It’s starting to get cold out, time for another Techwear General.
This thread is for discussing techwear with your peers on /fa/
It can include but is not limited to a number of aesthetics and brands:
• Tech Ninja/Cyberpunk (ACRNM, ACG, Guerrilla Group, Y-3)
• Activewear (NikeLab, Adidas, Gyakusou)
• “Gray Man” (Unobtrusive) (Veilance, Outlier)
• Outdoors (The North Face, Patagonia, Arc’teryx)
• Military (Arc’teryx LEAF, Triple Aught Design, Surplus)
Post news, inspo, and fits. Start flame wars, berate each other anonymously and have fun.
Techwear Discord (chatroom) link:
I'll start with dumping some long coat pics.
Shouldn't have made this thread OP, techwear is dead remember?
Anyways, anyone have experience with Nau? Found pic related for an okay price, I guess I just need a go-to winter jacket. I'd rather go with Veilance but I'm too broke.
down, when very high quality, is best. however, it does not respond well to prolonged moisture an people are put off by possibility of animal cruelty
You guys might laugh but I just picked up this. So fucking nice. Can have it so it heats the entire jacket or just pockets. Lasts about 6 hours. Plus it has 2 USB ports and a flashlight. I also appreciate that it's not to gaudy with giant wrenches and shit all over it like most other stuff they sell.
Found some info.
>Back in 2000, Levi’s produced the world’s first commercial wearable electronics garment jacket – that looked like an extension of a slide rule pocket protector. The ICD+ jacket served as portal for all the tech essentials of the time; specialist pockets for MP3 players, cell phones cables, and a microphone and earphones built into the collar. Touch the collar and your phone flickers on. Tap your pocket and the CD player comes to life.
thinking about copping this jacket cop or not
Last week I was blessed by the gods and got that white Nike ACG jacket from last year for fucking £70 in an outlet. I was thirsting for it heavy last year when it was £500+ but so glad I waited. Makes you wonder how wide their profit margins are but I'm guessing my local outlet just fucked up.
There's really four main types of fill insulation going on.
Down compresses down really small and traps heat like a motherfucker, it'll be the warmest for given weight and bulk. It's also extremely durable; a down insulator has a useful life of decades. The down itself doesn't really wear out, it just might leak out the shell fabric or the shell fabric wears out.
Down does not insulate when wet; you can die this way. This goes even if the outside fabric is waterproof, because you'll be sweating into it, so it's not best for high activity. A waterproof outside makes it harder for the sweat to get through the down. Recently, people have been treating down with water repellent and that mitigates but doesn't eliminate the issue. Down also requires special care and, if it does get wet, takes forever to get usably dry.
Down usually comes specified at a "fill power," which isn't really how warm it is, more like how efficient it is at warmth for the given amount of it because of how it's packed in. 650 is standard, 750+ is excellent, anything under 550 is trash and won't even be labeled*. You'll see some very high end stuff with low-ish fill powers for the price, but there's fairly complicated but proper design reasons for that I won't get into.
* Since this is /fa/, I feel the need to mention that not everything unlabeled falls in that category. Fashion houses usually don't bother but use good down; Uniqlo's Ultra Light Down is always IIRC at least 600 and is a genuinely decent budget option.
Oh, also: down being really compressible means it won't insulate for shit when it's under pressure, e.g. underneath backpack straps.
To deal with the drawbacks and risks of down, people often use loose, short filament synthetic polyester insulation. This is pretty good stuff, insulates even when wet, and the best stuff is about as warmth:weight/bulk efficient as 550 down, and it's cheaper.
The main problem is durability. Whenever it's compressed, it's damaged slightly, even if you're leaning against a wall or something. Over time, its ability to insulate breaks down. Supposedly the good stuff lasts five years, but in real use it only goes about two winters. If you're a total casual whose use case is going from building to car to parking lot to building with as many layers as you want, it doesn't really matter that the jacket gets colder every year to a certain point, but it sucks if you use it /out/ or in an urban area or whatever.
