New thread → >>2051316
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Zoanthid rock of death. For any that may not know, each of these polyps on this rock contain a toxin called Palytoxin, which is the most deadly organic toxin known to science so far. 1 Gram of each of those polyps is enough to kill over 120 fully grown men.
That's not an aquatic penis. This is an aquatic penis.
And this is what you do with an aquatic penis.
As long as you wash your hands after every time you put your hand in the tank, and most importantly when you touch them, and it's a non issue. Also cant put your hand in the tank if theres a cut on it. I know of a lady who was fragging zoas one day, went home and went to sleep, rubbed her eye during the night, and woke up blind in one eye. She now has a glass eye.
naw, cuz fuck petco. I wish every fish in their tanks would drop dead, not for the sake of the poor fishes, but maybe they'll realize their not the kind of company that should be selling live animals like that. Not that they ever would.. It's just a fantasy of mine. Although nothing pisses me off more when I go to petco and they have a shitty fucking frag rack, with corals that are half covered in cyano and dying.
Because they're incredibly beautiful. You'd be shocked at the number of things in the average reef that can kill you. Zoa's just happen to be the most deadly. I've gotten sick from not washing my hands (incredibly stupidly) after fragging montiporas, and they're not really even known for being toxic. I assume at this point that just about everything in my reef could kill me, because I know better.
I've had emerald crabs break skin on my fingers. Clownfish aggressively biting my hand to get it out of their territory, and coral make me sick. Pretty sure my tank wants to kill me. But thats why I'll forever hold them prisoner in their glass cage! MUAHAHAHAHAHA
Also not him, but yeah. Specifically the "electric" blue variety. The wild types are rather less gaudy imo.
Honestly, if i do have one I'll probably just let him grow into adulthood, and keep him as a pet. he appears to be a smasher and not a spearer, since I've never had a fish die, and the only casualty has been the crabs. In my tank, literally anything can eat/kill eachother and I don't care, as long as nothing harms my coral. Once something hurts my corals, its game over.
I went the other route. I've always liked marine angels more than the corals they like to nibble.
If I have any corals in my tank it's just because my fish don't like to eat that type.
I'm a horticulture student, so I'm just naturally drawn to things that grow and accentuate the landscape. I really only keep fish in my tank so that when a friend comes over and looks at my tank they dont go, 'this is a fish tank right? well where are all the fish?'. The cubicus boxfish will be the first fish I've actually wanted. Hopefully he doesn't nip corals, but i do expect him to eat all my featherdusters, which is unfortunate since I have 7 species, and their absolutely beautiful animals. Cubicus boxfish are just to fuckin cute to ignore.
I'm interested in building a tank for a zebra moray but I can't get a clear answer on what size tank it needs at its adult size.
I have heard between 150 and 500, but I don't know which of these is close to an educated, right answer.
A 150 would be fine if he's the only inhabitant. Moray's aren't incredibly active, and don't really need a lot of room. Just be prepared (and I'm sure you are aware of this) to eel proof your tank. They are escape masters, and most of the ones that I've known in captivity have died via floor surfing because of improperly sealed tanks. I think the reason why they want such big tanks for them is because they eat a lot, and their messy eaters so they foul water quickly. Just get a very good skimmer and do frequent small water changes and a smaller tank should be just fine.
I've never had the guts to try a boxfish just cuz of the stories of them wiping out entire tanks with poison.
I don't know if it's true, just never wanted to find out. They are cute as hell though.
also remember to glue your rocks in place, monster fish will knock rocks over and kill themselves or break the tank.
actually so will turbo snails. So it's not a bad idea no matter what you keep.
I've always heard that to. The only times I've heard of that happening is when the fish was new to the tank (like less than 1 month), which to me suggests that the toxin is diet based, and after they leave behind their wild caught diet and switch over to what we feed, the toxin will slowly disappear. That's purely conjecture though, and have absolutely no scientific basis for that, just my personal observations. To that end though, I have my cubicus on hold at my favorite fish store (the people that work there and insanely nice, and we've become friends. The owners wife runs up to me and gives me a hug whenever I walk in, and the other women there gives me free coral like everytime I'm there) But it's chilling in their tanks right now, and by the time I pick it up it'll of been there for about two weeks, so I'm hoping it should be fine. The toxin only effects fish though, so my corals and inverts will be fine if the worst happens, except for the following ammonia/nitrite spike.
speaking of that, does anyone else truly love their LFS? Mine has never given me bad advice, and has always steered me towards making the correct, prudent choice for my reef. They don't have the greatest selection, but they will try very hard to get you whatever species you want. I've never gone in and out of that store without hanging around and talking for at least an hour, with the longest being over 5 hours at this store.
and after being a customer for over 8 months, I always get around a 25% discount, and they give me free coral literally every time i walk out of that place. Half the time they dont even tell me, and i get home and find a shroom or a zoa colony in my bag.
Worth the risk IMO, especially if you run carbon. I run 4x the amount of carbon thats typically suggested for a reef my size solely to cut down on allelopathy from being a mixed reef. Growth rate was pretty slow before I ran 1lb of carbon, but after two months of doing that my corals have exploded.
I take it you don't subscribe to the view that carbon microparticles play a role in bleaching then?
are you running active or passive? I usually have a sock of carbon sitting in my sump, but I'm not running water through it.
>I take it you don't subscribe to the view that carbon microparticles play a role in bleaching then?
