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/pfw/

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Thread replies: 147
Thread images: 45

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paris fashion week ready-to-wear spring summer 2017is halfway done. discuss your favorite collections and your thoughts on them

posting dries van noten ss17
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>>11816769
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>>11816770
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>>11816774
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>>11816779
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>>11816784
I found the collection to be very clean but also having degree of playfulness to it which, I think, is common to Dries' work. Perhaps its by how he adds "old" styles of prints/embroidery to really modern garments or garments that are at least cut in a sense that they would exist in this day and age (see the bomber look or the two-button blazer)

Aldo, there's a lot of long silhouettes and the embroider/prints really helps guide the eyes from top to bottom or vice versa

The frozen flowers was also a really novel idea which made the show much more beautiful as it aged
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The SS17 collection ’SAGOI’, is an homage to an old canal house in Amsterdam with beautifully contained ‘Delft Blue’ tiles dated 1667. Liselore Frowijn has interpreted the iconic hand-painted ceramics by tracing them with her signature style, both painting the illustrations directly on silk and using blown-up graphics in bold overall prints.
The illustrations display mythical scenes of an escape to a pastoral lifestyle of farmers in the Dutch 17th century. Research on these tiles’ topography brought Frowijn to the Japanese island of Kyūshū, where Dutch-Japanese exchange started around 400 years ago. Liselore Frowijn visited the Japanese island this summer to work with local artisans in the indigo-workshops on developing several textiles and implementing techniques that have been used for decades.
Next to the abstracted pastoral scenes, the pieces feature nude figure drawings inspired on the traditional Japanese Shunga erotic woodcut prints, combined with flower-dessins from the Mantero archive. With additional screenprinted graphic layers of blown-up Japanese masks, shibori-indigo dyes, woven kasuri textiles and Delft Blue paintings, the entire collection embodies the story of two worlds meeting once again in intermixed cultural traditions.
Using the tunic as a base piece, the collection has grown into a semi-couture extravagance of where each look presents a new layer and playfully stacked bold prints. Each garment can be worn as a canvas depending on your mood, with a dazzling richness in combination as a result, balancing on luxury-couture and sporty details. The woman Liselore admires embraces the unknown with a sweltering sensuality and as you imagine the Amsterdam house, she takes you to an idyllic realm where two worlds collide.
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genuinely liked Dior, Off White, Dries, Zuhair Murad, Alexandre Vauthier, Chloe
haven't looked at anything else
Greg Lauren has been posting closeups on his IG, doesn't look like he's doing a show this time once again
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>>11816774
I adored this collection. I can't tell which one is my favorite so far, but the Rick Owens ss17 Walrus has definitely been a highlight, as well as the Dior and Vauthier.
Milan was alright, Lacoste was simple. didn't like NYFW much except for maybe BOSS?
Also, OP are you on a discord?
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only at paris fashion week would you find flip flops in such marvelous condition...fashion!

http://shoeii.com/
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Fenty x Puma
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Rihanna has proved her worth when it comes to designing clothes, this collection is so pleasurable to my senses.
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>>11818026
Definitely better than the HBA one at nyfw too.
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saint laurent was lovely imo. cool and sexy.
nice to see anja and freja!
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>>11816770
nice one
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>>11818026
>nigress hopping on the streetgoth bandwagon four years after it stopped
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>>11818342
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>>11818026
>>11818022
>>11818016
>>11818013
Yo, what the fuck. These are actually really good.
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>>11817680
>genuinely like off white

Ahahahahaha holy shit drop trip
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>>11818342
holy fuck dat skull face man
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>>11818357
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>>11818364
she's aged a lot too :'(
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>>11818360
lol did you even see the show?
it's not just hoodies and t shirts with stripes screen printed on them
his womenswear can have great moments, this time was great throughout
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lemaire good
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>>11818830
dries good
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>>11818834
marni good
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>>11818840
loewe good, not as good as last season tho
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>>11818846
yohji good
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>>11818854
one of best rick in a while imo
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Where can I learn about actual fashion? Like, how do you know all these names and their past collections and all that? pls
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>>11818865
agreed
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>>11818868
I've just watched the shows and gone from there. I've been doing it for a while and im still finding out about new designers. Plus I end up forgetting about a bunch of designers. I am curious as to what others do to stay informed
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>>11818865
jil bad
not a bad collection, but this isnt jil at all
vetements and issey inspiration blaringly obvious too
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>>11818854
the leg showing literally triggered me in this collection. extremely un-yohji
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Hussein Chalayan was great this season, such a consistenly underrated designer imo.
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>>11816774
really nice embroidery. glad to see new peeps like By Walid do that too
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>>11817425
basically a dutch weeb goes too deep
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>>11818890
well seeing as she isn't part of the label anymore, its not rlly a surprise
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>>11819045
its because ppl dont really buy his stuff. they want clothes they can work into their existing wardrobe
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>>11818342
>>11818357
>>11818375
shit

