/PYBT/ post your bike thread
rides like a tank edition
it's as low as it goes, i thought of cutting the tops of the plastic thingies that keep the rods in place
then i realised the tyres touch the fenders when fully inflated so im thinking about removing them altogether
You're supposed to cut the metal rods down to size. The plastic is there for minimal final adjustments and so that you don't have exposed sharp ends.
New brake levers, bar tape, bottom bracket, left crankarm, rear derailleur
Gotta get around to cleaning these filthy skinwalls eventually
Tange Champion 2 frameset exchanged for beer money. To be outfitted with Suntour Cyclone, probably. Honey brown bar tape and new brake hoods are incoming.
>inb4 "nose up your saddle"
2nd favorite bike in MTB trim...
what place of valpo is on the pic?
salu3 desde limache
Jesus fuck anon that goddamn long stem tube must rattle more than two skeletons fucking on a tin roof in a hailstorm.
Also align the tire logos over your valve stems and stop buying memeskins. but other than that nice bike.
Hello fellow SRAMman. We are the opposite though, I have everything but a Red crankset. I'd love to own a Cannondale someday, they're geometry is just so hard for me to fit on- I'm 5'10, and they never offer a 52cm frame for some reason, and with their 'classic' geometry, the fit needs to be spot on.
Still getting the new to me bike dialed in- getting the steerer cut this week, putting on some new tires, and I'm trying to find a 110 mm stem to see how it feels.
this is my bike
its a baywatch keychain thing from the new movie, haven't seen the new movie. But baywatch reminds me of Pamela Anderson, which reminds me of Limewire porn, which reminds me of my youth.
just reglue it, don't be a bitch
incedentely my boss had a bike that used the same compisition that he abandoned after his glue did deteriorate that wound its way into our bike shop after 10 years.
There was a 2 year period where the bonding was kinda iffy. My frame was after they fixed it, but yeah if the problem ever arises you can just epoxy it.
/g/ fag here, more or less one year ago I saw this bike posted here and it's basically the most beautiful bike I've seen. Could someone please help me with as much specs as possible on this and more or less how much I'd spend in building something similar? Please faggots help me, I need to do this, public transportation makes me want to kill myself.
that guy is still around, I think. he has several bikes he posts. I can't remember the spec but that's probably ~ $200US just for racks and fenders. A cheap set of fenders is like 50, and I doubt these are a cheap model. The racks look like Velo Orange to me, which is quality and priced that way.
As a whole, it's probably a fairly expensive bike but just sleeper mode since it's not a race-y look.
I agree, though. that's a totally slammin' ride.
Pretty sure that dude still posts here regularly. He's the guy with the stickerbombed bike, yeh?
The frame is a Raleigh of some sort, maybe a Tamland? Similar frames that come to mind would be the Soma Double Cross and All City Space Horse - both available in disc brake or rim brake versions.
Front and rear racks both look like the Velo Orange Constructeur racks.
Full build on that bike is probably somewhere in the $2K range, although it's hard to say for sure - no labels on the wheels, but given the rest of the bike, I'll bet they're not machine-built eBay specials. $200 for the racks alone, and I'll be those aren't cheap fenders. Brooks saddle, too.
You could build a similarly functional bike for perhaps $1200 if you bought cheaper racks instead of blingy chrome, forgo the Brooks seat, etc... A budget build on a nice frame can still be a really nice bike. It'll be more expensive if you really care about the looks.
>Pedals are pretty meme if he doesn't spin at really high cadences
even if he wanted to stick with platforms instead of spd, he should get good platforms
the pedals that come with a bike are usually just $5 nylon shit to let you test ride it
>what are some decent platform pedals
for commuting/light road usage I like bmx style platforms more than mtb ones
the pins on mtb pedals are great for grip, but fuck up your shins and shit if you hit them
i've got some odessey pedals on my beer run bike that are pretty great
>I need to do this, public transportation makes me want to kill myself.
riding will make your life 10x better man, i guarantee it
if you like the commuter aesthetic, then want you is a frame like that
some shallow-ish, flared drops
nice, wide supple tires
and a good rack
there's 100 different bikes out there that are like that, and they're all dope in different ways
Today was my first day with the new chainring, and it is amazing... I picked the perfect size for my ride style and environment.
