/SMG/ Scale Model General

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First for cringe

>>6491713
I think that looks good

>>6491713
nothing to cringe about. just too clean imo.

I made this post before I updated the last thread and saw a new one.

I did Airfix as a kid and want to pick up a kit. Iv'e had no experience with this for years. I think based on seeing this: >>6471024 and browsing a couple links in the OP I'm interested in either (semi) modern cars or landmarks.

Can anyone recommend a common scale that I'll be able to find models of both in, or will that not be possible?

Also a good starter kit?

>>6491736
For cars you want to look for 1/24 as your scale.

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>>6490445
omg, it's called fading, you mong.

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>>6491736
>Can anyone recommend a common scale that I'll be able to find models of both in
That'll be hard, landmarks tend to be a whole lot bigger than cars.

>>6491713
Just unremarkable.

>>6491768
That looks good. It also looks absolutey nothing like the purple piece of shit OP posted

>>6491768
You would have a point if the fading lined up with the panels, which it doesn't.

>>6491780
What suggests he's OP of this or the previous thread?

>>6491726
Applying decals on matt paint is the only cringe I see

>>6491781
>checkerboard shading
>current year

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Did the motor bay panel in red primer as some other anon last thread said yes. Tried to be as random as possible following the idea that they used parts of unfinished hull and other tanks in repairs. Did some light modulation but the mr surfacer primer is chipping with the masking so it's full of peeled parts, I was pining to do more modulation on the red primer as I'm lazy to do it with oils later so I guess it doesn't matter but still

Also who did OP image last thread? I didn't see it

>>6491736
1/24 or 1/25 scale is the most common for cars, though there are 1/32 scale. A good car kit to start is a level 2 Revell kit. Glue, paint, and assembly required. Btw that's the Revell level 2 snaptite I did. Revell kits are straight forward and not as confusing as AMT subjects, I find.

>>6491787
I mean the OP of the purple plane. You know what I meant you pedantic fuck

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The forgotten Z is done.

Looking to get my first cheap airbrush kit, don't have any paints that can be used so I'm wondering which brand to get.

How much does Vallejo model air need to be thinned in order to be used in an airbrush, or is it ready to be used out of the bottle (and can just be thinned more for a better finish)?

And if that's the case, will it be too thin to be manually applied with a regular brush? I'd rather stick to a single brand of paint just for the sake of space, since I live in a bedsit right now and space is extremely limited.

Also, with this being my first airbrush, I'm wondering what accessories I'm going to need, other than the paint, ofcourse. Will one of those cleaning kits with the cleaning pot and a few scrubbing brushes, along with a bottle of airbrush cleaner be enough? I've heard you can also use airbrush cleaner as a thinner, although I'm not sure how accurate that is.

>>6491796
Newb here, what's the problem with that? The shiny surface of the decal not matching that of the rest of the plane?

What's the solution, a clearcoat afterwards?

>>6492045
When putting a small membrane on something that you want to have looking like part of the surface, it helps to have a smooth, flat surface for it to sit on. Matte paint, if you grab microscope, is rough and pebbly, so the decal can end up sitting on the peaks, stand out more, and possibly even turn silver due to air or voids underneath.

Varnishing on top of decals is something you'll do pretty much always, to help blend the decal in and to protect it.

>>6491968
That was fast. I think it could use a lot more work honestly. After all that work you spent adding stuff the paint job is lackluster. It just looks plain. I'd add more rust, grass growing out of the hood, holes, etc

>>6492040
Just use whatever thinner you normally would to clean out the airbrush. You don't need anything else.

>>6491968
Could use some dirt under the tires and less shine on the blow off valves.
Also not a fan of the plain grey front cluster grill/headlights,

>>6492163
>camaro
>blow off valves

>>6492147
>>6492163
Thanks for the thoughts, I just wanted it to look dusty, not a whole lot of rust on the car besides the side pipes, as the exhaust always rusts. Any tips for making it dusty? The grille is chrome, but just dusted up a bit.

>>6492167
Well, they are velocity stacks but I knew what he meant.

>>6492169
Some matte clear coat to take off the shine?
maybe air brush some light grey very lightly.
I don't know I'm not very experienced

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>>6492172
I have some dullcoat, I could try that. Tamiya smoke is light, I could try that. I guess I got excited and over looked some things. I could add holes to spots where a logo or emblem might be missing, and add some surface rust I guess. I just want it to look like a faded old car.

>>6492173
Have the rims and front grille been painted? Both look like the regular grey styrofoam plastic. Speaking of rims, they look a bit rough around the edges, as if they haven't had all the sprue taken off. Only fault I can see.

The paintjob looks great, especially the scrapes.

>>6492173
The front grill really jumps out, it almost looks unpainted.

>>6492174
The rims have been primered, airbrushed silver, then sprayed over with tan/dirt color. Grille was chrome plated in the kit, I black washed it and shot it with some dark brown and then tan/dirt color. Maybe I should remove the paint and just do a wash of tan over it?

>>6492175
See>>6492182

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>>6492185
>>6492182
I googled barn finds and found a bunch of refs and in all of them you could always see the chrome on the grill shining trough the dust

>>6492195
Could it just be the lighting in the photo?
I popped it out and it's got some shine to it still. I wonder if I dry brush on something.

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>>6492204

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>>6492204
If you google barn finds you can get a shitload of reference photos. In all the ones I can find, you can always see the chrome.

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I ran the grille over with a cotton swab, seemed to help bring back some of that shine but keep it dirty looking. Im gonna try the other suggestions as well. Thanks guys.

>>6492224
Looks much better already

>>6492276
You're right, it does! I'm done doing weathered models for now, it's on to glossy shiny ones.

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>Trumpeter 1/35 Hotchkiss H.38 in Girls und Panzer universe, working on crew

Decided to give it a spritz of paint to check for fixes. More putty to be added. Dust and general crap continues to be a pain (I spray outdoors)

>>6492329
I like GuP and the idea of crafting your own crew but all your pictures so far have been nightmare fuel.
I hope the end result will be good though.

>>6492364
Thanks, I hope it turns out good too. I admit the WIP pictures aren't pretty to look at but that's the price of looking behind the curtain. Just try not to imagine it at the foot of your bed when you sleep.. :B

Anyway, I'm guessing there's a lack of interest in the process but I'm open to both questions and constructive crit if anyone has any.

Does anyone use artist acrylics in the tubes in their airbrushes? Any reason why I couldn't?

Do you guys typically prime/paint photoetch on the fret? Looking at doing a 350 ship build but have limited PE experience

>>6492495
You could. It wouldn't be a good idea, since the pigment density on most artist acrylics is shit- they're really not meant to be thinned to airbrushable consistency. There are some artist paint lines meant for airbrushing (like golden acrylics in dropper bottles) but then you're paying just as much as you would be for model paints anyway.

You would have better luck handbrushing them, but again they thin like shit, so it's a bad idea unless you're only doing little details with them.

Fucking leddit stealing my already stolen ideas

>>6492535
I dont know about on the fret, but i know experienced ship builders paint their railings before putting them on the ship.
And when rigging ships with cables, you work from the center outward.
That is 100% of all i know about ships kits

>>6492495
tried it, the pigments just drop to the bottom and clog the airbrush.

>>6491841
ops just a mong who used a random image.

>>6491841
Last thread was some guy posting a dragon sherman. Pretty decent imo

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>>6485041
Nah it's mine. I mentioned earlier I'm still pretty new to this so >>6485064's comments are totally fair. More things to improve in the next one!

>>6492329
>>6492473
Doing sculpt and resin figs is a pain as you need to be checking several times the surface is good, but better now than when you start for real to paint. I would recommend grey tho as gives better insight on error imo. I use tamiya liquid primer (http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87096surface/index.htm) applied with the tamiya extra thin cement so it creates a mix that fills gaps and its pretty useful for small gaps in weird areas and scratches. Not hard to use but practice a bit (and use an old near empty bottle of cement too)
>Anyway, I'm guessing there's a lack of interest in the process but I'm open to both questions and constructive crit if anyone has any.
I'm quite interested in the whole process, it's interesting but as always in wip pics a lot of times there's not much to say.
I'm going the discerning gentleman route and converting the king tiger to one from GuP but I need decals, on one hand I could order some from modelkasten (division azul school so they are pretty rare) that a guy found for me or print them myself, how was the process of doing the decals of your H38?
>>6492838
>da KKK took mah baby away
What did they stole from you lad?
>>6493086
>>6493106
>>6493107
I prefer having stuff from anons like the sherman or whatever in the OP rather than random model images, I think there was a finished ship that could been OP.

