Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 232. page

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What are some unconventional things you can use a stovetop and/or oven for? I am moving into an apartment and the rental agreement has the gas usage included in the monthly. The elec isn't so I'm trying to figure out what I can use my stove for instead of the wall socket.

Things I already thought of: A pot of boiling water (or making soup) would work as a humidifier, and I can pan, bake or flame-toast instead of a toaster, but there's got to be other things that I can do without burning my unit down.

P.S: What is the best way to keep the stove top free from getting nasty after cooking? Tinfoil on the parts I'm not using?

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Good day fellows,

I have been blacksmithing on a homebuilt forge for quite some time now. The annoying thing is, I can only do it outside (much to love of the neighbours, of which I don't care - the ones I'd care about have hearing disability already and the other ones are yuppie fucks) which is pretty shitty because I can't work when it rains. Water and furnace are no good combination.
Also prying eyes are sometimes a nuisance when you just wanna work in peace.
Now I've done some research, and hell, there's a lot of shops out there whoms exterior was built from wood. Now I understand that fire and wood is a very bad idea, but it got me wondering on how they did the insulation.

Read somewhere that they'd run a mixture on the ground which would get very hard after setting (sounds like concrete to me, but it was stated that it had to be sprinkled with water after every day). More interesting though is the walls.

I have a big space readily available at home. Problem is, it's a wooden barn. I don't wanna burn the place to the ground.
The to me most obvious approach is to line the walls with bricks and cement. Could work quite well. But then there's still the ceiling. Of course, most forges have this thing to keep the sparks from flying to far and to direct the smoke. But there is still sparks and they could get the wood of the top floor to burn, for it is dry. Is there some kind of fire insulation that can be screwed onto the ceiling and then never be messed with again?
Certain types of insulation wool are a mess because of the fibres.


I mean, after I fireproof the whole place it shouldn't be a problem. Just gotta keep the ventilation in check. Heck, I even have more than one of them old wood burning stoves/oven, I bet it'd be hella good a furnace if converted right.

Is lining the floor with concrete, the walls with brick and mortar and the ceiling with gypsum panels a solid plan for building a blacksmith workshop?

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Hey all, I recently picked up a drill press, and with it came this vise. When I tried to close the jaws, I was met with adamant resistance. I noticed that there is a small overhang of the cast iron over the threads, which only allows me less than a quarter turn of the handle. Enclosed is a picture of the problem, along with a rough drawing of what the hole would look like if the threaded rod were to be removed.

Is there any good way to cut/grind this overhang off without damaging the threads? I have a large assortment of woodworking tools, plus quite a few metalworking tools. Any ideas are welcome, thanks!

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Anyone here making their own biodiesel?

I've been collecting and settling used motor and cooking oils for the past few weeks.

I'm going to try my first small batches next week.

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Where do I get free house plans online? I don't want to get jewed by Internet architects.

My idea was to build a nice little cottage and use the rest of my land for farm animals and a greenhouse.

Going rate for an acre is 15k-20k here in Alaska and I'm budgeting for a total cost of 50k-75k.

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So I got these chink shit whetstones, the bottom one being from Walmart. Using the chink ones I can remove material but it seems to be dulling it no matter what angle I use.

How the fuck do I do this? I've tried watching videos and reading guides but I can't even reliably get burrs.

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Does anybody has a rational explanation of why an engineer would do this?

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Hello, /diy/. I don't come here much, but I need some assistance with ideas for insulation in a shed as I'd like to use it as a workshop and would spend a good amount of time inside.

The shed has a good roof and siding on the outside, but the inside is barren, just walls and studs. I already plan on sealing every crack and crevice I can find, but I'd like to insulate it a little in the cheapest possible non-toxic way. I won't own the property, so I'd rather not sink a bunch of money into the project and I don't have a lot of tools to put towards the project right now, so avoiding having to cut drywall or wood to cover the insulation would be nice. Doesn't need to be high-quality insulation, just a little something extra to help keep it a reasonable temperature when using a heater or small ac unit.

