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Good evening, guys. I drive a 2006 ford escape XLT, and I have

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Good evening, guys. I drive a 2006 ford escape XLT, and I have been noticing an excessive amount of rust on it lately. I have been finding rust on the bottoms of my doors, wheel wells, a pretty god amount on the bottom, and even on my seat brackets, etc. I was thinking about soda blasting it and then coating it with an undercoat or something, whats your thoughts on this? Will it work? I can't afford a new car AT ALL, and this needs to last me at least another 4 years or so.
Also, pic somewhat related. Thats a pic of an F-150, but it has the same issue as my escape.
Just drive the thing until it's nothing but rust dust.
That was my original plan, but I want it to look somewhat good at least while doing so. My father told me the same thing, and that once you see rust like that, there's no fixing it.
What about using rust converter? I don't have any idea if that would work/help though.
never heard of that before. is it expensive?

Home depot has it for $54 a gallon, or you can find it elsewhere for $12 in spray-can form.
im gonna do that, thanks man.

Ahhh fug, here we go.

I went through this with my car. If you do it properly it will easily last 4 years.

Look up POR-15, buy the trunk kit to start with. The anti-rust paint is UV sensitive so you need to also use the topcote that comes with it.

You must follow the cleaning instructions to the letter. The stuff holds better on rust but it will work just fine if you use the metal prep stuff on clean metal as long as it is properly cleaned with their marine clean crap.

Remove loose rust or all the rust if you want. Don't use wire brushes or wheels, use 3m scotch brite silica discs and a rotary tool.

Use marine clean. Boil water and mix it in a container, 1/2 boiling water and 1/2 marine clean. Use gloves, this stuff will make your skin die and peel off.

Scrub, hose down with water. I had to do my floor pans, I literally ended sticking the garden hose in my stripped car to clean it all off, it's gotta be all flushed out and it takes some time.

Wait until it dries, brush on the metal prep. Wait 15 minutes and give it another coat. The white powdery looking residue is normal, it will help the paint stick.

Wait until it is dry and flush with water again.

Then the rust preventative paint. Three coats, no less. 3 or so hours between coats if I remember right. Thinner is better, otherwise you get air bubbles that dry internally.

After 3 coats of the rust paint, two coats of the top coat, same drying time.

Also, don't get this stuff on you either, it takes a long time to wear off.

I did this to the entire underside and inside floor of my car, still perfect 6 years later. Very hard finish on the anti-rust paint, plastic-like.

It's very good shit if you put in the time to use it correctly.

Alternatively, clean rust and use cheap rustolium and coat the parts you can't get to in oil frequently.
^expensive and tedious way

take a grinder to it and then when it's nothing but pits with bare metal and little spots of rust scrub it with a 50/50 solution of vinegar water and water. it'll turn black, clean it with water again. Then just spray an etching primer and call it a day. If you want it to be pro then get some epoxy primer
This is by far the most helpful. I'm broke as shit, so ill probably use the cheaper method, but even if thats done right it might be good. Also, do you think one of those "rubberizing undercoats" will be worth it on a properly cleaned surface?

This sounds like something more in my budget.
g o with POR 15, you don't need all those steps, they sell a POR15 that you can just roll over the rust, you do have to clean all the loose crap off though, that IS VERY IMPORTANT, or else it will just flake. POR15 is fucking amazing shit. but god dam dude your vehicle ain't that old. My beetle is from 77 orginal floor pans, sat for 9 years, and all i did was wire brush the loose stuff and POR 15 the pans, still looks great.
brillo pad, scrub it down.

Krylon rust tough enamel or rustoleum rust converter paint, usually $7 can. 1 can will probably do most of the small rust areas you have. 2 cans did the entire rear frame of my F350.

Scrub it down until there's no loose rust/dirt/etc remaining. The more scrubbing you do the better you'll be honestly. Then tape off areas where paint is still good, spray rusty areas with rust converter.

Be careful about rust near paint. Sometimes the rust gets under the paint and will continue to spread and will bubble the paint. Watch for paint bubbles after the repair. If you find any, break the paint off, sand the whole area down until you are slightly beyond the damaged paint, then spray with rust converter or a primer/sealer.
yeah, i'm kinda pissed off by it too, I bought the car in the middle of the winter, there were salts and shit on the road and it was EXTREMELY difficult to detect any rust, in the meanwhile we use my mothers 2002 explorer for towing boats out of salt water and the under carriage is SPOTLESS. POR 15 sounds like some really good shit, but i saw a gallon of the stuff is $120 and almost shat myself. Im probably gonna wind up doing this >>13657895
>^expensive and tedious way

Agreed. I would probably never do it again, but I was mostly out of money and just got jewed on the car I bought.

Douche covered up a fuckton of rust with spray on rubberized undercoating, cardboard and small pieces of sheet metal. Seemed fine until I saw how badly it leaked in the rain and pulled the interior out.
Check the rear shock mounts and front subframe where the control arms mount, they rot out real bad there.
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