No not really. I just use high quality carbon and wash it thoroughly. I keep it in a sock in my sump, but the water does have to pass directly through the carbon.
It may be worth noting that you shouldn't take any advice from me as far as maintaining a reef goes. I've never once seen someone operate a reef the way I do mine, and while I've haven't a single casualty (not including deaths from aggressive hitchhikers, which I've had two of those deaths, but I don't really count them because that's pretty well beyond my control) in the 8 months I've run this mixed reef, I'm afraid if someone tried to do it the way I do they would crash and burn quickly. That being said, my growth rates are off the charts, and everything is perfectly happy and healthy, and most importantly, I haven't killed any precious coral.
hehe, no. I wouldn't ever dare put a fish from petco into my reef. I'm a big subscriber to the concept of the disease triangle though, and believe that's partly why I'm so succesful (thus far), and have had no problem adding diseased animals in the past and healing them, but I don't want that water anywhere near my tank.
Thanks a lot for the help man. I really appreciate the effort you took to be so detailed.
Anyone here know where I can get some sugar kelp for a cold water aquarium? Can't find anyone who sells live kelp of any kind, but I keep seeing blogs and stuff of people who have some.
Also rare macro algae sites welcome.
I don't usually take advice from anyone, but I'm always interested in how people do stuff.
I can't remember if I've asked you before... I think I have. Did I ask if you were supplementing calcium?
seems like you said just reef supplements and water changes?
Yo, I tried familia.
If you check on the planted tank (the forum), they have a useful thread on what fixtures produce what amount of PAR, and more detailed explanations of the concepts.
I don't add and supplements whatsoever. What I do is I have my DIY skimmer set to wetskim about a quarter gallon of water a day, and so I just replace the skimmer water with brand new fresh saltwater. I guess you could call it supplementing, but I'm supplementing literally every mineral that's found in NSW. The only supplementing I'd consider would be KALK, but even that I'm leery about. I don't even own a single test kit, not for nitrates, not for calcium. Nothing. I'm very in tune with my reef though, and can diagnose an issue just by looking at it. That's basically why I don't think other people should try to reef the way I do it. If your not in tune with your environment and solely rely on test kits to tell you what's happening, you really have very little basic knowledge of your ecosystem (not that I'm saying this about you at all, by no means am I calling you unknowledgable). If I had to pick someone that I style my maintenance after, it would be Mr. Tyree himself.
Probably 2/3s of the time I don't even run my skimmer, I only run it whenever I get a layer of protein buildup on the surface of the water. I rely a lot on the various sponges I keep in my tank. I have one large sponge that's about baseball sized, and 4 other species of sponges scattered throughout the tank. I probably have several hundred sponges in the 30g tank. Which is also something that many reefers will tell you NOT to do, because they believe that sponges will eat everything in the water column to the point of starvation, and then die, leaving some noxious poison (supposedly). I also don't subscribe to that. Maybe some sponges are highly toxic, but I don't think it's common, and like all other toxins in my tank, I always have my 1lb bag of carbon to back me up if anything goes wrong.
holistic reefkeeping, I like it.
I think I'd be checking salinity all the time to make sure I wasn't covering up evaporation with the stuff I was changing via skimmer.
No, I don't test parameters, but as I said I also don't really keep reefs. If there happens to be corals on my rocks so be it, and if I see an LPS I really like I might buy it, but I mostly raise fish.
yeah, I've never had a problem with sponges.
I didn't even realize I had them for a few years until they started getting so big they couldn't hide under the rocks anymore.
they're nice for getting rid of silica and they filter pretty well. Any healthy tank should have them.
I check salinity about every other day. I know my tank evaps only about a cup of water a day, so I just add that cup of water along with my replacement saltwater for the day, and I'm good. I actually don't even have a refractometer either. I only have a crappy hydrometer that always reads .002 to high. As you can tell, I'm extremely high tech ;). I do have 165w LEDs over my reef though, but I do think I had better growth with my 10k 150w halide, but the color is much better under the LED, and I get away from having to have a fan blow over the top of my water to keep the temp down. When I ran halides every day i would evap as much as a half gallon a day
Every good reef should have sponges. Most of the time, you can't even see them like you said. I broke open a piece of liverock one time to remove some aiptasia (tank is now aiptasia free, although it was never an epidemic, i had 3 polyps show up, and I entombed one in super glue and removed the rock the other two were sitting on) But when i cracked open the rock it was just filled with cavities that had many many featherdusters, sponges, and other benthic filter feeders. I believe strongly in filter feeding, and algae growth being crucial to the stability and health of a reef. As well as biodiversity. My latest species count went up to 76 individuals species living in my 30g tank, with only roughly half of those being coral based. That is part of the reason why I feel in love with reefkeeping. If you told me a year ago that you can keep that many species in a 30g tank, I probably would've gone off on myself for being a terrible owner, and over populating, and having such a huge bioload. But if you keep everything in proper balance (which really means letting it balance itself, because humans suck at trying to balance an ecosystem) and understand how the ocean naturally deals with ammonia & phosphates, it's incredibly rewarding. I find a new species about every week, even after 8 months of operation. Whether it's a new coral that mysteriously appeared, a new species of snail (i have over 10 species at last count) a new featherduster, or whatever, it's fascinating to watch this life unfold in my fucking bedroom.
