Hi guys, I'd like to make my own frameless laser harp, but I'm kinda stuck on some technical aspects.
Here's how it works:
A laser is sent over a mirror, creating a "string", then it is turned off, the mirror turns a little bit (thanks to a motor), and turned on again, to make the second string, and so on...
Not gonna explain the reception part here, because it's not related to my problem.
After some researches on internet, I found that I could use a <100mW green laser pointer to get a cool effect, but I really don't know what kind of motor I should use, in order to get at least 7 "persistent" strings. Servomotor ? Galvanometer ?
Is there anyone here who had fun with lasers, vision persistence, or anything related who can help me out ?
Easiest would be a stepper motor or a regular DC motor with an encoder.
>>965417
>Servomotor ? Galvanometer ?
consider a multifaced mirror that continuously rotates. this is how scale barcode scanners operate.
a brushless motor will be practically silent if that is important
out of your two suggestions a galvanometer would probably be better because less mass, friction and momentum than a servo.
>>965420
If it continuously rotate, getting the feels that the string is there (and not blinking to much), and beeing able to know what string is beeing "displayed" at any time (Mandatory in order to know what note is beeing played) seems pretty hard, no ?
The galvanometer is also more expensive, isn't it ?
What do you figure the easiest way to remove a tattoo at home?
I tried using a tattoo gun to tattoo skin color pigment over it. That didn't work nearly at all, out 150$
I also tried burning a part off with a hot knife I left my torch on for about a minute or two and that left a pretty thick scar but it worked. That hurt even drunk though
Any other suggestions? What about TCA solution? Or an acid?
The tattoo on removing is all black. Not really concerned about pain just nerve damage or something I would have to go to the hospital for. Obviously I would keep the wound clean
you'll need another set of hands but an angle grinder will do the trick
the pain will be a constant reminder to not get stupid tattoos
>>962086
>I am the lambda and the omega.
Belt sander?
can anyone recommend me of any DYI humane mousetrap?, anything that is small or that contains bottles will do, would be very appreciated!
*DIY, by the way, i am not gonna toss them in the back yard later on for them to come back incase you are wondering, I will euthanize them using vinegar and baking soda and throw them in the toilet after i make sure they are dead, most of the diy bottle traps i tried didn't work, so i thought maybe a few guys here have a smart idea
>>965311
these are the tits: http://www.amazon.com/Mice-Cube-Pk-Reusable-Humane/dp/B000WB13QC
though I don't see the point in being humane if you're going to kill them anyway.....I guess one could attach a hose to an exhaust pipe and give them CO poisoning
Mattias Wandel has a nice video on mousetraps.
I know I'm likely asking the impossible but can we have a multi-tool general thread w/o the bickering?
I'll start off by saying I know very little about tools but do want to learn more about them. One thing I do know is that multi-tools are NOT a replacement for dedicated tools but are meant to be used for less intensive jobs that may not require the dedicated tool.
On the lower-priced side I've seen multi-tools from Jeep, CRKT and other companies while Victorinox and Leatherman seem to make the tools most people regard as premium in both price and quality. Are there any multi-tools that break the rules and offer good quality at a low price?
I'd love to know what multi-tools you have/why you use them/what you specifically use them for.
>>963312
I personally have a leatherman new wave, although i am not a particular multitool guy. Bought this one because it was recommended as, and probably is, the best value for money quality general purpose multitool on the market.
I am however an advocate of quality tools, you pay maybe 4 times the price of a cheap tool, but it'll last you 4 times as long whilst giving you the extra advantages of quality tools such as a nice sharp blade that holds its edge etc.
I've had it now for maybe 5 years and use it for all kinds of tasks mostly around the house and on vacation. Just some examples are cutting tywraps, tightening bolts on the folding tent, opening boxes, cutting electrical wire (i am an electrical engineer).
Most used are knife and pliers, followed by the serated knife, file and saw. I hate scissors on multitools so i only use those when really in a pinch but most tasks for those scissors are better done with the blade.
