller told me its a girl, is there anyway to confirm? I named 'her' Bessie
Sexing young snakes is a little tricky to do by yourself. I'd trust the seller unless you have some reason not to on that. A herp vet can do it for you if you wish, it only takes a second to check.
Picked up 3 leucomelas at Repticon this past weekend. This is my second set of dart frogs, my first was a pair of Azureus' a couple of years ago.
I also picked up 3 yellow-spotted salamanders for my girlfriend.
Pretty similar to leo behavior. They can be a little more shy but that varies by individual. They eat the same insects leos eat; mealworms, superworms, crickets, roaches, butterworms etc. Care is similar as well with the major difference being AFTs require higher humidity.
The little idjut eats on the plastic plants sometimes. I feed her well-balanced meals of pellets, a couple mealworms, some varied greens, carrot shavings, boiled chicken and the rare fruit bits. If anything she's a little overfed. Still if she's gonna rip her decor up it might as well be safe to swallow.
I'll try looking into those plants, thanks.
Carpet pythons are tiny, it's not surprising your ball python looks bigger and weighs more, they're fairly heavy-bodied. Kinda like my BRB is a foot longer than my BCI but the BCI has more girth and weighs almost as much as the BRB. Just differing body builds.
Is this scale rot? I'm>>2060067
Other than this snake is behaving normally, moving around, exploring, not aggressive or showing signs of pain
Yeah i have to wear gloves with her
She strikes at me all the time everytime and i even have some marks on my hands
That was the first photo i took with it before i learned it was so skittish all the others are from today
not that anon but most of the pythons are fairly common, not to the extent of ball pythons or corn snakes are but woma and green tree pythons are fairly popular and I personally love carpet pythons.
Anon from last thread about to get myself a firefly ball
I have almost everything set up just need to grab some aluminum tape but I was wondering if the holes I have drilled into the plastic tub I have are going to be enough air flow. I have 21 holes that are 1/4'' in diameter. Should I enlarge those or make a second set or am I fine as is.
Plan on doing a test set up for the next few days to make sure all the temps and humidity stay good before I order him.
There's no real set amount of holes that you put into a tub. I mostly just do like a somewhat even amount of holes on each side and then measure the humidity myself and adjust accordingly. It's better to add more holes then attempt to cover them up if you made too much.
Is there a way to get a mexican black kingsnake in europe ? preferebly balkans, preferebly croatia ?
I assume there are king snake breeders in the EU somewhere. HAMM show in Germany is one of the biggest reptile expos in the world so at the very least you should be able to find one there.
yeah that works best. get the tank set up and turn on your heating, test the humidity. drill more holes if humidity is too high on average over a few days. most important is that there are holes on opposite walls and some of the lid so you get air flowing through.
Yes, I know. I mentioned because black mexican king is a popular species and people who work with kings regularly usually have them or, if not, can definitely refer you to others who do.
>up at night later than usual
>sitting in mostly dark room aside from computer monitor light
>it is gecko hours
>rustle rustle rustle
>*THUMP* rustle rustle
>there it is
pic is my male crestie from last year. he's about twice as active as any of my other geckos.
So a friend of mine dropped out of school and gave me his leo because he can't take her home. She seems more sluggish when moving than other leos I've known, and it's got me concerned. I know a photo isn't great for diagnostics, but does this look like a healthy gecko to you? She's eating fine despite the move and the temps are right, am I just worried over nothing?
An even better question to go along with that is, what are some lizards that don't need any live food?
Green iguanas are mean, and can't have a tegu because it would eat my free roaming cat snakes. Cresties I'm leaning towards but dunno
A lot of things. In short, they escape a lot, they die, I feel bad for them sometimes because I'm an idiot
depends on the worms desu as stupid as that sounds. Like, are they mealworms, where they're actually beetle larvae? Or are they earthworms?
Former is no, latter is tolerable.
That's like saying you shouldn't eat chicken if you disagree with chicken farms
the meats there, if you don't get it, it's gonna go to waste.
Better me own them than be given to some idiot or wind up at Petco.