Bamping with a picture of one of my stomatella's, the newest species of snail to be found it my tank. He's on the bottom left corner of that brain coral. Their like half slug half snail. They have a tiny shell on their back that they can't retreat into, so its basically useless.
You have inspired me to reveal my reef to you.
I have three images. Here is my P. bipinnata, the only coral in the tank.
Wow, these are some big images.
My clown. Nothing unusual here.
And for that one coldwater anon, some graciliaria hayi, a nice little red algae.
I apologize for my bigness.
I got this gorg in the beginning of January, and I had some strange water issue so it is just now displaying that PE, so no growth yet, it is almost touching the glass as it is, so I'm not desperate for it to get any bigger. Now I ain't trying to shill, but this is where I got all that stuff from save the fish, obviously. The only reason I'm linking this is because he seems to measure order proportions in pints, I filled my entire Innovative marine 38 with one rather stringent order of algae.
Thats an awesome site! I may have to order some gorgs from them in the meantime before I start a macro tank. A macro tank sure would be fun, and I'm sure it's a little less maintenance than your standard FOWLR. I've had corals do that before in the past too, I had an SPS that sat with the tiniest little polyps for like 3 months, and I thought that that was just how it looks, fast forward another 3 months, and it's turned a neon green color, as well as having so much PE that I can't even see the skeleton most of the time now.
this >>2053333 poster realizing I posted in the wrong thread
To go off of my post in the other thread and actually suggest fish *types* instead of species: microrasboras (Boraras spp., Espeis not being a "micro," but small enough for a 10 gallon), blue eye fish (Pseudomugil spp.), any of the 3 small cory species (pygmaeus, habrosus, or hastatus), white cloud/Vietnamese white clouds, or khuli loaches (those last two are specific, but also extremely common).
Other species suggestion I have are marbled hatchetfish, or threadfin rainbowfish, if you can find them.
Like an idiot I posted this to the last thread after this was made
I'm new to CO2 other than the liquid CO2 booster I use
What does this come with and what else does it need? A CO2 canister?
Does it hook up directly to my external filter?
have cory already and Khulis will probably fuck up my plants.
any specific reasons for these fish? looking mostly for interesting habits or tendencies. I have fish to watch them interact with each other and the environment, if that makes any sense. Im thinking guppies at this point since they're pretty cool. how are platys?
yeah, that's just the device for mixing CO2 with your water. So it needs all the rest of the system - CO2 canister, valves, plumbing.
it looks like it should plumb directly into your filter. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong here, but presumably you'd want it plumbed after your filter, on your filter effluent.
Some but I feel they would be very miserable unless ample swimming area and very small so they can at least swim upwards. So basically nano fish. Fish that max out at 1 inch otherwise don't own any fish.
i recently set up a 350 litre for my pleco. its still growing in so he's not moved across yet but im thinking what else I can put in there with him.
He's probably fully grown at about 16 inches as I've had him 10 years or so. because of his size and wanting to give him a bit of space to turn it's not going to be a super densely planted tank. I've got driftwood and some plants and rocks and stuff.
I was thinking a shoal of tiger barbs would be quite nice as they are active and wont be stressed by not having too much cover. I could go with angels also.
What would you put in there with my pleco? I want to get a balance between attractive fish and activity as the tanks in quite a prominent place in my house
Bought a ghost knife the other day and he's made his home behind the filter. He seems to stay behind there all day and doesn't come out during feeding time. He might be coming out to graze at night, but I'm not sure. Is there a way I can make him come out during feeding to make sure he's eating? I've watched them all for a few days and I don't think any of my other fish would be bullying him
In a 90G you can do pretty much anything you want. Tiger barbs are fun, but they're also really common. What's your water like? I'd try to go with some peaceful/semi-aggressive cichlids. Herotilapia multispinosa are very pretty and undemanding.
I've found these to be neat. The past week with him has been great. Though they cost a good amount of money.
Do you have to keep trimming dwarf sag for it to carpet?
I ordered some dwarf sag from one vender and what I received were very long (10cm) almost val like plants.
These have not spread out in my aquarium at all but have been growing.
I ordered some dwarf sag from another vender and got a large section of turf that were impossible to seperate by hand as the plants were all rooted very thickly together. They were about 3cm high.
So this is what I got in the first instance.
I got 10 seperate plants like this.
This is what I got in the second instance.
The second instance is how I expect dwarf sag to look like.
Get angels. They're just so happy in tanks that large. My angels were practically like dogs. If I got distracted talking to someone while I was feeding, they'd spit water at me. They since outgrew they're 55g tank, and are now living happily in a 2000g greenhouse pond
That's what I would do, I have a weakness for puffers. Morays are fun, but reclusive, so you won't see him much, but the puffer will always be checking out what's going in the room the tanks in. Would definitely go for the largest possible tank if you wanna do eel/puffer, due to how quickly those to will fuck up your water
will look into it. desu i don't give 2 shits if i dont see him, im tempted to make a rocky cave as im keen to keep the tank looking "natural"
yeah this was my thinking. water's stable but naturally really quite hard due to my location. desu i can't really be bothered with discus though they would be fun one day
Might go with cichlids, I've never been that fond of the rocky look of most cichlid tanks so im trying to keep it as planted as the pleco will tolerate
does sound fun, i've actually not kept angels since I was a kid and tried to keep them in a community tank. They never caused any problems but weren't that happy. Would be fun to give them the space and tank they would like. My only worry is that they would prefer more densely planted than I'm going to have
Give it time, and co2, and toss in an iron nail if you can. It grows better with some iron. It also does well with a pinch of seasalt. It stays shorter with more light and co2. It grows slow until it is in a connected clump. It makes runners when it's cramped. You can get faster growth with a pot that has bubbles going through it, but that works for any plant usually.
