Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 705. page

>>917923
>I wanna cover carpet on my floor.
>I don't want to damage the laminate
Get an area rug.
>groundfloor and there's poor insulation between the ground and laminates I want some heat insulation too.
Sounds like a basement cement floor. That's always going to be cold unless radiant heating is installed.
>also one of my walls catches the north wind and its very cold to the touch.
Get another area rug and hang it on the wall.

>>917923
Budget?

Tear it all up. Lay rigid insulation, sleepers, and plywood. Carpet that shit.

just smear mud on the walls like your hut in syria. hope your new family embraces the culture.

jk, i dont give a fuck frank

im from syria

>>917918
Just nail em to the wall like the good ol days.

>>917902
If your company gives you tools, work a few months with them
Youll quickly see what you do and dont use, and from there can buy your own.

>>917902
What do you mean by taping? Drywall?

I don't see a measuring tape or an electrical multimeter on your list, those are pretty fundamental.

You really have to look at the tasks you're doing. If you're not taking a stupidly long time to finish a task, not damaging finishes, not stripping fasteners and so on, you're probably using the right tools.

If you want to make yourself more valuable, start by building skills. Are there any tasks that you're consistently asking someone to help you finish?

>>917902
Irwin everything is great, channels specifically.

>>917618
A MIDI to CV converter would be more universal and less invasive, and there's probably plenty of existing published designs.

how does the doorframe/bolt part of the lock work? It might be easier to unlock the door that way than by unlocking and twisting the knob. You know, like how one can unlock a stupidly installed door with a credit card or something.

>>917563
I don't have access to the doors right now, but I've tried unlocking them with a credit card and it didn't work. Considering the high rate of theft among people who don't lock their doors, I'm assuming the university has installed doors that are a bit harder to unlock with cheap tricks than your average dorm room door.

>>917573
>I've tried unlocking them with a credit card and it didn't work.
did you try from the inside though? also using a hook or L of sheet metal? really the test for this is whether or not you can shut the door while it's locked.

>>917552
You should be using 3m LSE film, as that's what phones are assembled with.

Clean and degrease the surfaces first.

If you need to fill a gap (I'd replace the bent component, myself), you could probably use layers.

I have the exact same issue with a Z1 Compact. The metal frame that holds all the componants is warped, and there is no real way to straighten that part. Not even sure it's replacable, I've not seen them on Ebay.

I have found Unibond Repair Extreme glue works quite well, it's flexible so will compensate for the warping, but still hold the screen in place. A little heat will loosen it enough to peel apart again at a later date.

My real problem is that aftermarket screens are no-where near as robust as the original Sony one.

>>917556
Thanks. Yes I would like to replace the part or bend it back in shape, but it's the metallic body/frame that's bent. Tricky to bend back, and a replacement part cost almost half as much as I paid for the entire phone.

>>917566
I do have the same experience with cheap replacement screens, backlight bleeding all around and super sensitive to touch.

The gears are what give it it's speed. Without them, it's just a high torque motor. Potentially useful, but not as an angle grinder.

I guess you could put a belt drive on it and make your own lathe. why not just buy the two gears for it?

>>917500
One of the standard ways to prevent something like this messing up your drainage is to dig 1-2 feet down, put down plastic sheeting on tamped earth at an angle, with the part against the wall attached a few inches higher than the start of the ramp, then fill with soil.
As long as the soil has good drainage (which it should, since nothing grows in clay anyway) then it'll be fine.
moisture against exterior walls is fine, it's water pooling against them (both on the surface and underground) that causes foundation issues.

Doing a pond that way is just asking for trouble, though. since usually ponds are dug (since the weight of the water would shift bricks like that anyway), it wouldn't be any more work to put it several feet from the house anyway.

>>917513
>As long as the soil has good drainage (which it should, since nothing grows in clay anyway)


Maybe I am missing something here, but clay does not have good drainage.

>>917500

just leave a brick out, or put a drainline in a hole in the brick wall. Dig out all your shit soil like clay/ heavy rocks. Fill the bottom with 4 inches of 3/4 process or gravel. If it's small don't worry about infiltration/moisture levels unless it's mold tier. Get plants that are fucking hearty. Also with pond, take a shitload of news papers, wet them down, and paper mache the liner for your pond and put very thick black plastic over it. You need 4- 6inches of newspaper.

If its possible I would like to use cr123 batteries to power a small led because I have so many extra of those.

I was looking for some kind of small light I could connect it to that would flash or not use much power.

Something like this fake car alarm

http://www.amazon.com/RED-Flashing-Auto-Theft-Deterrent/dp/B00LCBIJYK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450583833&sr=8-1&keywords=led+flashing+alarm


And then wire it in like shown in this vid

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CK_z_e6PU70


I cant tell if the LED in that device flashes on it own or if it has some board inside i cant see.


