What's your favorite diy related youtube channels? Mine has to be colinfurze, I love watching him put shit together that works way better than I expected.
>>1051227
I was surprised that his thermite powered kettle didn't an hero.
>>1051228
The hoverbike surprised me the most, I mean it only hovers about 4 feet or so, but it stays up as long as he balances correctly, which is crazy!
>>1051227
Yeah love this guy - he's a yellowbelly too.
I'm restoring a 56 years old french motorbike.
Yesterday I cleaned this part and today it rained and those orange mark appeared.
How do I prevent them from appearing again?
That is called rust.
You prevent it by not allowing moisture to reach the bare metal. You can do so by either applying some sort of solid coating like a spray lacquer or by applying a liquid coating like an oil.
Oil is likely what you want in this application.
Gently sand with fine sandpaper till it's gone. Make sure it is very dry (put in oven at low temp if it's not) and spray with WD-40. That should keep rust from forming for years.
>>1051196
Kek
Hi, so I am new to power tools in general, never really owned any. But open to learning.
Now my main project with this thing is 80% 7075 aluminum AR lowers, using those specially made jigs and the hand drill/router method, along with some wood and wall things around the house.
But that isn't my main question, my main question is what sort of cordless drill should suffice for someone like me? Someone who probably won't be putting it through it's paces, but still need something that'll take the occasional abuse?
Been looking at Dewalt 20v brushless kit for $200 or just the regular Makita 18v hammer/drill for $100 from home depot.
So I guess my budget is $100-200.
>>1051122
Any corded or a couple hundreds in a cordless will be enough.
18v is enough, a lower voltage means that you need to put more money in buying it because only the top end low voltage ones are good.
And amp-hours matters. The voltage in a bigger battery will not sag as easily as in a small battery. You can tell the difference if you are using a 2Ah battery versus a 5.
>>1051126
ok, so either drill will be fine, just buy a bigger battery?
>>1051130
Probably. BUT
You have two rather different applications here. The miscellaneous things around the house is a good job for a cordless drill, but brushless Dewalt and 18V Makita are probably overkill for that. They would work for shop metalwork, but in a shop setting, the portability of cordless is less of an advantage relative to corded. You might consider whether getting two drills (a low-rpm corded for the shop and maybe a smaller 12V drill for around the house) would work better for you.
Noob here.
I have a train ticket and I am trying to create a protective baggy for it. I have this zip lock but it is too large. How would I go about making it smaller without fucking it up?
I though about cutting it and using a lighter to melt the plastic so it seals. Anyone have any better ideas on how to melt the plastic? No bully ty
>>1050963
...fold the bag over the ticket where it's too big and tape it?
>>1050963
cut around ticket while in bag
light with lighter to seal
or you can iron the sides if your not a savage
even if you were to manage a smaller bag through melting it'd fall apart easily and serve no ticket protection purpose. quit being a fucking wierdo
I want to...leave
28, beginning to hate my career, feel the stress of a feminized workplace that has no leadership and lack of communication.
Work to afford rent in a place swamped with traffic, tangled side streets.
Where do I go? How can I self-sustain?
>>1050930
quit your job, move elsewhere
>>1050930
Do you work a Harvard? I do and literally everything you said is true. I'm offing myself just before Christmas.
>>1050930
Look into homesteding(so?) Grow you own food like a farmer, sell some locally for a bit of cash. I know how you feel and I am building my wealth so at around 35 about I can sell everything and go off the grid/live of the land. Though I want to look at tropical options for growing seasons and good climate(haven't don't any research on those yet)
What is the best tool or jig to accurately sharpen drill bits?
PS I don't believe in doing them by hand with a grinder since deviations in the bevel lengths results in oversize holes which especially leads to problems when tapping holes
>>1050922
I use one made by "Darex" but "new" it's probably outside the price range of most hobbyists.
If you hit up some machinery auctions you might pick one up cheap though, and they are very very accurate.
>>1050923
darex sells drill doctor
i wonder what they stripped out for the consumer version
---
i just buy loads of cheap drill bits. although slowing down and feeding at the right rate is the right thing to do
>>1050922
>What is the best tool or jig to accurately sharpen drill bits?
The top drill doctor ($130) is really the best thing there is, until you spend $1300 or so for the cheapest Darex model there is. Or there's ancient things like Quorn cutter grinders, if you want a whole new hobby.