Only one I'm posting after all the shit I got last time. Waglers viper (tropidolaemus wagleri)
if you're really that serious you could just get a breeder in the EU to get one shipped in for you, then they could ship it too you. Would probably add $100 to the pricetag, but if its what you want.
I remember when I was little a friend of my moms had a "defanged" cobra as shitty as that is it ended up regrowing them and nailing his ass one day, nearly killed him.
Love the way they look, wasnt aware they could come in such a light coloration though.
this guy also has a Stenodactylus gecko. Observe water licking. My late leopard gecko used to do this the same way. He wasn't interested in the water inside the bowl. He only wanted to lick the condensation from the outside of it.
First time I've seen him doing the mouth opening thing.
mine is super aggressive (granted he is 2 years old and i got him off someone who mistreated him) and is always with his mouth open and bobbing his head and lunging at me when i want to change his food or water
you can improve this with patience. When doing cage maintenance, move very very slowly. on days where no cage maintenance required, sit by cage and rest your hand inside for 15 minutes.
Once he stops lunging but is still gaping (opening mouth at you), there is another trick you can do. Have some fresh greens on hand. When he gapes, slowly insert a piece of veg in to his mouth. He will either chew it or spit it out. Move hand slowly towards him. If he gapes again, put veg in mouth. Keep in mind i don't mean stuff his face with veg. More like rest a piece on his lower jaw.
you know what i learned this from a youtube video i looked up when i was caring briefly for a rescue beardie. here we go:
i know it looks pretty silly but it totally works.
this guy again here
Having issues keeping the humidity low enough to the correct point
Have heat down damn near perfect but my humidity is like 85%
I drilled holes into the top of the tub to help alleviate it a minute ago and hopefully that will help some but if any anon has some advice for me Id be very greatful
It's been 5 months since my sunglow boa shed, and she's grown right around 6" since her last shed. Idk why she's holding onto her sheds when she's growing so much.
As long as your snake is growing and eating well, I wouldn't worry too much.
Change the bedding to a higher humidity bedding and reduce air flow, that's about it.
Switch to a low humidity bedding like aspen. 85% isn't too too high, I keep my ball python 65-75% and he does well with it. Pic related.
I'm using aspen
My readings might be a bit higher than norm because apparently some of the bedding got soaked during a test period somehow and I have no clue how.
Pretty tube dude btw ordered mine just earlier today and was last one in stock from BHB so gonna see how reputable they are since they seem fairly nice, wont ship till monday though
I have a dumb question that can never be properly answered:
do reptiles without eyelids (my case is a crested gecko) feel pain or stress from white light? such as holding it in a normally lit room.
(little fucker is terrified of me anyways, god damn had the thing for a year and it still thinks I'm some kind of predator or something....)
I like Brian. He's a nice dude but I've heard some not so nice things about their customer service but take that with a grain of salt. I personally would still order from them if I could.
Yeah then just give it some time and see if it's down in the next 12-24 hours.
Yeah he's pretty but he's pretty much a strictly hands-off snake due to his sensitivity to stress, that photo was taken while I had him out to dampen his bedding.
BHB's business is reputable as long as you're not a breeder trying to take part in their special projects, like the scaleless ball pythons. Brian's reputation as a keeper isn't too good either due to his husbandry practices and badmouthing, but generally they conduct good business if all you're doing is buying a generic pet.
If i so much as open the door he jumps out of the cage at me, and if i put my hand in there he bites me hard enough to make a serious wound.
I'm trying to get him to be more friendly but he is extremely aggressive and ALWAYS tries to bite
Okay, couple things to try.
>take something that smells like you, like a sock or a T-shirt, and put it in his tank
>sit in front of his tank with the door opened just a crack and talk for a few minutes a day
>wear gloves when changing out food/water
This beardie may never be as docile as captive bred ones usually are but I don't think it's a lost cause.
This morning after leaving a water bowl in the tub and the uth plugged in all night set to 90 I woke up and it was at 99% humidity
Should I start making bigger holes and more now because I guess 21 holes around the side and 6 on top about 1/4'' arent gonna cut it
Hmm... you might need to invest in a dehumidifier.
First though, try cutting a big square out of the lid and install mesh screen. Hot glue the screen to the plastic on the outside of the lid, then duct tape around the edges for added security.
