Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 143. page

>>1177276
shameless self bump

>>1177276
I thought the Right Wing Safety Squads shut those degenerate hell holes down?

>>1177519
Haven't you got a rusty nail to sit on, or something?

Been fighting with the drywallers. Stupid fucks couldn't place a single board properly if their life depended on it.

Mind you only low brow goofs join that trade, so I feel its a losing battle.

>>1176322
I can't tell what's going on here

>>1176335
giant screw feed hopper/mixer?

>>1174713
no

buy what you need when you need it, not but what you want when you want it

>>1174713
Do you have a project in mind that you need a dremel for?
>yes
Get a dremel cause they're fantastic at dremel-y type jobs
>no
Don't waste your money on something you don't need.

>>1174713
You'll always find a use for a Dremel, it's a must have that comes in very handy when you do need it

File: atf.jpg (57KB, 800x800px) Image search: [Google]

57KB, 800x800px

>>1174011

>>1174011
more like that.

>>1177831
You're gonna die soon, Anon.

You didnt use a mask? The flux probably going to fuck you up. Go to the hospital asap. Have them screen you for heavy metals.

no worries
it's just cancer

Sawzall

>>1176889
Grinder would be fine, circular saw might seem easier because of the sole plate but I never got the hang of using it upside down.
Reciprocating like a jigsaw or power saw will be a great and real fast way to make a huge mess of a hole.

Unless you want to spend the next month vacuuming figure out how you are going to do dust suppression, get a mate with a vacuum cleaner to suck up the dust.

Safety squints are of course as we all know all anyone needs for 99% of jobs BUT if you are cutting above your head (fan on the ceiling qualifies unless you are on a space station or Australia?) then wear fucking glasses because shit WILL fall in your eyes. CONSTANTLY. It's not about bits flying and hitting you at sorted and giving you a black eye it's more little bits floating down and after a few seconds you won't be able to keep them open which is a bad idea.

>>1176889
>What is the best way to cut a hole in plaster and lath?
Carefully. Very very carefully.

The danger is you'll get the lathe to vibrate and plaster will detatch from it, even outside your hole. It it's small bits, then no problem. But you can have a large section decide it prefers being on the floor, not the way.

That said, I cut a hole using a sawzall. But the section was between to studs so that kept the vibrations from spreading.

>>1174551
Yup. Big ol mean rooster. Thats what they are for.

>>1174556
Never considered that, makes sense. Thanks anon.

>>1174556
What's the average life expectation of such a rooster?

>>1171556
Draw dicks on those windows

we need a gable roof

>>375809610
That's a good idea desu

>>1169599
Just pay the guy.

>>1169600
fuck that bullshit. $600 for almost no work? he'll probably go and break some more shit in the process too. all the HVAC guys in the area are a crock of inexperienced shit.

>>1169599
I will say im an HVAC tech, but not one of those rip you off residential ones. most manufacturers will put the model/serial information inside the electrical/controls section of the unit due to the old problem of the nameplate weathering and being unreadable.

Next is if your system is 11 years old I would almost guess it's R-22 not R410a. granted around that time it was the transition years to 410a but most builder specials would be R-22. R22 was phased out and a 30lb jug costs on average $650-700. Filter driers are usually pretty tough and I have seen rusted to shit ones last 20 years. with a 11 year old system I wouldn't be too concerned with it. by the time it fails it will be worth the money to replace the whole system for something a whole lot more efficient. a 11 year old system and builder quality is probably around 10 seer or maybe 11 seer.

If your system is truly 4 to 5 tons then in reality I wouldn't expect more than 10lbs or refrigerant in the system. without the nameplate info the only way to tell is to weigh the recovered charge.

if you do the repair yourself please don't vent the charge or refrigerant. you will have to get a recovery machine and recovery cylinder to recover and weigh the refrigerant you pull out. then you will replace the filter dryer by brazing while purging with nitrogen. then pressure test the system, then pull a good vacuum and then charge with the proper refrigerant and weighed in.

at this point considering the age of the unit and the normal life cycle is considered to be 10-15 years. I would just clean the thing up throw a coat of bomb can paint or wrap it in cork tape and save your money for a replacement unit down the road.

>>1177594
Idk. Its probably some how millennials fault though..

Because it's going to be a warped piece of shit that you're supposed to cut to size with tools you purchase at the same hardware store.

