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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 198. page

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File: IMG_1990.jpg (299KB, 1242x897px) Image search: [Google]
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Come watch me fix up my backyard. This was a hell of a project that took many long hours of manual labor, but in the end it was worth it.
144 posts and 73 images submitted.
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>>1144328
It all started with this giant tree in the backyard. It was dangerously too big, one lightning bolt and it would fall on the neighbors house. The branches were full of carpenter ants, and it cast 24/7 shade in that area so the grass would never grow. Plus the dog got muddy paws when it rained so it had to go.
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>>1144331
My wife, in-laws, and dad all helped take this thing down. I can't thank them enough for all of the help they gave. Love my family, I couldn't of done it without them. We started by cutting down the main leaf parts one at a time...
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>>1144333
Lots of work here. We would tie a rope to the branch, cut it, and let it swing off of the next branch below it and then lower it down. Took forever but it worked like a charm

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Favourite tools?
75 posts and 32 images submitted.
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>>1143538
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>>1143538
anything by Craftsman
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>>1143543
>craftsman
amerifat

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Alright motherfuckers, this aint a game no more. The commies are coming and soon we'll be having red star retards on our soil. Tell me how I can properly bury a shipping container underground. If we want to survive, we want to go underground so they dont find us and leave.
41 posts and 14 images submitted.
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I guess it could work if you don't bury it or fill in the sides properly. Make the edge of the hole a birm so water doesn't run in, lay logs across the top and then a tarp. Then plant thousands of pricker bushes all around the area so no one will investigate.
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>>1143228
I think the consensus on shipping containers is you can't use them underground. Since containers are designed to place all their load on the corners, covering the roof with soil will collapse the container. You'd have to reinforce the roof, which defeats the purpose of using a container as a single item solution.

A better underground structure idea is a dome.
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>>1143228
>>1143298
Put it upside down solve half the problem. If your soil is hard and you made a just fit hole you can bury your shit.

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What's the best way to fix fist-sized holes in drywall?
49 posts and 8 images submitted.
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Cut it out so it's square, get small backer strips of wood, paint stirrers are fine. place on each side inside the wall, screw in with drywall screws, tape and mud all seams and sand smooth, nothing to it.

inb4 the "lol mericans and their cardboard and paper houses" meme
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>>1142149
Stop drinking dad!
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>>1142149
Put a poster over it

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can someone tell me what this is, or does it need to be capped off
8 posts and 1 images submitted.
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copper pipe with a copper pipe copper stopperâ„¢
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>>1150734
Temperature pressure relief valve. Do not cap it off but you can plumb the open end into a drain.
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>>1150734
that's the blowout valve. it keeps your water heating from becoming a rocket in the event of a malfunction.

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So I have the opportunity to live in a 16 x 16 shed and farm about 7 acres in central east Texas. The soil is mostly clay and the grasshoppers are big and numerous. What kind of equipment should I get for mowing and tilling the soil? What kind of crops should I plant? Is this a good idea or should I just work at wall mart?
7 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1150694
do you own the land?
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>>1150699
it belongs to my family.
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>>1150694
cultivate meth

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Hi all. Going to do some vinyl siding this spring over my existing wood siding. The house is old, and the studs are certainly not 16"o.c., nor are they regular. Finding them is next to impossible.

To make things better, the old siding is covered in lead paint, the city knows about it, and if I remove the siding, I have to pay a specialist to deal with the 'environmental hazard'.

So, I am not unfamiliar with siding new construction. But with this... what do I do as far as wraps, and also I'm not dealing with a flat surface. What do to flatten surface? And I'm certainly not likely to be nailing directly into a stud... is the siding and sheething enough bite to nail into?
9 posts and 2 images submitted.
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I was considering vertical furring strips? Wouldn't it be stronger to attach them directly to the wood siding? Every application I've seen has it layered furrstrip-foamboard-whateversubstrait

seems better to fit the foam board between the strips, not under them?!?
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>>1150599
>seems better to fit the foam board between the strips, not under them
If you care about the total thickness and want to minimize the offset at the windows and doors, put it between the strips which are nailed directly to the old siding.
If you are looking for maximum insulation and sealing, put vapor barrier and foam up first and strips on top.
Personally, I'd put the foam between the furring strips.
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>>1150605

Yes. I tend to agree that would be better, but was wondering why I don't see that application... almost ever? Every picture I've seen puts the foam under.

Frankly, I would be concerned with the layering being wood, foam, wood, what good the fur strips are even doing. That foam in the middle is as good as dead space... seems like you loose a lot of holding strength. Especially considering I'm almost guaranteed not to hit a single stud while putitng it all on.

