I'm thinking of getting a pet rat, what are some tips on owning one, and what should I name it, shitpost or cannabis?
Also, not OP but still interested on a pet rat. I was thinking on getting one and then, after it bonded with me, getting it a partner. Isn't it a lot more difficult for a rat to bond with you when it has a partner than when it is alone? I've never owned a rat, although I've had guinea pigs, hamsters and gerbils. I know rats are more social, but I'm afraid of getting a pair and end up being more interested in one another than on bonding with me. What do I do? Any tips? Also, I'm from méxico and there is no such thing as pet rat breeders, so I would have to get them from a pet store. I know it is not the most ideal thing to do, but it's vthe only way possible.
Rats are not parrots. They don't see you as their breeding pair so they have no problem bonding with you even if you keep 3 or more. In fact a single rat is more shy. In a pair they encourage each other.
No. Rats are really social, and making them feel at ease by not isolating it will help you bond better.
I once adopted a litter of five rats at once and they were the friendliest group of animals I've ever had.
If you go to a pet store, try to find one selling fancy rats rather than feeder rats. Feeders can be good pets, but the fancies are more likely to be at least a little socialized to make things a bit easier.
What is the difference between fancy rats and feeder rats? Every pet store here has only one type of rats (which are usually sold as food). Rats are not really seen as pets in Mexico. I was thinking maybe on buying two young ones? Would that make things a bit easier?
Just got my first rats! They are so cute and I'm so excited to hang with them. They are both sleeping together (so cute) right now. Any tips for the first week or so?
One is very inquisitive and has been checking my hand and I've been giving her treats. The other is still very scared and still hiding. I'm a bit worried. She was making weird noises and I couldn't tell if it was from her mouth or if she was just gnawing on something. How long does it take for rats to get use to their new home? When/how would I know something is wrong? If/when she does start exploring is there anything I can do to encourage her and make her feel less scared?
Hey /an/ I had a feeling that my two rats were sick (sneezing, slightly audible breathing, wet nose) so I called the vet and set up an appointment for Thursday. Is there anything I can do to make them feel a little better before they actually go to the vet? They don't seem too sick, they're still lively, but I want to ease any problems.
If they're having issues breathing then you can use a humidifier near the cahe. If you don't have one you can take them in a closed bathroom with steam from a hot shower for 5-15 minutes.
Nothing really, just feeders were bred and raised to be food, and fancy rats are meant to be pets.
Since you're likely to get feeders that haven't been handled much, if at all, definitely try to get young ones because you're going to have to hand tame them yourself. Plus, rats don't live all that long, so getting as young as possible as long as they are 6 weeks+ is best anyways.
The only difference between a feeder and pet rat in many stores is the colour of their coat. If you get them from a breeder it's usually a guarantee that they have been treated well and have gotten used to being handled by humans.
A feeder rat can be just as good as a breeder though. I've had several feeders and some had clearly been handled well by the people in the store and weren't afraid of humans at all. Make sure you handle the rats before buying them.
Like other anons have said, you should get two from the start. They will not bond lesser with you because of it , they are a pack animal who form huge family groups in the wild. If you get two from the same litter, they will already be friends and you won't have to worry about introducing them. Rats who have been alone for two long can have problems being introduced to newcomers.
1. Get two
2. Not of the same sex
3. They chew on all kind of stuff so watch them.
4. Get them young.
5. They are pussies so it will tak some time till they realize you are not dangerous.
6 to give them traits but them on your hand (the traits) and wait for them to get them. Don't push it
7.Give them raw pasta from time to time it's good for their teeth.
8. The floor of their jail should be flat.
I made a post in the other Rat General that maxed out some days ago that I had to put down one of my female rats at the vet mid October. Unfortunately, in the noon time, her cage mate(and my last rat) died of a heart attack in my arms today. As corny as this sounds these two precious girls changed my life. I was really miserable, lonely and depressed and they changed everything. I'm going to miss them so much. I don't know what I'm gonna do without them. RIP my babies.
Here's an old picture of them from November of 2014.
They only live for 2-3 years. Castration of small rodents is expensive and there is a pretty big risk of complications. If you can avoid a major surgery like that by not deliberately keeping males and females together you should fucking do it.
People do not normally get rats of the same sex, don't advice new buyers to do so.
Funnily enough I came on here to ask about that.
Is it worth neutering my female rats? There's no chance of them becoming pregnant, but I'm worried about mammary tumours. My oldest rat has one and is too old to have it removed, I don't want my two baby ones to face that situation in the future.
>normally get rats of the same sex
Fuck obviously I meant of different sex.
Tumors are the worst. Spaying females drastically decreases the risk of them getting one, but I've read in a research paper that about 6% of spayed females still develop mammary or pituitary tumors.
A surgery on a small animal is always extra risky, so I would make sure the vet is one with extensive knowledge of rodents.
Just got some rats. Any tips for a first timer and how to bond?
And post ur rats
Speak to them in kind voice, don't grab them from upwards, always reach from under if you pick them up. When they are comfortable outside of cage and climbing on you you can try t tickle them - this kind of play seem to make rats bond very close to their owners and cagemates.
Also, I read that an enclosed play area outside of their cage is good for their daily romping; but what do I make the cage out of that they can't escape? And can I put tubs and what not in the area for play or will that just over-stimulate them?
You can try to find a doggy gate that isn't one they can climb up or through but I just rat proof a room, close the door and let them roam there. Tunes won't over stimulate them. When I had rats I bought them a fuzzy ferret tube for their cage and they loved being in it.
If they are already comfortable with you picking them up, putting them down, climbing all over you, it won1t and they will play with you. It is an imitation of how they play with ech other.
If they are yet scared of you it might freak them out.
Gradually as they become used to you, try to sneak in some cuddling while you're interacting with them. Scratch them behind the ears, tickle them under the chin, it sometimes triggers a grooming response and they'll begin licking your fingers.
The guy in pic related isn't that into cuddling yet, but he likes playing tag with my hand. I scratch him on the butt or tickle him and he jumps up, runs away and sprints back immediately to lick my hand furiously. If I do it enough he starts jumping around getting all excited like a dog.
I let mine freeroam in the bathroom. The males like to leave small drops of pee where they go so a room with tiles is ideal. There us no such thing as too many toys.
There's only one breed, and pet store rats are the same genetically as sewer rats.
No idea why but naked rats seemed more mean. Albinos too.
Peanut butter on a spoon!
Let them explore somewhere safe so they can come to you when they want to. I let them scamper around and come to me when they want pets/treats. Avoid grabbing them if it scares them.
They're definitely sick. The humidifier/shower thing is good. Thanks for taking them to the vet :)
I'm sorry for your loss!
I've never done it or known anyone who has. One of my girls now has a big ole mammary tumor :( poor baby
Don't tickle a rat unless it's not scared of you?
No such thing as over stimulating rats. You should google around, there's lots of great ideas on the internet. You can even use cardboard but it won't last forever. Mine freeroam in my room but they're naughty so I have to watch them all the time.
I've never seen one choke on anything, and I've owned like 50 rats. You could also put soup, baby food, or puree on a spoon. The idea is to force them to be near you if they want the treat, instead of them just running and hiding.
With the hairless it was really weird- they were one of several accidental litters and they were little bitches even though all their siblings were sweet as pie.
You can find whatever the most common rat is called, dumbo and albino rats in stores, and hairless and tailless rats with some breeders. And pet store rats are not the same genetically as sewer rats. What he said is reasonable only if he meant rat breeds aren't as varied as dogs and aren't as distant to sewer rats as dogs are to wolves but only then.
Some of you may remember from a few rat generals back, I made a post about one of my girls having a mammary tumour. Because of her age (2yrs 4 months) we decided it was too risky to have it removed, so decided to let her live her natural life and have her put to sleep if she started suffering too much.
She's still trucking, but she's starting to show signs that her quality of life is slipping. She's not as active as she used to be and is struggling with jumping and climbing. Usually when I open the top of their cage they come running out and jump across to the bookcase next to it. Yesterday she climbed out, hesitated at the gap, then turned round and went back inside. Made me realise time's running out for her.
Checked with my local vets and they carry out home euthanasia. It's more expensive, but she gets so distressed at the vets I'd rather pay extra and have her put to sleep somewhere she feels safe. I'm hoping it won't ever come to this- she's old and still got life in her, but I wanted to know what our options were if it comes to the worse.
