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/3dpg/ 3d Printing General

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Easy Cheese Edition

Old thread >>885561

>open source community
http://reprap.org/
http://forums.reprap.org/

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any number of Reprap kits out there

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stufff)
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index

>what kind of filament do I want
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Wb0i0-Qvo [Embed] [Embed] [Embed]

>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
https://www.tinkercad.com/
http://www.123dapp.com/
http://www.openscad.org/

>where to buy genuine hotends
http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-hotends (USA E3D reseller)
http://e3d-online.com/ (E3Ds regular site, yuro based)
http://hotends.com/ (genuine J-Head seller)
https://www.printedsolid.com/shop/printer-parts/hexagon/ (hexagon)
https://www.b3innovations.com/ (pico)
http://www.dta-labs.com/products/prometheus-v2 (prometheus)
https://www.lulzbot.com/catalog/budaschnozzle-20 (budaschnozzle)


>where to buy filament
http://pushplastic.com/
http://www.jet-filament.com/
http://www.makergeeks.com/

>but anon, there are euros here
http://www.reprap.cc/

>tech support
freenode #reprap
>>
>>895624
>have to buy one time use cracker bases for prints
Seems expensive.
>>
>>895666
The crackers add up but I find you don't go through nearly as many as you'd expect.
>>
when designing for 3d print are filet edges welcome or it is better to avoid them or use chamfer?
>>
>>895953
Usually it doesn't matter. Do what you like more.
>>
>>895953

IMHO I believe that chamfer looks better but that's just because I don't like how fillets look when the layers get spaced far apart horizontally as they approach horizontal.
>>
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Does anyone know how to prevent this? (It's a hemisphere)
I checked troubleshooting guides, but haven't found a solution.
>>
>>896056
Lower the angle needed for support infill
>>
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>>896058
The hemisphere is supposed to be full, so I am using normal infill and not support material. In Slic3r there is no option to set that angle for normal infill. Which slicer has that option?
>>
You have multiple options
1 - increase density of infill. Curves just dont lay down well on top of sparse infill.
2- increase wall count. More walls means more support for the next layer and less exposed inner walls near the top.
3 - there is a toggle in slic3r to only infill areas that surpass the support angle you set. You can combine this with increase density and get better support for the top of the model with out an increase in material cost, as the steeper walls won't get infilled since they dont need it anyway.
>>
>>896101
Thanks.
Fill angle option doesn't help though. But Solid infill threshold area does.
>>
How do edit gcode to pause a print so I can change the color of filament?
>>
>>897091
oh, i know i saw a gcode parameter that supports that somewhere, let me find it
>>
>>897091
>>897094
that was faster then i thought, give this a look
http://prusaprinters.org/easy-color-3d-printing-on-new-original-prusa-i3-1-75-mm-video/
>>
>>897098
that's amazing! I thought I'd have to program a bunch more than that. Can't wait to give it a try!
>>
>>897110
if you can work quickly, you could always just use a G4 command and tell it to wait a couple minutes. takes up almost no space in code, but you have to be there when it happens
>>
Printer is still spitting out prints like this. Can't tell if it is because of a poorly leveled bed, a poorly tensioned extruder, or something else.
>>
>>897382
maybe your filament isnt dry and bits of moisture are boiling in the extruder. the fence around the part looked like mine did when i didnt have dry filament. i have the luxury of a heated print chamber and letting the filament sit inside at 75c over the weekend got all of it out.
doing something similar in an oven over night might help or you could get a damprid can and seal it in a container with the filament. it will take longer but it should help if thats the issue.
>>
>>897382
increase flowrate?
>>
>>897382
locked nozzle?
>>
>>897403
Fuck I mean blocked. What nozzle size are you using.
>>
>>897382
If drive gear is grinding filament: clogged nozzle or temperature too low or not enough tension on filament or fucked up cold end/heat break.

If not: incorrect extruder steps/mm or extruder multiplier/flowrate

also: anon in previous thread had completely fucked up nozzle and had similar problems
>>
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thread is too slow

post your prints
>>
>>897404
4mm with 1.5mm PLA
>>
what's the minimum layer height one can do with a 0.4 mm nozzle?
>>
>>897782
whatever you dare try. I think i'm pushing the limits with .1mm layers with my .5mm nozzle.
>>
>>897511
I printed centercaps for my car.
The manufacturer never made centercaps for them. Theyre sized to fit a bmw emblem sticker on them but im not sure if i want to keep them black or not.

I have 3 more printing now and a tip for an ecig i got to try and quit smoking.
>>
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>>897800
Fresh out of the printer!
>not the o ring
>>
>>897917
Perfect fit!
>>
>>897918
>>897917
>>897800

how do you guys offset your prints so that shit fits where it's supposed to fit?

I mean I have a solution but I really don't like it.
>>
>>897921
Calipers.

>draw an X cm object
>print object
>measure
I found that my printers print 0.1mm too large so i take that into account when i design something.
>>
>>897800
I designed and printed centercaps for a dodge intrepid, worked beautifully and actually looked decent.

The car got totaled like a week later and sadly I never took pics of them.

Your caps look really good too.
>>
>>897924
>I found that my printers print 0.1mm too large so i take that into account when i design something.

hm yeah. I meant that when you design complex interlocking parts. if you have to intrude every contact edge by 0.05 mm, (0.15 in my case) etc... if there's a solution to that. because it's a pain in the ass. Plus, the parts then don't fit together correctly in any assembly software.
>>
>>897940
>The car got totaled like a week later

just got my license a while back and i was just about to buy my first car, that sucks ass man.
>>
>>897945
I found out my printer prints about .2 too large. I edited flow rate and now it prints more accurate, pieces fit snug together now, not too big anymore.
I use Cura, put my filament diameter on 1.9, so it prints less. you could also adjust flow % I guess.
Hope that helps!
>>
>>897950

thanks!
>>
>>897921
very fine calibration
You shouldn't be offsetting everything. Of course you should design parts for the process in which they will be manufactured, but that doesn't mean making everything undersized cause you expect the printer to make it oversized.

I ended up turning down my E steps and up my XY steps from my printer's defaults. Need to flash it to my printer still
>>
how do I avoid delamination with ABS? I'm printing at 240° and printed a test cube that turned into a square slinky when I tried to pull it off the bed. PLA is printing fine with great strength. Just having trouble with ABS.
>>
>>898039
raise temp is the usual advice. some abs just doesn't want to play nice a regular temps. have you checked to see if your nozzle is actually at the reported temp?
>>
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I haven't got mine fine tuned yet so not much to show.
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>>898155
Tensioners
>>
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>>898156
my new effector
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>>898158
and some mag arm mounts
>>
>>898101
how do I measure the hotend properly? I tried getting a reading with an IR heat thermometer but the aluminum heat block has low emissivity rating so gives me a false reading. Says it's about 150° but I can push plastic through it and it melts just fine so that can't be right.
>>
>>898247
I'd suggest an empirical method: push filament through by hand. If it flows with little resistance, that's probably hot enough. Knowing the actual temperature isn't necessary (unless autism demands it).
>>
>>898247
This guide might be more useful than measuring a real hotend temperature:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSOPsRiiOZk

Otherwise for ABS: enclosure or heated chamber.
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>>898155
That's a pretty decent attempt. Nice job.
What effector is that?

>>898247
Maybe color one side with marker. Reflective and shiny surfaces suck for IR thermometers.
>>
i got a somewhat inexpensive delta kit, messed with it for a while but could never dial it in like i wanted and i lost interest.

i want to get back into it but i just dont feel like dealing with delta crap and want to make things.

should i buy a pursa i3 hardware-only kit and transfer the motors/electronics over?
>>
>>898342
also are there any kind of adaptable delta enclosures i can open up to reach into? all enclosures seem to be for cartesians
>>
>>898345
you could always make one out of a roll of sheet metal.
>>
>>898349
would plexiglass not work?
>>
>>898350
its not really round.you could make a plexi hexagon.
>>
>>898345
here's something
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213632
could probably scale it up or down for any size delta
>>
>>898339
>That's a pretty decent attempt. Nice job.
>What effector is that?

my edit of the Xnaron set. just trying to shave off a few ounces.
>>
>>898342
>>898345
I was thinking about making a delta 3d printer for a brother. Mostly frame and some other left overs from my kit, he had to buy electronics, motors and some other shit for him self.

Are deltas really harder to set up calibrate - tune and maintain than cartesian like prusa i3?


