Archived threads in /o/ - Auto - 3739. page

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Want to buy cabrio, found 2 cars that fits me, what to choose, which one is easier to maintain or which one is better overall, have less problems, cant decide really, both fits me.

Here's the real ones, dealer page:
z3:
auto.plius.lt/skelbimai/bmw-z3-1-8-l-kabrioletas-roadster-1996-benzinas-4508690.html
miata:
autogidas.lt/mazda-mx-5-kabrioletas-1999-0127520053.html

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Replaced the high pressure line and pump on 07 g6 about 4 months ago now have a leak but it's not coming from either line that's attached to the ps pump (not the flow or return) line is attached to the rack and pinion and appears that the steel portion of if is bolted along with another line on to the frame that runs along the bottom of the fender not sure where it goes can't see but is leaking power steering fluid for sure....the question is what is this line? is it a bitch to replace? any tips? also it has a heat tape protective shit around it and the fluid is pouring out from around the end of it I assume its leaking somewhere in the line and running out the end....any info at all would be helpful thanks

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Why do you hate stance?

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Any mechanics around?

I have a Kia Optima Hybrid 2013.
Been driving this car for 2 years without problems , have about 80K kilometers.

2 months ago the car started sputtering while driving on the freeway and the CEL started flashing. I pulled over and restarted the car and all was well. This happened once again so I took it in to the shop. They said it were bad spark plugs and had them replaced. After that the problem occured again and they replaced the coils. After that the problem occured again, only now restarting didn't help and I had to call AAA. The engine was broken (1 cilinder fucked) , so I had my car in the shop for 2 months waiting for a new engine. Got the car back on friday and all was well. This morning the problem reoccured. WTF

Any of you guys know what could be the issue, since obviously the official kia dealer here doesn't.

Also when they connected it to the computer there were no errors this morning...

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is the 240sx a good race car? i hear of people buying it for drifting and shit, but what about pure track stuff?

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Word of warning bench racers need not reply.

Any anons here have an aggressive locking differential?
How do you like it compared to a lax locking differential? Open Differential? Spool or welded differential?

Does it scare you with how it jerks and locks up? Or have you come to handle it?

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Hey br/o/s,
I'm looking at a 2000 Volvo s70 glt for sale. It's a 2.4l awd with 107k. It's $1750. I'm wondering how reliable they are. I don't want any issues as this will be my sisters winter car who lives out of state. Her bf can do oil changes and that's about it. It has a turbo charged 5 cylinder B5254t engine and I'm not sure what transmission. Do the transmissions or motors grenade before 150k frequently etc. Thanks in advance

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What do you guys think about sc300s?

They seem really good to me, and I can find them cheap in my area.

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Itt we list the parts that have broke in our luxury German automobiles

>vacuum pump
>passenger door handle
>drivers side window button
>stuck seat belt
>turn signal
>radio knob fell off
>center console lid fell apart
>cup holder doesn't pop up properly
>SRS light comes on when it's cold

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Are there any low budget nice looking sport cars?

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Look at this absolute fucking BEAST

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why are g35s so cheap?

checked online today, these things are dropping into below 6000 range near me. ~100,000 miles usually. my question is what's the deal? is it just because it's a 10-12 year old car now or are they unreliable hunks of shit that have been beaten on their whole lives?

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So I'm watching Initial D Legend, with the eurobeat edit that some anon made. It's pretty good, but another complaint I have is the new VAs. Takumi sounds like such a loser holy shit. Does it get any better? Or is Legend just completely inferior to the original?

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Porsche 928 as a first car. How bad of a choice would it be, /o/?

Are the 90s models less of a money hole than the originals?

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Dear /o/

Thanks for even giving this a shot, I appreciate any and all advice although purchasing a new car entirely is out of the question for the next few months to a year.

I drive a 1995 Honda Accord LE with ~170k miles on it. In the last 4k miles and the corresponding 8 months or so I've had a very odd problem with my car.

About 70% of the time the car is running it runs perfectly normally. The power steering pulley assembly is a little loose and so it squeaks but other than that there are no routine issues.

The other 30% of the time, when I put the car into gear and begin to drive, it enters a state I will refer to as "borked," in which the check engine light comes on, a faint knocking begins and the car will not go over 3200 rpms. At 3200rpms it acts like it is redlining and will simply not accelerate further.

This borked state is also accompanied by what I assume is an electrical issue, as the idling rpms go from the standard 750 or so to near 250, causing the car to sometimes turn off at stop signs and red lights.

The car is more likely to turn off at an idle in the borked state if the AC is running, as the rpms dip even lower.

The other symptom caused by the borked state is a hot plastic or electrical smell coming from somewhere under the hood.


If anyone has any questions or suggestions as to what the problem could be please let me know. My brother and I are tackling it as much as we can but he's a mercedes tech and so doesn't really know how to approach this particular problem with this car.

Any hondafags out there have advice?
Thanks!