The one with all the tools you need.
Just ordered these
It's $50, I'm not expecting some state of the art quality tools. Besides, I rarely ever solder anything so I doubt I'll care. Judging by the reviews on both, it's $80 well spent.
Because when I'm without it, I seem to always have need of it.
Also these. They cost more than an entire cheap meter, but they're so worth it.
I think the one pictured in >>45670818 is among the best. Honestly though, Leatherman is great if you have no alternative, but a premium Phillips head screwdriver and set of pliers is 200% nicer to work with.
muh leatherman juice s2. such an awesome multitool
It helps by stripping the head.
It's not that hard to not over-tighten like a retard. The only concern is manufacturing, and we already have the tech to sense the torque and not over-tighten without having to rely on hacks like phillips cam-out.
I expect someone who is disassembling a consumer product is automatically forfeiting warranty and understands that they be not retarded.
If Torx were standardized, Torx would replace Phillips as an ubiquitous tools. Sort of chicken-egg, but not a really good reason IMO, manual screwdrivers are cheap as shit.
Many devices make you undo a screw to replace batteries, add or replace HDDs etc without voiding warranty.
PH is the standard for things consumers are allowed to fuck with. Torx and varients are for trained technician only stuff.
Yeah, but security torx could be used for shit they don't want touched
>PH is the standard for things consumers are allowed to fuck with.
and as a guy who's reamed out the heads of a gorillion phillips screw heads, boy do I wish the world had settled on flathead screws for consumer products instead.
PB and also Wera screwdrivers and ratchets are amongst the tools that I use most, both are superb to work with.
Oh yea, the bit sets here, too.
Wiha is also a very fine brand. I've got just a few bits from them, too, and they're no problem to work with.
Marginally less pretty / hard than the Wera / PB ones, though, but they're also like half the price... so usually, Wiha might be a better choice.
This NWS tool also has seen more use than other pliers that I have.
Something is very practical about this shape for my purposes, and the tool itself is excellent.
The same with these side-cutters, by the way.
For the most part, I use cheaper Chinese side-cutters for the small stuff and they're actually really quite good.
But this one does really well when there's something bigger to cut. It has increased lever force with the mechanism it has in the cutting head. Results in cutting power that is really good for an one-handed tool that fits easily into my toolbox (or sometimes, tool belt).
I'm pretty sure the ones I have are all made in Germany.
Wasn't even aware they had manufacturing in Vietnam. I wonder why... their bits seemed cheap enough already, anyhow.
Looks very Chinese, of fairly recent make (~10 years or less?).
It's a bit of an odd choice of tools, though... what purpose was the box sold for?
Generic Cat5 Network Lan Cable Crimper Pliers Tools
my leatherman skeletool
Leatherman Rebar is best for me.
Also have Supertool 300 but too big and heavy for what I need.
Other Leathermans, even the most expensive ones have very shallow philips bit driver which makes it unusable in around 30% of situations.
> Most useful tool ever.
Perhaps when you're fighting a gang of impact wrench wielding car mechanics.
But it's certainly useful. Just not THAT useful.
maybe because i bought it at Lidls for a £6(they have them every now and then)
Have this cheap chinese set from Lidl since europoor but it's of acceptable quality. Paid around 40€ for it.
>Other Leathermans, even the most expensive ones have very shallow philips bit driver which makes it unusable in around 30% of situations.
If you need that feature, a Victorinox tool of similar shape or a regular swiss army knife may be a better choice.
Philips #2 +-2 sizes is more workable on these.
Of course, the SwissTools are also comparatively heavy...
No offence but Swistools have horrible philips, it's just piece of very cheaply made stamped steel and nowhere near what leatherman rebar/supertool offers.
Sog also has nice philips but it's expensive tool.
Many of the more recent (10 years or less) Chinese tool gear is quite good, anyhow.
I use quite a bunch of them myself.
[Pic not mine, but I have and quite like that iron.]
> it's just piece of very cheaply made stamped steel
Eh, almost every Victorinox tool -including the swiss army knifes' and the kitchen knifes- is stamped steel.
I guess the steel is efficiently machined though it's not "cheap steel" as such - they use near perfect batches only. (Quite interesting Youtube videos exist on the production process.)
It doesn't prevent that basic design from working better than the Leatherman's tool, as far as I'm concerned.
Also, they do have some knifes with full-size Philips, like the current army knife. Maybe that might be an augmentation of sorts? I myself frequently carry both a Ganzo or SwissTool and a SAK, ultimately the SAK is more suitable for sawing and screwing and cutting, and the pliers work better for other tasks...
Certainly, I find myself also importing more and more tools from China.
[Another very helpful tool, a laser distance meter.]
Because it's called a Philips head screwdriver.
