Im currently in the process of fixing up my great grandparents(rip) house with the intention of moving there eventually.
As Ive been cleaning it up Ive ocasionally heard small sounds in the attic/inside the walls which I can only assume to be coming from mice and or rats. There are no human food sources as the house has been abandoned for years, so I can only guess they are getting their food from the outside?
I was wondering if the constant presence of humans when I move will possibly scare them off or will it just exacerbate the problem? I'll make sure to keep any potential food out of their reach to minimize their presence regardless.
Im not getting a cat and have no intention of using poison or glue traps as I find it just plain cruel. I dont think live or snap traps would really fix the problem either because the population would just keep replacing itself.
Ideally Im aware the best way to deal with these issues is to block any means for rodents to get in but as of now that's simply impossible as there are unused rooms(which I wont be renovating) with plenty of potential entrance holes/crevices and there's no way I would be able to close them all.
But yeah, I was just wondering if human presence has the chance of scaring them off or should I just get used to live alongside them? I guess I can deal with it as long as they dont get in my way much. And if so do you have any tips to keep them from messing up my stuff? I havent found any droppings yet so maybe there's a chance they stick to the attic/walls and stay away from the actual living areas?
Btw, since there's no food in the house is there anything Im missing that the house might be providing them, besides shelter?
>>1049108
>I dont think live or snap traps would really fix the problem either because the population would just keep replacing itself.
you can kill 20 in a night with a standard mousetrap. they aren't replacing that.
>>1049111
Lol, jeez Im hoping there arent that many but still, how would they not be replaced as long as there are means for more to enter?
>>1049108
Rats and mice can collect and their own food easily. Human presence doesn't bother them for the most part. If you are opposed to traps humane or otherwise and cats then your only option is to find where they keep their food hoard and nest and disturb them repeatedly. Also depending on what they are mice fit in the smallest crevices and rats simply chew their way into your home so there's no way of preventing them if you provide adequate shelter for them. Also they may a nest dug out nearby your home. Death is the best method.
What is the contractor's equivalent of "spitting in your food?"
>>1041931
Probably calling his contacts and advising them to not do business with you.
>>1041931
leaving egg inside wall/under the floor.
pointing out your opinions of what other trades did way too late in the process
>those can lights dont look lined up
>hmm this tile doesnt really feel level
>is that a nick in the bathtub?
>those cabinet handles look a little goofy where they're drilled
Has anyone here kept bees? I've found what I think is a huge hive in the wall of an old barn.
https://www.honeyflow.com/shop/flow-hive/flow-hive/p/133
This premade solution has a valve you open for honey to reduce work, but its fucking $700.
https://wasatchwarre.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/plans-for-p-chandler-top-bar-hive.pdf
This plan seems easy enough and would be quick enough that if I decide to say screw it, I won't be out much time.
http://theselfsufficientliving.com/10-free-langstroth-and-warre-or-top-bar-beehive-plans/
Which I found from the site above which has both poverty tier hives and some that look like too much of an investment.
If there is a better plan for a hive please post.
>I have all tools and skills to do any of these.
Also I've already ordered a bee suit and smoker/pellets that should be next week and I plan to relocate the bees about 300ft.
What are my chances of fucking up and just killing the queen and destroying the honeycomb? I mean I want the bees removed regardless, but honey out back sounds pretty cool.
>>1053185
the flow hive is a meme product. Any and all of the pros on the forums and youtube agree it's overpriced for what it is and does.
My Japanese style hive.
>>1053245
Basically, it just simulates a hollow tree.
And because of how they naturally stratify the comb with honey at the top, harvesting is as simple as cutting off the top box.
Is this is cringiest project to date?
>edge jointing before face jointing
>no sacrificial boards when planing
>woodturning on a metal lathe
>cutting it to size after applying a coat of finish
>painting those beautiful legs
>using a hand plane across the grain
>that retarded method of mounting the top
well done Jimmy "JUST" Diresta...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTN35bG8JT4
>>1051667
not to mention the table sides that will instantly snap if anyone tried to do the matthias pomf on it
>>1051667
>painting that awesome wood used in the pedestals.
