Critique thread, let's all tear each others work apart.
I'll go first. Pic related
The hole is way too big, it wouldn't be structurally sound what so ever. The tang would have to be really awkwardly placed as well based on that crossguard and handle location.
Actually no, let's back up a bit. Why is there a giant fucking hole in your knife?
Might be a bit OT, but it posting here beats bumping a dying thread. I have no idea how i should go about texturing this. I also have no idea how to use zBrush beyond masking and sculpting. How the fuck do i just add edge loops around the blade to fix the poly density? Are there any decent zBrush tuts for adding scratches and dents to metal, or am I better off relying on textures for surface scratches?
I imagine the hole serves the same purpose as a fuller on a sword. It changes the balance point and reduces weight, which also makes the blade feel more stiff relative to its weight, i.e, it becomes far more precise.
The beauty of 3D is that sometimes you can do whatever you want instead of pumping out soulless engineered game assets. I could make a perfectly proportional blade if I want, but I don't have to
I texture painted scratches In 3DS max and used normal maps generated in crazy bump. I unwrapped in 3DS max as well. Honestly I don't know shit about sculpting but I would say you should probably learn a traditional modeling software like Maya or max. As for your sword its pretty good. If you are good at sculpting I would suggest making some fancy designs to put on it. Good luck learning
It's modelled in Maya, i haven't done anything in zBrush besides split it into polyGroups. Thing is i want to create roughness maps etc. and i'm not sure if i should just mask that in on a texture, and create a bump map from textures, or if there is a nice way to do that in zBrush.
Dude give me tips. That looks amazing!
This is what I just made... Quick 45 minute project but needed something to show my skill level (wich is low, i know). Iv only been using blender for a month or so. Give me all the critique and tips you can. (I know the lazy unwrapping and texturing already)
I dont know if im competent enough to give you advice but pic rel is my scene and lighting setup
Main light is skylight with hdri map also used as enviroment/reflection
Map taken from here
http://www.hdrlabs.com/sibl/archive.html "old industrial hall"
And about your helmet
Model looks really solid but the main material could use more reflectivity and placement of those scratches does make sense
Thanks for the skylight tip! Been using emitting planes so far... The scratches dont make sense because the texture is just a 800x800 iron texture slabbed on an unwrapped uv. (hence the unwrap seams you can see)
Too much useless space in the middle, the cabinet doors are too low, you need some kind of legs in the cabinets, that one cabinet hanging on the wall makes no sense whatsoever, not to mention the handle is in a ridiculous place. I see what you're trying to achieve, but you need better sense of understanding interior design and utilizing space.
Protip: read some ikea booklets.
I'm no expert, but move that cabinet lower ffs.
1. it's uncomfy to reach that high/get a chair.
2.there's always space between it and ceiling, unless it's the kind that is applied to wall and ceiling. (it isn't)
needs a bit more light, I like the grain tho.
all the drawers and doors of the cabinets below are all the way to the floor, usually they are not. and the distance between doors/drawers and floor is receded or missing entirely(just legs).
pardon my grammar.
ah, I see now what bothers you. I left it a bit stretched because I do not have a wood end grain texture/save space to put other stuff on same map, I'll add a wood end grain on next edit.
Looks way too clean. Try playing with spec and roughness maps to get that nice look.
Also teach yourself some studio lighting to show off your models. The shadow take up more of the frame then what you're actually trying to show.
I love the ceiling trimming, but the windows are too blown out, also I think a darker green on the chairs might help a bit. Good job on the ornate detail on the cabinet and drawers, looks good.
I dont have any good renders from the side but it's for sure 3d
You're obviously a very skilled modeler, but your scene's composition could be better:
Everything in this scene directs my eye to the dickbutt, but yet the dickbutt is tiny and blocked by the chandelier.
If you want the table to be the center piece, you need to take that candle stick off the back piece of furniture, make that piece of furniture a little lower or the ceiling a little higher, bring the table a little closer to the foreground, and make it pop, either by changing the color or making the light cast on it more eye-catching.
If you want a more rigorous definition of what I'm talking about, consider watching this video.