There's also continuous filament synthetic polyester insulation, and this stuff is the shit. It's basically wadded sheets of long polyester fibers. It's slightly less warmth/weight efficient and compressible as the loose, short filament polyester fill, and slightly less durable than down, but for an all-around, not special purpose insulator, I think it provides the best balance.
Because we can't have nice things, few jackets have it, the main use is in sleeping bags.
Two more things to note: it has a slightly more rigid drape than down or short filament insulation, which is part of why people use it less but it's *fine*, you'd never look askance at it. It also doesn't require quilting to make it not fall to the bottom of the garment like down or short filament insulation does, so construction can be more simple and/or weather resistant, and the design can have cleaner lines. Pic related, from Acronym, uses Climashield Apex, the best of this stuff.
Finally, there's a new class of synthetic insulation, usually called "breathable insulation" or "active insulation" or something like that. It's technically continuous filament, and shares the durability, but instead of trying to emulate down, it's very similar to fleece. Instead of trying to get the most warmth in the lightest weight and smallest space, it tries to both trap heat in when you're not active, and let heat and sweat out when you're moving. It's designed to be a single, no-fuss, keep-it-on-all-the-time in stop-and-go activity – originally it was invented for US special operations soldiers to wear under body armor and load bearing equipment they couldn't take off to adjust layers while in the middle of shit. If you're cool with layering in windy, low activity conditions, it's extremely practical for all-around use.
Not everything badged "active insulation" is this stuff, some of it is short filament stuff designed differently but with the same goal.
Finally, you'll see unusual stuff from time to time – e.g. wool used instead of polyester, heavier but comparable to continuous filament insulation. The wool's more odor resistant. Some extremely non-technical jackets use cotton in the same way, which really doesn't have any advantages.
Hey guys, I need some help deciding on a pair of shoes to match with these Binding Pants i got from index. I like a more relaxed style with hints of technical pieces. Right now i'm between the nike air rifts and the converse chuck 2's with mesh backed leather. I feel like the rifts may be too much but i've seen some fits online that are very relaxed and casual that look really good with them. If anyone has any better recs let me know.
Pic related: Rifts. They have that two toe design
Finally another techwear thread I've been waiting. What do you guys think of white mountaineering? They got some pretty interesting prints,
This is no lie pretty dope
Dam I wish I found some ACG or gyak at an outlet maybe I'll start going to them more often.
id on jacket pls
Out of the 2 I'd go with the rifts but I think some air prestos, sock darts, or acrnm af1s would really nice with those pants
I have a blocktech parka. kept me dry for 30 minutes in moderate rain. blocks wind well too. was good for $60 on sale. looks ok too but the hood isnt designed very well when worn up
Ok, cool. I don't have enough money for ACR AF1s but I would rather get something that not every other tech junkie has, like the prestos and sock dart. es._.ke recently modded some darts that gave me some inspo so I think I might mod some vans or something
>“Gray Man” (Unobtrusive) (Veilance, Outlier)
What is "gray man"? Just simply someone who wears a ton of gray pieces all at once?
Genuinely very curious, by the way.
Does anyone have any gray man inspo? Or links to gray man sites?
>its a william gibson term
No it isn't, it's common term in security and other such businesses
And it's not really 'low key' it's literally blending in an looking like someone that's hard to remember, you want to obscure as much as features as possible while still looking like you aren't actually hiding anything.
On unrelated note I still find it hilairous no one even mentions the brands that do the acutally most technical and functional brands in these threads.
The 'outdoors' brand list is especialyl funny as it just shows people don't actually do any research in to the brands or technical clothing, it's just the 3 meme brands they see people mentioning on fashion discussion forums.
>it's common term in security and other such businesses
stopped reading right there lol
Learn to write English and using generalizations like "other such businesses" makes you look really dumb btw :)
>The 'outdoors' brand list is especialyl funny as it just shows people don't actually do any research in to the brands or technical clothing, it's just the 3 meme brands they see people mentioning on fashion discussion forums.