>PS I don't believe in doing them by hand with a grinder since deviations in the bevel lengths results in oversize holes which especially leads to problems when tapping holes
What you can do is have a set of hand-sharpened drills for most drilling, and then a set of new still-factory-sharp drills for finishing holes.
If you need a perfect 3/8" hole, you use one of the hand-sharpened drills to make a hole 1/32" undersized, and then use the new 3/8" drill to bore out the final hole.
The main problem you get when using hand-sharpened drill bits for metalworking is that the point isn't centered, which leads to off-center holes.
The way you get around this is you use a drill press or mill, clamp the work piece and you step-drill up from a small size.
Such as: to drill a hole 1/2", you first drill a 1/4" hole, then a 3/8" hole, then a 13/32", then a 7/16", then a 15/32", and finally the 1/2". Each hole will be more-centered than the last.
I've not found tapping to be greatly critical of hole size, but then I don't know what you are doing exactly.
If you are using spiral-point or spiral-flute taps, you can drill the hole a few thousandths under and the tap will just cut it out anyway.
I don't know about you guys but where I live in the south porches are an important part of a home were a lot of time is spent, anyway I have a 28X40 double wide mobile home im wanting to build a wrap around porch 10ft wide in front and back and 6 ft sides metal roof over all including the house, im just looking for cool ideals on how to make the roof not look so shity like pic related (straight down) and also nice ideals for the steps show off your porches, thanks
>>1050844
>cool idea
>practical
pick one
>>1050852
Oh it's not possible to have both?
>>1050844
Buy pic related
Any tips on making a horizontally rotation housing? It should hold a solar panel. I've already got a dc motor from a windshield wiper that should give the needed power. My problem is how to move the rotation from the dc motor to that housing. Ive already made a concept idea(pic related, only horizontal axis is needed), what I need is some conrete solutions that were already made and used. Any advice would be helpful and appreciated.
'Solar Panel Tracker', multi-axis
Yea, but i only found some wiring and/or arduino code solutions, not mechanical part hoe to make that rotation thing, and its only one axis
>>1050780
>Any tips on making a horizontally rotation housing? ... Any advice would be helpful and appreciated.
Assuming it's a pretty small/light-weight thing--
I would skip the DC motor and just buy and use stepper motors instead. A stepper motor makes definite steps, that a microcontroller can count as it progresses. This ends up being MUCH easier to deal with, in terms of programming controlled incremental movement.
The problem with a DC motor is that there is no quick and convenient way to regulate exactly how far it rotates when any amount of power is applied for any amount of time. You need an absolute rotary encoder for that, and there's no cheap or easy solutions to get or make one.
As for how to move it, you could just use some linear stepper motors for both axis.
It would not be able to rotate more than 180°, but then, it doesn't need to rotate that far anyway. In the early morning and late evening you're probably not going to get a lot of power anyway, so just tracking from like 9 AM to 6 PM is enough.
To make a vertical pivot, go buy two cheaper normal/horizontal ball-bearing pillow blocks, fasten them to a board and stick that on the [ vertical ] pole. (the pole will need to be 3/4" ~ 1" or so, whatever the pillow blocks are sized for) The pillow block collars have a little set screw in them to keep the axle from sliding lengthwise; just tighten the shaft collars so it stays at the top of the pole.
Hello /diy/,
Anybody know a good method for sending messages wirelessly to an Arduino? I want to setup independent self-powered units that send sensory information that the Arduino can pick up. The less noise the better.
You need to provide more information.
How many units?
What type of sensors?
What range?
How often do the sensors need to transmit?
>>1050592
1 unit is fine for testing, but if I can have multiple ones that would be amazing.
Sensors that may include an accelerometer, humidity, temperature, etc.
Range of 100+ feet?
Continuous data from the sensors. Ideally as continuous as possible.
>>1050625
At that range, RF is probably your best bet. 2.4GHz wifi with directional antennas?
100 feet is a bit too far for bluetooth.
There's other options, but if you want a prebuilt arduino shield that you can just plug in, go for wifi.
ok ima make this simple
im making armor and i have a simple question
if you have a gut will it make it difficult to wear armor ? or make it look stupid if i do ?
Consider making it to fit the body, rather than force a 10lb ham into a tin can. Look at different types of armor before starting work. Maybe there is something in a style you hadnt thought of that can work for larger bodies.
>>1050494
thats not bad advice
im happy with my body for the most part i just wish i could hide my gut i conidered making chainmail fit to hold it in but that might be a terrible idea
EXCELSIOR
I'm not sure whether this is a common thing on here or not.
