Hi /gd/ I'm thinking about hooking up a silks creening

>silks creening

Silk screenning / Screen printing

>>246454
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDDE8VvViFo

Here's a tutorial. The supplies is in the description but should cost like 50-70$

you could make your own screens but it's just easier to buy it.
those all in one kits are real good for beginners tho.

>>246479
Are there any particular kits I should get? Or are most of them pretty much the same?

By the way, would like to know more about the lamps for exposure, anyone's got any good tips?

>>246454
>>246525
>>246526

How about you do some fucking research or do a course you slack cunt.
You expect someone to just spoon-feed you information like the juvenile minded fuck-wit that you are?

>>246536
why are you so angry, don't listen to this faggot OP.

File: untitled.jpg (50KB, 410x480px) Image search: [Google]

50KB, 410x480px

>>246454
>My budget is kinnda low, so I would like to start off with cheaper stuff, nothing fancy, just wanna print some nice shirts/posters.
I used to have a silk screening bench which I used mainly for making merch for my bands (pic related). I learned the hard way that if you won't be printing shit constantly, it's a lot cheaper to buy the frame with the design already emulsionated on it. The chemicals wont't last long and you'll have to throw them away if you don't use them.

>would like to know more about the lamps for exposure
Not sure what's the best option. I used quartz lamps which where cheap and worked fine. You will spend a couple of days of trial and error in order to get things like exposure time/light distance/amount of chemicals right.

It's a fun journey but a bumpy one.

>>246463
>>246536
fuck off faggots

>>246602
Thank's man! But from what I understand you can re-use the designs, and lateron just re-use the frames for other designs. What did you mean about the frames with designs already on them?

>>246567
Haha, yeah, they're just angry about people using forums the way they're made to be used

>>246454
bomp

File: A4_A.jpg (337KB, 2981x2480px) Image search: [Google]

337KB, 2981x2480px

>>246724
>you can re-use the designs, and lateron just re-use the frames for other design
Yes, however the design will lose definition with every wash. After washing the frame some times you will have chipped edges on your design and will need to clean it completly and re do it.

>What did you mean about the frames with designs already on them?
You can buy the frame with the design you want already on it for just a little more $$ than the empty frame. I'm not sure what kind of chemicals they use for this but the design just stays there without losing definition with every wash, it's kind of permanent.

>>247006

Ohh, now I get it!

Btw, do I have to rinse the frames after every single print, or just after every print-session?

>>247008
>do I have to rinse the frames after every single print, or just after every print-session?
every 15 prints or so it will start getting clogged and your prints won't look that good. That's when you need to wash it.

I work in a screenprinting factory and have thought about taking what i have learned here and starting my own business. In the long run i just dont see it being worth it. Doing it at a professional level requires a large amount of money, effort, knowledge. You can do it from home but dont expect professional results with your budget. Also dont do it in your room.... unless you like huffing chemicals and having your lungs exploding.

If you want equipment and supplies we order from here ryonet aka screenprintingsupplies.com

Any questions you have specifically i can answer for you.

What is your substrate that your printing on ..i used a wooden screen with the liverpool logo ect in red, screwed to a flat door on a woorkmate printed 500 shirts an sold them on motorway service startions ...made load's of cash...then found out it was eligal shirts looked great

>>246454
Watch literally any Ryonet video, I only order from them, theyre a great company!

>>246526
I don't even buy anti exposure bulbs, I just go down to a hardware store and buy yellow buglights, literally same thing, and cheaper.

File: 700.hq.jpg (50KB, 1400x792px) Image search: [Google]

50KB, 1400x792px

>>247354
>>247356
>>247023

Alright, sorry guys but had to go MIA for a while, got some questions and hope you're still here!

I live in Sweden, and it's kinda hard to find screen printing materials. Found some starter-kits, but they are all too fancy, and I dont have 450$ to spend on this.

Found a decent art supply store, and I'm starting to make a list of items that I need to start.

This is my list so far:
-30x40cm wooden frame for textile & paper
-rubber press thingy. 29cm
-photoemulsion speedball 781ml
-Diazo emulsion remover
-speedball paint, black 237ml

So what else do I need? I just want to print some single colored designs on my sketchbooks and patches/stickers.
I know that I still need to find a 1000W lightbulb, but isn't that about it?

>>248279
Ignore the lightbulb watt lol, I misread. I'll just get 250W

Ryonet has a decent single color starting kit for the price. They have some well paced tutorials on color separation and how to use their starting kit

>>248285
Yeah, but as I stated, I live in Sweden.
Ryonet doesn't ship to Sweden :(

Ok, got my kit ready.