TL;DR: Need to insulate a shed on a low budget. Needs to be simple, non-toxic, cheap, and not require it to be covered. Doesn't need to be high quality or pretty.

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Daily reminder that pallet furniture is shit tier.

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Sup gents. I'm making a part on my mini lathe that requires a deep hole. I have the drill bit (16 inch long 3/16", hole will be 14" deep), cutting fluid, and everything works fine with the drill chucked into the tailstock. I've already made a part before with this drill, everything is going smoothly as before but it's very slow going. Pic related, I have to take the tailstock off completely to free the drill up since the bed is so short, you can see the part sticking out of the head off to the right. Obviously I don't have through-coolant so I have to pull out to evacuate chips and it gets time consuming when you're more than a foot deep with a 0.1875" drill.

So I have a quick change tool post and a boring bar tool holder. I can grab the drill higher up the shank so the tip can come free of the part within the carriage travel. I lined the drill up and clamped it securely with brass shims, so it's much faster.

The problem is the drill doesn't want to bite at all. It cuts smooth when it's in the tailstock, but now that it's on the carriage, it just crunches and bounces and bends. Tried various speeds/feeds, tried tapping oil instead of cutting fluid, she just don't want to fucking grab a chip.

What gives?

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Anybody here have any experience with selling through Etsy?
I just sold some pallet wood bar stools at a yard sale for $25 each.
Similar stuff on Etsy sells for $90 and up (plus shipping).
I'm wondering if I should make a bunch of bar stools and sell them on Etsy,
Tell me why I'm wrong.

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I'm looking to build a rolling spice holder rack that I could store in my cold pantry. The pantry itself starts above waist height, and I get in via a wooden ikea step.

The space into which I would fit the rolling spice-rack would be 500mm height, 400mm width, 180mm depth, so perfect for me to make it two sided (my jars are 85mm high, and they would be on their sides).

What I'm looking for are tiny caster rollers. Everything I have found are 6-10cm high, but that would look awful, not to mention center of mass would be set too high. I would like them to swivel, so that I can spin the rack.

Do you know any Aliexpress shop or webshop in Europe where I could order 4-6 of such tiny, swiveling rollers?

Thank you for your time.

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I need to spin a 48oz wheel mounted to a stepper at 1200 rpm. Time required to achieve maximum acceleration is not critical. For example, 5 or 10 sec, etc., is fine. The assembly would be oriented horizontally (like a turntable), and the wheel would not be interacting with any other parts. I realize a regular motor would give the same result, spin wise, but I'd prefer to use a stepper for (undisclosed) control reasons. Any assistance you can provide in selecting the right sized stepper would be most appreciated. Thanky.

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So I have an office in my house that I want better sound insulation. Right now its has french doors with single pane glass. I'd like to replace those door with exterior grade doors with internal blinds.

I know exterior doors usually have a threshold under them which I won't need inside. Whenever I go to the home improvement stores they all seem to scratch their heads at me. I can't be the only person that has wanted to do this. The doors opening (with the current frame) is 60 wide X 81 1/2 tall.

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I want to share a lesson I learned today: Be careful when ordering certain chips from Ebay. This was supposed to be the speech synth chip used in a speak-and-spell and other 80s toys, but it's garbage with a fake label etched into it.

I built the test circuit and noticed there was a problem right away because the chip was getting hot. I went over my circuit 20 times looking for a problem then started disconnecting Vcc and Gnd wires looking for the problem. I eventually found a two pins that are supposed to be high impedance input but on my chip output Vcc.

I did some googling and found other people had been ripped off with fake SP0256. Some signs that should have been obvious: Microchip never manufactured an SP0256. The label is laser etched which wasn't done in the early 80s. The pins show signs of desoldering even though it's supposed to be new.