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Straight Six Sorrows: The Second

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Thread replies: 30
Thread images: 7

File: 20151123_223900.jpg (2MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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New thread, as I let the old one die. Really appreciate the interest the first one got, and I'm glad there are guys on here who know more about these engines than I. This is a pretty slow moving project, so I'll probably have to make one of these every few weeks.

>Be me
>It's cold outside
>Breaker bar and massive 1 3/4" socket acquired
>Six 1/2" bolts surrounding 1 3/2" bolt in the center of the crankshaft pulley
>Can't fit socket over center bolt head far enough to apply any real torque with smaller bolts in the way
>Try to wiggle the pulley off
>Pulley remains solidly attached to crankshaft
>Decide removing it isn't important, so long as I can get the socket on the crankshaft
>Slide on socket with breaker bar and pipe
>Push with all my might towards clockwise rotation
>Both breaker bar and engine seating flex, but the engine remains solid
>Realize that trying to do this in freezing whether is probably not assisting my cause
>Oh well, let's see if it'll rotate counterclockwise before giving up.
>What I thought was the crankshaft unscrews
File: 20151123_223834.jpg (2MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Dumping related pics
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File: 20151123_223908.jpg (2MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Additionally, I've been working to remove both the intake and exhaust manifolds. However, despite removing every bolt I could find securing them to the block (and each other,) the things won't budge.
pull the motor and soak it in a barrel of diesel for a month

>I've been working to remove both the intake and exhaust manifolds.

Why would you do that?
this....a barrel of kerosene, fuel oil, or diesel. Theyre all the same thing really. Just kerosene isnt approved for motorway use/transportation here in the states (taxes and what not), so its cheaper than diesel.
and btw...that is the crankshaft i believe. You just happened to undo the retaining bolt holding the pulley in place.
How else is he going to powdercoat the block a bright pink color?
/First decide which way the nut loosens - ISTR there may be some left hand thread jiggerypokery on cranks.

Second - jam a thing in the starter hole to jam the starter/flywheel ring-gear so you can turn the nut.

Third - get a long scaffold pole and apply to heavy duty breaker bar.
A couple of reasons. Primarily, I just want to have access to the valves. I also want to be able to sand-blast and paint the engine, should I get that far. Additionally, from what I've read, it's a no-no to put one of these things on an engine stand lengthwise, rather, they should be mounted by the exhaust bolt holes.
I thought so. I guess I just don't know what to use to turn the engine over if not that bolt head. Maybe there's something hidden where the pulley mounts, but despite having removed every bolt in sight, it remains solidly mounted to the shaft. Might it be threaded on?

Is that what you're suggesting, >>905609 ?
yeah, you can try that. Is the engine unmated from the transmission? I didnt follow the first thread much. If so, id try the flywheel route the other anon suggested.

you soaked/filled the cylinders with some solvent or lubricant to try and free them up?
File: HeatGun.jpg (39KB, 336x336px) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Give the manifold a good dose of heat until its too hot to touch. Let it cool then do it again a few times.
why wouldnt he want the intake and exhaust to be bright pink also?
do you even think before you post..
Because chrome and heat.
whats wrong with that?
Wishing you luck op, I"m just about done rebuilding a 6 cylinder myself.

Machinist did some great work on it, costly work, but damn he is good at what he does. Thing was slap worn out, had to bore the cylinder walls 6 over they were so gone, and I had to find another crankshaft, the one in it was too worn to mill down.

Info's in the pic.

Any more info on this project? Give me all of it, I'll be following along.
God I love straight 6's!!!
>inb4 2jz Supra fanboy...Nope R32, R33,R34 all the way!

OP...Im this anon>>905518
What kind of classic is this engine from again?
Did you even try a penetrating oil like I suggested last thread?
thats what I was getting at here>>905651

I THINK he did, but I dont remember.

Even if OP breaks it loose, it will still probably benefit from a teardown and ball honing. Sounds/looks like it has sat for MANY years.
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Heat gun! Now that's an idea! I was trying to use a crappy old space heater to warm the block so at least it wouldn't be cold to the touch, but it just wasn't putting out enough heat to effectively fight the garage's lack of insulation. I can't believe I didn't consider my heat gun, though. I'll certianly try this before going ahead and submerging the engine in anything. I'm not particularly well equipped for that sort of thing, and I'm trying to do everything I can with the engine mounted in the car before I hoist it out.


To be honest, I couldn't really visualize what you two are describing with this "flywheel method." Is it simply another method to turn over a stuck motor? The transmission is still mounted along with the engine in the car. Not much access to the starter or bell housing at this point, as I've only removed the passenger side fender.

And yes, I have soaked the cylinders in Marvell Mystery Oil and sprayed them with penetrating oil.

Do you guys think I should re-insert the large bolt from the crankshaft to turn the engine over, or would it be a poor decision to put that kind of pressure on a bolt?
It's a 1950 Chrysler Windsor Sedan. Rough shape to say the least, but cheap enough that I'm free to screw it up and not feel compelled to jump off a bridge.
I suggest heating the manifold only so hopefully it expands at a different rate to the block and moves a little.

Avoid damaging the bolt if you can.
Looks beautiful, anon. This car has < 30k miles on it, and I'm really praying that the bearings and such don't need to be replaced or the cylinders milled. I just hope I can get away with honing the cylinders and replacing the piston rings. Of course, I'm sure there will be more to do, and if the cylinders are in fact warped, I suppose I'll have no choice. I just need to get things apart so I can assess the damage.
And yes. I don't think this car has run for 40 years. Spent about that long in an old garage, and one more outside exposed to the elements before I bought it.
>>905518 anon here again

heat gun wont do much good. The cold will actually help better probably. Heat will cause the metal to expand, making things tighter. Many times torching nuts is helpful, because it expands the nut, making it bigger around the bolt. Youd want to heat the block, to cause it to expand around the cylinders. A heat gun will not perform this task. The heat is too focused, and by the time you move down to cylinder 6, the 1st will have cooled back down.

Is the transmission in park or first gear (i bet it is!)? If so, get it into neutral, get that bolt back onto that pulley, and try again. If tranny is in park/gear....ypu arent gonna turn the motor over by hand....period.

If that doesnt work...Get the block out and unmated from the transmission and go from there.
>A heat gun will not perform this task.

I was suggesting that for the manifold flange area. Sure the block will require a lot more.
I was thinking about using heat more in terms of lowering the viscosity of the probably gummed up lubricant inside, but you're probably right, heating the whole block with a heat gun is likely wishful thinking.

The transmission is a fluid drive semiautomatic, so it's not exactly clear-cut where neutral is on the thing, but I've messed around with it, and I'm fairly sure that's where I have it.

In reality, taking the block out to work on it is probably my best option... On a stand with adjustable bolt positions, would it make sense to mount the engine by the manifold bolt holes? I've heard horror stories of the bell housings on engines like this shattering when mounted to a stand. Maybe that was just the eight cylinders, but still...
I realized that's what you meant after I posted my reply. I'll probably end up buying an inductive block heater. They're not too expensive, and it could prove useful in the future.
Thread posts: 30
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