wip projects and terrain ideas.
got an itch for a new board so i ordered some supplies and while waiting made this lovely outhouse to see if i still got it.
trees and hills are made some 7 years ago with wire and clay.
Very nice. I made terrain once as a kid, and I used thin squares of plywood and I decorated them using small stones (real ones) and grass and trees from a model train store.
How did you do that pool of water?
>>55370390
thank you
its pretty relaxing to just build something and let your imagination fly.
i searched for good way to do water from vallejo products to woodland scenics but found out that the best stuff is regular 2 part epoxy resin.
too bad mine was quick dry and i messed up the nice even surface it had, too much green colouring too.
>>55369918
These arent really wip, even though the building on the left hasnt been touched in 18 months.
Made these a while back and they've never seen a table, but I thought the kind of rivets I used on the roof planks might look good on your outhouse.
>>55369918
Nice
I'll post some stuff that might be useful to you anons.
>>55374130
>>55374146
>>55374168
>>55374185
>>55374198
>>55374253
>>55374265
>>55374288
>>55374310
>>55374334
>>55374351
>>55374372
>>55374435
Nice. I'll be doing some shinto shrines and scenery for my Daisho games tomorrow
>>55374463
>>55374475
last thing I made as this
Bumping with my stuff.
>>55376489
Please tell me there's a disco ball in the works.
>>55377688
>>55379568
>>55379587
>>55379595
I wish there were more guides on making nice clean scifi terrain. 90% of urban stuff is 40k ruins or WW2 ruins. I want to make a board for Infinity but it's pretty rare to see anybody making cool cyberpunk boards.
>>55379638
Bump for quality
This thread is relevant to my interests
Some stuff I'm bashing out before Necromunda arrives. 3D printed parts with hard drive packaging for the bases.
>>55374435
This stuff is cute! I require moar!
>>55379587
Every Christmas the Ferrero company sends my employer a display stand topped with a mountain of fake Ferrero Roche... Polystyrene balls, wrapped in golden paper and glued together. I've just been poking cocktail sticks through them and painting them green... PVA wash seems to have taken some of the colour out of the flock though.
Some of you faggots lack creativity.
Good to see you're having a go though, keep at it. Thanks for the pdf tutorials. Heres some wip.
>>55383711
>>55383711
>>55383731
I wanted to do a grimy scifi piece. Could be leman russ storage, or a scene for an alien egg infestation. Im yet to decide.
Large warhouse. Un enterable.
Removable roofing. I drilled holes through the wood the sticked around it. Its a system im going to use alot in barracks id like to builld.
Does anyone have any plans/blueprints/templates for lasercut MDF terrain?
There's a local makerspace that has a laser cutter that I thought might be worth trying out.
>>55384448
If you search Thingiverse for 'laser terrain' you'll get a few hits. Was looking into converting/building my own cutter at some point, plotting your own designs doesn't seem terribly hard; you do layouts in a 2D vector program (Inkscape gets referenced a lot), and I think you designate cut depth with different colors.
>>55383298
Not same Anon, but here's a bunch of posters that plaster some terrain I made for Rogue Stars. Because most of the terrain we've got is old MDF stuff that doesn't have much detail on, little splashes of colour make it a bit more interesting.
>>55383163
Man I wish I could get some stuff like that for Necromunda. Can't find any decent terrain.
>>55385259
So what do you do with these? Just print them out at home and glue them to your models?
>>55385410
Its just foamboard and balsa wood.
Can be had fairly cheaply if you look for it and is really easy to work with
>>55384448
Great idea, thanks Anon.
Learning to use a laser cutter (maybe also 3D-printer) might be my winter project.
>>55385447
Well, not to the models, to the terrain - I had a lot of bland, featureless walls that needed something on them to make them a little less dull. Print them out, cut them out, use a bit of PVA glue to attach them to the terrain, and then give them a wash with some inks to make them fit in a little better.
>>55384448
Just pirate yourself an old-ass copy of adobe illustrator and export your drawings as .dxf
>>55385259
That's pretty nice, I'd like to see more similar stuff, it's great!
>>55379640
It's a hell of a lot harder to make than ruins, and less practical in play. Really not surprised that most Infinity players and similar that I've seen go all-in on the laser cut wood kits. So much less effort in the long run.
>>55385521
>Great idea, thanks Anon.
Woops, meant >>55385030.
>>55385592
I suspect I am too cack-handed and retarded to produce good templates without much laborious optimisation, so I was hoping to do it the lazy way and skip all that.