>>6493107
Sorry man, I was the accuser. Your build is flawess imo

>>6493143
And this was the pro build

https://www.agapemodels.com/2011/05/09/readers-gallery-david-willis-135-dragon-m4-sherman/#jp-carousel-5214

>>6491713
10/10

>>6493179
>Bare plastic
>no wash

At best its 4/10

are vallejo acrylics good for handbrushing?
they have a really neat color palette and found a store near me that stocks them

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>>6493256
Yea. In my opinion theyre the best for handbrushing.

Pic related, this face was handbrushed.

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1: Start spraying the sail's with Tamiya white, broken with a touch of buff.
2: Run out of white.
3: Every hobby store in town is all out of tamiya white. Flat, gloss, doesn't matter, it doesn't exist.

Hey, that racing white in a can looks kinda ok for sails. Let's try that.

4: Spray on a bit, orange peels to absolute hell. This shit has a surface tension you could probably put to good sue in bullet proof vests.
5: So make it a wet coat.
6: Let it dry for a few minutes, it turns into this.

So, yeah, the sails here are gonna look like shit I suspect. Because God Almighty has made up his mind, and He will clearly stop at absolutely nothing to make it so. Somehow I'll get them somewhat white, but even getting that far is probably going to lay four circles of hell and two layers of heaven in ruin.

>>6493323
After all that work you need to strip that shit

>>6493300
Looks great

>>6493323
jesus murphy, i don't know what you're doing...and i don't really even have any paint experience–but couldn't you just use dish detergent to degrease that shit first, or maybe some harsh alcohol for a quick bath, followed by a good rinsing. After that even something simple/cheap like Krylon would work.

>>6493367
Only that sail that reacted quite that way, so I guess I'll get to work on it tomorrow getting it off.

>>6493378
Well, when I switched over from my broken white to racing white, I of course wanted to hit the already painted areas with a quick bit of racing white too, so everything would look the same. And what you see there was the first attempt at that, there's primer and three layers of Tamiya X-2 gloss white between the racing white and the plastic.

>>6493405
solid

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Road wheels done with need of some minor touch ups. I'm gonna weather the lower hull and finish the track parts before moving on to the upper parts while I wait the decal materiel
>>6493323
>Jeethus cwithe.jpg.exe
I don't know how vacuform(?) plastic handles alcohol but that needs to be striped bare, cleaned and done again. Did you prime that?

>>6493405
Looks much better now

How many clear coats should I apply before attempting a panel line oil wash? I'm deathly afraid of fucking up my paint job

>>6493487
>>6493416
>Looks much better now
Yeah, it looks much better on the background covered with something

>>6493489

I do like two medium heavy coats and so far no issues. Might depend on the kind of clear coat though.

>>6493492
I can hide my mistakes!
>>6493487
>>6493416
Thanks guys.

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>>6493475
Before

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>>6493551
After. This will be the most battered part because
>Late war german engines and supplies
And even if it no more for "real war" I like fitting the idea of using scavenged parts in rare tanks

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>>6493556
And how it looks on the hull. Looks pretty out of place desu but fits the purpose I guess

>>6493475
>Did you prime that?

Primer and three layers of regular Tamiya paint airbrushed on before the spray can got involved.

>>6493558
the hull needs a bit of edge wear

>>6493564
That's weird as fuck, perhaps not shaken enough or the coat was too thick or the under layers weren't dry enough. It would be strange (and extremely unlucky desu) to get a defective can. Well, whatever, Have you though on a stripping method?
>>6493568
Hold up anon I haven started yet with the hull, just varnished it. I'm planing a filter(s), wash in maybe two tones and very light chipping with lighter base color and very little deep chips. Probably for the wear and chipping I will use gun metal pigments mixed with others to give recent looking wear but I need to think about it. From there I need to think what to do in the environmental weathering, probably mud and wet like a rainy day, or snow...

>>6493588
I'll probably just start with the booze and move on to sterner stuff until something happens.

>>6493323
PRIMER
R
I
M
E
R

>>6493558
>>6493475
Looking brilliant.

>>6493253

>Can't tell bare plastic from painted plastic.

You are a 4/10.

>>6493323

Holy shit. Did you use Tamiya Racing White LACQUER on top of Tamiya White Acrylic? If not what brand of paint did you use?

Did you degrease that shit?

Did you put the can into warm water before using it?

>>6491713
Looks like a WIP.
I would say fix the black overpaint in the nose, gloss coat everything and then panel line, it would look rock solid.

>>6493790
Its totally bare plastic and ill stand by that until the poster proves me wrong

>>6493897
At first I thought it was bare plastic as well, but it is too matte for that. Take a look at how the decals shine in contrast with the paint around it, you can even see the grainy matt paint texture on the decals since anon used micro set on them.

>>6493143
>>6493151
All good man,no apology needed. That is actually remarkably similar.

>>6493556
Looks great man

>>6493122
Ya, I thin my putty with either acetone or Model Master's Thinner for Metalizer. I mentioned it a while ago but I use the mixture to paint in certain details sometimes when I need just a little volume and a smooth finish. The cement medium sounds handy though. Less fumes -at least detectable anyway. Acetone or the Thinner foul up the air pretty fast.

Re: Custom Decals,
They turned out alright but you're going to want to try out some different brands of decal paper and I suggest a laser printer for the job for crisper details. Go 300dpi or better because you want as smooth a print as possible, naturally. So if you use that Azul roundel I posted, I think you should get a pretty smooth print.
You'll want to lay it on a white base and I'm thinking there are maybe two or three ways to do it. Since the roundel is a circle, you can probably cut out a mask and spray the area you want with white, then lay the decal on. That would save you the trouble of having to touch up the space around it much.

Anyway, for me, I painted a field of white, laid the decal in, then repainted over that. One thing I noticed with the paper I used was that it got soft pretty fast when I was using a setting solution and one of the flowers on the Yogurt roundel shifted. Something to be careful of.

>>6494374
you can get white decal paper.

>>6492091
whilst this is true, I hardly think it's it's a rule with flat paints.

by adding a gloss coat to the model you are essentially just adding another layer onto the model, often one gloss coat just soften the surface and doesn't make it perfectly smooth. I find adding one or more coats affects the surface details of the kit, for this reason I've abandoned using this technique.

if you are using a flat acrylic based paint like Tamiya, using a lacquer thinner will get you a much smoother finish helping the decal adhere to the model. However what's most important in decal application is the decal setting solution using. Using micro set to reduce surface tension, microsol to prime the decal to conform to the kit, and finally solvaset to soften and conform to all details and wrinkles in the flat paint.

For the most part however slivering can be removed by adding a dullcote on to the kit, if one were to choose to do so.

>>6493789
>>6494238
Thanks lads, I'm a bit wary of chipping and heavy weathering in this build
>>6494374
I see, I guess nothing replaces factory ones. Yesterday I ordered some decal paper and the setting solution for inkjet as I don't have access to a laser printer anymore (If only I did this just less than a month ago) nor I felt like printing that in public. It should arrive tomorrow so I'll start tests asap, my plan is to do two "big" ones for front hull and the back of the turret and then two small ones in the sides of the turret.
I thought of using real units markings heavily chipped and the new emblems on top but
>muh ss battalions
>muh german fetishist
>muh war crimes
so fuck it, also they would had the whole thing stripped and repainted to get it senshado legal anyway

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So, with the sails of the Vasa being in various stages of curing, swimming in things I may yet decide to swallow, and otherwise not wanting to be fucked with I though I'd get started on my next kit. So, what to follow up the Vasa with?

This seemed suitable. Nine parts, two colour fields. I'll be making HMS Nautilus specifically (as I've been on board her, she's a museum ship in Karlskrona nowadays), but since the kit lacked decals there won't be any way to tell.