So I saw this Jewtube video of a dude keeping four full grown pixies in a big Tetra-Faunta tank. It was one male and three females.
Is this full retard or can you safely do this?
A lot of people trying to get into the scaleless heads have gotten shady business from Brian. He doesn't give any info on them, just expects people drop a lot of money on the animals to jump into the project blind.
There were originally 2 or 3 scaleless heads and one of them died, and he basically just let it disappear into the wind and ignored inquiries on how it died.
Any sort of controversy or questioning of him and his practices usually turns into cussing them out and throwing a fit, and then making a passive-aggressive interview, blog post, or video about it. He's refused to change his husbandry practices, and recently tried to sell and rack system on the side of the road that was absolutely filthy, keeps monitors and giant constrictors in racks, cohabs leopard geckos and bearded dragons and the geckos are abnormally frightened of the human presence, etc. etc.
The most he's done to improve was downsizing a bit because he admitted he couldn't keep up with all the animals, but he's not downsizing much and isn't changing anything else.
Yeah a UTH isn't gonna do anything to dry out your humidity. For some reason I though you were using overhead heat. If nothing is working, I really advise you to get a CHE or something.
But first, try ordering a new hygrometer or recalibrating it if you can, it could be reading wrong.
Yea I've been using pic related and have been wondering how well it is actually working for a bit
It doesnt handle sudden changes well at all and seems to only change in max 2%/degree increments per minute max
I drilled twice as many holes into the tub and have widened all of them with a bigger drill bit and the humidity has dropped down 12% since
My dog bumped into me also when I went to put a bowl of water in for the new test so there is a decent sized wet spot in the aspen now also
i love him, but this fucker is gross. for the past few feedings, he's squeezed his frozen until its insides pop out. and then he leaves it and makes me heat it up for him again.
also, he has a benis on his neck
Oh wow. That kinda puts a damper on how much I like the guy. I mean he does seem pretty nice though. It does explain why virtually nothing has been heard of about the scaleless since it came out.
Any more links to/stories of Brian's fuck ups?
That's pretty normal actually, I haven't seen a hygrometer that can show humidity levels immediately. It takes a few minutes, like up to 20 minutes or an hour.
Just remove what you can of the aspen that go wet, even with the humidity aside all that aspen is going to mold and you'll have to throw it away anyways.
If it's exploding, you're warming the rat/mouse up too hot and thawing it out too quick, fast thawing and too hot of water will thin the skin, causing it to burst open. Not to mention potentially cooking it.
My bearded dragon has been staying on the cool side on a branch and has been eating less and looks lazy now. Is he going through brumation or is he sick? Temps have been around 98-102 on the hot side
I replaced as much of the wet aspen as I could earlier and it helped a very small amount, also grabbed a smaller water dish
I could get temp and humidity parameters that I'm happy with the top completely off and I can't figure out how to make a bootleg top that will stay on
Currently have the tub in a different room and the humidity seems to be sitting at 80%with the top on but now the ambient temp in the tub is 73
Yeah unless a new hygrometer is showing different readings, I can't really advise you on what to do with your tub, I haven't encountered this problem even in a house that stays 50-60% year round that can get higher in he summer.
As I said earlier, your humidity really isn't that high, but 80% humidity at only 73F is not good at all, the temps need to be boosted a lot. Too low of temps = RI, even without the humidity.
Even if you can't get it lower than 80%, I doubt it will harm your snake as long as it isn't wet in there and you keep it warm enough.
Humidity doesn't really do harm unless it's combined with wetness and is something excessive like 85-90%+ for species that don't need that high of humidity. Or the humidity is too low. I'd rather have my humidity 20% too high in most cases than 10% too low myself.