rip slp
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>>11819084
It's expected though, that the label will continue the themes and motifs that the designer built the label upon even after their departure

unfortunately it doesn't always work out that way
Ann D is another often used example, although Meunier had a fantastic return to form in ss17
very much an Ann collection again and I love it
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>>11819045
that looks fucking retarded, high fashion my ass
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Junya has been peeping Gosha's stuff it seems.
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>>11819104
oh interesting, havent been paying attention and didnt catch that Ann D got better again
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>>11819092
It's a shame because Chalayan is quite wearable. Especially in comparison to all the other "avant-garde" designers he gets lumped in with.
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>>11819114
yea hope the same doesn't happen to Craig Green
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>>11819109
The three inflatable looks were only finale pieces meant to contextualize the season's theme. I doubt they'll go into production. The rest of the collection was quite lovely.
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Jun Takahashi's music obsession continues with jazz album cover prints lol.

Literally like 5 or 6 of these in the collection.
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Here's a collection I would have glossed over if not for the runway itself:

https://youtu.be/W-a2oFT8UBg

Really goes to show how atmospherics can contextualize a collection. In comparison to just photographs the presentation makes the clothes appear more sophisticated and mature.
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>>11819045
That was my favorite outfit in this years collection omg.
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>>11819134
Did I link an advertisement lmao oops my bad

https://youtu.be/WRlhvLPX6Qg
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>>11819114
I like this alot
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>>11816774
That jacket is beautiful. Wish it was a little less oversized though - makes what should be a statement piece seem very casual, but then again that might've been the aim.
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Any of you guys subscribe to any magazines? Currently only subscribed to 032c (which I love) and looking for more recommendations
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where are you beauties getting these pictures from? Need more pfw resources
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>>11819294
vogue
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>>11819294
Vogue
NowFashion
Business of Fashion
Womenswear Daily
Dazed and Confused
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>>11819302
>>11819314
ty top boys
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>>11819141
Absolutely breathtaking. Hands down one of the best presentations thus far this season.
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>>11816769
this girl walked for Christopher Kane spring 2016, and I loved her hair on that run so much, i feel the way her hair was then, would go great with this black top, doesn't really appeal to me too much short. I think she's probably my fav model, don't even know her name though lol
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>>11819406
Kane is my boy.
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>>11819045
Hasnt Margiela(or CDG) done that already like 20 years ago?
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>>11819045
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>>11818865
Yumi??
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>>11819406
found her name.
Maria Clara, very beautiful lady.
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Good thread
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>>11819437
He designs nice shirts. I especially liked his mechanics tees a while back.
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>>11819072
doen we allemaal
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>>11819103
>m-muh rock n roll meme ;_;
>hedi plz cum bak

Hedi is a talentless hack and you are a fucking faggot
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>>11819579
wow good criticism
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>>11819406
ohhhh myyyy
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>>11819141
Sublime
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>womenswear
don't care desu
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>>11819646
Why wouldnt you care? it's not like you can afford to wear mens runway pieces so whats the difference between men and women shows at the end
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>>11819219
i-D
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>>11819449
very different concepts and methods. you're thinking about cdg ss97 too.

i wouldn't say that there has been no creative exchange between the two though. the knee-sliced shorts looks like it would be out of cdgh+ ss16
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>>11819449
>accusing chalayan of ripping off margiela

Nice way to show you know nothing about fashion
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>>11820177
Oh sorry i forgot this was a competition who knows the most about fashion...
Fuck off with your entitled shit and contribute instead
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>>11818357
this looks like female Christopher Poole
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This thread needs som AF Vandevorst

https://www.sz-mag.com/news/2016/09/f-vandevorst-ss17-womens/
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dior was a travesty
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>>11820378
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Anybody else disappointed in this seasons's Undercover? FW16 was so amazing and this show seems so understated and uninspired compared to the fairytale-like vibe he created for fw16.
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>>11818868
www.voguearchive.com
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>>11820515
>not free
ugh
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>>11819045
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oops https://youtu.be/xqxw5jNlN2M
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>>11818342
>sexy