The first type is the low light, the second is just under more ideal conditions. But the first and second are the same species, and habit, just one had less light and nutrient.
Oh shit, guys
I think my heater caught ich!
>that stupid fucking snail...
If you already have cories, are you sure you have room for another schooling fish?
Khuli loaches are fine with plants unless their really easy to knock out of the substrate. They're fun to watch noodle around the tank and you can sometimes find them coiled up together in a cute little pile.
Microrasboras are kind of slightly more interesting tetras. They're a bit more active and less common. Espeis I just really like the look of.
Pseudomugil spp, marbled hatchetfish, and threadfin rainbowfish have a really unique look to them, in addition to being beautiful. If you get threadfins, you can watch the males "flash" their dorsal fins at rival males and potential mates, which looks both cool and really funny.
White clouds are really active and fun to watch zoom around the tank.
If you don't actually want a schooling fish and just want something that's interesting to watch, guppies/platies/Endlers are all good choices. Depending on what else you have, sparkling gourami are some of my favorite fish. They'll find something interesting in the dirt and point their body at it vertically to get a better look, them chow down. They also "croak" (it's more like a clicking noise) when they're content.
Just got a 3.7 gallon tank with a small pump/filter/heater and I've fitted it with gravel and some live plants after letting it circulate for 2 days. I'm interested in some non-fish animals and was thinking of snails and shrimp or snails and a larger crayfish. The tank is freshwater btw.
Anyone have experience with these pets? Any other neat, low maintenance animal suggestions would be cool too.
I grew up with multiple 50-100gallon tanks that my parents kept, so I'm not completely foreign to the care.
Exactly the same, it's like a lovely escape as well as being fascinating.
I like how stupid they are sometimes also. For example I had a platy spawning in my community tank and left them to it, one is still alive and is a semi adult, and now spends his time displaying to and courting a young female ram.
the absolute madman
I'd try and find like 3-5 berried females. Berried means they are carrying fertilized eggs. Basically youll have like 100+ adult shrimp in 3 months if you do that. Otherwise, get like 5 females and 2-3 males. Much more expensive that way though
I'm actually glad i stumbled on this thread.
I have a ten gallon tank that will become available soon, since I'm moving my leopard gecko to a 20 long after i finish the foam rock wall (of which i'll have enough foam and cement to make another smaller background and terrain for the 10). I was thinking of getting Amano or Cherry shrimp and maybe some Corys because I hear they cohab well as long as the shrimp have their hiding places. any thoughts on this or better shrimp/fish combos?
Cories go with everything, but you'll want at least five of the same species to make sure they're happy. They're tiny little friendly tanks that will outlive almost anything. By the way, "Green", "Copper" and "Albino" are all actually the same species. All other cories are actually different species even if they look similar (ex: peppered vs spotted).
If you don't want cories, small schooling fish like white cloud minnows (not the rosy ones!) or neon tetras are also fine. One male betta fish or three female bettas is also a pretty safe bet around shrimp though you'll have to keep an eye on the females as they will squabble at first until they decide on a pecking order and all bettas do get sick easily requiring a heated tank and nice, clean water.
Regular crayfish get way too big. A solo or pair of dwarf crays would be okay, and may or may not leave shrimp/snails alone.
Zebra danios, white cloud mountain minnows, platies, Endlers.
If you're going to do cories with shrimp I'd suggest getting about ten of one of the three small species (habrosus, hastatus, pygmaeus). Amano shrimp are easier to care for and keep healthy than Neocaridina shrimp (like cherries) ime, but amanos don't breed in freshwater and don't have the nice colors. Amanos like to clean your hand when you put it in the tank, and the females get absolutely massive compared to Neos, which is pretty sweet. Amano shrimp are also dicks and bullies. I love it.
So I put Grim & Grom into my tank on the 1st of this month and the water was clear like the pictured showed. Now on the 3rd the water has turned to the shade of tea like the below picture shows.
My fish shop said that it's supposed to happen because that's the condition the gold green corys like and because I'm establishing the bacterial environment for them. They said the faint smell will go away once everything is in order.
So as much as I want to trust the 20 year old kid with gauged earnings and an iguana on his shoulder eating something out of the untrimmed neckbeard of reassurance, I come to you 4chan.
Is everything ok for my little guys?
Not even one should ever be in a 5 gallon. 20 gallon long minimum. So no one knows what they're talking about Jesus Christ bruh. If your tank isn't cycled it's going through the process. Do a small water change everyday. I have 6 emerald cory in my 30 gallon and they're cooler in a school.
If you want your red cherry shrimp to breed like crazy and have a massive colony of 300+ shrimp in that ten gallon, then having almost any type of fish is absolutely not acceptable. The only fish that you can truly safely keep without harming freshly hatched shrimplets are Oto's. Because Oto's kick fuckin ass. But literally every other fish you can think of that goes in a 10 gallon will eat RCS shrimplets. I have literally watched my school of 6 pygmy cories devour all the shrimplets from 5 berried females. I had two shrimplets survive by the time i removed the cories. Granted the tank wasnt heavily planted, but it definitely had ample vegetation. If teeny tiny pygmy cories will eat baby RCS, everything will.