>>6494831
That looks like a really quick build. I f you wanted to take a break I would also recommend some ma.k kit that you find pleasing (and more importantly available...) as those are really fun and have beautiful engineering and painting is as complex as you feel like and so is the weathering. I did the seapig suit and had a blast so I highly recommend them desu

anyone got any scale Formula car?

>>6494838
>>6494831
Ive never built a sub but it seems so incredibly boring to do

Neptun, not Nautilus. Gas mask time...

>>6494865
It's a quick and dirty one to get some easy progress happening. Hopefully it'll be done long before I have a chance to get bored.

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>>6494838
I have that exact same rotary base.

How do you lot stay motivated during long/annoying builds? I have a few WIPs that I've been delaying working on for months; I decide to try and work on one, open the box and just nope the fuck out.

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>>6494984
I don't. Haven't finished anything in months and I have like 20 kits started

>>6494984
>>6495140
What the fuck anons, if you only bought and build stuff you really like this shit wouldn't happen.
Also the "small victories" approach helps as doing a pre-set progress and finish it, even if its something small (do left side tracks, the seat of the fighter, whatever), boost your morale as you did something and just keep going.
I have a stash but I only buy what I'm really set up to do and have an idea for it so I'm involved in seeing it finished. Doing small breaks with other kits help, if you do mostly armor try a small ship or a plane or a car just to do something different, I do sci fi things and warhammer to get some variety from the tanks for example.
Also sharing the progress and discussing the builds here or
>reddit
is a good motivation too and you can ask others about what to do or techniques or whatever.

>>6495144
The last kits I bought were expensive kits like meng that I got pretty neat deals on ebay and I don't want to fuck them up. And all the kits I build I try to scratchbuild and add as much aftermarket shit as possible and then I lose interest. Haven't really bought a kit that I was actually interested in in a while. Most of my purchases are random spurt of the moment sort of deals where I see a good price and I grab it. Like there's a guy on a forum selling a RFM 1/35 M1A1/M1A2 TUSK I/TUSKII kit for 35 euros and I kinda want it but I already have an Academy M1A2 in my stash.

>>6494984
>>6495140
Might be time to say fuck it to basically everything and just force something done. Doesn't need to break new ground, doesn't even need to be all that good, just get shit done and over with. Eyes on the finish line and nose to the grindstone.

>>6495155
Just because it's a nice kit it won't build itself ya know, also if you just go buying random shit I see why you don't feel like doing anything. Think a project, and I really mean the think part so make up some story and environment so the weathering and paint job come out good and not just "I smeared some stuff following some instructions". The more you get involved with it creatively the more you want to see it done, anyone can just splunge 200€ in a kit and aftermarket but that won't make it get done or a 200€ build when done half assed

Hi guys, first-time total noob here. I always found watching people build and paint these models weirdly relaxing and I was thinking about starting one myself.
What do you wish you knew when you started? Any tips for a beginner? Can you shill me a good airbrush for a beginner? Possibly something from amazon/a complete set with a compressor.

>>6495259
Get tools, they make life easier.
Cheap ebay airbrush are fine.
Don't hurry.
Start in 1/72.
Take your time choosing a kit you find interesting, you are gonna invest time and effort on it.
Paint > Building. A good paint job can make a rock look interesting.
THIN YOUR PAINTS.
Wash and drybrush are easy and make everything look great, but don't over do it.
Your first kit will still look like shit tho, but you gonna like it.

>>6495259
>What do you wish you knew when you started?

well it never ends, the spending. the new products that come out that you now need to possess to make your models as realistic as possible.
if I was a kid and hand brushed with a few enamels, it would be relaxing. but now, its more like work.
you have to put the work in the get the satisfaction of the end result.

>>6495259
An airbrush isn't a requirement, especially if you're just starting

What's a cheap fun kit you guys recommend, I'm going to uni next month and I would like a project to do along side my studies to keep me sane

>>6495351
It's more like, what do you want to build and then pick the kit.

>>6495366
I wanted to make a mig-21 but I'm looking for other suggestions on what's a fun kit to build

>>6495371
No kit is intrinsically "fun", so I guess you are asking for recommendations on well made, low flash, easy assembly kits? I have heard Revell's 1/72 Mig-21 is in fact pretty good, and you could make it Best Germany. If you are into planes Airfix's Spitfire MkIa is also know to be easy and good. On 1/72 Revell are always really good, although dealing with tracks is always a lot of pain.

>>6495385
More asking for opinions on what kits people built, that they enjoyed. Maybe there's a kit out there that someone liked, that maybe I didn't think of.

>>6495388
What one enjoys can be hell for others dear anon. If you like tanks I can tell you some stuff but ain't gonna just list random stuff

>>6495388
Jesus anon you are vague.
On 1/72 tanks I really liked Trumpeter's Strv-103B, gotta love the S-tank, and Revell's Challenger 1 looks great and builds easy.

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Just bought this big bastard

What am I in for

>>6495478
An f14

>>6495478
Decals

>>6495268
>Start in 1/72.
why?
>Paint > Building. A good paint job can make a rock look interesting.
Paint can't hide the gaps and fuck ups buddy

The rest is okay

>>6495516
>Paint can't hide the gaps and fuck ups buddy
No, it can't, but my point is still valid.

1/72 because bigger kits take 4 times more time to build and paint. That rises 2 problems for beginners, first it makes their first iterations AKA the fuck ups you make when learning, take too much time and effort. Second the same fact they take so long may make overexcited newcomers rush when progress takes longer than expected, when trying to brushpaint a huge kit for example, "now you have to thin your paints a lot and give it 6 layers to the whole thing letting the whole thing dry in-between", bonus point they are cheaper, can build and learn with 3 kits instead of 1.

>>6495543
>No, it can't, but my point is still valid.
Nah, a good build with a good paintjob and a good weathering tops any other that excels at only one those fields. And how could you point stand if you're still painting something with nubs, glue everywhere, fingerprints, poor detail... and the paint won't hide that
>1/72 because
If he's going to work in 1/35 why not start there? cheap 1/35 are easy to obtain (tamiya early stuff is really good for starting) and spray cans are the way to go without an airbrush anyway. Also bigger brushes exist too. Bigger scale without caring about details much is also easier to build and get him used to what's to come

>>6494641
There are limitations to both white and clear decal paper. It basically calls for some planning around what you want to do. Even then, white decal paper will have mixed opacity, so doing a test would be recommended.

>>6494821
Factory decals, at least the fancy stuff, would probably be silk screened or otherwise use bigger/complex industrial set ups which can get you better resolution and opacity. There used to be a commercial printer that had white ink cartridges. The ALPS dry ink printers were kind of big among hobbyists but it was too niche for them to stick around. They discontinued production of cartridges not too long ago but you should still be able to find both the printer and ink. They're pretty expensive though.

I imagine there are ways to print that sort of stuff without being too conspicuous if it makes you uncomfortable. Anyway, I'd be interested to see how it turns out for you. You might need to try a few different decal paper brands but I do recommend just printing a single row to test so you can just trim it off and use the rest later.

>>6494865
I had some challenges with my Seehund. The IMC kit was pretty crappy though, and research revealed that there were inconsistencies in the construction anyway, so there was a little wiggle room.

>>6492329
>>6492473
If you're going for smaller than 1/12 or 1/6th scale, don't bother sculpting in the eye socket areas.

>>6495727
It's 1/35 and already in. I'm just working on the hair at this point though.

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>>6495516
>mfw I recommended a father and son a Zvezda 1/48 La-5 as their first kit

>>6495478
I had a toy one of these as a kid, it was huge, and had a kind of joystick underneath with buttons to make sounds.

fucking loved that toy.
not seen one since ever

>>6495850
nowt wrong with that. nice simple plane. certainly easier to work with than fucking around with a 1 72 version.

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>>6496079
>nice simple plane

>>6496094
>Zvezda 1/48 La-5
oh I didn't see the engine cowl came off... lel

>>6495371

Meng P-51D. It's snap tite but obviously glue can be used, and it's incredibly satisfying when the parts fit perfectly and snugly even without glue.

>>6495478

>What am I in for.

Good detail, proportions. Tamiya engineering folded 1000 times.

OOB decal options are certainly boring for an F-14A. Consider getting a Wolfpack aftermarket sheet.