Hold me, /an/ ;_;
Not sure how much time my old lady has left. Blind in both eyes and been on medicine for her pituitary tumor for half a year now. Even though I feed her baby food and other stuff you can still easily feel her bones. Still boggles when you cuddle with her but dang it. ;_;
Would you guys be opposed if I asked a mouse question here? I couldn't find a mouse or rodent general
>mouse gets inflamed eye
>Vet gives me vetropolycin to give him
>eyes get better, but now hair loss and scratches down his face from constant scratching
>go back to vet, vet advises to use vetropolycin on both eyes and on scratches now
>he still scratches that area, to the point that it bleeds sometimes
>bring him to vet, assuming he will have to be put down
>vet tells me to up the medication to at least 2Xs a day, but seemed worried by his condition
I'm not sure what to do. I switched bedding from wood shavings to carefresh, thinking the latter would actually be a better choice because it has less dust, but I've been told it has perfume in it that might make him allergic. I've also tried putting in toys and things to explore, thinking he may be scratching out of boredom, but he seems to just stay on the platforms most of the time, which strengthens the theory that it could be the bedding. But if it is the bedding, what should I use instead? Switch back to wood shavings? Anyone experience anything like this? I don't want my mouse to die just because he is a little neurotic
I'm considering adopting some baby rats from a place in jersey that happens to be really far from me. Itd be a 4.5 hour trip on public buses.
I wonder if this is inadvisable for 6 week old rats. I plan to get them a towel lined plastic bin with holes poked in lid and stashing them in my pack to not get kicked off bus. I'll leave them some fruits for hydration.
What do you think, can I pull off the smuggling or would it be too stressful for the ratsos?
I don't think they're kinder at all, but I have slowly come to suspect that dumbo rats are...er, dumber. My standard ears have been a bit nicer but not enough that I'd call it a trend, but they've also seemed markedly smarter than my dumbos.
But yeah, if you want a certain personality of rats then handle a few until one seems to have that personality, don't go by appearance.
Most male rats can benefit from neutering though (and it's barely invasive; go watch a video on YT if you don't believe me, a very simple surgery. Whatever risk there is is from improper anesthesia); makes introductions much easier and they have less stress from hormones.
Spaying is a greyer area since it's actually a bit dangerous, yet has definite cancer risk reduction benefits.
>No idea why but naked rats seemed more mean. Albinos too.
Both of my hairless rats were complete sweethearts. Also, my PEW was the most cuddly. Red-eyed rats have worse eyesight than others, so if they are bonded to you, they will tend to stick closer. My PEW got spooked more easily and would run up to me and press against me when he was scared. He loved taking naps on my bed.
>Peanut butter on a spoon!
Peanut butter is not safe for rats. Many people have given it with no ill effects, but because of how sticky it is there is a choking hazard. And yes, there have been cases of rats choking to death on it. There are many, many, safer alternatives.
>They're definitely sick. The humidifier/shower thing is good. Thanks for taking them to the vet :)
Please be careful with the shower/humidifier. If what they are suffering from is an upper respiratory infection than it may help. However, things like pneumonia can have very similar symptoms and if you put a rat with pneumonia in a steamy room and it can exacerbate it and cause the rat to die. I learned this lesson the hard way, and I tend to avoid steamy rooms for sick rats unless I am 100% sure.
>I've never done it or known anyone who has. One of my girls now has a big ole mammary tumor :( poor baby
Spaying females is a more common practice than you might think. The risks for mammary tumors are immense in female rats. Spaying is a decision you should make carefully, but many find it worth it.
Can you give us a little more info? It is going to be extremely hard to care for them if they are truly a week old. Very likely they will die. If you can post a picture, it'll help us age them.
I don't know about the week figure it might be two or three. Definitely under 6 weeks because they are smaller than ones at another place that said theirs were about 6 weeks. I just guessed, honestly no idea how old they are. The lady at the store just separated them from their mom but didn't give me an exact age. They are eating solid food and stuff. I'll post a pic when I get back from work in like 6 hours.
Anon you were responding to. Thank you for the information! I usually give soup or yogurt, but I'll be sure not to recommend doing that with peanut butter.
Are you able to distinguish between myco and pneumonia? I dose antibiotics at home and I don't think the treatment would do any better, but I'll check with a vet.
You can tell pretty exactly how old they are. That was a scare though, they're definitely older than a week.
One of my rats was diagnosed with a pituitary tumor after he started tilting his head, but he has been showing no other symptoms. It has been 3 moths since I took him to the vet and nothing has changed. He still tilts his head, but he eats, grooms and plays as normal. Is it still certified to be a pituitary tumor? Wouldn't it have gotten worse or affected him more somehow by now?
What could it be then? The vet said she couldn't be sure as he was otherwise fine, and that it might also be due to an ear infection so he got antibiotics for that just in case. But if it was an ear infection, wouldn't his head tilt have stopped? His left eye began protruding a bit some days before I took him to the vet, and she suspected it was because the tumor was pushing on it and I got some eye drops to use every day, but it hasn't gotten worse. He can close it fine and doesn't seem bothered.
>Are you able to distinguish between myco and pneumonia?
I spoke to the vet about it, but it was a few years ago and I don't remember the details. Only because of the bad experience I had with the one rat would I not do the shower thing without speaking with a trusted vet first. Both of my rats right now have been suffering from URIs for a few months and they are on medication twice daily. It's a pain, but it's been working quite well for them.
No, but I go drive by one about once a week. Think they still carry them? Seriously, after my dogs killed all of my cats I've had constant mouse/rat problems. Used to use glue traps for mice, but the rats are big bastards so I don't think it'd work the same. Pellets are GOAT.
Let them come to you. Usually when I get a brand new rat I leave them alone for the first 1-2 days. Then I'll stand by the cage with the door open and play video games/read etc for about 30min two times a day. Rats are curious. When they feel safe they get curious. When they come up to you (and they will) don't make a move to grab them. Just ignore them and let them see what you are. Do this right and you'll end up with a rat on your head. After this it's time to break out the treats. Be generous with them especially when they come up to you. After a while unless you have an especially skittish rat they will have no fear in approaching you
Letting them approach you if a fine way to do it, but I always went the opposite way. Have them out with you constantly. Stay on your bed with them for hours after you bring them home. Get into a playpen with them. Let them wander around the bathroom and sit on the floor and read. For HOURS. Give them no time alone. It's called the "immersion method" and I prefer it. It forces them to get used to you and they'll do it a lot faster this way. I think they bond better this way too.
Look for a supplement called turkey tail mushroom, you can order it from health shops. It comes in capsules with the fungus powder inside. Mix half a capsule with a bit of mashed banana/chocolate spread/some other mashed food your rats like, and feed daily to your rat.
It won't cure the tumour, but it will slow down the growth. One of my girls has an inoperable tumour that started growing rapidly, but the mushrooms have really slowed it down. It's still pretty big, but 4 months down the line it's still manageable; I suspect she'd be dead otherwise. It also seems to have perked her up.
Well, I started owning them when I was 7 or 8 and the store was out of hamsters. I've spent probably a decade of my life owning rats. I didn't have them for the past 5 years because of unstable housing, but now I have 4 girls :D
Add in a whole bunch of accidental litters from when I was keeping boys and girls in a cage that I THOUGHT was secure but wasn't. It might be more than 50. I did find homes for all of them but now I won't keep males and females in the same house.
They didn't all have names, usually we just names the distinguishable ones (whether because of a marking or because they had such great temperament). My girls now don't have proper names yet, just nicknames. I remember all of my favorite rats though.
Why dont you people just get up and go take a pic of your rat right now? I like your rats
Currently sitting on the sofa with my 3 girls. Here's 2 of them.
my rat got pneumonia :( But I've been spending more time with her to keep her company since she has to stay seperated from my friends rat until she's off her medication
she's the sweetest thing c:
I had hamsters like 15 years ago, I want to try keeping some rats, but the space I have its reduced.
How big should the cage be?, I have lots of cables, I guess they will fucking destroy them.
if it's hard to let them out to play (cables, cats, mousetraps, etc) the cage should be fairly big. at least a couple levels and room for them to get exercise. you'll see what i mean - when a rat has room to run and play and bounce off the walls, they will. i learned this the hard way, at first i had a cage that was too small.
None of my rats (i've had 10) has ever bitten cables. They chew on lots of other things when I let them out - clothes and wall panels, but has never showed any form of interest in my cables. My Guinea pig wanted to chew on them constantly, but the rats never payed them any mind. You can never know of course, all it takes is one rat thinking it could be tasty to try them out.
They need a big cage - search for specific rat, chinchilla and ferret cages. They can be expensive, but if you buy a used one it's fairly cheap.
damn i'd let my little bitch out to explore my aparement until i caught her knawthing through an extension cord. she was into the copper core before i stopped her. if she had shorted that cable it woulda been POOF
pic is pretty much what i found
Cool. Well, they won't be outside of their cage if I'm not home. And I guess I could make something so they cannot leave my room, no one else here likes rats.
And, can you train them to come back if they escape or something?, I've seen some videos and little rascals seem to be quite smart.
and final question, I guess they will be using their wheel at 5am, no?. I'll have to look for a noiseless wheel. though, I remember my hamsters biting on the cage trying to get out.
i'm not expert enough to answer most of your questions - but just make absolutely sure you don't have any cracks or passages in walls or through floors (especially under/behind wall skirting, radiator pipes, in closets, etc). remember that carpet tends to cover holes that might exist around edges... you won't see them but ratfriend will find them and suddenly drop throught he ceiling into the kitchen or something.
rats are noisy as fuck early morning. it doesn't matter what you do. even the water bottle makes so much noise, and they'll go apeshit on that thing, and everything else. i used to just slide the cage into my closet at night.