>TNF and Patagonia make clothes that have taken explorers and mountaineers to Everest and back
Wonder what triggered this little reddit kuck so hard?
Oh I see, thank you.. Wm. Burroughs also used "gray man" in that same sense of being so bland as to be invisible and impossible to recall in detail. I would guess that's probably where Gibson picked up the phrase. Anyway, for some reason I was thinking it was just someone who likes to wear outfits with a gray palette.
I don't actually know the proper words in English for the different businesses so I generalized it like that, it's most common in security, especially in stuff like protecting single targets while undercover. Weird thing to get butthurt though, I think I communicated my point still, don't you think?
What I meant is no one ever even mentions any other 'outdoorsy' brands in fashion forums, which is why that list contains only those 3, as people don't bother to do research because it's easier to repeat things people have just said in the past. But I feel like that's one of the biggest issues of techwear in especially, people are close minded as heck to what you are supposed to wear and what brands to wear.
Not to mention discussing about the matter is impossible as people become hostile immediately you mention anything negative, which is weird as fuck, I mean obviously I hit too close to home because people got mad but why do you have to take that comment so personally is beyond me.
>I mean obviously I hit too close to home because people got mad but why do you have to take that comment so personally is beyond me.
how could anything you said "hit too close to home" to anyone? you just talked yourself up. your posts are shit and people are shitting on you more, which triggers you to get even more defensive
There are ton of outdoor brands that you can find lot of great individual pieces and some that even as a whole work great for techwear, Fjällräven for example falls to the very similar 'heritage' category as Patagonia, on the other hand there are contemporary Swedish outdoor brands, like Houdini sportswear that has more techy look to it.
Then something like Oakley and Burton are arguably doing the number one technically most advanced clothing at the moment, the brethability and waterproofnes of their shells are pretty much above anything else on the market, are light as fuck, don't obstruct your movement the least while still having very contemporary and minimal look. Ski and snowboard brands also make some of the best midlayers no contest because they have been doing them for ages with performance in mind while retaining price point that their customers still can afford.
And people seem to be trying to find techy cargos all the time, which are the bread and butter any hiking brands, Norröna, Lundhags, Haglöfs and Bergans just to name a few. All of the mentioned brands have several models to choose even and at different price points, because they are made for hiking, lot of them also have ways to adjust the pants to customize the fits.
>Contribute to the thread or fuck off.
I'm starting to start discussion here but like I already mentioned it's hard because for some reaosn people are super hostile and take posts like that personally which is silly.
>mention people are too lazy to research and just jerk it to the ready established brands they see mentioned on fahsion forums
I feel like that is the case
>your posts are shit
Hey at least I'm talking about the subject and trying to start a discussion, you are just sitting here insulting me which I feel like is brining even less to the thread.
you are focused on snowboarding and skiing shit in a techwear thread which is focused mostly on urban settings. you'll look pretty stupid walking around in burton gear in a CBD dude. don't you think so? mixing in outdoor brands here and there like a shell or something is one thing. advocating crap like Bergans is another...
>number one technically most advanced clothing at the moment
Thanks for the opinions bud
>you are focused on snowboarding and skiing shit in a techwear thread
Partly, due to zero exposure ever to any of those, also hiking brands and general outdoor brands.
> you'll look pretty stupid walking around in burton gear in a CBD dude
I highly disagree, they are making minimal looking simple stuff, their jackets aren't that different from say TNF or Arc'Teryx gear. And this is sorta what I'm talking about when I said people are close minded when it comes to techwear, you immediately claim it looks 'stupid' because it's not something that's commonly on your radar in the context of techwear. Do tell why Bergans is shit too, just another outdoor brand among others, they make simple black technical clothing akin to TNF or Patagonia, I don't see why it's any worse or better other than having less brand regocnition especially in 'techwear community'
Damn fucking roasted me man.
