Scale Plastic Models

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World War II Group Build
-Build anything in service under any nation from 1936 through 1945. This includes the Spanish Civil War and the Second Sino-Japanese War.
-Whatifs, Luft ’46, paper panzers, etc. are not allowed.
-You can build any kit(s) in any scale and use any aftermarket or do any scratch building you want.
-Partially started kits are allowed.
-The timeframe is from November 1, 2015 to March 30, 2016.
If you want to join post a picture of the kit(s) you plan on building for it.

Hoping for Tamiya to make a 1/32 P-38.

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You'd think being a big company, Airfix could at least commission a decent modeller and get some photos for their website.
I mean are they even trying? Did they get Eve the secretary to build one on her night off? The Airfix tanks I built as a thirteen year old look way better than this.
[spoiler]they have nicely built plane models tho[spoiler]

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>>5275699
Here's another example of crap

>>5275699
>>5275700
Wow, kek, that is weak, incredibly weak. They didn't even build the kits properly, though not suprising considering Airfix is still selling kits with molds from the fucking 1950s to this day.

>>5275630
Same here, I would absolutely love to see Tamiya do a proper P-38 with full engine detail, full MG details, a great cockpit, etc. I think Trumpeter makes a P-38 in 1:32, but knowing them I am staying far away from it.

Other planes I'd like to see Tamiya do in 1:32 would be maybe a german aircraft, since they've already done allied and Japanese aircraft before in 1:32. Hell, maybe let them get crazy and give us a really nice 1:32 Italian aircraft, like a C.202 or a 205.

>>5275716
Thing is, while I hate how they rebox new kits, some of them build up quite nicely, like their Matilda. Still though,they make up for it with their new stuff.

>>5275693

There's that nostalgia element for me too.

I had a ceiling full of Halfaxes, Lancasters, Hampdens and Stirlings as a child. All Airfix, all terribly built.

I've only recently returned to the hobby and at first I ignored them as a company remembering raised panel lines, rivets everywhere and poorly fitting parts but since the Hornby acquisition they've really turned over a new leaf. I guess I should have done better research in to what the market was like.

>>5275730
I still have the Airfix kits I made in my early teens, but Airfix is the company that really got me into models. I still buy Airfix, as the prices are dirt cheap for what you get.

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>all these filthy brits

>>5275716
There is no market for a 1/32 202 let alone a 1/48 one. PCM did make a 1/32 one.

I'd like to see them release a 1/32 P-47. It's pretty likely considering they have multiple kits of it out already.

>>5275633
It's not the odor you should be worried about, it's the airborne particulates and it doesn't matter what paint you use. I wish I saved this one picture of his spray booth exhaust from using only acrylics.

>>5275740
Yeah, I know there isn't and it really makes me sad. There are so few Italian WWII aircraft on the market, and most of them are shit. The 205 was one of the best fighters in the war according to many pilots that flew it, even allied pilots that tested captured ones.

>>5275719
I agree, at least Airfix is getting their shit together in the past few years and releasing new kits with great tooling. Not as great as Tamiya's tooling, but Airfix has definitely stepped up their game and came out with some good stuff.

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>>5275747
This. No matter what you spray, paint particles are flying around the room you're painting. A proper spray booth has filters to capture the particles so they don't cover your furniture / table, etc.

Anyways, I decided to go with the Old Crow paint job. I'm honestly not sure how accurate it is though, I know there are P-51s flying today with this color scheme, but what I can't find out is if it flew with this color scheme during wartime? Can't find any photos of it.

What's strange is ZM clearly based their kit off of the currently-flying P-51Ds in these markings, but the cockpit included in the kit is all WWII, as today's flying P-51s have a lot of the WWII equipment and controls removed, specifically the fuel tanks behind the seat from photos I've seen.

I did do pre-shading though I'm not going to let much of it show through. I really only did it because I want some tonal variation instead of just a single flat color. I don't care if it's not historically accurate or whatever, I just like doing it for my own reasons.

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>>5275825
All finished with the basic main paint work. FS 36440 on the bottom (flat gull gray model master) and FS 34079 on top (Dark Green model master). Found the right colors using a conversion chart.

>>5275716

Revell do some pretty good German aircraft in 32nd so I hear. And they're significantly cheaper than Tamiya's offerings from my quick search, even if you add some Eduard AM to them.

>>5275890

You forgot to putty the wings silly.

>>5275890
>right colors
No, they're the wrong colors. It should be the standard Olive Drab over Neutral Gray. Never looked at a WWII plane before?

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>>5275890

Hey, I'm the guy who told you about the gray underside instead of aluminum in the last thread. This is the only picture I found of the overall green old crow.

Also >>5275955 is wrong as old crow was painted like such in the field and used british colors readily available to them. So they did use Dark Green and any mix of greens they could find.

The Gull Gray may be a tid bit light, though.

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>>5275981

And another.

>>5275981
That's a propagated myth that rarely happened. Even Bud Anderson, the pilot, said it was painted in Olive Drab.

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>>5275985
And this is a photo of the survivor P-51C restored with original paint chips, this is Dark Green, same color used for the overall green P-51D.

>>5275981
Thanks for clarifying. The reason I used the Dark Green color is because it matched on the color charts I used for paint conversions. I literally used the color recommended in the instructions, which was vallejo US dark green 71016.

>>5275988
Well I'm just going by what the instructions say to do, and honestly I'm really not that concerned about accuracy 100%, I'm just doing it for fun.

>>5275988

It is not a myth if it happened. Even rarely means at a point it was true. Also this happened with P-51's and P-47's mostly as they were shipped to Europe in overall aluminum and later painted on the field.

Planes stopped being sent to europe in OD after 1943 when the USAF decided the paint shaved off 10 to 15mph, that's why you'd see so many B-17s, P-38s, P-51s and P-47s in OA by the end of the war.

The 357th crew chiefs used any paint that resembled green or olive drab. Hell, even some mustangs had their invasion stripes painted over with medium green.

P-47s from the 56th were even coated with AUTOMOTIVE PAINT.

>>5275997
>restoration
>correct paint
nigga they use whatever paint they want in restorations which is why you can't always trust them

What are the absolute required tools for modelling?
I want to try this out but there's a lot of conflicting info about what's required and what's just nice to have.

All I know is that you absolutely need miniature drills and razor blades/knives

Thanks and god bless anyone who replies

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>>5276020

>Restorator.
>Not doing research.