Can't wait to see the final product
I think it's supposed to be a futon, which can be rather thin when fully stretched out (compared to a box spring and mattress at any rate), and I'm guessing it's been made to specifications matching a real world object, but because we don't have anything to tell us where the rim or edge of it is, our eye becomes confused and the thickness of it becomes unclear.
Git gud you faggot, if you're going to go full sexual deviant, go all the way
I have no idea why no one has mentioned the weird ass placement of the sink, which should be in front of the window.
Kitchens aren't just cobbled together willy nilly either, the important elements of a good kitchen, (sink, workspace, oven/stove) should be set in a triangle formation with nothing along that path that needs a lot of access while someone is cooking.
Nice lighting so far!
Steel doesn't look like that, unless it's got serious pitting, in which case you'd have a lot of patina and rust.
Find some pictures of old knives and tools (there are a million pictures of old hand planes around) and look at the scratch patterns in the metal.
Look up a video or two that show how barrels are made. Use the word "cooper" in your search.
Your staves are too wide - there should be a lot more of them. I have no idea what your loops are supposed to be made of, but they're generally steel or wrought iron rings. Your staves should also not curve along the width. Cut down the bump - staves aren't bevelled on the edges, and when wood ages it takes on a very different pattern than what you have.
Look up what endgrain looks like - actually, all you motherfuckers look up what endgrain looks right, because I see this shit all the time around here. If you don't like showing endgrain, learn what joinery is.
Obviously not finished yet, but what next?
Too low res.
Not enough detail.
Teeth too uniform.
Mouth too dry.
Knees too sharp.
Noise pattern on neck doesn't look like scales.
Dinosaurs aren't real.
Jesus buried the fake fossils.
Open the door
Get on the floor
everybody walk the dinosaur
I looked at my kingdom
I was finally there
To sit on my throne as the prince of bel-air
How can I make this look better? it's supposed to be a necklace for a character.
I agree with the other. That is really cute, actually. I would like to see a bigger scene in the same style, though.
The ceiling looks flat, it would be nice with a normal or bump map.
You need better normals, and better lighting. Also, if you plan to do a whole creature, I suggest starting with the full body, not just the head.
It would help to see the character. As it stands, the model looks like a hard thing (ceramic?), which would be difficult to slip over a normal head. If it is wide enough, it would be an akward thing to wear around the neck.
If you want it to look softer, perhaps make it less even in shape.and less glossy (lik a rubber bracelet). The clip also would need to change, perhaps made out of a different material.
I'm not experienced with displacement maps but in my experience real geometry always looks better than maps. In real life those would be separate rivets. What you could do is make one, unwrap it, and then duplicate it so you only have to unwrap one. Then you can duplicate the texture in Photoshop and paint some variation on it. They are very small so they shouldn't need a lot.
>I'm not experienced with displacement maps but in my experience real geometry always looks better than maps
No fucking shit Sherlock. That's why it's more expensive by magnitudes. Nobody creates a map because it's better than modelling it.
I'm not an artist, but the thing that makes his render look so good in my opinion is the reflection. It makes it look like a photograph taken in an actual room, whereas if there was no reflection but rather just a shine then it would look more artificial. Just a thought.
Displacement maps are a superior technology to geometry when it comes to detail.
Remember: one pixel of detail can be equal to one tri or one quad.
A 2K displacement map can provide detail up to 4 million polygons.
While with geometry you're stuck with whatever the artist gives you.
Tell me: in 2030, which game aged better?
A 2015 game that uses high poly meshes (1+ million per character)
Or a 2015 game that uses lower poly meshes (~1 million per character) and uses displacement maps (depends on map resolution)
If you think that the static mesh aged better than the mesh with dynamic tessellation, then you've got another thing coming.
High poly LODs is an increasingly depreciated technology that has existed for the past decades, whereas tessellation and displacement maps is a new technology that is rapidly taking the place of LODs.
You can't directly compare LODs vs tessellation (in real games), and frankly setting up both in a game engine as an experiment would be an endeavor not worth doing.
