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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 180. page

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I dont know if this is the right board but I need some home security cameras. I think a scrap guy moved in behind me and I need to keep track of my home and the house next door(its vacant know). So what camera are you guys using. I'm think either nest or a samsung model. Please help! I've been putting this off but I want to do some traveling so I need to fix this. Thanks.
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>>1158488
Samsung is shit, always hated installing them. I've installed a couple of Swann systems in the last year and they seem to work well, although they aren't top of the line.
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>>1158488
The brand is less important than capabilities. Make sure you get at least a 2-megapixel camera. Any smaller and it will be difficult to make out what is going on unless it is right in front of the thing. One of our clients went cheap and had $15k of tools stolen out of their business and the camera resolution was too low to make out the license plate of the truck that drove off with their stuff.

IR or night vision is nice but a decent motion activated security light does the same thing and is more useful in general.

Make sure your recording device has plenty of storage, is easy to use (friend video export format, secure remote access, etc) and, most importantly, is reliable. One of our clients has an old Toshiba Surveillix they refuse to replace and it crashes at least once a week and requires a manual reboot.
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If you plan on having these cameras connect to the internet in any way, make sure you get someone who knows what they're doing configure everything for you. IP cameras are some of the most insecure pieces of hardware there are, and unless you lock them down hard then one day you'll find your IP on Shodan and realize that weirdos have been watching your feed for months. Possibly even using them to find out when you're not home so they can rob you.

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So DIY, I come to you guys for some tips. I paid this shitty landscaping company to put in a French drain in my yard due to stagnant water under and above ground. They've been out 3 times to fix it and this final 3rd time they did it properly thanks to me being out here to make sure they did. We ended up having a dispute after they ended up losing money over this job due to their incompetence. As many of you may know we had a storm this past week down here in the South. It worked great for the most part. However, as you can see from the picture there are still some areas where the water doesn't seem to seep into the ground thus the drain. I've already shelled out money for this drain and can't afford to shell out too much more at all due to other projects. Can't contact that company again and quite honestly I rather not let them fuck it up anymore. So my question is, what can I do to improve this? I live in a strict HOA neighborhood so plants are not an option. I'm buying seed and putting it down as soon as I can to see it will help a little.

Tldr: Tips to improve French drain after shitty company fucked up 2 times. Not much money to shell out.
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I have a sewing machine and lots of old levi jeans. How do tailor a pair of jeans specifically for my body? I also like the reconstructed look these vetements jeans have. Will post some more images so you get when I mean.
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Once I get my major service (timing belt, water pump, spark plugs etc) done I am going to finally try and learn to start servicing my car myself.

I drive a 2004 wrx, just bought the Haynes manual, don't really know shit about cars on a mechanical level.

how badly can i fuck things up permanently and which tasks should I focus on?

I'll probably still pay to get brake pads and shit done since i don't have jack stands and stuff.

Anything else I should add for the mechanic to do during the major service to give me a clean as possible slate to work off?
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>>1158006
>i don't have jack stands and stuff.
forget it then
#1 job is changing the oil. the most important small service you can do to keep your engine healthy. unless you have ramps or a pit you will need a jack and stands.
#1 job is changing oil. find out the interval and what oil grade to use depends on temperature outside. change the oil filter too of course.
shit like air filter/cabin filter is important but i woudn't class it as servicing because its as simple as changing a wiper blade.

anything you do to your car badly can fuck it up.
change the oil, put in too much? main seal blows under pressure. not enough? engine explodes. don't tighten up sump plug properly or forget compression washer? oil leaks and engine explodes. break a spark plug and a bit falls in the engine? engine smashed / cat converter gets a hole torn through == you fail emissions.
it goes on and on. bits in cars aren't there for fun (well new cars they are i guess) they are required for the car to work, and when you are going 100 in two ton of steel you want things to work properly otherwise you die.

but don't let me put you off its very rewarding, just think it through and talk to yourself as you do it and make sure you don't fuck it up.

either you want to do it to learn and you will and thats great or you will realise how much tools cost and its probably just as costly to get it done by a garage. but that's boring.

read the manual, parts will be 1) do this 2) do that 3) somehow this has happened but you don't know what the fuck they are talking about 4) suddenly magic 5)fuck you.
find some forums, people will post guides to major services you can pick up some tips even if its a different thing to what you are doing.

e.g. put hockey pucks between your chassis and jack stands so as not to scratch the rust protection.
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Just watch youtube videos over and over for certain jobs you want to do until you're confident in doing it. You'll be fine
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>>1158006

jack stands are $20
a jack is like $60
kill yourself for not doing the major service yourself

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Hey /diy/, So I want to make a Long board as im Merica' Fat and cant find a board in my local area that holds my wieght (Boards around here are rated 220 max while im around the 290+ mark, I know Merica' Fat). So i figured i'd make my own board as my girlfriend wants to get into long boarding around our lake front.
So ive done some reaserch and i've noticed that the boards that people build themselves tend to be solid board design or birch ply wood layered on itself. But none of the videos ive watched have been made by a fat ass like myself. So im inclined to belive im gonig to need a solid board construction and maybe i can go to birch poly construction later down the road. Im going to try and start this project this weekend and im curious on your guys' ideas or takes on the situation.
I want to take two different types of wood and make a design like pick related. Though im unsure what wood to use for the best strength. Im thinking oak for one even though it has such a wide grain structure, and the second one im at a loss. I plan on biscuting the boards together to get a stonger bond than just edge glueing them together, it prolly would just fall apart quickly if i didnt.

