>that post ride sock peel feel
>that i ordered a 3/4 zipper jersey by accident and now the only way its coming off is if i tear it in half feel
WTF IS THIS AAAAAAAAAAAAH
You know.. I'd think that if you really want a bike lock that really positively protects from theft, the right way to do it is to make the lock integral to the design of the frameset in such a way that if you destroy the lock, you destroy the frameset and thus the value of the entire bike. Couple that with wheelsets using bolt-on axles, using some sort of proprietary nuts that require a uniquely shaped tool, and that you can't just clamp onto with Vice-Grip pliers or anything like that, so that even if they cut through the chain/cable/whatever locking the wheelset to the frame, you won't be able to unbolt them and make off with them. Of course none of this would mitigate the ever-present threat of a frustrated thiefs' Crab Mentality act of destroying the bike because he can't take it.. and any bike designed this way would be bike-sharing-level, not anything high-performance. In the end the best way to prevent your bike from being stolen is still to not leave it anywhere out of line-of-sight, or even indoors anywhere someone can just walk off with it.
>check weather for commute tomorrow
Goodbye /n/ it was nice talkign to you
Elastomers on the seatpost instead of suspension forks. Dumb?
Never used one but i figure it is the same as using a soft saddle
>Elastomers on the seatpost instead of suspension forks.
It's not a one or the other. The seatpost is to keep your ass comfortable while sitting down (though it doesn't work because it's a dumb gimmick). Suspension forks are to keep your front wheel on the ground/retain traction on rough terrain, they aren't for comfort.
What are your thoughts/recommendations with turbo trainers?
It's going to start snowing soon.
Use one if you must, but it's always better to ride outside, even if you have to bundle up to do it. For many people riding indoors on a trainer is highly demotivating over the long run. Also you may not get the same quality of workout using one. Also by not riding outside you don't improve your bike-handling skills; all you're doing is turning pedals. Get one if you must but ride outside whenever possible.
Hey, guys. I'm gonna have to travel to uni soon and am thinking of buying an electric scooter. Its the same cash as a yearly bus pass and I can sell it at the end of keep it for another year. I usually bike around but 1.My bike is 15kg and I live on top of a very steep hill and 2)I don't have anywhere to put it in this new house. Is there a better alternative to the scooter for my purposes? I'd need to travel 3km in each direction and temperatures never fall below 7-8 deg.
I wish I could man, but as I said, there is nowhere for me to put it. Not even outside. I talked the landlord into letting me keep in in the hallway until I sell it. It's sold now, got 60gbp for a Vivelo Sky 2.0
Is there a panacea-type toolkit for bike repairs I should get? Like, is there a WD40 and Duct Tape combo for Biking that you lot take to heart? I'm fairly new to biking and would appreciate any advice.
I'm headed to grad school in 2 weeks and my only mode of transportation is going to be my bike and other people's cars.
a missing link, a tube, a co2 or pump and a multi-tool will get you out of most shit. make sure the multi-tool has a chain breaker. zip ties are good too and if you run presta get a valve converter and keep it on your keychain. I mtb and keep the link, core remover and adapter on there.
tubes, a patch kit, pump, Topeak Hexus multitool, and a few inches of duct tape wrapped around a tool/pump/frame. If you have a tire that rips through the casing like pic related, you can throw the duct tape on the inner side of the tire to prevent the inner tube from bursting through until you can replace the tire. Ripped casing = RIP tire
The Topeak Hexus is my favorite multitool. It has all the hex keys you need, tire levers, chain breaker, and spoke wrench. At home, a good 5Nm preset torque wrench is cheaper than an adjustable torque wrench and handles most of your bike torquing needs.
recumbent with fairing to increase aero. I would say it's more akin to driving, than riding but. Recumbents already have a straight line advantage over a road bike since the rider's back is held in position, one could push their body against the peddles increasing power at the crank. A faired recumbent is faster due to aero but once you add twisties or offroad usage, the benefits of a recumbent position is severely hindered.
The creators of velomobiles made them for one big reason, to reduce the amount of car commuters, not to compete with cyclists.
A velomobile can easily outrun a group of roadies, except in cities and alphine terrain.
Untrained individuals can easily reach 40-45 kph average in a velomobile. In a sprint you will reach 70 kph.
the velomobile in the webm is wide because the creators are Dutch and intended it for the Dutch market, and the Dutch laws state that bicycle has to be wider than 75mm to be able to ride on car-roads if there is also a cycle path. (otherwise you always have to choose the cycle path)
The DF velomobile (google it) is a lot less wide, lighter and faster and the most popular velo of the last 2 years. It's not hard to maintain 50.
