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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 521. page

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How do I have a heavy as fuck massive mirror from my ceiling?
26 posts and 5 images submitted.
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>>1002983
English motherfucker do you speak it.
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>>1002983

this shit right here.
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>>1002988
/bread

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What is this? It's connected to a coaxial cable. I found it in the box outside. There don't appear to be center pins in the sleeve thing and the end with the thread. I was thinking it was a spacer to turn off the cable but the end bit that's threaded makes no sense. Anyone know what this is.
22 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>1002898
Key logger, your bank details are stolen
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>>1002910
Shit I better call the inter galactic police. Thanks for the quick answer.
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>>1002898
Hard to say, but my first guess would be an RF filter.

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I want to build the 1989 batmobile so that it's a street legal car but I want it to be electric ideally instead of fueled. How should I go about doing this.
17 posts and 4 images submitted.
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Step 1: Watch as your parents are murdered before you in a botched mugging
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>>1002288
Step 2: Inherit billions from them.
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>>1002288
Step 3: Get a butler.

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Hey /diy/ I'm currently in the process of building a hobby workshop.

Picture related is the draw-in roller of my Scheppach HM 1
It was surrounded with tape and is still quite soft to the touch.

Is this still acceptable or should I completely replace it?
7 posts and 1 images submitted.
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What are woodworking forums and why would anyone post woodworking questions to /diy/?

You may get answers, but 4chan is not the best source.
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>>1002791
Yes, let us assume OP is retarded and hasn't considered those options.
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Yeah, looks like a pretty decent dildo.

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Hello /diy/.

Can anyone recommend me a non destructive way to clean surface rust of items? I have some archaeological finds I want to clean. The only thing I want to do is clean off some of the rust while preserving patina and remaining traces of wood.

I looked at some detectorist sites and the methodes seem shit.

>Wire brush and wd40
>Sand blast it!
>Soak it in Acid.

Doubt that' a good idea. Pic somewhat related.

Thanks
29 posts and 9 images submitted.
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I don't think you understand what a patina is. But anyway if the items are valuable don't do anything except maybe clean off the dirt. If they're tools soak in white vinegar or rust off. Probably just do the former if they're "archaeological" and have some significance as it sounds like you're going to fuck them up as you still have to have some preservation plan after you clean them.
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If you're just cleaning off some old arrowheads you dug out of a field because you want them to look nicer in a shadow box in your den they make non-acid rust removers intended for restoration of rusty old vintage shit. One example:

http://www.workshophero.com/de-rust-antiques.aspx

If they're more rust than iron you don't clean them at all.

Some light reading on the subject:

http://digitalcommons.buffalostate.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1345&context=neha
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>I have some archaeological finds I want to clean

Are you a complete idiot?

DO NOT CLEAN THEM.

you you must do anything use a soft toothbrush to remove loose soil, etc.

DO NOT REMOVE CORROSION

doing so you are eliminating all archaeological data. You are making the objects worthless.

Again, do NOT "Clean" them. For the love of god.

Also photos of the objects.

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Hey, /diy/..
Is it possible to make your own homemade printer ink somehow?
13 posts and 1 images submitted.
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And yes, I know the pic is of a LaserJet printer, my mistake >>1001003
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>>1001003
you can get a huge bottle of ink for like $10

I've refilled mine tons of times and I still have a lot left

I got a printer at a rummage sale for $2 and the black ink still worked
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>>1001003
It might be possible to farm octopii and/or squid and harvest their ink. Please try it and report back.

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How could I create a cheap metal wood stove + chimney using only hand tools?

I was thinking of buying an ammo box and starting from there, but I was wondering what /diy/ though.
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>>1000955
Unless you have a crank operated welding station that's impossible. Ammo box will get red hot, fume all the paint off, and will rust after a couple of weeks. That's one of the most stupid things I've heard.

The ideal thing to start with would be a thick gas tank, but it would still require some welding unless you want to die of carbon monoxide poisoning. It is also recommended to powder coat it to prevent rust and so it doesn't looks like you've stolen it from some inbreed gypsy's camp lost in some rural area of Romania, but if you can't afford a stove I don't see how you can afford that.