Ball pythons are subtropical, so it's not like they're not used to humidity above 60%. In Ghana, for example, there are times in the year where it gets 70-95% for extended periods of time, as well as periods that fall below 50%. Dehydration sets in with too low of humidity, but higher humidity doesn't usually cause health issues without overly wet conditions (like you'd get if you misted your cage for humidity or a dumped over water dish left to set, etc.).
so, room temp. water in the bathroom sink is too hot? because that's what i've been thawing them in. it takes a few hours, but it gets the job done. i'm not joking when i said that this asshole intentionally squeezed the living fuck out of it - he took about 10-15ish minutes just constricting it until it started to burst.
no, but I can't imagine that being soaked in water for hours is very good for structural integrity either
when I thaw mine I just set them out on a paper towel for like 3 hours, and then put them in a sealed baggy in some warm water to finish heating it up
mine's also kept in a sealed baggy when i thaw it - flesh never actually touches the water. like i said, he's had no problems eating quickly before, just recently he's been on this habit of striking, constricting, but not swallowing.
pretty fuckin much. idk if he'll do the same weirdo behavior to live prey, since his breeders had him on live before i got him and switched him to frozen (the transition was pretty smooth, he's a fuckin glutton). once he gets a little bigger, i might buy him a live as a treat and see then. for now though, i'm gonna have to put up with his disgusting eating habits
Guys I just found this mushroom growing in my Pacman frog's enclosure. I picked it out and threw it away. It wasn't there the other day.
Is there something wrong with my leo?
This poop kinda looks different, a little lighter on the one end...
Feeder insect was a cricket, I usually gutload them by feeding them apple slices.
I have a question. I've had my bearded dragon for 8 months, and she's 10 months old now. She used to eat loads, but recently she's not been eating anything, locusts, morio worms, calci worms, crickets, salad, meal worms. She doesn't want to eat anything. However she's really active, always running about, whenever she hears me come down she'll be waiting up against the glass, if I don't take her out she'll start running back and forth on the glass to try get out/get my attention to get her out. Her head is always held high, she never has any darkened colour to show she's stressed. Yet she barely eats anything. Why?
Hey /an/ I need some advice
My grandma brought back from Death Valley in the 1970's a desert tortoise. Since that time, he has lived outside in her back yard during the summer andhibernating under the house during the winter. In august, my grandmother passed away, and through various shenanigans I now own her house. The tortoise (Duke) is sleeping right now but in the summer he'll be back out and about. Here's my problem: I know that desert tortoises are now endangered. I've been thinking about giving him up to the local aquarium (it's also known for it's animal relocation program) so he could go out and help breed back the population. Duke is a beloved family pet, but I believe I could convince my family to let him go.
How do I make sure Duke is going to a good place? Does anyone know of any good desert tortoise stud farms? Any general advice?
Pic related is Duke chomping down on his meal of choice, romaine lettuce
my pacman bros hanging out.
I have an 8 tub rack coming in the mail, so my collection will soon be doubled
I let the tub completely dry out yesterday evening and have had it set up for about 14 hours and the temps are still a little low but the humidity is sitting at 77% which ill deal with if it stays around there once I get the temperature up 5 or 6 degrees
Funny thing is my uth keeps kicking off because the probe attatched to the thermostat I have reads its 90 and I have that covering about 1/3-2/5 of the tub
Thanks for all the help though anon I appreciate it
interesting, you could probably contact these people http://www.tortoise.org/cttc/adoption.html
or just fish&game would probably be fine.
This is a weird situation though, do you have any documentation at all that proves how old the tortoise is? Because I would hate for you to get in trouble for them thinking you took an endangered animal even though it was taken before it was endangered.
If anything just make sure you don't decide to release him on your own.
Yeah we do. Some jackasses stole him in the 90's and dropped him in the botanical gardens. F&W found him and gave him to the very same aquarium I mentioned. Luckily we had pictures of us with Duke dating to the 70's and several non family witnesses all attested to it. And god no I wouldn't do that. I live in virginia and if I released him right now, he would simply freeze to death.
Thanks for the information, I appreciate it
So the ball python i got last week didn't eat today.
I'm not too worried since i know they sometimes go off food. but the breeder had told me she hadn't eaten the week she was sent to me either.
she still looks good and fat just doesnt show any interest in the rat i gave her.
At what point should i get worried?
>been taking care of a bp for about 9 months now
>out of morbid curiosity, yanked up a growth chart
>the average weight listed at 9 months was 440 grams
>mine's only in the 150 range
Yeah, I've cooked pinkies in pure hot tap water before. I've never had a furred rodent rip open, but I prefer to mix a bit of cold water to make it between lukewarm and hot when I thaw them out.
