Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 468. page

>>1024297
Step 1: waste a shitload of wood

>>1024297
Tricky. It's like an efficient method riddle. Obviously, you could glue up, drill the inside corners, and hack at it with a ryoba. I doubt that's how he did it.

>>1024297
Make a bunch of wide-ish right angles, and a bunch of also wide-ish straight pieces cut at 45 degrees at each end so they fit together at right angles. Cut the curves out of them so you've got like twenty pieces that go from corner-to-corner, and twenty pieces that go from midpoint-of-side-to-midpoint-of-side. Then stack on top of each other layers of alternating corner pieces and side pieces with wood glue between each layer. Clamp with like eight clamps and leave for 24 hours. chisel off excess glue and sand.

Nope. No problem at all. I'm an expert in the industry...

>>1024271
If I were you I'd go to the hardware store and get some insulation just to wrap around the tubes for good measure. Should be fine in the winter tho, copper is quite maluable compared to steel and other metals

hmm thanks for the replies, I might pick some up in the future unless I forget, good to know it'll probably be fine in winter any way though

>>1024018
Instill discipline into your child, front leaning rest position move

I'm sure if you really wanted, you could just slather the thing with epoxy.

>>1024018
>My son threw a rock that broke the this glass but I like the way it looks and I'm too cheap to replace it.
It is safety-tempered glass, and it's supposed to do that.
(It is supposed to completely shatter into tiny dull pieces, if it is cracked anywhere at all)

The problem with using most kinds of adhesive plastic film is that the adhesive and the plastic change when exposed to UV light--the adhesive either hardens or gets less sticky, and the plastic film tends to go opaque (it doesn't stay clear). It may not be saveable.

What you could do is go to a glass shop and show this picture to them and ask if they can get any glass that looks like this.

You might have to build the window yourself, you can make it double-pane easily but there would be little sense in making it triple-pane since it wouldn't be nitrogen sealed anyway. ...So it wouldn't insulate and stay clear in winter like a 'real' triple-pane window, but it would still be better than a single pane.

>>1023941
>no hope
>no disappointment
I feel great

been (at least) one more, if the 4chan deadlines weren't non-obv. AUS time, or made up as they went along. Was also certain, evetnual winner would be least related to actual /diy/ memes as well, no fucker on here can actually vote, far as I can tell/guess.

Congrats to the winner anyway - take your hard-won pass and kys ;)

>>1023941
>Some people actually tried
lmao

>>1023840
>I'm now locked in baby. Did I dun goof for not going with another brand, or did I do well?
We legit don't care. Take your tool wars thread to /b/ or something.

Do the tools perform the tasks you require of them? Then they're fine.

>>1023840
I got a cheap drill at harbor freight. Chicago or Milwaukee or some shit. I rarely use it, so it's fine for me. All the carpenters I see always have fucking dewalt everything. I imagine that shit is designed to last a long time being used every fucking day. I doubt u can go wrong with it OP.

thinking*

>>1023315
It will work, but be warned, that motor has no clutch and it's at the very least 2 times as powerful as what the chop saw originally came with, so if it binds, the disc may come apart

>>1023317
The saw comes with no motor, but the manufacturer recommends high rpm and high hp.

Do you have any water frontage?

The easiest fdirst stp is to reduce your need for electricity.
As price goes up with (peak) wattage you can lower costs by lowering the wattage.
Try that first...

And for boilers, maybe invest in some other form of heating? Firewood? Oil? Gas? That can needs electricity just for running hte equipment, noit heating.

>>1022509
Unfortunately not, but I live in a windy suburb.
>>1022518
Already reduced as much as I can, short of getting LED lights, Planning on getting gas soon, and I shut off the distributor switch to the boiler when it's not in use

File: 13695892_575516082626970_2090091174_n.jpg (34KB, 468x800px) Image search: [Google]

34KB, 468x800px

Just going to post a few pictures. Any advice or ideas or things I should have done differently?
Anything would help.

File: 13682335_575095942668984_229005371_o.jpg (108KB, 1080x864px) Image search: [Google]

108KB, 1080x864px

The bottom of the legs are going to have two swivel and two non-swivel wheels on them.

>>1022011
>Knife making for beginners
>so DIY, I am thinking of buying some metal and grip material to make a knife at home, I don't have a belt grinder and I don't really want to buy one. any tips? I'm using this article for help and a few vids http://www.instructables.com/id/Fixed-Blade-Knife/

As a beginning don't blow all your wedge on a KMG, awesome as they may be.

You can use an angle grinder or a bastard cut and a couple other files for your first.

See if you like working with metal first! No matter how good you get there will always be filework to do. If you don't like the feel and screech of metal on metal then it'll be a passing phase.

You can buy cheap 1" belt grinders, with a disc on the side which is surprisingly useful for truing up, as a 1" has so little contact area. This will suffice for your first few.

If after you've stock removed and handled a few, then it will be worth looking into all the specialty tools and jigs.

Please be aware in 99% of cases this will be a satisfying hobby, not any sort of reliable income source. I know stock removal guys that do a beautiful job, but they can't shift the finished product for more than parts, let alone labor the majority of the time.

File: dont be soft.png (140KB, 299x655px) Image search: [Google]

140KB, 299x655px

>>1022011
Might talk a bit about materials.
As a hobbyist you tend to have high expectations, but as >>1022041 mentions, this is a high-ish cost and not really something you can easily make a quid on.
I've made knives on-off for many years and most of my stuff just ends up presents for friends and relatives, if you manage to sell something for more than materials and hours, good on you!