I love to get home from a long day at the greenhouse, get really stoned, and let my cleaner shrimp clean the dirt out of my fingernails for me. After multiple seasons of doing this for a straight 30 minutes, I've decided that the shrimp must use some type of anesthetic, because gradually my entire hand will get very numb and tingly, starting from my finger. Cleaner shrimp rock.
Can anyone help me sex my rams? 1, 2, and 3 are in quarantine right now. 4 is in my main tank.
I thought 1, 2, and 3 were all female, but now I'm doubting it. 3 usually hides in the back. When he/she comes out to eat, 2 usually chases it around until it goes to the back of the tank again.
When a tank is first set up, it goes through a cycling process where beneficial nitrifying bacteria grow inside the filter and gravel. It can take anywhere from 4 to 8 weeks, left to its own devices. During that time, ammonia and nitrite levels are going to rise, which could be causing the cloudiness and odor. They'll go away on their own given enough time, but they can build up to toxic levels extremely quickly, especially in a 5 gallon tank.
For the record, your fish shop is full of baloney.
If a tank is too small for a proper school, it's too small for a schooling fish, period.
In my opinion your best course of action at this point would be to return the cories until you get the 20 gallon tank and get it set up.
Hey guys I'm cycling a new aquarium I bought secondhand last night. I got the whole thing (25 gal tank, heater, 2 filters, stand and gravel for $70, Australian). Cleaned it, darted it and planted it, threw my remaining 6 minnows from my shrimp tank in to cycle it, I need to get a Crapton more plants for me to be happy with it, but how is it looking for now?
This is the stock list, I will substitute any of those except the embers and the otos for celestial pearl danios if I can find somewhere in Melbourne that stocks them.
my 7.5 reef.
Well, some of it.
Return the fish.
Buy a big filter. No carbon. Stick filter floss inserts into filter, let it run on an empty tank for a few weeks.
Throw fish food into take every 1-2 days.
In 6 weeks take your water to be tested. 0 ammonia 0 nitrite = safe for fish.
Yeah I'm getting my LED's and driftwood as well as the rest of the plants on Saturday. My problem with big stuff is that I'm putting my shrimp in there too so I don't want them eaten, mostly to make room for a betta in the shrimp tank. And yeah the tank is what you said.
Ah, okay. The rummynose would likely pose a problem with the shrimp. I think you should still stick with one or two schools, given the smaller tank footprint, and simply make the schools larger. Eg. 15 white clouds, 15 CPDs. The fish seem happier that way.
Cool ill drop the rummies. And possibly the minnows for some Celestial Peral danios (as I said they are rare here). So with the rummies, being the largest fish, dropped I can afford to built 2 schools to 15 fish, the endlers don't school anyway so is 15 neons and 15 embers sounding good?
Are German blue rams really harder to take care of than Bolivian rams?
My lfs has both, and I was considering getting a pair of either one or the other (not necissarily breeding) for my 30 gallon.
I've read that GBRs can't handle hard water, but I've seen where people have had it work too...
I don't have much in my tank right now, just 2 meme tetras, 2 cory cats and a swordtail. Ideally, I would like to add in a couple Mexican dwarf crayfish as well as get my numbers back up on tetras and cories.
GBR get sick much more easily in harder water from what I've seen. If your tap is normally 7.0 or under I doubt you'll have many problems with them. Note that just getting a male and female won't necessarily guarantee that they'll pair off.
I'd focus on building your schools as a first priority.
Do you think a Nano Aquarium is fun? I want a aquarium but keep it as cheap as possible (student).
Sounds good for stocking. I think I'd go nuts resisting getting a "centerpiece," haha. Maybe if you get a really tight lid for the tank you can get a bamboo shrimp.
I thought the same at first, but they're a very different species. Get about 3x the size and much more aggressive, though still not as aggressive as many other cichlids.
Anything 10 gallons or under if going to cost close to the same to start up and run (if you're in the US, at least). Within $20-30, at least.
Nanos are cool, though. They have a certain appeal of their own. Here's my 1.8 gallon shrimp tank.
What fish should I put in my tank? preferably a schooling one
36 gallon, I have 3 angelfish and a raphael cat. I have some glass cats but I hate them and wanna give them to my lfs and get some kind of school instead
This looks really nice. What is that moss and the floating plants?
Moss is marimo, torn up and tied to slate for weight. The floating plants are Salvinia minima. There's also a section behind the vertical skate that's planted with ribbon dracaena that you can't see in that picture.
You should get bleeding heart tetras. Not sure if they'll get big enough to avoid being eaten by the catfish, though.
>Tank keeps getting 1 degree hotter unless I turn it up to 24
I set it to 22 its 23 when I come home
I set it to 22.5 it's 23.5 when I come home
I set it to 23 it's 24
Only when I set it to 24 it remains at 24. But 24 is too hot for crystals.
So either I keep it at 24 which is too hot for crystals or i have a 1 degree swing between day and night which is unsuitable for crystals...
Are Cryptocoryne wendtii always really slow growing? My tank is full of them and I have seen almost no changes in them in the last three months. Currently using cool daylight CFL, 50 watts per gallon.
Some reflectors around the light source pointed mostly towards the center of the tank. Oddly, the cryptis around the corners (little reflected light) seem to be growing faster than the rest. The name is appropriate: these plants are cryptic and weird.
is Co2 safe for use around fish? Wouldn't it cause an algae explosion? Not sure on this stuff as I've never used it before.