But you are right, that is the more appropriate way to go about it.
Still have some stuff I made yesterday that I'll post because it's relevant.
>>55386041
Working on the last three pages of this article now.
>>55386067
>>55386740
Is that yours? Toy pelican on a couple of beads?
>>55386822
I believe it's dollar store plastic animals and beads. When I come home from work I usually swing by the craft room to see what my GF has made for tabletop.
>>55369918
Somebody once told that orc the world was gonna' roll him.
Now, he ain't the sharpest tool in the shed.
>>55369918
Is there anything I can use in a frozen forest other than trees and snow piles?
>>55386892
Snowy rocks?
Big ol' ice shard pillars, if you're feeling a bit fantastical.
>>55374168
>>55374146
>>55374130
There is no way modern GW approves of this nowadays, right?
>>55386954
Or alien? It's for 40k but it works.
>>55386892
Old ruins, frozen lakes and an abandoned cabin
>>55387020
>>55386954
Thanks a bunch
>>55385827
Nah it's not too difficult m8, the toughest part is working out the location of tabs and their holes and remembering to make them the same length as your material thickness.
I drew and cut these 6mm things (roofs not shown) as an experiment a few months back, didn't take me all that long.
Give it a bash you'll like it.
DIY terrain is so comfy.
>>55387496
You have to put in any tolerances when you're designing tab & slot for a laser cutter, or does the burning take care of that?
>>55388173
The amount of burny-ness depends on the speed and strength you set the laser too, and depending on what you're cutting. But I've never had any problems fitting tabs into slots, even with the lowest possible power so as to minimise burning they just takes a bit of a push
>>55376489
This is what real warhammer 40,000 looked like.
>>55383711
Anon. You're still using expended polystyrene, and you dare say others lack creativity?
>Oh the ironey.avi.jpg
I've been working on this industrial set from wargamestournaments. Trying to get it done quick so its just silver and black and brown washes for oil stains and grime.
Am thinking of blowing it all up.
My 'intact' urban board that is. Would be a lot more handy for games with more holes in everything and some piles of debris.
>>55383334
Nice! That's awesome and very old school.
>>55392208
That looks pretty convincing, got any other terrain for it to go with?
Throwing a whole bunch of Yugos I bought wholesale together for some post-apocalyptic wargaming. Sorry for shitty phone camera.
Any of y'all go balls deep on terrain boards like pic related?
I only really play at my FLGS, I don't have McMansion spare rooms to game in (Bonglish).
>>55398624
I'd love to one day. Alas, I have no room and limited budget.
Currently I am working on a large complex as a center piece for my 15mm modern middle east board.
I'll try and remember to take pics of it once its more than cut up pieces of foamboard.
>>55399221
>>55398624
Same here, no room, no budget. Or rather budget could be had but going all out on a piece like that means not getting value for money in terms of modular terrain. Fancy boards don't get used much after all.
whoever suggested applying a bunch of primer to 3D printed parts then sanding them a few days ago: thank you! It works wonderfully and opened the way to a bunch more stuff. I didn't want to print much scenery because it would have been pretty obvious, but that's not the case anymore.
Left is an untreated piece, right is one I treated with different sprays till I got one that did the job (hence the black and grey mixed up on the part) and then sanded with a fine grit.
>>55400264
You can also use acetone vapor to smooth the part. https://makezine.com/2014/09/24/smoothing-out-your-3d-prints-with-acetone-vapor/
don't have pictures of the terrain ive done with me but this thread is too comfy not to bump
>>55402347
Only works on ABS. Technically you can vapor smooth PLA, but the chemicals involved are too volatile to make it worth the risks.
>>55386041
>Scnery on the Cheap
I'll not believe GW is good again, until they publish articles like this.
>Tfw Ogre Kingdoms terrain tutorials with mawpits from broken christmas balls and stuff
>>55403153
I've got some of those 'wargames model mods' fuel silos. Neat little kits, if not a little pricey for a conversion kit for a pringles can.
>>55403153
I'm half tempted to go out and buy some Pringles just so I can use the cans in something.
>>55403611
Didn't know those existed. sounds unnecessary.
not my dumpster, but remember kids, scatter terrain is extremely important!
>>55369918
Any advice for what kind of size terrain should be for 6mm games? I'm trying to make my own papercraft fort but the scaling is fucking with me right now.
>>55406066
About 1:300 if you're looking for a scale to work with. 1:285 also works.
>>55396238
Those are great!
>>55408310
>>55411287
>>55411301
>>55411319
>>55411326
>>55411398
>>55411409
>>55411424
Any good set of paper terrain?