>Blade steels
You can look at starting out which aren't very expensive are the O1 tool steel and the 10## steels which can all be home heat treated with just your mini-forge and a kitchen oven, though for the latter I recommend you get a more accurate thermometer for the oven. When you're in doubt about the metal- its time to hit the books and see what others have used, but generally always follow the manufacturers guides to heat treating and you can't really go wrong. Likewise, when you do go wrong- its going to hurt fucking up a blade, but at least with the cheaper carbon and tool steels they aren't going to blow your budget and put you in the dog house.
>Stainless blade steels
Are generally beyond the home hobbyist with the heat treating requiring long, high temperature Tempering and often a cryogenic cycle as well- if you can afford a kiln or know someone with one you can borrow, you could look at something like 440C- but its all in the heat treat and very easy to fuck it up.
>Shit I found
Old saw blades, car springs etc are fine for one-off blades that are very low cost, but its not like a lump of annealed 10## or O1 is expensive either. Big problem is that you:
>A- don't often know exactly what it is
>B- dunno what it is, how to heat treat?
>C- will need to be annealed, but how to heat treat?
>D- very difficult to repeat the result
If you can figure out what it is, then you're going to be ok... after its annealed, or it'll beat up your tools and wear you out.

File: FeralKid-RoadWarriorb.gif (2MB, 413x261px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 413x261px

>>1022083
>Handles
Ideally you want a handle to fulfil 2 functions-
1. Be comfortable to use
2. Protect the user from the blade
So spend a bit of time nutting something out which has form and function within your skillset and ability to manufacture. This means scribbling down pictures, I spend a lot of time here making sketches of 'how' the blade and handle will merge together, because it is important, if it wasn't important- then just spend $50-100 on some mass manufactured piece of shit. As a hobbyist, don't be afraid to push boundaries either, lets face it- you're not here the money so make something artistic which has beauty and love of the craft.

>Bolster and Guard materials
Starting out, use some of the softer materials, brass, copper and bronze are ideal as they're easy to work and attractive. However, they're not cheap and will suffer from some corrosion-
Bronze/gunmetal in particular is often very hard to find in bar sections, when it is, its damn expensive.
Copper is the cheaper out of the 3, but will rapidly corrode and require constant maintenance
Brass is a personal fav, its easy to work- reasonably priced, comes in a variety of bar and plate shapes and sizes, slow to corrode and will polish up like gold.

304 and 316 Stainless are excellent materials for guards, they're rough, tough and take no shit. They also polish up like a mirror and being austenite steels they have their full corrosion resistance as-is, they do not harden and can't be used for blades, the colour of 304 is also very good for matching with many types of blade steels.
Oh boy they're gunna beat you up and take hours to work- but its worth it because they're pretty and durable.

>cont

File: 13663508_10210093016352533_1848331454_o.jpg (94KB, 1184x666px) Image search: [Google]

94KB, 1184x666px

Insides I

File: 13682516_10210093016392534_396455281_o.jpg (87KB, 666x1184px) Image search: [Google]

87KB, 666x1184px

Insides II

Does it get power? As in, are the components on the PCB really powered?
If yes, check your soldering next. In desperation you might want to add some flux and re-heat all the joints.

>>1021369
Oh, correction. I said "baking powder" in my previous post. I meant baking soda. The distinction is quite important.

First off, you could just order a cheap drive, give it a go, and see if it works afterwards.
Alternately, use a larger wooden block (which gives you more surface area for the pattern anyway) with a larger void, insert the drive into the middle, fill the rest of the void with electronics potting compound.

>>1021369
You should make it something modular so that you're not stuck with a pretty paperweight if/when the flash drive inside dies/becomes obsolete.

>>1020079
Bosch makes a decent coffee maker but Black and Decker's is cheaper.

We haven't had a coffee machine at my workplace for three fucking months because nobody can agree what brand to get.

Can't see how this would work. Seems like a battery pack would be inadequate to heat the water

>>1017914
Seek professional help.

>>1017916
I can easily wire microphones myself I just can't get them powerful to pick up enough sound. I can't pay someone to do this for me and I have all the materials myself to seal them to the wall if I have to but I don't know how and that's why I came here so that someone could tell me how to record through the walls to the apartment next to me because my microphones aren't picking up sound.

Nothing like stalking your neighbors for fun and fapping.

The "small, thin" troll is a nice touch. I've no doubt she IS talking about the psycho next door. Kill yourself because crazy only gets worse.

Since weapons are not /diy/ I suggest /b/ instead.

>>1024747
Insulate it.
Bubble wrap come to mind.

>>1024754
That won't make the temperature higher when there's no heat source inside, dumbass

>>1024755
Then put a heat source inside.

Infrared QR codes.

>>1024487
since it's a book, pages will be stacked onto each other so I don't think it'll work, as I don't think an infrared QR code can be read through 10 other pages.

>>1024490
>>>1024487
>since it's a book, pages will be stacked onto each other so I don't think it'll work, as I don't think an infrared QR code can be read through 10 other pages.

But why would you want to detect the other pages when they're not being displayed?

An infrared QR code on every page would probably do what you want. Your system scans the code and projects the necessary page, turn a page and the next QR code is displayed and the loop starts again.