What are cons and pros of delta system over cartesian
>>
>>898639
>Are deltas really harder to set up calibrate - tune and maintain than cartesian like prusa i3?
yesx100
dont get a delta as your first printer
>>
>>898651
I disagree. My Max V2 is my first and it's been nothing but fun. obviously its a tad bit pricey compared to some cheap Chinese shit, and I've modded quite a bit, but you really do get what you pay for.

As far as calibration, it's not harder, its just different. your just replacing some of the Cartesian headaches with delta headaches. i can say that the best part is the stationary bed. Once you get this thing leveled, you rarely have to retune.
>>
>>898651
even with auto level?
>>
where can I set up that when print is done the Y axis doesn't home but go te the other side (Y 200)?
Been looking thro FW but cant find it. Also I cant find where to set time before the LCD screen returns to info screen
>>
>>898651
I would go as far to say that Deltas can be easier to tune than a cartesian printer.

It can a serious pain in the ass getting axis rods perfectly straight, and a bunch of threaded to come loose over time.

The problem is something like the I3 will still print even if you have a really uneven hastily put together printer, so people equate that to it being "easy"
>>
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>>898728
>>
http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M300:_Play_beep_sound

Anyone tried getting your printer to play music? How do I test this out? I'd love to have a song to play when a print is done.
>>
>>898768
I had some fun with Midi2CNC back in 2012. Works good, But probably not the best idea when there is something on your buildplate.
>>
Anyone have a Folgertech Kossel 2020 rev B? Is it any good? I'm looking to get my first printer.
>>
>>898768
I have not had it try to play music, but I did put the Gcode into cura
When my print ends, there is a loud beep to tell me its done, it plays through the speaker on the LCD
>>
>>898805
I dont have one, but the original kit was huge on the reddit.

From what ive read, the revision B has fixed the main problem they had which was awful gearing for the axis.
>>
>>898810
If I get the kit are there any aftermarket parts I can get to further improve it?
>>
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>>898811
You can replace any hardware part you want with a higher quality one if you really wanted.
Some of the stuff that comes with it is kinda junky like the hotend.

Its just what happens with these dirt cheap kits and it will be perfectly functional.

You will be able to print out different things for it though, like building a new extruder

The first thing I would do is print out a new defector and use magnets to get rid of backlash. The RC car tie rod ends are OK but the magnets are fucking awesome.
>>
>>898814
Are any hotends compatible with the Kossel 2020? Is there some sort of community where I can find more info?

The one thing I'm a little concerned about is the build platform. It looks a bit small
>>
Is there a better DIY 3D printer out there than an Ultimaker 2 for under $1000?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:811271
>>
>>898820
i think it's one of those things where if it fits, it'll work.
>>
>>898820
The way reprap 3d printing works, its all open source
You buy a new hotend, it probably wont fit on your stock effector
You print out a new effector plate with mounts for your new hotend.

It will work with the electronics fine, its just 2 pairs of wires, one for the thermistor, and one for the heater. A lot of prebuilts are using some sort of reprap standard for a lot of stuff.
>>
>>898821
Nice
Looks like someone did some great work on that.

Ive been wanting to build some sort of CoreXY printer, but a UM2 clone sounds pretty awesome too. I never liked the real UM2 frame anyways, extrusion seems better.
>>
>>898822
>>898824
I see that's interesting. So just the effector has to be swapped out? And the printer calibrated right?

Besides the hotend what's the best way to improve print quality/smoothness?
>>
>>898835
>And the printer calibrated right?

Not really, something like an I3 would need the bed level manually changed due to a new hotend height., but the Deltas have auto bed leveling.
You would just need to adjust your print settings to your new hotend. Like if your nozzle size changed or something. You may have to change your thermistor settings at the firmware level if its different.
Not that hard though
>>
>>898835
Oh and

>Besides the hotend what's the best way to improve print quality/smoothness?

Largely depends on the individual printer
>>
>>898838
I see. Thanks for all the help
>>
>>898838
>but the Deltas have auto bed leveling.

Auto bed leveling is directly correlated to height of the hotend. The auto level sensor would need moved in conjunction to the new nozzle height
>>
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FYI, PEI Looks pretty nice under LED effector.
>>
>>897940
>Pics or it didn't happen.
But for serious, nice.
>>
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What are the two bolts on the bottom left called? I am tensioning my extruder with a rubber band right now, and I desperately need to get this done right.
>>
>>898911
washers
>>
>>898912
Sorry, I meant the two bolts to the bottom right
>>
>>898913
just look like bolts
what do you want to know
>>
>>898913
cap screws

though for all you care, the head type doesn't much matter
>>
>>898915
I can tell that they are M4 bolts, I have a bunch of those, but I am asking more about where can I find M4 bolts that are only partially theaded so springs won't catch.

>>898916
Thank you! Do you know how long they should be? Would 30mm cut it, or should I go longer?
>>
>>898919
>>898911
You can find metric socket cap screws at hardware stores.

30mm is pretty short.
I have 50mm ones one my airtripper and wouldnt mind finding some slightly longer ones.

If your hardware doesnt have the socket caps, they will probably have machine screws that will work.

Springs dont catch on the threads like you think they would
>>
how do you guys feel about 3d printed electric guitars?

too flashy?
too large?
a fun thing you want to do some day?
>>
>>899085

They're good for hanging on walls or having as decoration.

As far as tone and resonance go, no thanks.
>>
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did the slicer fuck this up? it doesn't look right at all. Will this print like it's depicted on the left or as depicted on the right?
>>
>>899149
Probably the one on the right.
I would say it's a problem with wall thickness vs. nozzle size.
Did you made that yourself? If yes, make a new one with thicker walls. Or when you are exporting to STL, adjust settings for better quality.
>>
>>899085
They always snap at the neck. I imagine that if you tried a denser material like nylon you could achieve better results.
>>
>>899167
oh, the neck and core would be traditional wooden stuff, just the body is 3d printed
>>
Does anyone else remember the Kickstarter printer Tiko 3D?

Remember how smug and pieces of garbage the makers were in their AMA?
How they hired lawyers and as advertising company before they even had pictures of their printers printing?
The ones who literally cheaped out on every single aspect.

It shouldnt be too surprising, but they are having serious production issues and wont be shipping printers out this year like they said they would.

lel
>>
>>899394
top kek

Their design is so easy to manufacture too. It's just a simple extruded housing and cheap outsourced parts.

>>899224
What do you mean by the core? The neck is attached to the body and even the toughest nylon can't hold up against ~90lbs of tension.
>>
>>899397
didnt they try and patent something? Like a really stupid track system?
Like they were skimming every single 3d printing patent trying to find SOMETHING to patent.

"hotends are actually called "liquifiers", because thats what the original patent says!"
>>
So I make a couple of changes or upgrades to my prusa i3.
As you can see on the picture I fix it to the surface so it doesn't move around any more and the y axis rods are leveled. I add those clamps to the back as well. I also added a 15 x 15 square pipi in the middle (under the y belt ) so it prevents the front and back plate from buckling in when I put y belt. under tension. as a consequence the smooth linear rods are now completely straight. This two modifications made the whole frame much much much stiffer so there is almost no flex left in the drame
>>
I also design the Bowden setup for electron version of x carriage for prusa i3.
Will put stl, step and inventor files on a thingiverse some time in the future.
>>
>>899469
nice.
>>899472
What hot end are you using? Don't you also need one fan for cooling the cold end?

You should make a fan duct that wraps around the nozzle and cools the object from all sides. (example: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17768 ).
I am not a fan expert, but I think that radial fan would be a better choice for that.
>>
>>899560
i will be using E3D lite 6 hot end. On the left side it is a cold end fan (picture) in the midddle it is 50mm fan and on the right it is auto level sensor which could be put behind the x carriage (like originally came with). If needed i can always redesign the fan nozzle so it blows from more angels .
>>
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Heres a question for you 3D printer people. I have pic related. They are an attachment for the old Black & Decker Workmate folding workbenches. They are called Gripmates. Super useful. They are basically a holdfast used to clamp the work down very securely to the surface of the bench. The problem is they orange plastic bit always gets lost and its kind of important for making them work right. If I had an example of one could I get a copy made with a 3D printer that could hold up to some abuse?
>>
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>>899586
An old pic from Popular Mechanics of them in use.
>>
>>899583
I didn't realize there is space on the other side.
I really like how you just got the printer and you are already improving it.
Post results, pls
>>
>>899586
I imagine those shouldn't be too hard to make out of abs. might be even better than what's currently there being that abs would have a bit of flex to it.
>>
>>899586
I'm guessing those are made of polypropylene or polyethylene, which both have great tensile and compression strength. ABS printed at 100% infill should give sufficient strength and flexibility.