Rats aren't usually interested in wheels, it doesn't stimulate them enough. But they will be playing and fighting which makes noise. They don't bite bars unless they're bored or live in a too small cage.
>can you train them to come back if they escape or something?
Escape where? If a rat crawls into a space where you can't get it out or it won't respond, it will likely come back to its cage voluntarily after some time, they treat the cage as their safe-place and home. You can train them to come when you call, but it doesn't always work if the rat is too invested in something else. Bribing with food helps a lot. I usually shake their box of nut treats and they come running as soon as they hear the sound.
I've never had a rat actually escape. If they go missing they tend to come back within a day or two. I've seen rats on Youtube who come back like a dog when their name is called.
I find that they're much quieter at night when they've been out exploring during the day. And cables can be a problem- some won't chew on them, mine will especially if there's a tag on it.
Most rats don't like wheels, so that's optional.
New rat owner. I have three rats all around 6 weeks or under. I'm worried because the heat just got cut off in my apartment. They are all hiding under a blanket. Is there anything I can further do to keep them warm (besides calling about the heat in the morning)?
>heat just got cut off in my apartment
just make sure they have enough fluffy stuff to nest in. i used to give my rat paper towels and she'd pull them into her little wooden box house and make a nest. they'll be fine as long as they have a place to nest anon.
also for chrissake fix ya heat!
I just got rats again today. Three of them. They are all 6 weeks or under. They are currently hiding under a blanket. Wtf dude stop copying me.
>however, the heat in my apt is working
Where did you get them from? Maybe the other guy decided they needed to live with someone who could pay the bills.
Anyways I've been struggling to make my girls take their antibiotics. Mixed em with water but got worried when they didn't touch it for a full day. I ended up making a nasty soup with Ensure, bread, and human probiotic pills, but that's not a good long term solution since it'll spoil if left for a few hours. Any ideas?
((next time I'm just mixing the meds in with some food))
Also does anyone have experience with withholding food/water for a day? I want to encourage them to finish off the medicine goop quickly but I worry that they could be picky enough to become dehydrated or starved.
Your best bet for meds IMO is blueberry pancake syrup. They'll eat that shit right up. If all else fails i just use a 1cc syringe and pop it in their mouth and make em take it. No it wont make then hate you.
Ive had rats for about 10 years now. Feel free to ask me questions, cant be bothered searching the thread for unanswered ones so make sure you reply to me. I compound my own meds and have access to a vet that over the 10 years has learned alot about them so any question will get answered. As far as what ive seen in this thread, ive had 6 nakeds and 4 rex's none of which have been mean, countless dumbos which while theyre affectionate dont seem more so than any other although a little doofy.
Yes they do. But not all of them and no you cant train it out of them. It seems like they only do it when theyre real happy though so relish in that fact. Youll get used to it as nasty as it sounds lel
My 1.5 year old recently-adopted rat has been off the past several days. I noticed his appetite was lessened before I left town and my mom just called saying she noticed porphyrin around his eye (she was afraid it was blood). I'll be back home later this evening.
Are there any broad-spectrum antibiotics available without a prescription? I've been around the block a few times and know that's the first thing a vet's gonna do.
If you live near a tractor supply co or another farm supply store you can buy a big bag of oxytetracycline for 6 bucks. That's what I use. You can pick up ivermectin in case of mites there too :-)
Im sure you know but ill add. Be super careful with ivermectin, everyone says a piece about the size of uncooked rice but i give half of that and still get good results. Overdosing is pretty much 100% lethal with the stuff. They also have apple flavored which they seem to like.
check out marten's cages. rats are escape artists and you're better off buying a high quality cage because otherwise they're going to piss on it and chew on it and it's gonna get ruined fast. I buy other pet supplies off ebay though.
didn't know it was so lethal. good to know! my girls love the apple flavored.
Yeah, and they walk over you deliberately to mark your hands/arms/clothes with their piss. It's only a few drops though, and it doesn't smell. In my experience they do it a lot when they're young, but kind of stop the older they get.
Got two rats from a really horrible pet store where they were to be sold as feeders. One we thought was just of more relaxed temperament and the sneezing was due to a new home and the bedding but she was sick and died earlier this week. Unfortunately the other one might be showing symptoms. She is sneezing extensively and sometimes makes weird noises when she breathes. I checked some health guides online but they are difficult and I don't know exactly what the first rat had but obviously it was some respiratory thing. What if anything should I do to save the other one? Is there any medication that I can try? Thanks a bunch
I swear I post this every day. Either pester your vet for antibiotics, go to a farm supply store, or find antibiotics intended for fish. I buy oxytetracycline for $6 at the tractor supply co.
Follow dosing here http://ratguide.com/meds/
Mind that with antibiotics, dosing is very important. She most likely has myco, a very common URI found in rats. Dosing too often or skipping/skimping on dosage can breed more resistant myco, so don't fuck up.
Thanks a bunch. I was checking rat guide but their search functionality sucks. It seems I want either enrofloxacin or doxycycline. Next week is finals and I'm a city without a car so I won't be able to go to a farm supply store until later this week. I'm looking online and having trouble finding places to buy even when searching their brand names of baytril and vibramycin. All I found was 1800petmeds dot com but they just have tabs and I would prefer to mix it in the water. Where is good to buy pet meds online?
ebay. it's easy to get them in the form of fish antibiotics and most will be in a capsule so you can mix the powder with water. you can buy large quantities of livestock antibiotics online too.
if you can get a ride out to the farm store that's definitely the most economical :) I had to struggle out there by bus to get some last week. two hour bus ride but at least I have enough medicine for like a decade. good luck with your babies and with finals!
Thanks a bunch! Found a bunch of 100mg capsules on eBay. One last question. ratguide says that it should be 100mg capsule in 4ml of water which is tiny! I'm in America so using stupid imperial but 4ml is under a teaspoon and i assume my rat has more than a teaspoon of water a day. So I would need 5 capsules for 4 teaspoons of water and even that feels a bit small for the amount consumed daily. Is that right? Or am I misreading the dosage? Because if I'm right and need to dose for at least 10 days I would need over 50 capsules.
oh, for doxycycline? I've never used it that medicine but yes 100mg cap in less than a teaspoon. The small dosage makes it easier to make sure she gets all of it, actually: you can follow the directions in the link below or feed them with a syringe or mix it in with something else. You'd provide with water as usual.
You're misreading the dosage:
>100 mg capsule in 4mL water/fresh daily = .10mL/lb for 14 to 30 days
Am I remembering right that you have one young girl? She probably weighs half a pound. If you don't have a scale I reccomend either getting one or telling your vet you don't need a full visit, just help with dosing and he might help you out.
these are helpful too. I love this website.
HOLD THE FUCKIN PHONE
>Can retard fetal skeletal development. It is not recommended to give in rats under 4 months of age, or to pregnant animals unless the benefit outweighs the risk.
glad I caught that. try to find a different med and run it by me, I'd do it for you but I'm supposed to be working on my finals :)
Thanks I'm stupid that makes more sense
Whoa awesome thanks. I found those medicine treat ball things and was amped and about to buy the medicine and everything until I saw your post. I saw that clause but didn't read past "pregnant". Fuck. Gonna call the vet after finals tomorrow for another medicine. Will report back.
I have been feeding my rat ball pythons lately. I am worried that the pythons carry parasites and I have quit feeding them to my rat. Garter snakes are smaller and easier to manage, and they are less likely to make my rat sick.
On a serious note, this. I had one rat and he lived 3-4 years with no company aside from me. He was depressed, agoraphobic (terrified of leaving cage), and overweight. I took him outside to play in a flower bed, he crawled in a bush and killed a small snake. He died this April from paralysis (apparently common in males). I have two happy females now. Do not introduce an adult male to another. They will fight to the death over cage territory. Get some wooden stuff for them to chew on. They won't quit eating and DIE from tooth problems as quickly as guinea pigs do, but it can still be a serious problem. Don't feed oranges (and maybe other citrus) to males since the white part can cause bladder cancer. Aside from that they can pretty much eat any food, but try to keep it healthy and not too fattening unless you want to research diabeetus.
This anon again. Family failed to mention on that phone that he's also lethargic and breathing hard. Will be hitting up the vet first thing tomorrow morning. Probably the same antibiotics will be prescribed but it can't wait.
there's also different antibiotics that I know are available on ebay. antibiotics tend to be fairly safe, which is why they're available over the counter if you know where to look. some vets though will just give you the meds. but yeah that's why it's important to double check everything :)
males=a little gross
females=hyper as hell
it pretty much evens out.
that snake got REKT
most males can live fine with each other if introduced properly.
>most males can live fine with each other if introduced properly.