I would try to raise the height of your fixture to help more evenly distribute the light, as well as lessen it's intensity a little bit. Co2 can be harmful to inhabitants when the light isnt running, because because it can drop you Ph really hard, but that only really happens if your using injection Co2. I use a passive Co2 system. It's dead simple. I basically use a soda bottle as an airtight 'bell' to capture all the Co2 produced by a milk gallon below my tank thats fermenting sugar water, making Co2. It works very well in my experience, and you dont really have to worry about oversaturating the water with this method, as long as the surface area being exposed to co2 isn't MASSIVE (like over 20% of your tanks surface area), you should be able to pull it off with no problems. All it will do is make you plants be able to absorb more energy from the intense lighting you have. I guarantee you will see growth improvement, but you probably still won't get pearling, for that you need the perfect concentration of light/co2, and with your intense light itll take a lot.
My whole Passive Co2 system cost me all of 8 dollars for airline tubing, and yeast. Everything else is shit you have around your house.
I get about 2 large bubbles out of the airline every second. But it all gets collected in the bell, which basically is filled with pure co2, and from there, i force water to pass through the pure Co2 area, gas exchange happens, and the resulting water is enriched with co2
It might be kinda hard to see whats going on in that picture. Basically theres just the top to a soda bottle as the bell, and a plug i shoved i there to keep the bell below the waterline. Didn't permanently affix it yet because i'm not sure if i want a larger bell or not.
This is the Co2 setup I've run on all of my planted tanks over the years after I used injection Co2 once and found it to be to expensive. Running passive co2 barely costs anything, and it's still fairly effective. My plants in that tank are pearling right now.
Top down view of my tank. It's an all in one saltwater tank, so it is setup with and overflow area, and a 'sump' section. I have the Co2 under the blue lid, which is where the overflow is,so the water comes crashing down, and in it's turbulence, gets co2 mixed in.
I have to refill the 1 gallon jug with sugar water about every 2 weeks, 3 cups of sugar.
Thats pretty cool. But I usually am actually using the co2 generated from beer that I'm brewing. Usually when I make a 5 gallon batch of beer I'll set aside 1 gallon of it to fuck around with and secondary ferment with extra ingredients, and I just use that Co2 :) Waste not, want not.
Glass half full of my homebrewed Dunkelweizen :). You could say i like DIY stuff...
This guy? It's some type of aquatic elephant ear, that i took a cutting off of from my university botany greenhouse's pond. Very likely that you mother has one, their commonly grown in greenhouses for ornamental pots.
My mom's original plant has split off into so many new roots that we have two separate pots with multiple bulbs in them. Does yours have bulbs?
Also, if I do get a fish tank soon, would I be able to successfully transfer one or two of my mom's plants to the tank? Or would they melt/die off from being grown in a pot and air their whole lives?
They may not be the aquatic variety, but that's not for sure. I know you can grow water hyacinth in containers easily just as you can grow them in water, so it may be true for the elephant ears to. You'll just have to see. Mine started as a little tuber/runner from a much much larger mother plant. It will have to be a short tank though. Mine was just barely able to breach the surface in time. They aren't able to live underwater, and need to build up energy to reach higher and higher with every shoot. So if it's a tall tank, it will probably melt and die before the leaves are able to breach the surface, and be dry.
Your rooms messy as fuck.
Anyways........ My reef tank
Here's mine I was working on today.
you can see it needs a bit of repair, so I was inside it cleaning out old sand and fish shit.
Alright guys it's me again with the 27 gal cycling tank. I'm in the club that looks after the animals here at school. Im sorta the fish guy by default because I have tanks at home and read a fuckton on tanks and fish (I get way too over eager with shit when I get into something new). We had a 80 gal with an Oscar a jack Dempsey and a Pleco. Over the summer holidays both the Oscar and the Dempsey dies, leaving us with a bare 90. The Pleco has since been moved and I've been allocated to reshape the tank. I've been given $500 AUS to do it. I was thinking of making an Amazon biotope. Here is my idea.
Replace the 5(!) inch thick gravel later with sand with a layer of ph lowering substrate below. Get a fuck ton of Amazon swords and a big driftwood piece with some other plants. The stock with 3 koi Angels, 2 bristlenose Plecos, 8 corys, 10 marbled hatchets and 8-10 emperor tetras. Then build a secure lid for the hatchets. How does that sound good?
Keep in mind I'm going Angels over discus because it's a school tank so they need to be hardy enough to survive after I leave.
Replacing it would cost a couple thousand dollars and take months of work pulling the tank apart and rebuilding it.
I can patch over it for a couple hundred dollars and a couple days work.
yeah, I'm going to do a flexible patch.
I'm thinking about 1/2" thick silicone in three layers with cloth in between two layers. That way it's flexible enough to bend if the tank shatters more but strong enough not to rip.
I don't think the bottom will break more though. That happened because of a leak at the center hole. I'm not going to let that happen again.
>tfw fellow anon has a fishtank large enough to hold an orgy within.
>tfw currently too poor to afford a tank.
I hope the patch works and you can buy a shit ton of cool fish for it.
You'll continue posting pics, right?
Posting pick of my tank.
Home to 3 long finned zebra danios.
One male 2 girls.