Either way, have you even used google?
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55 gallon steel drum - one lid attached, one spare lid. I could build a stove out of these with hand tools.
So you get the drum, preferably one that hasn't housed anything too volatile and preferably with the paint coming off. You have four problems.
1) You want to light a fire in it outside to cook the paint and anything trapped in the pores of the steel off. We'll get back to this later though...
2) The drum will be oriented length-wise above the ground - it needs legs. Source some kind of metal stand.
3) The front opening - to feed in wood. You need to make a rectangular opening through the lid. Opening should be elevated relative to the bottom of the drum in its operating position.Since, you know, hot coals and burning material will be at the bottom. Don't want that shit falling out the front. We can't weld on hinges, we need a way to securely attach this 'hatch'. This is where the second lid comes in. The two vertical edges, and bottom horizontal edge of the opening you created on the original drum lid need to be rolled outward to create a lip. Likewise, from the second lid, a sheet slightly bigger than the opening should be cut. In a similar fashion, the two (soon to be) vertical edges of the sheet forming the hatch should be rolled in. Thus you create lips in the metal that ride on each other. The bottom lip on the original dram lid is to keep the hatch from sliding down passed the opening - it holds it up. A top lip on the hatch can also be created as a means to conveniently pull the hatch up.
4) We need an opening for stove pipe. Since you now understand the drum will be laying down though, let's go back to #1. Punch a small hole where the stove pipe will be in the top of the drum (in operating position). This is for air flow. Now you can light a fire in it and cook off all the bad stuff.
Anyway, You'll need either actual stove pipe or some kind of metal to make it.... But for the hole, you bend metal out in all direction from the hole to keep the pipe on
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woodfag here.

Could op do it with sheet metal, tin snips and rivets?

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I was thinking about how springs can be used to fly, and I realised that a bunch of cups on a spring would squeeze air out in such a way as to create thrust as a compression wave travelled through the spring, and those waves could in turn be created with sound.

I'd try and simulate this but I have no software to do that, so does /diy/ think it'd work?
And would there be a better way than a one-way valve of getting the cups to not suck themselves backwards when refilling with air?
Since the idea of this is to make a strange yet easily built aircraft, and one-way valves would be impractical to get in such quantity probably...
34 posts and 7 images submitted.
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>I was thinking about how springs can be used to fly

Wat
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Alternatively, it might be able to fly by wiggling if it used troughs instead of cups, but for that the airflow is more confusing so I'd definitely need a simulator that I don't have.
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I don't follow. Are we talking about a tension spring here, pulling the cups together?

I don't think your sound idea is very workable.

Peachy Printer Edition

Old thread >>980845

>open source community
http://reprap.org/
http://forums.reprap.org/

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any number of Reprap kits out there

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index

>what kind of filament do I want
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Wb0i0-Qvo [Embed]
>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.openscad.org/
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
https://www.tinkercad.com/
http://www.123dapp.com/

>where to buy genuine hotends
http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-hotends (USA E3D reseller)
http://e3d-online.com/ (E3Ds regular site, yuro based)
http://hotends.com/ (genuine J-Head seller)
https://www.printedsolid.com/shop/printer-parts/hexagon/ (hexagon)
https://www.b3innovations.com/ (pico)
http://www.dta-labs.com/products/prometheus-v2 (prometheus)
https://www.lulzbot.com/catalog/budaschnozzle-20 (budaschnozzle)

>where to buy filament
http://pushplastic.com/
http://www.jet-filament.com/
http://www.makergeeks.com/
http://www.reprap.cc/
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>>996960
Oh, you were faster. That guy looks like having mild down syndrome in that pic.

I broke the other surface mount LED from my heatbed pcb. Is it ok to replace it with any LED?
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>>996966
He always looked like if he had some kind of retardation or deformity.
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>>996960
why would anyone support peachy printer after those fuckwads embezzled all the kickstarter money

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Hey /diy/ what is useful knowledge for working in a hardware store?

my local home hardware has a sales assistant position open and I'm hoping to get it so I can pay the bills, but I don't know shit about tools (no dad around to teach me). I googled training videos, but there wasn't much on offer.
6 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1003074
>but I don't know shit about tools
Not a problem, I've never met a hardware store employee that knew shit about anything they sold.
Most of your job will probably be knowing what shit is in which aisle.
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>>1003079
So there's nothing I can do to increase my likelihood of getting the job? I'd like to know at least a little, jobs are hotly contested in this small town and I want to be a convincing candidate
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>>1003082
It's a sales job, not an apprenticeship mate, just read through some catalogues or something so you at least know an angle grinder from a hatchet.

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I have one of those undersink slide out trash bins, but you have to lift the lid yourself which is annoying.

I'd like to make some sort of rope and pulley contraption, so that when you try to slide it out, it will automatically lift the lid slightly, and then lower it back down when you slide it back in.

I thought about it and it seems like basically my problem hinges on constructing a device that has the following characteristics (refer to pic 1):

R is a weight representing the lid. Q is the device. P is the pulley that will be routed around and tied to the base of trash can.

