Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 365. page

>>1074111
TEGs are very inefficient at generating electricity from heat, and you'll need a significant temperature difference to get anything useful out of them. i red somewhere that even having a hot air engine with a dynamo is still more efficient than a TEG,

>>1074122
This, maybe you could use the heat to heat water or something

>>1074111
>>1074122
>>1074132
TEGs are fine when you have a lot of them together. They are a good solid state solution to waste heat electric generation. They are easy to install and have little maintenance. Their only draw backs are initial expense and low output per square foot.

Fluid-based PV panel cooling is also a good option, but requires a lot of space just for the heat exchangers in both removing the heat from the PV panels and placing it into whatever device you want to use to make electric with. This type of cooling is better used for heating potable water for domestic use in houses than for making electric in a van (if pic is related.) Faults and failures in the system become very messing and troublesome. In cold areas, you must have 2 fluid circuits if heating domestic-use water. One is antifreeze and the other is the domestic-use water. For non-domestic-water use you only need the antifreeze circuit. The best electrical generation would be to use the fluid system with a Stirling Engine of rather large diameter. Remember that all parts of the system except the heat exchangers must be well insulated and have active flower using a pump (the pump will eat up more electric efficiency). Thermosiphon flow can't be done efficiently when the heating is at the top of the circuit.

Costs for the fluid-based system will ultimately be higher than the TEG system for the amount of watts you will be able to attain. Costs also include maintenance and time spent designing, maintaining, and building a non-standard fluid system.

Using only air instead of fluid would be a waste of time and effort.

All cooling methods for PV panels will increase the efficiency of the panels and extend their life.

>>1074057
>Picture unrelated
>No useful info
>No tools
>No skills
>Wheres my DIY Bingo image when I need it

>How does a WiFi receiver work
Google it.

>how can I build a bigger, more sensitive one
The antenna is probably more important than the receiver for whatever it is you are doing. You can Google that too.

Acquire PhD in RFIC design or equivalent

>>1074057
Perhaps I should have specified antenna.

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just stuff more graphics cards in, and use SoftTH
nvidia nvs280s were adequate as secondaries when i had a video wall

>>1074008
Usb to vga adapters?

>>1074100

that right there is fucking stupid. why thew hell use 6 smal monitors when you can buy a like 72" TV or video display and eliminate those fucking bezels that just would annoy the fuck out of me watching video on that

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Left side (from the back)

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>>1074006
Right side

>>1074007
>>1074006
Find the backlight control board
replace the caps one by one until the buzzing stops.

Alternatively sell that piece of shit on CL and buy a new one.

If these consoles you are referring to are actual hardware, then it won't be very easy.

You would have to program each "box" with something like a Tensy that knows how to send the correct signal to the console port.
`

>>1073932
> Would using something like HDMI be a bad idea?

I want you to go over the list of these boards that you're going to hook up to this thing and ask yourself that question again.

>>1073942
>>1073954
I think you guys misunderstand my idea.

Each button on the arcade stick has two wires: "on", and ground. The ground is common throughout the entire stick. There's 4 directions on the stick, 8 buttons on the face, a "coin"/back button, and a start button. That means I have a maximum of 15 wires.

The PCB of console pads typically has a common ground. When you "pad hack" a PCB, you are soldering two wires onto each corresponding button on the PCB: "on", and ground. So if I have a Saturn controller, there's 4 directions, 6 face buttons, and a start button.

My arcade stick wires would pass through the DB15 (for example), into the DB15 port on the project box. Then these wires would run to the console controller PCB which were "pad hacked". The PCB already does all the signal processing, and the PCB also already has a cable coming out of it which goes to the console.

I already have this working on my finished arcade stick. The only difference is I'm adding a DB15 (or whatever) "middle man". I don't see why HDMI wouldn't work as well, or any other standard where there are at least 15 insulated copper wires.

My problem is that I want to find something more wieldy than DB15. DB15 would mean that I have a big, fat cable coming out the rear of my arcade stick. I also want to find something that won't easily be yanked out. CAT5 would be a good one, but there are only 8 signal wires and they are of a fairly small diameter.

Smash with hammer?

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>>1073885

>>1073885
Aside from illegally inducing hypotensive fainting/death in people you don't like, not much.

>>1073841
Have the manual version. I will tell you right now, you have to constantly check this fucking thing because of how shit the design is. Any bump on the head will push the vertical axis out of square. Even just regular milling will push the vertical axis off square. I bought the fixed column so that it wouldn't be useless but the bolt pattern is different. Was going to drill the base to mount it, but just left it collecting dust after I got tired of it.