My biggest concern is the siding not coming off due to nails sagging/pulling out wihtout enough to bite into. That's the whole reason I want to use furring strips in the first place.

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While the floor was being layed i obviously had to take the doors off the cupboards. however i reckon it actually looks better without the doors. the only thing that looks a little shit is the metal door frame. im guessing i cant even take it out because of the brick above it, so i think ill need to put a different frame or something in place.

What do you think? and what do you think of the way it looks?
8 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1150528
looks like shit, put a door on it, it is a cupboard not a bookshelf
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>>1150528
cupboards are for cramming shit into then closing the door when you need to tidy up.
looking at the picture its almost impossible that that wall is load baring. its doubtful even a brick wall is it? probably stud? plaster on timber? if so then yeah smash it out no problem. if its brick then there is no fucking way its held up by a door frame even if it is metal. have a look for an actual lintel. if there is a lintel then have at it, get the frame to fuck.
its 90% fine, if you want to be sure you need to do some more investigation or get someone in.
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>>1150536
my whole house is brick but idk if theres a lintel i dont think so but ill have to double check later on. i dont plan to cramp, just keep some clothes in it trying to minimalise what i own now days.

good to know its not load bearing or anything, what do you think of the way it looks though?

>>1150532
what in particular dont you like about it?

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Hey /diy/,

I'm relatively new to CNC machines and bought a CNC3040D with USB from China.

I got everything set up, works with Mach3, but today during a longer cut (roughly 1 hr in), it suddenly went completely off its path. It was cutting the F in the bottom left of the pic, too far out, too big and it went way too deep.

I have no idea why. Im using Mach3 over USB2 with a Laptop running Windows 7 on mains (Power settings set so it never sleeps away)

What am I doing wrong? The laptop?
6 posts and 2 images submitted.
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Maybe it was near the edge of how far it can move? Could mess something up.
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>>1150502
It was nearby, that's true. But still ~4cm away from the edge plus it has safety contact switches on each axis.
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>>1150499
After resetting, do an air pass of a short, known good program. Then, do an air pass of that section of the other program. The idea is to see if it is the program or a software/controller error. Also, triple check the power settings/sleep thing.

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Hey /diy/

Currently I'm working on a heating element in a mineral-oil vapour machine. I've managed to calculate how much energy i need per milliliter of oil in order to evaporate it - i plan on contacting the fluid with the resistance wire via a wrapping it around a lamp wick surrounding a wooden dowel ( shitty MS-paint example included ) - I plan on having the ends dipped in the oil , heated progressively as it gets wicked to the center ( elevated ) then vapourize at the pinnacle, as to prevent the wick burning.

My question is
- How do i know how much oil can be saturated on the wick at any given time given the contact point at the bottom, or just general saturation?
-At what rate does mineral oil move up the wick?

I couldn't find any resources online for those questions
8 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1150464

Your questions are extremely subjective, depending entirely upon the material, density, size of the wick, and temperature. Even if you DID know all these things, calculating your answers would be much, much more difficult than just taking some measurements with some samples.
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>>1150485
So I found a chart for mineral oil indicating that the boiling point ( begins producing vapour ) is @ 310 degree celsius

the specific volume of mineral oil is 0.88 kg/L = 0.88 g/ml

Q = m(Specific Heat)change in temp, assuming ambient to be about 15 degree Celsius i wind up with ( subbing specific volume in for mass )

Q = 834.750 J/ml. So it takes 834.75 Joules to bring 1 ml to boiling

I plan on hooking it up to a 12.6 Volt Car battery and want it to take about 3 minutes to begin producing smoke once hooked up or less, still working on those calculations but I'm going to post them upon completion, need these variables to finish them all however ( i think?)

In terms of materials I have
Wick: 3/4" inch wide, 100% cotton about 2 mm thick i'd say
Wire: Nichrome 80 Series 30 Gauge Resistance Wire w/ R = 6.76 ohms/ft

Sorry, this is my first time designing something and I'm trying to fill in the gaps, if there's any more info I can provide or is necessary pls respond
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>>1150489
Woops, for got to include Cp (Specific Heat ) = 1.67 KJ / KG * Kelvin

Used Q = m * (1.67( KJ / KG*K)) * ((310-15 ( ambient temp ) + 273 )

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Looking for a simple solar setup to power electronics (charge my laptop, phone, small USB lights) in my pickup truck. I'm not much of an electrician so bear with me, but would this setup work without killing me?