Ive been on the board a while i know the rules.
Supplies:-Table saw, bandsaw, jig saw(If needed but not preffered), palm sander, Small selection of hand chisels, Hand drill w. bits. And as well as a biscut Jointer i plan on picking up tomorow.

Cost; 100? not including the biscut jointer as i need one anyway. i think thats a fair price? So what do you gusy think. Any suggestions or ideas you fellows can help me out with?
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>>1157424
Before i write a lengthy reply. I'm not sure if this is another shit troll attempt. So take a picture of your hand. With a piece of paper next to it. That says "longboard 44788"

I'd confirm the trucks and wheels can also handle the weight. Do you have access to wood working tools, a bandsaw, and hand belt sander id say are needed for this kind of project. More after the anti troll proof.
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If the board is for your girlfriend why don't you just buy a normal one
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>>1157434
I'm real.

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I'm making a giant swing and I am wondering whether clamps or hand-swaged sleeves are safer, unfortunately I can't get them machine crimped. Or should I just use rope/chain?
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>>1157135
The knuckle type are stronger, and they are used on OSHA mandated safety cables that go around commercial buildings during construction.
They can hold up to 5000lbs of side impact force. If that doesn't hold your swing then you have more important things to worry about. Such as pic related.
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>>1157139
Are you referring to these?
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>>1157148
Yes, that's them.
Truthfully the saddle style like in OPs pic would work as well, they are just not as strong, but can still hold quite a bit.

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Hello /diy/
I wanted to know if it's possible to hook up my power strip or single outlet directly to a grounding rod, if yes how should I go on about it?
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>>1156492
is it possible sure.
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>>1156492
Just hook the grounding rod to any of the the ground wire/plug holes. You could also use the neutral wire, usually white, or the wider slot on an outlet. Both ground and neutral are the same thing, except when using GFCI breakers which need them hooked up correctly in order to detect a fault.
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>>1156505
>Both ground and neutral are the same thing
no they're not. you only want one ground-neutral bond at the first means of disconnect otherwise the ground becomes a current carrying conductor like the neutral.

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can one make compost without using any form of animal feces?
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>>1156339
No, since even the microorganisms in it will produce shit. Nature is full of shit.
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>>1156339
you can make compost out of most any organic material, such as grass clippings, leaves, wood, food scraps.
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>>1156339
>>1156369
Yes. Compost is just organic and rotting stuff.

>>1156344
Same goes for human shit.

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Building a display cabinet and need to figure out a way to wire 21 puck lights together so they all turn on at the same time as well as about 16.5 feet of LED stripping.

The puck lights are 2W each, and the LED strip is about 24W per 16.4 roll. So by my very shitty math skills, I'm going to need 42W for the LED Puck Lights & 24W for the LED strip, so 66W total.

What is the best way to wire this all together so I have a single cable to plug it all in? The problem is the lights weren't that cheap and have a connector at the end, that plug into a hub which can power 12 at a time with a 5A wall charger. I'd like them all to be set up on a dimmer, which I already have.
11 posts and 2 images submitted.
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You aren't going to be able to have just one wire. You will need 3 transformers it sounds like. You need to make sure that the leds are dimmable and the transformer you use will determine that.
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>>1158716
I was afraid of that. I figured I could do a set of 10 lights and one of 11 lights, then run the LEDs on another set... I could just join them all on a power strip and run that to the wall, I just wanted the least amount of cables and clutter as possible.
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Do these lights come with a built-in transformer in each puck or is it all 12V DC and a separate transformer and controller unit? 66W total isn't much; you can hook that up to a single suitable 12V DC transformer (go for a model that does at least 90W).

Whether or not you can dim them depends on the lights and the dimmer you have, but (correct me if I'm wrong here) you can dim any LED as long a you can supply a pulse-width modulated (PWM) power source. If your dimmer does that, then you can use that, provided the maximum power rating it has isn't exceeded (5.5A in your case).

If it is an AC dimmer, then your LEDs need extra electronics to handle dimming. LED bulbs or units that are powered by mains power sometimes have that.

Also, if you want to a minimal amount of wires for all those lights, you may need to use a larger gauge wire to accommodate voltage drop. Search for a voltage drop calculator website or use Ohm's law yourself.