Hard to tell the functionality but it seems that when the lever is pushed down, the shaft is forced upwards, meaning there must be something holding is down.

Load bearing might be a big issue because the orange outset tabs seem to be pushing against the underside of the workbench. This is a big delamination risk. Furthermore, they seem to be coated with a thin rubber to grip the metal shaft. I don't immediately see a good and durable way of doing this.

It's really hard to tell how that thing functions because of lack of detailed information. I was able to dig up a few pictures and I noticed black stuff on the inside of the orange inserts. So that's my conclusion of how it functions. I may be completely wrong.
>>
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>>899663
Theres been a couple of different versions of the gripmate hardware over the years. The metal bits are almost always the same but the plastic bits have changed. Some versions, like the kind I have, are a single piece of hard, shinny plastic. Pic related is the best I could find. I think they are from later runs. They don't have any kind of tabs holding it into the dog hole of the workbench and just slide right in. People probably though getting the thing out of the bench by having to reach under it and push in those tabs was a pain, so B&D changed it.

Basically all they do is work like an adapter. The dog hole in the Workmate is round. The shaft of the Gripmate is rectangular with a textured back (looks like the side of a metal file). So you have this thing that allows a square peg to fit in a round hole tightly and not slip out when you crank it down. Just like a regular dog the force of holing the item keeps it secure in the hole.
>>
>>899669
In that case, ABS at 100% infill would be perfect. They wouldn't be expensive to print so making a few more extras wouldn't hurt. Plus the design is very easy to model and print.
>>
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>>899672
How tight are the tolerances for a 3D printer? The Workmate came out in the 70's when everything was still pretty much imperial so the dog holes were 3/4th of an inch in diameter... right up until they switched to metric and made them 20 mm in diameter. That is a different of less than a millimeter. They made two adapters, an orange one that was for the 20 mm holes and a black one that was for the .75 inch holes. The larger of the two wont fit in the smaller sized holes and the smaller one wobbles in the larger holes. I know the tolerances vary depending on the quality of the printer but but how nice of a printer am I going to have to find to get the size right?
>>
>>899736
FDM printer has kinda plateaued in home use printers.

Most printers can be that accurate.
It all depends on the operators comprehension of settings and tuning for the printer. Steep learning curve...
>>
>>899736
i can definitely keep a print under .005" (i say that as a conservative guess)
>>
>>899111
I really want a definitive test on the waveform of a printed electric guitar versus a wooden one. I have a feeling it has less of an impact than music snobs want to admit.

>>899394
The smug asshole in me did a little happy dance but now we have to wait longer for the great reveal of their shitty internals.

>>899736
Less than a millimeter is easy peasy. You can even get within a quarter mm without much trouble.
>>
>>899754
>You can even get within a quarter mm without much trouble.

Somewhere there is a Frenchman spinning in his grave. You don't use fractions in the metric system. A quarter of a millimeter is 250 micrometers. Or at least use a decimal and call it .25 millimeters. They didn't come up with 20 different prefixes to the meter just so you could ignore them and start using fractions like a heathen!

Nah, I'm just kidding. Fuck the metric system.
>>
>>899763
Heh. Imperial habits die hard.
>>
Another day another print :D
This time a cover - housing for MKS 1.3 board for my electron prusa i3
>>
>>899754
>less of an impact than music snobs want to admit

I didn't believe things could sound so specifically different until my career became listening to things. File formats that computers insist are identical don't sound the same. Output ports that are supposed to be the same spec break-in differently, and end up sounding different. Identical drivers can end up with very unique sounds very quickly during a break-in period. I've tested these through blind experiments. The first time I noticed it was when a compression type in a mixer program I was using was changed by someone else and they didn't let me know. It was the difference between Speex and something else that was supposed to be identical. I instantly knew the difference; I checked lines and drivers for hours.

I can guarantee you they will sound different. Will it have less of an impact? At a concert, where almost no one even knows how "tone" and "guitar" relate, probably no one will notice. But a pro in a studio would be able to tell the difference, unless the density, thickness, and composition of the printed guitar was identical to some kind of wood, and even then it would sound different than other woods.
>>
>>899878
>File formats that computers insist are identical don't sound the same.
I can tell identical bitstreams apart, at least when I know beforehand which one is which.
>>
>>899878
>I can guarantee you they will sound different.
You'll be having a go at the Concrete Guitar test, then, Mr Golden Ears?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5F2SHlfB8YE
>>
any printers here take commissions?
>>
>>899884
paid commissions?
>>
>>899885
yeah. im kicking myself from missing out on this (square enix shut down the seller and he wont do any more), but I still really want it.
if someone can get the model and 3D print it exactly how it appears in game like this one i'd gladly pay for it
>>
>>899889
i dont think anyone here has a full color powder printer like the one that printed that model.

thingiverse does have a similar file but i dont know how well it would come out on a plastic fdm machine.
>>
>>899898
damn, thanks anyway i'll keep looking
>>
>>898805 here

Still looking for a first printer. Apparently the Kossel 2020 can't print any flexible filaments or specialty filaments because of the extruder type. Is it possible to replace the extruder so I can print flexible and semi-flexible filaments as well as abs and pla?

Based on what I've heard I plan to do the magnetic joint upgrade and get a E3Dv6 hotend if I do end up getting the Kossel 2020. Apparently the E3Dv6 has a non-bowden version, will replacing the hotend with a E3Dv6 be enough to print flexible filaments?
>>
>>899967
NinjaFlex is a very very difficult filament to use.

Yes, bowden extruders simply are bad for ninjaflex.
With that said, standard old direct drive extruders dont work for shit with it either unless you have them modified specifically to ninjaflex.

The1.75mm E3dV6 and the E3d lite 6 both have PTFE tubing going through them. Buying them "Bowden" just gives you a longer length of PTFE tube and a coupler for the extruder. The bowden or non bowden version do not dictate what extruder you can use.

So no, changing to a E3D hotend will not make a delta print ninjaflex.
You would need to modify the extruder itself.

Its a poor idea to put a direct drive extruder onto a Delta, it was designed to have a Bowden Extruder mounted on top of it feeding plastic to the effector. Putting the heavy extruder right onto the effector (which needs to be light) defeats the purpose of the delta and would make it unstable.
>>
>>900064
So it's just a dead end? Is there anything else that's limited? What about hybrid filaments like metal, wood, or nylon infused PLA? And are there any flexible (or semi-flexible) filaments that might print okay?
>>
>>899882
That wasn't an object test though. To be objective, everything but the body must be identical, meaning all the hardware and neck much be ported over, including the strings. Then, they must be setup to the exact same specifications.

Most importantly, the instrument must be played by a robot.

Therefore, all of these A/B tests are garbage and offer little to no insight into how material A or B affect the sound.
>>
>>900113
The only limitation is the problems with flexible materials through a bowden. It just makes a nightmare filament even harder with bowden.

You can print any other premium filament perfectly fine (granted your hotend is good enough for it)
>>
>>900113
the reason flexible filament won't work is that it compresses. With a bowen extruder, all that material between the motor and hotend just compresses and bounces back during retraction. So whatever you can do to lessen that will help.
So yeah, just don't plan to use flexible with bowen extruders.

[disclaimer: i have never used flexible filament]
>>
you can print some flexible materials with bowden set up, but is PITA and the printing speeds are very low. Also the teflon tube should be as short as possible
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljRL5acsEmo
>>
>>900113
Maybe this kind of extruder could print flexible materials? Bowden tube is very short.
>>
Another day ,,...., another part failure :/
The y axis holder that is screwed to the print bed (part on the right) broke of. IT appears it was badly printed (thin wall little infill). I hope my "cheap" repair holds at least until I print a new one :/
On the left it is the y axis pully holder that failed first. It was printed the wrong way. (the layers were printed (z axis) in the same direction that the biggest force works)
>>
And since I had to disassemble the print bed I might as well insulate the heatbed. I glued 2 layers of ceramic fiber to the bottom of the heat bed if I ever decide to print something that requires heating up hot bed more than 50°C
>>
>>900301
Are you from Europe (I am looking at that euro cent coin)? How much did you pay for tax and import duties (or how much was overall price vs. price stated on website ($255?))?