But i'm having this project in school. We're gonna make parachutes. Mostly for calculating stuff and such for physics, but also just because the teachers want us to du stuff.
I don't have that much to make it from, but i could probably rip an umbrella and use it's fabric. I'm pretty sure that i've got some wire lying around. I could probably make if from plasticfoil or something too, i have no idea.
Could i loan an idea of yours?
I'm not sure how heavy the bottle we will be dropping is though. It was either 0.25kg or 0.5kg.
>>1050216
Fuck you, you didn't google it.
>>1050217
I did, but i'm empty
>>1050216
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+make+a+small+parachute
I'm looking to make some knife scales and would appreciate any input on which wood to use.
The home improvement place nearest by has small strips of Oak, Aspen, Poplar, Cherry, Hickory, Mahogany, Maple, and Walnut that should be just big enough.
>>1050204
I love that guy, but he's definitely on speed. Nobody loves wood that much. Coming from a man who thinks tiger-eye maple and quarter-sawn oak is sexually arousing.
>>1050204
Oak - not recomended for handles. The porous grain will soak up skin oils/water/dust/random shit and eventually look like garbage. Unless you want to finish it with 100000x coats to fill the grain. I may be exaggerating slightly.
Aspen - Never used. Should be fine?
Poplar- Boring wood, medium hard, very easy to work. Nothing special, nothing bad.
Cherry-Never used myself, but I've seen high quality work out of it. Finishes very nicely. Grain is both gorgeous and faint, so I recommend natural finishes like Tru-Oil to bring it out the best.
Hickory-Looks boring, but highly functional, very hard and durable. Slightly open grain, seal it well.
Maple-Easy to work, finishes light, very durable.
Walnut-Dense and solid, grain splits like a bitch, but if you can find and deal with working some curly grain walnut it's fucking gorgeous.
visit knife making dot com (Jantz Supply) then look for the handle material link.
Otherwise cherry stained with lye, nickle/silver wire inlay and nickle/silver hilt
so im freezing to death
i had an a/c that doubles as a heater but it broke
and a radiator that melted while working
and i only had a tiny heater left wich fan broke
i have tried everything (i slapped it a few times) and it doesnt work
how do i warm myself so i dont get really sick?
>>1050092
Help, you have saved me before
You stopped me from melting my shit filled toilet when I was so sick I walked around on a pair of pants completely retained in shit for a week
Is there any way of controlling it with fire? I have an oven, can I leave the oven on while I sleep?
Blankets and coats dude. It's not rocket science
>>1050106
I am at my maximum blankets and clothes
I'm not exactly rich, I have beeniving alone for a year
Also I had the heated electric pad that I had to buy when I fucked up my neck and is now over my belly wich is helping a bit
But I don't know if it's safe to use all night
I posted this on /g/, they are dicks.
Lets say that I own a cheap tube based guitar amp. I took the pcb out, learnt some shit from it (no schematics on the net!) and then I drew my own schematic. Based on the preamp of a Marshall Mastervolume (JMPmk2/JCM800 22??), a hybrid of typical 18w el84 poweramps and the one that was originally in my amp and the original powerstage (see lower schematic).
I think I calculated the voltages correctly from the values on the pcb, however the amp originally only featured two preamp valves.
I also want to make the amp cathode biased, which it was not. See unused cables with measured voltages.
My question is: Is there anything I need to modify on the left side of the upper D voltage? (Going to V1/V2) Or will this simply not work?
Is my powertransformer supplying enough current?
If you don't want to tell: How can I calculate if it is enough?
PS: I used google (a lot), but I am stuck
I noticed that there are some mistakes in my circuit: Wrong fuse T1, Capacitors labled in wrong order, tubes (V1/2/3 are ECC83/12AX7 and V4 and V5 are EL84) and diodes miss values..
Ignore those obvious mistakes of mine
>>1050024
>those obvious mistakes of mine
Were you counting these?
>>1050054
You're right, had not seen that one. When I started working my way through the pcb I made that mistake as I was confused and had not seen the center tap.
Now: Can you help me with my actual questions?
what do you think of this /diy/?
>>1049752
it is kinda ugly. but i guess you are american so well done: your wall now is twice as thick as usual. and that's clearly a win for murrican craftmansship.
>>1049752
I think it could look cool.
I also think you're a massive alcoholic. But so am I, so whatever. I don't judge.
>>1049752
What did you use to seal it?