Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 704. page

>>919076
I would ditch the PSA and go for wood glue and a miter joint for the sides. Use wood filler or Spackle to fill in the rough edges and sand smooth. Depending on the roughness of the ply, you may want to fill and sand smooth the rest of the surfaces as well. Prime heavy, sand, paint, clear coat, admire.

What does a shittily made plywood box say as a gift?

>>919076
Op glue isn't gonna hold your "girlfriend" in the box for very long. She will eventually chew through the sides.
But if you really have to use glue and not screws, make finger joints and put it together.
Use a rasp to round out the sides and corners, a file to smooth it out a bit more and finally sandpaper.
Now the paint job depends of the finish you want. Do you want it to look like old varnished wood work? Or like a cheap Chinese plastic box?

>what is google, you lazy fuck.

..in saying that, never found the answer after 3 mins either, but, there's You Tube videos and all sorst of shit, somehting must b useful, maybe.

But apart from lack of exact orignal schematic, conisder following - would Russian Army zank drivers have headphones wired for stereo? Do you have the other corrosponding part of this 'weird 5 prong connector' to use the orignal wiring? Is there a mic attached already?

If the answers to all above are FUCK, NO! - then, take it apart (phones removable as washable), put in new cable, in stereo, add mic - you can see exactly what you are wiring where then.

Otherwise, prob be mono, and you need a Tank to plug them into, Comrade. May also be non-typical impedance etc. but, should work.

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>>918990
OP get ready for some dick sucking.

That connector is a variation on a standard DIN connector heavyduty-ed up for used by drunk Russians.

The tow most outter pins are your headphones these are not polarised to you can turn them every witch way you like
The two inner are your mic out same as headphones no matter how you flip it
The middle pin is your grounding cable. The Russians didn't want to have their drivers or gunners electrocuted to death

Bad news tho, if you came here from >>>/v/ go back to the world of tanks circle jerk thread.

These have watchcase speakers. witch are high impedance. Witch means if you plan to use them for gayming you need a powerful (and adjustable) preamp for the speaker and mic.
Tanks have this old school engineering thing much like tube amps that things are paired from the outside in

>>918990
Why doesn't your pic actually show the connector?

>>918975
Seems legit, but sculpy/femo/whatever its called in your part of the world might be be a better moulding material. Test both and see which shrinks the last. I guess play doh would be better because it would be easier to break away from the moulded button once the HDPE set if sticking is the concern.

You could also experiment with brushing talcum powder or flour inside the mould to prevent the plastic from sticking.

>>918978
Never thought about putting flour in the the mold, will try but suspect the flour will stick on the button, you think it could be washed off afterwards or just stay there forever?

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>>918979
I used talcum (finer grain than flour) as a release agent to resin cast pic related, some plugs for my ears. There is a very slight optical effect, but the plugs feel smooth to the touch. There wasn't a lot of talc suck to this when I pulled it and what was stuck on brushed off easily enough. Considering resin is runnier (reads, more easily conforms to fine details like grains of flour/talc) than HPDE I can't see you having any problems. Even if there is some fine surface detail you won't see it because the button isn't transparent.

I can't speak directly to flour, I only mentioned it in case you don't have talc on hand, but again, considering HDPE is kinda thick, I doubt it will be a problem. Just make sure you remove all excess talc/flour from the mould; Use a fine brush to spread it into the corners and brush out the excess then tap the mould on the table to make sure all but the finest layer remains. Should come up a treat!

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>>918881
>>>/wsr/

This is /diy/, not /dify/.

>>918771
Well depends on the tools and resources you have available.

The electronics are easy. 4(3 if your cheap) wire cable a stereo 3.5 mm jack (for most PCs or a 5mm if you use it for guitar amps or high end recording stuff)
And two decent 16ish ohm speakers (if you don't want to use a preamp). This sets the quality of the sound depending on how much dosh you want to burn.

The rest is just the casing. Now /mu/ would argue that this is a very important part. As here you will get sound leaking. Witch is a problem if you do some recording and you get bass and treble bleedout. This is pseudo science for me since I use a big ass 800W sound system for my music.
But from what I can gather you don't want any holes or gaps for your sound to "escape" form in your speaker casing. You could cast there like they did in WW2 shape some sheet metal to a shape you like and than fir the speakers in it or if you have a friend with a 3D printer you can be a baller.