Not knowing is half the reason idiots strip screw heads, trying to use a too small/large size - or interchanging posidrive and philips.
Search engine (via toolguyd) says:
Apart from that, I'm actually swiss. They weren't available locally for me either.
I imported them from germany (and that typically costs more than for you to get something from Canada - it was worth it, though!).
Behaviour of flat screws is even crappier than the one of Philips screws. It's woefully inadequate even for hand tools. [Never mind power tools.]
I honestly wished all manufacturing companies would generally switch to at least Pozidriv or even Torx already...
Ah right, boxes. I love muh Sortimo / Bosch ones.
They cost a pretty penny, but they're really nice!
Pozidriv is terrible for power tools.
It might work for the average consumer and second fix carpenters and cabinetmakers - but it won't ever do for first fix or electricians or plumbers, etc, etc.
The bit and heads dtrip too easily when faced with rough woods and/or sheetmetal without pilot holes.
Torx suffers from similar problems on the bits (the screwheads themselves are pretty tough though) at a much higher rate than philips but it fares far better than pozidriv.
I know that Pozidriv isn't that good, but it should at least be used over Philips.
> without pilot holes
> Torx suffers from similar problems on the bits
IDK, they've lasted pretty long for me in private use.
And it'd seem to me that the ability to work faster with these is also kinda convincing - even if you had to pay for more bits, that's probably not going to outweigh the time savings anywhere in western countries...
Ah, and in my experience, Philips strip MORE OFTEN than Pozidriv.
Of course that is only if you use the right bits for both.
If you try to use the wrong (Philips) bits / heads with Pozidriv, you're going to strip it more easily.
But perhaps I'm really missing some factor here. Like that I typically do drill pilot holes into hard wood and metals - like, so not to risk extra tension on the wood from the screws, and all that.
Or that I'm typically using pretty nice bits and drivers that cost like $1-5 in retail.
These bad boys right here.
Fuck stripping wires with those retarded scissors. This is how an engineer does it.
>No pic related
What are you guys doing?
Yup, gotta love strippers.
Pic related, cheap (~$10 with shipping) Chinese strippers, also available in yellow.
There is more than one "cross" screwdriver. Phillips and Reed and Prince are the major types, and they are slightly different but enough that separate drivers can be worth having. If working on computers all you will see in crosspoints will be Phillips.
OTOH, there also is something about these strippers that makes me come back and use them.
Don't ask me why exactly. The Chinese strippers are fine... but these do something right - and I don't usually need the insulation.
Those don't look too bad.
It's these stupid shits I hate.
>Those don't look too bad.
They are not at all bad. Well, it's Knipex, so one would expect them to be good, and they are.
if you have some self-control with your force or adjust the screw, you can strip a big range of wire sizes very quickly and easily with these. Clamp, twist, pull.
But I can't entirely put my finger on why I intuitively seem to prefer them...
>screwdrivers (phillips, flat, torx and tube)
>dual welding antistatic wrist strap
>usb to micro usb
>deal with it glasses
Oh and yes, those are terrible.
Of course, you only learn that once you had something comparable...
>sringe with thermal paste
Most are okay and you can get cheap chinese ones that are good.
For amateur use, they are +- the same.
However, I think highly of Hirose Cat6 connectors and therefore prefer to use the ones designed for them. (You can also crimp them with normal tools, but it takes typically one extra step with pliers).
You might consider using these, too.
ment dual wielding
its just say if the voltage is ok, if its ok, it will light up, if not, no light. not that good, but also not that bad.
Here's the model I use for the crimper. Was like $20 or so.
That's certainly ~twice as expensive as non-Hirose oriented crimps of the same quality (okay but not really pro quality), but also only half the price of the cheaper pro quality crimps.
And Hirose ends up looking and working really good rather easily. So I think it's a pretty good choice overall.
Since you probably just are putting together your kit, don't forget the $5 Chinese signal tester (or better), it'll potentially save you a lot of time.
Yep, they cost more. I think I paid about $0.5 per piece.
However, it's Cat6 proper. If you stick that on a Cat7 cable, the signal is extremely good even next to a lot of power lines and so on.
> ment dual wielding
So... no soldering / welding? You're using this so you can get electrostatic discharge insulation during computer assembly without any powered tools involved, then?
Never had any problem with that, personally...
> its just say if the voltage is ok, if its ok, it will light up, if not, no light. not that good, but also not that bad.
Ah. Okay. That doesn't interest me quite as much (the one time I wanted to know in a decade and dozens of PSU, I used multimeter), but I can see how that might be useful when you assemble a lot of computers.
yes, despite i work with shitty dells or lenovos laptops or desktops.
if my boss catch me without one, he will kill me.
so as a joke, i use 2.
no need for power tools to fuck up something with static.
static can generate a shock of 30v in a single discharge. and kill sensitive parts.
i ruined a videocard from an alienware mx17r2 because of this.