>>6496079

>Zvezda.
>anything simple.

Go away, gopnik.

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>>6496138
Agree. Zvezda is for serious, multi-layered plans only. Down with smoking.

>>6496167
LEEK
E
E
K

Are there any good videos or guides focusing on star wars weathering other than the links in the OP?

>>6496247

I think FSM did a complete edition on Star Wars not 3 months ago.

Do you guys have a mega with modelling techniques? Especially AK diorama and weathering stuff

Can someone recommend me a good beginner model airplane? WW2 preferably. Don't want a snaptite, but something that's a little bit of a challenge.

>>6496290
Again, Mengs P-51 is 1/48, Snap FIT but you can glue it as well, miles superior than the Tamiya and easy as fuck to build.

>>6496292
Meng makes a superior F350 model that is great, so I will give it a look, I've liked their stuff before.

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>>6495663
Just got the two 300x210mm transparent decal sheets from "bell decals" which is what they had in store, 2.95€ each which sounds expensive but I rather have only two failures than a whole stack of useless stuff, also a lot of decals fit there so if it works this is going to be fun. I also got the micro liquid decal film settler from microscale (this was hard to find) that from what I've seen is necessary to adhere the ink to the paper, worst comes to worst I would just airbrush some gloss varnish and go with that. Overall this adventure costed 20€ with shipping which is a bit more than the price of the modelkasten decals so I'm quite happy in that regard and even more if it works.
Those alps printers should be revamped but I see why it wasn't business side sustainable as anyone that needs a machine like that would buy a bigger and better one for their company.
Working right now with photoshop the layout.
>>6496247
It's not something I've been paying attention but I remember some vids on yt. There's some anon that did some nice star wars kits posting here too so he might guide you better. Honestly it just looks like chipping and very dark grey/black washes.
Last thread near the bottom there were a ton of links to yt channels too.
>>6496290
Airfix recent stuff like the spitfires are breddy good from what I've read, tamiya as always is nice and chill but not sure if cheap.

>>6496247
Use your google fu for a guy named Andy Moore

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>>6496304
And the first (and I think final) print in the decal paper after a test in regular one. This is straight from the printer and looks quite good, but then I added the setting solution and I applied too much so some got a really thick layer that worries me but it's still drying so I can't say. Should airbrushed it or payed more attention to the viscosity of the solution

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>>6496446
Well, the setting solution fucked them up. Only the numbers and one of the small roundels can be saved so airbrushing it is better. Also the setting solution bleeds the ink a bit (and a lot if applied too much) so be careful with that too. I'll print more tomorrow

>>6496457
>>6496446
Honestly looks pretty good. Im curious how thick theyre gonna be going on

>>6495553
>>6496079
Not saying it isn't a viable option, but I still think 1/72 would be easier for starters. Less parts, less painting, cheaper, and faster to make so you can move out to try what you learned to the next one. That my opinion at least, it's up to anon after all.

Do any of you people in this thread have any older, completed models coated with Future? Like, a model that's been sitting around for three years or more?

And if you do, has that model's surface yellowed out as a result of using Future on it?

>>6496885
I've heard that Future causes yellowing. You can buy a bottle of gloss UV varnish acrylic from an art store though, and that should hold up better.

>>6496457
The print came out nice. I actually used a can of clear semigloss enamel spray on my decals. One or two coats. I think the Testors spray decal fixative (or whatever they call it) might be just a relabled can but I don't know. The major problem I had with running colors was pretty much from the cheaper decal papers which just melted into a gelatinous mush when I tried laying them on.

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>>6496981
>gloss UV varnish acrylic

Krylon has like, what, six kinds? Some of them are actually enamel and others are acrylic.

From experience, UV resistant clear gloss is very much an acrylic.

-is Low Odor Clear Matte an enamel-type?
-What about those UV archival varnish ones in the blue cans?

Of course, I can test it, but gathering up everything will set me back like, what? $30 to $50?

Of course, what do _you_ use?

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>>6496994
Honestly, I haven't overcoated my models with anything other than maybe sometimes clear flat enamel, picking out little details with gloss on occasion. I try to polish my canopies and other clear surfaces using a plastic polisher which you can find at auto supply or as a CD scratch removal paste. Toothpaste doesn't have consistent enough grains to get the job done and can be too coarse. 3M plastic polish is pretty good stuff and might give you the best deal for your money. Meguire's (car products) works. I still want to try getting a showroom floor finish one of these days but I don't have a kit to do it on at the moment.

Anyway, pic is the stuff I have on hand.
I think you can probably get a UV resistant acrylic matte. I'll have to check at some point though.
I've never used Krylon UV resist stuff, much less UV resist spray, so I have no feedback on that except I might try it if I ever find some.

>>6497052
I forgot to mention that you really need to be careful with polishing clear plastic. Especially things like canopies, because if they get flexed even just a little bit, they'll get fatigue lines (cracking/"spiderwebbing") and those aren't exactly fixable. You can try to give those items some support by using a kneedable eraser but you're still going to have to be careful.

Is Revell really a meme brand or is it just anons jesting?

>>6497052
If anything, how hot are the solvents in Testors' topcoat sprays compared to Mr Color or Tamiya brands?

>>6497166
They're perfectly serviceable kits but the amount of flash is just unbelievable sometimes.

Academy is the actual meme company
>reviews tout kits as most superior but they're all basic designs with frail decals

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>>6495850
>recommend an eduard kit to kids
>dad is surprised that the cockpit takes 20 steps with photoetched parts
>successfully Jew dad out of $40

This just sounds hilarious

>>6497203
>>6495850
This might be an elaborate work of fiction but do people really ask you stuff on the store? When I go is usually deserted or others just mind their own business

>>6497166
Never heard anything bad from Revell actually. And as far as 1/72 armor goes their kits are cheap and while not the best detailed the plastic is great with very or non existent flash.

>>6497209
I got asked by a dad and his son who where looking for a beginners kit, told them to check those airfix kit packs which include the paints and glue. Mind you, I don't work there.

>>6497209
They were looking for a kit in the store and I thought it'd be easier to build a 1/48 one because it has larger parts. Oh how wrong I was. And yes. There's usually other people in the store. What country do you live in?

ITT: idiots telling stories that never happened

>>6497209
I see people ask about stuff once in a while. The local hobby shop sees much less traffic these days, though. Meanwhile over at the local Japan Town nerd shop, foot traffic is through the roof and they probably move more model kits (of all types)

>>6497166
They're ok by and large. Just do what you always do and check the kit on scalemates first (You are doing this, right?), they've been around forever, so some of their toolings are close to paleolithic.

Hello my dudes,

I used to build models about 20 years ago and recently I have gotten the itch to start again.
I am not a bloody beginner, but I am completely out of the picture.
Can you recommend me some companies that make good 1:72 - 1:32 models?
I basically only know Revell and Italeri, but I have no idea how they are today.

>>6497928
Revell has some good stuff, and some so-so stuff, and some ancient stuff.
Italeri seldom comes up on top in discussions of "what's the best kit of [X]", seems like a step behind Revell.
Airfix is to have been somewhat mediocre, changed owner, and got a lot better.
Tamiya supposedly tends to make really good stuff, though some kits may be getting rather old.
Hasegawa usually gets quite good reviews, lacking in bombs&missiles for aircraft though (often nothing), and they too have some stuff that needs to be retired.
Eduard usually gets top marks for details and accuracy, but some seem to struggle to get them to fit together.
Zvezda varies a lot it seems.

Now most of these also rebox stuff from others. So for example every modern jet and helicopter in 1/72 that Tamiya sells except for the F16 are Italeri kits in new boxes, and nowhere near as good as their own stuff.

www.scalemates.com, learn it, use it, love it

>>6497928

There is a website called scalemates.com
They offer a huge database of all kits imaginable there. You can look for any kit, any company, any vehicle or any scale and you get all the information you will ever need. For example if revell kit xy is a rebox of a rebox of a rebox of a shitty italeri kit from 1956 or if its actually a new kit with molds made in 2015.

I won't recommend anything to you at this point because all the big players have shitty kits in their range these days but there are also gems.
What exactly are you into?