Are you really saying small scale model builders can do research and buy a $1.50 bottle of paint to color a model accurately thanks to a 7.95 magazine which contains details on an aircraft livery from the 40's but professional aircraft restorators only use paint they have in the shed?

>>5276031
#2 exacto knife blade and handle.
Decent paintbrushes if you're hand-brushing.
A nice pair of sprue cutters / nippers definitely.
Some sanding sticks of various grits, from ~200 up to ~1000+ for fine sanding.
Putty for filling in gaps, seams, etc. You can thin most putties with a thinner if necessary.

Honestly, those are probably the absolute bare essentials if you're building uncomplicated simple kits, but obviously there are a lot more tools that most modelers use regularly.

>>5276036
they use the wrong colors. just look at the interior colors of many wwii restorations. just ask on hyperscale about this too.

>>5276053

Who uses wrong colors? I assume you are talking about all restoration organizations and don't think all restoration projects fall under one global restoration organization.

Care to provide examples? Please refrain from civil restorations, these must be built with new FAA standards which also include color palettes.

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>>5276059
Not >>5276053 but it happens a lot. People modify planes and paint it with whatever seems reasonable to them. There are tons of modifications too. How many P-51s have a back seat? How many bombers have extra seats for passengers? You can't trust a restoration. Always go with primary sources.

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>>5276071

Of course most restorations will have added hardware, after all they are restored to be flown. However adding hardware does not entail any organization who restores aircraft cannot research the colors used for the machine.

The smithsonian is known to perform some of the best restorations as they restore the original pieces for exhibition.

Here is their helldiver being lowered at the Paul Garber facility for preservation work.

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>>5274377
The Staghound was fun to build. This was not. The contact surfaces are tiny and include tiny PE pieces and it's hard to build it at the right angle.

Are sanding sticks and needle files both needed to build models or can you choose one over the other?

>>5276277
Neither are needed. You just need sandpaper.

You really only need files if you're working with resin or metal.

>>5276277

There is always the right tool for the right job. While you can choose between Sanding Sticks, Sandpaper, and files, having all 3 available will help you greatly.

Sanding sticks for curved seams, like aircraft fuselages or wing leading edge.
Sandpaper for big areas and some hard to reach places and other places which require sanding curved surfaces.
Files for very tight spaces or hard to sand seams.

>>5276300
>>5276311
OK thanks.
Is there something special about x-acto knives or can I use any razor?

The reason I ask is that I already have a utility knife that takes a few different kinds of disposal blades that are wicked sharp, and I think I could probably save some cash.
It's a bit unwieldy but I'm poor

>>5276335
X-acto knives are cheap and easy to replace, trust me you will be going through lots and lots of #2 blades. I say #2 specifically because it's the most useful blade you will use. There are other blades though that I use often, mostly the chisel blades that are flat at the tip.

X-acto blades and other similar hobby knives are very sharp and wear out quickly, but you need a really sharp, thin knife for trimming excess plastic, nubs, etc.

Also, if you don't want to spend a lot of money, invest in 1:72 or smaller scale kits. They are cheap and easy to find (most >$15 per kit).

>>5276335

Adding to what >>5276343 said, you can try using scalpel blades as well. Number 11 blades are also fantastic and the material quality is usually great (medical grade) if you have the extra 2 dollars for them.

>>5276335
X-acto knives of any brand are easier to use and offer different blades for different jobs. I personally have 2 normal sized x-acto knives with #11 and curved blades and a larger x-acto knife with a chisel blade that I use for folding PE.

>>5276343
#2 are the large blades, #11 are the normal sized blades

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>>5276268
And it's ready for paint. Just need to fix the one part and add the tow cable.

>>5276548
How do you choose whether to paint and then assemble, or assemble and then paint?

>>5276593
For armor: assemble everything that gets painted the same color and leave off anything that can't be painted easily afterwards. I leave off wheels and tracks, but I assemble the tracks in runs that can easily be painted and then installed. I usually leave tools and tow cables off unless they would be hard to install after paint.

>>5276548
Painting might be delayed as I don't have anything thin enough for the tow cable.

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I'm going to try and airbrush the checkered front part tomorrow instead of using the decal. That and the propeller as well as some aluminum bits and pieces are all I have left to paint.

>>5275981

Why was Old Crow painted in that scheme as apposed to the NM finish and aluminium paint of other P-51D's?

>>5276723
>that canopy
How terribly engineered is this kit?

>>5275700
>>5275699
Wait, those 2 are on their website?

>>5275719
>>5275716
>>5275700
>>5275699

To be honest, i think there is nothing wrong with those old kits. They are (if cheap enough) ideal for kids and starters. Children don't need to start with Dragon-tier 1:72 kits.
Letting Kids build the kits and put pictures of that on your website on the other hand...

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>>5276031

Only modelling? Or modelling and painting?

Pic related are the essentials, tool-wise. The drill might be optional, depending on the kit you want to build though.
Personally i would use a smaller side cutter and a surgical blade of higher quality with changeable blades like the ones made by Braun.
I recommend using plastic glue instead of super glue for the majority of tasks.

>>5276989
Yes.
>>5276993
I agree, I plan on building some of their tanks soon, specifically the Matilda and Churchill. And yeah, as a kid Airfix models were what got me into modelling

>>5276031
Tamiya basic tool kit is good and inexpensive (nice tweezers). Also buy nail files from supermarkets, best 50p I ever spent

>>5271752
>>5271835
what is that kit like?

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>>5277338
It's a 1/72 Emhar kit. Considering I bought it for 30 cents it's decent. Masterbox has a series of WW1 Male and Female tanks now. Althought they're mk.Is. I did a bit of scratch building on the kit. As it stands out of the box the details are a bit soft but the kit is buildable.
Also started working on Dragon's T-34 again. Does anyone remember it?

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>>5277354

>>5276739

Because of D-day, many other Mustangs were painted like so.

Mustangs in Italy and India retained their NM finish and invasion aircraft were quickly stripped back to NM.

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Hi, I posted this pic before in a previous thread, but I figured I'd post it again because I'm ready now to start my build.

I'm gonna build the Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV/70 for the group build, and if no one minds, I'd like to build the Merkava along with it.

I've never built a modern IDF armor before and I'm excited to start on it. Never built a Meng kit either so I'm curious how their kits are like.

>>5277583
SHEIT. That's a nice selection of kits.