They're obviously not computationally expensive enough to warrant doing them.
Are you implying that tessellation completely subdivides a model 100% of the time, or do you not realize that tessellation implies that the tri count of a model changes dynamically depending on the viewing distance from the camera?
>Are you implying that tessellation completely subdivides a model 100% of the time, or do you not realize that tessellation implies that the tri count of a model changes dynamically depending on the viewing distance from the camera?
Are YOU implying that high density meshes don't have LODS?
You end up with high density maps regardless. Besides to create a displacement map for tesselation you basically need to high poly model it anyway. The difference between the two technologies is negligible.
You're missing the point entirely.
Tesselation is a superior technology, because simply having higher detailed geometry--and then switching between lower and higher detailed geometry--results in the popping phenomenon, and is jarring to the player.
Tessellation is superior again, because it requires less work. For LOD, you would have to decimate the mesh several times, whereas with Tessellation you could just have one mesh and a displacement map.
Simply jamming a high poly model in a game is also stupid because you're limited by processing constraints in the current generation of hardware, and having more LODs just increases disk space requirements.
Not only this, but because you don't necessarily have to worry about current or next-gen, by using larger resolution displacement maps, the detail present scales by that much.
Asked in a yellow board but got no responses, I hope it's ok to post this here.
I'm trying to make a 3D model from 2D sketches by an artist that uses very exaggerated proportions. While ridiculous but fitting in their original form, I think they look all over the place in 3D.
I'd like to understand why. is it because these kinds of proportions look silly when given volume, or is it because I didn't do it properly? If it's the later, how can I improve it?
john persons always makes them extra extra curvy. I don't think the model is your problem, I think the shader is. I've dealt with this before, once you get a similar shader going on, it will look like the comics.
I can make a shader that looks like that in Unity tho. with cartoon shading and black outlines and everything
nice modeling skillz, i agree with anon about getting a toon style shader on those sloots, i think you could tone down the tits and ass a bit , i think it would help, more so the tits, just scale them down 10-15% . solid work tho either way, not my cup of tea , but i'll give credit where credit is due, the stomach on the whooty girl looks great, i think her ass is too high up tho,a little too bubble butt
Thanks. I smoothed it a bit and applied an outline and cel shader and it helps a bit... but still, for some reason it grosses me out from certain angles. I'll keep working on it for some time and scratch it if I can't get it to work.
The artist is The Pit. John Persons is his commissioner.
either that sword is a double hander or the grip is quite thing.
bit shiny for wood, eh? the proportions are right, as barrels can in all shapes and sizes. What you have would hold about a gallon
all my N64 kills are coming back to me. I love it.
i likes it
put a trash can in the left, lower than cabinet and give it a twin.
it's on part with real gameplay screen shots, but maybe do a more high res texture.
Mine is an 1880s elephant gun. I'm new to all this, so I'm in no real place to judge anyone.
is there a good techique to make blades? and i mean shader
i use mix shader with gloss and diffuse but i can't find an actual texture to go well that goes well with blades
Wrought iron has grain to it, and cast iron has a texture to it, but steel generally doesn't, if it's polished.
The sharpening process does create a grainlike texture perpendicular to the bevel (i.e. the part where you'd rub the whetstone) and a grinder will also produce a similar effect parallel to the bevel, There will be scratches in the steel, and generally a patina.
I'd advise looking up old tools - especially ones that are well taken care of, like metal hand planes. They'll give you a good idea of what patina looks like.
As far as the shader goes, I've had good luck using various maps - one for the patina, one for grain, one for pitting - and leaving everything else almost entirely gloss. Dunno how you'd translate that to game engines, if that's your goal.
i guess its something that is really hard to pull off, making some part of the steel reflect more light and everything, with realistic grind marks
iv seen really good 3d artists just leave their weapons untextured
Literal first attempt making something 3D.
No idea how to texture something.
It's a Gladius.
made this with blender and gimp, based on the ithaca
think i should add a belt to juice it up
First for me to even think that kitchen is real, we need more beer bottles.... i'm talking everywhere. You have so much flat top space to put your empties.