What kind of led light would you guys use instead of the buzzer shown in the vid.

File: 4-th grade circuits.gif (30KB, 310x396px) Image search: [Google]

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they teach this stuff int the 4-th grade, dude. are you an 8-yo dropout?

Ya I understand the circuit.

I think I am going to get some of these LED's, the listing says they flash and blink and they need 12 volt dc

http://www.amazon.com/20pcs-Blue-Flashing-Light-Wired/dp/B00EE43ASW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_121_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51et9oPSo9L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KP0F3WHKKVAABY9HV80

I will wire up a bunch of my cr123's till I get 12 volts and make the circuit.

I am guessing it will not really need all 12 volts to make them blink. Maybe 9 will do.

The fake car alarm one I showed only has two AA batteries and they are only 1.5 volts each.

>>917369
i got a hammock from my sister
our uncle built us swings out of scaffolding poles
the top bar had bolts so i decided the bolts would be perfect to hang the hammock from
because of the legs i had to have one swing at 90 degrees to the other.
as soon as i sat in it the swing toppled over and nearly crushed me to death
the swing was heavy, took 3 people to lift it
landed on a lawnmower and fucking annihilated it
so just be careful i guess is the message.

>>917377
LOL. Thanks for the advice!

>>917369
For all the best info go over to hammock forums. TONS of diy shit there. The guys there really know their stuff and have come up with some brilliant solutions . The only metal on my suspension are some aluminium clips they call "dutch clips" for the straps that go around the tree. Everything else is static knots that never get undone, or various splices.

Dyneema rope is your friend. Unless you're a featherwight I strongly suggest using the 1/8"rope over the 7/64. It just feels sturdier to lie in and doesn't have a bouncy feel.

File: secret-cia-spy-gadgets.jpg (38KB, 770x578px) Image search: [Google]

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Here's what the cops have to track cell phones with.

https://theintercept.com/surveillance-catalogue/

>>917353
FYI, you can get drones from Walmart now.

http://www.walmart.com/c/kp/quadcopters

The NSA leaks included information about an actual catalog of electronic surveillance devices that operatives could order. Presumably there's a lab in some basement in Washington that just churns them out. And that was years ago.

These things are pretty terrifying, and almost certainly used widely by spooks and sophisticated criminals
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stingray_phone_tracker

Laser microphones have a similar "you can't hide" feeling.

Don't forget that your imaginary spooks will need HUMINT to find their targets--gadgets alone will leave you sorting grains of sand with a microscope.

One of my favorite tricks from the cold war--

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Thing_%28listening_device%29
This positively boggles the mind. Today it would probably be possible to power even sophisticated electronics with a microwave beam. I imagine high value installations have detectors set up to counter it.

Rootkits and the like that turn electronic devices into a bug or betray the user's private data are so easily available and can be spread so casually, they're almost boring.

^the harp is upside-down so I can mess with the photo-resistors

here's the code 1 of 2:

/*

MIDI-enabled Laser Harp
SOURCE: http://open-source-energy.org/?topic=1129.0

See: MIDI Technical Specifications
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIDI#Technical_specifications

*/

#define MIDI_LASER_COUNT 9
#define MIDI_LASER_OCTAVE_DOWN 0
#define MIDI_LASER_OCTAVE_UP 8

short midiCalibrateAmbientLight = 1023;
boolean midiLaserState[MIDI_LASER_COUNT] = {false, false, false, false, false, false, false, false, false};
byte midiNotes[MIDI_LASER_COUNT] = {0, 0, 2, 4, 5, 7, 9, 11, 0};
byte midiOctave = 5;
byte midiPinLaser[MIDI_LASER_COUNT] = {3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11};
byte midiPinVelocity = A0;
unsigned long midiRateLimit[MIDI_LASER_COUNT] = {0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0};
unsigned long midiRateLimitThreshold = 35;
unsigned long midiRateLimitThresholdOctave = 70;
byte midiVelocity = 127;

void setup() {
calibrateAmbientLight();
midiInitSerial();
midiInitPins();
midiIntroSong();
}

part 2 of 3 cont:

void loop() {
midiReadLasers();
midiReadVelocity();
}

void calibrateAmbientLight() {
delay(100);
midiCalibrateAmbientLight = analogRead(midiPinVelocity);
}