> Solar Panel
https://www.voltaicsystems.com/arc-20w-folding-solar-panel

> Wire for Solar Panel
https://www.voltaicsystems.com/extension-with-exposed-leads

> Charge Controller
http://webosolar.com/store/en/pwm-controllers/1089-phocos-cm-charge-controller-12-volts-04-amps.html

> Deep Cycle Battery
https://www.amazon.com/WindyNation-Amp-Hour-Reserve-Capacity-Battery/dp/B01ACKDGPS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1490399049&sr=8-3&keywords=solar+deep+cycle+battery

> Charge Meter (I don't really know how I would connect this or if this is the right item. Looking for something to measure the charge remaining in the battery)
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K9T4PDSE81ACSRM1AYG9

Also is there a better way to connect the panel to the battery other than clamps? Like something secure so that if I bump it (battery will be stored in the flat bed where I sleep in a camper shell) it won't risk disconnecting it?
11 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>1150334
you will surely perish
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>>1150365
thank god.
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battery/panel/charger are grossly mismatched.

find out what your power usage requirements are, size the battery properly to that, then size the charger properly to that, then size the panel.

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This might be a really noob-y question, but I can't really find a concrete answer online...
How do I turn a 3.3V signal into a 5V one?
Theoretically, a simple transistor should do the trick, but for the life of me I can't find a schematic online. Surely there needs to be some decoupling capacitors or whatever, right..? I don't even fully grasp what a "decoupling capacitor" is :-/

Alternatively, where do I gain the knowledge to be able to plan this kind of simple stuff myself and not have to rely on online schematics or help from anonymous strangers?
13 posts and 4 images submitted.
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You are looking for a logic level converter https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12009 there are other ways but I think this is one of the easiest.
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>>1150299
Thank you, looks about what I was looking for.
Any idea what breadboard-compatible alternative is there to a BSS138?
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You need to do a basic electronics course, and read a book or two about electronics. I learned at university, so my suggestion would be to grab some books like Sedra or Boylestad to learn electronics, also grab a Circuit Analysis book to learn the ropes and one of those 100 projects kind of books. The thing that helped me the most were the lab assignments and the fact that I was at the electronics club at my university, so doing stuff and projects will make learning faster. I think that a good starting point if you're not that serious could be the Make Electronics and Make More Electronics books by Charles Platt.

Sup /diy/,

Here's the problem. My kitchen and bathroom sing share the same drain pipe BUT. The bathroom one occasionally belches the most horrible swamp odour whilst the kitchen one doesn't, ever. They're connected! If I "blow" into one of them it comes up out of the other one.

Why does it smell, and why only the bathroom one? Pic related, a highly professional illustration of my flat setup
9 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1150247
Your plumbing vent and/or P-trap in your bathroom are fucked up or non-existent. If you can look at your sink drain does it come to a "u" shaped bend right after the sink? If it does is it shallower than the kitchen sink "u" shape? Does this stink problem arise when you flush the bathroom toilet and does the toilet have trouble flushing?
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>>1150251
it has a functional siphon at (almost) the same height as the kitchen one, this is a recent problem.
The toilet flushes perfectly and has no influence on the problem. sometimes when I come home the shit just fucking stinks
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>>1150247
Have a plumber snake your toilet, or the closest clean out. If it still does what it has been doing you need to have a camera inspection. If your drainage pipe is busted and underground your home owners insurance should cover the cost of repair.

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Basically, I went to the dump and picked up this lovely old TV, a Binatone Starvision 12" from 1978.

Since the government sold all the UHF wavelengths to the phone companies, I had the idea of making some device that would take the digital free-view channels coming from my satellite, convert them to various analogue signals, and send them to the television through the input in the pic.

Now I don't know if this is possible, but what would be cool is if I could construct a device that would transmit multiple channels to the television simultaneously so that I could use the dial to tune into them instead of changing channels digitally.

Would appreciate any advice, speculations, abuse, and wisdom that you guys/gals can give.
7 posts and 3 images submitted.
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- satellite dish that is...
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>>1150189

I have no idea if this is possible and no information to help you, but shit man, that's an interesting idea.

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What are your guys take on desklamps?
Personally I think there's a lot that look nice, but as for the actual lighting I feel like i'm in a fucking interrogation. I'm trying to find a table lamp that will fit on my desk just so I can get a more relaxed work environment.
I'm just curious, am I the only one who feels this way?
27 posts and 8 images submitted.
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>crickets
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>>1149967
>complaining about lack of attention on a slow board
You should lurk a bit before posting, this isn't >>>/pol/ or >>>/b/
As for lamps, I frankly don't care, so long as it's got a gooseneck. Ikea's Jansjo lamps are amazing once the led is switched over to neutral white/cool white. Pic related, although for whatever reason right looks far more blue than it really is, and left looks far less piss colored than it really is.
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>>1149967
Banker's lamp, warm light. Personal fav.

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