>need to replace a failing videocard for a client.
>dissasemble everything to reach videocard.
>take out broken videocard.
>take new videocard out of the bag.
>put everything back up.
>no video signal.
>beeps tell me "its the videocard"
>put back faulty videocard.
>works like shit, but it works.
>client is a casual manchild.
>tell them that the part came DoA (dead on arrival).
>call dell action center.
>reschedule it for another day with another videocard.
>this time with the wrist.
>change it in 2 minutes.
>asseble a lots of computers
pretty much this.
Almost forgot, my handy little multimeter. This one I cannot manage a day without at work.
BTW here is how my hastily done first time Hirose cable turned out. Pretty neat. The cover conceals ugly insulation removal and all that...
Always good to wear twice the protection, too, eh.
>nobody posted this yet
You disappoint me /g/
I wished I had one of those handy things occasionally.
I'm making do with a multimeter + two field detectors (one short-ranged pen-type, one digital one).
imagine a skeleton made of tools.
would be an awesome enemy in a game.
>i think i missed some screws guys...
having an impact driver and drill in the the same unit is a godsend
I find it odd that professionals don't typically have a better variant of such field detectors, though.
Was kinda strange to watch (much more skilled) electrical installation pros guess where the power wire are in this household without whipping out something like this or a wall imaging device or something like that...
but im in southamerica.
nice shithole i chose to born.
i want something like that for christmas! the old one that worked perfectly just broke. in fact, the motor and batteries wroks fine, but the case was totaled.
and the Bosh made in thailand i bought a couple of years ago is complete garbage you can't imagine...
so either i'm picking a Makita, or a Metabo for christmas.
It's amazing people this stupid exist.
otherwise, a nice set of facom screwdrivers/tweezers, a soldering iron and a 'scope.
you will never know, some damages are latent, and wont show up untill years later.
its a mix of the floor (carpet or not), your shoes and humidity
Recent Bosch are better. But like Metabo, I'd probably not go for them right now. They had QC issues and a lot of bad decisions in the last few years, so... it's a conservative "nah" from me.
Despite the fact that I love the Bosch/Sortimo boxes, too.
The Makita / Milwaukee / DeWalt ones are what I currently find interesting.
you will never know, some damages are latent, and wont show up untill years later.
Cant get my head around how people cant see this.
i have a notebook who has been working for almost 7 years.
i also recently upgraded cpu from a 1.7 dual core to a 2.5, and from 1gb of ram up to 3 (beacuse xp) and it still kicking ass.
imagine if some mother fucker did the same as i did, and my laptop died at the second year?
here there are rooms full of dead hp laptops, and i think i know why.
I see. But isn't it an option to just pirate copy the shirt, then?
Quite many of the smaller cordless drills also are pretty powerful little beasts now.
Dem batteries can release some serious power and charge / discharge quickly these days...
i was thinking about that.
i saved the image and when i reach home and after 9000 hours in paint, i will have the template to stamp it.
i like that.
who are you working for?
the bottom one looks like an ancient as fuck floopy external drive.
the upper one, looks like an oscilloscope.
what is that? a server board of some sort? I can see 4 ram slots, and what appears to be an intel socket. I can tell it is intel because of how the locking mechanism works. Is it a post testing board of some type?
My dragon dildos are essential, I would be very unproductive without them.
i have no clue what it is.
found it here in a gore thread.
someone looked a aligator dick, and made it bigger... i think
I assume they molded animal cocks to make these. At least some of them, luck the horse looking one... And maybe the other ones had spikes and bumps and shit added to them.
always carry with me
>why in the hell do you call it a "phillips screwdriver" when it's just a regular cross screwdriver?
There are two types of "cross" screwdrivers in common use:
- Philips (on the left)
- Pozidriv (on the right)
Using the wrong type (or even the wrong size when it's a Philips) leads to stripping.
Learning the difference and carrying a complete set of Philips and Pozidriv screwdrivers/bits saves a shitload of trouble and frustration.
Do they like it more than recycling?
Because that was the one thing I noticed on my last trip to Germany.
They have 6 or 7 different bins now, with a long list of instructions to deduct what part of your waste goes where.
>4 litros de cepita de manzana por dia...
no sabes como me quedo el orto.
igual antes era peor
>4 litros de cocacola por dia.
al menos no los tenia que comprar.
saludos de quilmes
from what ive been lurking here.
its for fake cum.
Torx set, motherfucker.
Picked one up today, got sick of almost everything people ask me to fix having some Torx shit on it somewhere..and I got sick of taking a drill to it and getting them out that way..
Pic related. Sorry for shitty image. iPhone.