>>5277593
>4 kits
>nice selection
u wot m8

>>5274813
Hi guy i'm new to this hobby. i was looking at this masterairbrush kit that cost about that about 100$. i need to know if it any good before i spend money on it. Also what some website that sell modelling supply that is cheap enough? i go to Ebay and it cost 3.50 for a bottle of paint, there must be some place that sell it cheaper?

>>5277605
Engrish? From China?

>>5277610
well not everybody on 4chan is from U.S you know?

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>>5277610

Seriously, you need to fuck off and be a hot glue loving kissless virgin someone else.

INTERNATIONAL PICTURE BOARD, MOTHERFUCKER. Do you even understand English?

>>5277614
Well thank you friend
now can someone recommend me a website to buy paint and kit?

>>5277621
were r u?

>>5277621
main land U.S

>>5277621

You can try Sprue Brothers and have a look at their paint range. The cheapest I know are the testors square bottles at 1.79 bucks or something like that.

>>5277597
>Meng, Tamiya, Dragon
>not nice

>>5277672
Maybe you'll be able to afford $20 kits someday.

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>>5276548
While I'm waiting on tow cable from Poland, why not build another Staghound?

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Finally got all the paintwork completely done. The checkered stencil took forever as I had to figure out a way to reproduce it from the decals. Ended up just sticking a piece of Tamiya tape over the decal and cutting it out with a #2 blade.

Can you make a good looking model without an airbrush? This looks interesting and I'd like to try it out but I don't think I have the money for an airbrush

>>5278194

Of course you can. Different techniques are needed and you can use spray cans effectively as well.

>>5278194
Yes, as long you're fairly decent with hand painting and have the patience for it, or else stick to subjects with monotone colors and use spray cans instead.

>>5278142
What specific red did you use on the propeller hub?

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>>5277597
Yeah I was shopping around for a kit to build for the group build, but I couldn't decide on so I bought the 4 subjects that I've never built before.

I should have just picked one from my stash, but eh, I always wanted to build those kits anyway.

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>>5277597
I really should put all my kits in one room. They're pretty much all over the place until I find the time to finish my hobby room.

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>>5277597
Here's some more. I want to build that 1/72 Gato so bad, but not until I have the room to display it in.

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>>5277597
Here's some more. I used to love building 1/350 scale ships, but they get tiring after a while.

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>>5277597
More.

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>>5277597
More 1/350 ships and some tanks.

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>>5277597
Found more kits in one closet. I even found some F-86 sabres I started building last year.

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>>5277597
And some more. I think I have more kits in the garage, I'll check tomorrow.

>>5278208
Just plain old regular Tamiya XF-7 for the red and XF-3 for the yellow. Had to paint them flat (they will be glossy when finished) because I had to use masking tape and it wouldn't have worked over gloss paints.

>>5278263
>>5278246
>>5278242
>>5278235
>>5278258
>>5278253
>>5278250
>>5278267
>>5278263
Jesus man, those are some expensive un-built kits you got there. How did that happen? You practically have a small hobby shop as a stsh.

>>5278274
Also, post some pics of those ships please, they look pretty neat.

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So we're posting stashes now?

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>>5278301
I'm too lazy to post the rest.
http://imgur.com/a/JZto6

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Realized I could scan my decals to do stenciling for most of the other larger markings. Once I get that done I'll gloss coat the entire thing with future and do whatever smaller decals are needed. Then I'll do some panel line washes, maybe some filters as well as some streaking on the wings and dirt / mud on the landing gear / bottom of the fuselage.

>>5278270
so you don't use the checker decals at all?

I always wanted to build a 357thFG Mustang, but always screw up that checkered nose.

>>5278312
fuck off back to ur gaypla general.

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>>5279532
No, I didn't use any decals, everything you see on the model so far has all been airbrushed.

What I did was make a stencil using Tamiya masking tape and an x-acto blade. I carefully placed a strip of wide tamiya tape over the decal sheet, and using the x-acto blade I carved out the checkered pattern. Since I already painted the under-surface red, all I had to do was mask the red portion and then over-spray the unmasked squares with yellow.

Another way you can do this easily is to scan your decals with a printer scanner, and then re-print out the decals using regular printer paper. This will preserve the decals if you mess up and want to use the decals instead. pic related, currently cutting out the stenciling for the USAAF roundrels.

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>>5279552

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The markings didn't come out as nice as I would have liked, I think I used a bad type of masking tape. Couldn't use Tamiya because it wasn't wide enough to cut the tape out in one piece. Paint must have bled through the edges a little bit.

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Picked out the old stash, have not painted in like a year. My first scale model was on the Italeri m24 but it went pretty shitty because i used Games workshop glue on it and it's just way too thick. So i guess lesson learned to get that thin cement. No airbrush or anything either. Wanted to pick something like that up. Got the other two kits from a hobby shop in Toronto for like 30 dollars a year or so ago.

Probably just going to start up again and get use to painting again on some of the Warhammer figures. Too bad i primered them all black like a dummy forever ago. Pls don't blow me out for mentioning Warhammer.

Best online store to buy supplies and or models in NA/Canada?

>>5280161
Spruebrothers, for sure in my experience. ebay is also just fine and you can find pretty much anything there as well for reasonable prices.

I really like spruebrothers though because of how fast they ship, usually the same day I order and I get my stuff within ~2 days using USPS.

They have a really good selection too honestly, some of their stuff is kinda over-priced though, so always look to other sites before you buy an expensive kit from them, specifically ebay.

>>5280161
Scale Hobbyist (cheapest kits in US)
Sprue Brothers (Jacked up their prices since buying GreatModels; even with sales ScaleHobbyist kits are usually cheaper; super specials have been the same shit for years; usually only buy supplies from)
Hobbylinc
Tower Hobbies
Lucky Model(based in HK, but kits are very cheap as well as shipping for small orders; large selection of kits, paint, and aftermarket)
Ebay(easiest way to buy foreign aftermarket)

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>>5277735
It's fun building a second copy of a kit. You know all the problem areas and better ways of building it.

>mods ban shitposters
>thread dies
why am I not surprised?

>>5280853
Post your own shit if you want the thread to be more active. We're working on our models

>>5280869
You first

>>5280927
I already did. A bunch of times. I'm currently working on a T-34. How about you?

>>5281022
>no pics
Sure you are

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>>5281321
>>5277354
Did some weathering on the hull today. Any opinions? Where can I improve?
I'm trying to finish some of my started kits before I paint the Hetzer because I want to learn weathering.

>>5281399
looks good. maybe add some grounded down graphite to tracks but it's not necessary.