It looks like you should re-print all of important components, just in case if they fail :)
>>
>>900309
the printer was $305 ($255 + $50 for auto level option) The tax (VAT) depends on your country. Mine was 22%. Then there is 10E money guarantee tax you pay to DHL.
But i did use the paragraph 8 in their "about us" section to get it a bit cheaper with the help of the PS
>>
>>900325
Could you explain that a bit further? I read that paragraph 8, but still don't understand. Did you contact them and they told you what to do? PS=Photoshop???
>>
>>900343
They can basically give you fake order conformation. And together with a little PS (or just Paint) you can avoid some taxes.
>>
>>900359
I'm see $255. Is this actually a good deal?
>>
>>900303
When I insulated my bed, i ended up making it uneven in heat distripution. All large prints are fucked up
>>
>>900545
that doesnt make any sense to me.
Can you post a photo of that bed with a ruller on top?
>>
>>900569
Im not that guy, but he said heat distribution not how even the bed is.

Probably talking about hot spots
>>
>>900690
ah shit. Didn't read it carefully enough.
How does this effect the prints, Do big parts come off mid print? How uneven is heat distribution ?
Did think of that.
>>
So I've been thinking about modding my Prusa I3 to extend the Y axis so I can make longer prints. See video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NokX-hLHyMA

I don't think I'll need the heated bed for what I'm printing, so in all I really need is extra long polished rods, extra long threaded rods, and an extra long piece of glass for a build plate. Is it really that simple, or will the added weight of a long piece of glass throw it off? Can I just use binder clips to attach the glass, and do I have to reprogram the firmware so it'll accept the larger print space?
>>
Does anyone have the Wanhao i3? If so can you post examples of the print quality?
>>
could you use olive oil to oil your rods ?
>>
>>901064
Yes, but it isn't like decent linear bearings are expensive.
>>
>>901142
Truly good ones are (see Misumi for example). The cheap chinese knockoffs everyone uses are dirt cheap and are thankfully adequate.
>>
>>900758
Go to your local thrift store/landfill and find yourself a toaster oven. The window will be decent quality 2-3mm borosilicate glass and can be easily found with the right dimensions. You'll have to change your firmware and likely whatever slicer and g-code pusher you're using, then you should be good to go. The extra mass on the y-axis might cause a little more "ghosting" but you can dial back on your acceleration settings for that axis if needed.
>>
when printing PLA, would it be smart to turn off or reduce heat to the heated bed once it gets to a certain height? if so, how tall should it be?
>>
>>901599
I'd say don't. The bed temperature helps maintain adhesion.
>>
Is there any material that's suitable for long-term joints in action figures?
>>
>>901613
nylon's the best for ungreased joints or gears. But I don't see why ABS wouldn't work.
>>
>>901617
In my experience from gundam plastic models ABS joints get loose quickly for some reason.
>>
>>901064
Use white lithium grease
>>
>>901619
ABS is actually really soft - I printed a filament dust filter out of ABS and running PLA through it cut a deep groove in it in fairly short order.

>>901613
PLA will probably work fine (as long as you're not planning on dunking your figurines into hot tea).
>>
Any here ever print something from Shapeways, I'm trying to print a carburetor piece for my motorcycle but it's taking forever to be printed let alone shipped? (It's steel polilshed in bronze btw)
Is this typical? I ordered on the 10th and qouted till the end of 27th.
>>
Would it be cheaper to source the parts for a Prusa i3 or just buy a kit? I'm worried about poor quality parts if I buy a kit.
>>
>>902605
The kits are really dirt cheap
You will have a hard time it being cheaper sourcing it, but at the same time youll probably end up with a better quality printer.

Look into the P3Steel and maybe import its frame, and then populate it with decent other parts. Frames otherwise arent cost effective or are cheap PVC or Acrylic which is junk you could have just gotten a kit for.
>>
my Prusa i3 has started acting up and I don't know what's causing it. Some of the time it extruded VERY little filament and other times it prints buttery smooth. It does this in regular intervals during prints leading to prints being very brittle, ugly, and often snap when attempting to pull of the print bed. I'm using the same filament, same 20mm test cubes as a week ago when it was working fine. I cleaned out the extruder's gears teeth, and cleaned out the nozzle so you can see light through it but the problem persists.
>>
>>902677
Have you ever tuned your PID?
>>
>>902032
Those laser sintering machines are very expensive to operate and they are not going to do half empty runs unless you are paying shitloads of extra. Most likely they are ordering the service from some other company, because the machines itself can cost half a million, which may add days or even weeks to the delivery time.
>>
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>>902756
never touched the PID

It appears the problem is progressively getting worse the more I use my printer. I haven't messed with any settings. I've been using PLA and flexible TPU. I first noticed it when printing wood PLA but stoped using the wood and it continues to get worse even with normal PLA.
>>
>>902677
Is it grinding the filament? If no: Is extruder stepper motor skipping steps? Maybe broken wire or loose connection?
If yes: was there any change in ambient temperature? Try rising hot end temperature. What happens?
Measure filament diameter. Is it consistent?

>Some of the time it extruded VERY little filament and other times it prints buttery smooth.
How much time is it printing (minutes, seconds,... ) and how much time it does not?
>>
>>902032
Their website states 11 business days for a typical delivery. There are only 5 business days per week, so it isn't much slower than usual.
Besides, they also have a status page for things like this, which says that shit's currently running bit slow due to large volumes.
>>
>>902677
>>902866
FIX'd

It appears to have been a partial blockage. Probably from dust, dander, or hair. Living in a house with 12 dogs will do that I guess. I had already cleared the barrel enough to see light all the way through so I eliminated that possible problem from the troubleshooting list. But after removing hot filament 20 times in a row I noticed a tiny black speck in my clear PLA. Continued doing that about 50 times, got a few more black specks out and now it's printing fine. Guess it was stuck on the wall of the barrel or something.

Time to print a dust filter.
>>
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So you guys think i need a new bed?
>>
>>902956
WTF is this? What happened?
What is the yellow thing underneath BuildTak (Kapton tape?why?) and what is silver thing?

It is supposed to be Kapton tape OR PEI build surface OR glue OR hair spray OR BuildTak and NOT everything at once.
>>
>>902956
I have a heated build plate with an aluminum plate on top of it, and i was using kapton tape on top of it for a while, then I bought some buildtak, was too lazy to take off the kapton tape, and just stuck the buildtak on top of it.

After a couple of really nice prints, my roommate insisted on opening the window because it was supposidly "too hot", and since my printer is next to the window, all my adhesion went out the window 9fucking dormies REEEE). So i started using abs glue to get adhesion, and after 5 or size of those prints, the bed in the center just gave out.

i just ordered some more buildtak and told my roomie to go fuck himself, but that bed was still spitting out decent prints around the edges before it just completely failed.
>>
>>902961
You don't open the window while printing? Enjoy your plastic fume induced liver failure nigga
>>
>>902961
You should make an enclosure or put it in a closet or something.
>>
>>902653
The P3Steel frame looks like it will cost ~$130 to import which seems high just for the frame.

Are there any kits you would recommend?
>>
>>902978
There are 2 things you need to realize about the frame

A standard Aluminum frame is ~70-80$ on ebay
Anything cheaper is melamine or PVC or acrylic which is just junk for this particular frame.

Second the P3Steel replaces all the threaded rods, and it replaces a lot of the printed parts. It makes for a much much sturdier frame.
Its much closer to a full frame than just buying some cut aluminum. Look closely at them both. I have wanted to convert my printer into a p3steel, but havent decided if its worth it. If I were building it from scratch I would totally do it.

If you want just a kit, Makerfarm makes some really decent ones. Made of plywood, but they are boxed so it shouldnt be a problem with rigidity.

Dirt cheap kits will work, but youll eventually want to dump a lot of money into them. IMO better off starting with a better frame actually worth putting money into.
>>
>>902961
Have you considered PEI? For ~$50-80 you can get a sheet of it and adhesive to stick it to glass or aluminum. Works great and is pretty much indestructible; it can easily withstand getting bashed by a nozzle at 250ºC without so much as a mark. Buildtak seems a little pricey if it's essentially a consumable.
>>
>>902992
Does it work beyond just PLA and ABS? I mostly print ABS, but I'm printing nylon on my buildtak right now.
>>
>>902992
I haven't actually tried nylon on it yet (I have a spool, I'm just too lazy to dry it). The buildtak is looking more and more interesting to me, desu. Would you generally recommend it?
>>
desu desu desu
>>
>>903045
(to be honest abbreviated now returns desu)
f'ing 4chan
>>
>>902985
I've tried to estimate the numbers to source it with the steel frame and I think it'd be $400+ in total.