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recommendations for work shoes and or insoles?

doesn't need to have steel toe or be "waterproof", comfort would be biggest factor

doing full time greenhouse work + commuting on foot...biking does cut down on that though
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>>1158348
>no steel toe
>not waterproof

Any sturdy shoes that you can buy will do. For greenhouse or garden work I tend to use rubber boots because I find them comfy.
If you walk long distance get some hiking shoes or military grade boots.

I bought myself a pair of HAIX military boots. They are really good for a long workday. At first a little heavy but really comfy and sturdy. But I have to warn you, the prices of them are insane, at least here in europe.
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>>1158353
I have large wader boots I could take if I needed to, but they would probably be really uncomfortable to walk very long in

I mostly just wear sneakers/athletic shoes; if they get wet they usually dry out with the heat, and or I'll use bags to at least keep my socks and feet dry

hiking boots was along the lines I was thinking...good foot "posture" and at least semi-waterproof, but I'd want to make sure they breathe well and don't keep my feet too hot
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Shoes for Crews.

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How do you make lockpicks?
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>>1158321
I made my set with a dremel and some blunt hacksaw blades. I used the tiny abrasive cutting disks that came with it.
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They might not be as neat as a brand new set, but they've served me well.
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>>1158321
just make a bump key
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpH_t0u5Ybg

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Is 18mm wood thick enough for a desk? And can it be stable using basic table legs with diameter of 3cm? If so, where should the legs be placed and how many of them?
Pic is what i figured out.
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>>1158299
18 mm is thick enough if you have a support structure like some beams along the edges

3 cm of solid steel will be strong enough, but for wood I would suggest go at least 50 mm square, and ideally 75+ mm square

The legs are usually in the corners
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>>1158305
can you suggest how should the beams be placed on an L shaped desk?
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>>1158299
Dunno. Planning the same. I am building mine to bold together in sections tho op. Gonna move soon.

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What are some good working mats (such as one in pic) ?
It's annoying when im sketching making a drawing my paper to move because of my shitty desk, needing paper for my compass to attach below my working paper, or whatever.
Taping doesn't really work for me, because I like to adjust it when working.
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>>1158214
a cutting mat like your pic

wtf is the point of this thread? are there no cutting mats where you are from? which planet are you on?
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>>1158214
i dont think you need something like on pic you posted, they are used more for cutting, but paper easily moves on them. search for some rubber mats maybe.
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>>1158214
Try a mouse pad turned upside down.

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I'm decently new to tinkering with electronics and I recently obtained a few old servers (minus the hard drives) from my workplace as they were upgrading their systems. They're all from around 2006-2007 so they're pretty useless to me as just computers. I've already decided to turn at least one of the power supplies into a benchtop regulated power supply, and maybe a laser from one of the DVD drives, but I'm having trouble figuring out what other interesting things to do with this stuff. Pic related, some of the fans I harversted.
7 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Lets see some cases there bub
/g/ goes nuts for old server cases
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>>1158185
you could build a solder fume extractor
with the large fan and some activated carbon filter
https://www.aliexpress.com/item//32792597855.html
an old 5V phone charger will work perfectly to keep
a server fan quiet and still produce enough airflow
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Cases could be good for making your own chassis or just sell them.

Motors in CD drives might be some fun.

Capacitors and diodes in the power supplies as well as the wire could be useful. Maybe keep the molex connectors.

Not much else inside those things worth keeping IMO.

Lets say I want to make some jewelry (Commercially), the idea would be very simple machine cut pieces that have a much more industrial feel to them, I would shot/vapour or polish the surface myself (I have a small Shotblasting shop)

My question is what are the economics of this like?

Say at first I want to test 5 or so designs with a few samples of each, in different materials (Copper, Brass, Steel, Silver), what does the process of getting them machined for me entail and cost?
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>>1158177
Wrong board. /biz/ is where you go for all the numbers bullshit. Especially if you don't want to actually tell us where you live. Prices vary considerably based on location. Be sure to include that info in your next post on biz.
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>>1158181

Sure I get what you are saying, but I am not looking for info on commercial viability, I am wondering if anyone here has had stuff made from any of the materials I listed milled before in small numbers, this seems like a more likely board for that than /biz/.

Also I am in London
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>>1158181
No. /biz is a shitty fucking containment board rand by mods running a shitcoin pump and dump scam. And any real /biz goes there and gets shrieked at. FAKE TIMESTAMP!! REEEEEE.

I have 4 fucking houses and 6 fucking cars. I was sitting on the hood of my 3 bros ford raptors and got shreiked at and called a fatass. This is 4chan. I expected it. But i ledt after post 150 and nothing but autism. Janitorbro is the only reason to go there if u wanna seek him out. Otherwise it is worse than be.

Fuck that place with a rusty sword

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