>>5281403
Haven't added gun metal pigment to the tracks, yet. Also I'll add a bit of metallic effects to the most chipped areas with soft graphite pencil. I don't know if I'll have to add pigment fixer to the tracks to seal in the dirt. Is there a method to make a thing layer of dust because when I use pigment fixer it darkens the pigment a little bit and the thin layer of dust disappears?
Also I'll add some fuel stains.

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Horrible lighting on this picture, but I finished up the decals.

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Took a picture with better lighting. Pledge future was used as a clear coat for the decals, after I laid them down and used micro sol to get them to conform to panel lines, I over-sprayed the decals with another 2 layers of future to seal them.

Gonna let it completely dry overnight and then do some enamel washes tomorrow, followed by streaking and filters using oil paints. After I finish the weathering I'll seal it all up with a semi-matte clear coat.

>>5281549
Can streaking be done after panel line washes? Doesn't oil paint get in the panel lines?

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>>5281553
It does, which is why I usually clear coat the panel line wash after I finish it. Actually, what I do for panel lines is more of a sludge-wash than a true panel line wash. I just take a thick brush and take the wash and just get a nice thick layer of it inside the panel lines by dabbing it all across the model. Then, I wait for the wash to completely dry, and I take paper towels and just wipe down the excess dried paint which doesn't interact with the acrylic gloss layer below. This also kinda acts as a filter in itself when you wipe off the excess.

For the filters I just take an older soft-bristle brush and do a sort of dot-filter method, where I use a bunch of different colors of oil paint that I placed across the fuselage, and just with the brush damp with thinner stipple around and blend the colors together roughly.

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So I'm thinking of airbrushing my first model tonight. Can anyone give me any advice? Also, is there a specific way I clean the airbrush between switching colors?

>>5281558
how the fuck did you white wall the wheels?

>>5281909
Decals that came with the kit. Alternatively though, I often use circle templates in order to paint circular parts like tires or the road wheels of tanks.

>>5281776
Acrylics or enamels? Thinning your paint is really an art but consistency like milk is a general rule of thumb. Use ventilation and a respirator. Use light coats. Practice on some cardboard or something expendable first. Changing colors depends on your airbrush. If it is a bottle type, swap out the bottle. If it is gravity-fed, you'll want to dump out the excess paint, spray out the remaining paint, run some airbrush cleaner/thinner through it. You don't want to spray it as that puts nasty chemicals into the air and your lungs (you are wearing your respirator, right?).

>>5281558
Butifel

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>>5281952
Thanks buddy. I got a bunch of Tamiya acrylic paint. Would it be alright to just run the Tamiya paint thinner (X-20A) through my air brush as a thinner?

As of now I only have a 3M asbestos respirator, which up until now I didn't think of. Could I quite possibly swap out filters and use that?

>>5282096
Use Windex to clean up Tamiya acrylics. It's much cheaper.

>>5282096
X-20A is made for airbrushing, and it works alright. General rule of thumb for me when airbrushing Tamiya acrylics is to thin it 1:1 paint to thinner ratio. So if you use 2mL of paint for example, thin it with 2mL of thinner.

That said, if this is your first time airbrushing, don't expect your results to be fantastic. It takes a while to learn how to airbrush properly, god knows it took me a long ass time to actually get good with it. Just don't give up and keep practicing, watch videos, etc. and you will improve over time.

That said, I exclusively airbrush my Tamiya paints with Mr. Hobby leveling thinner, which is a lacquer thinner which allows the paint to level out even.

>>5282108
I second this, I airbrush a little bit of windex through my airbrush after using Tamiya stuff, just squirt a little in there and use a q-tip to mix whatever paint remains with the windex. Airbrush it through a few times until its clear and you can switch colors.

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>>5282113
>>5282108
Hey, thanks alot guys.

>>5281465
>>5281549
>>5281558
what kind of gloss coat are you using?

>>5282179

Not him, but he is using Future Floor Wax.

>>5281941
I was gonna say, because you already installed them behind the gear doors before the white walling.

>>5282198

Dry fitting is real, yo.

I'm the guy who was asking about the T-14 Armata a few threads ago.

I've decided on a Tamiya T-55 to begin with, I'm just wondering what paints you guys would recommend?

>>5282213
If you are airbrushing, I would recommend Vallejo Model Air, simply because it is convenient and not too smelly. If you are brushing, then Vallejo Model Colour.
However, the easiest way to paint a model without an airbrush is a spray can, (the t-55 is one colour right?).
For the 'rattlecan', I recommend Tamiya.

>>5282240
> If you are brushing, then Vallejo Model Colour.

No. In both cases Model Air is the better choice. There is literally no reason to use Model Colour if the same color is available from the Model Air range.

>>5282254
I find they are a little too thin for some uses, and you get little bubbles.

Am I using them wrong?

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I gonna build a Panther D. Lets see how it comes out

>>5282113
>That said, I exclusively airbrush my Tamiya paints with Mr. Hobby leveling thinner, which is a lacquer thinner which allows the paint to level out even.
You might as well just use Mr. Color lacquers then. They work a lot better and their color range is a lot better.

>>5282213
Tamiya for airbrushing, Model Master or Vallejo for hand brushing.

>>5282458
I have never got on with airbrushing Tamiya. Is there some kind of technique to it?

>>5282501
It's pretty foolproof using Tamiya thinner. I've airbrushed it on unevenly using a bent airbrush needle and it still dried level.

>>5282513
Really? I've only used it once, does it behave differently than regular paints?

and should I use a respirator mask?

>>5282523
It's an alcohol based acrylic.

Always use a respirator regardless what you are airbrushing.

>>5282455
They're harder to get, and I dislike that the vast majority of their colors are semi-gloss / glossy in texture.

>>5282179
>>5282180
Yes, I actually did mention in my posts I was using Future too.

>>5282208
>>5282198
I never glued the wheels in place as this anon says, I just took them off to apply the decals then glued them into place.

>>5282363
That's the new one right? I really want to build that kit some time in the future. You should pick up the individual track links that Tamiya made for it instead of using the ones that come with the kit.

>>5282541
They're glossy so you don't have to apply a gloss coat before decals and weathering.

>>5282541
Yes its the new one from 2015 and it also has some nice details on the armor now.
Yeah the rubber tracks are kinda shitty. I going to lathe a aluminum barrel for the gun myself and cut some wire grid too for the engine air intake.