It also takes less than 30 minutes for me to thaw anything smaller than a medium rat, why is it taking you a few hours?
You may have to set the thermostat temp up higher then. Do you have a temp gun to read surface temps? Usually with UTH/heat tape you'll end up having to set the thermostat a few degrees higher than what you want to get it right. No problem, anon, I think you're sitting good at your current humidity, that's about where I keep mine. Hopefully everything gets squared away so your little guy can move in.
When she loses over 20% of her weight. Which could take 6 months or more. Just offer weekly and she'll take it eventually, don't worry about growth, she'll catch back up when she starts eating. I see a lot of people worried about their ball python's growth rate when they go off food for 4 months, but they will go right back to growing, it will just take a little extra time to get to size.
That's a really heavy 7-8 month old. Your ball python is the same weight as my 9 year old. You sure it's under a year?
Growth charts for BPs are stupid. Their growth isn't linear at all and is completely dependent on their feeding habits.
If your snake isn't fat or skinny then it's perfectly healthy weight wise. Just make sure you can see the signs of what makes a snake unhealthy.
Any particular symptoms to look out for besides the respiratory stuff? Only unusual behavior so far has been her camping out the new humidity hide I set up even though she shed 4 weeks ago
we're just taking about weight here.
A ball pythons spine should be visible but it shouldn't be too triangular. It should be too fat either. You should look up more specific info on that.
I'm not 100% sure that it's under a year but that's what the breeder told me, she is about 70cm maybe? Its shorter than my corn but much fatter, I need to weigh her.
The breeder said he was feeding it medium to large rats but that's insane
My dart frogs are going to be the end of me. I decided to try to find a new home for em as keeping up with the flies is a massive pain. I moved one group into a very large grow out container and it looks like they've stopped eating. I'm hoping it's a stress issue. I'm convinced the other group has some sort of parasite as they were all super thin when I moved em over. I had been keeping up with feeding of fruit flies and springtails, but they were so elusive I could never get a good look at em.
With ball pythons, the tighter the fit of the hide the comfier they are right? I have a hide that was pretty roomy so I piled in some substrate to make it a bit smaller. He still has room to navigate around and he's in there now. Do you think he feels more secure or is having a hide full of substrate a bad idea.
>/herp/ officially official all-purpose care sheet of wonder and magic
>>sand a shit
>>use a thermostat
>>read all the caresheets
>>set up your tank before you get your herp
>>PVC tanks are way better for most applications and worth the extra money
>>do not fuck with your new herp for at least one week after bringing it home
I just bought low quality halloween crested gecko baby (few dots) for $30, but I had the option to get harlequin pinstripe baby for the same price. Should I switch to harlequin pinstripe?
Or should I get tiger morph adult male for $40? Am I losing money on my current deal? (Florida)
pic similar to what I got now
If I have choice to change to this one, should I?
Yeah, the majority of ball pythons don't need to eat medium rats...
Also that's a really really heavy weight for a snake of that length, could you get some photos of it's body tone?
My bp is ~109 cm and he's 1.38 kg.
No, keep your current one. If this is your first gecko you won't care much its appearance anyway. Their behaviour and personality are the much more interesting features.
My male crestie, for example, is a bright and semi-expensive extreme harlequin, but I really really don't care about that anymore. I would love him just as much if he was a dull brown normal. My favorite gecko, of the six I own, is a normal pictus gecko female. She cost $25. The point is unless you're trying to breed (don't) the visible genetics of your herp has very little meaning. Personality is what makes the pet.
Ripped off how? I don't understand the question.
Crested geckos are very plentiful already in pet trade. There is no reason for individual owners to breed. You would have a hard time selling the offspring.
Why do people say that northern BTS make better pets than others?
Are other types really more difficult or less tame? I like the looks of the Halmaheras better but if northerns do actually make better pets I'll get one of them.
My leopard gecko hasn't eaten anything in almost 4 days. The two days before that his appetite was about half his usual food. He's just a juvenile, but not too small. I'm pretty sure he's been getting ready to shed but I just wanted to ask if it's normal for Leos to stop eating so early before shedding. The day he sheds he usually eats like a pig again though, and he does have a plump tail/has been active.
