Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 224. page

>>1129082
Go to a thrift store.
Acquire and old, wooden swivel chair for next to nothing.
Spend a few weekends trying to copy the design.
Waste a bunch of money on construction timber and fasteners from Lowes/HomeDepot
Have your garbage project fall apart 3 times before you give up on it.
Use the old, wooden swivel chair instead.

>>1129120

It does not have to swivel, those cheap ones always break and if you leaned the chair back it would fall over anyway

>>1129082
Car seats are much more sturdy than your average chair, mainly because they have to work in a goddamn car, have to sustain your body with all kinds of vibrations and need to stay firmly planted where they are in case of accidents.

There is a lot of metal in there that you can probably remove, first one being the rails and the sliding mechanism, maybe you even have an airbag in there that is heavy as fuck.

They sell some office chair bases with just the wheels and the piston and a bunch of adapter plates so you can mount car seats on them, but they are usually meant for bucket seats/race car seats that are a lot lighter or for car seats replicas that just look like car seats, but have none of the heavy features that would be necessary to put them in a car.

You can start by stripping the seat of its covers and removing a lot of metal and whatever mechanism you may not need for home use (recliner, adjustable back cushions, height adjustment and so on) so you can shave a lot of weight and perhaps even mount it on something taller than a pallet so you don't have to seat 10inches from the ground.

>>1139201
Just cut a notch in it and screw it in with a flathead.

>>1139201


Did you try using a wide flat rubber band over the tip of the screw driver and push it into the stripped screw head and try to turn it?

>>1139205
I had tried and didn't yield any results.

>>1139202
I'll try this when I get the chance, thanks.

>Get a metal bar
>Bend it to your head shape
>Screw/glue earpieces to the band

>Get a sweatband
>Wear sweatband
>Slip earpieces between sweatband and ear

>>1138962
Coat hanger, wire cutters, epoxy.

>>1138962

>Buy surplus peltor ear protection for 8€
>Dismantle jvc speakers.
>Mount speakers on the earpro.

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/

Try the forum. I know of no other european welding forums. I suggest contacting the manufacturer for a service manual.

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>>1138829
it runs the wire feed motor directly off the output voltage, because that's the cheapest and nastiest way to do it.

the tortoise/hare switch is your only external adjustment, but there'll be a trim pot somewhere inside the machine.

>>1138883
I'll try look for it , don't recall seeing a trim pot when I've tried to trace the power to the motor , but I may have missed it , also when toggling the tortoise/hare switch there was no difference in the speed at all. However I know the motor can run at a lower speed as there is an 'inching' button internally that puts the motor on constantly at a low speed

You can use MDF or hardboard (HDF) for the panel part. Or plywood.

I went to art school too and never used an easel. When working i would just have a sheet of plywood with a pair of small spring clamps on the top to hold the paper on. Sit on chair, bottom edge of board resting on knees, board leaning against side of table or counter or whatever was convenient.

>>1138688
1. I'd use some plywood or hardboard for the board, available at the closest hardware store near you. You can sand it so that it's smooth.
2. It seems those are just two dowels, made from metal. I'd use some machine screws or something, with some nuts to hold them in place. Maybe super glue them if you want. So just buy the actual flipchart, measure how big the holes in it are and how far away they are, and buy matching screws or something.
Here's a tutorial for you : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBXxAjOAu3U

>>1138688
Flip chart? What is your school arts and business joint?
You mean an easel?
Yeah it will need fixings. Probably cheaper to buy it used

wtf i meant /diy/
sorry for the autism

Impending HOA disaster

>>1138692
HOA?
I really don't know how to do this because of the rain water

the cheapest place to get parts for the internals (nozzles, cartridges, dispensers, etc), are from a second hand soda fountain

Other than that, it's just some hoses, some pressure regulators for the CO2 line, some bent stainless sheet metal rivetted together.

tip, don't test it with actual syrup, if there's a leak, it will get all sticky and shit

>>1138651
Came here to post this.

Gg

Not really, you wouldn't need something that reads that high unless you're going industrial. There's not a lot of situations in commercial that you'll need the higher reading

>>1138462
>>1138464

Inside wireman here. When working commercial my fluke t5 stays at home, and I use my $30 Craftsman clamp meter instead. Fancy meters grow legs. Conveniently, fancy meters are usually used on service calls or industrial settings where you aren't working with many people, or with anyone at all.

Just get any cat3 clamp meter and you'll be good to go.

>>1138462
Why are you trying to get back into commercial? I am working mostly residential and about to take my journeymans. Curious as to what you see in commercial worth leaving for when your already stamped.

>>1138351
You need to adjust the idle screw on the carb. Should be some YouTube vids to help you, can be tricky though.

obtain plastic squeeze bottle with small tip
add gasoline to bottle
remove air breather cover for access to carb intake
have second person there to pull the starter after you squirt a bit of gasoline into the intake
when mower starts, keep it running by adjusting how much gasoline you keep adding
after it runs a bit it's likely to continue running without assistance long enough to start making adjustments to the H and L settings as well as the idle set screw
good luck

>>1138390
>adjust the idle screw on the carb.
Start position on throttle is always above the idle setting.
The idle screw is only a factor when slowing the engine back down to 'Idle'

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>>1138302
Would putting rubber feet under it help to quiet it down?