>>5282566
might as well just buy a gun barrel, they're like £3

>>5282572
a metal one

>>5282363
I don`t understand Tamiya.
Their older 1/48 kit has segmented plastic tracks while their new Ausf D 1/35 kit has the rubbish vinyl tracks again, just like their Panther A and G kits.

>>5282722
Their not actually that bad, the technology to mold those type of tracks has gotten better over the years. I've used the standard tracks that come with Tamiya kits in recent builds and they're really just not that bad. That said, some of their kits do come with link-and length tracks as well, like their ISU-152 and IS-2 kits.

That said, Tamiya are cheap fucks for not just including the single-link tracks that they sell separately with the kit itself.

>>5282725
But then, that would increase the price of the kits, plus Tamiya like to have 'easy to build' models.

>>5282745
>that would increase the price of the kits

And yet Zvezda somehow manages it to include both types, vinyl and plastic link in some of their well priced kits so people could decide for themselves what they want to use.
From all model manufacturers, especially Tamiya should be able to afford something like this.

>>5282745
Tamiya kits are already expensive, more expensive than their counterparts and they come with less.

Compare Tamiya's kits to a Dragon smart kit from the past few years. Smart kits come with "Magic tracks," which are individual track links. They come with photo etch engine grills, clamps, etc. They come with metal tow cables, etc. They even include metal barrels often. All of this for basically the same price as Tamiya's kits.

I like Tamiya kits a lot, specifically because of their ease to build and their excellent tooling compared to the competition, but honestly they need to stop being so fucking cheap and just include the extras with the kit itself, even if it means a slight price increase.

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>>5277583
Finally got the time to post pics. Here's the Jagdpanzer's completed lower hull. I'm gonna see if I have some spare individual track links from my spares box because I don't like those kit tracks at all.

>>5282761
I never realized that Tamiya is expensive. I always considered them to be cheap. Maybe its because of your location?

>>5282757
>>5282761
>>5282769
I always perceived Tamiya as 'affordable'.
But then I've never purchased a kit priced over £20... (Though some kits retailed at a higher price, I got them in a sale or on evilbay)

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>>5282768
And here's the Merkava. I really enjoyed building this one, partly because it's not another naziboo tank, which I'm fully guilty of building too many.

Maybe next time I'll build the LeClerc.

>>5282775
>>5282769
It depends on the type of kit. Smaller, older Tamiya kits are pretty cheap, but their newer releases in 1/35 get kinda expensive.

Still, most of their kits are definitely affordable as you say.

>>5282768
I really like the way Tamiya engineered this kit. They don't force you to glue both hull pieces together, and instead allow them to just sit together with some poly caps. Excellent design and it makes painting the kit so much easier. This is why I'm willing to pay more for Tamiya's offerings honestly, it's not just their pristine tooling, it's also the intelligent way they engineer their kits.

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Finished with the wash for not, coated with more future and now waiting a few hours for it to cure before I do some dot filters on the wings and fuselage. After that I'll probably do a little dusting of mud on the tires and bottom hull, then some streaking followed by a semi-matte flat coat to seal it all up.

>>5282775
Their old kits are really cheap.
Their old Panther Ausf. A from the 70s costs less than 20€.

But even their new ones are not that expensive. That Panther showed above is using totally new tools and was released 2015 costs 44. Compared to the old kit thats expensive, but compared to other manufacturers its reasonable. Prices of some other Panther kits (all from the same online shop)
ICM: 30 (kit is old and really bad)
Tamiya Panther G: 39 (somewhat old)
Dragon Panther D: 52
Zvezda Panther D: 29

Revell and Italeri do Panthers in 1:35 for around 25-30€ as well, but i know that Revells Panther is just a re-use of the terrible ICM tool so yeah.

I kinda like the idea of having a bit cheaper kit with optional upgrades instead of paying 52 for a kit full of stuff (Dragon) i might not want to use. If i were ok with the tracks, i could just buy the foto etched parts for that Panther and probably pay less than 52 for example.

>>5282789
I actually quite like single piece tracks

especially dragon ones

>>5282792
Nothing wrong with them, but its personal preference.
I think with the current state of the market there is a kit of most tanks with just the right difficulty, the right amount of options and the right price for everyone.

>>5282788

Fantastic. Will you try adding an aerial to it or add some pastel weathering for the exhausts?

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Asking here since it seems most appropriate.

I want to safely remove treads on my 1/12 figma panzer so I can paint the tank. I was told it was possible but I am unfamiliar with these bolts. They're like rings. Does anyone know how I would remove them safely?

>>5282949
Get a drill and drill out the upper ring, then you can remove the rest from the other side.

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>>5283063
any advice on how he can put it back together after that, genius?

>>5282949
shit's essentially rubber, it is stretchable enough to take off and put back on, see pic related?

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Well, I was going to try and weather this, but I decided to say fuck it. I'm pretty garbage at weathering anyways honestly, and I really have no idea what type of weathering to do on this aircraft anyways. Just going to leave it nice and clean.

>>5283068
Yeah just use rivets again.

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>>5283175
>drill rivets out
>rivet the tracks back together
>instead of simply taking the tracks off and putting them back on unmolested

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>>5283130
Made a full album of the build if any of you are interested.

http://imgur.com/a/hRCRG

>>5283440
>pubes
I didn't know ZM made non-resin kits.

>>5283518
>pubes

u wot m8?

>>5283518
And what are you talking about? Every ZM kit that has been released has been plastic styrene, not resin...

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>>5280313
The hardest part of the kit is done.

>>5283130
Looks great, man. Also thanks for the tip earlier regarding the checkered markings

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Hi, so I plowed into hlj's sales and I saw this line of 1/144 gimix aircraft from tomytec, I thought prepainted aircraft I can just assemble would be a great way to relax and enjoy the build plus...my paint skills are shit/lack of space and equipment so I can delve into these.

My question however is this, how much glue do I need?

I tried reading the manual via hobby search scans, looks like there are sections that do/don't need glue but couldn't work them out.

I'm guessing there aren't entirely snap fit so I'd thought I'd see if...anyone here tried one?

I have glue I'm just more or less seeing if anyone has anything to tell me about, otherwise I'll be giving these to someone as christmas gifts

>>5283805
>how much glue do I need?
When it comes to scale modeling, except for very few exceptions, the general rule regarding glues is use as little as possible.

>>5283808
Well I gathered I shouldn't be caking he stuff on, I'm more or less curious of how much this particular series of model kits needs glue to keep it intact.