>>6497928
Basically, as with lots of things, the brand doesnt matter so much as the specifics of your model buying. Things you will need to consider in your position are price, difficulty and subject.

It really depends on how far you want to take each of those.

>>6497947
>>6497955
Thanks, already digging around there.

What I like? I like propeller aircraft, had a nice Bf109 once. A friend built the Ju-52. The DC-3 is also pretty sexy. Civilian aircraft is cool as long as it's not some boring current Boeing or Airbus or something like that.
For tanks, Panzer IV all the way and maybe Sherman.
I am also interested in submarines. And I noticed there are models of spacecraft, which is pretty cool.

>>6497964
Price is secondary, but I don't like to pay half of the product's price for import (yuropoor). Difficulty also doesn't matter, my fingers work like they are supposed to and in my job I am fiddling around with filigrane stuff all the time.


I also forgot to say, for now I am looking just for out-of-the-box stuff. I once saw some guy who built a german submarine Type VII with an extra additional kit with metal parts and such. That is a bit too fancy for me right now.

>>6497976
As a German i can tell you that sometimes its cheaper to buy directly from Japan/China and pay shipping/eventual custom fees than to order from a german hobby retailer. (Besides the benefit of the usually way bigger inventory the asian stores offer).

If your skills are still a bit rusty, start with something cheaper. No need to "waste" a 80€+ kit for a starting subject.

Zvezda and Revell do decent kits for good prices. Some old Tamiya 1:35 kits are super cheap too (because they are decades old, but not necessarily bad, just not top notch in terms of detail). But these 15-30€ kits might be exactly what you want to build to properly get back into it.

>>6497976
Still I'm going to say the same as others anons and either choose yourself something you like as you will be more involved or just pick a nice newish kit of your prefered area which is pretty vague thing desu.
It's been ages since I've done planes but tamiya 1/48 were like their armor in quality and pleasure to build. Revell 1/72 where good but also some of my first models so perceptions change. Hasegawa was pretty convulsed but looked okay. From there better find what you want to build (either look through scalemates, next releases from places like themodelingnews, moxdao and moxing (chink but good) or whatever) and then look for the kit.
In armor there's some new players that are top of the line like takom, meng, tiger model and amusing hobby but check others like Trumpeter or tamiya. Dragon is going downhill without brakes lately compared to their early-mid '00s.
To buy there's two really big eshops in germany, modellbaukönig and dersockelshop.
Italy has steelmodels.
Sapin has ammo mig, ak interactive and I could list some other model shops but whatever you could get there you could get it from japan or elsewhere.
Check maschinen krieger kits too if you like sci-fi but wave kits are hard to find and well, it's a slippery slope
If I had to recommend some kits to get your tip wet again (and I'm assuming a lot of things here too) I would say the tiger model T-90MS is a really fun kit but expensive and has plastic workable tracks (if you're not familiar with those just be careful), the takom aml-90 is cheap and easy to build and soon takom will make new releases with new color profiles and decals french based, which I liked more than the ones included in mine for example, but as I'm doing a "what if" I don't care much but still. Amusing Hobby Löwe is also impressive and the tamiya somua S35 is also really nice. Ma.k related the seapig is really fun and simple to build if you can find one.
I don't know what else can I say anon

>>6497985
>>6498176
Well, thanks again guys. I think you have helped me more than enough to get started. Now I just have to make time for it...

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>>6498176
>Sapin

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Sails are once again curing. Hopefully I'm done with the white there, because the can's done. We'll see how it looks when the sun's back and I can see how it looks.

HMS Neptun has been painted, washed/panel lined and varnished. Might end up finishing it tomorrow.

I also bought a pack of N-scale figures to get some feel for the size of the Vasa. Pre-painted, and I don't think I'll do anything about it, so I just painted a small bit of plasticard in the deck colour and stuck a pair of them onto it.

>>6498206
Man I really want that kit.
>Draken
>Fucking Espada Draken
>Includes bonus decals for Silber's F-4E AND Gelb's SU-37
Sad I suck at planes

>>6498359
>Sad I suck at planes

So what you're saying is that you need an inspiring subject to practice with...

>>6498359
In fact it includes decals for both Espada 1 and 2, both Gelbs and the five planes of Silver squad.

>>6498362
More like I wouldn't want to ruin that kit, building an F-15E in between some armor, but clean sharp colors and details ain't my thing.

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Had to do inventory of my stash today, can't fucking wait to move so I can start building.

>>6498376
Yeah, you got some work to do. I'm thinking my stash is a bit big at the moment, and that's four kits.

>>6498359
Hasegawa (and other companies too I guess) should sell the decals and color profiles of their special edition kits like the ace combat ones or the idolmaster as stuff like that separately. Sure it might be expensive as they would want to sell you the plastic kit but that would make a lot of people happy and give them some extra bucks too probably

>>6497190
I've never used MrColor or Tamiya before, so I can't really give a comparison. I think I have a can of Tamiya clear semigloss somewhere though, so maybe later. I imagine them to be about the same. Tamiya is either a lacquer or enamel base I think. Pretty positive Dulcote is an enamel.
Dulcote doesn't come in bottles as far as I know, and I never tried decanting a spray can before. It sounds like a tremendous pain in the ass. Out of the can, it works well for me and I've never had it melt or damage anything I was building. It will eat styrofoam though, so all that packing material will experience a bit of sagging. I think that can be mitigated a little with spray distance but it's not something I paid attention to.

>>6498439
Agreed, thorough I have found the idolmaster kits cheaper than the regular ones, go figure.

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Oh boy here we go.

You guys know any ways to build Daytona USA's Hornet?
kit bashing, sculpting, how would I go about doing something like that?

>>6498458
what the fuck

Anyone know where I could get my hands on one of those Italaerei clear bases for a 1:72 plane? I've got a cracked one and I assume there are some floating arround

>>6498376
>framed, non laminated pussy wagon poster
>torn light purple wall paper
>fuzzy white tiger bed liner

>glorious taste in large scale aircraft

Now I'm not sure if I like tacky shit, or you just somehow managed to get away with good taste in planes but shit taste in furnishing

>>6498376
>swordfish
>float plane version


Damn son

>>6498458
There are a few problems with the model itself but the decal application could use some work too. Also a coat of clear over the whole thing would probably have prevented the decals from drying and cracking.

I've been looking at some of the maschinenkrieger stuff and I find most of it to look pretty cool, are there any of them that are simpler to build than the others? I remember a post about a ton of extremely small rivets.

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>Check HLJ Frontpage
>See these fucking things
>Being released by some no-name company I haven't heard of.

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>>6499365
I kinda wanna get one for the novelty of it, $16 isn't that much of a loss. I'll probably the Flak Cannon one, although the 128mm cannon one doesn't look bad either.. Only complaint I have is the leg armor looks really plain, could use some rivets or paneling or something

Quick question. Sorta new at this, I'm trying to do my first "real" build; it's a Kenworth W900 truck. I'm about to put a clear gloss coat on the truck for the decals but I have some decals that need to be put on chrome parts (the grille)

Should I clear gloss the chrome parts as well or is that going to damage/chip away the chrome? I was always told that pre-chromed parts in kits are finicky as hell and the last thing you want to do is accidentally strip the chrome off them.

>>6499413
I don't see how a clear coat would strip the chrome, but it could certainly dull the metallic effect. And since the chrome should provide the transfers with a good surface to sit on as it is, you can probably skip varnishing that.

>>6499428
nice, thank you.

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>today on reddit

>>6499366
>>6499365
Plz get this and post pics. Interested

>>6499060

>The poster fell, it had glass.
>That's the actual color of the wall, not wallpaper and it has such a shitty preparation that it can't take a nail, hence why the poster fell and glass was smashed.
>Mofo, it's comfy as fuck.

I have glorious taste in furnishing too, but since I'm renting it's not worth investing in good things, yet.

>>6499498
A for effort I guess

>>6499365
>Not knowing about glorious Model Collect
Do you even 1/72 armor?

>>6499498
This >>6499560
It is a complete, abysmal failure, but it seems to be in a better direction than some shit I have seen.

>>6499366
have you seen dust tactics stuff? its kinda similar.

>>6495478
Holy shit I remember that picture. Is that a rebox of a Revell model or did I actually build the Tamiya model back then? Like 20 years ago. Damn, my memory sucks.