This thread makes me miss Stompa Guy.
>>55411984
Yeah, I miss him too. I heard rumors that he was ill, but I don't know if they were true or not.
>>55412256
I sent a couple of emails back and forth with him last year and yes, he was ill. He was pretty sure that his time was quite limited. - which sucks.
>>55385259
>naked Starbound guy
Hhhuh.
>>55412786
I'm sorry to hear that, but not surprised. He had indicated that he was having serious medical issues.
>>55415901
>>55411918
Paper terrain it is!
>>55415924
>>55415948
I want to paint rust on scenery, but don't want the entire thing to be brown (I'll either use metal or dark grey as basecoat) & I want to save on cash. I got a big supply of black, brown and yellow paint and I would like to know if I can pull it off with those.
>>55415962
>>55415970
These are the specific colors, to give a clearer idea on what I got.
>>55415970
You'll want a bit of red paint as well, and don't use a lot of black as it just makes everything look dark and muddy. But I don't see why you can't make those work. You'll want to do an experiment with washes, and you might have better results doing several light washes over the top of each other once the previous wash has dried.
>>55416027
>>55416037
>>55416027
Good point with the red, it'd look like diarrhea otherwise . How can I make/get wash in bulk to cover whole buildings? Would watering down the paints I got (with water/medium) do the job?
>>55416055
>>55416078
>>55416091
If they are acrylic paints, then yes you can thin them with water. You can also get 'mat medium' (which is an acrylic base without any pigment) that can thin without turning your wash into complete soup.
What materials are you using for the buildings? That will impact whether or not you need to seal the material with something before applying your washes.
>>55416118
>>55416129
>>55416118
I got two buildings out of pringles cans, and something else has paper strips (cut up GW boxes) so that will probably lead to issues. Would spray primer be enough to seal them, or would a dedicated sealant be better?
>>55416144
>>55416146
The Pringles cans are probably OK, but the card or any foam core stuff you make would be much better off being sealed. I'm not sure how the card will react to a spray primer, but the Pringles cans should be fine. You'll have to test some card with the primer first. You can also make a thin (watered down slightly) white glue / Elmers glue mix and 'seal' your card that way. Again test things out to see how they work with your materials before putting it on the buildings you made. Spray sealer would work if you don't apply it to thick. There's also a material called 'Gesso' - an acrylic base you can paint on things and then once it's dry you can paint / spray paint over.
>>55416199
Thanks for all the tips, the pringles cans have been fine trough getting sprayed and painted by all kinds of stuff (used one for testing so it's covered but still fine). I'll go and try spraying & painting the card and see if it takes it well.
I do use some kind of foam building material, but the foam on the inside is way tougher. I got no idea what exactly it is, but it's great for big flat stuff. Can be cut but takes a few times to get through fully.
>>55416199
>I do use some kind of foam building material, but the foam on the inside is way tougher. I got no idea what exactly it is, but it's great for big flat stuff. Can be cut but takes a few times to get through fully.
Sounds like 'Foam Core Board' - pic related. You'll want to seal the edges with something if you spray prime it because the solvent in the primer will eat the foam.
>>55416388
it's this stuff
https://www.gutta.com/en/products/decorative-sheets/hobbycolor.html
The sprays I use don't eat trough it atleast.
>>55416471
Yeah, that's something different and it's PVC based. Just be careful that any sort of solvent you work with doesn't eat the PVC. Otherwise you should be OK.
>>55416609
Yeah, considering how I'm working on a pipe system based off PVC pipes it wouldn't hurt to be extra carefull
>>55416723
Nice. Pics when it's done.
Teeny tiny terrain bump
>>55419511
Shame we don't see much epic stuff these days
>>55411409
Nice!
>>55420964
Shshh... Last week I realised that my Epic binge had left me with about 16,000 points of Orks.
>>55405984
Some are, some are more complicated. The laser-cut gratings are quite nice.
>>55406066
If your templates are designed for 28mm, you'll want to scale it to around 20%. Depending on the exact 28mm (because the term is kind of vague) you may want to go up to 25% scaling.
>>55422854
>my Epic binge had left me with about 16,000 points of Orks.
Post this shit on /awg/, I'd really like to see that.
Supports for the pipes are getting done. Last thing I want to do is add some rivets on the paper strips. The tubes (not pictured) will get some riveted on plates to make them a bit more interesting. I planned to put these corner pieces on bases, but I've begun to doubt that a bit considering how it'd be annoying when not using a battlemat.