/fa/, what are the warmest rain proof pants I can afford? My price range is $250-300 max.
Need this for actual purposes of working in the field, but I want to look good after work as well. Going to be packing a very minimal wardrobe so flexible is ideal.
>tfw you can't be tech no matter what you do because you are 5'6" and have enormous 22 inch shoulders
I wish I could be tiny like an asian.
You can't layer anything if you're me. And you can barely find jackets that are flattering. A lot of the times I need to buy a Large or XL jacket just for my shoulders to fit. It looks stupid because my waist is a medium, so the jacket looks oversized and overly long in that area.
Where can I buy tapered techwearish cargos that aren't $900?
I'm looking at the newest batch of ACG cargos also but those aren't out yet and cost over $220 probably.
Anything more affordable?
Imo Veilance usually has relatively timeless design which makes older products relevant and cheaper due to being older seasons. Fairly easy to find cheap used as Veilance doesn't have a great resell value.
thoughts on the nikelab transform jacket? i've always liked techwear but never gotten into it because my wardrobe doesn't really match it, this seems like a good jacket to incorporate into some fits to make them more techy
also just seems like a good everyday jacket for school and such, is it worth the £275? it's sold out in the black cw but i like the blue one
Ikr, check your outlets. I've never seen any Gyak but there's almost always some older ACG in the form of sweats/bottoms. For what it's worth, that coat didn't seem to sell too well in the UK like it did in the US, but still worth a try.
I haven't been able to afford anything yet, but they pop up in sales and on Grailed/Styleforum/etc. fairly often. But if you're an XS / 28W like me then good luck, those sizes ALWAYS get bought first. It's a casual menswear line using the same technologies of a renowned outdoor brand; I've never read anything bad about Veilance in terms of quality and performance. And supposedly Arc'teryx has a pretty good warranty/replacement policy. I'd definitely avoid paying full price when possible, but either way as long as you care for the garment and have a good use for it then it should be a solid investment.
Might be good to find and tailor a pair of Levi's Commuter Cargos. I have a pair and they're decently waterproof but pretty heavyweight. Definitely a F/W piece. Just be sure to tailor them, I haven't bothered with mine yet but they definitely need some tapering to mimic ACG/ACR stuff.
I liked the last season's better. I twas in goretex while this is cotton or wool or something.
It will look dope with some ACG pants or something but they have one of these sanjuro/jinbei things every season. Imma hold out for one in goretex
so my friend gave me some slim fitting pants that look like shit on me since I gotta skeleton like frame. not even skeletor level.
wondering if theres a way to taylor the pants to look similar to P-10s. All I know is they got some knee articulation, not sure if they got any other fancy seams
standing awkwardly alone in a corner hugging your drink between sets, while everyone else is outside making friends, slowly killing themselves and putting the final touch on their fits with the eternally effay gestural art of smoking, for no reason other than because your schoolteachers told you it's not worth it and your mom would be disappointed in you isn't cool.
>thinking u looking cool while smoking
I've met All Saints workers with more style
having to use cigs as a medium for conversation is pathetic, just talk to your friends regardless if you smoke. art of smoking? No, I don't do it because it's a waste of money and a major risk to your health. Do you think all of the scientific and health research is a conspiracy? Are you a tobacco shill? Smoking because not doing it is not cool is stupid. I have a friend/roomate who smoked a pack a day and now he's 3 months without a single smoke and he talks all the time about how cringey and self destructive it was, not to mention the $$$ it costs.
smoking doesn't make you look cool, it is cool. and I'm just saying it's a convenient way to meet people, it's a congregation. it also segregates your day which is signifacnt. it's hard to understand that structuring without making a habit of it.