>>6499769
I know which one you are talking about. With VF-33, but no. This is a completely reworked and original mold from Tamiya which is not even two years old.

>>6499769
That's Tamiya's own tooling, but since it's from last year, I don't think you built it back in the mid nineties. Not that any of the Revell boxes I see look very similar, your memory may be playing tricks on you there.

https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?q=f-14&fkSCALE[]=%221:48%22&fkSECTION[]=Kits&fkCOMPNAME[]=%22Revell%22

>>6499498
Jesus Christ that canopy

>>6491841
Don't know if you care but a cool idea might be to take the driver hatch plate and give it a totally different camo scheme like ambush pattern or something for the idea of they took the panel off a kt in the shop to finish this one or something

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Was planning to splurge on one of the two newer dragon versions but hey 28 usd isnt bad .might just make a mini dio out of what's in the box don't have a use for the figures at the moment

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Pour one out for the first casualty of my move. Note to future aelf: use pins instead of glue whenever possible for portability

Before anyone says it, making a crashed at-at was out of the picture. It was the old amt kit which was fragile as fuck

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>>6499997
Oh dear. It did fall forward in a very movie-like fashion though, considering the lacking articulation.

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Daddy Andy create but he also destroy
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5JjgO7brUqk

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I'm building the 1/1000 USS Excelsior kit, and I bought the Aztec decals sold for it, they basically cover all of the ship.

How would I go about painting the base color before the decals? I need a gloss finish for the decals to work the best, so would I just paint a gloss white on the model, or do a flat primer coat before that, or a flat white coat, then a gloss clearcoat, decals, then a semigloss topcoat?

halp

>>6500053
Can't help you with the decals because I only paint minis, but gloss clear coat adheres to plastic stronger than flat.

Also, you have excellent taste. Excelsior is best Trek ship!

>>6499365
>>6499366
Kind of want. Except I agree with you about the legs. They look like they could use some work...

>>6500053
rrimer
base color
gloss coat
decals
Topcoat

>>6500252
*primer

>>6500252
I would also add panel-lining after the decals and before the topcoat

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HMS Neptun got finished. Not a lot to it.

As for Vasa it seems the detailing on the sails isn't going to take to a seam-lining wash very well. So that looks like it'll have to be by steady hand too instead.

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With the USS Charette for scale.

Do you guys have a scan of this?

http://ak-interactive.com/v2/product/dioramas-f-a-q/

>>6500717
>a scan of a 580 pages book
>said book costs 80€
>implying someone would go through the fucking torture of doing all that work after paying all that money
Anon, if you want to make dioramas buy it. If you don't want to pay then git gud or look elsewhere.

>>6500730
Making a book that fucking big is a good way to prevent piracy i guess.

>>6500730
I hoped there was like an ebook version or something please NO bully :C

>>6500730
There probably is one somewhere online

>>6500717
>>6500730
Alternatively, any good scans for dioramas?

>painting engine of truck
>instructions say to paint the fan belts semi-gloss black
>wat
>pretty sure that's not right but do it anyway
>fan belts are sparkly as fuck and completely out of place
>strip paint and recolor flat black

thanks Revell

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>>6501084
I don't think that's just a revell thing. As some one who builds a lot of german tanks anything early war says to paint it grey some kits a blueish grey others are realy light grey when to the best we know a much darker color is correct pic related.

>this is more a rant than anything else but I think everyone wanting to make german tanks the light grey and blue greys is do to movies/tv and video games. The number of times I've seen on forums why is the panther yellow all german tanks are grey or why did you paint that panzer3 so dark it should be lighter.

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>build cyberhooby Brummbar
>have spare parts
>look through spares
>spare parts for a command variant of a panzer 1
>what the fuck and why

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Feeling the pull back into modeling for the first time in over a decade, next buy is going to be an early BF 109 in Condor Legion colors and markings

Greetings from /k/

>>6501242
Welcome back to the hobby my dude

>>6501242
That looks really good,specially with some panel-line, good job.
>Greetings from /k/
I assume 90% of these threads are /k/fags tho

>>6501242

Looks real good, broski. What were your references? Never seen a 109 with mottled wings instead of a mottled fuselage.

>>6501243
>>6501354
Thanks boys, never really come to /toy/ outside of the ocassional peek at other people's models

>>6501390
That's Werner Mölders' colors on his BF109E that he flew during the Battle of France. The next model I want to get is a BF109D and I want to do his colors and insignia from his time in the Condor Legion which will be a million times easier as I'll be a solid greenish drab over like 90% of the plane

>>6501402
Speaking of ak and the bf-109 in spain they have this kit http://ak-interactive.com/v2/product/bf-109-e1-e3/ which is the e1/e3 but might interest you

>>6501432
Cool thanks, I'll keep an eye on it if I can't find a D or earlier. The E went into production in late 1938 which gives it very little time to have done much in the Spanish Civil War, for this reason I want to find a D or maybe C. If I can't I'll fall back on this, thanks again

>>6501446
I think academy or dragon had the D variant, dunno if you could find the kit tho

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I'm trying to replicate a diorama inspired by the summer in Stalingrad: mud, destroyed walls and roads, random rubble and rubbish.
Any inspos/tips?

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>>6501901

>>6501901
Get a brick mold. Cast bricks are gonna look best

>>6501242
Looks noice, m8.

>>6501446

Sure hope you live in the US!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Academy-1-48-Messerschmitt-BF-109D-WWII-German-Fighter-Military-Model-Kit-2178-/182672731145?epid=1201579498&hash=item2a8824ac09:g:JdAAAOSwd3dZX9aU

>>6500661
I think it's really cool with rare stuff like this but the kit itself doesn't look too fun (I guess it's hard to do much with modern submarines).
And is that a 1/700 destroyer? That sub must be tiny.
Do you think you'll stay on the Swedish track even after the Vasa?

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Hi anons. Anyone know any good introductory/beginner painting/modelling tutorials? Preferably video but written is good too. I got the fucker pic related to start me off.

>>6502040
ty m8

>>6502080
Sheeeit thanks man, I'm a terrible procrastinator and I'm not sure how long I'll sit on it before finally starting but I might just pick this up

>>6502383
Quick Kits youtube channel has a nice series of videos covering the basics, might be worth checking out

>>6501242
Is that a Revell or Eduard?

>>6502383
Get some tools, you won't regret it.
What anon said >>6502535, he does great work without airbrush.
Also the damn OP.

>>6502333
Yeah, both 1/700. Sub's about the size of my little finger. Looking at my stash the next two builds will be Swedish too, after that it'll get a bit more mixed.

Anyone got tips for kitbashing? I'm looking to buy big loads of random pieces and was wondering how to do that/best sources. Also general kitbashing tips and links would be appreciated. Can also start my own thread if that's not discussed here.

>>6502982
Yeah, buy a metric ton of putty.

>>6502982
I recommend having a more or less clear idea of what you want to do, gluing stuff around just ends up looking like an ugly mess.

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Mid-work on weathering the Tamiya Sdkfz 223.
At first I thought I went a bit overboard with the chipping and scratches (actually I still do), but weathering seems to tone it down a bit.

Are there any models of the ratte? The big ass tank the nazis wanted to built but never did?

>>6503236
I remember seeing Andy Hobby Headquarters building one, it also comes with a few baby Maus.

>>6503244
I should of used google before asking, I found one rather quickly.

>>6503217
That chipping is definitely on the heavy side but I still think it looks good.

>>6502982
Also interested. Search junkyard lots on ebay for mode car parts

>>6503217
I like it a lot. The super high contrast makes it look like a cartoon and its pretty cool

>>6503236
Afaik Takom offers one in 1:700 or something.

>>6503375
Seems to be the only one, 50$ shipping tho :(

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>>6503250
>>6503363
Thanks m8s.
>The super high contrast makes it look like a cartoon and its pretty cool.
Never thought about that... does look kinda cool.

Here's another from the other side.

>>6503502
Agreed. Looks like something from Borderlands

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>today on reddit: something good

>>6503560
The quality on that sub does seem to have gone up a little recently

>>6503591
It comes and goes. I'd sayhalf the people on here actively post there as well

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I didn't know 4chan had a scale modeling subreddit.