My gf wants to get a snake. What would you guys recommend for a beginner.
It's her first time owning a herp and I have no real experience with them either, so preferably something manageable.
how much space do you have? and what size are you comfortable with?
corns snakes and king snakes are very very popular for a reason. They not too big and very easy to take care of
about the same size and difficulty but not as common are things like rosy boas and children's pythons
ball python are also pretty easy to take care of and get a bit chunkier.
hognose snakes are fairly small and are growing in popularity
there's a long list of snakes to choose from I suggest you shop around the classifieds on kingsnake.com and fauna classifieds. Pick out something you like the look of and then find care sheets on it.
Thats normal, your gecko will be eating his skin, which is practically a meal.
It really depends on the gecko. Some will eat before a shed. Some fast for a week before.
After a shed also depends on the gecko. Some will begin eating again the day after. Others wait a couple of days.
Mine doesn't like to eat 2 days before he sheds, and then doesn't resume eating for a full 7 days after he sheds.
There's a really huge, long list of what I could offer. But it's only going to make a decision harder unless she can figure out what she wants in a snake.
Does she want a small or medium-sized snake (I wouldn't advise a large snake or a giant for a beginner), does she want something diurnal or is nocturnal/crepuscular ok, does she want something slow-moving or fast and agile, does she want a climber or one that stays on the ground more, is she comfortable with a snake that can regularly go on fasts anywhere from 2 months to a year? The list goes on and on.
Corn snakes and ball pythons are the most popular beginners. Corn snakes start out really teeny, so that can be awkward, but their care is super easy and they're diurnal so you can watch them more. Ball pythons are super chill, but it can be hard for a beginner to get temps/humidity correctly and they are infamous for their fasts. Which is where that 2 months to 1 year bit comes from. The fasts usually don't affect their health negatively, the key is monitoring weight and body tone, and pretty much just waiting them out. But on top of that, they are supremely picky snakes and will picky about anything from the prey you offer (rat, mouse, ASF, etc.) to the exact minute detail of how you present the prey. It can be hard for a beginner with no experience figure out ways to present prey to an animal that is as particular as a ball python, and people don't normally start out used to an animal that can fast for months and not bat an eyelash, even as babies.
best beginner snake is either corn or rosy boa. the thing that puts them above many other similar species for beginners is docile nature, medium-low humidity requirement and good consistent feeding response. Personality wise i like rosy boas a little better just because they're pretty goofy when they get in the mood to be adventurous.
Many other species in the colubrid family (corns are a member of this) are also great first time reptile, however they can be a little more feisty in their behaviours and some people get turned off by that.
My tube dude arrived from bhb yesterday
Snapped this picture of him before I put him in his tub. Pretty happy with him and was a bit surprised how mellow he was immediately out of the bag, been having to keep an eye on gf she keeps wanting to play with him and take him out.
I saw a few fruit flies in my pythons tank after I watered the plants.
Should I be worried? I have some spray to kill invertebrates that's plant and vertebrate safe but I want to know more about their effects first.
What type of Tortoise would you say this is? I've looked and it looks most identical to a Russian Tortoise.
I'm thinking about getting a chinese water dragon (Physignathus cocincinus). I've cared for all sorts of herps but my lizard experience is limited to green anoles and bearded dragons. From what I've read CWD aren't for beginners, how much experience do they require?
I don't plan to get one anytime soon though. In my current living situation I don't have room for any more reptiles.
Go to mist gargoyle gecko. She has chosen to sleep at the front of her tank right at the latch for the front doors (exo Terra tank). She has front right foot on right door, back right foot of left door, body extended across the air vent bet right below. Impossible to open doors because she will not move. Thanks Gilligan. You silly silly gecko.
Open screen top and mist from above.
>playing a video game
>bearded dragon on my desk
>hear a quiet farting type sound
>glance and see my beardy just staring at me
>poops on my desk like keeping eye contact locked with me
Bhb said that this little guy was eating on adult mice and as you can see at his thickest hes about 1 inch across, do you guys think it will be fine to give him an adult or should I go for a medium size mouse when I go to offer to him in a few days
My douchey sand boa has decided he isn't interested in eating. This has been going on for a month and a half. He's still fat and active, he shed recently, so should I be worried that he's off his food?