I take breaks a couple times a year with no trouble, not counting the 2 day break I take following any nasty hungover, I don't know what's wrong with people who can't. every cigarette I smoke is a choice, and it's one well worth making. and if you were half as intelligent, stylish and cool as I am, you'd be making that same choice, like everyone relevant in modern history did, but your basic ass is too scared to even give it a chance. too bad
also, yes, the health issues surrounding cigarettes are severely overstated. they still have yet to prove much anything with certitude. the association between cigarettes and lung cancer stems from nothing more than an increase in lung cancer in the 20th century correlating with an increase with cigarettes - yet they still haven't been able to prove it with any certitude after 50 years chasing the beast (one conveniently ignoring the obvious answer of city pollution),
instead fudging it with publishing statistically insignificant risk indicators; and not a single study pointing towards cigar smokers being any more susceptible, nor anything less than 1 pack/week (smoking more than that is correlated with low-income, which is at higher risk and more urbanized in general). ironically any expansive meta study on second hand smoke and lung cancer, usually tested by looking at spouses of smokers or smoke-heavy workplaces like bars, turn up a stronger negative correlation than positive, aka SHS prevents lung cancer - but it's at the same meaningless rates.
I don't know if you want to call it a conspiracy, but yes, there is a lot of lying and deceit surrounding the anti-smoking crusade - you are aware that the "smoker's lung" you were shown in highschool is a total lie, right? it's a dyed pigs lung - and there is a clear cast of vested interests in regulating (but not banning) smoking, which does include big tobacco, who profit off the limitations just like gun pushers do off gun regulations, as well as obviously the federal government from taxes and expanded power and plump funding for a host of shady activist organizations. but I wouldn't call it a conspiracy when no one's necessarily hiding anything, it's more just gov propagandandizing.
but in any case, that doesn't matter, I'd still smoke if the whole narrative WHO pushed was true. It's still no worse than the drink, speed, e & k I indulge in, though only the most former's more often than I smoke.
Did anyone else read the new Grailed Master Class on ACRNM? It was written by Techwear legend 1000Deaths and was probably the most inspiring fashion article I ever read. I never understood the brand before but I am definitely going to make an investment in some pieces now. Given their constantly appreciating value, it would be stupid not to at this point.
>standing awkwardly alone in a corner hugging your drink between sets
What aren't you getting? I'm not a degenerate fucking scumbag so I don't go to nightclubs or smoke or drink alcohol you fucking loser.
Enjoy your lengthly and painful death at the age of 50 my smelly friend
Help me lads.
Should I take the dive and buy a J1A-GT? Just got an increase on my card. I'm a little scared to spend that much on a single piece though. Is it worth it?
yeah I wish I could sew a cobra belt onto some nylon I wonder how no one thought of that before he did, not even the manufacturors of the buckle themselves forsaw it being used in such a way
How would you do tech formal/semiformal, guys? I'm an ESL teacher, and I bike to the school every single day, so naturally I want some commuter techie stuff that keeps me warm while cycling, but it's also a very uptight school, so I need to look crisp and formal. What do, /fa/? Thinking about copping some of that Outlier, but it's still quite casual for me. I looked into Veilance but I would prefer to keep my kidneys and pay for something more affordable.
Help me guise
nah i wouldn't say the look just like jeans or chinos, the material drapes weird and is slightly shiny, looks very close for sure but not something's off about my SDs for a jeans/chinos look.
I hear what you're saying, but money isn't the issue in deciding whether or not I purchase it.
The reason I mentioned credit increase is because for big purchases of any kind (500+ usually) I use my credit card and pay it off fully within the month/bill cycle. Helps build my credit.
I have pants from the first last year's winter release, I like them, material and construction is pretty good, wouldn't say they are anything special in that sense but I cycled in them a lot and I haven't blown the crotch out so yeah pretty good
If returning them is going to be easy for you then no, I know the first pair I brought surprised me with the sizing and I don't know if it's changed this year and the small definitely seemed to go first, the small I bought fit more like medium at the waist. Soo, if you take a small be prepared for a decent search if you don't want to buy them now, I got lucky and found 2 pairs on eBay at like 40% retail so I've got 4 pairs of them now, just need to get around to dying some of them
Yeah, I would say so, all the seams are taped and I'm pretty sure they used French seams throughout too, they do stack quite a bit and the water proofing is iffy at best (but you can just nikwax cotton proof to fix that) you might want to add belt loops but that's up to you
I was wondering the same thing. I have cargos from last year, the button catch started coming unsewn (still holds though), they fade pretty easily even after one simple soak in bucket of water, and I don't like the drawstrings. the fit is great though, especially the taper.