It's possible but very difficult if they are both adults and one was already living in the cage. My rat attacked the other and left him with permanent scars. They would fight on neutral territory (the bathtub) as well. Females are a lot more hyper than males. My first male was unusually calm and introverted though, he had a similar personality to me and my first male dog. He wouldn't bite people though. Some rats nibble but I haven't had one that would bite enough to hurt you. They are nicer than most rodents.
I've never had that happen. Maybe it's more of a problem when it's one on one since all my introductions with male rats have been one male into an cage established with multiple males? Only serious rat-on-rat aggression I've had was when my dwarf rat killed a baby :( that was somewhat my fault though.
Mix the medicine with either mashed banana, yoghurt or chocolate spread. Even if they hate the medicine, they'll lick the spoon clean. Mine pull hilarious faces because they're clearly disgusted by the medicine, but they love the food it's mixed with.
It's also a nice bit of bonding if you get them to sit on your lap to lick the spoon. Mine is so used to it she'll run up to me when she knows it's medicine time.
Also, to add, don't mix with fruit juice or smoothies. Although rats can have it, it can upset their stomachs. I once gave one of mine some antibiotics mixed with a berry smoothie, it gave her explosive poops that came out the same colour as the smoothie. I thought she was dying at first ;_;
Thanks. Just called the vet in my neighborhood but they only take cats and dogs and the closest one that takes "exotic" pets is far and I might not make it until later this week. Does anyone know of antibiotics that are good for rats younger than 4 months that can help with myco / respiratory infections? If so I want to order online ASAP so it doesn't get worse.
I wouldn't order online anon, the dosage amount has to be carefully calculated based on the rat's weight. Too little and it won't do shit, too much and it may make your rat sick, or even kill it.
problem was I'd already mixed the meds in water. I figured out a way to get it into them, tho. ensure and maple syrup!
possible there was dairy in the smoothie?
so I checked out these meds. they are available on ebay and amazon and are safe for young rats.
These are a little expensive online though. Try calling ANY vet, antibiotics are used pretty widely. Try to get them to just give you the meds. Sooner you can get them, the better. And I recommend buying a needleless syringe and a pocket scale at the same time if you can.
Sure is ded here. While my rats sickness is super shitty for me at least it's keeping the general alive
I just came back from the vet and got some meds. She's not too keen on taking it so I'm mixing it in with some banana and might make medicine balls later per the ratguide recipe. Any good things to put the medicine in? It's this nasty ass bubblegum flavor
Two of my rats are showing respiratory symptoms again. They were treated for a respiratory infection last month, were symptom free, and now it's back. Sigh.
Thankfully my vet is great and not too expensive.
Can someone give me tips on socializing the three 6 week old females I got last weekend? I picked only the most social ones but now they hide all day and are really hesitant to take treats from me. And strangely they seem to dislike yogurt, apples, carrots, and raisins. I'm afraid they're not eating enough in general. Help?
>Pic is a noiseless running wheel made for them from knex. I plan to line it with a strip of carpet on the inside.
My rats and my dog get along great. They're never left alone together, I'm always watching.
Dog is a border collie so she tries to herd them around lmao. Certain breeds were bred to hunt and kill rats though so be careful.
Cool , i have a collie as well but he seems bummed since my cat died . Was thinking of trying out a new pet and my best friend had rats when i was younger , use to build massive mazes for the lil fooks
my cat would just sit and watch them. she would stick her paws through the bars and they would bite her, they were not scared at all of her but i never let her near them when they were out.
How are rats when it comes to leaving a smell, assuming regular enclosure cleaning and such ? They seem like cool pets but sometimes im entertaining and would rather present a pleasent smelling house to guests
I love your wheel!
If you let them free feed they should be fine, assuming you aren't noticing any health issues. Some tips for socializing:
-Put food on a spoon for them and let them lick it off.
-Just chill next to their cage as often as you can. Read a book or dick around on your computer. Talk softly to them.
-Don't grab them out of the cage. Let them learn your hands are safe and that if they come up to you, they'll get food!
-If you can rat proof a room, do so. Leave the cage door open and let them explore. If they come investigate you, give them treats.
Don't stress though. New rats can be very shy. Right now they're scared, but pretty soon they'll be too curious to just hide. I'm assuming they have plenty of hiding spaces?
my shih tzu used to round up the babies for me when they escaped. she'd put them gently in her mouth and plop them in my lap. never had a single injured rattie from her.
I have four girls and with weekly cleaning you don't smell their cage. If you're worried about the smell just keep their cage out of the main rooms and clean it regularly and it's fine. If you're a neat freak, clean the cage 2x weekly and stick it in the shower or under a hose once weekly.
Boys smell stronger, but again if you clean it regularly it won't be a problem. Same as with litter boxes though, if you clean it twice a month it's gonna smell baaaaaaaaad.
I'm having trouble finding treats that they'd like enough to overcome their shyness. They didn't even lick yogurt with apple bits from a spoon because I was there. Have any suggestions?
They have a space pod covered with my unwashed shirt to hide in but they spend all their time there.
I've only kept females but I've read that males are way more mellow and lazy.
My girls are very active, if they're out of the cage, they've on the move. My oldest is approaching her 3rd birthday and I sometimes get to pet her for a few seconds before she wants to resume running around and exploring.
I imagine it's because they're still scared. Be patient and keep trying. With rats that aren't used to people it can be slow, just keep trying every day. With daily contact, even the grumpiest rat can learn to enjoy human company!
I adopted my girls just a month ago, but these are some of their favorite foods:
most boys are lazy cuddlebugs.
most girls are hyper maniacs.
love my girls but I wish they'd stay still sometimes.
Always supervise your rats with other animals, especially cats and dogs. Even if the cat/dog overcomes its instinct to eat the prey animal, they are still massively bigger than the rats and can accidently hurt them.
Our 3 year old male was like that, he wouldn't want to sit on you for very long before exploring. His health deteriorated a little bit and he has more trouble walking but on the plus side he likes snuggling and sleeping under clothes and getting pats now
Some dogs do great with rats. My parent's Old Danish Pointer (which are ironically bred to catch small animals) was crazy about the rats. Whenever he came over he would run to the cage and start bawling because he wanted to get in, and he didn't want to bite or hunt them, he just wanted to lick and be friends. He would whine when we put the rats back in in the cage and lay down next to it and sleep. Was always super gentle with them.
Their other dog though, German Sheppard, well she was also really excited about the rats, but it was clear from her body language it was for other reasons. I have no doubts she would have eaten them up in a second if we had put them out with her.
I would be very cautious with a cat, it's their instinct to hunt and kill rats.
Must have been a pet someone released. I've always wondered if in the right location domesticated rats would be able to form a colony, though. Like how some parks are overrun with wild/domestic hybrid rabbits.
This documentary might be relevant to your interests. It follows the life of a group of lab rats released into a protected area where they're observed to see if they will display normal wild rat behavior and be able to survive on their own, despite never having set foot outside of their bare cage or interacted with other rats.
I think it's real interesting how quick the rats adapt and regain their normal behavior.
Two of my rats were adopted. Apparently their former owner marched into a pet shop and demanded that if they didn't take them up for adoption she'd release them into the wild. Pet shop took them in, put a sign up offering them for adoption rather than sale, and I took them.
They're the sweetest, moth loveable pair, and they wouldn't have lasted 10 minutes in the wild. The thought of this bitch dumping them outside, and the idea of them huddling scared and cold, makes me just shake with anger. There's a special place in Hell for people like that.
Rats are actually awesome.
They're smart enough to learn their name, come when called, and do tricks if you're clever about teaching them. They're very social and very curious and it's like having a little friend, as opposed to a ferret, who in my experience is always just using you, and a guinea pig, who in my experience is always just terrified and doing nothing.
They often get tumors after they're a year or two old and the last months of their life are hard to watch as they can't burrow or climb and have to drag a big lump around.
>Releasing pet rodents into the wild
I remember some anon from a pet rage thread told how they'd gotten their Guinea pig. The previous owner had just placed the poor pig in an open cage in the middle of a forest road, and anon found it huddling up all scared in the back of it - luckily it had been too frightened to move.
But who does that?! How stupid do you really have to be to think your Guinea pig or rat who has never been outside or dealt with predators, could survive in an unprotected environment? Do people really fool themselves into thinking the pet will be okay and live happily ever after in the forest? That's the kind of lie you tell a small child after their hamster ran away or something.
I'd rather fucking kill my rats with my bare hands than 'release' them into the wild.
>Is rape natural.
Well.. yes. The need to procreate is natural, humans have raped since the dawn of time. Animals don't do it for other reasons than to pass on their sperm though (you can argue about dolphins because it's been observed they have sex for fun).
Ducks sometimes end up drowning females because they pile on top of them.
Animals low on food chain typically rape or attract mates with a show of force so that stronger, better survivor genes are more often bred.
Predators and less preyed upon animals tend to attract via compassion, gift-giving, and other showy mating rituals to pass on the more fabulous genes. Idk what they're accomplishing with that honestly.