Then I also have a problem with the sink... Why do you not have tons of dirty dishes in there?
And I dont see one rat trap..... because getting a "little" drunk on a sunday and you decide to go to the grocery store, and end up buying more beer than food, you will end up never putting that 2 pounds of ground chuck in the fridge, even though you made sure that beer did. And now you have a rat that terrorises you every night.
and don't get me started about the fruit flies....
This how every kitchen is right?
kind of late advice, but make the base cabinets 2'-10" tall, with about 1'-10" from the countertop of the base cabinet to the lower portion of the upper cabinets. Make sure the handles of the upper cabinets are in the lower half for accessibility.
Typical ceiling height should be at 8'-0" above finish floor. And normally, you would provide a double door sink cabinet like the module right next to your sink cabinet. Source, Architectural Designer.
sick as fuck bruh, maybe the rounds are a bit long though
some car ive been working on, ill rig it and animate soon
nice model! but some guitar anatomy. the tuning pegs don't pull on the wood like that they're fitted into a metal tube that (google it). if you want some really nice looking tuners pegs look up Grover tuners. the strings are definitely on the high side and would be an absolute bitch to play. Look up guitar string action on Youtube if you want to get some numbers. the 4 thickest strings are would. also look up eg. D'Addario string for the proper string gauges. Typical on acoustic would be 0.3, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, 1.0, 1.3 in mm. I rounded the numbers. Ok I don't feel like writing any more right now.
the strings sit inside grooves in the nut, not just on top of the nut.
strings are wound, not solid metal rods.
the heel of the neck seems to jut out a bit far and should be slightly more beveled towards the body.
the headstock should smoothly meet the neck on the back of the neck and headstock.
bridge is floating above the body.
the tuning pegs need to have washers around them as real tuning pegs sit inside those washers to prevent pressure cracks in the wood.
the frets need beveling on the ends as a straight cut fret would destroy a person's fingers.
frets need a small amount of metal that are inside the fretboard as that's what holds them in place.
bridge should not be glossy.
body should match gloss of neck.
in your first image i can see where the seam was marked for the uv around the body.
this seam should be at the very bottom end of the body. (the end behind the bridge) since that's where the real pieces are glued together.
string height (action) is too high.
the strings on a classical guitar are nylon, not steel.
however, if you want it to be a steel string you must bow the fretboard out a slight bit as flat radius fretboards are strictly classical nylon string.
nylon string bridges are different as well so it might be easier to just round the radius of the fretboard.
white binding on the body needs to be on the top and back of the body as much as the sides.
this is a a great job even with those flaws as all the shapes are pretty damn accurate.
source: i've played guitar for 18 years.
First of all, thanx! for being constructive.
Second, I am kind of a guitarist and have quite a few guitars, so I know how they look.
The truth is, I just went for it modelling-wise and invested some more time in rendering.
(Its modelled on one of my guitars, but only by eyesight.) The logo on the headstock is actually
photographed and shopped into the shader.
If you look at the headstock, you'll see the woodgrain looks like it fans out.
You're going to get a bit of distortion in the grain pattern just because the headstock leans back a bit, but it won't look quite like that. You'll either get cathedral patterns (from a flatsawn board) or the grain will start going toward one side of the headstock or another (if it's from a quartersawn board).
I doubt most people will notice, but a woodworker will.
frequent /k/ poster here. I can see most of what is kind of an Ithaca m37 in a riot configuration. It looks like you used pic related as a reference. Because it's inspired by the Ithaca, all I can see is what looks like a Khyber pass lookalike. I would say start out with making the corners on the receiver not as severe, and then work on the barrel profile. the barrel narrows down til about halfway and then stays straight. Take my critique with a grain of salt if you please, I just like seeing gun models done justice.
>and then work on the barrel profile. the barrel narrows down til about halfway and then stays straight.
it does, i narrowed it
but the rest is right, i didn't use edge split on the right places
The same model after being cackhandedly painted in 3DCoat
Please be gentle. The only CAD software I've used is Inventor, and I'm still new to it.