It's funny, I originally bought the bike to make it an actual commuter (that I could quickly strip down for weekend fun) but I can't bring myself to fag it up. So far all I've done is remove gears and drop the stem. Looked at fenders, but felt ill. Now I just keep a change of clothes at work for rainy days.
it's 120 mm, it ain't thaaaat long, but it's the only way i can fit an agressive position with my weird body proportions.
I already have a pair of GP4000 sII ready to be used
what size is your bike? if you are still considering a 110 mm stem it means you are still fiddling with the fit, so don't sut the steerer.
It's a small- The TCR has such compact geometry though, the seat tube has to be something ridiculous like 47cm or something. I'm about 5'9-5'10. What I am going to do is have the steerer cut to leave 10mm above where the stem is now so that I have some flexibility, but get rid of the absurd tower that I will never use.
In the spirit of OP, here's my red rigid MTB with slicks. AND A HUCKHUEG BASKET
Yeah, they're interesting. I like 'em a lot, but they're not without compromises
* No worrying about if your shifters and derailleurs will work together. It's friction shifting! Mix & match however you want, no issues getting MTB front derailleurs to index right on brifters. Covered in mud after climbing a fire road in the rain? Doesn't matter, still works.
* Way more convenient to use than downtube shifters
* more convenient than thumb shifters on the tops
* marginally more convenient to use than bar-end shifters and much easier cable routing.
* They're conversions from cheap Tektro levers; hoods really aren't all that great. Small, too - I think the ones compatible with road brakes are conversions from the RL320, which is sized for kids???
* You can only shift from the hoods. Fine on a modern road bike where the primary position is riding on the hoods, but this bike is set up for descending fire roads and the bar heigh is set such that the primary position is the drops. The widely flared and swept bars make the hood position a little awkward anyway.
* Friction shifting means no lighting-fast shifts. You've gotta feel your way up and down the rings and across the cassette. Not a setup you'd want to road race with.
They work out great on this bike, but definitely not something I would recommend for all bikes.
>mid blase eyelode
...mid-blade eyelet? You're asking about the little red nubbin attached to the middle of the fork blade?
It's a little 3D-printed plastic bit to mount a headlight. There's no space up on the bars with the bag there.
What are these bullhorns?
I've been trying to find decent bullhorns for a beater commuter as well, but I hate the majority of bullhorn bars' shapes and sizes, and the really decent ones are expensive as fuck or hard to find.
Is flipping and chopping drops any comfortable? I'm sure I could find some oddly shaped drops that would work well flipped and halved.
>QR seatpost clamp on a road bike
>no bottle cage
>borderline ghost-bike color scheme
4/10 would not ride
Lol it's actually from Action Bicycle Supply, who are out of business. I used it because the chainring bolts I had were too long for a single ring, and I had it laying around. Keeps my pants/shoelaces out of the chain on coffee runs, which is nice.
They're classic style road drops (think Nitto classics), flipped and chopped. I had the same issue as you and never liked regular bullhorn shapes (pursuit ones even less). These are great, the "ramps" part is completely flat and pretty short (contrary to regular bullhorns where the reach can be rather long), and the "hoods" little bend feels nice on the hands. I also like how narrow they are, something like 38cm wide. I feel like a truck driver when I jump on my "nice" road bike with 42cm bars.
The only downside is you can't use the kind of brake lever that goes butted inside the handlebar, since the bend at the point where you cut them won't allow it. I found the interrupter levers were a great cheat though.
Oh and one more thing, there's the Cinelli Lola bullhorn bars which are pretty similar to a chop n' flop, you could take a look at those too.
Hey, do you guys guys remove the little plastic disk on your back wheel?
Good memory, yeah, it did - this is the pic I always used to post. I got frustrated with them and switched to canti brakes
Big issue is that they required constant adjustment - the motion ratio is super low, so you've gotta set the pads suuuper close to the rim. Pads wear just a little bit, suddenly you're grabbing the levers all the way to the bars and still not stopping great.