/an/ does your rats 'spazz out' too? One of my boys goes crazy when he's out sometimes, when I tickle him, he jerks around and jumps up, runs away and sprints back so I can do it again. When he's in these moods he also chews on anything he can find - mainly my floor panels and plants.
I've asked before in an earlier thread but I didn't get much answers, how to stop making him eat my damn plants when he's free-roaming? Not only do I not want him eating them for his own good, but he's completely destroying them. I put him back in the cage when he does it, but he doesn't seem to get it, he just goes and does it again the moment he's out. He normally comes when I call, but not when he's eating plants. I try moving them to places I think he won't be able to reach, but he always gets to them somehow. They must be real fucking tasty.
>Idk what they're accomplishing with that honestly.
It basically shows they're awesome and don't give a fuck.
Peacocks, for instance. Males stand out a mile, their giant tails slow them down and are easy targets for predators. But the flashier males get to brag "LOOK AT ME I'M A BIG TARGET BUT I'M SO AWESOME I'M STILL ALIVE DESPITE THESE HANDICAPS". Which means they're stronger and more adaptable than a male that skulks in the shadows.
Well, somebody received the Horned Rat's favor.
Its really not. If it helps, females of those species essentially have rape fetishes since that's the norm for procreation. They want to be overtaken by the cleverest, muscliest mate.
This. I'd rather they became snake food then slowly starve to death, frightened and alone.
Spazzes are pretty common. One of my girls is a massive spaz and does the same as yours. She's also a destructive maniac. Either find a way to get them out of his reach or restrict his free roaming. You could do what some rabbit owners do and make him a little salad.
My rats have been depressed because I've had finals and haven't been able to play with them. They've been sleeping nonstop, poor babies. Finals are over so I'm gonna spoil them rotten.
>norm for procreation
I don't think you understand what a fetish is. I also don't think that an animal can have a fetish. Idk, bugguy would know.
We should have trigger warnings for pictures like this in the rat general, really.
I think that starving to death over weeks is crueler. I have had to rehome rats as feeders as a last resort before. I treat it the same way I would if it was an adoption. If I can ensure decent, if not loving treatment and a fast death that is better than suffering for weeks until they starve to death.
>chance at survival
No, not really.
Planning on picking up two males in the new year from my local pet store. How big of a cage should I get them? I already have a bunch of ideas for toys, and areas they can play in, but I'm stumped on a cage. Any advice?
A ferret-sized cage, ideally. You have to make sure the bars aren't too wide or young ones can escape.
http://www.martinscages.com/products/cages/rat/ check these out, these are amazing cages and you should be able to get them by new years.
I'm thinking about getting a pet rat too, my question is, the only room I can keep them in is my bedroom, which I have a desk to keep a shelter for the rat, but I can't fall asleep with any sound going on, and since rats are nocturnal, I'm wondering how loud, and how manageable the noise is.
>I can't fall asleep with any sound going on
if this is true then you can't keep them in your room, period.
They are nocturnal, but if you entertain them during the day I find they're very quiet at night. I play with mine for at least half an hour a little before bed time and I have no trouble sleeping so long as I remember.
It differs. I've had groups of rats that were incredibly noisy, but my current ones are pretty calm and don't keep me awake.
There will be noise no matter what though. They chew and rip paper for nesting, eat food pellets, fight, play and jump around. I replaced their water bottle with a bowl at night because it made too much noise when they all wanted to drink. They're not good to have in the bedroom if you're a very light sleeper imo.
Hmm, alright. I really hate that my asshole roomate won't let me at least keep them in like the living room, but he pays most of the rent so eh. Hell, might be smarter to just find something I can block noise with personally. Maybe some ear plugs, but I sleep on my side so eh.
I see. I really hate to drop my choice to adopt rats, which I think at this point is my only option, but I need to get a pet before I go insane. Any small rodents you'd recommend, low noise and maintenance? A good bedroom pet that's not a boring fish.
hamster? bunny? guinea pig?
idk, your options are pretty much limited. all other rodents are BTFO by rats, no contest.
can you sleep with a fan on? if you can do that plus keep the cage in your closet at night, you'd probably be fine. or move out.
Where did that anon state it was justified? It IS natural, as in humans have had the capacity for it since we evolved from apes. It sure as hell isn't something that has been planted in us by someone else or created by science, and we know not only psychopaths and abnormal people rape, sometimes whole societies are built upon it (forced marriage). Natural doesn't mean 'good'.
Rape, violence and war, just because that's a natural part of humanity doesn't mean it's right. Animals don't rape, they just procreate.
this. "natural" really doesn't mean anything, it's a completely useless word.
is a tree planted by a human nature? because after all, humans are nature, too, are they not?
if the former questions are answered with yes then a smartphone built by roboters built by humans is nature, too.
the borders between natural and artificial are completely arbitrary and have always been.
"natural" doesn't mean good, natural doesn't mean a state that is desirable to achieve, all it means is "this occurs in nature"
how do you know it is rape? why do you say "rape them for literal days" instead of "fuck them for literal days"?
rape is sex without consent. if you don't have any idea of consent, how could it be rape?
Got three rats since this summer (all male). Two of them are great and social especially the Great Groke (bad pic related) who's just fat and happy but I'm having some problems with the smallest one. He refuses to be picked up (keeps screaming) and is constantly afraid of me. Does anyone have any tips on how to make him more sociable?
To him you're a big scary monster, that's why he's scared. But don't worry anon, it can be solved.
He should be used to your voice and smell by now, so you need to show him being around you is a good thing. Put some natural yoghurt on a spoon and let him lick it clean- he'll love the yoghurt but have to stay close to you to eat it. Do this until he's comfortable. Let him run on your sofa/bed, lure him over with the spoon again, but this time he has to sit on your lap to eat it. Build this up until you can rest your hand on him (but don't move it or startle him). Gradually get him used to you touching him.
Remember, always scoop them up from underneath if you can- being grabbed from above triggers a fear response, as that's how birds of prey grab them!
Failing all else, pick him up and don't let go for about 20 mins. They can't keep their fear response up for long periods of time. He'll freak out, then calm down, and eventually realise there's nothing to worry about.
I've tried all of those trick but i guess I will just have to keep trying. I even walked around with him for hours every day in a bonding pouch (altered hoodie) and entire week to make him understand that i don't want to hurt him but he just doesn't seem to get it. He loves yogurt but refuses to eat it from my finger or spoon I'm holding; even when he sees his brothers munch away. I don't think he will ever sit in my lap and chill but just being able to pick him up when he's getting back in the cage would be great.
>pic related, their cage before they moved in.
Yeah- Most commercial cages are either ugly or doesn't live up to Swedish legal standards. In hindsight I should have made the floor a bit bigger but since they mostly just sleep in there it doesn't quite matter.
I have a rat who will NOT stop fucking biting. When I let him and the rest of the rats out, he hangs around me and WON'T STOP FUCKING BITING ME. it's awful. Nothing seems to trigger it. If I put my hands near him in the cage, he sniffs and then bites; Sometimes it's a nibble, other times it breaks skin. He also will bite my toes while I'm walking. And my ears. And my nose. And actually every part of my physical being sans dick and balls have been violated by this animal.
He's not afraid of me, he'll crawl all over
me, no problem. But sometimes, when I go to touch him or pick him up, he'll scream. All the guides online talk exclusively about dealing with aggressive or shy rats, but he doesn't seem to have any reason at all when he bites.
the downside is my older female rat passed away early this year due to old age and she had a mammary tumor. I took her tot he vet and they said it was common and since she is small and it was small at the time it was a 50/50 she would wake up from surgery.
I just let her live the rest of her life till she passed. As for the other one, she ended up not using her back legs and is now developing a mammary tumor as well. I hate it. I've had this one since she was a baby and I don't like seeing her like that. : /
Can you give us an idea anon? Is the sneezing every few seconds, minutes, hours?
This isn't a full list, but look out for any of these symptoms as well:
>Odd clicky breathing if you put your ear to them
>Discharge from nose
>Loss of appetite
>Change in personality/behaviour
>Dirty fur/not grooming themselves
>Sitting there looking miserable/not running about
>Do not introduce an adult male to another. They will fight to the death over cage territory.
You know nothing of rat behavior and should not be giving advice. 99% of male rats should be housed with at least one other rat. Behavioral issues can occur, but if you socialize your rat properly they will get along just fine.
Jenkin and his little brother, Titan. Jenkin had aggression but we worked with him and he adjusted to buddies perfectly. Of our roughly 20 male rats, he was the only one who ever gave us issues.
Guys I have a question.
One of my two rats died today. I was putting him back to the cage, maybe I handled him wrong, maybe he got scared and he bit me quite hard. I dropped him and he had to fall unfortunately because he instantly spasmed. We rushed him to a 24/7 vets but there was only one vet available and was busy with another serious case.