I have seen bad stuff happen on pillar drills when you don't clamp your steel down.
last >>1045326
tp://pastebin.com/9UgLjyND
>I'm new to electronics, where do I get started?
There are several good books and YouTube channels that are commonly recommended for beginners and those wanting to learn more, many with advanced techniques. The best way to get involved in electronics is just to make stuff. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty.
>What books are there?
Beginner:
Getting Started in Electronics Forrest Mims III
Make: Electronics Charles Platt
How to Diagnose and Fix Everything Electronic Michael Jay Greier
Intermediate:
All New Electronics Self-Teaching Guide: Kybett, Boysen
Practical Electronics for Inventors: Paul Scherz and Simon Monk
Advanced:
The Art of Electronics by Paul Horowitz
>What YouTube channels are there?
https://www.youtube.com/user/mjlorton
https://www.youtube.com/user/paceworldwide
https://www.youtube.com/user/eevblog
https://www.youtube.com/user/EcProjects
https://www.youtube.com/user/greatscottlab
https://www.youtube.com/user/mikeselectricstuff
https://www.youtube.com/user/AfroTechMods
https://www.youtube.com/user/Photonvids
https://www.youtube.com/user/sdgelectronics
https://www.youtube.com/user/TheSignalPathBlog
>What websites feature electronics projects or ideas?
http://adafruit.com
http://instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-technology/
http://makezine.com/category/electronics/
>Where do I get components and lab equipment from?
digikey.com
jameco.com
sparkfun.com
ramseyelectronics.com
allelectronics.com
futurlec.com
ladyada.net/library/procure/hobbyist.html
mouser.com
alliedelec.com
newark.com
ebay.com
>What circuit sim software do you use?
This mostly comes down to personal preference. These are the most common ones though:
NI Multisim
LTSpice
CircuitLab
iCircuit for Macs
>What software should I use to layout circuits?
Circuit Wizard
ExpressPCB
EAGLE
KiCad
Do any of you have experience with voltage inverters? I'm using a TC7660S with 12V input and it's only outputting -7V in my design. If I isolate it it gets all the way down to -9V. I've got a 10uF polarized cap on it just like it asks for. Why is it not outputting the right voltage?
>>1050988
It needs an output capacitor. They also tend to have pretty high output impedance.
>>1050988
How much current are you drawing? The output impedance is around 50 ohms, i.e. it will drop a volt for every 20mA drawn.
Also, ensure that your caps have low ESR. The RC time constant needs to be much less than the switching period. Electrolytics intended for filtering 120Hz ripple won't necessarily suffice at 45kHz.
porn thread. metal/wood or whatever tickles your dick
Can someone help me figure out what kind of compressed gas is in this cylinder? There are no markings or stickers that would make it easy. I called some gas supply stores and they told me anything from nitrogen to chlorine to sulphur dioxide. This is what is known so far:
>Cylinder is 1 year old and never used, cylinder is from 10/15 and valve is from 8/15
>Low pressure cylinder with welded seam
>rotarex cga 660 valve (pictured)
>Colorless, odorless, tasteless
>extinguishs a flame (spray in plastic bottle and insert lit bbq lighter)
>appears to be lighter than air (if you wait to insert the lighter it will not extinguish and you cannot "pour" the gas onto a flame as with co2)
>no liquid in cylinder when shaken
>no spray or fog when either valve is opened
>does not super cool or freeze (I can put my hand right over the open nozzle with no immediate discomfort)
>Comes from a place that regularly uses and orders nitrogen, co2, argon, acetylene, and oxygen
Additionally this is what is stamped around the shoulder:
>Dot-4bw300
>M4543
>Worthj
>10-15
>Wc-42lb
>Tw- 21.5 lb
>6848jj (likely serial number)
>>1057862
Helium maybe?