They're pre-painted, decals pre-applied, just makes me wonder how much of it can just be clipped in or not since I seen first hand what glue can do

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>>5283130
>>5283440

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Here's what I'm going to be working on next. I got this kit for really cheap and I've built a 1/32 D-9 in the past. I'm starting to move to smaller scales because I'm running out of display space with all these 1/32 kits. I also just want simpler and faster builds as well.

I already got an Eduard set in the mail for it, as well as some resin exhausts. I was thinking about getting the massive Aires resin set with full engine detail, corrected landing gear bay, etc. but decided against it as it is over twice as expensive as the kit itself.

With all that said, does anyone here have any resources for doing the riveting on the D-9? I have a rivet tool and I wanted to add some extra details to the kit, but I don't know where to find a template that tells me exactly where I need to place rivets in 1:48

>>5284114
You know it's really funny, because I reverse image searched my images with no results linking back to Reddit, which means this guy had to be specifically browsing that very specific, tiny subreddit to even see my post, which means obviously he is someone else who either posts there or at least lurks.

So this pretty much confirms he is a Redditor as well.

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>>5281399
Done building the T-34. Now I'm gonna finish my 1/72 Italeri Hs 129.
Any thoughts? I'd appreciate some advice and criticism.

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>>5284466

>>5284466

Whats up with the different shade of green on the turret hatch.

>>5284466
>>5284469
Looks good.
The metal spots (on top of the machine gun port for example) could use a tiny bit of orange/rust color.

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>>5284469

>>5284470
Tried to add some color variation to the base green using oils. A bit too much on that hatch.

>>5284476
I don't know how to make rust look good. I'll have took look into how to paint rust.

>>5284482
id recommend the weathering magazine issue 1 . pdf

>>5284469
No stains around the exhaust?

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>>5284466
>>5284469
>>5284479

>>5284497
Thought about adding adding I'll see about that because I just looked and I have some black pastel chalk. I've seen some oil or grime streaking down done by some modelers. Did that happen IRL?

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>>5284476
Added exhaust soot and some rust. I'm trying to keep stuff subtle because I tend to overdo everything.

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>>5283594 #
If you ever need to bend PE into a curve, use a lighter to anneal the PE first. Don't anneal it if the bend is straight or you don't want the PE part to be unintentionally bent.

>>5284582
Well done.

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Talking to Steve at badger uk about my stynylrez primer being too thick.
which he is saying they've never had any complaints.

Tell me I'm not mad or at fault here, this is too thick to go through an airbrush un-thinned right?

That's the claim on the bottle.

>>5285849
We can totally tell how thick it is from an image on the internet. You brits aren't too smart.

>>5285861
You cannot tell from the surface tension that its thick and gloopy as apposed to thin and watery? Okay.

>>5285867
No, but I can tell from the bottle you're an idiot.

>>5285849
If it says it doesn't need thinned, it doesn't need thinned. Just spray that shit.

>>5285871
Cant, it clogs the airbrush.

>>5285849
>buying badge crap
there's your problem.

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The joys of building aircraft.

>>5285879
>the joys of building bad aircraft kits
Build a Tamiya and you won't even need putty.

>>5285893
When Tamiya makes a 1/72 Hs129 I will.

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>Another new Chinese company making a 1/16 Luchs
Fuck yes

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>>5285944
Looks pretty decent too, the only other Luchs kit I know of is that really hard to find Tasca kit, and I'm pretty sure Tasca doesn't even exist anymore.

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>>528594 A 1/16 Luchs shouldn't even be a bit kit either, probably about the size of a 1/35 Abrams, only a little taller.

>>5285945
Tasca changed their name to best girl Asuka.
Also, Meng plans on making a King Tiger with interior and M1A1 and M1A2 with interior.

>>5285944
I'm still waiting on an interior for the Panda 1/16 Pz.38 (t).

>>5285956
Yeah I read about the KT kit, might be cool since most KT kits currently existing outside of 1/16 don't have interiors. I've built Dragon's KT as well as Tamiyas.

>>5285961
Same here, I have that kit, painted and everything, but I never finished it for some reason... one of these days I'll go back and weather it.

>>5285873

What size needle are you using?

>>5286172
As recommended .5mm

>>5285956
>Meng plans on making a King Tiger with interior and M1A1 and M1A2 with interior.

hng, I want those Abrams NOW.

>>5286217
I have a Dragon one I never finished.

How do I drybrush without it looking shit?

>>5286224
Use a good brush, hardly any paint (thin if needed), and don't use the same kind of paint as the layer below.

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>>5286232
How do I achieve a finish like this?

>>5286235
That looks like its done with a mixture of dry-brushing as well as post-shading. Spray the entire thing the base panzer grey color, then take just a little bit of light grey and add it to the panzer grey, and I mean just a little bit, just enough to create some highlight effect. Then spray that on in a mottled / random manner in the middle of the panels. Then maybe take an even lighter grey color and dry-brush over the bolts, edges and other raised details to simulate wear.

>>5286246
Thanks, anon. I plan on buying on of these little guns soon.

>>5286235
Preshading and drybruahing using a toned down base color.
Read the guide.
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/painting-weathering/painting-guide/general-info-drybrushing/

>>5286250
thanks.

>>5286192

Weird. I've heard people spraying it with .3mm needles at 25 psi. Perhaps it's your airbrush.

>>5286281
desu senpai it does look pretty damn thick from the pic he posted.

What type of paint is that anyway? Why not just test some ratios with thinner and find one that sprays properly?

>>5286287
Its primer, its certainly thicker than Vallejo, and even Vallejo requires thinning to airbrush.

I can thin it, it still clogs the airbrush up tho, if they claim it can be used without thinner then all I'm saying is maybe I got a bad batch.

I cant imagine anyone putting through their airbrush and not having it clog.

But I`m sending it back to Steve & hes sending it back to their analysis lab.

So either they will agree, acknowledge there is a problem and hopefully give me one that works, or disagree and say no their product is perfect and I wont use it again.

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I received the PE set I ordered from Australia today.

>Be me
>Start hobby around a year ago
>Go through 6 airbrushes 3 Chinese ones 2 neos and 1 real Iwata
>Start and finish maybe 12 models of ships and robots and shit.
>All dead want kill self
What brushes have the greatest life?
I run all the one's I've had on a really low pressure after the first one I broke but they still all slowly died. I would pay rape money for a brush that would last me a year, hell even 6 months.

>>5286500
How the hell do you kill an airbrush? Do you not take care of them?