Long story short, I spent 20 minutes watching him die. At the end he just started shaking and stopped breathing. I'm pretty overridden with feelings of guilt atm. Can't stop thinking that I grabbed him in a wrong way or maybe I made his state worse when I took him out of the cage after the fall. Nevermind, that's not the question I came here to ask.
My other rat witnessed the whole ordeal. After the first one fell both me and my gf panicked and I guess that he got scared. It's been 4 hours since we got back without his friend and he's visibly depressed. He's constantly hiding in a hanging sleeve or in his wooden house. He's eager to take snacks from me tho and isn't afraid around me if I take him out of his cage.
Should I get another rat asap? Should it be male too? A small one?
Any advice about what should I do in general?
I should add that the one that died was a little bit dominant, even though the remaining one is a few months older (he was alone before). They got along quite fine, save from some minor fights that occurred on a weekly basis or less often.
Damn, I never thought I would feel so sad and guilty for a rat before.
Pic related, the black one passed away.
>Should I get another rat asap? Should it be male too? A small one?
A new rat is likely to help the remaining one get over his depression. A young male, so the older rat won't feel threatened. You should try and introduce them on neutral ground, clean the cage out real good so it doesn't smell of the resident rat once you feel it's safe to keep them together.
Sometimes, if the resident rat is very territorial and dominant, it's a good idea to place the new one in a closed carrier inside of the cage for some days so the other can get used to its presence and smell.
They will probably fight a bit at first to establish dominance, but as long as no blood is drawn and one isn't being overly aggressive it should be okay.
Oh, and I'm sorry your rat died :(
One of my first ones died of constipation during the span of a few days, and I didn't know much about rats at the time so I just thought he had gotten fat real quick. One day he was suddenly dead in his cage. I then read up on it and realized why he had been so 'round' and felt horrible about not acting on it. He was only a baby...
Sorry for your loss anon :( Don't blame yourself though, rats cope very well with falling, but perhaps the impact triggered another health condition you weren't aware of.
I'd really recommend getting another rat. When I kept a pair and one died, the other became extremely depressed and timid. She wouldn't do anything by herself and I couldn't even coax her out her cage. She'd only come to the doors to be fed. It was heartbreaking. I adopted two new girls and now she's a changed rat, completely different from how she was when she was alone.
Hopefully it shouldn't be too hard to introduce a new rat, as your rat's relationships sound a lot like mine had. Get two new rats (they keep each other company during the introduction phase, plus it saves doing this all over again when another dies), and do the step-by-step gradual introductions (important for you since you have male rats, which can be harder to introduce than females). If they're anything like mine, the lonely one should bond with them quickly, just because he's happy to have company again.
Good luck anon, keeps us informed!
I bought a cardboard castle thing for my rats to play in. It's fantastic. I thought I was wasting my money but it's great.
Dumbos (in my experience) are more docile, dummer, and more prone to morbid obesity. They are wonderful cuddle buddies, but it can be easy to kill them with kindness :(
On a different note, I have a two year old male with a large lump on his hip. Not sure if its a tumor or cyst, but its about egg yolk size I'd say.
He started with two small ones that grew slowly, then one just shrank up until it just became like a wart. This one started to get smaller, then ballooned out. It started out smooth and is now kinda lumpy, but its pretty firm.
Hes already kind of old for surgery, and I really don't have a few hundred to pay a vet. Anything at home I can do?
>Dumbos (in my experience) are more docile, dummer, and more prone to morbid obesity.
I've only had one dumbo, but he fits the bill. Only wants to cuddle or sleep all day long, over-eater, chubby and round, can't make a jump or fight for his life. His method of defense is to poop and stand still. Wouldn't make it a day in the wild.
Hey guys, I'd like to say in advance that I don't currently have any pictures, but I'd appreciate advice from anyone who's gone through anything similar.
I have two rats, one who's age is a mystery and one who's about a year old at this point. I've recently noticed a growth on the tail of my year old rat. It appears to be a tumor, but I'm not sure. It's almost a perfectly round ball, and scary big.
I've been searching for pictures of rat's tumors online and they don't look anything like it.
Is it possible it's some sort of infection, or something else?
I know taking it to the vet is a priority, and I plan to do that ASAP. My family just recently went to the vet for a medical problem with another animal however, and we're a little strapped for cash.
Can anyone offer any advice about what I should do?
Pic is him a few months ago, trying to hide from my mom.
It could be an abscess, it's very easy for a rat's tail to get caught/scratched/bit. It's a bit difficult to tell without seeing the pictures. What does it feel like? Does it move around under the skin, or does it feel attached to the bone?
Does it smell? Abscesses and skin infections on rats smell real terrible. How long did it take to grow? The tail/rump is a popular spot for both abscesses and tumors, so it could be either.
If it turns out to be an abscess you can bring the infection to a head with warm compresses
My fiance and I were at PetSmart today to get some stuff for our cats, and we noticed there was only one rat in the rat cage/terrarium. It turns out that location is no longer going to carry rats and the last remaining one had his buddy taken away a few days ago. We felt so sorry for the poor guy (his name is Samson) so we decided to adopt him. Weirdly enough, they had an extra cage in the back that was returned so we got that for free (normally about $100), and they were having some kind of adoption special so the rat was free too (he was only $12 otherwise, but still not bad).
I know it's recommended that you get two rats at once, but there wasn't another rat in the store and that's part of the reason we got him. Are there any dangers in introducing a cagemate in a few weeks? He seems really chill and laid back, but I've heard male rats can sometimes fight each other? Does anyone have any recommendations? Would it have been better to leave him at the store?
I'm also wondering about behavior. While we were setting up his cage he was fine chilling on my shoulder, but now that it's set up he just wants to sleep inside his plastic hut thing inside the cage. Now, it's only been a few hours and it's about 9PM right now, so I imagine he's just tuckered out, though I really wanted to play with him some more. My assumption is that I shouldn't ever upend his plastic hut because that could cause unneeded stress, but I know it's good to handle rats often. Is it just a case of waiting for him to be more active before taking him back out again?
Firstly anon, well done you for giving him a home! Also you bagged a bargain there.
He really does need to have some cage mates. It can be tricky to introduce new rats, because it depends on their personalities. Some will be fine with meeting new friends, others will be wary, others will hate it. If he's laid back it should hopefully go smoothly. Do you know how to introduce new rats?
When one of my rats was alone in her cage due to the other dying, I noticed she spent a lot of time curled up asleep in her hut. I think being alone kills their desire for play and exploring. Don't drag him out- he needs to associate playtime with you as a positive thing. Wait until he's active, then call him and talk to him as you take him out. Eventually, as he gets used to your voice, he'll poke his head out and come running whenever he hears you.
Good luck anon, feel free to ask us anything!
>mfw rat is having sneezing fits
I think she's got something stuck in her nose, but goddamn it's making me worried. I didn't realise my hypochondria applied to my pets too.
It's normal for rats to be a bit scared and unwilling to leave their hiding place during the first few days of being put in a new cage, especially if they're alone. It should pass once he gets used to you and his new home.
>Should I get another rat?
A cagemate is definitely ideal. How old is the one you just bought? It's always easier introducing a young rat, so if both of them are small and only a few moths old, they should become friends pretty quick. Sometimes an older rat can be aggressive and unwilling to share his territory, but they rarely feel threatened by babies. You will come by the occasional rat that just HATES other rats and want nothing to do with them, but that is far from the norm and shouldn't be expected. For the majority of pet rats, getting them a friend is essential if you want them to be healthy and happy.
I just introduced my 5 month old male who is pretty territorial to a little guy, and it went really well. They fought a bit at first, old rat needed to assert his dominance, baby wanted to hump and challenge him all of the time, but now they sleep rolled up in the hammock looking so cute and cozy together. My older rat is definitely happier than he was a week ago.
>Clean cage out good, move things around
>Place baby rat in small travel cage/carrier/box next to older rat
>Let older rat explore baby rat cage and get used to its smell
>Introduce on neutral grounds(a place that isn't old rat's territory)
>Fighting and chasing is normal, no blood means no foul
>Supervise them the first days, make sure old rat isn't too aggressive.
>Loud squeaking can sound very serious, but often isn't - they're just playing around/not biting or doing each other any harm.
>If they sleep together and groom, they're good.
Depending on how aggressive the old rat is, introduction time can wary, but I have had over 15 males, and only one of them was unable/unwilling to live with others.
Does anyone else have rats that still bite each others ears? Apparently they're supposed to grow out of it but they're almost pushing 3 now. Always biting, squeaking and generally just provoking each other. At least there hasn't been any ear scabbing recently. Silly boys need to grow up.
I had one male who never stopped dragging his brother around by his left ear. I've read it's dominance related and they do it a lot with babies, like power-grooming. It never seems aggressive, but it doesn't seem very nice either...
If the rat seems chill, he'll probably be chill with a new rat too. They love grooming and playing around with each other so much it's just downright sad to see one being kept alone.
They will probably fight, and it can look and sound pretty violent, but as long as they don't bite and draw blood, it's harmless and healthy behavior. They just need to figure out who's the boss, and once that is settled they will be best friends.