What is this reptile? One anon from /trash/ was wondering what it is.
She's already starting to get fat and put some heft into that tail
And I think she may have shed again, her patterns seemed darker and more pronounced when I fed her last night
My leo CONSTANTLY tries to break out, she usually comes out after the lights go out, she sits just behind the tank opening, nearly waiting for me to open up the tank.
When I do open it, she puts her head out, and climbs on my hand/ the table where the tank is located, exploring the tank/glass whilst looking inside again. She sometimes crawls up to my shoulder, or the worst thing, tries to jump off from said table.
I'm happy that she is active, but my question is, am I doing something wrong? Or is this normal leo behavior?
I've got this pic related Styrofoam box and was thinking of putting it into the cool side of my bearded dragon's tank so he can climb on it for fun and hide in it, anyone have experience with Styrofoam?
Hey guys, got another update on The Boss.
If you haven't seen me posting before, I got a young BP with a lesser morph from a co-worker some time ago. The snake was heavily abused, being cut with a knife in several places and what appears to be a burn mark from a lighter.
A few weeks ago I got him to take his first feed since October. It was a large adult mouse.
I tried feeding him a small rat last week, but he didn't go for it, as he was starting shed. I kept the rat alive and tried feeding him today, and The Boss totally went for it!
He's still shedding, but at least some of it has come off in the last week. I have given him a few warm baths and rubbed some loose shed away with a soft bristle toothbrush.
Here he is in the throes of his latest meal.
Here he is chilling out after his meal. He likes to hide in shadows so I didn't really photograph him eating this time.
I think having to swallow that fat rat loosened up some of his stuck shed.
His wounds are doing excellent. There is still going to be scarring, but the skin underneath is completely closed under the scabbing. Some of the scabs have come off with this latest shed, and it's looking nice and white underneath.
Pictured you can see the remnants of his largest cut wound, and the burn mark.
He's doing very well, and I'm really happy he healed from this. The wounds he suffered were horrific, and the asshole who did this to him I'm sure will burn in the fires of hell.
For now, he's going back in his shelf, I'll get a bigger enclosure setup for him once he's fully healed.
I think this pic accurately shows what a fat little shit she's become. Sooo cute
Does anybody happen to know what would cause this pattern? He is a Banana Fire and the parents were a super fire and a banana.
The pattern is something I've never seen before and he's the only one from his clutch that looks like this.
I also got some new pets at the latest NARBC. I've had red-Syed's once before. They are really some beautiful animals.
tfw all of the venomous snakes are the most beautiful
but carpet pythons arent venomous
If they're talking about the dark speckles, that's just part of the banana morph, they gain speckles as they age. But they said pattern, so I don't think that's what they're referring to, since the speckles aren't a pattern.
Unfortunately I know nothing about ball python morphs so I can't answer their question.
Why are bearded dragons so much more popular than blue tongue skinks?
I assume it's more of a combination of price and availability because from my experience skinks are superior to dragons in almost every way while still having very similar requirements for care.
>and they exclusively fruits and veggies as far as I know
thats incorrect, they require protein, given in a variety of forms like chicken, eggs, insects, etc
>Skinks also require much lower temps and higher humidity
also not neccessarily true depending on the subspecies of bts
the mainland species ideally shouldn't have a humidity higher than 40% and basking spot of 90-100 while the island ones need slightly higher humidity and lower temps
I need help. I want another snake, and I can't decide what kind so I need ideas. I only a few requirements and they're pretty broad, I want it's adult size to be between 8-15 feet no more or less, I'd like something that has a decent temperament, preferably but not necessarily something colorful, and no red tail boas because I already own some. I can do 'beginner' to 'difficult', or however you'd word it, level care I.e. no snake is too 'advanced'. Please help me choose my newest addition anons.
Your bp looks so similar to my female that I had to double take and make sure that wasn't one of my old pics reposted. I don't have a picture at the moment but seriously it's freakishly similar.