But as you can see the positioning of the tools in the leatherman is pretty well thought out, most used tools are easily accessed.
>>963312
never buy any tool a car company slapped their name onto....
Leatherman; even a basic model will last forever properly used and cared for
you get what you pay for...that doesn't mean you have to go spend $80-$100, but don't go for the cheapest one and expect wonders
(have an older model from before they started making them with the thinner style....it only has a few things in it, but I like it that way....it's very slim and light while still feels heftier that new models like the sidekick)
>>963323
>>963335
What you said seems like good advice. It also seems like you both really like your Leatherman products.Disregarding prices do you know if other companies ( excluding Gerber and VIctorinox given they do ) make products that can compete?
I know CRKT has a few multi-tools that range from $20-$50 ( pic related; I find the odd shape of the tool interesting ( I didn't forget you said you get what you pay for and I'm only bringing up CRKT because they have a decent reputation ) that are supposed to be decent and it seems SOG makes some multi-tools as well.
I live in a small house, about the size of a studio apartment, that I built myself.
It's really cozy but I'd like to make it slightly bigger by adding a second story.
The problem is that I can't move out while doing this and seeing as I will be doing it in my spare time it may take a few weeks.
So how do I do it without having to move out completely?
Can I just rip up enough of the roof to build my walls and new roof? Then finish the inside later?
Thanks for any comments, sarcastic or not.
>pic isn't mine but slightly smaller
Then finish the inside later
this is typically how things are built anyway. you complete and weather tight the 'shell' then work on the interior.
>>966854
Yea I get that but in order to add the second story the roof will have to come off. I can't do all of that in just a few days as I will be by myself so there will be a stretch of time that it is unlivable. I'm trying to avoid that.
Sorry I wasn't clear about that.
>>966851
> Builds tiny house
> Finds it's too tiny
> Wants to jack up he roof and install second floor in a weekend
Why didn't you listen?
This is an outlet used to charge my electric car. When I bought the car, I replaced the 15A outlet with this 20A GFCI to hopefully resist the heat a little better. Now this one is starting to discolour.
Does anybody have a suggestion for an outlet that would hold up to the heat a little better. The charger only draws 12A max, but up to 11 hours in worst case scenario. The house is 2006.
>>964933
it looks like it's discoloring because it's dirty and causing arcing
also changing the 15amp outlet to a 20amp one was fucking stupid assuming the line wasn't ran for that
>>964936
It's not dirty. It's definitely discoloured from heat. The outlet is only 4 months old.
I don't have anything 20A to plug into it anyway, I just hoped it would handle the heat better. I've never actually seen anything with a 20A plug on it. Does anybody use that?
>>964945
>It's not dirty. It's definitely discoloured from heat.
I can see black build up in both outlets.
In any case, run a new dedicated 20 amp line in your garage
Alright i have been working for a cigar store and my old tip jar just broke. So i want to make a new one.
Any ideas how to make a Tip Jar that would attract customers?
a big silicon onahole butt.
So you can do pic related.
>>966402
If you are not attractive enough to attract customers, no tip jar will attract customers for you, the problem is you, remove yourself to solve the problem
>>966410
>implying
I have one bottle of Sulphuric Ether made in 11/1993, with expiry date in 11/1996. Should I keep it?
It keeps exhaling strange-smelling gases. What can I do with it?
https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Sulphuric_ether
>>963170
No idea if it's good after that time, but for disposal contact your local council. Most municipalities have free for small volume chemical collection points, if they don't, check with a pharmacy and see if they have some protips.
>>963181
Thanks!
>>963170
It is normal that ether bottles smell slightly. The main hazards with ether are flammability (much more flammable than gasoline) and that it slowly forms explosive compounds when exposed to air (including air inside the bottle).
Nowadays its main use is as solvent. Too bad it evaporates very quickly. Apparently you can use it to start some old diesel engines in cold, too.
I don't really see why you would want to keep it.
Hi /diy/!