The wanhao i3 claims to use a steel frame and it's $400, though I've seen shops say they'll have black friday deals on it. I might just get that.
>>
>>903043
I like it. Its really effective and so long as you don't ram into the bed with the hotend, its pretty durable.

I've printed 8 inch long parts with absolutely no adhesion issues.

t b h, I will never go back to kapton after using buildtak, but I dont have experience with PEI
>>
>>903058
Fair enough; PEI is essentially Kapton, just thicker and consequently more durable. I think I'll pick up some buildtak and try it out. Thanks anon.
>>
Ok /diy/ got a few questions.

first, i'm pretty set on getting the cheapest monoprice printer, from my understanding its a clone of a fairly good printer... despite its issues.

however i ran into a problem, and that is the cost of filament itself. getting pla pellets, and re using the support seems to be the way to go, so i'm looking for an extruder, and i'm at an absolute fucking loss.

i want to print indoors, so pla is what i'm going to use, probably print in the basement so noise and heat is away from us, fumes... not to aware of any of this, however, i have been looking into buying some for of an enclosure, likely a big plastic bucket of some sort.

but the filament extruder....

anyone got any clue of where to go with this? i want a kit, as while i could potentially build one myself, i dont have the money to dick around with failures.
>>
>>903238
Where are you located? PLA filament is $15-30 for 1kg in the US and that'll last you quite a few prints.
>>
>>903245
im honestly planning on printing 24/7 once i get it, various fun things that i just think are cool i find online, 3d models i make that i want in real life, and more serious i want to use this and it doesn't exist models.

from what i can gather, 1kg could last me half a month or so... but the ability to reuse failed prints, of which i assume there will be allot, and the ability to have a 100% fill (there are things i want to print that i wish to have weight to them) and not to mention, 2-5$ gets me a kilo of pellets, and if i go for a larger bulk, i could get that price down to 1$ a kilo opposed to the 20-50$ i would be spending on 1 kilo.

i also figure that if i dont burn through the pla fast enough, i could set up a shop and sell the overstock at half a kilo or full kilo amounts.

but nothing really talks about extruding pla, its always abs, and apparently pla is a bit harder to work with... im also not sure on the tolerances of the printer, apparently pla shrinks a hell of alot or expands... i cant get an accurate measure for what the hell i need to do, because someone mentioned the best thing to do is buy a nozzle from filastruder and drill 1.8 or 1.85 diameter hole into it for 1.75...

if i go through with this purchase i just dont want to fuck it up, that's my main concern.

than hearing that most of the extruders are sold by complete assholes really makes me question if i should even go that route.
>>
>>903238
idk what printer you're talking about, but heat, noise, and fumes are little concern.
let me put it this way, unless you're developing a way to reuse the plastic, forget about it. it'll take a long time to go through a 1kg spool anyway.

>>903252
once you're setup and calibrated, you shouldn't have much trouble as far as failed prints. and if you plan on having that much support material, you're efforts are better spent designing the parts to not need it or breaking them up into separate pieces.

if you do happen to find a good filament extrusion project, let us know and we can throw it in the sticky. There is ALOT that goes into extruding filament. idk why you'd be drilling out nozzles when really you're building a whole machine to begin with.
>>
>>903252
>>903255
Google "filastruder"
Full disclosure: I want one but don't have a well enough ventilated space in which to run it.
>>
>>903261
also, Google "Filabot"
website says this can do ABS, PLA, PC, HIPS, PS and can be used for making exotic custom blends like ABS with carbon fiber or conducting material in it. I wonder if it could make that wood blend of PLA.
>>
>>903252
>apparently pla shrinks a hell of alot or expands
I think you're a little backwards, ABS has issues with thermal expansion, not PLA. I would hold off on making a filament extruder until you have a general idea of your rate of consumption. I'd imagine getting a consistent filament with tight tolerances is a pain.
>>
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Oi, found something we'd all like

http://www.makershop.co/shop/fantasygraph

this guy leases his models under creative commons. Turns out he doesn't agree with Thingaverse's terms of service

pretty damn neat he even explains his print settings and models so there's no support needed.
>>
http://www.peachyprinter.com/
Any thoughts on this? I want to get a printer for cheap and this seems promising.
>>
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>>903469
>seems promising

Sure, if you blindly read their kikestarter.
It was funded in 2013, was supposed to ship July 2014.
They havent finished the software, they are only just now working on the scanning, the hardware isnt finalized.

You cant use regular resin, you are going to have to buy their special highway robbery priced resin because of its weak laser.

Most people dont even realize, it is not even a full kit.
You have to build your own enclosure for it. Pic related, its literally the official build instructions telling you to build it out of cardboard.

If it had shipped in 2013 when it was created, it would have been amazing.
Now you can buy an acrylic I3 printer for 250$ that is worlds better. The market is flooded with cheap printers now.
>>
>>903496
Don't feed the trolls ...
>>
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>>903496
>>903510
I didn't know this was the case. I looked into it a bit and thought it was neat but didn't know it was so far behind. plus i couldn't find any information at all about the resin needed.
So then what's the word on lithograph printing as far as kits or projects?

pic unrelated, just something i printed from
>>903422
>>
Are metal infused plastics more durable? I'm looking for something that's highly resistant to wear/erosion and warping (moving gears and joints)
>>
>>903602
Nope, just aesthetic. Nylon might work for you.
>>
>>903602
They are actually weaker, most are just PLA with fine dust mixed in.
>>
>>903587
Dont get me wrong, as much as everyone hates on it, if it ever starts shipping a lot of us will buy it just to play around with it as a 2nd or 3rd printer.
Its just an awful idea as a first printer, and who knows when itll actually come out.

>as far as kits or projects?
I havent seen too many kits.

Most of them I see are based on DLP Projectors, which is pretty cool if you can find a used one cheap.
>>
>>903647
Still. The main selling point seems to be saving money on a dac by using your iPhones headphone jack. What the fuck.
>>
>>903648
It really wasnt that long ago that cheap printer kits didnt exist, combine that with the hype from expiring patents caused insane stir.

I bought my Prusa I3 kit in December of 2013. I paid right at 550$ cheapest i3 at the time, back when the very crappy first generation Printrbot Simple wood was ~450$ and was the cheapest printer on the market.

Thats why MakiBox and Pirate 3D and those other kickstarter printers just literally blew up with backers.

I wish they would have put peachy at like a 300$ price point and make it a lot more fleshed out. Like maybe a real Z axis system and none of their rigged stuff.
>>
>>903614
>>903643
That's pretty lame. Is nylon really the be-all end-all for moving parts?
>>
is there any way to infuse ABS or PLA with epoxy resin or anything for added strength? Like how they dip printed sand stone in cyanoacrylate to strengthen it.
>>
>>903647
Fumes from FDM are one thing, but I have exactly zero interest in storing liquid polymer resins of any kind where I live. Shit's nasty yo.

If I had a detached shop, that'd be a different story.
>>
>>903725
XTC-3D coating from Smooth-On is a post-print paint on epoxy that is supposedly impact resistant.
Though to be honest I haven't seen anyone actually testing how strong the stuff is outside of Smooth-Ons own company videos.
>>
>>903743
Speaking of post processing, is there any process that can smooth out HIPS prints like acetone vapor treatment does for ABS?
>>
>>903758
Acetone is a solvent for ABS
Limonene is a solvent for HIPS

I would assume replacing the acetone with Limonene in your vapor chamber would be enough, no?
>>
>>903770
Good point. But then again do I really want to risk blowing myself up?
>>
>>902985
Do you know how long OrballoPrinting takes to ship? They seem to be claiming world-wide shipping for a very cheap price but it sounds strange to me.
>>
>>903255
yea, i want to avoid having to glue as much as possible, some models will demand it, while others not so much.

as for the filament extruder, you have the 250$ kit extruder that is more or less you self build the whole damn thing, i think the cheapest you can get a kit that extrudes for would be about 70$ if you have the know how to build it from scratch and no instruction.

the filastruder is a 300-310$ kit, the issue i have with it is there is no documentation for it at all, other than "these people said these types of plastic also work"

than you have the filibot which comes in at 500-1000$, and extruderbot that comes in at 2000~

there are various other kits too, but expense becomes an issue.