Did you even lubricate the needle? Man wtf. That's too many airbrushes.

>>5286509
The washers on the Chinese ones and the neos just went over time. One of the neos nozzles broke and the metal got stuck. Similar thing for the Iwata but it was the part where the air goes in the fitting just died. I'm not a ham hands and I've never damaged as much as a figures joints and I've watched a bunch of airbrush care vids only use vallejo cleaner and super thin brushes to clean them. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.
I'm at the point where all I want is a good brush that doesn't kill on me and if it does to have cheap replacement parts.

>>5286523
After the first 2 I started WD40ing most of the moving parts. I read that the industrial lube on some of the parts should be good for years so I didn't put too much work into that.

>>5286541
>using WD40 on an airbrush
Are you mentally retarded?

>>5286579
Am I incorrect in believing WD40 is a multi-purpose lube?
It has worked on every tool or less than perfect joint I have sprayed it on.

>>5286600
Do you use it for sex too?

>>5286600
WD40 is a penetrative, it dissolves oil.

>>5286638
Is this in relation to the fish eye thing I keep reading because I and many others have never had that issue?
I'm just looking for a good brush with some longevity lube is the least of my concerns.

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>>5285147
The hull is nearly done. I just need to add some minor details and then build the turret.

The PE guards would have been nearly impossible to form without first annealing the PE with a lighter.

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Here's my jagdpanzer, minus the kit rubber tracks. I have some spare Dragon individual tracks and they look ok.

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I also worked on the Merkava, finishing up the hull. The tracks were a disappointment. They have flash and pin marks you have to clean up, and they don't really fit all that well.

>>5288970

It's a good thing most of it is hidden. Is that a Panzer IV I see behind?

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>>5289004
Yep it's a Dragon Panzer IV I decided to finish while I'm working with the jagdpanzer.

I plan on getting these kits sometime soon. Any major issues with them apart from being old Tamiya?
>Tamiya 1/35 M41 Walker Bulldog
>Tamiya 1/35 M4 Sherman Early Production
>Tamiya 1/35 M8 Howitzer

>>5289035
Just that they come with those terrible rubber tracks you can't glue together.

Plus the details are a bit soft, a lot of parts are out of scale, but as old kits, they're very buildable.

>>5289035
Don't expect modern level of details and shitty tracks. Also the Sherman has open sponsons.

>>5289036
>>5289143
I can deal with that.

I just want to practise painting and weathering techniques.

What is the best putty/filler for modelling?

>>5289521
humbrol model filler

>>5289546
Are you joking?

>>5289547
ummm..... no

>>5289549
huh, I had a tube once, and it wasn't too great. Is the Tamiya stuff good?

>>5289521
Tamiya by far. You can thin it with their lacquer thinner if needed. Iafter it dries, it can be smoothed out using Tamiya lacquer thinner.

>>5289559
can it not be thinned by their x-20a?

>>5289560
No, use Tamiya lacquer thinner only. It can technically also be thinned using Tamiya Extra Thin.

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Progress pic of the Jagdpanzer. It doesn't come with any interior, Tamiya went full Jew and released the sprue with the main gun assembly and metal barrel separately.

But eh, I can live without those.

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>>5289604
>full Jew
Have you heard about their Panther D?

>>5289604
the gun moves with the periscope thingy right?

>>5289608
>Have you heard about their Panther D?
lol yep. My local hobby store has one in stock and I decided to buy a Dragon Panther D instead.

>>5289609
>the gun moves with the periscope thingy right?
Yep, the gunner's sight move along with the main gun. Kinda gimmicky, but I appreciate that feature nonetheless.

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>>5289546
>>5289559

Pic related.

>>5289617
Good choice, lad

>>5289626
I've used both and Tamiya is better.

>>5289626
I have this, its very... light, and easy to sand off.
I also have green stuff, which stinks but is harder.

>>5289729
Green stuff is an epoxy, it's not meant to be used as a filler. It's much more dense and viscous

>>5289747
Viscosity is only used for liquids.

>>5289747
Epoxy can be used for filling large gaps. I use when fitting resin cockpits.

Finally finished the jagdpanzer, gonna prime the entire thing now so hopefully I could get start on painting today.

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>>5289814
Whoops forgot the pic.

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Also finished the merkava. I'm gonna try painting the jagdpanzer and the merkava at the same time

>>5289747
I meant squadron green putty.

I have a semi-stupid kind of question regarding putty... Can Tamiya surface primer be used as putty?

Ive seen some build where the putty they used to fill up seams seemed to be brushed on, and was wondering whether that was the surface primer or not.

>>5290025
Not really. It and Mr. Surfacer can be used for scratches and very tiny gaps like panel lines, but no larger as it shrinks dramatically as it dries due to the fact it is paint.

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>>5287167
The Crusader turret is done.

anyone know good scale vehicules for megabloks call of duty guys?

>>5290563
Therer aren't any.

>>5284582
I'd still make the entire inside of the exaughst pipe black. even a prius exaust goes soot-black inside let alone a WW2 Russian tank. you shouldent be able to see rust there.

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>>5290711
I second this.

With the two Staghounds ready for paint and my original project put on hold to gather resources (and maybe build all three varianta at once), I don't know what in my stash to work on next...

Do you think that Dragon tank rider figures would be able to fit on a sherman? I don't want to buy them only to find them incompatible.

>>5290711
>>5290716
I'll do that when I come back home today. Thanks, lads

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>be me
>very little money to spend on hobbies
>look at all those models I really want
>about a year later
>finally have a lot of money to spend
>absolutely nothing that tickles my fancy

Anything you guys can recommend?

>>5291151
What are you into? Planes, Tanks, Cars, Ships or giant robots?

>>5291170
Tanks and military vehicles, preferably WW1/2 or Cold War.

>>5291195
May I suggest Meng and Takom fow WWI tanks, Dragon for WWII, and Meng, Trumpeter, Takom for Cold war

>>5291203
I'm thinking something brutal, like a soviet APC...

>>5291205
Trumpeter makes a bunch of Soviet stuff. BTR-40/50/60/70/80, BMP-1/2/3..... The problem is that they're not beginner kits. They have photo-etched parts, individual link tracks.

>>5291217
I like their BTR-60P. Open top AFVS are nice to build.

>>5291195
go to pintrest or google images and search models, or mig jimenez and look at inspiration.
that always makes me want to get something.

>>5291396
I think I'm gonna get trumpeter's btr-60p and the Kominterm artillery trailer. I like the functionality of soviet stuff.