I'v build my own homegym and I'm missing a Plate Holder (pic related)
do you have any idea on how to build my own Plate holder?
I don't realy have the money to buy one
If you have an Okay welder,could just use scrap re-bar and weld it all up
>>963743
I found this pretty decent design that should be quite easy to remake wig some rough estimate sizes and box steel.
>>963743
show gym
Questions that don't deserve their own thread. Previous one is over 300.
I'm adding organization to the kitchen! Managed to squeeze three IKEA garbage sliders under the sink, but I redid the drains to fit them.
Any plumbers want to chew me out and tell me if I dun goofed? I'm in Ontario.
>>959165
Other view
I'm not a plumber but I don't see anything horribly wrong
>>959165
No garbage disposal?
So I've gone and ordered one of these (image related) to connect to my impact and drill box to keep all my bits organised.
So how many people have used these not this particular model but the series in general.
Are they worth the extra money sure they seem tough and well built but apart from keeping my bits with my tools I don't know if I can justify the other ones
The only other reason I could see them being useful was if I rigged up something to hold them to the floor of my van it would be easy to get them in and out and locked in to stop rolling all around
I just use a home depot bucket bag
Does anybody have these? I want some too but the price makes me want to find someone who owns them
hey /diy/ , i found an amazing 87 japan made guitar , it costs 160 $ , which in my country is a months worth of wage for a student like me . its pretty beat up , needs a full paintjob . i have not done this before . i have little to no knowledge on this subject .
>what primer to use
>what paint to use
>which sanders
>which gloss paint to use
>what tools will i need
All tips appretiated
Just don't! It is a he'll lot of work and I really like the look and feel of an old guitar.
>>965735
Idk man if the thing plays fine I say leave its rugged and aged look alone
So I'm currently in Europe on a deployment and we brought one of these things with us, it's a B60. Someone plugged it into the wall in our office and I think it blew a fuse or shorted something inside the Keurig. I've soldered something maybe once or twice in my life (I'm a network and communications guy, component level electronics is not really my specialty)
Firstly, am I on the right track as to this thing getting fucked up because it wasn't plugged into a transformer in line with the wall? And secondly, how would I go about finding and replacing the fuse? I began unscrewing the bottom of the thing but I couldn't get very far, it seemed like they didn't want you getting very deep in there on your own.
Thanks in advance for any help!
I assume that thing was built for 120v / 60Hz?
Check near the cable.
Post pics if unsure.
I'm fairly certain it is. I'm not at the office right now but I'd say I'm 99% sure that's why it isn't working now.
you have to drill holes in the B60 to undo some plastic clips
http://www.singleservecoffeeforums.com/dissassembly-repair-guide-keurig-b70-platinum-t8124-150.html?sid=d6f42db5e5b1f7d0be603f10eb725c65#p92884
Can we have a gore thread?
>>955192
how is it still standing
>>955192
>brazil
>an actual brick wall
>not a tin shack
>everything went better than expected
>>955196
They think mortar is like super glue
See the bricks on the top of the openings? Normally you'd use an U-shaped block, pass a rebar through them and pour concrete into them. This works, but as you can see the only thing holding the bricks in place is mortar.
I hope somebody here can help me. The belt in my washing machine fell off. It's 4 years old and I figured it was just stretched too much so I ordered a new one online and tried to put it on, flew off again.
Now I saw the real problem was the bearing wich contains the flywheel is sliding outward. I hammered it in and started a washing cycle but after a while it came out again.
I had grinded open the back to easily access the motor/flywheel connection but now I'm afraid that the back might have kept the bearing/flywheel in place.
Can I solve this by removing the bolt, pull out the bearing and inserting a new one or is this useless???
I really don't feel like dismantling the entire machine right now, too much stuff going on and I read online that if you dismantle and don't re-assemble properly your machine is fucked.
pic related.
>>965264
jesus fucking christ, a washing machine is not a can of beans - you don't cut the bottom out with tin snips to work on it.
>>965264
also there's usually a repair manual in a plastic bag taped to the inside of the enclosure