And if you get grit somewhere and one pad starts rubbing mid-ride? You need a big-ass allen key and a 15mm wrench to adjust the spring tension. Lolno
I picked up an old set of XTR M900 canti brakes, stuck some Koolstop pads on them and they work GREAT.
Compass Switchback Hill, 650B x 48mm
Hello I also have a kona albeit a shit one
Dubs confirms it rides like a tank
Can anyone tell me what these holes are for? It seems like they would be eyelets for a rack but all the racks I've seen on the sides of the seat stay.
And also this weird shaped hole below the rack eyelet.
this one is just a normal little gap, it serves no purpose other than maybe "weight reduction" or some bullshit like that.
but the ones on the brake bridge, I've never seen anything like that.
My 2016 Diverge Sport A1
if you aren't poor (#nohate) you can buy a specialized awol , it usually eve ncomes with racks and some extra bike people steeze.
if your a little bit poor, they sometimes pop up used but not really often
nice picture. where is that??
I like it. And completely agree that you need to cut the steerer tube, to make it perfect.
looks neat. which model is it?
>pic related. My bikes. (Sorry for potato quality)
>from right to left: My tank, Maxxum with Tiagra. (was 80$) can absolutely take a beating.
>My commuter/the girlfriends bike when she joins me. A Trek Alpha 1.2 with tiagra/sora that was 230$ total.
>My roadbike. Merida Reacto 500 Ultegra. with 38mm deep section stock wheels and GP4S. I want to get better wheels when these are worn out. Only done around 4000km on it so far this summer, but its an absolute joy to ride.
1102009 here. Its a Specialized Tarmac Sport bought in 2014 with: 2016 Mavic Cosmics Elites, Ultegra 2017 brakes and a 2016 Specialized saddle.
Also i changed the stem for a 70mm one... Im getting old or something.
I really want a 90s mtb but the only ones selling here are manĺet sized.
You have to know my suffering.
That's exactly what's happening to me. They're all a size down from what i'm looking for. I want my late-night wobbles bike!
I also did some research and found the typeface used in the peeling decals on the top tube. Do I print these off and scrape off the old ones, or leave things as is?
lol i love amazon carbon, they were salty when i built pic related
Bought my first bike in probably 10 years, was amazed at how expensive bicycles are. Picked up a Marlin5 2 days ago and already clocked about 80kms. Love being able to roam on the road and then jump on the side walk and do as i please.
Beginner MTB and loving the fuck out of it, fits nicely next to my green motorcycle.
There are like 10 faggots who post their bikes every single fucking thread. Fuck off already.
Not him, but I used white bartape on a bike and it took about nine months to get filthy af, but by then it was already tearing apart at my favorite hand positions.
Filthy white bartape isn't actually a bad thing, though.
Dilute simple green and a rag works pretty good. The soft tape gets hard after a while, so I still change it out every 8-9 months.
Putting Ultegra groupset and Mavic Ksyriums on this bad boy after saving up during winter.
I wasn't ready for that feels trip. The early 2000's were a good time
>Ask for a quote from a bike shop to repaint my frame as I'm restoring a vintage road bike.
>"£90 to strip it to the frame and rebuilt it"
>Hmm that's more than I paid for the bike but whatever, it's really old and there's no way I can take it apart myself as a long of the bolts are rusted.
>"And £200 to repaint it"
Are they spraying it in fucking gold leaf or something?
And I guess while we're on the subject of Canadian-built bikes, I was just offered a Proctor, Proctor being a small builder out of Edmonton.
>tfw currently not enough space to take on another bike
What an unfortunate name
Bleach doesn't like steel, aluminum, carbon resin, or anything organic like possibly the tape and adhesive. I'll pass.
1400 miles later, here's that new tape after cleaning it. I missed a spot under the hood.
What colour should I spray my vintage Peugeot in?
Was originally going for black then I saw how great this white one looked.
New handlebars and saddle. Compact handlebars look kinda shit if you ask me, but feels nice, so that's how it goes.