>>903399
from my understanding and listening to peoples reviews, pla cooling is an issue, kinking is an issue and the guy i was listening to was saying you need to drill a bigger than you think you need nozzle for it.

i'm thinking i just just print 1 year using just spools, hell, buy then someone may have come out with an extruder that isn't retardedly expensive, granted if i run out of 1kg in a month i may consider it sooner
>>
>>903816
You know that acetone's quite flammable as well, right?
>>
>>903587
>SLA Kits/projects
Your best bet is buildyourownsla.com
Be warend though, /diy/ is a racetrack compared to it.
>>903726
Liquid photopolymers vary quite a bit when it comes to how "nasty" they are. I still got a can of casting resin I probably will never open again, But the current resins specially made for SLA machines are a lot less irritating. You still should wear gloves and eye protection though, and handling them can be a chore. So I get your point.
>>
>>903816
why do you come to this board if you don't want to blow you're self up possibly?
>>
>>896087
increase the shell density.
>>
Does anybody know is there any 3d printing store that is going to have any good deals on black friday or cyber monday? In Europe if possible.

I need to buy a couple spools of filament
>>
>>903948
e3d surprises sometimes with additional free filament
>>
so I'm slowly acquiring stepper motors from certain equipment in a certain large chain store for free. not stealing, but just ensuring the equipment will run well by replacing before they 'go bad.'
My issue is, with a potential unlimited amount of free stepper motors, I want to build a dual motor z axis printer and cnc router. has anyone seen this before?
Will 2 identical motors spin at a close enough degree to make this doable?
also, this won't be a kit build, it will be completely DIY, minus generic controls.
Where can I buy all the needed mechanical parts, and what are your thoughts on t slot frame systems? is there a better or cheaper alternative?
>>
>>903986
forgot my generic non-related attention grabbing image.
>>
>>903986
>Will 2 identical motors spin at a close enough degree
Yes but if you didn't know about this or were unable to find the answer via an internet search I doubt you'll make it.
>>
>>903992
I've never made it in any other aspect of life, no reason this should work out.
Thanks though.
>>
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>>903993
do you know how stepper motors work? that's something you should really understand, especially if you plan to build your own

and depending on the cnc router, if it's a table with short z axis travel, you'd only need one stepper anyway

I'd still say you're better off starting with a kit. idk if you can find someone to work with you but you may be able to contact them and order a kit without the motors, though i expect you'd save $50 at most. what are the motors you're getting?
>>
>>904009
I'll post pictures when I get home. as you both have pointed out, I'm starting with very basic electrical knowledge. I've watched YouTube videos on how stepper motors work, so I'm pretty much an expert in that aspect.
I've ordered some 8020 10 series basics to get me going. I'll be using leadscrews for z, and some sort of track system for x and y. most likely some sort of roller clip-on deal. I already have 70% of my parts planned out, but the extruder is still a mystery to me. not sure if I am willing to buy pre-made because of the prices, unless some /diy/er can point me in the direction of a decent one that isn't $150.

anyhow, once I build a working xy frame, I'll use that for a printer, and build another more rigid version for a dremel CNC with a longer then usual z axis. actually, my dimensions so far won't exceed x=<1.2in, y=<4in, z=<3in. my main problem will be using a dremel 3 inches deep. bit extensions?
>>
>>904013
>extruder
>$150
You mean the hot end? E3D lites are like $30. All-metal ones are $80. If you don't have your own drill press and lathe then it's not worth it to try to make your own.
>>
>>904013
Why is your frame going to be so small? It's going to be hard to make a CNC that small that is accurate and stable.
>>
>>904029
>It's going to be hard to make a CNC that small that is accurate and stable.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:902826
>>
>>904123
Not a router.
>>
>>903948
Push Plastic has had "Buy Two rolls, get one free" the last 2 years in a row
I think Filastruder had like 20% off of their E3D hotends

There wasnt much else I could see, and both of those are USA based.
>>
>>903828
I have no clue, they are selling them on Ebay for 120 USD free shipping.

Going to their website, its only 45 euros +12 euros for hardware.
So it seems shipping pretty much costs as much as the hardware does, which isnt surprising on how heavy the package is.

I almost ordered something from KitPrinter3D, it showed a pretty low shipping price.
When I finally was ready to place the order, the actual shipping quadrupled from the original estimate, so I cancelled it.
>>
>>904029
that's work area size. my actual frame of s somewhere around 10x12x10
>>
>>904134
Okay, I think that will probably be the case with orballo. Why is it impossible to find anyone in the states producing these frames? Jeez.

I did find a google profile of someone who built an i3 using the P3Steel frame from Orballo and apparently it was far from good quality.
>>
>>904159
>Why is it impossible to find anyone in the states producing these frames?

My guess, because its designed specifically for 3mm steel.
Expensive in the USA, if you cut it out in 1/8in steel it simply wouldnt fit.
>>
I've never 3D printed anything ever, so my professor bought me a Da Vinci Jr.
We know all of the obvious setbacks, since it was immediately obvious how horrifically proprietary this thing is.
Since I have a ~6" cubed work area, I am going to need to assemble pieces together.
To that end, I'm going to need to buy some Weld-On and experiment with how tight the tolerances become when I fuse the PLA chunks together.
I've never used a CAD program to design anything that fits together, so I don't know how I would set up tolerances for things like that.
How would you do that for Autodesk Inventor or Fusion 360?
>>
For those with experience customizing and messing with extruders:

About how much torque does a not-bowden extruder require to perform satisfactorily, assuming high performance conditions? Throughout my personal research, I have seen extruders using the "standard" nema 17 motors in a ~1:4 ratio geartrain. This would greatly increase the torque provided by an already strong motor. Is that boost necessary, and is the resulting reduction in maximum extrusion speed considered a loss, or is it insignificant compared to the extrusion speeds encountered in operation? Does this setup offer a distinct advantage over direct drive mk8-style gear? The latter seems to be very common, which suggests that it performs well enough to doubt the necessity of a gear train.

And then I also see smaller motors (nema 11 or 14) with more extreme gear ratios. This makes me think that the torque of a "standard" nema 17 is necessary, while the reduction in speed is inconsequential. Will this setup impact maximum printing speed? The increase in precision and the small form factor of a tiny stepper with a gearbox is very attractive, but I would not be so willing to adopt the design if it means sacrificing the ability to push a shitload of plastic for thick layers or fast printing speeds.

tl;dr - What type of extruder set up is best for keeping up with fat layers or high printing speeds on a good-quality machine?
>>
Are there any good black friday deals on printer kits?
>>
>>904187
can't say what deals Amazon will have but they're offering 10% cashback if you use one of their credit cards. Might be worth it when combined with some other black Friday deals. I know I'll be stocking up on filament that day.
>>
what does the g in .gcode stand for?
>>
>>904184
>About how much torque does a not-bowden extruder require to perform satisfactorily, assuming high performance conditions?

Very tricky question.
It all depends on your filament size and your setup.
1.75mm needs a much lower nozzle force than 3mm filament.
You dont actually need gearing for torque on 1.75, hence why the straight MK7/MK8 gears are popular.

With that being said, things vastly change depending on the nozzle size, temps, and speed of your printer. That all comes down to knowing and tweaking the limits of your personal printer.
>>
Hey so sorry for some probably pretty shitty questions.

>what's the point of a heated bed?

>this prusa i3 seems cheap, but is it any good and can it print with ABS?

>what are some good resources and information to know before getting myself into this?
>>
>>904207
A heated bed helps with print quality and I'd assume it makes it easier to get prints off although I have no experience using it. I've heard the prusa i3 is good enough, just do research on it and make sure its a printer you want to use.
>>
>>904209
It seems like it ~9x9x9 print area, heated bed, can print ABS.

I'm just wondering why it's so damn cheap. Is it the kind of thing a scrub wouldn't be able to handle?
>>
>>904210
>>904207
Heated Bed helps with adhesion and is pretty much a requirement for ABS prints.
Prusa's are quite popular and for that very reason can be a decent investment. In a still relatively new and growing market like 3d printers the ones with a larger userbase will have much more comprehensive information about any problems you'll run into in the future, as well as how to get started.
Also, again, with how new this stuff is price isn't really representative of quality. I should know. I own a Makergear M2 and despite reviews jizzing all over it and its price it isn't without its problems.
In any case you should link the exact Prusa i3 you're interested in, which should shed more light onto why it's priced the way it is.
>>
>>904214
Appreciate the help man, this is what I was looking at.

https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/electron-3d-prusa-i3-kit?search=prusa&sort=p.price&order=ASC
>>
>>904214
What problems does your M2 have anon? I never encountered anything that wasn't an easy fix in 3 years.
>>
>>904216
This might be an interesting read
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?406,568316
Sounds like these people have been having trouble with getting the thing working at all and have spent more time ordering replacement parts instead of actually printing anything. Couple that with poor customer support (which can be absolutely key to 3d printer hobbyists) and it looks like that particular Prusa might be a bit iffy. Apparently the printer is also known as a "Migbot Prusa i3" so you can probably find more information about it searching with that name.
>>904217
The extruder motor mount being a printed piece of ABS is my biggest issue. I've had the thing stress and snap on me more than a handful of times. Luckily I managed to catch the stress marks and print new ones each time before the current one completely crapped out. It probably wouldn't be that big of an issue to me on any other printer but at the M2's price point you'd think they would have gone with something sturdier. I hear they addressed that problem with the dual extruder but that's a $300-some upgrade.