>>1057872
Possibly, not exactly sure why a mechanics shop would have helium though
>>1057875
You said it was a year old and never used. Breathe it in boi.
I have a air "conditioner" for my airplane, its an ice chest with a pump-->heat exchanger
google "arctic air sportys" I have the 52qt version if you want to know the intricacies. dont worry i didn't pay that, but yes everything in aviation is fucking crazy expensive.
I want to make the cold last longer. Anything I can do? Is there a material (remember, there is a weight penalty to contend with here) that can get colder or stay cold for longer? Maybe a non-corrosive additive?
I have a few gel ice packs that state/claim they stay colder for longer than ice, thats the best ive got so far.
before anyone suggests it, no dry ice: it'll kill me all the way dead and give me a bad case of the crashes.
You want to add more thermal capacity to the resevoir. What you really want to do is use salted ice below zero. As far as I know, water has one of the best non-toxic and most cost effective heat capacities. Find out for yourself if things like liquor have a greater thermal capacity; stay cold for longer.
More water, ice, and even frozen water bottles to further the longevity.
You might also want to look into thermoelectric cooling, TEC plates, and peltier plates (all the same thing). Basically it uses electricity to make one side of a plate super cold. The other side gets hot. The vary from 12v to 24v which your plane should be fine powering; but they do draw a little bit of amperage.
Ice frozen in the bottom of an ice chest set to its coldest setting will stay colder longer than ice frozen in the family freezer. Remember, it freezes at 0C, but once it has changed to a solid state it will continue to drop in temperature.
Basically you want to take any room temperature liquid mass, mass and therfore weight is a factor, and drop it's temperature below its freezing point as low as you can. You will pull out a few more minutes of cooling because it has to change states to get back to room temperature. This is why water works pretty well.
If it's dry enough in the plane at altitude then you could get more cooling g by making a secondary evap cooler. At that point is may be worth the weight of a scavenged single room ac and battery.
Last suggestion is to put a drain on the box. Heat transfers to the water more readily than the air so you're heating part of the ice with heat that's already been removed from the air.
>>1057576
Best I can do right now is frozen milk jugs of ice bricks. Plastic is slower to let the cold out than metal so thats a trade of coldness for length but I could do metal too.
This thing works by circulating water thru a pump though (there has to be some liquid water with the ice) so salt will fuck it up that way, probably mess up the coil too. Would salt in the milk jugs work though?
>>1057581
Yeah I could get a freezer than gets super cold. it better be more than a few minutes though, i dont want to pay legit money on powering a super cold freezer for no reason.
problem with a regular A/C unit is that it needs to vent hot air out somewhere. that would mean cutting holes in planes. thats why this seemingly goofy gizmo is touted as 'a $600 solution to a $25,000 problem'
as far as a drain, i wouldnt need one (if i wanted to i'd just let the jugs thaw and run just the fans) but the fans themselves dont do much. its the pump that really makes cold, and the pump needs some liquid.
I've got 3 hours to hide 30k in $50 notes, using only the materials available in my house. I have a plastic gasoline container made of high-density polyethylene. If I stuff the notes inside it and then bury the container, will it protect the notes from moisture and rot for at least 6 months? I'm in a temperate climate with lots of rain and clay soils.
yes, but you need to bury it in the woods or something and cover with leaves, disturbed soils near your house are prime suspect
>>1056133
>are we possibly aiding and abedding by commenting on this?
Whatever. If you stuff the money in there, it will not rot like other paper, as long as the container is tightly closed and relatively dry. Empty out the gas and use some form of air pressure to speed up evaporation of the rest. Your cash might stink of fuel later, but it will be dry.
Also as >>1056136 says, don't give it to a friend, neighbour or bury it at your usual haunts or in obvious "he'll probably bury it here" places. Try to be original.