void midiIntroSong() {
delay(1);
midiSendNoteOn(60, 127);
delay(125);
midiSendNoteOff(60);
midiSendNoteOn(64, 127);
delay(125);
midiSendNoteOff(64);
midiSendNoteOn(67, 127);
delay(125);
midiSendNoteOff(67);
midiSendNoteOn(72, 127);
delay(250);
midiSendNoteOff(72);
midiSendNoteOn(67, 127);
delay(125);
midiSendNoteOff(67);
midiSendNoteOn(72, 127);
delay(500);
midiSendNoteOff(72);
}

boolean midiHandleOctave(byte thePin, boolean theState) {
if (!theState) {return false;}
if ((thePin == MIDI_LASER_OCTAVE_DOWN) && midiOctave == 0) {return false;}
if ((thePin == MIDI_LASER_OCTAVE_UP) && midiOctave == 9) {return false;}
midiOctaveKill();
switch(thePin) {
case MIDI_LASER_OCTAVE_DOWN:
midiOctave--;
break;
case MIDI_LASER_OCTAVE_UP:
midiOctave++;
break;
}
return true;
}

boolean midiHandleRateLimit(byte thePin) {
unsigned long theMillis = millis();
unsigned long theThreshold = 0;
switch (thePin) {
case MIDI_LASER_OCTAVE_DOWN:
case MIDI_LASER_OCTAVE_UP:
theThreshold = midiRateLimitThresholdOctave;
break;
default:
theThreshold = midiRateLimitThreshold;
break;
}
if (theMillis - midiRateLimit[thePin] >= theThreshold) {
midiRateLimit[thePin] = theMillis;
return true;
}
return false;
}

part 3 of 3:

void midiHandleReadLaser(byte thePin, boolean theState) {
if ((midiLaserState[thePin] != theState) && midiHandleRateLimit(thePin)) {
midiLaserState[thePin] = theState;
if ((thePin == MIDI_LASER_OCTAVE_DOWN) || (thePin == MIDI_LASER_OCTAVE_UP)) {
midiHandleOctave(thePin, theState);
} else if (theState) {
midiSendNoteOn(midiNotes[thePin] + (12 *midiOctave), midiVelocity);
} else {
midiSendNoteOff(midiNotes[thePin] + (12 *midiOctave));
}
}
}

void midiInitPins() {
for (byte thePin = 0; thePin < MIDI_LASER_COUNT; thePin++) {
pinMode(midiPinLaser[thePin], INPUT);
}
}

void midiInitSerial() {
Serial.begin(31250);
}

void midiOctaveKill() {
for (byte thePin = 0; thePin < MIDI_LASER_COUNT; thePin++) {
if ((thePin == MIDI_LASER_OCTAVE_DOWN) || (thePin == MIDI_LASER_OCTAVE_UP)) {continue;}
midiHandleReadLaser(thePin, LOW);
}
}

void midiReadLasers() {
for (byte thePin = 0; thePin < MIDI_LASER_COUNT; thePin++) {
midiHandleReadLaser(thePin, digitalRead(midiPinLaser[thePin]));
}
}

void midiReadVelocity() {
midiVelocity = map(analogRead(midiPinVelocity), 0, midiCalibrateAmbientLight, 1, 127);
}

void midiSendCC(byte theCC, byte theValue) {
Serial.write(B10110000);
Serial.write(theCC);
Serial.write(theValue);
}

void midiSendNoteOff(byte theNote) {
Serial.write(B10000000);
Serial.write(theNote);
Serial.write(0);
delay(1);
}

void midiSendNoteOn(byte theNote, byte theVelocity) {
Serial.write(B10010000);
Serial.write(theNote);
Serial.write(theVelocity);
delay(1);
}

>>916971
>Toilet paper and glue
As your mold?

The human body has close to the density of water 1000kg/m^3. Concrete has a density of 2400kg/m^3.

The concrete will weigh 2.5 times your weight. Is your mold strong enough to support 375 lbs or more of liquid concrete?

>>916971
Do it in sections. Make each mold in sections, just parts of your body. Then cast each section separately. When done you can piece these concrete pieces together. You'll be able to fill in any cracks and such. After that you'll have something you can either use to make a full mold in one piece leave it as is and use that as your statue.

Doing it in sections will make it much more manageable. You'll also be able to figure out better methods as you go along.

>>916977
it would be pretty thick and partially buried in sand during the process
it's the easiest and most cheap option still

Never done a banjo, but have done a conga. If you can't find any more sources for banjos, trying looking up drum heads, should be similar.

http://remo.com/portal/products/3/11/92/sp_banjo.html

>>915603
knife for jacket and ptfe
junior hacksaw for shield
ruler for measure

>deburr
wow these guys mean buisness
>lubing the assembly rather than the oring separate
never mind

>>915603
I just use a knife.

The careful application of acetone.