The other is probably more a case of plain bad luck. I had the heated bed wires completely fry and snap inexplicably. And of course it had to happen a week after my warranty expired.
Don't get me wrong. I absolutely love the thing when problems like that don't rear their ugly head. But I guess that describes a lot of the 3D printer experience.
>>
>>904228
Are there any reasonable printers under $500, or any that are easy to get up and running and work with? Am I better off just saving up a bit?
>>
>>904229
At below $500 you're going to end up with reprap kits and their variants. In other words a collection of parts that you're going to have to put together yourself. They should be decent assuming you don't screw things up during the build process, and repair and upgrades should be easy since you as the builder should know exactly what goes where and how everything works. Of course the build process itself can seem like a daunting task to people just starting out.

Prebuilts at this price point can be tempting but they're cheaper for a reason. As far as I know the Da Vinci are the only series of prebuilts that sit in or below the $500 range. They sell them so cheap because they make all their money back with a machine that only accepts expensive filament cartridges, as well as garbage proprietary software. Probably best to avoid them.

In short, if you don't want to mess around with a kit or get gouged for the rest of your life you might be better off saving up. Otherwise at $500 a kit should be fine if you're up to the task.
>>
>>904229
The Wanhao Duplicator i3 is a preassembled Prusa i3 for $400. It uses a steel frame so it should be higher quality than most of those acrylic Prusa i3 kits on that site. Or try the folgertech Kossel 2020
>>
>>904190
I'm not sure but I think it comes from G0 and G1 being the most used commands
>>
>>904216
>https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/electron-3d-prusa-i3-kit?search=prusa&sort=p.price&order=ASC

I have this one and a couple of other ppl on here bough it as well. IT is ok buy but it need some in my opinion necessarily upgrades even before you start printing. Also over all set up is not that hard if I look back.
This is the part I designed and printed for my Bowden set up (upgrade I plan to do latter)
>>
>>904296
Not that other anon but are acrylic and melamine box (or half box I guess) frames really worse than single sheet aluminum frames? Shouldn't the gussets make a box frame better?
>>
>>904394
gussets dont account for warping and cracking due to heat
>>
>>904407
Isn't melamine extremely heat resistant?
>>
>>903932
obvious answer
>>
Noob question.

Has anyone played around with a hydraulic 3D printer? As in one that uses hydraulics instead of steppers to directly control it. "Electro-hydraulic actuators"
>>
Anyone know if the stock Folgertech Kossel 2020 can print nylon?
>>
>>904590
It only runs up to 230 celcius. so no.
>>
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>>904544
>Electro-hydraulic actuator replace hydraulic systems with self-contained actuators operated solely by electrical power.
Wouldn't realy make sense unless you could get them cheap.
>>
>>904591
Okay, so I would need an all metal hotend like a E3Dv6 w/ bowden addon?
>>
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>>904165
Differs by software package. Google-senpai is great help.
If you're asking about setting paths like a cnc, that's handled by the slicer, which also varies.

>>904207
Heated beds reduce warping on the base of prints with filaments that have a high degree of thermal expansion.

What can and can't be printed mostly depends on your hotend, not the design of the printer. That being said, PLA and ABS are the most entry-level of filaments. Literally every hotend can print them.

Read some build instructions and Google what you don't understand. Trying to make heads or tails of the reprap wiki directory is a futile effort.

>>904296
Is that a fan shroud? Small fans can't into compression.

>>904602
Yes
>>
>>904394
Acrylic frames are quite bendy, but if you fixate them to the surface like I did >>899469 and add some other modds to strengthen the frame, they become surprisingly rigid.
>>904616
it is a cooling nozzle for 50mm fan. I will probably cut the exhaust hole a bitt bigger.
>>
>>904721
>Acrylic frames are quite bendy
And tend to crack over time, even with no-to minimal stress.
>>
>>904209
you should understand that the prusa i3 is from the reprap project and that several companies sell them but usually have differences in material or design. However they essentially all work the same and usually have the same code and electronics. Just be aware of that when generalizing the i3, some companies use cheaper materials than others.
In my case, I got the prusa i3v from Makerfarm. it has a wood laser cut frame and what sets it apart from other i3's is it uses V-slotted aluminum rails and bearings instead of the hardened rod and Thompson bearings most other kits use. Other than that, software wise, prusa i3's are usually the same.
>>
>>904802
What's the difference between their Pegasus 8" and the Prusa i3v?
>>
>>904809
One is a slim frame made of extruded aluminum, the other is their typical boxed plywood frame
>>
>>904809
yeah, looks like it's just the frame construction. Probably cheaper to just throw in more aluminum and save on laser cutting time. I wouldn't necessarily think it's less stable than the i3v.
Nice to see them still finding ways to make printers cheaper though
>>
>>904809
Pegasus is a newer design using openbuilds rails for construction. It's seemingly cheaper and better as they're the new "flagship" product. Makerfarm provides an upgrade kit to convert their old i3 and i3v to the Pegasus frame.
>>
When ever my Migbot i3 Prusa is at layer height 0.38-0.45mm my extruder stepper starts buzzing loudly. Every time, only on the second layer it does this and I can't fathom why.

Also, I've been running my machine on and off for about a month with no heat sinks on the stepper driver chips with no apparent ill effects. I forgot all about it till now. Can I just ignore those heatsinks for now that it appears to be working just fine, or will it cause problems eventually in the long run?
>>
>>905337
my 3d printer is broken but its working fine
uhhhh.....
>>
>>905337
sure that's not the fan powering at too low a pwm? too low to start spinning but enough to keep it spinning once it's running?
>>
>>905337
No idea wrt the buzzing - maybe a fan as suggested or a mechanical resonance somewhere?

For the heatsinks, they're generally not necessary for normal operation, especially if you have active cooling on your electronics. That being said, I've found it handy to have a set of extra stepper driver boards on hand; they're cheap and do occasionally punk out for no obvious reason.
>>
>>905337
It depends on how many amps you're pumping into your steppers. IIRC a4988's can dissipate about 1.2 amps without any problems.
>>
>>904205

Thank you for your feedback! If a gear reduction is unnecessary with a the nema 17 motors commonly used in printers, then I maybe I can use a nema 14 motor in a gear train or with its own gearbox, granted the entire assembly weighs less than a nema 17 motor.
>>
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hey guys,

I'm no /diy/ regular and just stumbled upon this thread.
I'm a Industrial Designer and I'm working on a project right now that could benefit a lot from some 3d Printing.

basically I'm making rather abstracted architectural models for a speculative scenario, that are to be used in the open ocean.
It's more of a conversation starter than a actual exploration of possible solutions.

here's a super quick render of one of the models. the scale would be rather big and not everything will be printed.