I can't believe I got this lucky. Slightly too small but can't beat free and hardly any work to get rolling. Been sitting in a garage corner for most of life
Prep work my dude. Degreasing, stripping, cleaning, hole prep, and priming take a lot of time and effort. Not to mention time between coats, and finish work. You're looking at 3-4 hours not including finish work. And that's for one solid color. If you want multiple colors, then even more.
If you want cheap, strip and prep it yourself and bring it to a powder coating shop.
If I wanted something to bomb around on in my town would a dirt jumper be good? I want to go off some stair cases and do some drops from ledges and stuff? This is for sale close to me, is it worth it?
I also like the idea of a bmx but wouldn't it start to hurt my wrist after awhile? Especially if I'm going down stairs and doing drops.
>I also like the idea of a bmx but wouldn't it start to hurt my wrist after awhile? Especially if I'm going down stairs and doing drops.
on a bmx you position your body different than on a normal bike
you shouldn't have much or any weight on your hands, its all supposed to be on your legs, so you can absorb shocks and all
they do get uncomfy after a couple hours though
but for fucking around in a parking garage and shit they're pretty fun
Cannot wait for 1x11 with the sram gx
I need a new cassette anyway
There's no reason why you have to run with multiple gears, however they're useful for commuting, riding off road, and some street stuff like trials.
Weight difference won't be much, not enough to matter unless you doing lots of hops and tricks.
Are discs really all that better then pulls? I feel like it's another gimmick that is great to have but annoying to manage. Tell me if I'm wrong. I have 100mm travel forks I'm still happy with, but I do want to get some others in the 140mm range.
So forks then drive?
The biggest difference is that dick brakes function objectively waaaaaay better in wet/mixed conditions.
If you're only riding in dry conditions on entry-level trails; nah you probably wont notice a huge difference with disc brakes.
>Are discs really all that better then pulls?
Yes, especially hydros.
The reason why I'm telling you to replace the fork is because the right stanchion is fucked, and if it's been allowed to get in that state then the internals are probably shot too. I wouldn't step up to 140mm, maybe 120mm at most.
like a tank you say? Took this puppy 1500 miles in July.
thx mate. Here's one loaded from the road. Mustache bars+ fanny pack work so well together.
was hoping to go Denver>SomeshitholeinWV but only made it to Lexington KY. After a couple weeks tendonitis kept be from my 66/day goal but I still had a great time til KY. Fuck that state. Beautiful rolling hills, great riding but dry counties had be looking over my shoulder for DUI fuckheads. Hitched a ride back to Denver before I got smacked.
You are correct, it was a smart buy, and it is Castile, Spain. The bike is pretty new, bought it this year at 750 euro, it has 105 shifters/brakes/deraileur, pretty good deal for a bike with a nice unusual frame with lifetime warranty. It rides pretty well, yesterday was our biggest ride together, 170 km and 2km of climb, and it went really nice, I'm really happy with the bike, I know it's not a big deal for many people, but for me it's awesome.
Ya me parecia a mi ;-)
I think that its one of the best road bikes you can buy in terms of value for less than 1000€. The Rs500 chainset is almost no downgrade from a 105 and allows for easier customization of gearing.
Other good thing about the bike is that is so consistent overall that you can just ride the heck out of it without being constantly tempted to upgrade this or that.
I considered it but at last i bought something second hand for a bit less, and expended a bit more upgrading it xD
First (Childhood) Bike - 24in 1997 Gary Fisher Tyro
>> Bought for me by my grandpa, eventually given away to family friends. Used for riding around the neighborhood trails and over to my friends' houses.
Second Bike - 2001 Giant Farrago
>> Originally owned by grandpa, given to me second-hand when I went away to college, used as my college commuter, then donated to bike shop after he passed away.
- Move to NYC for work, stop biking for about 5 years because I'm scared of traffic -
Third Bike - 2014 Sports Authority ???
>> Honestly don't remember the make. Wanted to start biking again, no knowledge of what to buy. Immediately stolen after using a shitty cable lock, but honestly he probably did me a favor. That thing was a death trap, brakes gave out after one day of riding.