When the rope is pulled in given direction, both Q and R will be pulled up at first (plot showing hQ and hR). It doesn't matter if R is pulled in direct proportion to Q, hence the several dashed curves, any of which would be acceptable.

After a preset threshold is met, however, Q continues going up but R remains in place.

When the rope through P is slackened back in, the events play out in reverse: First only Q is lowered without lowering R, but when threshold is reached (ie. the trash bin has almost completely slid back in) R starts lowering as well.
10 posts and 3 images submitted.
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Just to make it clearer, second pic is an example imperfect solution: The threshold is set by putting some barrier in the path of R. After R is snagged on this barrier, it cannot move any more, so further attempts to pull along T1 results in the spring being extended.

The problem with this is that towards the end there will be quite a bit of force stored up in the spring, so the trash can will not slide out easily and snap back when released.

Any ideas?
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>>1002859
open the cupboard fully
lift the lid
attach rope to lid
attach other end to inside cupboard

thats it.
that is all there is to it.
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>>1002863
I want it to be opened when the trash bin is slid out, not when the door is opened.

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I was wondering how do this Chinese people make this toys?

I mean, how do they put this "fire fire! Gdtyjfd! Fire fire! " sounds in this crap?

This literally cost $1

Is there any specific "magic" components inside this garbage?

I'm a mechatronics engineering students trying to make some cool projects and stuff

I've already done some projects with micro/SD cards and audio file readers, they are not difficult, but they are not easier as I imagine this toy components are (maybe I'm wrong)

Anyone knows how this magic works and how I can use it or make my own?

Thanks anons

Sorry for bad English
14 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1002807
>Gdtyjfd
what?
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>>1002807
The 'magic component' is what we refer to as the 'black dot'. It's basically a micro circuit with a tiny, special purpose chip that can be loaded with very short, low quality audio recordings. The whole circuit costs pennies to buy, program, and mount, then the whole circuit is covered with a single drop of black epoxy.

You can recreate the circuit if you design it yourself, but you will never be able to produce it as cheaply as they can because they are buying bottom of the line components, using the absolute minimum amount of components needed, then using Chinese labor to assemble it. Seriously, these guys can afford a 30% failure rate or more and still make a profit on it.

If you're interested in designing a 1 chip solution like this yourself, start with something like digikey part number ISD1610BSY-ND, which goes for less than $4/chip.
>>
Thanks anons

Hello /diy/

I just bought my first drill, only cost me $99 due to major clearance sale and i would like to know how /diy/ manages these batteries. The manual says to keep them charged but with Lithium Polymer this would damage them, This drill uses Lion so kinda stumped on how to handle them.

pic related
17 posts and 2 images submitted.
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Lithium Ion likes being topped off.
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>>1002738
I don't understand "topped off"

All lithium Ion batteries including mobile phones like being charged unlike Polymer?
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I charge my Milwaukee batteries when the red light indicator has one light left, and I take them off the charger when the charger light turns green. I never run them all the way down.

Has anybody used these things before? Any favorite brands? I've been thinking of picking up a pair, but I don't want to blow $150 on something worse than a regular $20 pair.
Also PPE general, I guess
10 posts and 5 images submitted.
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>>1002547
Whoa. Normally cheap, non electronic ones are mostly hollow with some foam, so I stuff them with cheap bluetooth and speakers and use the foam to coat it.

it's your time and effort, versus spend some spare bucks. if i wasn't broke I wouldn't do shit with trash I found lying around.

But I guess someone who
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>>1002565
...who comes to /diy/ wants to hear about it, so there's that.

I've found the right part of a chinese bluetooth headset trashed, the left is from a philips one and the arc is from an ear muffler, the ear pads and speakers were salvaged too.

I've spent about two hours cutting, soldering and testing, I've stuffed deceased cellphone batteries behind the speaker in the Philips cup, there's a thin wire for the sound and power I had to drill the arc but mostly is pretty solid and comfy for pure trash.

this is an earlier version with a flimsier arc, it broke so I remade it with the thicker ear muffler.
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And of course, I've said I found it in the trash, right? It was burnt. I've had to remake the cap too.

For some reason the bottom part of a plastic cup fit perfectly.

I think I'll call this the "hoboset".

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Stringing a guitar (its a pita)
27 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>1002379
Stringing a guitar is easy as fuck
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>>1002379
This is a right handed guitar with a reverse headstock. Those are hipsot open back locking tuners that are staggered. The top two don't have enough space to fit the string through the hole. Is this done correctly?
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>>1002380
I understand how to string it. The issue is that I can't fit the strings in. They are .10 to .60. That 6th peg won't fit a .46.

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