Sup /diy/, the usb port fell out of my keyboard. It looks like

looks possible to re-solder but not if you're bad at soldering. practice on some broken or cheap electronics and first try to do surace-mount device soldering before your USB port

horry sheet man

you might be lucky and just set the thing on top, and heat each leg a little until the solder underneath melts

otherwise, practice on other shit as above or have a friend do it

first thing is you need solder braid to remove all the solder on the pads and the pins of the connector. this is to make sure it lies flat and fits the hole. next is a fine tip and very fine solder. do the 2 big mounting pads first to center all the pins, then the 5 pins. if you get bridges, remove with solder braid and try again. or dump some flux on the bridge, and heat. flux is magic at removing bridges.

also, know that the little connector will come off again in the future, maybe this time ripping out traces. if it were me, i'd solder a cable on permanently.

>>915269
pretty much said it, but here's my take anyway...

For an "extremely expensive" kbd, that factory soldering is the worst I've ever seen.
-put the port in place
-solder the tangs (pic related)
use more solder than the factory did
-clean soldering iron of excess solder with a paper towel
-join the connectors

I'd clean the board first as >>915269 suggested, but if you're not familiar with soldering, you might do more harm than good.
You're biggest challenges will be:
1) too much heat, damaging the parts
-if you're having problems, stop, let things cool
2)the connectors bridging
-clean the iron of excess solder
-if they do bridge, solder braid or a solder sucker

Important: Soldering iron should be clean and shiny (fresh solder makes it shiny)

File: tang.png (12KB, 145x81px) Image search: [Google]

12KB, 145x81px

>>915298
kek,
>pic related

>>914654

Take a hot air gun and heat the board until the solder reflows, then carefully place the usb port back onto the board with a pair of tweezers. Once the solder is cooled and the port is reattached onto the board, go over each one of the pins with a soldering iron. You can even stand to add a little bit of solder to the "feet" of the charge port, if you understand what I'm saying. That'll make sure it holds on a bit better.

Be careful with the heat gun though, you can blow away the smaller parts right off the board if the air-to-heat ratio is off. More heat, less air. You can also cover the majority of the working area with polyimide tape, leaving the area designated for the charge port exposed. A good temperature for the heatgun setting would be right around 550, and set your soldering iron to about 600. Good luck, and welcome to the wonderful world of Hot Air Rework and Microsoldering.

>>915318
>Take a hot air gun
dafuq?
Sounds like you know what you're doing but horrible advice.

>>915328

I do about 30 charge ports a day, the method is tried and true.

It's worth a try, I suppose.

Just do some continuity checks before you power it up to make sure you didn't short anything.

>>914654
you need solder paste flux and hot air rework gun or station. should be pretty easy with the right tools. it will be a bitch with a soldering iron but if you have flux it will be much easier, just clean off the solder first.

>>914654
>usb port fell out of my keyboard
>the keyboard was extremely expensive

a) Send it back for the manufacturer to fix it.
b) Tell us what keyboard this was so we can avoid them.

>>915328
hot air gun to reflow solder is pretty standard. Sounds like you don't really know what you're talking about.

1- take dessolder wick
2- remove old solder with dessoldering wick and soldering iron
3- apply small amounts of solder to the USB pads, level it with the dessoldering wick
4- hold usb port in place with a tweezer or something like that
5- press the pins against the pads with the soldering iron tip
6- solder the 4 pads that are meant for support
7- carefully inspect your job

This should work.