Tried once, exposed for 25 min but nothing happend and my emulsion just washed off, trying a longer exposure time now.

When I mixed my emulsion with the small bottle that came along, it didnt really turn green, like I've seen on videos, but stayed relatively blue. Is this normal or did I totally fuck it up?

>>248279
Check this out. First thing I searched for. All you really need for less than 1000SEK.
artistica nu/shop/Screentrycks-Set/891
Although there is no light in it, however shouldn't you really only need to expose it to sun light for enough time? I've only used a dedicated bulb myself, but I don't see why it shouldn't work.

File: lol.jpg (31KB, 720x960px) Image search: [Google]

31KB, 720x960px

>>249406
Thanks for the help man!

Actually called them, but the set isnt for emulsion exposure, its a paint based set.

I bought everything from another store, and it turned out good, I just did my first print today. Failed miserably like 4 times, with a lot of things, and learned alot from sitting in my toiler in complete darkness for 7 hours lol.

I used a 200Watt bulb, and 45min exposure (30 cm distance between lamp & screen), could've used more. FYI there is no sun in Sweden during the winter, haha.

I got a few good tips that helped me today, on my first day, if anyone wonders!

Pic related- my ghetto setup

>>249414

Let me try to help...

There are some things you need to consider before starting, which you already have done.

1 - Graphics - your graphics program (Photoshop or Corel) need to be able to make vector graphics or convert raster to vector, a.k.a. just line graphics. Make sure you know how to do CYMK separations if you are doing multi color / multi screen shirts.

2 - Printer - I think one of the main printers you need is an Epson 4000 stylus, and that allows you to print your design on transparencies so that you get thick, black ink on them. Sometimes you need a program called a Ripper, and that is the printer driver that you use that makes the graphics super dark when you print on the transparencies.

REMEMBER TO INVERT BLACK AND WHITE IMAGES IN YOUR PHOTO EDITIOR!!!

3 - Light Table - Why do you need the printed images super dark on the transparencies you print on? Because you will be putting the transparencies on a silkscreen pretreated with a photo emulsifier that will react with the light in your light table. If you have pin holes in your silkscreen after developing it, then sometimes you can paint black light blocker over the parts on your transparency that light shows through.

-Light Table - Usually, with the proper equipment, about $200-400, you only need an exposure period of 45 seconds. If you have a shitty light table, take your transparency and put a dark paper over 7/8ths of it and move the paper down in increments so you can gauge how much time you need for a perfect exposure.

4 - Pressure Washer - After your silkscreen is exposed, take a pressure washer and use it to spray out the sections of the silkscreen that aren't exposed. You'd think you'd have to go easy on the screen but you can blast that fucker if you exposed it correctly.

5 - Put that fucker on a press and make sure you have each screen/color lined up correctly. It is helpful to put crosshairs on the top and bottom of your art so they print on your screen

>>249434

so that they line up on your shirt you're printing on. Rolls of white or black fabric can be bought that you can do practice runs on

6 - Shirts - Get a business license so that you get a tax ID number. Get an account with Gildan, and buy their shirts to print on. They are of the highest quality, colors don't bleed, they are 100% cotton and are preshrunk.

GOOD LUCK!!!

>>249414
Were do you live? Even though there might not be a lot of direct sun light, I do think the light you've got 10:00-13:00 should be enough. Although I'm far from an expert when it comes to natural exposure, so I might be talking out my ass.

>>249493
Sweden, I usually work during the night, so sleep till like 11-14.

To be honest, it's VERY rare to even get a few sunny days during the winter, usually grey/darkish. But I have a 200Watt lightbulb and it works, maybe not the best, but works. Tried it yesterday and I got a crisp exposure after 45min.

>>249496
Were in Sweden, din dumma jävel?
But go with the bulb. I'm sure it works as good as anything else.

>>249503
Stockholm, kompis.

Any suggestions for doing one-off prints? I'm tired of shitty quality Tshirts and want to make my own, but I'm not interested in selling them. I just want good shirts with good prints.

>>246454
CatSpitProductions on youtube, lots of videos and helpful information, learned a lot about how to set up artwork and colour separation from that guy

>>249766
is this still op? we told you ryonet if you're in US.

otherwise go for highest count mesh and print mostly black on white. I print my negatives at fed ex office because most printers wont print entirely black.

i wish we had a label called get gd kid

>>251217
OP is Swedish
>most printers wont print entirely black
You can fix this with a black sharpie but it kind of sucks.

>>251217
What does the mesh count actually do?