Use to have many more fish like carfish but they kept trapping themselves in the area between the filter and custom background and killing themselves Getting stuck. Had Amano shrimp in here for a while but they kept escaping and dying. Did have a rubber lip Pleco but he passed away recently and I'm not sure how it why. Use to have 7 danios in here but some kept trying to jump into the filter and they would miss and jump out if the tank. Lotta casualties.
Yeah, I post as it moves along. I've got a couple days of boring prep work next. Scraping off extra silicone on the seals and then some serious cleaning before I can start with the glue.
Glass is remarkably strong.
Also it doesn't bend much. And it's waterproof.
so all around it's a pretty good thing to make the bottom out of. Mine just failed because the stand got wet and warped upwards in the middle. If I'd had the good sense to waterproof the top of the stand I wouldn't have had this problem.
How long with it take for a population of mixed fancy guppies to start showing wild type patterns and shorter fins?
glass and acrylic expand and contract at different rates, so for a tank that big you can't mix the two.
I probably should've made the top sheet of the stand out of plastic or metal or something though.
Yeah, mine are shooting off runners after 3 months in dirt/osmocote with daily doses of Excel and a 3w desk lamp, no fish, just snails. The Crypt Spiralis is 1.5x the size of the tank and the (i think) Undulata (reddish purple, tall stems, crinkle edges) is growing a new leaf after a month of shitty planting on my behalf, I think im just gonna call this nano experiment the Crypt Keeper. Are there anymore common crypts/anubias etc that would do good in a low light dirt tank? Im trying to get a hold of Anubias Nana but I have no hardscape to lash it to atm, Also, would a CPO crayfish snippy up crypts or would I just have to settle for some neo's that may or not make it.
yeah, tempered is standard.
my glass guy couldn't get a sheet of tempered that size and drilled for the overflow though. Which is actually kinda lucky since if the bottom was tempered it would've completely shattered instead of just making a couple cracks.
Amazon Swords are really nice for cheap filler, but allegedly their roots go fucking batshit in non dirt/memesoil tanks. I osmo mine without pill caps every 3-5 months and they do great even in a "nano" tank so be careful to space them well apart and deal with their nutritional needs as the time allows.
oh bro, my bad, the are pygmy cories, i said piggy, i mean, they are lil piggies, but they are pygmaus cories. they zip zip zoom all over and rest on my driftwood, amazon leaves, anubias leaves, they are my little jungle cats.
Everyone post your cories. Here's a few of my emerald ones.
>LFS where my parents live 3 hours from me have both healthy looking Dwarf Gouramis and Golden Honey Dwarfs (Colisa chuna)
>Too torn between buying a single Dwarf or a 1M:2F trio of Honeys
I'm gonna go back to buy tomorrow before I drive home. I heards lots of stories about how Dwarves make a mess of planted tanks, are assholes to other inhabitants, and are more prone to health issues than Honeys. But they are slightly bigger and look way more inquisitive than the shoal of Honeys cowering under plants and rocks. I'm sure the Honeys would cozy up over time, but I'm worried about possible aggression issues too.
My main tank has a bunch of RCS and Amanos, and I'm certain both fishes will gobble up shrimplets. But are Dqarves more likely to harass adukts too?
Not all zoa's have em so don't worry too much its just that it's very hard to tell the poisonous ones from the benign ones. It's more of an issue if you aerosolize them. In the extreme case actually right here my D.C based reef club. A guy was trying to get rid of a ton of zoas on a rock and decided to boil the rock and kill off the zoas. Obviously it got in the air and he got very sick.
That feel when you take care of massive SW/reef tanks for a living.
once you reach the 10k gallon mark your dealing with a swimming pool more or less.
The only way to find out if they contain palytoxin is to either see a reaction in your tank when they get pissed off, or finding out personally that it's making you sick. I suppose you could get lab tested, but I'm not paying for that shit. It's much safer assuming they all contain plenty of palytoxin to kill you.
That's like finding a gun on the ground and not checking whether it's loaded or not, and putting it to your temple.
And I would hate doing that for a living. The maintenance crew at my LFS cycles very frequently. Taking care of my tanks is enough
Just don't stress to much about it, you have a greater chance of getting electrocutued/fire from a reef tank then getting poisoned by it.
The skimmer for this tank is about the size of large industrial water heater and has like a 300+ gallon sump/surge tank alone. That being said it actually easy as fuck to maintain.
Maybe be so, but the effect of not respecting palytoxin can be lethal. I know a lady who was fragging zoas, went to sleep, rubbed her eye, and the palytoxin destroyed her cornea. She has a glass eye now. I know another LFS employee who has a scar from where she had a cut on her hand, reached into a tank to grab a fish for a customer and her hand brushed the Palys that were on the sidewall, Her entire hand swelled up, and has left a permanent mark. It's not something to take lightly or right off as unimportant.
My bumblebee platy looks about ready to pop guys.
Sorry for blur
Here's my pile of laundr- I mean, tank...