I have a bit of a question about my bearded dragon. I've noticed recently that on frequent mornings when I go down I'll see her at the glass of her enclosure with quite darkened colours showing that she's not happy. But then like as soon as I take her out and have her on my lap her colour will go very light in just a few minutes.
It's not like her enclosure is small, it's quite big. Could it just be that she likes to be with me more than being alone? :D
I always loved reptiles. They are fascinating animals to watch and to care for.
I used to have a Mali Uromastyx when I was a kid, but my uncle killed it by accident. I was 10 at the time and I remember I cried for a whole day. I didn't learn that my uncle was responsible until about a year ago (I'm 23 now).
But the circle of life continues and I recently bought the most friendly rat snake ever. I prefer sneks now. They're extremely low-maintenance for most of them, I really don't mind the frozen rodents and I find them more pleasant to handle than lizards.
But the best thing about reptiles: they always seem to be smiling.
So I found this turtle outside that was stuck, and now I wanna feed it cause it's probly been there awhile, obv gave it lettuce but it's not eating it, or does turtles just check their food out before they eat? But anything else I can give it? Pretty sure the lettuce isn't organic or anything so is that bad?
Tdlr what should I feed this turtle
No good digital cameras were expensive in 2003. Mine had slightly lighter colours.
My rat snake
8'-15' is a little large to be considering boa constrictors anyways, they don't often get above 8'.
You're limited pretty much to the giants. Retics, Burms, scrub pythons, etc. Retics and Burms are going to be the easiest of the giants, scrubs have terrible attitudes, and anacondas require a mostly aquatic set up (which people choose not to provide despite their natural habitats and morphology). Bull snakes get pretty big as well, up to 9' I believe, and they can be laid back, but still have that colubrid attitude.
The fact that you can't actually keep an entire house at the proper temps and humidity for a ball python probably also had a huge impact on the snake's health. Making it easier to become infected or the infection just helping to kill it quicker.
Exactly. They should not be taken out and handled when a cat/dog can have access to them, and any cages should be cat/dog proof, and if they aren't, they should be locked in a room the cat/dog can't get into. This goes for any other predatory pets that could harm or kill your reptile.
To add onto this I had a snake escape once, had to lock my cats in a single room because this snake could have easily killed my cats. Found him inside of a toilet. I had a pretty heavy rock on his chamber, too. Animals are close to as smart as people when it comes to physical things. That is why a snake can strike before our eyes can see it. That is a type of intelligence that is above us.
Then it's simply not sturdy enough. I've never had a snake escape or another pet break into any of my enclosures, except two times that I forgot to lock the enclosure and the snake got out. My tubs are closed off in a separate room because the cat could knock them over and potentially break into them. The whole trailer is out of alignment, which is why it's great my cat doesn't bother the door because the only thing keeping it shut is a blanket lodged in between the door and jamb. But you believe me anon, if she was like your cat I'd have found a way to reliably lock that thing long ago so that it doesn't matter if she tried to open it. I'm still looking into the best way to install a padlock on the door regardless, though.
So, get a sturdier enclosure or keep your reptiles in a LOCKABLE room that your cat can't get into. Get a dead bolt, something. The animal is your care, so it's your job to make it as safe as possible.
I think my ball has hit a growth spurt
she had just finished shedding exactly one month ago, and checking on her right now it looks like she's clouding up again.
Her sheds have never been this close together before
I have a pretty docile texas rat snake but I'm wondering what´s the best way to tame him. Should I leave him alone when hes pissed off and doesnt want to be taken or is he going to associate biting and hissing with not being held?
Here's Starburst again. Anybody think they know what morph she is? Nothing I'm seeing online really looks like her. She had 0 patterns before her first shed, so up until then, I was under the impression that she was a Blizzard. Now I have no idea.
Or is she just some bastard mutt of a gecko? It wouldn't surprise me, given that she came from a pet store
That is either a tremper albino or a rainwater albino. Tremper if the eyes are silver, rainwater if they are mostly dark.
The brown patterns will separate in to spots as she reaches adulthood.
2 of my bps are not eating, i know this is normal but would still like some advice from your personal experiences, how do you get your ball pythons to eat after a few weeks of fasting?