Archived threads in /o/ - Auto - 2911. page

File: Ford gt.jpg (57KB, 636x388px) Image search: [Google]

57KB, 636x388px

ITT /O/ spots

File: vannnnnnn.jpg (51KB, 480x300px) Image search: [Google]

51KB, 480x300px

>tl;dr help me buy a car, also post your 1st cars and how good they were for you

Hi /o/ I'm looking to buy my first car and could use some help! I know fairly little about cars and whats good so I'd love some advice.

Here's my current situation:
>I want to own whatever I buy outright and currently have $4100
>I'm 6' 7" so the car would have to be fairly roomy
>I want something that is good for road trips (500-1500 miles), and that can carry music equipment, camping stuff, etc.
>It would have to be fwd or 4wd because we have bad winters here

Here are a few cars that I've been looking at so far:
https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/5643814943.html
https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/5643814943.html
https://spokane.craigslist.org/ctd/5626385587.html
https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/5648644918.html

As a side note, I really like minivans.

Any advice will be appreciated!

File: KMX125.jpg (57KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]

57KB, 640x480px

I asked this in /dbt/ but only got a reply about the KTM and it moves too fast.

I'm coming up on buying a new bike and I can't move up the the A2 license yet so I'm stuck with a 125.

Should I buy a 2 stroke or a 4 stroke trails bike?

I'm tempted to get a KMX or DT just because they seem more fun and they're faster, I'll be doing a lot of trails but there's the possibility of some distance travel and I'm not sure about taking a 2 stroke very far. Both my friends I'll be going around with have 4 strokes, one has an XL125 and the other has a KTM Duke.
My 4 stroke options are pretty much a DR, XL or XT.
All bikes will be 80's - early 90's models.

File: RWD.jpg (36KB, 770x518px) Image search: [Google]

36KB, 770x518px

You get 50K to build a driveline for a dragcar (solid rear end, automatic transmission).
You have to select an engine, transmission, and rear end. You must use one component from each of the US Big Three: GM, Ford, and Mopar.
For example, you select a GM engine (e.g. 454 BB), Ford transmission (e.g. AOD) and Mopar rear end(e.g. 8 3/4").

Which driveline components do you pick? Do those picks change if the budget goes up or down? Any changes if you could use a manual transmission, or an IRS?

File: mclaren-p1-lm.jpg (290KB, 1920x1080px) Image search: [Google]

290KB, 1920x1080px

sweet mother of jesus

File: MishimotoLogo_zpsca4662a7.jpg (36KB, 980x280px) Image search: [Google]

36KB, 980x280px

I drained my blue coolant but did not do a flush and installed a new radiator and then added red oem coolant.

While driving, my car almost overheated. Would not performing a flush have contributed to the overheating?

File: IMG_20160622_162613.jpg (3MB, 2992x4000px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 2992x4000px

>take wheel off to get a new tire put on
>scrubbing away the brake dust/road grime on the inside
>find this

Well fuck me running. Now I'm scared to put it back on.

File: 00i0i_cQiJh1FM7U4_600x450.jpg (33KB, 600x450px) Image search: [Google]

33KB, 600x450px

So, I would like to have an old truck for hauling shit around to the dump, picking shit up at home depot, all that. This old W150 has been on CL for a month for $600.
Text of the add:

>I'm selling a 1988 Dodge Ram 150, only 108k miles, runs great, very reliable, used as a daily driver without ever having a problem. Could use some new tires, and has dents in the side and front bumper, and no muffler. Easy things to fix, and it's not loud even without the muffler. Tires are flat in the pictures, but have since been inflated and it's back on the road. It's a reliable truck, have driven as far as New York, never had a problem with it, has a 318 motor, easy to work on and they last forever. The paint is a little worn, but it has very little rust for its year, and no rot. Solid frame, the interior is still in good condition, solid truck all around, and the thing's a tank, can take whatever you throw at it without a hiccup. Does have fairly recent tune up, with cap/rotor/plugs/wires, and oil change.

File: electric-car-vs-gas-car.png (429KB, 849x485px) Image search: [Google]

429KB, 849x485px

Well, /o/?

File: 1400.gif (2MB, 300x232px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 300x232px

How long will it take the used car market to collapse once automated cars hit the streets? Will this happen? Why wouldn't it? What happens to everyone's luxury vehicles and exotic cars? Pic unrelated.

File: wholesale-font-b-Car-b-font-font-b-AC-b-font-font-b-Compressor-b-font.jpg (190KB, 2745x1911px) Image search: [Google]

190KB, 2745x1911px

I'm raging way too fucking hard right now so I'm going to make this quick.

I've got a Honda Civic 09 that has not had working AC for the past 4 months. I was getting around just fine and working a hectic schedule so I didn't bring it to a shop until this monday. Took it to a shop and I get a call about 4 hours later telling me the car no longer starts and asking me if I have another key. Apparently that was going to do the trick. I didn't so they checked fuses and other bullshit and couldn't find out what was wrong with it. The owner of the shop was on the absolute fucking defensive about it even though I kept my cool and just simply told him I wasn't going to pay for any additional repairs. The day passes and by closing time he tells me that he will take it to the "dealership" the next morning.

Next morning the owner says he took it to the "dealership" and that they have more equipment and will be able to fix it. The whole fucking day passes by again and I tell the owner I need to know which "dealership" he took it to so I can get some shit out of the car. Well he gives the address of another shop which is not a fucking dealership and sends me off.

Today I find out from this other shop that it's the ECU and the replacement is going to be $1500. This is absolute bullshit because I've never had any issues of the sort before coming to this shop to get my AC "fixed". I had to miss two days of work while waiting on my car, and was misinformed about where my car was going. It malfunctioned while it was in the mechanic's hands and the owner is refusing to take responsibility.

How should I proceed to handle the situation? Is pressing charges an option?

File: SAAB9-2X-527_6.jpg (220KB, 1024x682px) Image search: [Google]

220KB, 1024x682px

Best car new car for under $27,000? I would prefer under $25,000. I want something fun to drive but I don't care about it being "fast". I'm not going to be racing it or driving it at 100% ever.

I'm attracted to a new Civic or perhaps a WRX. The WRX is at the upper limit of what I want to pay. It looks like the WRX could cost about 28,000 which is more than I would like but still possible.

Also thinking about a used S2000. I'm not afraid of working on a car and have done all the work on my current car for 10+ years, but I can finally afford a new car and am considering my options.

My current house doesn't have a garage so that makes me hesitate on a new car and think maybe I should go used. I don't like the idea of leaving a brand new car out in the weather to be shit on by birds.

Also considering a Saab 92-X AKA the Saabaru.

File: Audi Shit8.jpg (500KB, 2244x1133px) Image search: [Google]

500KB, 2244x1133px

What went wrong?

File: 1969-dodge-dart-swinger-340-interior.jpg (57KB, 660x431px) Image search: [Google]

57KB, 660x431px

What is the comfiest classic car I can drive for long distances with a budget of <$20k?

File: fiesta.jpg (62KB, 630x374px) Image search: [Google]

62KB, 630x374px

>implying /o/ has sex