This collection was sleazy, not sexy.
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>>11819045
chalayan recieves a great deal of praise and attention. his shows even back to his early days have tens of thousands of views. gifs of his transforming dresses have circulated on tumblr with similar number of reposts. he is widely known and respected.
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>>11820610
The shit Versace pulled off in the past makes this SLP collection look mild
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>>11820617
Yes he's very well known, but in comparison to other conceptual designers such as Rei, Junya, Margiela, etc., his shows aren't such a hot ticket item as they used to be. Most times his name is brought up it's about his collections from the early 2000s and work from his recent years isn't usually discussed as much, probably because he has mostly stopped with the large spectacles in favour of wearability. I wouldn't really consider reblogs as fair attention because some/lots of tumblr users don't really care to seek out source material. Even when talking to my classmates, usually their only (vague) knowledge of his work is the table dress and only the dress and never anything about his concepts.
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>>11820830
True. I can't believe his shows are so under appreciated even though they consistently to this day deliver interesting concepts and pieces each season. At least compared to Vetements and the like.
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>>11820591
Delpozo is t o o g o o d for nyfw desu. The shapes are stunning and the collections always feel fresh. It's a huge departure from Font's work at his own label where I thought everything looked super dated.
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>>11820378
oh wow another Begian designer?how other nation can even compete
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>>11821529
Well they are not exactly newcomers in the fashion scene but yea
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Do any of you like Marcelo Burlon? I've liked his stuff for the past 2 or 3 seasons. Im not such a fan of the daisy dukes or the socks+slides but I think his distressing is very controlled and reminds me of undercover, and although I dislike socks+slides, I think they suit the rest of the outfit here and aren't flashy.
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>>11821872
That's a really nice photo. Saved.
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>>11821872
hack
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What were everyones thoughts on the Gucci ss17 show?
Personally I thought it was amazing - the set and pieces were stunning and I loved the opulent Chinese/Western Imperialism theme. Alessandro's use of pattern is insane, you can really see his prior experience with porcelain design being applied.

>>11821872
Love this.
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>>11822843
I don't know why it's so low quality, here's the slideshow though.
http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/county-of-milan/slideshow/collection
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>>11822931
its a paris fashion week thread lad
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>>11822966

People have been posting lots of shows from London, New York, and Milan.
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>>11818357

>that fucking makeup
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>>11822966
well we didnt have any for the others, so its now a general fashion week thread to make up for that
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>>11818342
>saint laurent was lovely imo
exact opposite reaction for me. it looked trashy, and not in the somewhat refined hedi fashion but legitimately unappealing.
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>>11820515
>www.voguearchive.com
>everything I've ever wanted
>$1600 per year
fml
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>>11822931
amazing.

I can't get over the fact that by the time I'll actually be able to afford Gucci, Michele probably won't be CD anymore and I'll be boring/not have an opp to wear embroidered floral jackets as a man
>>
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Kim Kardashian West has been held at gunpoint in her Paris hotel room by masked men dressed as police officers.

"She is badly shaken but physically unharmed," her rep tells PEOPLE.

The reality star has been in Paris for the last week for Fashion Week.

>the crime infested jewish cuckhole slum of paris
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>>11822987
i was too lazy to point out other non-paris shows

>>11823026
well i cant do anything about it at this point. kinda sad though that /fa/ needs to do this to have a thread with decent discussion
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>>11820356
>Doesn't know Freja

How far has this board fallen
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>>11820468
this is like a /cgl/ imitation of Ann D fw 2011
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>>11823074
because of his time at versace
hopefully he grows out of it
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is there any other coverage of fashion week worth paying attention to besides lou's panels on show studio?
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>>11816774
this is literally what androgyny should be

dries always kills it
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>>11819104
>that the label will continue the themes and motifs that the designer built the label upon even after their departure

this is a good point and I agree, but it's kind of killing alexander mcqueen. i respect sarah burton a lot but every collection just seems like it's been thought up by someone who read mcqueen's autobiography. I also feel like it the mcqueen brand is focusing too much on establishing itself as a luxury brand rather than the provoking, edgy and innovative collection alexander was doing when he was still alive.

fuck i miss him
>>
>>11822931
This show was among my favorite of this season. Only criticism is that the models looked uncomfortable, but it sort of matched the eerie atmosphere of the show.
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Thoughts on issey's r2w?
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>>11823184
wondering the same thing, I love the amount of insight in lou's discussions
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>>11823295
personally loved it, always love the bands he picks for the shows as well
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>>11823300
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>>11823295
I liked how those first few dresses were replicated in multiple colour schemes, also really liked that melon dress - its my favorite colour.
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>>11818026
Does anyone know how much input Rihanna has into the actual design of these clothes because I'm digging this a lot
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>>11823307
superb coat+shirt. the collection looked gr8 on the black ladies that walked.