I've burnt out years ago when I felt I'm no longer improving anymore while still being shit, despite doing more elaborate and time consuming mod projects? Last thing I did was a 1973 IDF Centurion by AFV-Club modified to 1982 peacetime standard, with little merchants.

Should I get back in? I have a 1:72 Eduard L-39 Albatross half-assembled.

>>6503613
>Should I get back in
entirely up to you..

>>6503614
i don't know. How autistic and hateful is this place? That always helps in getting gud. One of the reason I stopped was all the plamo forums I knew were giant hugboxes with no real criticism allowed.

>>6503621
comments can be harsh. its 4chan after all.

>>6503621
Pretty autistic, not really hateful but you will get criticism (mostly constructive) regardless of how good a job you do.

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>>6503621
>How autistic and hateful is this place?
breh

>>6503621
We are harsh but honest and fair. Imo we help people improve

>>6503621
to be fair, it's firm but fair
although regarding hugboxes, I find them to be actually amusing and encouraging somehow...
like, I sometimes browse local facebook groups about modelling and seeing what other people puts out is just a huge boost on my ego and it actually makes me want to be a better modeler in order to avoid falling to the trap of echo chamber praise

Worked on this very little this days but already done the decals, chipping and now I'm doing tracks and lower hull so I can glue those once for all and move on to the upper part. I'm not very inspired so tomorrow I'll go to the shop and check books and mags and see if something pick my interest. I was thinking either muddy or snow but if I do snow I would have to put some winter white wash perhaps. I'll post about the decals latter as it's a bit tricky to get pasable results
>>6499933
A bit late as everything is gloss coated and done and I don't feel muh like masking but I might do something like that if I feel the look can be improved.
>>6503502
I honestly don't know what to think as that's not chipping but as far I can see in the pics doesn't look very bad, and as other anons said looks like a illustration style job a bit

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>>6503815
Shit I forgot the image

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>>6503613
>4chan had a scale modeling subreddit

>>6503817
Got some silvering, any trick for dealing with that?

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>>6503834
>>6503817
Here, well I understand silvering as the bubbles and bad application of the decal, in this case sits smooth but the thickness is extremely noticeable so I devised this:
>grab a very small brush
>put some gloss varnish
>follow the edge of the decal
>once dry do it again but blending it further doing brush strokes from outside to the ridge so it buildups there
Pic related from yesterday, but taking a pic of gloss on gloss with gloss so close seems that doesn't allow the camera to focus so it's blurry as fuck but more or less it can be seen.
This solution clears most of the eyesore but it's still a bit noticeable due the different shines. I suppose that adding a satin coat on top would unify the surface more. With weathering and stuff it should be pretty blend in.
About the decals (bell decals transparent paper on inkjet printer) the printing goes pretty smoothly but as the hotchkiss anon said you need to take into account that they are transparent so you need to paint the shape behind in white or grey so the colors look solid. Also you need to cut the shape so what I did was use two face tape to get the decal paper fixed and with a new blade carefully cut the emblems. The roundels and stuff on flat surfaces blends better than ones in weird places like the canon too.

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>>6503874
And how it looks right now. As is I can't see it if I look at it further than 20cms but if I get closser I can notice the small ridge. Still needs a coat of satin once I decide if I'm happy with the chipping which I'm not before finisheng the tracks
>>6503613
>I didn't know 4chan had a scale modeling subreddit.

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>>6503613
>I didn't know 4chan had a scale modeling subreddit.

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A quick paint job for a friend.

>>6504192
That was the first model I ever did as a 7 year old

>>6503560

>Nice work with the weathering!
>Fucked up decals and got silvering.

He had one job.

>>6503621

Go to facebook and join the scale modelers critique group if you want that. And if you can take it.

>>6503896
>>6503874
Whoa, you totally removed it, didn't thought it was possible, great job and thanks for the mini-tutorial. Really looking forward to see it finished.

and ITT we convince anon to get back into the hobby

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A while ago I mentioned the idea of painting my twin 128mm flak E-100 in a Panzer Grey / Primer Red scheme, anon mentioned the gun should be black. Would pic related be accurate or some parts of the recoil system should also be painted black? I am open to ideas and suggestions.

>>6504589
>gun
I meant the barrels, the barrels should be black.

>>6504589
>>6504592
I would suggest you lighten the black up a bit to at least something like a black slate shade if you're going to go with a black colored barrel.

>>6504589
Those colors are bogus the photography is fantastic

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>fuck up a splotch on Italian splotchy camo
>have to start over again

>>6504192
No white wall?

>>6504663
I think its just supposed to be an illustration

>>6492329
I have a question about these, I bought the duck team set and I don't like the painted example it shows on the box but I can't identify what I dislike about it, I think it's something to do with the hair
Any advice is appreciated

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>>6504632
About the colors, I was thinking about the lines of pic related.

>>6504663
I just took the photos from their website, mine isn't completely build yet.
http://www.modelcollect.com/germany-wwii-e-100-super-heavy-panzer-with-128mm-flak-40-zwilling

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Went to the lhs today and ordered soe stuff yesterday and arrived just when I came back. Basically this is a recon of the ak material, so far the models are impesive but the "how to" varies quite a bit and leaves shit like colors not mentioned or some important steps just briefly mentioned. They are not bad modelers (in fact some of the best I've seen so far) but their step by step is pretty weak and varies a lot between dudes. Won't scan scan as it's a fucking hassle but I can take pics of the indexes and articles people need if asked
>>6504360
Glad it helps others, desu sharing and showing how to do stuff is what I enjoy the most in the end
>>6504971
Not him and I vaguely remember the stock pics of gup figs but I think is the lack of skin and clothes contrast. All good painted minis, be them scale model or wargames, have very dramatic and well defined and blended contrast to catch the eye and make the small details pop. Hair sculpt is probably too bland too but either you go with the anime ref or sculpt some with green sculpt

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>>6505072
And progress today, finished the lower hull and glued one side. The other tracks still need pigments to get done. I think I will leave it pretty tame until I finish washes, oils and filters and then decide if I should keep it like this or do something more spicy like snow or heavy mud

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hasegawa has different colors of ribbons. does that mean anything?

>>6502769
I have no idea honestly, it was a garage sale find from like 10 years ago that I never got around to finishing. The box is long gone

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>>6505336
I thought you were the one that had build and painted it.

>>6505077
Love the look of that mud, good job.

>>6505040
The reason I suggested a slightly lighter shade is the readability of form. On a barrel, it's not as huge an issue, I guess, but it could help bring out some contour at least.

>>6504971
Can you post pics? I honestly can't tell you what you dislike about it, seeing how it's all a matter of opinion but maybe we can figure out what it is and then we can move forward in how to address it.
Paint and sculpt kind of goes hand in hand and they can sort of support and/or break each other.

Is it fair to say that masterbox generally produces the highest quality mass produced non-resin 1/35 figures?

>>6505867
Oh I see what you mean, yes I am planing to drybrush it with a metallic color, probably gunmetal or silver in order to give it texture and define the form.

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>>6505867
Here, it just doesn't look right

Before I buy this stuff, anybody here tried the clear coats from Mission Models? And if so, how thick does it turn out on surfaces?

>>6505332

Sometimes type, sometimes nationality, sometimes scale. Sometimes whatever the fuck they want.

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'ello chaps,

after around 20 years I decided to get back into model building. On a whim I bought pic related because HURR COLORS AND GLUE INCLUDED. Oh how naive. I was especially disappointed by the shitty molds, like at the propeller. Or is that normal?
Anyhow, this is just the first model, so I thought it would be cool to work with my limitations, which means mainly just using the brush provided with the kit. I know it will probably look horrible, but is it also DOABLE? It has one fine tip and one that is a bit broader.
Or should I just say fuck it and get some real gear first? Knife etc. is of course available.

>>6506124
1 that extra plastic, just a symptom of older kits. cut it off and sand it.

because the acrylics need something to stick too (ie a primer), or it`ll look streaky.
you can use the paint as its own primer. by doing 2 layers,
observe this vid at about 4min mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDQGtAIlXuE

use your flat brush it will make the coverage more even.