Next up is the cushions for your ears. Well cut some sponge in to donut shapes and wrap it in ideally leather but use whatever you like. Use a stencil to get the cuts.

The bridge between the headphones may carry a cable that connects the left to the right one of you can do it old school and have the wire split to each headphone depends on what you are looking for.
The bridge in between them will then need to be built according to that decision. you cant make it with tin snips and a sheet of thin aluminium and shape it out with a hammer around a cheap ball (or if you have a spare anvil lying around use that)
Put that all together and you'll wish you spent 100$ and both a decent pair of Sennheisers

>>918771
I've made a couple of pair of headphones, but the quality isn't really that great, its barely passable, even 30$ store bought ones perform better than the ones i made. The problem is, its hard to obtain low impedance wiring and sensitive speakers

Get a tattoo of your condition on yo chest? Gonna be cheaper than this fools errand you want to attempt.

>>918677
not really into tattoos plus on blood thinners so 99% sure not even allow -doctor

>>918671
your best option is to cast it out of a superalloy, haynes or inconel. as for tungsten is mildly toxic.
but if you really want """"muhh hardest metal"""" you can machine it from a billet of tungsten alloy.
or the last option is to have a specialized company stamp it from tungsten carbide.

this is a bit foolish though as these options cost roughly 500-2500 euros.

Ask this in >>>/g/

>>918519
Ghetto as hell.
If you want to use extra flux on PCBs and insist on making it by yourself, make it from pine rosin (colophony rosin) and alcohol. At least it's less corrosive.

>>918522
>pine rosin (colophony rosin) and alcohol

This. Phosphoric acid in distilled water is also an option, but only if you can clean it off afterward.

>>918538
>Phosphoric acid and water
So coke zero or lemon kool-aid then?

>>918505
Pretty cool, even if I seen a lot of stuff like it. Are there any supporting materials? It's always a little frustrating when 80% of the video is simple fabrication--I know how to use a drill press and a tapwrench, but most arduino resources assume knowledge that I don't have.

I will need a formal request first.

>>918468
A raid card with enough cache to help your SSDs would be top tier $$$. Also try /g

why not raid10? or am I just stupid using the usual term?

>>918468
>Mandatory UPS
you can get cards with a battery on the card that saves the cache over downtime

what the fuck are you doing that you want to cache data to an ssd? some enterprise tier shit there anon.

>>918395
>feasibility
Define that word for us please.

>>918395
are you sriously telling me you want a program that simulates tensile/compressive loads on a CAD drawing? Get off your ass and find a structural engineer.

You can try Ansys or Solidworks. I think they're focused on metals, but you can try using properties for concrete, idk. I'm assuming you want to know whether it will break or not, but if you just want to know if it's a good investment, use Excel.

If it's just meant to be a shower or desk set of speakers, you don't need to get this in depth into building the enclosure. You're not going to notice a difference in sound from a set of small speakers while you're taking a shower. If you're trying to build some kind of massive PA or hi-fi setup, then you should bother with perfecting your enclosure design, but in the application you mentioned, it simply doesn't matter.

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>>918271

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>>918150
>Theoretically 12 layers of this stuff could power your house.

>capacitors
>power your house

I don't think you know what a capacitor is or what it does.

>>918162
a typical capacitor is rated in microfarads typically and you'd be right, they hold very little power. Super capacitors are more like a battery. Except they have significantly higher energy density and can charge in seconds. Copper sulfide has a capacitance in it's natural form of 200 farads per square cm. so at 12 layers that are 8.5x11 would have a capacitance of about a million farads. That's plenty to power your house for a while.

>>918150
Fascinating anon. Do you have a newsletter I can subscribe to to learn more?

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>>918003
buy an S hook at the hardware store

>>918010

Perfect idea I'll look for some needle nose pliers and bend a paper clip into an S hook like from the hardware store

Thanks!

>>918010
>>918011

But what if I can't find the needle nose pliers?