>>5291429
*tractor.

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Speaking of tractors, can anyone find any pictures of Catepillar D7 tractors towing US or Soviet artillery?

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I think I'll build a 17 pdr next.

Also, is anyone in the US interested in a Hasegawa 1/72 F-14A?

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>>5292333
No but here is an M5 artillery tractor in use

Based Janitor is Based

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Does anyone have any experience with the Academy Merkava?

>>5292409
I already have the tractor. I'm just looking for what I could hook up to it, maybe a Soviet A-19.

>>5292439
>Does anyone have any experience with the Academy Merkava?

Fit is decent, like most Academy kits, had trouble with the ball and chains in the rear of the turret. Vinyl tracks and road wheels are terrible, but can be built into a decent-looking Merkava, if you're not that knowledgeable about the tank.

>>5292539
Frankly I'm not that knowledgeable about tanks in general, I know a bit about specific tanks but not nearly to the degree that most of you seem to. Is there a better Merkava kit that you would recommend?

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Oh boy, Trypophobia. My favorite!

>>5292898
grow a pair.

What are the best modelling channels on youtube? I'd like to see some weathering tutorials.

>>5292898
TRIGGERED

I know this isn't strictly your wheelhouse, but I didn't want to make a new thread just for one question.

I want to get a die-cast model F-15C for my dad for Christmas, with a stand. I have about 100bux to spend. Is there a particular company/model you'd recommend? I don't mind using hobby link japan, if that matters.

>>5293072
You're better off asking another thread, or even website. I mean we only make kits or scratchbuild here.

>>5293098
Alright, I'll do that. Thanks.

How do I do weathering? I plan on building a soviet afv but I have no idea where to start.

>>5292554
>Is there a better Merkava kit that you would recommend?
If you want ease of build and accuracy, Meng.

Hobby Boss also makes good Merkavas, although the way they did the suspension bugs the crap out of me, and the newer Academy Merkava Mk. 4 is good as well, much better than their old Mk. 3

>>5293100
Try Collection Armour, of Franklin Mint. I used to collect diecast models, until I realize I could build a better model for a lesser price.

>>5293072

You may want to hurry the hell up:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hobby-Master-1-72-McDonnell-Douglas-F-15C-Eagle-Diecast-Model-HA4551-HMHA4551-/191722401114

The hobbymaster F-15C is about the best one you can get.

>>5293072
Also try Dragon. They used to make 1/72 scale, pre-built diecast models. I remember them making several F-15s.

>>5293190
You know man, weathering isn't something that can be explained in a few 4chan posts. Just fucking google some tutorials, or look some up on youtube, you know, use your brain... There's plenty of them on youtube that you can watch to learn some basic techniques.

>>5293256
I mean I'm really not trying to be a dick here, but seriously, just look at some youtube videos, particularly ones from this guy who has quite a few videos on weathering with various chipping methods, as well as pigment weathering and washes / oils for streaking, rust, etc.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNFwUnVfLwM8THyohoQXBAQ

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Been working on a Tamiya Ki-46 III Shintei-Hei, really neat aircraft that was modified from the standard Ki-46 reconnaissance aircraft and designed to target B-29s by using a 30mm gun mounted upwards to hit them from underneath.

The kit itself has a really shitty "interior" if you can even call it that. I bought an eduard set to add some detail though, as well as resin exhausts and resin replacement gun barrels.

Going to do some chipping over the hull on the main wings, nosecone, engines, propellers, etc. using maskol and a sponge. Currently getting things masked off so I can airbrush the insignia instead of using decals.

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The aluminum base color was done over a Tamiya X-1 base using AK's aluminum. I've used AK's newer metal paints a few times recently, and I really like them a lot better than standard Alclad paints. They just spray a lot better and are more hard / durable / thicker than alclad.

Here's the interior.

>>5293256
>>5293263
Sorry. I just feel overwhelmed. Are the mig 'transformation' sets a scam or are they worth it?

>>5293452
No idea what that is, but most weathering can simply be done using standard pigments, like ground up pastels, or by using oil paints. Specialized weathering products like MIG's stuff is more expensive, but is probably better for beginners and easier to do overall. Just follow these simple rules for weathering; if you're using acrylic paints, use enamel products to weather. If you're using enamel or lacquer paints, use acrylics to weather with. Alternatively you can weather enamels with enamels if you place a thick gloss clear coat before you start weathering. Like I said, explaining how to weather is a very long and lengthy process, as there's multiple ways to weather different types of models. Aircraft weathering is very different from armor, and vice versa.

Look at OP's like to scalemodelguide as well, there are a few resources there for weathering as well. Like I also said earlier, youtube is a great resource, so use it, just search around and look for weathering videos for specific types of vehicles / aircraft and see what you can find.

>>5293395
just ordered some ak chrome to try, and some alclad grey primer to try that too, meant to be pretty idiot proof.

>>5293540
Never used Alclad's primer, but I did use their gloss black base a few times in the past... suffice to say I now only use Tamiya X-1 black as a base for metallics. Alclad's gloss just never seemed to cure completely, I let it sit for weeks and it still felt like it was never fully dried. Compared to Tamiya which dries within a few minutes and cures within a few hours, and you can handle it just fine while wearing gloves after it has cured.

>>5293190
Here's another good channel.
https://www.youtube.com/user/Panzermeister36/

>>5293644
I use Alclad's primer. It's bretty gud. The only problem I've experienced is whe I primed vinyl tyres. The primer flaked of if I squeezed a tyre. But it makes a really strong bond with plastic. But it's really toxic.

>>5293972
You can't use oil based paints on vinyl or rubber and anything you use will flake off if it is flexed.

>>5293540
Mr. Surfacer is the best primer around. It is foolproof when thinned with Mr. Levelling thinner. I use Mr. Suracer 1000 if I had to fill a bunch of gaps, but otherwise just Mr. Finishing Surfacer, black or grey.

Mr. Primer on the other hand is pretty bad.

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Anyone else working on anything silly?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrNyivua3C4

>>5294028
stay in your gaypla thread, faggot

New thread
>>5294166

>>5294168
troll thread, ignore it

>>5294168
I see you're still trying.

>>5293390
Why haven't you glued and filled the seams on the wings, and yet you sprayed alcad?

>>5294035
You do realise there is no actual requirement to make purely historical kits right.

>>5294389
>not ignoring the shitposter

new thread niggas

>>5294431