What do you think? Can't go wrong with low poly...
Well admittedly I've seen some cringe worthy low poly art.
Made in blender cycles.
Finished work from a few months ago. I made the low poly cat too. Critiques?
Haven't done much game asset creation, but I've started to try it out. Baking clean normal maps is a pain in the butt, and mine look terrible close up. But what do you think?
Gotta love pbr, amirite?
it doesn't look very ergonomic, like, it would be difficult to get a good cheekweld or keep the stock where you want it on your shoulder. assitionally, the lack of a triggerguard sticks out as it is rather unsafe. lastly, what i presume are the sights aren't lined up.
Did this model in like two hours, using information I took from the place. It became a 100k USD remodeling project that I got hired for. And you all could do the same if you weren't so worried about your ugly as fuck characters and "muh zbrush scoolpt". I do this for a living btw.
how the hell did that piece of shit take you 2 hours?
looks like 30 minutes of work, including the render.
100k usd remodeling project that you had to buy the supplies for. walk away with 75k, pay for the machines you rented. now you have 60k. oh wait you have to pay all of the workers. you are probably in a contracting business, so you had to split most of it with the owner and only took home a small fraction. im guessing you are also implying you get that type of job all the time.
The grass is way too realistic. Look at your trees, and notice how their style completely differs from the style of the grass.
The buildings and the trees match styles, but that guy standing on top of that building is way too realistic. Also, the clouds and smoke are too realistic, while the volcano looks really cartoony.
If you're going with a completely cartoony look:
Change the grass.
Change the smoke & cloud styles
Brighten up the overall color
Gracias, me da gusto que te haya gustado. Y el amigazo de abajo, pues... francamente no me molesta. Buen día, buen hombre.
You are gloriously correct, my amigo. It's two noise patterns haha.
It took me 2 hours, mate, but I would like to see you do the whole thing in 30 minutes, so I can learn. As for the money, it's actually around 121k, which already has an over-price of 28%, considering earnings and indirects. Actually, it's way cheaper, since I work as a construction manager for a middle sized company and I can decrease the price of materials considerably, by just using name of the company I work for. And even cheaper, since I'm going to sub-contract the whole work. I'm probably going to take around 45% of the 121k by around February 2016, and that's going to the stock market, m8. Worry not.
so far ive made 0, my models are shit anyway
I can make way more, I have three business formulas for this industry (and I live in a third world country).
Being a civil engineer and a construction technician is a big advantage because I can do all the work, but if someone with no background in construction partners with an architect, both can still make very good earnings.
I don't know how it is in the gaming industry, but this board is full of people trying to get into it and I think there's no need for suffering when archviz is so fertile. For me, this is just a hobby and I don't even do any marketing, people just looks at my renders and they decide to hire me.
Practicing zbrush, tell me whats wrong and what I should work on to get my anatomy up to scratch
Just my 2 cents
serratus anterior should conform to the ribs more.
2. make a collar bone and fix the oversized breast muscles.
3. give the elbow more room and possibly longer underarm
4. knees obvioiusly
5. give him proportional feet.
6. abdominal muscles
i just want to share this, im making a game in blender/unity and im trying to get proportions perfect above anything else. theres so much work that needs to be done, and i dont care about the render quality yet, the textures are mostly for learning and placeholders, so dont hurt yourself if you want to critique anything. its a gif because i dont want to spend time learning how to compress the size
Nothing special, pls no hate. I just started with blender two days ago.
Made myself a desktop background.
What do you guys think?
lol czech people have a racial +3 to 3d graphics i fucking swear
that being said it's by no means good, just better than most of this thread, if you wanna get better you should practice making photoreal models of random shit you've got lying around before you try inventing things. It's good that you textured your shit but it looks like the dirt from a bathroom wall, not the kind you'd find on a grenade, also the barcode would probably look way better if it was just painted on rather than embossed
Add bump maps, fix your UV seams, add light portals for faster interior renders, change the lens setting on the camera, but most importantly:
YOU'VE GOT TO MOVE THESE COLOR TVs, YOU'VE GOTTA MOVE THESE REFRIGERATORS, THAT'S THE WAY YOU DO IT.