Update: We got Samson a cagemate and they hit it off spectacularly. The other one is named Bubbles and at the moment they're both napping in their hut.
Good advice regarding not lifting the hut. I didn't take my own advice and dragged him out once and I feel kinda bad about it. I figure I should wait a day or so and try to coax him out when he's feeling better.
Another issue is Samson hates to be picked up. He doesn't mind being held and he's not scared of us, but once you try to life him (and I'm being as gentle as I can) he tries to run. Any tips? Bubbles is not like that at all so I don't think it's my method of picking them up that's the issue.
Great anon! I find they're so much fun to watch interact and sleep together, really satisfying when an introduction goes well.
Some rats never take to it. You can start by trying to coax him out on your hand with some treats. If he wants to step out fully on your hand to get out of the hut or cage(safe place), it means he trusts you not to hurt him. If not, he still isn't quite sure.
Some rats don't care at all and can just be grabbed, so while another rat is fine with being lifted in one way, another can still be freaked out by the same method if it is less used to handling or just a little skittish. Always try to lift from behind and under the belly if you don't already.
>implying I don't own and love the shit out of a pair of hyperactive valley girl rats
>and a ball python whose meals I kill myself
>and enjoy watching wild rats and mice get rekt by sadistic cats
Just for about 20 minutes. She's better today. I just get paranoid whenever they start sneezing because I know how serious it can be.
She had no other symptoms, so I think she just had some dust in her nose. Will give the cage a good clean tonight anyway just to be sure. Thanks anon!
It still amuses me how newfags think /an/ gives a shit about animals eating animals.
Wild rat story!
>Wild rat moves into back garden
>Can't have it stay there due to health issues
>Don't want to poison it, decide on a trap to humanely kill it instantly
>Lay trap, bait with peanut butter
>Check trap next morning
>Rat has activated trap and licked it clean
>Rat does same trick again
>Smart fucker sets off trap and eats the bait for over a week
>One point it sits right under a hawk on my fence and just cleans itself
>Eventually just disappears
Rats are smart fuckers alright.
Advice needed guys. One of my rats has recently become very bitey. She's a grumpy old lady anyway, and has a tumour that is no doubt annoying her. The past few weeks though she's started to nip very hard.
It's not aggression or fear; she'll just be wandering over you as usual and suddenly sink her teeth in. It really fucking hurts (I had the fun of being bit right on the nipple), and even though she bolts in fright when we yelp/physically remove her, she still keeps doing it. It's getting to the point I'm getting nervous about letting her on me, since I'm expecting a bite any second.
What's going on, and how can we stop it?
It's a mammary tumour. Due to her age we decided not to get it removed because she was unlikely to survive the surgery.
The biting is strange, since she's showing no signs of aggression or fear when she does it. She's a pink eye and has done the curious nibbling to see what something is before, but never hard biting like this.
>Some dogs do great with rats. My parent's Old Danish Pointer (which are ironically bred to catch small animals) was crazy about the rats. Whenever he came over he would run to the cage and start bawling because he wanted to get in, and he didn't want to bite or hunt them, he just wanted to lick and be friends. He would whine when we put the rats back in in the cage and lay down next to it and sleep. Was always super gentle with them.
It never ceases to amaze me how dogs can be capable of being such tender, loving creatures.
Ratties :) Control Group on the left, Variable on the right.
2 goldfish and a loach. Would love a dog, but since me and my partner both work full time it'd be unfair to have a dog and leave it alone all day. Sigh.
A local store is selling harvest mice and I love the idea of keeping them (SO SMOL), but maybe when I have more money.
woke up yesterday and noticed one of my boys was acting weird. he spent the entire day just sitting in one spot, isn't eating and wants to cuddle non-stop if i pick him up. He's nearly 3 years old and already has had lots of health issues and it feels bad knowing even if I took him to vet and they figured out what was wrong it probably won't help much and they will most likely recommend putting him to sleep. Poor guy just sits with his nose poking out of the cage bars looking at me looking just miserable.
This is what happened to one of my girls anon, one morning she didn't want to come out of her nest, but she was still awake and acknowledging me. I thought she was having one of her lazy days, but a few hours later she died. I think they must know when their end is coming. I'm so sorry for your loss anon. 3 years is a good run for a rat, and the fact he just wanted to cuddle with you shows he loved you a lot. You gave him a happy life anon, take comfort from that.
>adopt pair of male rats in mid-autumn
>end of November one of them starts losing weight, acting lethargic, breathing hard
>take to vet
>$135 fucking dollars for the vet to tell me it's a bad respiratory infection (no shit) and prescribe Baytril
>.25ml SID for 3 weeks
>rat comes around after about a week, back to his old self
>give last dose on Christmas
>go out of town for a few days
>come back, he already seems lethargic again
The fuck do I do now, guys? I can't afford to keep shelling out like this for an animal that will only live another year if I'm lucky, but I also can't just let him suffer.
Taking my boy to the vet next week to get his leg amputated. He has breathing issues but his leg has been giving him such a bad quality of life now there isn't much choice. Wish him luck. Really hope he goes through anesthesia fine.
Regarding when they free-roam - are they likely to chew on power cables and the like?
I ask because short of my bathroom there isn't really a room that doesn't have cables or other things I wouldn't want them chewing.
They usually show little to no interest in cables, but you can never really be sure of course, and it won't take long for a rat to chew through one if they decide to try. I let mine freeroam in my room without any problems with cables, but they chew on other stuff - anything wooden. It differs from rat to rat. Some chew a lot, and some you can let out without ever needing to worry about it.
Def get your rat a new cagemate. How to introduce them depends on how territorial your current rat is. It usually goes well unless one of them has a serious aggression/fear problem.
Bag + car exhaust is NOT a good humane way to kill a small animal yourself. There is a big risk of it not passing out in time - which means they slowly choke to death while terrified and fully aware.
Anyone who kills rats on a regular basis(snake owners) will tell you the quickest way to kill the animal without it feeling pain is to either chop its head clean off or break its neck. Very few pet owners are able to do that (me included), which is why some resort to the coward's way of putting the animal in a bag where you don't have to see it suffer as you hope it dies peacefully.
If you can't kill your pet by giving it a quick and painless death, you take them to the vet.
Have you heard about amoxillin? It's antibiotics you can use for rats and other small pets. Many rat owners have it on hand to treat their pets for sudden respiratory problems and secondary infections. If you search on it you can find a lot of sources explaining where to buy it, how to dose etc. It's labelled as 'fish mox' but safe for rats.
Continued about amoxicillin. Source: http://www.ratfanclub.org/resp.html
>This is the first antibiotic I recommend trying in most situations because although it is not effective against Mycoplasma, it is the best choice for secondary infections. Amoxicillin is a broad spectrum bacteriocidal antibiotic in the penicillin family. Even if a rat is on doxycycline or enrofloxacin for mycoplasma, if he develops symptoms of a secondary infection, he should be put on amoxicillin in addition to the other antibiotic. It is also the best antibiotic for abscesses and skin infections, and can be good for urinary infections, especially along with Baytril.
>The most common brand prescribed by veterinarians is Amoxi-drops, a bubblegum-flavored liquid of which the normal dose is 0.2 ml/lb. But amoxicillin capsules can also be used and mixed into a liquid at home. Amoxicillin tastes okay to most rats and so is usually no problem to give in any form. An occasional rat will hate the taste. Amoxicillin is available over the counter for fish. You can order it from www.fishmoxfishflex.com
>Amoxicillin usually comes in a 250 mg capsule, which contains 25 1-lb. doses. To make the dose 0.3 ml/lb, mix one amoxicillin capsule with 7.5 ml of flavoring. (25 X 0.3 ml = 7.5 ml) The dose for a half-pound rat is 0.15 ml. The dose for a 1¼-lb rat is 0.4 ml. To make the dose 0.1 ml/lb, mix one capsule with 2.5 ml flavoring. Store it in the refrigerator. It will be good for at least 2 weeks.
Anon, thank you so much. I'm going to check pet/aquatics stores tomorrow to see if I can find something like this. He took a turn for the worse today, but vets were all closed for New Year's Day and the emergency clinic is $112 just to walk in the fucking door (much less get an exam and treatment). I don't think he'd last live long enough to see the delivery if I ordered online.
>middle of the night, hear tremendous thrashing in the cage
>go check on rats
>one (who has been sick/on antibiotics) is in the midst of what are obviously terrified death throes
>scoop him out, stroke him, speak to him gently until he dies
>kind of shaken, all previous rats were peacefully euthanized
>put body back in cage for a moment
>dead rat's brother and lifelong best bud trundles out of igloo to corpse
>watch, sad and curious to see how he'll react
>he starts - tugging the body?
>he's trying to tear the tongue out of his still-warm <5 min dead brother
>brush him away, he immediately goes back and grabs tongue again
>any time hand is removed from cage he goes for the tongue
I really do try not to anthropomorphize animals and all but this fucked me up. Is this common in rats?
