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Toilet inlet leak

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Thread replies: 20
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Whoever did the plumbing in my flat didn't give enough room for the toilet inlet pipe & after a year of awkward strain it has started leaking. Turns out he'd cut the end of the flidmaster to fit but not left a flat surface and I'm guessing its done some damage to L valve & washer.

Already replaced the fluid master & the leaks still there, should I get a long flex hose & loop it around to avoid any more strain? Don't own the flat so can't do anything about where the pipe comes out the wall.

what... what country are you in? I've never seen incoming toilet connections like that.

anyhow, you'll need to point out in a picture exactly where the leak is.
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Yeah, me neither. Scotland, think the owner of the flat 'finished' up the job on his own. The pipe leading out of the wall is incredibly loose and I've no idea what's going on behind there. I could just replace this setup but it's putting a lot of strain through the wall. Don't want to risk that.

Want to set up a valve & flexible compression hose but there's hardly any room for it to go.

Indicated on the photo where the leak is, cheers!
Sounds like you're a renter of that place, why not contact the landlord and tell them theres a leak in the plumbing system so they can pay to fix it?
Friends parents own the place, i'm pretty sure their dad did the job. Trying to save em some $$
Unscrew that weird ass adapter from the wall, and screw on a proper valve. Then use a flex line from the valve to the toilet.
So you pay them hundreds of dollars per month and you're going to pay to fix their problems?

If you're friends with them thats fine, alert them of the problem and offer to help fix it WITH them. Otherwise you're doing something dumb. Say you fuck it up and cause thousands in water damages? What then?
They're paying for the parts of course, they're letting me stay here for real cheap so i thought i'd do the labour. Prices are pretty steep around here
That's dumb. You're dumb.

Have them do it. Have them do it right.

Who cares if they're giving you a deal? If you weren't living there, someone else would be and they'd have to fix it.

By us code it should have an elbow valve that anchors into the wall. It doesn't get put there in a lot of older homes here, and depending on the construction, ie stone, they might not have had a realistic anchor point. To help alleviate the movement you could make or get an adjustable collar. One that would slip on behind the threaded part coming out of the wall. This of course assumes there is only a limited amount of movement in the in out direction.
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looks pretty standard
knew a place in glasgow where the dad did the plumbing, all the radiator valves were on backwards so they rattled when the heating was on. the pressure never went above .6bar and even then it stayed there for 24h max before it needed refilled.
never did figure out where the water was going...

anyway if i were you op i would leave it as is.
ideally smash a tile off and clip the pipe to the wall so its not lose then reconnect it to the cistern so its not strained.
if you go putting a flexi hose on its just going to be dangling off the side putting pressure on the plastic thread. its full of water and when the flush starts and stops its going to rattle and shake the pipe behind the wall probably too.
old plumbers don't trust flexi hoses but then if you ask them they don't trust much and even then its because hot water will fuck flexis if its too hot and they arent rated for it. so its probably ok but in my opinion it will look a lot worse than it does now.

get one of those things you put around radiator pipes going into the floor to cover up the tile that looks awful.
Thanks for the thoughts man,

Only issue is that it still leaks, I would try to replace the current ball valve but I can't seem to find one similar on screwfix & the like
>should I get a long flex hose & loop it around to avoid any more strain?
that's what I would do. Ugly but cheap and it works.
also maybe then there will be room for a straight valve too, since you can't find the same L-valve.
>one similar
i'm assuming its pretty much this but not sure about the length to the cistern after the bend.
the nut slides about so it COULD be a match.
>holy shit post the link you retard
here's the valve

waste of money unless the valves leaking from the stem though. prob ya only need a new fiber washer and dope it up with some plumbers mait, fibers need a couple hours to swell and seal tight.

that said, if the floorboards are rotten from years of leak and the whole lot's waggling a flex connector is a quick bodge that'll work, though i'd never do it to my own house.
Go to toolstation and buy a new 90 elbow iso service valve.

These valves are common in side entry inlets more so in concealed cistern toilets because there isnt much room for long flexi's.

Looping the flexi is more common on bottom inlets because its out of the way, having a flexi on the side looks unsightly so the only way to make it look somewhat decent and still be able to isolate the water for repair is with a service vavle.

If there is wobble when you sit on the toilet which is causing strain on the pipe, have you made sure the cistern is secured fully to the wall, you can put a bunch of silicone on the back let it cure and it will mitigate wobble. The pipe thats free hanging behind the wall wont be causing the issue.

It could just be that the valve is knackered just normal wear and tear depending how long its been there.

If you do replace service valve make sure you stick some mole grips or something to the 15mm pipe coming out of the wall, if you lose it back in the wall you're fucked.
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welsh plumber here...dont listen to any of the faggots here...
the elbow is a ballofix/service valve make sure you turn this off with a flat head, empty the cistern, loosen the nut on the plastic threading then loosen the plastic nut and pull the ball valve into the toilet a little, put a new tap washer in and maybe wrap ptfe around the threads 13 times and put it all back together...or better off calling somebody who thinks this job is a piece of piss
>put a new tap washer in and maybe wrap ptfe around the threads 13 times

>ptfe tape AND a washer
fucking kill yourself pal
mechanics of a washer seal means tape wont make a fuck of a difference, the leak doesn't need to travel the threads it just seeps before the nut

>13 times
Thread posts: 20
Thread images: 4

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