Anybody on here have a snapping turtle? I've never had an aquatic aquarium before, only ever had reptiles, but snappers (especially alligator snappers) seem pretty easy for a first-time aquatic aquarium, since they don't move much and the alligators don't even need to leave the water all the way.
live in northeast usa, have storm drain runoff in back yard, also have a spring or two , as well as a small creek that sometimes dries up , what native fishes would survive in possibly low oxygen ponds/brook im going to difg out the brook, and connect it to the storm drain runoff, and the springs into this small pond, it prbably wont ever get deeper than 3 ft, and the majority of it will probably be much shallower , im thinking maybe bullhead, or channel catfish, are there any other species that may work well? pls repy
not terribly big, like i said im digging it by hand msybe the side of a queen or king size bed? ( maybe 8 ft by 10 ft? smaller maybe? ) plus a section of the brook im going to deepen out, and i have a smaller koi pond thats deepest is 32 inches and its only ever had one fish kill in the past 10-15 years, and that was an unusually cold winter im not going to put anything big in it but would like some variety , will post pictures nexgt time i go digging by hand, its maybe only 8 inches deep right now but i have the outline done, and if it woud quit snowing and it wrerent such thick mud i would make it bigger its also really hard to get a guestimation on gallons per hours since different sources of water and two of the three vary depending on the weather
its just going to shallow out, i may board the exit so the pond fills to a certain level then spills over the board just a bit, im not expecting the fish to try to escape and even if they do they will just end up a t a deeper down pool , its not like im going to be keeping exotics there just native shit that when it gets eaten by coons i can replace the next day
I can try that pretty easily.
What kind of filtration/circulation are you using? I'm using a waterfall HOB filter that gives a fairly steady flow. No bubbles. Would that be enough to circulate the Co2?
Yeah, I'm starting to think it's just that the crypts aren't happy about the lighting to Co2 ratio as the dimmest areas have better growth even if it's still not a ton.
>im going to be keeping exotics there just native shit
God bless you, anon. Nobody keeps native anything anymore (plants or animals) so it's always wonderful to see someone choosing to keep native wildlife. It looks nice and it's cheaper, easier and better for mother nature overall.
Pic related: a local native fish: Lepomis marginatus the "dollar sunfish".
i dont think i could keep anything exotic anyways since its a pond/ brook not a tank and chance of escape i may see if i can get my hands on some brookies to put in if i get it deep enough and get enough gallons per min through it
Some people try to keep non-native fish in ponds/brooks anyway. Goldfish and carp are the worst offenders and some of the nastiest destroyers. The Mississippi is over-run with invasive carp because people tried to keep non-native species in ponds/brooks. Even worse, they're making it into the great lakes. I'm just glad to see you have the sense to not even try.
Have fun with that pond/brook! Even if you can't do a brook it's sure to be awesome.
This spring I'm digging pond. Maybe 10-15feet by 10-15feet by probably 7-8 feet deep. I gotta figure out how to dig some steps and put in a viewing panel. What would be the best way to do this? Otherwise I'll probably hire someone.
tfw i technically released hundreds of thousands of non native fish into the rivers, lakes of my state
I've noticed that, as counter intuitive as it seems, when it comes to aquarium/fishkeeping the larger the tank, the over all easier it is to maintain.
You may have to pay a boat load out the ass setting it all up, but once it is fully established it will save you potentially hundreds if not thousands of dollars down the years.
i work for a fish hatchery nd we release hundreds of thousands of brown and rainbow trout that arent TECHNICALLY native in the state im from, now they have been being stocked since the beginning of forever here
You just want there to be good water movement around the bell that the Co2 is contained in. So yes, at the base of your HOB filter would probably be a good spot. If you really want to be good, you can get a powerhead and angle it to push water right at the bell. That's what I do if space allows.
Also people that pay tens of thousands of dollars for that kind of tank are going to drop the coin to automate it as much as possible. You can run most of those systems from your smartphone.
Depends on a lot of factors including the type of soil, the slope in and out of the pond, your rainfall and more. You probably should hire help if you want to do anything really complex.
I had a dwarf gourami in a 40 breeder with Amano shrimp, but he was already on his last leg by the time I got him (previous owner's tank exploded). I imagine they'd be more likely to harass adult shrimp when in good health.
Turns out under all the muck it's a fluval, and it works too. I'm gonna disinfect it buy running it to filter in a bucket of water vinegar mix
Just got a betta /aq/. This is the fish I've been looking for in this tank
>fucking with my angry bastard ADF's
>head bumping my RCS and then leaving them alone
>already recognizes me and tries to follow my finger around
So happy I [spoiler]purchased[/spoiler] him from [spoiler]L F S [/spoiler]
I have a dwarf, here are my anecdotes:
>make a mess of planted tanks
Nah. He does sometimes nip at *some* plants, but never enough to really do damage. He's probably just looking for plant matter to make bubble nests. Keep in mind these guys prefer floating plants, and they'll grab them and move them around to make bubble nests.
>are assholes to other inhabitants
A little bit. He doesn't hurt them but he can be kind of a territorial dick, sometimes chasing off my neon tetra in a "GTFO of here" fashion. I feel like he's worse when building bubble nests. I do feel like he is...kind of dick overall, just the way he carries himself, he likes being in charge of the rest of the tank. But he's never physically attacked anyone, just shooed them away.
He did fight with the other male dwarf gourami I had. Once it got past simple chasing behaviors, I took the other one back. (I wanted to take him back, because he was the biggest asshole, but he was also harder to catch.)
>But are Dwarves more likely to harass adukts too?
Haven't had this problem in my planted 20 gallon. Or, I've never visibly seen him make an attack on an RCS. I did catch him once with half of a ghost shrimp sticking out of his mouth, but I suspect the ghost shrimp was already dead. Even the tiny RCS, he never really bothers them for some reason. Keep in mind that RCS are pretty good at escaping danger, as well as finding cover. Whatever the case, my RCS population is booming.