Be careful. They WANT to find your cell phone and laptop cables and destroy them.
It is HARD to rat proof a room. At least so you don't lose the rat forever inside your mattress. It doesn't matter if you remove all the expensive things.
Be OK with it peeing on you. Never wear any clothes more than 24 hours. Also be careful, they will chew up an expensive shirt as well.
Piss filled destruction pretty much. And also don't let them roam in TOO BIG of a room. They will poop in remote spots if given too much freedom
Yeah. It's not nice, but it happens.
In the wild, it's very dangerous for living rats to have a dead rat nearby. The body attracts predators, which can attack the colony, and if the scavengers don't eat it it can rot and spread disease. So the living rats will often eat their dead comrade for protection.
It's pretty grim from a human perspective, but from a rat perspective, he's just trying to protect himself and his cage. Look at it as a ratty funeral rite.
(one of my rats is elderly, she didn't touch her sister at all when she died. I don't know how her two younger cagemates will react though. I'm dreading coming back from work and finding that she died hours ago and it looks like a crime scene)
I like going to the reptile show and picking up a few dozen just-weaned rat pups. I bring them home and put them in a plastic tub with a heat strip, a couple water bottles and some high quality lab block and nut treats.
Legitimate Question: Have any of you had to deal with edgy teens talking about feeding your rats to their snakes ( or any other meat eating animal).
Snaig and rat owner here. I've never talked about this around rat-only people. Around snaig-and-rat people, it's kind of a problem we all face, having a hard time feeding our snaigs when we love rats so much.
I think the maddest I've ever been in a situation like this was when some idiot guest in my house was looking inside my gecko terrarium and said "it would be cool if I could feed your gecko to my cat".
I told him it would be cool if I could load some .22 shotshell rounds and blast his cat a few times and watch it spaz out and slowly die.
Cat owners are much worse than snaig owners.
Yeah, I'm ophiophagus hannah guy.
I don't really get why cat owners are so shitty. They're consistently the only pet owners who believe their pet is 100% entitled to roam the earth while destroying things, shitting everywhere and killing native wildlife AND that their free-roaming cat should not be trapped or dispatched like any other common pest.
Introduction usually goes well if the new rat is young. If your two rats are getting along, they should also get a long with a nonthreatening (small) newcomer.
No but I have had people be very confused as to why I would pay the vet for fixing up my rats, because 'they're just rats'...
In my experience, snake owners who use them for feeding actually like rats, because they end up appreciating their intelligence and friendliness and often keep some around as pets themselves.
I've heard it's pretty common, but mercifully I've never had to face it. All but three of mine were euthed. Of the three that weren't, two died in my arms and only one I found dead in the cage. Her cagemate was just sitting beside her looking bewildered. I opened the door and the surviving girl threw herself at me and stuck to me like velcro and wouldn't let me put her down. The girl who died was just shy of two years old, sniffled occasionally, but otherwise was big and very healthy. I honestly had no idea it was coming. Stroke? Heart attack? I've no idea.
I've pretty much had jack of cat owners and snake owners. I meet someone new for the first time, we talk about animals, I say I've rats, and then I get the "Really? I've a cat/snake that'd love to eat them." I've literally lost count of how many times that's happened. These idiots are all genuinely convinced they're the first that's come up with it.
Thankfully I've never encountered this with my rats, just a gerbil. When my girl died her litter sister tried nudging her awake then tried cleaning her eyes open or something like that. It was pretty heartbreaking.
Are there really different breeds of rats?
I mean, I have large dogs and somebody told me that there are specialized breeds of rats. I looked at her like she was growing a second fucking head.
It's like "yeah, I let them eat butter out of my hand." I thought "bitch you are nuts.?"
I'll never let rats around but seriously, is this a thing? My dogs fucking eat mice like it's a game. The dumb bastards just come out of their little hide-holes and get their necks broken.
Pet rats aren't genetically different enough to warrant being called a separate species, but in terms of behaviour/breeding they're very different to wild rats. Hence being called 'fancy rats' to differentiate, also because they were originally kept as pets because of their colours.
But yeah, you can get different breeds of rats, just like you get different breeds of other pets. They have different ear placements (on top, on side), coat types (smooth, rex, hairless), and different markings. There's also tailess, but that's really cruel to breed.
Pic related, dumbo rex.
Also who the fuck feeds their rats butter.
Nearly all types of animals are vermin to someone somewhere, but 'fancy' rats are significantly different from wild sewer rats in their behavior. They're more friendly, less cautious, much lower level aggression, less likely to fight/bite, and they pose no health risk to humans.
The practice of keeping rats as pets originated in Europe around the 18th and 19th century during which rat baiting was a very popular sport. Some rat-catchers figured they could make money by breeding the friendlier more colorful rats, put bows on their offspring and sell them as pets to rich upper-class women.
You can get different breeds of fancy rats, but the difference is only superficial.
My current rats are albino (one white, one siamese). I've always found them to be quite ugly in spite of my love for rats but their personalities won me over. I was "just visiting" with them at the shelter and all they wanted to do was cuddle in my arms and groom my fingertips for me.
I want to start breeding mice here in a few months and am just looking for some general tips. I used to breed them when I was a teen so I could feed my snake some live food on occasion and really enjoyed doing it. Course, now that I'm older and have a good job, I want to invest a little more into the project and go about it more responsibly. I didn't take very good cre of those mice when I was a teen and I still feel bad about it.
So I want to breed them now for color and temperament, mostly aiming to breed some fancy pretty pet mice. I'm wondering on what size of a stock I should start with and good tips on reliable charts that I could keep to avoid inbreeding-or at least inbreeding to the point that its going to cause issues. Like maybe if I really want to try for a certain color, I'll do cousin to cousin. But I don't want to get too much closure than that.
Cage setup is going to be another thing I need to look into, along with proper bedding. I've heard a lot of people saying there is some shavings that can cause respiratory issues, but I'm not sure which one it is.
Another thing I'll have to figure out is pricing. I want to sell these mice on craigslist and possibly sell extra stock as snake food if no one wants them. I'm not fond of the idea of shipping out live mice as I think the shipping would be very stressful, so I'll have to look into some humane ways of killing and freezing them.
>rat's brother dies less than a week ago
>haven't been able to find available pet rats anywhere
>even our local pet stores don't sell them anymore
>may have to go out of town later this week
>previously mom has fed rats/let them out to play on bed when I'm away
>she works f/t, doesn't have time to sit in my room and play with them like I do (and they aren't her responsibility anyway)
What would be less stressful for a 1.5-2 year old rat in this situation:
1. Get stuffed in relatively cramped carrier/portable cage and thrust into completely new (but quiet) new environment, but able to come out and play with me
2. Several days of near-total isolation except at feeding times?
go for topical selamectin, usually sold under the brand name revolution. buy the puppy/kitten one and put one drop in the rats back, between their shoulders, watch them for 15 minutes so they don't lick/clean it off
it's a lot easier than ivermectin, really hard to overdose and better results imho
sounds like he probably had congenital megacolon, nothing you could do about it
I just got my first dumbo (pic related) in november and he's the most docile of the pack, he's also such a pussy. they are all teenagers and still figuring out their hierarchy and everytime anyone wants to fight him he just squeaks and runs
I know it may sound weird but I had one rat who started to bite me out of the blue too. so I started squeaking when he bit me and he stopped. not sure if it worked or just got lucky but yeah
if I were you I'd put him on baytril again, only at least 45 days now, maybe raise the dosage. It will work less and less with time but there's nothing you can do unless you can get your hands on some oxytetracycline or amoxilin. also this might help you regarding how much you can give without od'ing him http://www.rmca.org/Articles/dchart.htm
My rats keep getting respiratory infections. They've been on two courses of antibiotics and now they're sick again. I'm going to the vet tomorrow but I'm just frustrated that it keeps happening.
Maybe I should try changing their bedding? At the moment they're on aspen but I could try something else.
ok, so where I live pet rats are only now becoming a thing. my bucks are at 500-600g and 7 months, which is considered very big around here. how much do your bucks weight? is it true there are rats as heavy as 800g in the US?
my does weight only 250g but they were a rehome and their previous owner only fed them corn, so yeah, they are super small.
how long are you going to be away? I'd rather leave him in isolation for a couple of days unless you're gonna play with him for the most part of the day
Wednesday night to Sunday morning. I'd be able to have him out of the carrier with me for at least a few hours every day. I'm trying not to think about it in human terms, but I (an extrovert) would go fucking nanners alone in a silent room for that long.
I'd like to get a rat, but do you think that it'll be scared by my dog? I'd obviously keep him in a cage where my dog cant just get up and put his nose between the bars, but do you think that my dog barking or something would harm the rat?
This is true, except the part of eating their faces.
Beta otters, unable to release their sexual frustration often gather in large groups and take a single female otter which is then used in turns by the group. This ordeal can last days, nights and week since all otter go at her at once.
It is one of the few cases, along with with this strange "thing"