>i didn't use edge split on the right places
Don't use edge split (if you literally mean the edge split modifier),instead do this:
- enable auto-smooth checkbox in the Object Properties panel
-turn on Smooth Shading
-then in Edit Mode manually select edges and use Mark Sharp to make them sharp
Additionally you can use Crease (Shift E) to control sharpness with subdivision surface modifier.
The problem with Edge Split is that it adds really weird extra geometry, plus other software uses Smoothing Groups to achieve the same effect, so if you ever want to import it into a game engine or something, Edge Split is going to cause all kinds of problems
Here, watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=my5B2eejnaY
close enough, all of eastern europe really, but yeah keep practicing and pay attention to the real world, and don't be tempted to use bump maps etc where you don't need them just because you can
Started about a month ago, I was told this was good to start with because it involves most of the popular techniques and use of tools on a small scale. Now I just need to learn how to texture. I'm torn between Substance Painter and the recently released Quixel Suite 2.
first literal time doing something in 3D
not a specific pistol, desu used some inspo from a 1911 and a beretta and some other pistols which can't remember.
I'll try to animate it some day. I hope mental ray materials don't flicker in motion.
I understand you want to keep the hole but can you at least make it thicker? Feels like i can snap off that small bit like a twig.
Am I looking in the right place ? It's not in the shape node is it ?
For now, the school's computers have 2015. I think it changes every two years, so the next one we'll have is 2017.
Setup for render above, learning to use vray for the first time. I think my main problem is setting up good lighting for the scene, but I also cannot seem to get a good texture map on the building itself. Any recommendations or points towards tutorials woul dbe appreciated.
Move the wall cabinet lower or redesign it so its taller in size.
A lot of people have a fair bit of space between the top of the cabinet and ceiling so they can place objects ontop of the cabinet.
I havent used a bumpmap in maybe 20 years. i will use a predural bump here and there but never an image bump.
look me up im simple to find. im everywhere i have been modelling since 1991. I was doing this stuff way back when babylon 5 was made even sold them a few models for the show. heres an oldie
through my tag on youtube in my videos you can get my name then you can open a few ancient websites amazingly still up and see crap i made in the early 1990s here is one of the last models i used bumpmaps on and you will see why
I gave modelling faces a try.
I know how to subdiv/crease/edgeloop model (I'm the BB8 and hover bike guy) but to me it felt horribly non-intuitive to do so for complex facial shapes.
I'm tempted to just send it to mudbox and fine tune it there on my tablet. Or is there something about subdiv/crease/edgeloops modelling that I am missing ?
Also, please critique (I made the one on the right, one on the left is a rip from Overwatch)
Honest to god, I have no idea what I am doing. Just barely started learning and just trying my hand at simple stuff. Any comments on how to make this less terrible? Assume that I am total newcomer.
just gonna ask here:
I'm still relatively new to modeling, and I'm creating a scene to experiment with texturing. Is it 'ok' to mix normal maps and displacement maps within one scene? is this generally accepted and carried out? Just cause they look quite different etc. I feel silly asking cause I'm sure its ite, but lemme know
one of my first attempt with substance, can't really find a good way to pose this because of the bloom
The one on the left is a ripped model from Overwatch that I used to make 2D front/side reference planes. When I smooth mine it gives pic related, with pinching and facial features that collapse. I'm sure I could get it to work with a lot of tweaking, but it doesn't feel intuitive how edgeloops will retain the shape to me. Is there any reason not to just sculpt from there ?
Thanks mate. I want to rig professionally, so I figured I have to get anatomy under control.
I followed this guy's tutorial, and I believe I didn't skip any topology step. Is he legit ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LpQd7WcYmY
It's a dxripper rip so it's all tris since it comes straight from the gpu's Vram
She's a lot cuter without that set of splinter-cell goggles on her head.
It's supposed to be a lightsaber, made it in zbrush, one the first things i have done, what do you guys think?
shadows should be softer
normal/bumb on the walls would be nice
grass looks like a carpet
what render is this? you should use directional light
I started about 3 years ago. I'm doing it on and off, sometimes im not touching 3d for weeks.