Fourth Bike - 2014 Jamis Commuter 2
>> Started browsing /n/ for advice and bought from my LBS, no more department stores. Awesome starter bike. Comfortable to ride, used it for everything for 2 years as I got experience commuting on city roads with traffic. Now my beater, but I lock it up with a kryptonite and an auxiliary cable. Not stolen yet.
Fifth Bike - 2016 Jamis Aurora
>> Moving on up! Currently my commuting and touring bike, bought from the same LBS as the previous one. I LOVE this bike so friggin' much. Learned how to start doing my own maintenance, and taken it on a few single-day tours but I hope to do my first overnight one this fall. The only criticism I have is that the rack it came with was a weird triangle shape that didn't fit any of my luggage, so I had to replace it with a Topeak. I'm thinking about getting a front rack for it also.
why do you have all those spokes on your front wheel? if you have different amounts front and rear, usually the front has less since it isn't supporting your body-weight. clearly it's for looks but that's stupid since your whole bike is really ugly-looking and you're just hauling a ton of extra weight in your wheel. shame, the frame and fork look like they were cool at one point.
>rides like a tank
Say no more ffam. I present the Schwinn Varsity, aka the "stayed almost exactly the same from the 60s to the 80s because you can't improve perfection"
>inb4 saddle too low
It's a 60cm frame and I'm a 6'0 manlet so I need to keep it that low
Just started having some issues with the rear cassette skipping the first 4 gears or so. Adjusting limits didn't help, and the derailleurs are fine. Probably time to get a new shifter that isn't some POS brake+shifter combo. Then I can finally use the other Speed dial lever I have laying around to match the front brake.
Also probably gonna get new rear tire, grips,
That's a real beauty.
does it have an SA AW hub?
I Really hope to see a 21 inch dDiamond frame once where I work.
not him, but I can guess:
>bike originally sells with drop bars
>drop brakes already connected and adjusted
>owner prefers mustache bars
>owner loosens lever clamp, slides levers off, lets them hang
>owner removes drop bar, installs mustache bar
>owner indifferent to spending more money on new levers, to re-running cables, to re-adjusting brakes
>owner slides existing brake levers onto new bar, tightens clamp.
tl;dr if it ain't broke don't fix it
you still get a nice forward hand position with the hoods that way; so: win. this is also Grant Petersen approved, for whatever that's worth.
>I got Ti bars to match the screws in my back
yeah its all about comfort on this build man. The 3" tires are good for just about anything. Even with the slicks I can go just about anywhere that isn't single track. Plus I got a bad knee and hip to match the back so I'm not fast anymore at all anyway. Perfect 1 bike for me atm.
Stick a motor on it, it won't help with top speed if you can already maintain 15mph (legal assistance limit in most places) but it'll give you a nice boost when climbing or accelerating.
Bingo. I just wanted to try out the mustache bars. I really enjoy them. Sold the bike and I regret it.
Pic is another bike I regret selling
Fresh from the /bbg/, got a new chinese saddle and new tires/tubes. The narrowness of the new saddle really makes pedaling easier. Will need new cables as front shifting is a bitch but rear shifting is ok.
Loving this thing, going to try commuting to work tomorrow for the first time on bike.
cool, looks solid. I'm not usually in the /bbg/ but I get happy when the board helps someone with a good bike.
>Will need new cables as front shifting is a bitch
Try squirting some lube with one of those little straw things (such as Tri-Flo, PB Blaster) into the lever pivots, the mech pivots, and then both ends of the housing while working the lever back and forth before you replace the cable.
after riding a lot to where it's second-nature, you may want a lower, more forward hand position; so, remember to experiment with that in the future but for now you look golden!
What do you all think of my new commuter?
First ride today and going to lower the handlebars a bit but otherwise was just how I hoped it to be.
got this for $40 and had to scrape a lot of rust off. I wanna un-fixie it eventually, any suggestions on groupsets that would work well?
Shits pretty popular
Wish I got the blue/white one for my wife when it was available, I had it in my cart but hesitated. The white ones are only $8.
I think I'm going to start looking for different bars already, my ass doesn't hurt anymore but my wrists do now. Would those bolt-on bullhorn-like attachments help?