It can never beat the maneuvrability and cheapness of a normal bike, and it's not intended to replace a normal bicycle. It's intended to provide an intermediate between a car and a bicycle. You are fully protected from the elements and you can go alot faster than a regular bike, but slower then a car (unless you drive on 50 kph roads, a velo can easily be part of traffic) And you don't have fuel costs or anything like that, and insurance is optional and cheap.
Velomobiles are very popular in the Netherlands because the cycling infastructure is great. Instead of wasting money on car and sitting dead in traffic, you can choose the much healthier and cleaner cycle paths and cycle highway systems. Yes, we have cycling highways, this is what they look like
Can we please have a thread for garbage truckts and street cleaners, preferably from the 60's-90's?
i used to drive a garbage truck and it was the worst job of my life
we had to clean out meth houses and shit and our boss was a dumbass and the trucks were all broken and shitty and the control didnt work right
and it wasnt a cushy mafia garbage union job instead we were the discount guys
Both would be 1x11.
If you were not concerned about the extra cost of the DI2, would you choose that or stay with SRAM Force?
Why? Why Not?
>cable actuated vs. motor driven
Cost is a huge deal, but if money is no object why on earth would you not pick DI2? DI2's competitor isn't Force, it's Etap.
I just wasn't sure if I should pay the extra $400 for DI2. This is only my second season doing CX and I am upgrading bikes and this was an option.
TCX Pro Adv 1 vs SuperX DI2.
I was going to go with the TCX as I have a Giant now, and the colour is the same as our team kits. Gay, yes, I know. The SuperX looks rad as fuck and has better wheels and the Di2.
Suck it up and get Cannondale then, right?
Is it possible to disassemble modern recessed bolt dual pivot caliper brakes in such a way that I can remove the mounting bolt and attach another one from an old bike? My bike doesn't take recessed bolts, and I can't get a hold of two front brakes so I would only need to drill out the front brake mount. The rear brake mount is solid metal (rather than plates) and I won't be able to drill it out.
Particularly these brakes, if anyone has owned them:
>no such calipers are available
This just means you haven't looked in the right place yet. Show us your frame, odds are you just need to visit a local bike shop/coop and they will have a giant bin full of old brakes that will work.
CSX's new CEO is getting rid of the hub-and-spoke model, instead opting for direct point-to-point, saving most shippers over two days time and running routes 7 days a week to compete with trucking.
He also said that coal is a dying industry and they need to get creative so that the company will still be OK without coal.
It's fucking over. Quicker, cheaper, and extreme flexibility. How can trucks even compete?
He's 100% right on the coal, but the CSX is vastly different compared to the IC, CN, or CP.
There are horror stories right now of some industries not getting a switch for several weeks and the STB getting involved is a serious sign of difficulties. I know a lot of railroaders are morons and exagerrate follies and successes, so I'd rather wait and see with Hunter's plans at CSX. He's definitely shaking shit up over there and I've heard from more than a few cry babies not liking the changes.
He's cutting everything he possibly can to justify his obscene compensation and raise the stock short-term. Nearly a thousand in management cut, (mostly useless, dead weight desu). Thousands more fired and furloughed from the rank and file (the ones who actually move freight). Yards closed, engines mothballed, customers pissed, and traffic crawling. He also lost a $300 million UPS contract. Fitting, as ol' Hunter thinks less is more.
He is literally throwing shit against the wall and seeing what, if anything, sticks. Every decision is knee-jerk and has unintended consequences. There's a reason the railroad is run the way it is, it's all been tried before. He has the drinkers of the Kool-Aid convinced that he's going to reinvent the wheel. In reality, his motive is pure greed and ego. Someone will have to rebuild CSX after he's cannibalized it back to "profitabilty" just like they had to with CN and CP after his scorched earth regime.
Do you have a problem with this machine, or something?
Not everyone wants to wade through traffic or go far from home sometimes to work the legs...
Man just imagine how her sweaty crotch smells like.
there's been a bike sitting locked outside my apartment building for the past 2 year and it had already been showing signs of abandonment by that time. the lower half of the frame is now overgrown with weeds and most parts have been stripped. It's nothing special but the frame is still in good shape and I'd love to refurb it for someone I know. Would you take it? There's a 0% chance of someone coming back to it and even if they did the landlord could have removed it at that point.
pic kind of related
i cant see a problem with it, unless it has a name or serial number on it id just take it and do it up and use it.
look at this way - either you get it now or eventually jamal will
blessed is the abandoned bike... i gave a nice wheel / disk brake upgrade to my roomates broken mountain bike from a dumper most of the time they have some serious issue which is why they are left there, 90% parts 10% functioning bikes in my experience
So I've been watching all kinds of fighter jet documentaries, and I have a question:
Why is the F-22 designated as a dog fighter?
It's fucking huge it could easily hold bombs.
In F-22 Lightning 3, one of the first missions was to drop a nuke.