I'm 6'2" 160lbs and I bought size small which is slightly too big around the waist still but not enough to fall down. length could be a little longer on me.
Nike has smalls in 3 colors right now.
from what i can see theres nothing too complicated tailoringwise, if youre gonna taper your pants remember to first seam rip the heming stitch and roul out the hem and hem them again after you taper them, i recommend tapering by the inside as its going to be les noticeable if you srew up, a neat trick is to taper the diagonally wich makes the lower leg stack a bit when worn.
good luck with sewing
Any tips or fits on how to wear these? I fell in love with these pants a while ago and instantly copped them to later realise I find them hard to pair with my not so techy wardrobe..
Idk yet man, still waiting for them in the mail :/ taking forever to ship. I like a more laid back tech wear so I plan on wearing them with some stans/sandals and an oversized sweater sometimes. Also a beanie for max lax
I'm selling gg pants and nike flyknit mercurial
i dont agree at all, i feel like the prices have gotten up on both labels, while the pieces have gotten bland & boring compared to the former seasons
I'll admit that nothing will beat the autumn monks gyakusou collection but this year has been very soild in comparison to the last few.
Nike lab with ACG/Gyak/and acrymn has been better than Y-3 lately. I feel like y-3 is kind of stale
yeah the last noteworthy piece i can recall was the NOCI
they also sell it at indexammo.com. Here's the link bother: https://indexamo.com/collections/shop/products/passing-jacket-in-sulfur
They have this cool modular vest that I'm thinking about getting. Being a college student doing work study does pay well enough though :/
>I feel like y-3 is kind of stale
yea some of ss16 is just off-white-tier graphics but on technical fabrics.
have to say the aw14 has pant-fits reminiscent of lemaire, which is nice.
depends on how much you're willing to let them go for and what size they are famalam
what mainly has me puzzled are the seam around the knees and back and inner thighs as u can see in pic related.
it also looks like the outer seam going down to the zipper is curving
what do you guys think of these chuck boots? Thinking of pairing them with my index binding pants
If you live in America most people will consider you lower class if you smoke, I hope you know this. I don't care how much you spent on your overpriced ego inflating clothes, I and most people I know will consider you lower class and trashy for smoking cigarettes.
jeans are not tech because they suck dick for anything except maybe durability. no stretch, cant train in them easily, uncomfortable, no water resistance. lots of better options out there
its an anatomical knee, all of those seams are shaping darts, its going to be hard to replicate just by looking at the pic, but in most cases they serve the purpose of making the shape of the pants closer to the shape of the leg in its natural position, which is whit knees slightly bent. definetley not something you can replicate when alterin old pants, you can buy some fabric and do some tests, but things like developing patterns of these kind take quite some time and techical skill
Just got done tapering some trousers, the goal was the p10 kind of cut. Going to add a DWR coating soon
yeah I did, I've done a few before and I just went for it with guesswork the first time.
Basically just put the pants on inside out, and pin them on the outside from the ankle up to the knee til you get the fit you like. If you're feeling brave you can turn them the right way round and try them on with the pins in but you might stab your legs lol.
You can leave the pins in and take them out as you sew, I prefer to use tailors chalk then take all the pins out before sewing.
You can see the shape that I sewed here, it's in an r-shape curve sort of, I did end up taking them in a little bit more than this line shows.
Looking for some tech oriented headgear.
What do you guys think about this arc'teryx leaf merino wool beanie? With some shell hood it should keep me warm and dry I guess.