If you want to know more about about the project or would like some files to play around with ,just drop me an email. ( [email protected] )

I'm off to work now so I'll probably wont reply here
>>
>>905554
Looks pretty simple. It wolud need to be split into several parts for best results but guessing from your post you seem to understand that. Unless the model gets way more complicated or to big pretty much anyone with a FDM/FFF machine should be able to help you.
Sexy repraps in your area:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=zEbuX0pKL1CY.kjch9ZRbaatc&ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0
>>
>>905602

jep it's intentionally simple and vague and I'm sure I can prototype most part traditionaly , but I'm sure some would benefit from beeing printed.
I have a little bit of printing experience my selfe but currently no access to a printer.

that site seems great , thank a lot
>>
Why is getting aluminum laser cut so expensive?
>>
Laser cutting is bad process for cutting aluminum,due to aluminum being highly reflective an thermally conductive. Waterjet is normally used, which is more expensive process.
>>
>>905984
Seriously? Okay, can't they just saw it?
>>
>>905989

The pieces would still need to be machined in order to achieve their precise dimensions. This is also very expensive. Laser cutting and waterjet processes are much quicker than machining processes, which likely makes it cheaper to produce a large number of parts.
>>
Where do you guys put your 3d printers? The only place I could think of to put one is in a unheated utility room and seen as I live in the UK it can get very cold in there. I've been looking at reprap i3 kits, but I imagine they don't really work to well when the room temp drops too low.
Oh and I don't think heating the room will work very well as it's quite large and not very well insulated.
>>
>>906066
Spare bedroom with a window for ventilation. Gets pretty stinky when printing ABS, so I sometimes stuff a towel under the door (makes me feel like a teenager sneaking cigarettes lol).
>>
>>906066
desk, with my computer
>>
>>906066
In a cheap cabinet/enclosure with a glass door lined with weather stripping to create a nice seal.
I cut a vent into the top and pipe out my window. When printing ABS I usually keep the cabinet door closed to keep the heat up though I may crack it open a smidge to ensure it doesn't get TOO hot. I'm no scientist but I'm guessing the vent fan plus the small crack creates something of a fume hood effect, so even with the door open a tiny bit I still don't smell any fumes.
>>
>>906126
How cold does the room where you have this set up get?
>>
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>>906135
If it's cold outside it's even colder in the room.
The enclosure looks something like this. Same cabinet. Though I only use one door and, like I said before, I cut a fan sized hole in the top corner for venting.
>>
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1924187374/replicape-a-smart-and-quiet-3d-printer-control-boa/description

Thoughts?
>>
>>906767
I've never had a problem with my control board being loud.
>>
>>906857
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6Bxoqr8QlY
>>
>>906863
I'm not about to watch a 10 minute video about some random stepper drivers.
>>
>>906767
Ramps 1.4 is fine for me
And I have DRV8825 steppers which are quiet enough.
Not enough positives to really jump ship, Ramps is solid.

>>906857
>>906865
Wow
>>
>>906767
Multitouch display, silent steppers, and 2 200MHz processors sound pretty nice. One thing I don't understand, is it just a shield for a Beaglebone Black or a standalone board?
>>
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Anyone know where I can get a decent 3d printer kit in the UK? Bit wary of the multitude of Reprap I3s on eBay and sites that look like they're selling overpriced Repraps.
The best one I've found so far is the the Ormerod 2 kit that RS Components are selling:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/3d-printers/8111855/
Is it any good? Are there better kits I can get?
Oh and I am new to the whole 3d printing thing, but I'm no stranger to tinkering with stuff.
>>
>>906898
Just a shield as I understand it.

>>906870
I've been running ramps forever too without issue, however I do want to start running octoprint to remotely monitor my setup(s). Supposedly the beaglebone this bad boy plugs into can drive the printer and host a webcam app simultaneously.

Full disclosure: I supported the most recent kickstarter and am eagerly awaiting delivery.
>>
>>906898
Did some more digging. The Replicape is a shield (or "cape") for the beaglebone, which by itself is a pretty nice ARM-based controller somewhere between an RPI and an arduino. Some of the features they tout in the Kickstarter, like octoprint, slicing, and dedicated processors, come from the beaglebone itself rather than anything the shield does. Considering it can replace any other 32 bit controller for a similar price, (BB + Replicape ~ $50 + ~$90) I welcome their contributions. That being said, there seems to be a lack of documentation regarding the beaglebone firmware.
>>
>>906857
The "quiet" part doesn't really impact me - my printer's in another room (hence wanting to run octoprint so I can watch it from my living room ... I'm a lazy, lazy man).
>>
>>906937
The developer has some blog posts regarding the specific "firmware," (they call it a "daemon" but functionally it's the same) but I agree, the lack of documentation is a bit of a concern. It is open source, however, so much is posted to Github. Essentially the beaglebone runs a pared down linux distro (/tips fedora lol).
>>
>>903948
If anyone is buying filament: 3D Prima has 25% off on all filaments, and there is also free shipping within EU if you order for more than 100€.
>>
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Do any 3D printers print bulletproof material?
>>
>>906925
That geometry is the worst. Prone to vibrations in all directions.
>>
is there anyway to get other filament to work with the Davinci? Like can you hack it to work?
>>
>>907049
Can't you install custom firmware that lets you use whatever filament you want?
>>
>>906978
well technically yes... but "bulletproof" does not have to mean "flexible and thin enough to be usefull"...
>>
>>906978
Anything is bulletproof in large enough amounts.
>>
Anyone have experience using metal fill (copper/bronze/steel) PLAs to make stuff?

My boss is interested in using those to make display plaques of some of our designs and wants them to look like cast bronze statues. But he's cheap and is hoping we can just order the filament and make them in house on our prototyping printers.

Do things printed with that actually polish up that well? Are tumblers better than just surface polishing with a brush and paste?
>>
I ordered a Wanhao Di3 v2 for my first printer because it was on sale. But I'm having second thoughts about whether I should have just gone with the Folgertech Kossel.
>>
>>907167
The end results after polishing look very good but the material tends to screw up at the final layer. Complicated shapes might cause trouble.
>>
>>907167
I've been using wood filled PLA and learned it works best at high temperature and with a large nozzle. It also oozes like crazy makes lots of stringy messes. Will play with retraction settings a bit and see if it helps but I doubt it.
>>
>>907167
Just a FYI

Those metal filled plastics are not any stronger. In fact they're weaker than normal PLA. If you want strength your best bet is print in normal PLA/ABS, coat your print in conductive ink and plate it with a /diy/ electroplating kit.
>>
>>907357
Yeah, I know they're weaker, but these are going to just be display pieces.

For polishing is it better to just put them in a tumbler with similar metal powder/metal bits till it's shiny or is sanding and polishing with metal polish better?
>>
I'm working on a kossell kit and, long story short, the heated bed got fucked.

Can I still finish putting it together without the thermistor/heated bed power and wait till I can ship in a new bed? Will it work?

I looked at the source for the firm ware and it implied that it wont heat unless the pin attached is actually showing a connection. This makes me think it's ok.
>>
>>907149
>>907160

Which printers print bulletproof material then? I want to buy
>>
>>907555

I suggest you put a little more cognitive effort into understanding the meaning of the two posts you referenced.
>>
>>903261
>>903299

do these filament producing machines work with recycled plastic? or are you forced to used pellets?
>>
>>907578
Site says if you cut leftover pieces down to pellet size it should work but there's no guarantee the end result will be consistent.
>>
Can anyone recommend cheap but good PLA? I'm looking at Polymax and Polyplus but they seem pricey for like 700g
>>
>>907673
http://pushplastic.com/
i've gotten this before and they're having a sale now. Buy two get one free.
$30 per 1kg seems pretty standard pricing but these guys will do even bigger spools and have free shipping.
>>
>>898911
Socket head bolts
if that clarifies anything
>>
>>907555
I think this is what you are looking for:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXS92ZHLIsg
>>
>>906974
Any one bought filament from 3D prima
now that they have black Friday discount?
http://www.3dprima.com/en/
Is discount still valid on Sunday 29.11? When I go to checkout right until confirm order it looks like there is no discount.
Does anyone knows when discount is applied ?
>>
>>907817
I bought somethings on Friday. On top right side where it says Your cart was shown the price with 25% discount and also in checkout the discount was already applied. I guess its over now.
>>
>>907823
damn i wanted to buy over 100E with free shipping
oh well
>>
>>907823
>>907830
>>907817
It appears there was a glitch and the discount was not applied. Not it is fixed and the deal is on until Monday 30.11 23.59 CET
>>
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>>907683
According to some study push plastic has the worst strength and is basically shit-tier, bottom of the barrel stuff.
>>
>>908005
why do they compare one's "premium" pla to another's standard pla and not include the standard from the same company?

http://my3dmatter.com/are-improved-pla-and-abs-filaments-truly-better/
>>
Is this a good kit for a beginner? Does anyone know if the parts from reprapmall are of decent quality?

I'm pretty technically skilled when it comes to software and electronics hardware assembly, the only thing I don't have much experience with is soldering. I'm willing to go the extra mile to learn stuff if it means a better and cheaper printer. But I don't want poor quality construction to let me down.

http://www.reprapmall.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=114
>>
>>908416
Pay the extra for the folgertech one. Also, soldering isn't that hard. You can buy a set up for $30-$40 including the solder (you want tin/lead) and some wire to practice on.
>>
>>908456
thanks. already got the soldering stuff. I'm using the wire it came with; I don't think it's very good but I'll try to make do with it until I can't stand it anymore. I'm a cheap asshole like that.
>>
just ordered the folgertech model along with a roll of filament. Wish me luck!
>>
What does /diy/ think about diy filament extruders?

How difficult is it to get a good, consistent filament?
Thread posts: 325
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