>>1056133
Btw, police have money sniffing dogs, if they search with those near your digsite you're fucked.
How do I keep my coffee hot longer, /diy/?
>>1053353
double-walled cups
>>1053361
Do they work as well as insulated mugs? I can't find a single result for an insulated mug that isn't for portable use.
>>1053353
get those thermo cups(maybe thier called insulated) and pre heat it with boiling water, usually while you wait for the coffee to Finnish.
get a lid for it, that insulate good and but some insulation on the bottom of it
Alright fellas what are some things you do around the house to make it more secure and to scare off burglars?
hang a negro in the front yard.
>>1048779
Burglars can get into any house, but they almost never intentionally rob places when people are home. Being friendly with your neighbors helps, too. This makes them suspicious of strange people and more likely to call the cops. I would think cameras are better deterrents than good locks.
>>1048781
Good to know there are still degenerates on this board.
Any advice on what to and not to buy?
>>1041564
Dont buy a $3 hobo freight multimeter
>>1041569
what's a decent price? do you have any recommendations? amazon links perhaps?
Depends on what are you going to do with it and what is the acceptable price range.
Hello people, I'm new around, I'm just dropping by to find out how I can cut a tile without a tile cutter.
What I have: a serrated kitchen knife, a serrated electric knife!, a hand saw.
The cut I'm making is just a straight line as the tile is a tad to big for my tthe enclosure I want to put it in
Help is appreciated
Thanks
Who is this semen demon?
>>1058651
Yes, it will just be extremely painful, slow, and will do no good to any of those implements
>>1058651
Tile, being ceramic, is very hard. It will ruin anything not made to cut it and anything not made to cut it will leave a shit edge on it.
i have a working landline in another room. i tried moving my router up to this jack but ive got nothing. the wiring all looks ok
is there any test i can do on a phone line with a simple multimeter? ive tried testing between the different leads but i cant find anything
its a very old house. im wondering if once upon a time the line was a different number thats now inactive
I am unaware of any router that uses a 2-wire phone line. You probably need a cat-5 ethernet cable and jack.
>>1058583
Connect a stripped telephone cable to one side, join the stripped wires by pairs, test at the other side side for continuity between pairs with the multimeter, if a pair is open you have two potentially damaged wires, repeat the process alternating the connections of the stripped wires to find the one that is shorted.
It might be the phone company who came to install the phone line cut it at some point, those bastards cut one of the wires I had installed, causing the telephone at the other side of the house to stop working.
>>1058583
Plug a phone into the jack and see if that works. (Unless you have a dryloop, then you couldn't tell)
Are you talking about a dsl modem you're moving to this new outlet? Are you plugging it into the right one? There's only wires connected to the one on the right of your picture.
Additionally, your DSL splitter might be at the NID/Demarc --where the phone wires come into your house. So the DSL signal is going only to the one room it was in originally. It's automatically filtered out of the rest of the house.
>>1058587
It probably had a ~600k short or a ground on it, which might have just been from your phone on the other end, or it was off hook while he was there. he should have let you know he did it though, but there almost certainly was a reason. Op's wire is original to the house anyway, or at least very old.
Greetings /diy/,
I'm trying to mount my flat-screen TV against my wall and above my fire place. Instead of buying a mount, I'll be using two strut channels - one to mount against the wall and the other to mount against the back of the TV.
The issue: there is an odd number of studs behind the wall (3) so I must run the channel from opposite ends of the wall.
For aesthetic purposes (as well as efficiency), I'd rather just have a foot or two of strut channel against the wall.
The TV is 3'9'' long and 25 lbs.
Is there anyway (outside of trial and error) that I can know if a single screw onto the middle stud can hold up this TV?
Important: The wall is made of drywall.
Thanks
just get a mount you clown
>>1058520
No.
I could run two struts across and screw them into the center strut alone - to allow more weight bearing, but, again, I want to be as efficient as possible.