>>6506124
>like at the propeller. Or is that normal?
No, the flash on that prop is well into the fucking spectacular, and that's even for Revell, who seem relatively flash-happy. Tooling's from 1996, which normally could explain a bit of flash but, yeah, not that much.

>which means mainly just using the brush provided with the kit. I know it will probably look horrible, but is it also DOABLE?
Sure, it can be done, see >>6499498 for proof of that. But you're giving yourself a hefty handicap. Shit will be harder, and the result will be worse. For all there is to say about poor blacksmiths and blaming the iron, you usually don't recommend people to wear a thirty pound backpack when running their first marathon.

>>6506124
I built that kit as a kid

Fantastic model if I do say so myself, just enough detail to keep you entertained, few enough parts that it goes together easily.

I suggest investing in a good pair of cutters and paints which cover most parts of the model, like the leather for seat belts and rust for the exhausts.

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>>6505547
Thanks, pic related is how it looks on the hull and without wet effects applied.
To do it is rather simple:
>Put two different color pigments, I onñlu used two here but three looks even better imo
>Load a big brush with earth effects enamel Earth and Dark mud from mig and apply it randomly by capillary action, DON'T DISTURB OR SMUDGE THE PIGMENTS unless you want homogenous looking mud
>Add more enamel or pigments once dry if you feel like it
>Finish with some fresh mud applying "wet effects"

This gives a rather tame and generic mud that you can work further on latter or just leave it like that

>>6506124
airfix starter kits are way better in that regard, it should be doable all the same
however, if you're really planning into getting back in the saddle then buying a couple of nice brushes and some primer is not a bad idea since you'll surely keep using them for all the other models as well

>>6505967
Try this on a piece of sprue: Paint it black, then take some graphite powder (pencil 'lead' ground down finely) and rub some onto it. It should give a nice dark metallic sheen. The nice part about it is that it's smooth. I find a lot of metallic paints to not be fine enough.

>>6505990
I can't tell from the picture if it's just the paint job that's doing it or if the sculpt isn't helping the situation. Offhand though, I can where both sculpting and paint could use some fixing. It might be the lighting but the figures look flat and could stand either a wash to get depth, or hand painting to things like folds and seams. Hair could be picked out a little with a blended darker shadow.

If you work primarily in acrylics, I suggest going by an art supply store to get some water mixable oils. A tube should last you a fair while if you're just using it for shading, weathering, and modulating. Probably forever, really. You can apply a thin line and drag it outward with a clean (or wiped) brush to get a gradient effect.

>>6506178
>For all there is to say about poor blacksmiths and blaming the iron, you usually don't recommend people to wear a thirty pound backpack when running their first marathon.

This.

You heard how actual skateboarders warn mums to not buy their kids the cheapo skateboards at Walmart? Same dealie. Those skateboards will cause broken bone accidents.

Using the paints and brushes that come with Revell and Airfix kits is just asking for trouble.

>>6505534
I did, I bought the kit at a garage sale and started building it years and years ago and threw the box and stuff away then, and just never finished it and painted it until last weekend

>>6506124
this is a child's kit. Are you a child?

If not, buy real tools/brushes.

>>6506177
I feel sorry for the guy that was tasked with building the kit with only and using ONLY the box and the stuff inside it.
>rock the piece back and forth then clean the nub mark with your fingernail
>we gonna apply glue with this piece of cardbox!
>we gotta prime it with un-diluted paint.
Not gonna call it cringe worthy because he did a great job, but not asking for a toothpick or a nail clipper was a little over the top. I was starting to worry we wouldn't thin his paint due to not be allowed to use water.

>>6504716
You ought to try the playdoh masking method

>>6507418
not him, but curious about trying it myself
is regular plasticine ok? it feels kinda greasy and I imagine it will be a pain in the ass to clean up later without fucking the paintjob itself

>>6506023
> Sometimes whatever the fuck they want.
excellent explanation.

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K.
This side seems some mm shorter than the other for some reason. Link and length not even once.

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>>6507974
After some CA glue and separating a bit the pieces of the tracks and putting this fucking contraption to keep everything in place the problem is solved. Newer takom releases come with a jig which pretty much solves it but nothing beats workable tracks when you need to weather stuff

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>>6508122
Put a light brown filter and washes done, I should have waited 24h for the filter to dry but fuck it. I started doing two (dirty green and ochre brown) with the idea of going with the base colors but that was too subtle so I re did it with a darker brown and then a very dark grey (almost black but not quite) in the areas that needed deeper dirt.
Schokobraun and red primer are fucking ungrateful colors to work on and do subtle stuff so just use black or dark grey on them if you aren't weathering it for desert theaters

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>>6506769
pls no bully. As I said, I bought it in a state of low impulse control and regretted it the moment I ripped open the container.
Anyhow, I have now managed, to assemble the cockpit thingy. I attached a picture for your amusement.

Note how there is still sprue on the stick and how shitty the paintjob is.
Both stem from my inability to see anything that small. 30 years and already accomodation goes down the shitter (also I am wearing glasses). Seems like I have to invest in a magnification device.
Additionally, I really try to only use the stuff provided, which means three colors (that are only used for the camo paint, whereas everything else is in other colors) and the shitty double-headed brush. But I will force through, make all mistakes I can and then go and get me some proper gear.

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>>6508247
And did some oils to do subtle dust and a bit of tonal variation. Now I can't work it until past tomorrow or so but I'll have time to think what to do next when I add all the tools and stuff and have a view of the whole thing

>>6508491
Excellent as always but desu I'm a little sick of seeing this

>>6508598
why tho?

>>6508796
Theee have been 80 images posted in this thread. 18 of them (yes, I counted) have been that build, often with several posts in a row. That tank counts for 23 percent of all images in this thread.

That's why.

>>6508858
I kinda like seeing progress pics and stuff even if I don't have anything to add, also it's not his fault that there aren't other posts.

>>6508858
I kinda understand what you're but saying but I agree with >>6508884
It's more fun if someone actually has something to share than the thread just being dead.

Also, looking good >>6508491

>>6508371
Get a good light over your work space.
For the bit of sprue, you can get some emery boards. Use the finer side if it has two sides, since it looks like there isn't a lot to remove. Be sure to hold it properly and go easy on the force or you'll break it.
If you're confident, use a hobby knife to slice, then scrape sideways with the blade to smooth it over a bit. Be careful and be sure to hold the piece properly. Don't scrape with the very tip of the blade either. Use a wider part of the blade body.
Since you have that picture, you can go over parts of the cockpit again, knowing the spots you missed. It's okay to slow down a bit. Think of it as a step up from coloring inside the lines of a coloring book. Also, if you're having trouble seeing, see if you can adjust your seating or the light. Move the piece around by angling your hand under the light.

I wouldn't necessarily say the kit is for children but was likely chosen for that arrangement for the low part count. I have a 1/72 Revell Me262a/1a with a similar boxing. Overally a good kit with good details. There are some shortcomings to it, like a messy canopy and a few shallow lines. Also the wheel well was closed off for some reason which blocks off certain details they molded in, oddly. I think it might have something to do with engineering the mold when it finally came to laying it out for cutting...

>>6508884
Agree
I'd post stuff but I don't work on my kits that often and I have a million different projects going at once. Not all of them are scale models either..

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=262787237714&category=183095&pm=1&ds=0&t=1502813867000&ver=0&cspheader=1

Is this a good airbrush for simple stuff?

>>6509562
The airbrush certainly. At least for priming and basic camo stuff on 1/35-ish kits.

The compressor is where i would recommend investing more.
While the compressor in that set works, it will be loud since it has no air tank.
That means it will work constantly to keep the pressure up. This results in noise (some people are immune to that, but others will get headache etc) and it also wears the compressor out faster due to running all the time.
If you get one with an air tank, it will fill the tank and then you can work with that air until the tank gets close to being empty, and then the compressor will start again to re-fill it.
Way less noise and the running time of the compressor is less too.

Get this instead: same store, only 10 britbucks more:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SwitZer-Double-Action-Airbrush-Kit-Compressor-Tank-AS186-Paint-Nail-Tatoo-/252911344532?hash=item3ae2b0db94

You can always get a better pistol for your compressor later if you started to figure out what the limits of the included ones are and if you need it.