>>1177600
Oh, cutting magically adds more wood?

>>1175832
Also i've found a dude thats done it with a cordless drill but that is noisy as fuck so i prefer something a bit quiet but you get the idea im trying to jew out the system so it needs to be simple and cheap and nice

>>1175832

Well, this being /diy/ and all...why don't YOU come up with an idea, or a plan, or a hack that would do this?

Then you can document it, and share it with the rest of the class...

you can use linear actuator motors taken from an old-person's hospital-type bed.

they're free: walk in to a retirement home with a work order, show it to lady at the desk, and proceed to ''repair'' some of the motors.

>>1174881
bump- reason i breathed it in for so long was because it was on a tile floor, and it was purple primer, had to clean up as much as possible before it started setting

>>1174881
well i guess how screwed you are depends on how much got on your purse

>>1174881
If you breathed in enough to be affected very adversely you'd feel it. Headaches, breathing problems, tension, etc.

It will probably affect your health in the long term a little but nothing too serious unless you were really breathing it in like fresh apple pie. Next time wear a respirator when working with these sorts of solvents.

>>1173965
they are called mains socket, that is where you plug in your things to get electric power from, e.g. television, hair drier etc.

My first thought is maybe an old antenna outlet? What country are you in, OP?

>>1173965
>slot screw on cover plate
gotta be murika
it should be a ungrounded 15amp~240V outlet.

>>1172965
The biggest expense is the battery array. It is one reason why you shouldn't skimp on cost. You want batteries that have the most charge cycles.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rechargeable_battery#Lifespan_and_cycle_stability

You can see in those stats which batteries are best for solar use. You'll need to juggle the cost of cheap batteries that last a short amount of time (5 years or less) and expensive batteries that last a long time (20 years or less). Most people who have a solar system with battery array can only tell you about the cheap batteries. The people with the expensive batteries normally have not had the batteries long enough to need to replace them and can't really comment on battery life since they've not reached the 20 year mark. In fact, most online charts for battery life are pretty spot on. So long as they are not abused they should last as long as advertised. The best info you can get is about manufacturing defects in certain lines of batteries, thus read a lot of reviews about the battery model number you are looking to buy.

As for solar panels, the efficiency charts are very good. It all really comes down to ease of installment really. That has to do with their frames. Remember, you'll need to clean them pretty much every month for optimal service.

Charge controllers and protection circuits are a whole different matter. Those you will need to research the reviews on them with great care. Their failure rates and quality vary a great deal. It is very easy to buy the wrong thing for your array as well as end up buying something that is defective in the long run. Do not skimp on cost and don't buy cheaply. Don't buy brand new models, only buy models that have a proven track record for many years. Exploding batteries aren't a good time at all.

>Live in Alabama in an area that the sun exposure is pretty decent.

Doesn't matter. People use solar at the poles with good effect. You'd just need a bit more solar space that is all.

I do solar shit for work. Don't fall for the solar edge meme.

File: DSC00040-L.jpg (101KB, 450x600px) Image search: [Google]

101KB, 450x600px

>>1172965
Solar works well for low-current devices like your wifi repeater and cameras.
>pic related

Solar sites I typically deal with have solar arrays to augment shitty utility service. Single-phase 120v feed from the bottom to the top of a mountain where the repeaters live typically yields ~90vac at the outlet... and it's usually not very reliable (works for a while, out for a few days kind of thing).

Solar helps augment the power loss, but the sites don't run 100% solar. Impossible to maintain that shit, even with just a router/controller/100w radio.

It has its place in remote applications, but for regular use, it just doesn't make sense. You only get so much w/m^2, at 100% efficiency that's all you're going to get (and typical solar is only ~25% efficient at best).

Panels need to be kept clean, and ideally aligned with & tracking the sun. Their output drops fast with anything other than full and direct sunlight.

Then there's the issue of storing that energy. If you've got 12h of sun, but you're running equipment 24h/day, you need twice the solar and storage capacity just to keep the lights on all day. Batteries aren't free, nor are they "clean" if that's what you're after.

Spend the money on a good charger (or inverter if you need AC power).
Remote monitoring and low-volt cutoffs are helpful. Start shedding loads when the batteries go low.

>>1172035
>looking for the battery
>realize theres a wire ziptied to metal that will get hot
>topkek