Another shit part of the design is how much backlash it has, forget the anti backlash nuts, the leadscrews themselves are only fixed to the base through the set screw in the handwheels and they have so much slop. Then you have play perpendicular to each axis because of the shitty plastic single sided tapered gib on each carriage.

I am just waiting till I have the space and money for a better machine, then I will melt down this piece of shit and save some one else the trouble of going through the same nonsense.

>>1073854
LOL.
A glowing review.
Well, if it doesn't work for me, or I can't upgrade it enough, I'll sell it to someone.
I'm not invested too much.
I wanted the extra movement of this column because I may need to mill from the side.
Thanks though

>>1073854
so how tight can I expect the tolerances to stay using the whole stage?
I'm just doing arty stuff, not building aircraft.

>>1073740
get rid of the shelves under the main desk, your legs will thank me later

>>1073741
I am putting those there for stability as there are no supports under the main seating space. Without those the desk would bow in the middle. Any suggestions?

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>>1073743
add structure beam across in the middle

back sides use boards as bracings, also allow cable management mounted on it

>>1073606
The thing with cutting glass is to firmly and steadily press your cutter into the glass as you score. Then get the score to hang just over the edge of your surface.

Grab the edge of the glasswith your fingers wrapped under the edge (wearing leather gloves) and the heel of your palm on top.

Pull up ever so slightly to get and even pressure on your fingers and barely lift the glass off the surface.

Using your shoulders press down firmly and quickly. Do.not.hesitate.


Holding it like that gives you the ability to hold and control the glass better after breaking and distributes the loading better. If you just hold the glass with your fingers you lose control easier especially with larger pieces.

Helped my uncle for a few summers who was a glazer

>>1073610
or just put a dowel under the score and press each side

Is the glass tempered perhaps? Realistically you can only cut ordinary float glass with a glass cutter like in pic. Unless you use the method described here (which is unrealistic).

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-cut-tempered-glass

As for what it cost to go to some local shop and have them use their machines, impossible to tell. Some would rip you off, some would tell you to fuck off, some would do it for a beer and a friendly chat.

PS. I'd build the lid out of acrylic or polycarbonate, never have to worry about it breaking. Neither into shards nor into little pieces.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZE9sN_hTVc

Read the sticky, ask google first. There have been hundreds of videos/how-tos made online.

>>1073579
You haven't looked at my picture or watched the video, have you.
My broken hinge problem is of the less usual variety, and any meaningful search results get drowned out by broken hinges such as the one in the video

tl;dr Try again.

>>1073587
First related video:
https://youtu.be/LG4A5AU8BCw
Maybe you should try again.

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Heres picture number one.

Sadly for me a barkbeedle seemed to have bored some holes below the surface and made its home. But all the pieces are still useable!

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>>1073465
Picture number 2

Prices written are for local! Remember anons who asked her get special prices!

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Final image.

The Ts stand for pieces that can be used for turning. And the Xs are thin pieces that are extra and could be sliced on a bandsaw and used for inlay work. Or possibly you can use it for carving little animal curios. Or what ever you can think of.

>>1073452

The powder coat and laminate are unlikely to work well with a normal interior paint. So yeah, put something like Zinsser 123 on first and leave it to dry for a day. After that any interior or exterior paint should work.

>>1073452
You should scuff sand the surface before you prime it. You'll get better adhesion.

Obviously that's a point-of-no-return decision, since you'll fuck up the existing finish.

>>1073452
Legs dont match. But white matches everything. Paint the legs. Don't touch the top... Get a table cloth of a cutting pad if you think its too bland.

>>1073432
reinforced legs/metal plates that goes under the plant, like a bookstand

or similar setup, weight down with bricks

good luck OP, would love to see finished project

Thanks you the idea of a plate as the foot. I can't actually use the pot as part of the nets structure due to other complications. But I will run with the general idea.

>>1073457
Welp it's going to be another 5 weeks until then but I'll have my body from work weld up the feet. I want to be able to takes everything down nicely when it comes time to scrub the room between crops.

These links might be helpful:

http://projectsentrygun.rudolphlabs.com/make-your-own

http://projectsentrygun.freeforums.org/

>>1073317
thank YOU very much!!

I've been wanting to build something like this that shoots paintballs to keep deer out of my garden

Why not in the wall?

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>>1073231

Use a staple gun for cables. Or in wall.