>>1138312
No, the noise isn't coming from vibration, its the fan and air flow. Just a powerful wind-noise, nothing mechanical.

Currently found a hilariously ghetto solution of putting two chair backs to either side of it with bathroom towels draped over them, so that the noise is dampened to the sides (where we sit) but not directly in front of it (where the cold air is directed into the room).

Look ridiculous but did make the noise better.

Turn selector switch for HIGH-COOL to LOW-COOL

>>1138131
>it says it supports 100lbs but I'm sure it can support 150+
"Supports x weight" means that you can safely put x weight on it and go about your business without having to worry about it collapsing. The safety factors for dynamic loading alone are substantial (that hundred pound object might apply a thousand or more as you set it on the table). That said, there are other considerations, and exceeding rated loads should be done with caution.

As for the drawer, this depends somewhat on aesthetic considerations. T nuts from the top bolted into steel L brackets on the shelf sides would be plenty strong, but they'd mar the tabletop (counterboring could get them flat though). Wood screws would be individually weaker, but this isn't a very demanding application. A screw at each corner should work so long as they're seated deeply in the table and everything is tight with no wobble. You might consider a panel along the back of the drawer supports to box it in and prevent flexing at the L brackets.

1/4" ply would be overkill for a 50lb load in that setup. 3/4" will be nice and solid

>>1138143
thanks for the reply. The T-nut idea actually sounds good to me. I have a power drill that I could attempt to use for counterboring. I guess I could go pick up one of those drill guides to create a straight hole.

And just out of curiosity, If I did want to strengthen the weight bearing capacity of a table top, what would be the easiest way to do it?

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I was just thinking.

I will just use a cheap corner brace as a jig for drilling straight holes.

no, denim's not really a heavy fabric ('heavy duty' means seatbelt webbing, tarpaulins, leather belts etc)
a home machine will probably be fine.

an industrial machine is for going SANIC FAST; it isn't the right choice unless you're laying down literally miles of stitching, like sails or a circus tent.

>>1137781
I agree, but OP should be aware of some issues:

You're gonna get some difficulties if your home machine doesn't have enough foot pressure.
For example if you're going from 2 to 4 layers of denim and back to 2 (like in the crotch of denim jeans), having a walking foot of a industrial leather machine would make it a lot easier than stopping before the "node", shimming the foot, going over, shimming again, and continuing.

In either case, getting the right needle, and experience with a sewing machine are requirements before doing the final garment.

>>1137781
>>1137785
Thank you guys!

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Made this 'hidden in plain sight' thingy/decoration for my grinder yesterday lul. I stuffed it a little too much though, and I made it before I picked up a smaller hook so the stitches aren't as tight as they coulda been

>>1137636
looks like you're making a kippah. get the fuck out you filthy kike.

>>1137645
It looks like that every time you stitch in the round so every project starts a little jewy :'[

>>1137619
eShapeoko with 300W DC spindle

>>1137651
>eShapeoko
that design look overly complicated and not reliable at all
800 bucks is a pretty good budget for a desk cnc, check this one =>

https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-LY-3020T-D300-300W-Cheap-CNC-Wood-Carving-Machine/32296433032.html?spm=2114.06010108.3.251.tmPAqE&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10000560_10000073_10000561_10000074_10000175_10000507_10000401_10000505_10000068_10000063_10099_10000156_10096_10000569_10000097_10000094_10000090_10000091_10000147_10000144_10084_10000150_10083_10119_10080_10000153_10082_10081_10110_10111_10112_10113_10000535_10114_10000534_10000089_10000086_10000083_10000135_10000080_10078_10079_10073_10000140_10070_10122_10123_10120_10126_10124_10000546_10065_10068_10501_10000132_10000033_10503_10000030_10000126_10000026_10000129_10000023_10000123_432_10060_10062_10056_10055_10054_302_10059_10000120_10000020_10000013_10000117_10103_10102_10000016_10000114_10000111_10052_10053_10050_10107_10051_10106_10000621_10000384_10000101_10000100_10000579_10000104_10000045_10000578_10000108_10000612_10000613_10000390_10000042_10000592_10000039_10000587_10000036_10000389_10000187-10503_10501,searchweb201603_4,afswitch_1_afChannel,ppcSwitch_5,single_sort_2_default&btsid=fac2c96a-6c84-447b-8701-411bbf174376&algo_expid=c2cb619e-86c5-447f-b258-543e2a73d15b-34&algo_pvid=c2cb619e-86c5-447f-b258-543e2a73d15b

despite de aluminium frame ive read it is not suitable for aluminium milling, but it will be ok for wood without doubt

>>1137888
That fucking url

DESIGNATED

>>1137479
>Yakovlev

didn't kruschev give you a dacha for your heroism in the great patriotic war? tell her to go live there

Are you the same guy from a few months ago who was about to have his second floor pancake onto the first?