>>11823427
they are casting it as a significant contribution, comparable to the Kanye/Adidas collection
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>>11823295
how much does a designer have to sell to stay afloat? i never see anyone wear this stuff, but they still make collection after collection, so their profit margins must be high for clothing right?
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>>11823497
asia is his main market, china and japan mostly. also, bao bao bags and fragrances are extremely popular and profitable for the brand

>>11823295
loved it. miyamae has been doing a great job incorporating more pleating and in very subtle ways compared to previous designers who have succeeded issey. those grid dresses have really small pleats to them that can really be only seen with detail shots. not as good as aw16 imho but still a good collection

like the other anon said too, the band was great. they looked effay as well as had these weird ass intruments that seem like fun to play
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>>11823080
Colleges (not just fashion schools like fidm) and public libraries sometimes have access.
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>>11820852
It's great to see how relevant some of his older collection concepts are to this day, his ideas regarding immigration and ethnic identity seem especially poignant these days.
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im a p big fan of the new Enfants Riches Déprimés collection
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>>11824013
i never knew he was that explicitly political about his collections. do you have any links of interviews and such where he explains how his collections relate to those themes? i'm curious to know as i only viewed him as a designer experimenting on how technology and fashion intersect
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>>11819219
look up SSAW
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>>11824135
I'm still figuring out what exactly he meant to communicate with this, but its hard to see it not containing some sort of political statement.
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>>11824281
what season is this?
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>>11824466
http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2002-ready-to-wear/chalayan
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>>11824036
not into it, srry lad!
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>>11824135
I don't really pay attention to online interviews but I suggest you read his Rizzoli monograph if you haven't already, it's the most comprehensive and straightforward analysis of his work and themes. A lot of his work is self-referential and explores his identity as a Turkish-English immigrant. I've taken some pictures of excepts pertaining his upbringing you might find interesting since I have it at my school library and I can post them later.

>>11824281
I think he was questioning how someone as an immigrant to the west perceives their heritage in part of their identity. Is your ethnicity/cultural history a source of empowerment to you or do you feel stronger adopting western ideals [of dress]? What happens in the instance of war when these artifacts are destroyed or have to be left in your home country, do you still cling to the cultural traditions that these items represented? In a multicultural hotbed like London, it can go both ways, so it becomes a balancing act for the individual. There was a bit more to it so please excuse my ungraceful explanation lol.
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>>11824036
lol rich kid using daddy's money
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>>11819579
talentless hack doubles slps revenue and saved ysl from going bankrupt

OY VEY
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>>11824996
>Fifty million Frenchmen can't be wrong
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>>11824036
erd is horrible.
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>>11824036
fuck erd
they are responsible for pic related
I seriously fucking hope Arto gets paid for this
>>
>>11824863
Good point. Though i really doubt it was his intention, I think it also touches on the subject of the extinction or gradual dilution of traditional cultures, and ways of dress in a globalized and multicultural world as a consequence of immigration.
>>
I really liked the small details like the Logo earrings and Heels in the Ysl show but overall it felt too trashy

Rihanna impresses me and is my favorite celeb collaborator to date.

Maria keeping it VERY clean and classy for dior
and i especially like the dresses

Balmain being tacky as balmain has always been

Rick coming through with one of my favorite locations of all times beautiful venue


>>11818681
This was his best collection but i still feel like he has a lot of development to do
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>>11825111
i agree
it was just refreshing to see a cohesive collection with an actual direction from virgil
his womenswear has always been better than his menswear, but this was the first time i liked the collection as a whole rather than individual pieces
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>>11825066
The great thing about Chalayan's narratives is that despite them being so multifaceted it leaves a lot up to your own interpretation :)
>>
>>11821872
He made the same shit for about 5 years (that snake print and similar stuff), which was a copy of 2009-10 Givenchy tees.

At first glance his latest lookbook seemed cool, at least silhouettes were more refined and it seemed like something new.
Then you notice he just tried to ride every single wave that's up right now (gothic/black metal fonts, slides with socks, distressed denim, refined mountaineering boots).
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