It's suppose to be fun so im not forcing it.
Okay have updated a few things
Was a clipping issue with the mesh, fixed now.
Have updated the grass a bit but could defintely use some advice on how to make it better. Using 2016 vray in 3ds max.
As you can see Ive changed the diffuse colour of the building. For the life of me I cant seem to apply a proper texture onto this. Whatever material I try to add onto this just changes the diffuse colour, can add the materials on things like the white brick wall and they will render properly. But for instance if I applied the white brick material to the building it would just render as smooth and white. Am I making any sense?
you can apply a few maps to a material, you either connect an image or use a color.
if you don't connect an image to the material it will stay at RGB diffuse color
you need to connect a normal map to the material or displacement node, im talking in cycles terms and im sure 3ds has those
changed the bump map to displacement but didnt really do anything sadly, could someone point me to a good tutorial for doing uv mapping for the first time
Well that's a part of my first model started some time ago. Currently im making him a chest. The head is incomplete cause i have no idea what to put in it and will fill it at the later stages of the project. Ill post the rest of what i have in a sec.
Here is the chest, currently its only the exterior, im still looking for a way that will allow me to make holes that i can scale while still keeping the surface nice and round, if anyone dares to help a newb id be glad.
M1911 I'm working on. End goal is game ready asset but I'm stuck on normal creation. Looks fine in substance but looks like fucking garbage in UE4. Spent days on this shit FUCK
turn down the specularity on the brown material to about 10% and the reflection glossiness to about 0.2. use an hdri environment to light the scene so that the shadows aren't completely black. also houses aren't usually completely made of one material or one color, make the walls more interesting by adding wood planks somewhere for example. search "modern house" on google for inspiration
Something for a personal animated short.
It's sitting at 770k faces, is that reasonable ?
This is my firts model done today, 2 hours ago
Guess what it is...
- Struggling with the horse equipment. Am I missing any knowledge in order to sculpt manmade objects?
- How do you properly use the move tool? I can't find the logic between it transforming my subtool and just moving it.
I'll post the reference too...
I dunno, even with endless polys, I have no idea how to go about say the leather body harnas.
Sculpting isn't optimal to actually create the mesh, unless you are making very blobby/organic stuff and retopo all the time.
Actually model it then sculpt it. Altough I'm not sure there's much to sculpt on a leather harness.
I can already see your future, it will be filled with success all because of this faggot and his fetishes.
Seeing as I've just gotten back into Star Wars, I really fuckinh like it, good job. I eould get rid of the glow of the outer rim of the top part because it doesn't look that good, but other than that it's a banger.
r8 me, i modeled and animated on blender, and made the particles in unity.
Further update on this piece, finally added in a better texture to the building and added some tress.
Any advice is still welcome but defintely looking focus on making the lighting better and also sortign the glass out as I have at some point ruined to where you ether cant see it as with the balcony or with the windows where it doesnt reflect properly anymore.
i'll take it.
ok, i need help with something, i'm not sure how i should UV this character.
desu there's a lot here i've never done before, like cloth and different materials.
i want to make a skinned mesh emitter out of the beard/cape/skirt in unity, to give it a look of clouds, what i'm struggling with is the uv.
I'm usually the kind of guy who encourages us to push tech (and therefore graphics) forward, and usually hate 8-bit looking stuff. But I actually like this. And I would love to see it used in a VR application.
They're not really full drawers. Sometimes those are little spaces for small items like sponges etc. in others like a retro kitchen they were just on for aesthetics.
So, i made this
Its a scene from Deliver Hope trailer to halo:reach, but MFDD (the bomb) was based more on concept from Isaac Hannaford than actual trailer.
How is it?
So ive changed to what i think is a better angle.
An issue has arisen that the glass is no longer reflecting any light after the building, should i put light points inside the building in order to fix it?
Also changed the grass a ssuggested previously and messed with the material a bit.
As always any suggestions are welcomed, you guys have been super helpful so far